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23  WIST  MAIN  STRIET 

WEBSTIIi,N.Y.  USM 

{7}6)%77-4Va 


r 

O 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVl/ICfViH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  IMicroreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiquas 


Tschnieal  and  Bibliographic  Nctaa/Notaa  tachniquaa  at  bibiiographiquaa 


Tha  Inatituta  haa  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
original  copy  availabia  for  filming.  Paaturaa  of  thia 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographically  uniqua. 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagaa  in  tha 
raproduction.  or  which  may  significantly  changa 
tha  uauai  mathod  of  filming,  ara  ehackad  balow. 


□    Colourad  covara/ 
Couvartura  da  coulaur 


r~~|   Covara  damagad/ 


D 


Couvartura  andommagia 

Covara  raatorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Couvartura  raattiur4a  at/ou  pailiculAa 


r~n   Covar  titia  miaaing/ 


La  titra  da  couvartura  manqua 


0   Colourad  mapa/ 
Cartaa  g^ographiquaa  9n  coulaur 


D 


Colourad  Ink  (i.a.  othar  than  blua  or  black)/ 
Encra  da  coulaur  (i.a.  autra  qua  blaua  ou  noira) 


rn   Colourad  plataa  and/or  iiluatrationa/ 


D 
D 


D 


Ptanchaa  at/ou  iiluatrationa  an  coulaur 


Bound  with  othar  matarial/ 
Rali4  avac  d'autraa  documanta 


Tight  binding  may  cauaa  ahadowa  or  diatortion 
along  intarior  margin/ 

Laraliura  —rr^  paut  cauaar  da  I'ombra  ou  da  la 
diatoralon  la  long  da  la  marga  intiriaura 

Blank  laavaa  addad  during  raatoration  may 
appaar  within  tha  toxt.  Whanavar  poaaibia.  thasa 
hava  baan  omittad  from  filming/ 
II  aa  paut  qua  cartainaa  pagaa  blanchaa  ajoutiaa 
lora  d'una  raatauration  apparalaaam  dana  la  taxta. 
maia,  loraqua  cala  itait  poaaibia.  caa  pagaa  n'ont 
paa  «t«  fiimAaa. 


0 


Additional  commanta:/ 
Commantairaa  supplimantairas; 


Various  pigingi. 


L'Inatitut  a  microfilm*  la  maillaur  axamplaira 
qu'il  lui  a  AtA  poaaibia  da  sa  procurer.  Laa  ditails 
da  cat  axamplaira  qui  lont  paut-4tra  uniquas  du 
point  da  vua  bibliographiqua.  qui  pauvant  modifiar 
una  imaga  raproduita.  ou  qui  pauvant  axigar  una 
modification  dana  la  mAthoda  normala  da  filmaga 
aont  indiquia  d-daaaoua. 


r^  Colourad  pagaa/ 


Pagaa  da  coulaur 

Pagaa  damagad/ 
Pagaa  andommagiaa 

Pagaa  raatorad  and/oi 

Pagaa  raataurAaa  at/ou  palilculAaa 

Pagaa  diacolourad.  stainad  or  foxai 
Pagaa  dAcolorias,  tachatias  ou  piquAas 

Pagaa  datachad/ 
Pagaa  ditachias 

Showthroughy 
Tranaparanca 

Quality  of  prir 

QualltA  inAgala  da  i'imprassion 

Includaa  suppiamantary  matarii 
Comprand  du  matirial  suppl4mantaira 

Only  adition  availabia/ 
Saula  Mition  disponibia 


Tha 
tot 


□   Pagaa  damagad/ 
Pagaa 

r*~]   Pagaa  raatorad  and/or  laminatad/ 

0   Pagaa  diacolourad.  stainad  or  foxad/ 
Pagaa 

r~~|   Pagaa  datachad/ 

r^  Showthrough/ 

|~~|   Quality  of  print  variaa/ 

p~|   Includaa  suppiamantary  matarial/ 

rn   Only  adition  availabia/ 


Tha 
poa 
oft 
film 


Orif 

bag 

tha 

aior 

othi 

first 

sion 

ori 


Tha 
shal 
TINI 
whi( 

Map 

diffi 

antii 

bag 

right 

raqu 

mati 


D 


Pagaa  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  arrata 
slips,  tissuaa,  ate.  hava  baan  rafilmad  to 
ansura  tha  baat  possibia  imaga/ 
Laa  pagaa  totalamant  ou  partiailamant 
obscurcias  par  un  fauillat  d'arrata.  una  palura. 
ate.  ont  tti  filmias  A  nouvaau  da  fapon  A 
obtanir  la  maillaura  imaga  possibia. 


This  itam  is  fiimad  at  tha  reduction  ratio  ehackad  below/ 

Ce  document  eat  filmi  au  taux  da  riduction  indiqu*  ci-deasous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

28X 

30X 

7 

12X 


16X 


aox 


24X 


28X 


32X 


m  du 
nodifiar 
ir  una 
ilmag* 


IS 


The  copy  filmad  bmrm  hat  baan  raproducad  thanka 
to  tha  ganaroalty  of: 

Library  of  tha  Public 
Archivaa  of  Canada 


Tha  imagaa  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  baat  quality 
posaibia  conaidaring  tha  condition  and  iagibility 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  icaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  spacif icationa. 


Original  copiaa  in  printad  papar  covara  ara  fllmad 
baginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  anding  on 
tha  iaat  paga  with  a  printad  or  illuatratad  impraa- 
sion,  or  tha  back  covar  whan  approprlata.  All 
othar  original  copiaa  ara  fiimad  baginning  on  tha 
f  irat  paga  with  a  printad  or  Illuatratad  impraa- 
alon,  and  anding  on  tha  Iaat  paga  with  a  printad 
or  illuatratad  Impraaalon. 


Tha  iaat  racordad  f  rama  on  aach  microf  icha 
shall  contain  tha  symbol  — i^>  (moaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  tha  aymbol  y  (moaning  "END"), 
whichavar  applias. 


L'axamplaira  filmi  fut  raprodult  grioa  i  la 
ginAroalti  da: 

La  bibliothAqua  daa  Archivaa 
publiquas  du  Canada 

Laa  imagaa  auivantaa  ont  4ti  raproduitaa  avac  la 
plua  grand  aoin,  compta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattat*  da  l'axamplaira  f  ilm4,  at  an 
conformM  avac  laa  conditiona  du  contrat  da 
filmaga. 

Laa  axamplalraa  origlnaux  dont  la  couvartura  an 
paplar  aat  ImprimAa  aont  flimto  an  commandant 
par  la  pramlar  plat  at  an  tarmlnant  soit  par  la 
darnlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  ampralnta 
d'impraaaion  ou  d'iiiustratlon,  aoit  par  la  aacond 
plat,  salon  la  caa.  Tous  laa  autraa  axampiairas 
origlnaux  aont  fllmte  an  commandant  par  la 
prami4ra  paga  qui  comporta  una  ampralnta 
d'imprassion  ou  d'iiiustratlon  at  an  tarmlnant  par 
la  darnlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  talla 
ampralnta. 

Un  daa  symbolaa  auivanta  apparattra  sur  la 
darnlAra  imaga  da  chaqua  microficha,  salon  la 
caa:  la  aymbola  -^  signifia  "A  SUIVRE",  la 
symbols  ▼  signifia  "FIN". 


irrata 
to 


palura. 
n  A 


d 

32X 


■Maps,  plataa,  charta,  ate,  may  ba  fiimad  at 
diffarant  raduction  ratios.  Thoaa  too  iarga  to  ba 
antiraly  inciudad  in  ona  axpoaura  ara  fiimad 
baginning  in  tha  uppar  laft  hand  cornar,  laft  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  framas  aa 
raquirad.  Tha  following  diagrama  illustrata  tha 
method: 


1 

2 

3 

Laa  cartaa,  planchaa,  tableaux,  ate,  pauvant  Atra 
film4a  A  daa  taux  da  rMuctlon  diff Aranta. 
Loraqua  la  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atra 
raprodoit  en  un  seul  clichA,  ii  est  filmA  A  partir 
da  i'angle  aupAriaur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  an  baa,  an  prenant  la  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaira.  Lea  diagrammes  suivants 
illuatrant  la  mAthode. 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

Btj^'ii'     Cdiii^lete    Poettc|it"V^ 


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Cniiii)!beU>s  Complete  Po^tl«f  ' 
nnl'^^Works.     Illuetratcd  jftiih 
ste^l  eng;}»v|ng9   rihI  ,a  PprtrMi 
^      iOina...^^.*. .v^jbfeilii,  J  00 

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V   iyate'd  by  Edwwrd    CricbArtifl.     ;l 

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portrait  amL>2>>M^viogs.  16nno. 

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D.  APP 


APPLETOIS* 


-l! 


ILLXJSTR  A.TE13    • 


HAND-BOOK  OF  AMERICAN  TRAVEL 


%>:      q 


NEW  YORK: 

D.  APPLETON  &  00.,    846  «;   848  BROADWAY. 

LONDON:  TBttBNBB  *  00. 

1867. 


a^T    ■ 


NOTIOE. 


No  ezpenie  or  labor  will  be  spared  to  make  the  Hand-Book  of  AnMr* 
ican  Trarel  attraotiye,  wmprtHMuAre^  oonoiae,  thorough,  and  eyerj  waj 
rouble. 

The  next  Annual  Edition  will  be  pnbliahed  in  Ifaj,  1868,  and  any 
information  in  regard  to  errors  and  omiiriona,  which  thoee  who  nee  the 
work  may  detect,  or  any  ftots  of  interest  and  value-iMfftioalarly  in 
reqpeot  to  new  routes  and  aocommodationa— will  be  grateftiDy  reodTed 
and  comddered.  Such  cofimnnioationa  should  be  addreised  to  the  Author, 
care  of  the  PabUahers. 


For  OowTEsn,  GimBAL  Ibtdix,  Lisr  or  Maps,  Lurr  of  Iixus' 
iBATioHS,  etc.,  see  the  end  of  the  Yolune. 


APPIiBTONS' 

ILLUSTRATED  RAILWAY  AND  STEAM  MYI6ATI0N 

GUIDE, 

Oontaiidng  Seyenty  Haps,  and  the  latest  IHme  Tables,  Corrected  to  Date.  Pab- 
lidied  Month]  J,  under  the  sapervfidon  of  the  Bailroad  Companies.  One  Yohune, 
288  pages.    Price,  Twenty-flve  Cents.    Subscription  price.  Three  IHdlars  per 


M'/ 


I .  I 


▲  PPLIT0N8' 


r.;-i 


ILLUSTRATED  HAND-BOOK 


OP 


AMERICAN   TRAVEL: 

▲    FULL    AMD    BILIABLl 

GUIDE 

ST  RAILWAY,  STEAMBOAT,  AND  8TAQB, 


LAXM,  acm- 


lo  mf  orriM,  vowm,  wawwahj,  BATn.B-vnn.iNi,  MonrrAnn,  bitbbb, 
Dia  abb  ranxo  OBcnmoi,  WATBanre  PbAOBi,  wmiuB  bmobm,  abb 

■OBBBi  ABB  OBIBOn  OB  IMPOBTABOB  ABD  WTBBWr  IB 


THE  UKITED  STATES  AKD  THE  BBITISH  PBOYIICES. 


n 


BT 


T.  ADDISON  EICHARDB. 


WITB  OABBBOI.  BAH  OB  ALL  PABIB  OV  TBB  OOUMTBT,  AMD  nOTUBlS  OB  PAXOm  PLAOBI 
ABD  S0BIIB8,  PBOV  OBICOBAL  DBAWIMCM  BT  THB  AUTHOB  ABD  OTHBB  ABTUTB. 

BB4BATBD  ABD  BLBOnonPBD  BT  WaiTBBX  ABD  JOOBLnr. 


"When  ihoQ  hiqpljr  aeest 
Some  nure,  noto-worfhjr  ol^eet  In  thj  tnTda, 
MdM  DM  pwtalnr  of  thy  lMip^nefla."-iiSAalm)Mr«i 


'l< 


NBW  YORK: 
D.  APPLETON  ft  00.,  846  h  848  BROADWAY. 

LONDON:  TBttBNBS  4  OO. 
1867. 


\,\^ 


JbrauMD  aooordlag  to  Aet  of  Ocoignas,  la  fh«  year  IttT,  by 

D.  APPLBTON  as  CO^ 

la  the  Olttk'k  Offloe  of  the  Diatriet  Conrt  of  the  United  Btirtee  for  the 
Sontheq^  Disttlot  of  New  York.    , 


* 


"i^/d^lo 


1 1  ■•^' 


TO  THE  TRAVELLER: 

SOME  PABTma  WOBDS  OF  EXPLANATION  AND  ADVICE. 


-♦♦•- 


In  a  jonmey  over  so  vast  a  oonntry  as  tlie  TTidted  Statei^ 
oooupying  nearly  half  a  Continent,  and  measuring  its  length  and 
breadth  by  thousands,  and  its  routes  of  travel  by  tens  of  thousands 
of  miles,  one  inay  very  readily  be  pardoned  if  he  sometimes  stumbles 
by  the  way.  May  we  not  beg  the  benefit  of  this  consideration,  i^ 
in  our  present  laborious  itirUraire,  we  have  occasionally  chanced, 
despite  all  our  watdifhlness,  to  only  half  look  at  points  of  interest 
or  to  overlook  them  altogether ;  ot  i£,  amidst  the  intricate  ritioula- 
tion  of  the  roads,  we  may  have  momently  lost  our  way  ?  We  hope, 
however,  that  we  have  not  been  thus  unlucky  in  any  considerable 
degree,  for  we  have  made  very  honest  effort  to  guide  our  traveller 
truly  and  surely ;  to  show  him — ^hastily,  to  be  sure,  as  needs  must 
be,  yet  intelligently — ^the  past  and  the  present,  the  physique  and 
the  morale,  of  the  great  country  through  which  we  have  led  him ; 
its  differing  peoples  and  places,  from  the  mountains  to  the  prairies 
—■from  the  cities  and  palaces  of  the  East  to  the  wildernesses  and 
wigwams  of  the  West. 

Though  we  have  thufi  done  our  best  for  the  present,  we  hope  to 
do  still  better  hereafter,  as  we  revise  and  extend  our  volume  year 
after  year,  with  the  benefit  of  enlarged  personal  observation  and  of 
the  good  counsels  of  others :  for  we  trust  that  those  who  follow 
our  guidance  will  do  us  the  kindness  to  advise  us  of  any  and  all 
errors  and  omissions  they  may  discover  in  our  pages.  To  assist 
them  in  rendering  us  this  generous  service,  we  have  placed  some 
blank  leaves  for  memoranda,  at  the  end  of  our  book. 


w^,  • 


6  JSTBGDUOnOSt, 

In  our  list  of  illiistrations,  we  have  the  good  fortune  to  indade 
valuable  contributions  from  the  portfolios  of  our  gifted  brother- 
artists,  Mr.  James  H.  Cafferty,  Mr.  F.  E.  Chnrch,  Mr.  Jervis 
McEntee,  Mr.  A.  D.  Shattuck,  Mr.  S.  S.  David,  Mr.  Charles  Lan- 
man,  Mr.  T.  A.  Ayres,  and  others.  In  the  literary  department, 
we  are  much  indebted  to  Mr.  Ayres,  for  the  oarefid  acooont  of 
California ;  to  Mr.  T.  D.  Lowther,  for  the  very  pleasant  mention 
of  St.  Angustine ;  and  to  William  Presoott  Smith,  for  the  aoSomit 
of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Bailroad. 


THE  FLAN  OF  THIS  BOOK. 

We  have  thought  it  best  to  follow  the  fiimiliar  geographical 
order  of  the  various  divisions  of  the  country,  and  thus  to  begin 
at  Canada  on  the  extreme  north-east;  and,  continuing  along  the 
shores  of  the  Atlantic  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  end  upon  the 
[pacific,  westward.  With  rf^re  exceptions,  we  have,  instead  of' 
selecting  a  particular  route  and  seeing  all  it  offers  of  attraction, 
jumped  at  once  to  our  especial  destination,  and  then  intimated  the 
way  by  which  it  is  reached.  Thus,  if  the  traveller  happens  to  be 
in  New  York  or  Boston,  and  desires  to  go  to  New  Orleans,  he 
will,  by  turning  to  **  New  Orleans,"  find  the  routes  thither.  The 
chief  cities  are  taken  as  starting  points  for  all  other  and  lesser 
places  in  their  neighborhood.  It  has  not,  of  course,  been  possible 
to  mention  every  village  or  town  in  the  Union,  in  ^he  narrow 
limits  of  a  po<^et  volume,  like  this. 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

The  foreign  tourist  will  soon  observe,  to  his  satisfaction,  (and 
the  citizen  might  remember  it  oftener,  with  thanks  to  his  stars,) 
the  great  convenience  of  the  total  absen^  in  the  United  States^* 
of  aU  annoying  demands  for  passports — of  scowling  fortifications 
and  draw-bridges,  of  jealous  gates,  closed  at  a  fixed  hour  of  the 
evening  and  not  to  be  reopened  before  another  fixed  hour  of  the 
morning;  of  custom-houses  between  the  several  States,  and  of  all 
rummaging  of  baggage  by  gens  d'armes  for  the  octroi ;  and  yet 
nevertheless,  of  as  perfect  a  feeling  of  security,  everywhere,  as  in 
the  most  vigilantly  poHced  kingdoms  of  Europe. 


UiTHODVOnOVt  7 

He  may  or  may  not  like  the  table  d'hdte  system  of  oar  hotels 
— ^the  miiform  fare  and  the  miyarying  price ;  that,  excepting  in 
the  few  metropolitan  cities,  where  the  habits  of  all  nations  obtain, 
we  mnat  submit  to. 

From  the  social  eqnality  every  where  and  without  exception, 
he  will  not  sufiEer,  however  high  his  rank  at  home ;  and  if  it  be 
not  the  highest,  he  will  surely  gain  in  consideration.  To  win 
attention  and  care,  both  the  lofty  and  the  lowly  have,  and  have 
only,  to  dispense  good  will  and  kind  manners  as  they  pass  along. 

HONET. 

Gold  and  silver,  it  should  be  remembered,  are  always  and 
every  where  current,  while  bank-notes,  and  espedaUy  of  distant 
StAtes,  very  often  are  not.  Change,  too,  will  save  trouble ;  espe- 
cially half-dollars,  generally  the  &re  of  omnibuses  and  hacks,  and 
invariably  the  price  of  meals.  Twenty-five  cent  pieces,  too,  are 
useful,  as  fees  for  little  services  by  the  way.  In  travelling  through, 
the  settled  districts  by  railways  and  steamboats,  and  at  the  best 
hotels,  the  ddly  expenses  should  be  estimated  at  not  less  than 
five  or  fax  dollars  per  day  for  each  person. 


BAGGAGE. 

As  little  bi^gage  as  possible  is  always  a  good  rule,  though  a 
very  liberal  supply  is  permitted  on  the  railways  and  almost  any 
quantity  on  the  steambbate .  On  the  stages,  the  prescribed  limit  of 
fidxty  or  eighty  pounds  cannot  be  exceeded  without  extra  charge. 

Th^  reguhtr  carriages  of  his  hotel  will  convey  the  traveller 
securely  and  in  season,  to  the  railway  station  or  the  steamboat 
landing,  where  his  first  care  must  be  to  deposit  hiti  trunks  in  the 
keeping  of  the  baggage-master,  and  receive  a  check  for  each  one — 
corresponding  marks  will  be  attached  to  the  baggage,  and  it  will 
be  delivered  at  the  end  of  the  route  only  to  the  holder  of  the 
checks.  It  is  best  to  get  baggage  checked  for  the  entire  journey,, 
or  for  the  longest  possible  stage  thereof  and  thus  save  one*s  self 
the  trouble  of  looking  out  for  it  more  frequently  than  is  necessary. 

Before  arriving  at  his  destination,  the  traveller  will,  on  the 
principal  routes,  receive  a  call  firom  an  express  agent,  to  whom  he 


8 


IMTBODlTCfnOir* 


may  safdy  rengn  his  check  and  his  address,  confident  that  his 
ha^gage  will  lie  duly  delivered  and  at  the  fixed  tariff  of  twenty* 
five  cents  for  each  piece  or  trunk.  On  arriving  at  the  end  of  lids 
joomey,  he  should  put  himself  in  one  of  the  carriages  marked  as 
in  the  particular  service  of  the  hotel  to  which  he  is  going.  If  he 
employs  other  vehicles,  it  will  be  well  to  learn  the  &re  beforehand, 
particularly  in  the  city  of  New  York,  where  hackmen  pay  but 
little  attention  when  they  can  help  it,  to  the  law  in  the  case. 

TICKETS. 

Tickets  on  the  railways  should  be  purchased  at  the  ofilce  before 
starting,  otherwise  a  small  additional  charge  Will  be  made.  If  a 
long  journey  over  various  roads  is  intended,  it  is  cheaper  and 
more  convenient  to  buy  a  through  ticket  to  the  end  of  the  route, 
or  for  as  long  a  distance  as  possible.  On  the  steamboats,  the 
tickets  for  passage  and  for  meals  wiU  be  purchased  at  leisure,  after 
starting,  at  the  captain's  office; 

HOTELS.  * 

The  hotels  of  the  United  States  are  fiunous  all  the  world 
over,  for  their  extent,  convenience,  comfort  and  elegance.  They 
are  often  truly  palatial  in  their  sumptuousness,  with  means  and 
appliances  for  the  prompt  gratification  of  every  want  and  whim. 
The  universal  pribe  of  board,  from  one  end  of  the  country  to  the 
other,  is  $2  60  or  $2  00  per  day  at  the  most  &shionabIe,  and 
indeed  at  fdl  the  principal  houses.  Private  parlors  and  extra 
rooms  involve  an  additional  charge,  according  to  their  position. 
Wines  are  always  extra  and  always  dear  enough.  ^  ^ 

WAITERS  OB  SERYANTS. 
It  is  not  the  general  custom  in  America,  as  in  Europe,  to  fee 
waiters  at  the  hotels,  though  it  may  very  properly  be  done  for 
especial  personal  service.  It  is  often  done  by  those  who  like  hot 
dinners  better  than  c  jld,  or  who  may  have  a  fimcy  for  some  rare 
dish  when  it  unluckily  happens  to  be  "  all  out."  ^ 

COSTUME.  ♦ 

At  the  watering  places,  the  same  resources  of  toilette  are 


-.  f# 


nra!BoiKran0Br.  f 

needed  an  In  the  iAty  taihn ;  hut  thongh  yon  be  thns  proyided, 
do  not  be  nnproYided  witii  a  tnyelling  snit  equal  to  mde  usage. 
If  the  color  be  a  gray  or  a  brown,  so  mnch  the  better  in  the  dust 
of  railway  and  stage  routes.  Don  a  felt  hat,-*-it  does  not  crush 
itself  or  your  head  in  oar  or  carriage,  or  Uow  oyerboard  on 
steamboats.  Leave  thin  boots  (this  especially  to  the  ladies)  at 
home,  imd  be  well,  and  comfortably,  and  safely  shod,  in  stoui  oa^ 
ak^.  It  is  a  pity  to  be  kept  in  doors  by  the  fear  of  spofling  one's 
gfdters  or  wetting  one's  feet,  when  the  meadows  and  hills  and 
brooks  are  waiting  to  be  explored.  In  mountain  tramps,  a  gene* 
rous  sized  flask,  filled  with  most  excellent  brandy,  may  be  swung 
over  the  shoulder  with  very  pctnresque  effect. 

Kow  that  we  have  told  our  traveller  how  to  go,  it  only  remains 
to  us,  before  starting,  to  add  a  word  of  suggestion  as  to 


WHEBE  TO  QO. 

If  you  are  in  New  York,  with  one  or  two  or  three,  or  more 
summer  days  to  spare,  run  up  to  one  or  other  of  the  many 
delightfhl  places  on  the  Hudson  River, — ^to  West  Point,  or  New- 
burgh,  for  example ;  or  to  the  CatskiU  Mountains ;  or  run  down 
to  Rockaway,  or  Long  Branch,  or  any  of  the  many  healthful  and 
inviting  resorts  along  the  coast  of  Long  Island  and  New  Jersey. 

If  a  week  is  at  your  command,  go  to  Lake  George,  or  to 
Trenton  Falls,  or  Niagara ;  explore  the  varied  route  of  the  Erie 
Railway,  or  seek  some  one  of  the  innumerable  Springs  of  the 
State. 

If  a  fortnight  or  a  month  can  be  spared,  make  a  trip  to  Canada. 
<  >  #  See  Montreal  and  the  Ottawa  River,  then  go  to  Quebec  and  the 

Saguenay,  returning  through  Maine ;  or  from  Montreal  go  up  the 
St.  Lawrence  to  Toronto,  and  thence  to  the  great  Lakes;  or 
spend  a  part  or  all  of  your  time  among  the  wonderful  White  Hills 
of  New  Hampshire. 

If  the  whole  summer  is  waitmg  to  be  dic^sed  of,  visit  the 
countless  watering-places  in  the  mountain  lands  of  Western  Vir- 
ginia; or  see  the  landscape  beauties  of  the  Blue  Ridge  regions  of 
**      the  Carolinas  and  Georgia ;  or  astonish  yourself  with  a  glimpse 
of  the  western  dties  and  of  the  Mammoth  Cave. 
1* 


10 


jufiXMoiyuoTioir. 


In  winter  Idsiire,  go  to  Charleston,  and  Sayanni^  and  New 
Orleans,  Florida  i  and  Cuba,  and  find  the  eommer  airs  again 
which  70a  have  lost  in  higher  latitudes. 

There  is  no  lack  of  in^ting  resorts  for  a  daj,  or  week,  or 
month,  or  for  ever.  Look  in  this  respect  at  onr  Skeleton  Tonrs, 
and  at  the  detailed  descriptions  and  routes  in  the  pages  which 
follow.  Go  somewhere,  if  you  can,  all  of  you,  and  whereyer  and 
whenever  you  go,  God  speed  yon  on  your  way  and  send  you  duly 
back  wiser,  and  better,  and  healthier,  and  hap^ner  men  and 
women. 


) 


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UxiTiunT,  Niw  ToBK,  Majf  l«l,  1867. 


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AMEKLOAN  FISHING  AND  FIELD  SPOETS. 


Wi  eaanot  well  tarn  a  fhonght  to  the  bouiclless  resonrees  in'  forest  imd  flood, 
which  the  great  and  varied  territory  of  the  United  States  presents  for  every  desorip-^ 
tion  of  field  sport,  without  a  sigh  of  regret  that  th^  should  be  so  little  esteemed  and 
employed  by  the  people.  Nowhere  are  the  wildernesses  and  the  woods  so  popnlooa 
with  the  noblest  ottjeots  of  the  chase,  the  bison,  the  bear  and  the  deer  of  ereiy  species, 
whfle  the  waters  of  the  numberiess  inlets  and  estaaries  of  the  great  bays  of  oar  Atlaa- 
tio  coast,  perhaps  sorpass  those  of  any  other  coontiy  in  the  world  in  their  immense 
■applies  of  all  kinds  of  wUd  fowl. 

Opportonity  waits  the  will  and  pleasnre  alike  of  the  hardiest  and  bddesk  fofest  att 
rentorer,  and  of  the  daintest  dilettante  of  the  mossy  brook-side.  AU  may  find  abnn> 
dant  occupation  for  their  differing  tastes,  and  with  no  jealous  or  unreasonable  legal 
let  or  hinderanoe  to  the  full  indulgence  thereof,  as  in  some  other  less  free  andfkrored 
lands.  ^^ 

The  health,  moral  no  less  than  physical,  which  is  ever  to  be  jRiered  in  the  exer^ 
else  and  pleasures  of  the  chase,  conunends  it,  especially,  to  a  people  disposed,  like 
ours,  to  orer-work  and  over-toU;  and  if  the'soholar  could  be  persuaded,  sometimes, 
to  dose  his  wearying  books,  the  merchant  to  leare  his  dull  desk,  and  the  artisan  his 
unceasing  toil  for  a  generous  indulgence  in  out-of-door  relaxation,  who  can  tell  how 
much  the  enjoyment  of  life  might  be  increased— how  greatW  life  itself  might  be  pro< 
longedf  V 

For  the  angler  there  is  opportunity  every  where  in  the  moantaiii  brooks  and  wood- 
land streams,  and  in  the  innumerable  rivers  and  lakes  of  the  land. 

Sea  trout  and  salmon,  of  the  finest  size  and  quality,  abound  in  Maine,  east  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Kennebec.  In  Nova  Scotia,  New  Brunswick  and  Canada,  too,  they  are 
most  plentifiiL  The  salmon,  especially,  may  be  readily  taken  in  the  waters  of  the  St. 
John's  river,  in  the  St.  Lawrence,  as  far  up  as  the  **  Thousand  Islands,"  and  down  al- 
most to  the  sea;  in  the  Ghaudiere,  th^  St.  Maurice,  the  Jacques  Cartier  and  the  Ot- 
tawa. From  Lake  Ontario,  this  fine  fish  makes  its  way  through  the  Oswego  river 
into  Lake  Cayuga,  and  it  is  said  enters  Seneca  Lake  also.  In  these  last-mentioned 
waters  they  are  usually  taken  with  the  net,  and  very  rarely,  if  ever,  by  the  fly. 

Smaller  trout  of  exquisite  flavor  are  abundant  in  all  the  mountain  streams  of  the 
Northern  and  the  Middle  States,  as  far  southward  as  Virginia.  They  swarm,  also,  in 
Lake  Superior,  where  the  salmon,  too,  is  to  be  found.  Long  Island  is  famous  for  its 
troat;  and  so,  also,  is  the  wUdemess  of  northern  New  York— all  that  beautifiil  moun- 
tain and  lake  region  lying  west  of  Champlain.    The  brook  or  spotted  trout  here^  are 


'•       -5  i 


12 


VISHINO  AKD  WIELD  SPOBIB. 


olUn  takeo  up  to  two  tad  ft-half  or  three  pooade,  and  wnnetiinee  op  to  liz,  tboof^  • 
tiro-ponnder  ia  luaally  eiteemed  »  god-iend,  m  the  arerage  liie  of  thia  flah  ia  mneh 
leaa  in  Amerlean  than  in  Eoropean  watera. 

The  black  baaa  ia  plentiftd  in  the  lakea,  and  the  pike,  the  piokerd,  the  maakalonga 
•ad  the  atriped  baaa,  beaidea  many  leaaer  kind. 

The  moat  abundant  fiudlitiea  for  wild-fowl  ahooting  may  be  found  at  all  pointa  of 
the  long  reach  of  the  Atlantic  coaat-4n  the  noble  baya  and  the  rirera— inleta  from  Maine 
to  Florida.  At  aome  one  or  other  period  of  the  year,  each  apeoiea  of  wader,  from  the 
atately  awaa  to  the  little  aand-piper,  take  up  their  abode  in  erery  pointjtf  thia  re- 
gioa— now  flocking  to  the  land-looked  baya  and  lagunea  of  Long  laland  4P  ^^^  J«r- 
aey ;  now  about  the  eatnariea  of  the  great  Gheaapeake,  and  later  atill,  in  the  Albemarie 
and  the  Pamlico  P'^nd,  off  Carolina.  See  <*Long  laland"  in  thia  reapect,  and  the 
"  Gheaapeake  Bay  "  in  regard  to  the  ikmoua  canTaa-baok. 

Bren  to  catalogue  the  eligible  apota  for  every  kind  of  upland  ahooting  in  a  country 
oorered  with  foreata  and  wooda,  and  neceaaarily  filled  with  birda  and  other  game 
of  all  Unda,  would  demand  a  volume.  The  aportaman  may  chooae  for  himaelf  where 
to  kill  the  prairie  hen,  any  where  flvm  Tezaa  up,  through  all  the  great  weatern 
plaina;  the  ruffed  grouae,in  New  Enj^and  where  it  ia  called  partridge,  and  in  Penn- 
i^lvania,  where  it  ia  known  aa  the  pheaaant;  or  the  Canada  grouae  in  upper  New 
Yoik  and  northward.  The  quail  may  be  found  abundantly  from  Maaaachnaetta  to 
Ohio  and  Kentucky*  and  even  to  Tezaa.  *  The  woodcock  ia  plentiM  in  all  the  Eaatern 
and  Middle  Statea,  and  in  winter  not  leaa  ao  in  the  South.  Ducka,  too,  of  many  kinda^ 
and  teal  and  rail  will  every  where  repay  the  aeaich  of  the  hunter. 

Of  the  nobler  game  of  tiie  foreat-wilda,  the  rude  biaon,  the  lordly  dk  and  mooae, 
the  deer,  and  even  of  the  bear  and  the  panther,  not  only  the  great  Weatern  wil- 
doneaaea,  but  the  mountain  glena  of  the  northern  Statea,  and  the  juni^ea  of  the  South, 
offer  ample  aupj^j^a.  The  deer,  more  eeqpecially,  ia  yet  to  be  found  in  eveiy  part  of 
the  United  State^ud  abundantly  in  the  wooda  of  Maine  and  the  mountain  region  of 
all  New  England  and  of  northern  New  York.  See  chaptera  on  the  Adirondack  and 
the  Saranao  lake  region.  Hereabouta  thiabeantifyd  animal  ia  moat  often  killed  by 
oneorotherofthe  twoqueationablemodea,  called  driving  and  atill  hunting;  but 
aontii  of  the  Potomac,  in  Yirginia,  the  Oarolinaa,  Miaaiaaippi  and  Louiaiana,  he  ia 
yet  fidlowed  in  the  good  old  brave  manly  chaae,  with  all  the  inspiriting  and  Minobling 
•d}nncta  of  mounted  cavalier,  daring  flood  and  fell  at  the  call  of  the  bug^e  note  and 
the  atirring  halloo. 

The  biaon  and  the  dkmuat  be  fliQowed  to  the  Far  Weat,  beyond  tho  Miaaiaaippi, 
whitiier  they  have  been  driven  long  ainee,  before  the  inexorable  courae  of  empire. 
How  much  longer  th^  may  be  found  even  there,  who  can  teU,  while  Civiliaation 
is  stalking,  aa  it  ia,  over  the  great  deaerta  in  ita  annihilating  aeven-leagne  boota. 

"Let  fhe  man  who's  dlatarbed  bv  mlofortaBe  and  eare, 
Away  to  the  woodlandB  and  vaUeys  repair. 

T«]l7>ho,ete. 

Let  him  hear  but  the  notes  of  the  sweet  swelling  horn, 
"With  the  hounds  in  Itall  cry,  and  his  tronbles  are  gone. 

Tallv-ho,  ete." 

Ou>  Bono 


■f 


i 


^ 


SKELETON  TOURS 
From  N«v  York  to  Variou  Parta  of  tli*  Ubltad  8tetM  and  th* 


WITH  AN  APPBOXIMATB  STATEMENT  OF  THE  TIME  BEQUIBED  TO  TBAYEL 

VBOM  PLACE  TO  PLACE,  AND  OF  THE  DUBATION  OF  THE  HALTS 

TO  BE  MADE  AT  THE  MOST  BEMABKABLE  SPOTS: 

8HJ>e$eriptionqf  JtoutM,B'oUUfIiamand8omminth4Folloi^^ 


A  TOUB  OF  SIX  DATS, 
Viiiting  Wtd  JPaM,  Nmhtrgh,  and  tht  OtOMUt. 

MoMDAT.  New  Tort:  to  West  Point  (62  miles),  bj  morning  steambost  up  the  Hndson 
River,  through  the  Highlands,  or  by  an  eudj  train  on  the  Hudson  Rirer  Bailwaj, 
stopping  at  Garrison's,  and  orossingby  steun-fenyto  the  West  Point  Hotel  or  to 
Cossens',  just  below.    Arrive  in  three  hours,  by  or  before  no<m  (page  1S8).  . 

Tisit  the  Military  Academy,  the  ruins  of  Fort  Putnam,  Kosciusko's  Garden, 
Weir's  Studio,  etc. 

TinsoAT.  Morning  steamboat  or  early  train  to  Newburi^  (9  miles,  crossing  ferries 
included,  one  hour),  stop  at  the  Orange  Hotel,  on  the  Hi^  street,  or  at  the  Pow- 
hattan,  an  elegant  summer  establishment  in  tiie  suburbs ;  visit  Washington's 
Head  Quarters  in  the  village.  After  dinner,  take  a  carriage  for  "Idlewild,"  the 
charming  home  of  N.  P.  Willis,  four  miles  down  the  river.  Explore  the  grounds 
and  the  beautiful  mountain  brook  and  glen.  Visit  <*  Oedailawn,"  the  residence 
of  the  author  Headley,  on  the  way,  a  mile  below  Newburgh  (pages  180, 181). 

WuHnsDAT.  Morning  steamboat  or  by  Railway  from  Fishkill,  opposite  Newburgh, 
to  Oskhill,  opposite  Catskill ;  61  miles,  2  hours,  i«tide» /uriti.  From  Catskill 
village,  in  good  coaches,  12  miles,  through  a  most  picturesque  hill  and  valley  tA- 
gion,  to  the  Mountain  House  (page  144). 

Thubsdat.  Look  out  for  the  grand  spectacle,  from  this  point,  of  the  sun-rise.  After 
breakfast  walk  to  the  North  Mountain,  overlooking  the  Hotel  and  the  two  lakes ; 
next,  join  the  usual  morning  party  in  the  two-mile  ride  to  the  High  Falls :  back 
to  dinner. 

Fbidat.  Ride  firom  the  Mountain  House  through  the  great  Eauterskill  Glove,  west- 
ward to  the  village  of  Palenville,  returning  by  valley  and  mountain  road  east* 
ward ;  or  explore  the  ravines  and  cascades  of  the  Clove,  better  on  /oot—%  good 
day's  tramp. 

Satubdat.    Return  to  New  Tork,  via  Catskill  Tillage  and  the  Hndson  River. 

%*  tf  more  time  is  at  command,  devote  a  day  to  a  visit  to  High  Peak,  another 
to  the  Stony  Clove,  and  another  to  the  Plauteridll  dove  and  CrMk. 

*  For  Bailway  Tlme-Tables  coasolt  Appletoaa*  Monthly  Bailway  and  Steam  Navlfatton 
Guide. 


* 


\ 


14 


"^nuunoir  toum. 


,  A  TOUB  OF  BIZ  DATS, 

FMMn^ AJbmMtmd TVoy  (tto  <A«  Eudion  JNmt), Saratoga  Springtt  £ai*  Otoffft, 
Tbrt  Tkonaercgat  and  WMUhaU,  <m  £ai4  OkampMm. 

MbniAT.  Vrom  Nor  Toik  bj  inoniliig  boat  or  oars,  ria  Hadion  Birer,  146  milei,  5 
wr  6  iMNm,  to  Albanj  (MoAlbuiy  tad  Troj,  pp.  IM  uid  186.) 

VvMDAT.  Baflwftj  tIa  SehMiMtady  or  Tray,  45  or  SO  milM,  two  sad  %  half  honn,  to 
Saratoga  Springi.  Stop  at  the  United  States  Hotel,  or  at  the  Union  Hall  (p.  149). 

WamnwAT.  To  Lake  Oeorge  bj  Bailwaj  16  milei ,  to  Moreau  Station,  and  thenoe  b j 
plank  road,  an  hour  or  two,  ria  CHen'i  Falls  to  Oaldwell.  Stop  orer  nfght  at  the 
Lake  Honse,  or  at  the  Fort  William  Heniy  Hotel,  close  bj  (page  161). 

Tbuisdat.    Spend  the  daj  on  the  lake  boating  and  fishing,  or  sketching. 

FkiDAT.  Hake  th«  rojage  of  the  lake  in  the  beautiM  new  steamer,  the  "  Hinne- 
haha»"  a  few  hoars,  sail  to  the  Tillage  of  Tioonderoga,  at  the  foot  or  north  end 
of  the  lake;  thence  8  or  4  miles  by  coach  to  the  rains  of  Fort  Tioonderoga. 

Satobdat.    Betam  home  by  the  Lake  Champlain  steamers  to  Whitehall  (page  164), 

and  thence  bj  Bailwaj  ria  Troy  and  the  Hadson. 

%*  Same  toar  (except  on  the  Hudson),  within  the  same  time  from  Boston, 
taking  the  Western  Bauway,  thence  {Moniaifi)  SOO  miles  to  Albany. 

A  TOUB   OF  SIX  DATS, 

Tiriti/ng  TnKtonamAIIiaQwa  FoXU,  laiaHht  Omitral  BaOway,  and  Jtdumiitff  by  tJU 

Mw  Tori  and  EritBoad, 

MoTOAT.  From  New  Tork  to  Trenton  Falls,  ria  Hadson  Birer,  146  miles  to  Albany, 
Central  Bailway,  96  miles  to  Utica,  thenoe  16  miles  to  the  Falls  (page  166). 

TrasDAT.    Ezplora  the  Falls. 

WmnsDAT.  Betam  to  Utica  and  resame  Joamey  on  the  Central  Boad,  lia  Syraoose 
and  Bochester  (Fslls  of  the  Oenesee)  to  Niagara  (page  161). 

TmiasDAT.    At  Ni^^ara. 

Fbidat.  To  Baffalo,  and  tiience  by  the  Erie  Bailwaj,  passing  the  night  at  Bhif^uonton. 

SAroBDAT.    Erie  Boad  from  Binghamton  to  New  Tork. 

*«*  If  more  time  is  at  command,  remain  over  Sunday  at  Niagara,  and  fbllow 

the  pioturesque  route  of  the  Erie  Boad  moro  leisurelj,  seeing  the  cascades  and 

rarines  of  the  Genesee,  and  the  snreat  BailwsT  Bridge  at  Poruge,  61  miles  from 

Buffblo.    Elmira,  S78  miles  from  New  Tork ;  Owego.  286  miles ;  Oroat  B«id,  200 

.     miles  J  and  Port  Jerris,  88  miles,  aro  pleasant  stoppmg  places  on  the  waj. 

TOUB  OF  A  WEEK, 
VUUing  JPMladtlphia,  JSdUimdre,  and  WatMngton  OUy. 

MoHDAT.  From  New  Tork  b j  morning  line  to  Philadelphia  on  the  Ntow  Jersej  Bail- 
waj, 87  miles,  or  bj  the  Camden  and  Amboj  roate  (pages  174  and  176).  Arrire 
in  the  earlj  afternoon. 

TmsDAT.    At  Philadelphia  (see  page  182). 

Wbdhisdat.  Morning  train  to  Baltimoro  (page  179),  97  miles;  anrire  in  the  earlj 
afternoon.    For  Baltimoro  see  page  199. 

Thcbsdat.  Spend  the  daj  in  Baltimoro,  and  take  the  erening  train  (page  214),  40 
miles,  2  hours,  to  Washington. 

FUDAT.    At  Washington  (page  216). 

Satcbdat.    Betnm  to  New  Tork  bj  Baltimoro  and  Philadelphia,  224  miles. 

%*  If  more  time  can  b^  spared,  remain  in  Washington  Saturdaj  and  Sunday, 
Tisiting  Mount  Yemon  (pMe  218),  Geoigetown,  Alexandria,  etc.  Betnm  on 
Monday  to  Philaddphia,  andnextoaj  leisurelj  to  New  Tork. 


.SKBJBTOir  TOUBB, 


IB 


TOUB  OF  ▲  WEEK, 
VUUng  ikt  VaJUif  pf  Wyomlmg  and  M«  IMowar*  TToto*  ffqp»      * 

MoiiDAT.   From  New  York  by  the  Erie  Baflwaj,  800  mflct,  to  Gt««l  Bead. 

Tranur.  Bj  the  Delaware,  Laduwanoa  and  Weetem  Railway  to  BoraDtoa,  aa  in- 
tereeting  plaoe;  thence  to  Wilkesbarre,  on  the  Biuqaehaana»  and  in  the  Talley 
of  Wyoming  (page  IM). 

WnmnDAT.  Explore  the  ralley,  Tiiitbg  Proepeet  Boel^  S  mile*  from  the  Tillage 
andlTantiooke,  in  the  beautiful  pasiage  of  the  Snaqndianna,  at  the  Sontham  ex- 
tremity of  Wyoming. 

Thcudat.  Retaming,  take  the  cart  TiaHaaohOhonk,  lathe  eool  region,  to  Ballon 
and  the  Water  Gap. 

Fridat.    At  the  Water  Gap  (see  page  107.) 

Satubdat.  Beach  home  by  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna,  and  Weitem  BaOway,  and 
other  roates  aoroas  New  Jersey. 

\*  With  more  time,  it  would  be  agreeable  to  spend  a  day  at  Scrantmi,  two  or 
three  in  and  below  the  YalleT  of  Wyomintr ;  to  stop  at  If  each  Ohnnek,  and  lee 
the  coal  mines  and  the  bold  landscape  of  uie  Lehif^  Birer. ' 


T0T7B  OF  TWO  WEEKS, 

VUUiing  tht  WUU  MnuUaUutrndik*  Ldk*  Semury  ^  Nm  JBamptkkt,  9ia  Botbn^ 

9  FIB8T  WEBK. 

MoiTDAT.    From  New  York  to  Boston  (page  61),  journey  occupying  the  night,  by  the 

Stonington  and  ProWdence,  the  Fall  Birer  or  the  Norwich  loutea  (morning  and 

erening),  or  by  the  Bailway  Express. 
TrasDAT.    Boston  (page  66.) 
Wm)ifi8DAT.    Boston  to  Centre  Harbor,  on  Lake  Winnipiseogee  (page  88) ;  anire  at 

dinner  time ;  spend  the  afternoon  on  the  lake  or  lake  slu»«8. 
Thdbsdat.    Yisit  Bed  Hill  (on  horseback),  a  fow  miles  distant,  sad  oreriodk  the 

beantifid  lake  region  (page  91). 
FsiDAT.    Proceed,  by  the  White  Mountain  stages,  to  North  Conway,  one  of  the  moat 

charming  yalleys  in  the  worid ;  stop  orer  night  at  Thompson's  (page  91). 
Satubdat.    Continue  Journey  by  stage  24  miles  to  Crawford  House,  in  the  Great 

White  Mountain  Notch— trarersing  the  yalleys  of  Conway,  Bartlett,  ete. 
SuxDAT.    Crawford  House  (page  96). 

BEOOND  WEEK. 
Monday.    Ascend  Mount  Washington  (page  96). 

TinsDAT.    Yisit  the  Silver  Cascade  and  other  scenes  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Notch. 
WaomsDAT.    Continue  journey,  by  stage,  86  miles  (page  99),  to  the  Profile  House,  in 

the  Franconia  group  of  the  White  Hills,  following  the  course  of  the  Ammonoosnc. 
Thcisdat.    Profile  House;  visit  Echo  Lake  and  Profile  Lake,  and  see  the  Old  Man 

of  the  Mountain,  Eagle  Cliff,  Cannon  Mountain,  and  other  sights  of  the  yidnage. 
Fbidat.    Bide  6  miles,  from  the  Profile  to  the  Flume  House ;  risit  the  Flume  and  ita 

neighboring  maiTels. 
Satubdat.    Betuming,  take  stage  to  Idttieton,  16  miles ;  thence  by  Bailway  SO  mfles 

to  Wells'  Biver ;  thence  through  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut  to  Bellowi  Falli^ 

Braitteboro,  or  Northampton. 
SuHDAT.    At  BellowB  FalUi,  Bratfleboro  or  Northampton. 


V 


le 


nVUDOV  TOUMk 


Tkno  MdirDAT.   BonM,fl«miVoffttMBploD,:bj8pi1ngMd,Birtfcrd,aBdHfirB«Tta, 
m  (from  Bdknm  7aUi)  by  llbuy  ud  th«  HndMn. 


A  TOUR  or  TWO  WEEKS, 

IhmJ/itororktoas  WMU  MomtatM^j^  Bodoii  aiUl  Jbrikmd,  MmUitt  iM  O* 

Cfomtetkui  VaU^  Boutm, 

wan  WBXK. 

MoaDAT.   Haw  Toik  to  B<Mtoik<iM  vontMi,  p«g«  61). 

TuMDAT.    At  Boston  (page  65). 

WaoMMDAT.   BoitoB  to  Fortlaad,  MaiiM  (im  maim,  pagt  68). 

Tbitmdat.    At  Portland  (ptge  68). 

FaiDAT.    From  Portland  by  the  Grand  Trank  Railway,  91  miles  to  CNnrham,  N.  H., 

White  Mountain  Station  (paga  94);  oontinae  Joomey  in  ooaohes  7  miles  totha 

Olen  House  (pagalti). 
Batvbdat.    Jonmej  by  stage  from  the  CHm  Honae^  8A  mileif,  to  the  Grswftird  Honse^ 

White  Mountain  Notch. 
BcHOAT.    At  the  Crawford  Hooae. 

BSOOBD  WBSK. 
Explore  the  White  Moontaina  and  retnni  ^ome»  aa  in  preoeding  Tonr. 


A  TOUR  07  TWO  WEEKS, 


Viriting  <A4  N«w  Fnffltmd  OUiet,  Ntw  Savm,  ffariford,  S^tHng/Md,  JBotton,  PnH- 

denet,  and  Ntmport. 

VTBBT  WEEK 
MoMDAT.    From  Kew  Yoric  to  New  Haren,  Oi,  76  miles,  by  the  New  Haren  Railway ; 

Tisit  Tale  College,  the  Trumbull  Gallery,  etc.  (page  63).  "^ 

TmsDAT.    Continue  journey,  86  miles,  to  Hartford,  Ct.  (page  62). 
WnnrasoAT.    To  Springfield,  Mass.,  26  miles  (page  68);  riait  the  United  Statea 

Armory,  etc. 

TnjianAT.    To  Boston,  98  miles  (page  66). 

Fbidat.    At  Boston  (page  65). 

Batuboat.    AtBoaton. 

•  BnxDAT.    AtBoaton.  

BEOOND  WEEK. 

MoHDAT.  Morning  train  from  Boston,  48  miles,  to  Providence  (page  88) ;  see  the 
Library  of  Brown  Unirersity  and  the  Atheneum ;  risit  the  Seekonk  Birer  and 
*'  What  Cheer  Book,"  on  the  edge  of  the  city,  the  Tillage  and  Falls  of  Pawtucket, 
near  by,  etc 

TuHWAT.  At  Pioridenoe ;  take  a  sail  down  the  Narragansett  Bay  and  back,  in  one 
of  the  numerous  excursion  steamers  (page  84). 

WammaoAT.  Take  the  ateamboat  down  the  Narragansett  Bay,  from  ProTidevee  to 
Newport ;  a  channing  Toyage  of  some  two  hours. 

Thdbsdat.    At  Newport  (page  86). 

Fbidat.    At  Newport. 

SATraoAT.    At  Newport 

SovDAT.    At  Newport. 

MoxnAT.    Home. 


Tt 
Wl 


Mc 

To 

Wl 
Ti 

Fa 

8ai 


Mo 

Toi 
Wi 

Ts 
Fa 

Ba 
Sit 
M( 


njoxros  TotTMt 


17 


hinm. 


tfOt 


totiM 


taiM 


the 
and 
sk«t, 

on* 

to 


TOUB  OF  TWO  WEEKS, 

i 


ratST 

ICoKDAT.  From  New  Tork,  ria  New  Haren  Railway  (page  ii),  to  Bridgeport,  Oi ; 
thenoe,  without  stopping,  bj  the  Hoaiatonio  Bailwaj  (page  80)  up  Ooralley  and 
rirer  of  the  Hontatonic  to  Great  Barrington,  in  Bei^ihire,  Maia. 

TvMOAT.    At  Oreat  Barrington  (page  81). 

WiDiTMOAT."^  From  Oreat  Barrington,  Bailwaj  M  milea  to  Old  Stodkbridge. 

TnouDAT.    At  Old  Stookbri^ge  (page  81). 

Fbidat.    Lebanon  Springe. 

8ATC>n4T.    Lebanon  Sprinp  (page  171). 

SmiDAT.    Lebanon  Springs.    Visit  ShakerTillage,  near  by  (page  171). 

8E0OND  WBEK. 
MoxDAT.    Visit  Pittsfleld,  Williamstown,  Lenox,  Adams,  eto. 
TuisoAT.    Visit  Pittsfleld,  Williamstown,  Lenox,  Adams,  eto. 
WaomsnAT.    Visit  Pittsfleld,  Williamstown,  Lenox,  Adams,  eto. 
Thdisdat.    Return  Tia  Western  Railway  to  Albany,  or  by  the  Berkshire  Boad  to 

Hudson,  and  thence  down  the  Hudson  Rirer  to  West  P^t, 
Fb»at.    At  West  Point  (page  188).  ' 

Satobdat.    Bade  in  New  Tortu 


TOUR  OF  TWO  WEEKS, 
VMUng  th4  VaOtif  qf  th«  €hiutteti«tit. 

XoKDAT.  By  Railway  from  New  Tork  ria  New  Haren  and  HartiRnd,  Oi,  to  Springp 
Add,  Ifass.,  188  miles;  dine,  risit  the  U.  S.  Armory,  etc  (pages  81  to  88). 

TrasDAT.    To  Northampton,  17  milee,  by  Railway,  n  jar  the  banks  of  the  Conneotlcnt 

WnowMDAT.  At  Northampton  (page  78),  risiting  Mount  Holyoke,  and  other  soenes 
of  great  interest  in  the  immediate  neighborhood. 

Teussdat.  Continue  on  the  Railways  up  the  ralley  and  rirer  19  mOes  to  Greenfleld, 
Mass. ;  walk  in  the  erening  to  the  high  ridge  called  Poet's  Seat,  finely  oreriook- 
ing  all  the  country  round. 

FuDAT.  Resume  the  journey  (by  Railway  always),  up  the  ralley,  21  miles  Airther, 
to  Brattleboro,  in  Vermont.  This  is  one  of  the  most  agreeable  resting  places  on 
the  route ;  one  of  the  most  attractire  in  scenery,  sodety,  hotd  comforts,  eto. 
(see  page  78). 

Satobdat.  Visit  the  grounds  of  the  Insane  Asylum,  West  Rirer,  the  Cemetery,  and 
other  charming  localities  in  the  ricinage  of  Brattleboro. 

SuxDAT.  Still  at  Brattleboro ;  a  pleasant  place  for  a  Sunday  hdt»  all  irard  being 
suspended  on  that  day  hereabouts. 

MoNDAT.  Resume  journey  84  miles  further  up  the  rirer  to  Bellows  Falls  (page  79).  At 
this  point  the  trardler  may  turn  back  if  he  pleases  by  railway  ria  Rutland,  Vt, 
Whitehall,  on  Lake  Champlain,  Saratoga  Springs,  Albany  or  Troy,  and  the  Hud- 
■on  Rirer;  going  on  Tuesday  to  Saratoga,  and  on  Wednesday  to  New  Toi^ ;  or 
he  may  oontinue  on  with  m  yet  ftirther  up  tiie  r*Uey  of  the  Conneotioai 


\. 


19 


SKBLBTON  TOUBS. 


TmnoAT.    From  BeUo]r«  Falls  20  miles  to  Windsor,  Yi,  a  veiy  quiet,  picturesque 

and  pleasant  place  (page  79). 
Wbdnisdat.    Ascend  If  cunt  Ascntney,  near  Windsor. 
Thdisdat.    From  Windsor  (retnniing)  by  the  Yermont  Central  Road,  through  the 

charming  Tallej  of  the  WinoosU  to  Burlington,  on  Lake  Champlain  (page  101). 
FuDAT.    Cross  the  Lake  from  Buriington  to  Port  Kent,  and  visit  the  bold  ravine 

called  the  Walled  Banks  of  the  Ansable. 
SATimnAT.    Home  by  Whitehall,  Troy,  Albany,  and  the  Hudson. 

%*  At  Winder  (Second  Tuesday  of  this  tour),  the  traveller  being  on  one  of  the 

most  agreeable  routes  thence,  may  continue  his  journey  eastward  to  the  White 

Mountain  Region. 


Ti 
WJ 


TOUR  OF  THREE  WEEKS, 

VitUing  the  ffwUon  JWp«r,  Saratoga  ^aringt,  Lake  George,  LaJee  Champlain,  Jfot^- 
treat,  Quebec,  and  the  Sagvenajf  JBiver,  the  St.  Lawrence  Biner,  Niagara  FaUe,  and 
the  Bomery  qf  the  Erie  BaOway. 

FIBST  WEEK 
HoKDAT.    From  New  York  to  Albany,  by  stesuboat  or  railway  (Hudson  River), 

thence  by  railway  to  Saratoga  (pa^  119  and  149). 
TciSDAT.    Saratoga  Springs  (page  149).  ,,         <i"^ 

Wbdnisdat.    To  Caldwell  on  Lake  Oeorge  (page  ISl). 
Thtosdat.    Down  Lake  George  to  Fort  Ticonderoga  on  Lake  Champlain  (page  160 

to  168). 
Fbidat.    Steamer  on  Lake  Champlain  to  Platbiburg  (page  168),  thence  by  railway  to 

MontreaL 
Satcbdat.    Montreal  (page  82). 
SuHDAT.    McmtreaL 

SECOND  WEEK. 
MoRDAT.    Railway  or  St.  Lawrence  River  to  Quebec  (page  86). 
TcasnAT.    Quebec  (page  86). 

Wbdmbsdat.    Down  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  mouth  of  the  Sagnenay  (page  29). 
Thubsdat.    Yoyage  up  the  Sagnenay. 
Fbidat.    Back  to  Quebec. 
Satcbdat.    Grand  Trunk  Railway  to  Montreal. 
SoKDAT.    Montreal. 

THIBD  WEEK. 
MoNDAT.    ITp  the  St.  Lawrence  by  the  Thousand  Islands  to  Kingston  (page  890). 
TuBSDAT.    Grand  Trunk  Railway  via  Toronto  to  Hamilton;  thence,  by  the  Great 

Western  Road  to  Suspension  Bridge,  Niagara. 
Wbdmbsdat.    Niagara  Falls  (page  161). 
Thitbsdat.    Niagara. 
Fbidat.    Erie  Railway  (returning)  to  Owego  or  Bingbamton,  or  to  Utica  on  the 

Central  Route. 
Satcbdat.    Home, 

*«*  Omit  the  detour  firom  Montreal  to  Quebec,  and  back,  and  make  this  tour 
.  within  two  weeks  instead  of  three. 


Fr 

Sa< 


Mo 
Wi 


Thi 


Fri 
Sai 
Set 

Mo 
Tui 
Wi 
Thi 
Fb] 
Sai 


Mo 


SKXLKTON  TOUBS. 


m 


toresqae, 


ouj^  the 
tge  101). 
Id  ravine 


>ne  of  the 
he  White 


dn,Ifot^ 
^<UU,and 


\  Biyer), 

page  160 
ilwayto 


>). 


90). 
Great 


on  the 


istoor 


HUNTINa  TOUR  OF  THBEB  WI!EKS» 
To  th$  Saranac  Lake$t  in,  the  WUdemm  tff  NoHImn  Nm  Tori. 

FIB8T  WEEK. 
MoiiDAT.    From  "Sm  Toik  to  Port  Kent,  opposite  Boriingtoo,  on  Lake  Ohamplain, 

via  Hudson  River,  Saratoga  Springs,  and  Whitehall  (page  168).   From  Port  Kent, 

by  omnibus  or  stage  fire  miles  back,  to  Keeseville.    Stop  at  the  Ansable  House. 
.TmuDAT.    Visit  the  romarkable  ravines  and  casbades  near  Keeseville,  called  the 

Walled  Banks  of  the  Ausable  (page  166). 
WnoirasDAT.    Take  the  tri-weeklj  mail  wagon  or  private  carriage,  toe  the  banks  of 

the  Lower  Saranac  Lake,  stopping  at  Baker's,  a  mile  distant,  or  at  Martin's  on 

the  shoK  (page  168). 
Thubsdat.    Secure  the  services  of  a  guide  and  hunter,  with  his  boat,  dogs,  tent,  and 

all  necessary  equipments  and  provisions  for  camp  lift,  all  the  journey  hence  being 

by  water  (page  169). 
Fbzdat.    On  the  Lower  Saranac,  crossing  the  "  carrying  place  "  in  the  afternoon  to 

the  Middle  Saranac,  on  the  shore  of  which  camp  for  the  nig^t,  after  a  supper  of 

trout,  readily  taken,  with  venison,  perohance,  to  boot 
Satubdat  and  Sunday.    Camp  on  the  Upper  Saranac,  one  of  the  most  beautiftal  of 

these  lakes,  and  a  fine  hunting  and  fishing  ground. 

BEOONB  WEEK. 
Monday  and  Tcisday.    Visit  the  St  Regis  Lake. 
Wkdnisday.    Return  to  the  Middle  Saranac  (or  Round  Lake),  make  a  short  portage 

to  the  Stony  Creek  Pond ;  and  thence  reach  **  the  Racquette  River,"  by  a  pull  of 

three  miles  on  the  Stony  Creek.    Camp  for  the  night.  « 

Thursday.    Voyage  on  the  Racquette  River  of  20  miles  to  Tupper's  Lake.    The 

tourist  is  here  at  the  last  and  most  charming  portion  of  the  region  comprised  in 

our  present  tour ;  and  here,  be  he  artist  or  hunter,  he  will  be  very  willing  to  pass 

the  remainder  of  the  time  which  his  furlough  grants  to  him.     Lough  Neah  is  a 

continuation  of  the  picturesque  waters  of  Tupper's  Lake. 

Friday.    Tupper's  Lake  (page  109). 

Saturday.    Tupper's  Lake  (page  109). 

Sunday.    Tupper's  Lake  (page  109). 

THIRD  WEEK 
Monday.    Tupper's  Lake. 

Tursday.    Returning;  retraverse  the  Racquette  River. 

Wrdnrsday.    Arrive  at  the  Middle  Saranac  Lake.  » 

Thursday.    Back  to  the  starting  point  on  the  Lower  Saranac. 

Friday.    Regain  Lake  Champlain  at  Port  Kent,  or  at  Westport 

Saturday.    Home. 

%*  If  the  traveller  in  this  wonderful  region  be  addicted  to  the  rifle,  the  rod, 

or  the  pencil,  he  may  extend  his  visit  with  pleasure  from  three  weeks  to  three 

months.    The  Adirondack  hills  and  lakes— another  portion  of  this  marvellous 

*     wilderness— are  not  far  removed  firom  the  Saranac ;  and  one,  two,  or  more  weeks 

might  be  spent  there  with  great  satisfaction  (page  169). 


TOUR  OF  FOUR  WEEKS, 
To  ih4  Great  Zaiee,  via  Quebec,  Montreal,  the  St.  ZatoreneeMojiara  FaUt,  dbc 

FIB8T  WEEK. 
Monday.    From  New  Tork,  via  Albany  and  Troy,  to  Saratoga. 


\ 


£0 


SKBLBTOK  IdUBS* 


TraaoAT.    Saratoga  Springs. 

WiDHisDAT.    To  Montreal,  by  Railway  or  Steamer  on  Lake  Ohamplain. 

Thubsdat.    IfontreaL 

Fbioat.    To  Quebec. 

Satubdat.    Quebec  and  rioinity,  rishing  the  Falls  of  MontmorenC^  the  Ohaadiere,  fte. 

SuMDAT.    Quebec. 

8B00ND  WEEK. 
MoMDAT.    Grand  Trunk  Railway,  by  Montreal,  to  Toronto,  on  Lake  Ontario. 
TcasoAT.    The  Ontario,  Simooe,  and  Huron  Railway,  97  n]dles,  to  Gollingwood,  on  the 

Georgian  Bay,  an  arm  of  Lake  Huron. 
Wbdkisdat.    By  Steamer,  on  Lake  Huron  (page  48),  to  the  Straits  of  .Mackinac, 

(pagett). 
Thubsdat.    MaoUnao. 
Fbidat.    Mackinac. 
Satvbdat.    Steamer  to  the  Sault  St.  Marie-^he  connecting  link  of  the  waters  of 

Huron  and  Lake  Superior. 
SuNDAT.    At  the  Sault  de  St.  Marie. 

TmSD  WEEK. 
Voyage  on  Lake  Superior. 

FOURTH  WEEK. 

Monday.    From  the  Sault  de  St.  Sforie  (returning)  (Steamer  on  Lake  Huron)  to 

Detroit,  Michigan. 
ToH^T.    Great  Western  Railway  to  Suspension  Bridge,  Niagara  Falls. 
WaomsDAT.    Niagara  Falls. 
Thubsoat.    Niagara  Falls. 

Fbidat.    To  Utica  Central  Railway,  or  to  Binghamton,  Erie-Jitoute. 
Satdbdat.    To  New  York. 


Si 


TOUR  OF  FOUR  WEEKS, 


lb  tU  Virginia  Springt^  Wevi^a  Cave,  tU  Naburai  Bridge,  the  IMti  of  Otter,  dc. 

FIBST  WEEK. 
MomtAT.    From  New  York  to  Philadelphia  (pages  174  and  176). 
TuiSDAT.    Philadelphia  to  Baltimore  (page  179). 
WiDNBSDAT.    Baltimore  to  Washington  City  (page  215). 
Thubsdat.    At  Washington  City— visit  Mount  Yemen. 
Fbidat.    To  Alexandria ;  and  thence,  by  the  Orange  and  Alexandria  RaOway, 

88  miles ;  and  from  Gordonsville,  on  the  Virginia  Central  Road,  64  miles  to 

Staimton. 
Satcbdat.    Stage  or  Carriage,  17  miles,  to  Weir's  Care. 
ScNDAT.    At  Weir's  Care  (page  i 


BEGOND  WEEK. 
MoKDAT.    At  Weir's  Cave,  returning  in  the  afternoon  to  Staunton. 
ToiSDAT.    Continue  journey  on  the  Central  Road,  as  far  as  it  at  present  extends,  and 

proceed  thence  to  the  White  Sulphur  Springs  by  Stage. 
Wbdnbsdat.    Unroutf. 
Thubsdat.    White  Sulphur  Springs  (page  282). 


BKWiigroy  TOUBfl. 


n 


idiere^Ao. 

od,onthe 
faddnao, 

vratera  of 


Fbidat.    White  Sulphur  Springs. 
Satdbdat.    White  Sulphur  Spring!. 
SuHDAT.    White  Sulphur  Springs. 

.  TUIED  WEEK 

May  be  deroted  to  the  otber  Springs  of  this  Region. 

EOXTBTH  WEEK. 
Visit  the  Natural  Bridge,  68  miles  firom  Am  White  Sulphur  Springs;  12  miles  from 
Lexington;  86  miles  from  Lynchbur^in  the  Virginia  and  Teunessee  Railwaj, 
from  Richmond,  west  (page  286) ;  next,  see  the  Peaks  of  Otter  (page  287)t  in  the 
same  region.  Return  home  by  the  Virginia  and  Tennessee  Road,  from  Lynch- 
burg to  Richmond  (page  220) ;  thence,  by  the  Oreat  Southern  Mail  Route  to 
Washington ;  or,  more  agreeably,  by  the  James  Rirer  and  the  Chesapeake  Bay, 
to  Baltimore ;  from  Baltimore  to  Philadelphia;  from  Philadelphia  to  New  York. 
*«*  For  landscape  beauties  not  mentioned  here  in  the  Spring  Region  of 
Western  Virginia,  see  page  240  and  following.  This  tour  might  be  pleasantly 
extended  to  two  or  eyen  three  months. 


!uroa)  to 


^,  wc. 


tailway, 
niles  to 


ds,  and 


TOUR  OP  FOUR  WEEKS, 


livm  New  Tori,  via  Botlon  and  Portland,  to  Qu^ee  and  (he  8agu«nay,  Jiioniredl,  tht 


Ottawa,  and  the  8t.  Lavjrenoe,  retvrninaoy  Niagara  and  Trenton  Falh,  aorth 
toga  Springtf  and  the  JSudeon  Biver.  vitour  tff  ten  daya  {extra)  to  the  White 
Mtnmtaine. 

FIB8TWEEK. 

HbsDAT.    New  York  to  Boston— see  Routes  page  61  and  following. 
I^UKBDAT.    At  Boston  (page  66).     ■ 
^^Wbdmisdat.    Boston  to  Portland,  Maine— Routes  page  68. 
Thubsdat.    At  Portland  (page  68). 
Fbidat.    From  Portland  to  Quebec,  by  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  (pages  86  and  69.) 

J}6ttyurcf  Ten  JDaya  to  White  Mowdaine, 

{The  White  Mountains  may  be  pleasantly  Tisited  from  this  part  of  our  present 
Route  (in  ten  extra  days),  stopping  at  €U>rham,  N.  H.,  91  miles  on  the  way 
from  Portland^  reaching  Glen  House,  7  miles  from  Gk>rham,  same  day ;  Craw- 
ford House^White  Mountain  Notch,  on  Saturday ;  and  so  on,  as  per  programme 
of  Sbcond  Wbkk,  in  Tours,  pages  15  and  16 :  returning  to  the  Glen  House  by 
the  Second  Sunday,  and  resunung  Journey  (nom  Qorham  to  Quebec)  on  Mon- 
day following.] 

Satobdat.    At  Quebec  (page  86). 

SmfDAY.    At  Quebec. 

BEOOiJT*  WEEK. 

Monday.    At  Quebec,  yisiting  Falls  of  Montmorenci,  of  the  Chandiere,  of  Si  Anne» 

Ac.  (page  87). 
TuBSDAT.    Excursion  to  Saguenay  Rirer  and  back  to  Quebec,  as  in  Tour  (page  18). 
Wbdnbsdat.    Excursion  to  Saguenay  River  and  back  to  Quebec. 
Thdbsdat.    Excursion  to  Saguenay  River  and  back  to  Quebec. 
Fbidat.    From  Quebec,  by  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  or  St.  Lnwrenoe  Biver,  to 

Montreal. 
Batvbdat.    Montreal  (page  82). 
SoiTDAT.    Montreal  (page  83). 


\ 


82 


ISaLKEON  TOUBS. 


THIBD  WB9K. 
MoNDiLr.    Ezonnioa  up  fhe  Ottawa  Birer  from  Montreal  and  bade  (pagea  26  to  S9> 
ToMDAT.    Szouraion  up  the  Ottawa  Birer  flrom  Montreal  and  back. 
WaDirasoAT.    Excursion  up  the  Ottawa  Birer  from  Montreal  and  back.        , 
Thubsdat.    Up  the  St.  Lawrence  aald  Lake  Ontario  (or  by  Grand  Trunk  Bailway)  to 

Niagara  Falls  (page  89). 
Fbidat.    Up  the  St  Lawrence  and  Lake  Ontario  (or  by  Orand  Trunk  Bailway)  to 

Niagara  Falls.  -j^ 

Satubdat.    At  Niagara  Falls  (page  161). 
SuMDAT.    At  Niagara  Falls.  ^ 

FOUBTH  WEEK. 
MoKDAT.    Still  at  Niagara. 

TunoAT.    By  Central  Bailway  to  Utioa. 

WiDMiBDAT.    From  Utioa,  16  miles,  to  Trenton  Falls. 

Thubsdat.    At  Trenton  Falls  (page  166),  returning  to  Utioa  in  the  erening. 

Fbidat.    Journey  to  and  stay  at  Saratoga  Springs  (page  149). 

Satubdat.    Back  to  New  York,  via  Troy,  Albany,  and  the  Hudson  Biver  (page  119). 


TOUB  OF  FOUR  WEEKS,  ^ 

Jb  the  l^siptr  MMm^pi,  via  Niagara.  Detroit.  Chieago,  VS^trauiM,  B.  JBin^  J^. 

Zouiit  LouumUe,  dncinnati,  etc 

FIB8T  WEEK. 
Moin>AT.    From  New  York  to  Niagara  by  the  Erie  Railway,  444  mUes,  or  by  the 

Central  route,  466  miles— a  journey  more  comfortably  made  in  two  days  than 

one,  if  time  serves. 
TuMDAT.    Niagara  (page  161), 

WaoinsDAT.    By  the  Great  Western  Bailway,  229  mUes,  to  Detroit 
Thubsdat.    By  the  Michigan  Central  road,  284  miles,  to  Chicago. 
Fbidat.    Chicago,  Bl.  (page  861). 
Satubdat.    To  Milwaukee  by  steamer  on  Lake  Michigan,  or  by  railway  along; 

shore,  85  miles. 
SuMDAT.    At  Milwaukee,  Wis.  (page  868). 

SECOND  WEEK. 
Visit  to  St  Paul,  Minnesota,  leaving  Ifilwaukee  on  Monday  for  Madison,  Wis.,  and 
thence  (ciTCuitously)  by  railway  to  Dubuque  on  the  Mississippi,  or  returning,  to 
Chicago,  and  thence  to  Dubuque  direct,  by  the  Galena  and  Chicago  route.  From 
Dubuque  by  steamer  up  the  Mississippi  river  to  St.  Paul  and  the  Falls  of  St.  An- 
thony. Betuming  by  the  end  of  the  week  (second  of  the  tour)  via  the  river,  to 
.St.  Louis. 

THIBD  WEEK 
MoNDAT.    At  St  Louis  (page  860). 

TuBSDAT.    By  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Bailway,  and  the  New  Albany  and  Salon  road 

to  Louisville. 
Wbdnbsdat.    At  LouisvUle,  Ky.  (page  819). 
Thubsdat.    At  Louisville. 

(Another  week  would  permit  the  traveller  to  visit  the  Mammoth  Cave  veiy  agree< 

ably  from  this  the  chief  point  of  detour  thither.) 
Fbidat.    By  railway  or  steamer  on  the  Ohio  river  to  Cincinnati. 


gKBLBIOH  TOUBS. 


SjavmoAT.    At  OinelnBati,  Ohio  (page  880). 
BoRDAT.    AiOindimftti. 

FOUBTH  WISK. 

MoMDAT.    97  rdlwsy'toOoliimbas,  Ohio  (page  88S). 

TuwDAT.    Bailway  to  ZraesTille,  Ohio  (page  884). 

WiDNnoAT.    To  Wheeling,  Ya. 

Thiiudat  ahd  FmiDAT.  By  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  road  to  Baltimore,  or  bj  the 
Pennaylrania  railwaj  to  Philadelphia.  Both  these  noble  routea  are  as  magnifi- 
cent in  their  pictorial  attractions  as  in  tiieir  grand  extent— each  traversing  a  wide 
extent  of  country,  replete  with  every  variety  of  natural  beaaty.  For  a  descrip- 
tion of  the  nnmberlessnotoble  scenes  on  the  Baltimore  and  Oliio  Bailway,  see 
pages  201  and  fbllowing.  For  mention  of  the  wonders  on  the  Pennsylvania  route, 
consult  page  190. 

Satubdat.    To  New  York. 


# 


A  WI17TEB  TOUR  OF  SEC  WEEKS, 

VuUtnjf  the  fmdUd  Jteaortaof  Florida,  Savannah  and  Aumuta,  Gto.,  OharUdon 
and  Cohmbia,  8.  C,  JBit^mond,  Va.,  and  WatMngton  CUy. 

VIRBT  WEEK. 
SATntDAT.    Leave  New  7oik  by  the  steamer  of  Saturday  afterhoon,  and  arrive  m 
Savannah  Tuesday  morning.    Spend  tiie  rest  of  the  week  in  Savannah  at  the 
Pulaski  House,  the  Mansion  House,  or  the  City  Hotel  (page  276). 

SECOND  WEEK. 
Satubdat.    Leave  Savannah  in  the  steamer  for  Jacksonville,  Pflatka  and  other  places 
on  the  St.  John's  liver  (pages  265  and  266).    Spend  the  week  hereabouts. 

THIBD  WEEK. 
At  St.  Augustine,  on  the  coast,  below  the  mouth  of  the  Si  John's  (jMge  266).  SL 
Augustine,  or  the  "Ancient  City,"  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  ftom  its  venerable 
age,  which  exceeds  that  of  any  oilier  placb  in  the  Union,  will  tempt  the  visitor  to 
a  long  tarry  with  the  social  attractions  which  ito  fame  as  an  invalid  resort  has 
secured.  The  peculiar  natural  fbatures  of  the  city  and  the  neighborhood,  will 
also  win  his  particular  interest 


At  St  Augustine. 


FOUBTH  WEEK. 
FIFTH  WEEK. 


Betum  to  Savannah  and  take  the  Georgia  Central  raflway  to  Anguste  (page  277), 
thence  by  the  South  Carolina  road  to  Charleston  (page  219). 

SIXTH  WEEK. 
MoRDAT.    By  South  Carolina  railway  firom  Charleston  to  Columbia. 
TtnsDAT.    At  Columbia  (page  267),  resuming  Journey  in  the  afternoon. 
WiDNiSDAT.    Unrottts. 
Thubsdat.    At  Richmond,  Ta.  (page  220). 
Fbtdat.    Arrive  at  Washington  City  (page  215). 
Satubdat.    To  Baltimore  in  the  evening. 
SuMDAT.    At  Baltimore  (page  199). 
MoxDAT.    ToNewTorik 


♦ 


\ 


THE  TRAVELLER'S  ALMAKAO 


VOB 

18S7  — 18S8. 


m 


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Thursday. 
Friday. 

QQ 

2 
9 

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6 

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6 

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7 

1 
8 

2 
9 

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.  1 

•  • 

3 

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•  • 

6 

6 

7  8 

12 

13 

14 

16 

16 

17 

18 

10 

11 

12 

131 

416 

16 

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20 

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22 

23 

24 

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2 

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1 

2 

3 

4  6 

6 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

16 

7 

8 

9 

101 

112 

13 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 

14 

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171 

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20 

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26 

26 

27 

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1 

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3 

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6 

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6 

6 

7 

8 

9 

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7 

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101 

112 

13 

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26 


BRITISH   AMERICA. 


-•  ••- 


The  poesesijions  of  the  British  Crown  in  North  America,  occupy  nearly  all  the 
upper  half  of  the  Continent ;  a  vast  territory,  reaching  from  the  Arctic  aeas,  to 
the  domains  of  the  United  States ;  and  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  Oceans. 
Of  this  great  region,  our  present  explorations  will  refer,  only  to  the  lower  and 
settled  portions,  known  as  the  British  Provinces — ^the  Oanadas,  New  Brunswick, 
and  Nova  Scotia.    The  rest  is  for  the  most  part  yet  a  wilderness. 

*: 

CANADA. 

Gkooiupbt  and  Abea.  Canada,  the  largest  and  most  important  of  the  settled 
portions  of  the  British  territory  in  North  America,  lies  upon  all  the  northern 
border  of  the  United  States,  from  the  Atlantic  coast  to  the  waters  of  Lake 
Superior  and  the  Mississippi.  The  two  provinces  into  which  it  is  divided,  were 
formerly  known  as  Upper  and  Lower  Canada,  or  Canada  East  and  Canada  West; 
and  thus,  indeed,  their  differing  manners,  habits  and  laws,  still  virtually  divide 
and  distinguish  them,  though  they  are  now  nominally  and  politically  united. 
The  entire  length  of  the  Canadian  domain  from  east  to  west,  is  between  twelve 
hmidred  and  tmrteen  hundred  miles,  with  a  breadth  varying  from  two  to  three 
hundred  miles. 

DiscovKRT,  Skttlehent,  ANn  Rulers.  The  earliest  discovery  of  the  Canadas 
is  ascribed  to  Sebastian  Cabot,  149*7 ;  the  first  European  settlement  was  made  at 
St.'  Croix's  Harbour,  in  1541,  by  Jacques  Cartier,  a  French  adventurer,  who 
entered  and  named  the  river  St.  Lawrence.  In  1608,  another  and  more  con- 
siderable settlement  was  made  upon  the  spot  now  occupied  by  the  city  of  Quebec. 
From  that  period  until  1*769,  the  country  continued  under  the  rule  of  France ; . 
and  then  came  the  capture  of  Quebec  by  the  English,  under  General  Wolfe,  and 
the  transfer  within  a  year  thereafter,  of  all  the  territory  of  New  France,  as  the 
country  was  at  that  time  called,  to  the  British  power,  under  which  it  has  ever 
since  remained.  The  mutual  disagreement  which  naturally  arose  from  the  con- 
flicting interests  and  prejudices  of  the  two  opposing  nationalities,  threatened  in- 
ternal trouble  from  time  to  time,  and  finally  displayed  itself  in  the  overt  acts, 
recorded  in  history  as  th#rebellion  of  183*7.  It  was  after  these  incidents,  and 
as  a  consequence  thereof,  that  the  two  sections  of  the  territory  were  formed 
into  one.    This' happened  in  1840. 

Government.  Canada  is  ruled  by  an  executive,  holding  the  title  of  Governor^ 
2 


H 


26 


CANADA. 


The  St  lAwniMA— Th«  ThooMuid  lalaiid*— The  Ottawa. 


General,  received  from  the  crown  of  Great  Britain,  and  bj  a  legislature  called 
the  Provincial  Parliament.  Thia  body  consista  of  an  Upper  and  a  Lower  Houae ; 
the  members  of  the  one  are  summoned  by  the  Queen,  and  hold  their  seats 
for  life ;  those  of  the  other,  are  like  the  Commons  at  home,  elected  by  the 
people. 

Rklioion.  The  dominant  religious  faith  in  Lower  Oanada  or  Canada  East,  is 
that  of  the  Romish  Church ;  while  in  the  upper  province  the  creed  of  the 
English  Establishment  prevails. 

Landsoapk.  The  general  topography  of  Upper  or  Western  Canada,  is  that 
of  a  level  country,  with  but  few  vwriations  excepting  the  passage  of  some 
table  heights,  extendhig  south-westerly.  It  is  the  most  fertile  division  of  the  ter- 
ritory, and  thus  to  the  tourist  in  search  of  the  picturesque,  the  least  attractive. 

The  Lower  Province,  or  Canada  East,  is  extremely  varied  and  beautiftfl  in  its 
phycncal  aspect ;  presenting  to  the  delighted  eye  a  magnificent  gallery  of  charm- 
mg  pictures  of  forest  wil£,  vast  prairies,  hiU  and  rock-bound  rivers,  rushing 
waters,  bold  mountain  heights,  and  all,  every  where  intermingled,  and  their  at- 
tractions embellished  by  intervening  stretches  of  cultivated  fields,  and  rural 
villages,  and  villa  homes. 

MouHTAiNS.  The  hill  ranges  of  Canada  are  confined  entirely  to  the  lower  or 
eastern  province.  The  chief  lines  called  the  Green  Mountains  follow  a  parallel 
course  south-westerly.  They  lie  along  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  on  its  southern 
side,  extending  from  the  latitude  o^  Quebec  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  There 
is  another  and  corresponding  range  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  with  a  vary- 
ing elevation  of  about  1,000  feet.  The  Mealy  Mountains,  which  extend  to  Sand* 
wich  Bay,  rise  in  snow-capped  peaks  to  the  height  of  1,600  feet.  The  Wotdhiidt 
Mountains,  a  short,  orescent-naped  group,  lie  between  the  Gulf  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  and  Hudson's  Bay. 

RiVBBa.  Canada  has  many  noble  and  beautiful  rivers,  as  the  St.  Lawrence,  one 
of  the  great  waters  of  the  world ;  the  wild,  mountain-shored  floods  of  the 
Ottawa,  and  the  Saguenay ;  and  the  lesser  waters  of  the  Sorel  or  Riehelieu,  tiie 
St.  Francis,  the  Chaudi^re,  and  other  streams. 


The  St.  Lawrence.  This  grand  river 
which  drains  the  vast  inland  seas  of 
America,  extends  from  Lake  Ontario, 
760  miles  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence, 
and  thence  to  the  sea.  Its  entire  length 
including  the  great  chain  of  lakes  by 
which  it  is  fed,  is  not  less  than  2,200 
miles.  Ships  ascend  to  Quebec,  and 
vessels  of  600  tons  or  more  to  Mon- 
treal. Its  chief  afiBuents  are  the  Sa- 
guenay eastward,  and  the  Ottawa  on  the 
west.  The  width  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
varies  from  half  a  mile  to  four  miles ;  at 
its  mouth  it  is  100  miles  across.  It 
abounds  in  beautiful  islands,  of  which 
there  is  a  vast  group,  near  its  egress 
from  Lake  Ontario,  known  and  admired 
by  all  the  world,  as  the  **  Thousand  Isles." 

The  ThpuiMiid  blanda.  It  is  a  cu- 
rious speculation  to  the  voyager  always, 
how  his  steamer   is  to  find  its  way 


through  the  labyrinth  of  the  thousand 
isIancU,  which  stud  the  broad,  waters 
like  the  countless  tents  of  an  encamped 
army,  and  ever  and  anon  his  interest  is 
aroused  up  to  the  highest  pitch  at  the 
prospective  danger  of  the  passage  of 
some  angry  rapid.  All  the  journey 
west,  from  lake  to  lake  of  the  great 
waters,  past  islands  now  miles  in  cir- 
cuit, and  now  large  enough  only  for 
the  cottage  of  Lil^putian  lovers,  is  re- 
plete with  ever-chan^ng  pleasure. 

Montreal  and  Quebec,  the  chief  cities 
of  Canada,  are  upon  the  St.  Lawrence, 
while  Toronto  lies  on  the  shores  of  Lake 
Ontario, the  continuing  watera  westward. 

The  Ottawa  River  flows  800  miles 
to  the  St.  LawUnce,  about  40  miles  west 
of  the  city  of  Montreal,  traversing  in 
its  course  Lake  Temiscaming,  Grand 
Lake,  und  others.     Rapids  and  falli 


if 


;■> 


'^fi.- 


awrence, 
of  Lake 
estward. 
00  miles 
ilea  west 
irsing  iu 
;,  Grand 
d  falto 


CANADA. 

The  Ottawa  Biwr— Its  SonreM  and  Tribatarlaa. 


27 


greatly  impede  the  luiTigation  of  its 
waters,  but  lend  to  them  wonderiVil 
beauty.  It  is  a  wild  forest  region ;  that 
of  the  Ottawa,  but  little  occupied  here- 
tofore by  others  than  the  rude  lumber- 
men ;  though  numerous  settlements  are 
now  springing  up,  and  its  agricultural 
capacities  are  being  developed. 

The  Committee  on  Railways  of  the 
House  bf  Assembly  of  the  ProTince,  in 
its  report,  thus  speaks  of  this  river:— 

"  At  the  head  of  the  lake  the  Blanche 
River  falls  in,  coming  about  90  miles 
from  the  north.  Thirty-four  miles  farther 
down  the  lake  it  receives  the  Montreal 
River,  coming  120  from  the  north-west. 
Six  miles  lower  down,  on  the  east  or 
Lower  Canada  bank  it  receives  the  Keep- 
awa-sippi,  a  large  river  which  has  its  ori- 
gin in  a  lake  of  great  size,  hitherto  but 
eirtially  explored,  and  known  as  Lake 
eepawa.  This  lake  is  connected  with 
anouier  chain  of  irregularly  shaped 
lakes,  from  one  of  which  proceeds  the 
river  Du  Mohie,  which  enters  tiie  Otta- 
wa about  100  miles  below  the  mouth  of 
the  Eeepawa-sippi ;  the  double  discharge 
from  the  same  chain  of  lakes  in  op- 
posite directions  presents  a  phenome- 
non similar  to  the  connection  between 
the  Orinoco  and  Rio  Negro  in  South 
America.  The  Eeepawa-sippi  has  never 
been  surveyed,  but  on  a  partial  survey 
of  the  lake  from  which  it  proceeds,  it 
was  found  flowing  out  with  a  slow  and 
noiseless  current,  very  deep,  and  about 
800  feet  in  width ;  its  middle  course  is 
unknown,  but  some  rafts  of  timber 
have  been  taken  out  a  few  miles  above 
the  mouth.  It  is  stated  in  the  report 
from  which  we  quote,  that  there  is  a 
cascade  at  its  mouth  120  feet  in  height ; 
this  is  a  fable ;  the  total  descent  from 
the  lake  to  the  Ottawa  may  be  120  feet, 
but  there  is  no  fall  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river. 

"  From  the  Long  Sault  at  the  foot  of 
Lake  Temiscaming,  283  miles  above 
Bytown,  and  860  miles  from  the  mouth 
of  the  Ottawa,  down  to  Deux  Joachim 
Rapids,  at  the  head  of  the  Deep  River, 
that  is  for  89  miles,  the  Ottawa,  with 
the  exception  of  17  miles  below  the 
Long  Sault,  and  some  other  intervals, 


is  not  at  present  navigable  except  for 
canoes.  Besides  other  tributaries  in 
the  interval,  at  197  miles  from  Bytown, 
now  called  Ottawa,  it  receives  on  the 
west  side  the  Mattawan,  which  is  the 
highway  for  canoes  going^to  Lake  Hu* 
ron,  by  Lake  Nijussing.  From  the  Mat- 
tawan the  Ottawa  flows  east  by  south  to 
the  head  of  Deep  River  reach,  nine  milee 
above  which  it  receives  the  river  Da 
Moine  from  the  north. 

"  From  the  head  of  Deep  River,  •• 
this  part  of  the  Ottawa  is  called,  to  the 
foot  of  Upper  Allumette'e  Lake,  two 
miles  below  the  village  of  Pembroke, 
is  an  uninterrupted  reach  of  navigable 
water,  48  miles  in  length.  The  general 
direction  of  the  river  in  tiiS  part 
is  south-east.  The  mountains  along 
the  north  side  of  Deep  River  are  up« 
wards  of  1,000  feet  in  height,  and  the 
many  wooded  islands  of  Allumettes 
lake  render  the  scenery  of  this  part  of 
the  Ottawa  magnificent  and  exceedingly 
picturesque— &r  surpasrang  the  cele- 
brated lake  of  the  Thousand  Islands  on 
the  St.  Lawrence. 

"  Passhig  the  short  rapid  of  Allumet- 
tes, and  turning  northward,  round  the 
lower  end  of  Allumettes  Island,  which 
is  14  miles  longt  and  8  at  its  greatest 
width,  and  turning  down  south-east 
through  Ooulonge  Lake,  and  passhig 
behind  the  neariv  similar  islands  of 
Calumet,  to  the  head  cf  the  Calumet 
Falls,  the  Ottawa  presents,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  one  slight  rapid,  a  reach  of 
fiO  miles  of  navigable  water.  The 
mountains  on  the  north  side  of  Coulonge 
lake,  which  rise  apparently  to  the  height 
of  1,600  feet,  add  a  degree  of  grandeur 
to  the  scenery,  which  is  in  other  re- 
spects beautiud  and  varied.  In  the 
Upper  Allumettes  Lake,  115  miles  from 
Ottawa,  the  river  receives  from  the 
west  the  Petawawee,  one  of  its  largest 
tributaries.  This  river  is  140  miles  in 
length,  and  drains  an  area  of  2,200 
square  miles.  At  Pembroke,  9  miles 
lower  down  on  the  same  side,  an  in- 
ibrior  stream,  the  Indian  River,  also 
empties  itself  into  the  Ottawa. 

"  At  the  head  of  Lake  Coulonge,  the 
Ottawa  receives  from  the  north,  the 


\ 


is 


OAKADA. 

The  Ottowa— Olumdldre  FtUs— Bldera  Falla. 


BUck  River,  180  miles  in  length,  drain- 
ing an  area  of  1,120  milei ;  and  9  miles 
lower,  on  the  same  side,  the  river  Gou- 
longe,  vhioh  is  probablv  160  miles  in 
length,  with  a  valley  of  1,800  square 
miles. 

"  From  the  head  of  the  Calumet  Falls 
to  Portage  du  Fort,  the  head  of  the 
steamboat  navigation,  a  distance  of  8 
miles,  are  impassable  rapids.  Fifty 
mile;,  above  the  city,  the  Ottawa  re- 
oeives  on  the  west  the  Bonnech^re,  110 
miles  in  length,  draining  an  area  of  980 
miles.  Eleven  miles  lower,  it  receives 
the  Madawaska,  one  of  its  greatest 
feeders,  a  river  210  miles  in  length,  and 
draining  4,100  square  miles. 

'*  Thirty-seven  miles  above  Ottawa 
there  is  an  interruption  to  the  naviga- 
tion, caused  by  three  miles  of  rapids 
and  ftdls,  to  pass  which  a  railroad  has 
been  made.  At  the  foot  of  the  rapids, 
the  Ottawa  divides  among  islands  into 
numerous  channels,  presenting  a  most 
imposing  array  of  separate  falu. 

"  Six  miles  above  Ottawa  begin  the 
rapids  terminating  in  the  Ottawa  Ghau- 
diSre  Falls,  which,  inferior  in  impressive 
grandeur  to  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  are 
perhaps  more  permanently  interesting, 
as  presenting  greater  variety. 

*'  The  greatest  height  of  the  Ohau- 
di^re  Falls  is  about  40  feet.  Arrayed 
in  every  imaginable  variety  of  form  in 
Tast  dark  masses,  in  graceful  cascades, 
or  in  tumbling  spray,  they  have  been 
well  described  as  a  hundred  rivers  strug- 
gling for  a  passage.  Not  the  least  in- 
teresting feature  which  they  present  is 
the  Lost  Ghaudi^re,  where  a  body  of 
water  greater  in  volume  than  the 
Thames  at  London,  is  quietly  sucked 
down,  and  disappears  imder  ground. 

"  At  the  city  of  Ottawa  the  river  re- 
ceives the  Bideau  from  the  west,  run- 
ning a  course  of  116  miles,  and  drain- 
ing an  area  of  1,850  square  miles." 

The  city  of  Ottawa,  on  the  banks  of 
the -river,  is  thought  to  be  excelled  in 
the  beauty  of  its  position,  only  by  Que- 
bec, on  the  St.  Lawrence.  From  Bar- 
rack Hill  here,  the  wide  panorama  in- 
cludes the  Falls  of  the  Ghaudi^re,  the 
Suspension  Bridge,  which  connects  the 


upper  and  lower  provinces,  the  islanded 
stretch  of  the  river  above,  and  of  the 
far-away  mountain  ranges. 

Til*  HldMa  Falli,  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Rideau,  just  below  the  city  of 
Ottawa,  is  a  charming  scene. 

**  A  mile  lower  it  receives,  flrom  the 
north,  its  greatest  tributary,  the  Gati- 
neau,  which,  with  «  course  probably  of 
four  hundred  and  twenty  miles,  drains 
an  area  of  twelve  thousand  square 
miles.  For  about  two  hundred  miles  the 
upper  course  of  this  river  is  in  the  un- 
known northern  country.  At  the  far- 
thest point  surveyed,  two  hundred  and 
seventeen  miles  from  its  mouth,  the 
Qatineau  is  still  a  noble  stream,  a  thou- 
sand feet  wide,  diminished  in  depth  but 
not  in  width. 

"  Eighteen  miles  lower  down,  the 
Riviere  au  Lidvre  enters  firom  the  north, 
after  running  a  course  of  two  hundred 
and  sixty  miles  in  length,  and  draining 
an  area  of  four  thousand  one  hundred- 
miles.  Fifteen  miles  below  it,  the  Ot- 
tawa receives  the  North  and  South 
Nation  Rivers  on  either  side,  the  former 
ninety-flvo,  and  the  latter  a  hundred 
miles  in  length.  Twenty-two  railes 
further,  the  River  Rouge,  ninety  miles 
long,  enters  from  the  north.  Twenty- 
one  miles  lower,  the  Riviere  du  Nord, 
a  hundred  and  sixty  miles  in  length, 
comes  in  on  the  same  side ;  and  lastly, 
just  above  its  mouth,  it  receives  the 
River  Assumption,  which  has  a  course 
of  a  hundred  and  thirty  miles. 

"  From  Ottawa  the  river  is  navigable 
to  Grenville,  a  distance  of  fifty-eight 
miles,  where  the  rapids  that  occur  for 
twelve  miles  are  avoided  by  a  succes- 
sion of  canals.  Twenty-three  miles 
lower,  at  one  of  the  mouths  of  the  Ot- 
tawa, a  single  lock,  to  avoid  a  slight 
rapid,  gives  a  passage  into  Lake  St. 
Louis,  an  expansion  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, above  Montreal. 

**The  remaining  half  of  the  Ottawa's 
waters  find  their  way  to  the  St.  Law- 
rence, by  passing  in  two  channels,  be- 
hind the  Island  of  Montreal  and  the 
Isle  Jesus,  in  a  course  of  thirty-one 
miles.  They  are  interrupted  with  ra- 
pids, still  it  is  by  one  of  them  that  aJl 


CANADA. 


20 


Boatea  to  the  Ott«wA  ftnd  the  SegaeMj  Blrera. 


I  islanded 
ad  of  the 

le  mouth 
e  olty  of 

from  the 
the  Oati- 
■obably  of 
68,  drain* 
id  square 
miles  the 
in  the  un- 
.t  the  far- 
idred  and 
outh,  the 
n,  a  thou- 
depth  but 

lown,  the 
the  north, 
)  hundred 
d  draining 
B  hundred 
it,  the  Ot- 
md  South 
the  former 

hundred 
wo  miles 
Qcty  miles 

Twenty- 

du  Nord, 
in  length, 
md  lastly, 
jeives  the 

a  course 

naTigable 
fifty-eight 

occur  for 

a  suoocs- 

ree   miles 

of  the  Ot- 

a  slight 

Lake  St. 

St.  Law- 

Ottawa^s 

St.  Law- 
nnela,  be- 

and  the 
thirty-one 

with  ra> 
thataU 


the  Ottawa  lumber  passes  to  market. 
At  Bout  de  risle,  therefore,  the  Ottawa 
is  finally  merged  in  the  St.  Lawrence, 
a  hundred  and  thirty  miles  below  from 
the  city  of  Ottawa. 

"  The  most  prominent  characteristic 
of  the  Ottawa  is  its  great  volume.  Even 
above  the  town,  where  it  has  to  receive 
tributaries  equal  to  the  Hudson,  the 
Shannon,  the  Thames,  the  Tweed,  the 
Spey,  and  the  Clyde,  it  displays,  when 
unconfined,  a  width  of  half-a-mile  of 
strong  boiling  rapid,  and  when  at  the 
highest,  while  the  north  waters  are 
passing,  the  volume,  by  calculated  ap- 
proximation, is  i\illy  equal  to  that 
passing  Niagara,  that  is,  double  the 
common  volume  of  the  Ganges. 

"  Taking  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the 
valley  of  the  Ottawa,  we  see  spread  out 
before  us  a  country  equal  to  eight  times 
the  State  of  Vermont,  or  ten  times  that 
of  Massachusetts,  with  its  great  artery, 
the  Ottawa,  curving  through  it,  resem- 
bling the  Rhine  in  length  of  course,  and 
the  Danube  in  magnitude. 

**  This  immense  region  overlies  a 
variety  of  geological  formations,  and 
presents  all  their  characteristic  features, 
from  the  level  uniform  surface  of  the 
Silurian  system,  which  prevails  along  a 
great  extent  of  the  Ottawa,  to  the  rug- 
ged and  romantic  ridges  in  the  meta- 
morphic  and  primitive  formations  which 
stretch  far  away  to  the  north  and  north- 
west. 

"As  far  as  our  knowledge  of  the 
country  extends,  we  find  the  greater 
part  of  it  covered  with  a  luxuriant 
growth  of  red  and  white  pine  timber, 
making  the  most  valuable  forests  in  the 
world,  abundantly  intersected  with  large 
rivers,  fitted  to  convey  the  timber  to 
market,  when  manufactured. 

**  The  remaining  portion  of  it,  if  not 
so  valuably  wooded,  presents  a  very  ex- 
tensive and  advantageous  field  for  set- 
tlement. Apart  from  the  numerous 
townships  already  surveyed  and  partly 
settled,  and  the  large  tracts  of  good 
land  interspersed  throughout  the  tim- 
ber country,  the  great  region  on  the 
upper  course  of  the  western  tributaries 
pf  the  Ottawa,  behind   the  red  pine 


country,  exceeds  the  State  of  New 
Hampshire  in  extent,  with  an  equal 
climate  and  superior  soil.  It  is  gene- 
rally a  beautify,  undulating  country, 
wooded  with  a  rich  growth  of  maple, 
beech,  birch,  elm,  Ac,  and  watered 
with  lakes  and  streams,  affording  nu« 
merous  mill-sites,  and  abounding  in  fish. 
Flanking  on  the  one  side  the  luAibering 
country,  which  presents  an  excellent 
niarket  for  produce,  and  adjoining  Lake 
Huron  on  the  other,  the  situation, 
though  comparatively  inland^  is  highly 
advantageous.  In  the  diversity  of  re- 
sources the  Ottawa  country  presents 
unusual  attractions  alike  to  agnoultural 
and  commercial  enterprise.**. 

Rcutetfnm  Montreal  up  the  Ottawa*' 
— Steamers  run  daily,  dunng  the  sum- 
mer months,  between  Montreal  and 
Ottawa,  and  Kingston  and  Ottawa,  via 
the  Rideau  OanoL  Above  Ottawa  the 
traveller  may  proceed  by  carriage  or 
by  stage,  nine  miles,  to  the  village  of 
Aylraer,  and  thence  by  steamer  to  the 
Chats;  thence  by  railway,  two  miles; 
then  agun  by  steamer  to  the  Portage 
du  Fort :  now,  wagons  for  awhile,  and 
then  agidn  a  steamer  to  Pembroke,  and 
yet  another  from  thence  to  Deux  Joa- 
cbims ;  afterwards  he  must  canoe  it. 

The  Sagneiuiy.  The  journey  up 
this  beautiful  river  may  be  made  by 
steamer  from  Quebec  semi-weekly ;  and, 
perhaps,  by  the  coming  summer  (1867), 
daily.  The  round  trip,  from  Quebec 
and  back,  will  occupy  about  three  days, 
at  a  cost  of  |l2.  The  course  of  the 
Saguenay  is  between  lofty  and  precip- 
itous heights;  and,  in  its  upper  part, 
amid  rushing  cataracts — 100  miles  from 
Lake  St.  John  to  the  St.  Lawrence, 
which  it  enters  120  miles  below  Quebec. 
Large  ships  ascend  60  miles. 

In  the  4rip  from  Quebec  to  the  Sa- 
guenay beauties  there,  are  many  inter- 
esting points  to  be  noted  in  the  pre- 
ceding journey  of  120  miles  down  the 
St.  Lawrence ;  the  ancient-looking  set- 
tlements on  its  banks,  and  the  not  less 
picturesque  habitant  of  the  country. 
A  day's  sail  lands  the  voyager  at 
River  du  Loup,  where  he  passes  the 
night  on  board  his  steamer,  waiting  for 


80 


OAHAOA. 


OharMtcrittlet  of  th«  SacacMj. 


The  Month  of  Ui«  Bagneiuy. 


the  following  morning  to  resume  his 
Journey. 

The  Saguenay  is  a  perfectly  straight 
river,  with  grand  precipices  on  either 
side.  It  has  neither  windings  nor  pro- 
jecting bluffs,  or  sloping  banks  or  sandy 
shores  like  other  rivers,  nor  is  its  stem, 
itranee  aspect  varied  by  either  village 
or  viUa.  *'  It  is,"  says  a  voyager  thither, 
"as  if  the  mountain  range  had  been 
olefk  asunder,  leaving  a  horrid  gulf  of 
60  miles  in  length  an^  4,000  feet  in 
depth,  through  the  grey  mica  schist, 
and  still  looldng  fresh  and  new.  One 
thousand  five  hundred  feet  of  this  is 
perpendicular  cliff,  often  too  steep  and 
solid  for  the  hemlock  or  dwarf-oak  to 
find  root ;  in  which  case,  being  covered 
with  colored  lichens  and  moss,  their 
fresh-looking  fractures  often  appear,  in 
riiape  and  color,  like  painted  fans,  and 
are  called  the  pictured  rocks.  But  those 
parts  more  slanting  are  thickly  covered 
with  stunted  trees,  spruce,  and  maple, 
and  birch  growing  wherever  they  can 
find  crevices  to  extract  nourishment; 
and  the  bare  roots  of  the  oak,  grasping 
the  rock,  have  a  resemblance  to  gigantic 
claws.    The  bases  of  these  clifb  ue  far 


under  water,  to  an  unknown  depth. 
For  many  miles  from  its  mouth  no 
soundings  have  been  obtained  with  two 
thousand  feet  of  line ;  and,  for  the  en* 
tire  distance  of  60  miles,  until  you  reach 
Ha  Ha  Bay,  the  largest  ships  can  sidl, 
without  obstruction  from  banks  or 
shoals,  and,  on  reaching  the  extremity 
of  the  bay,  can  drop  their  anchor  in  80 
fathoms.  The  view  up  this  river  is  Bin> 
gular  in  many  respects ;  hour  after  hour, 
as  you  sail  along,  precipice  after  pre« 
cipice  unfolds  itself  to  view,  as  in  a 
moving  panorama ;  and  you  sometimes 
forget  the  size  and  height  of  the  objects 
you  are  contemplating,  until -reminded 
by  seeing  a  ship  of  one  thousand  tons 
lying  like  a  small  pinnace  under  the 
towering  cliff  to  which  she  is  moored ; 
for,  even  in  these  remote  and  desolate 
re^ons,  industry  is  at  work,  and,  al> 
though  you  cannot  much  <Uscem  it, 
saw-mills  have  been  built  on  some  of 
the  tributary  streams  which  fall  into 
the  Saguenay.  But  what  strikes  one 
most,  is  the  absence  of  beach  or  strand, 
for  except  in  a  few  places  where  moun- 
tun  torrents,  rushing  through  gloomy 
ravines,  have  washed  down  the  detrittu 


OAVADA. 


SI 


Tb«  BagnaBaj  Blrar— WaUriii(>PlMM. 


wn  depth. 

mouth  no 

1  with  two 

or  the  en* 

you  reach 

can  aail, 

banks   or 

eztremitj 

shor  in  80 

ver  ia  ain- 

fterhour, 

ifter  pre- 

aa  in  a 

ometimea 

le  objecta 

reminded 

and  tona 

nder  the 

moored ; 

desolate 

and,  al- 

iBoem  it, 

Bome  of 

fall  into 

kes  one 

r  strand, 

e  moun- 

gloemj 

aetriitu 


of  the  hiUs,  and  formed  some  alluTial 
land  at  the  mouth,  no  coves,  nor  creeks, 
nor  projectinff  rooks  are  seen  in  which 
a  boat  could  End  ahelter,  oi*  any  footing 
be  obtained.  The  oharact  riatic  is  a 
steep  wall  of  rook  rlsinc  abruptly  from 
the  water ;  a  dark  and  desolate  region, 
where  all  is  cold  and  sloomy ;  the 
mountaina  hidden  with  driTing  mbt, 
the  water  black  aa  inic,  and  cola  aa  ice. 
No  duoka  nor  aea-guHs  sitting  on  the 
water,  or  screaming  for  their  prey.  No 
hawka  nor  eagles  soaring  overhead,  al> 
though  there  ia  abundance  of  what 
might  be  called  '  Eagle  Olitfa.*  No  deer 
coming  down  to  drink  at  the  streams, 
no  squirrels  nor  birds  to  be  seen  anibng 
the  trees.  No  fly  on  the  water,  nor 
swallow  akimmiag  orer  the  surfiMse.  It 
reminda  you  of 

*That  lake  whoM  gtAomy  tbora 
Skj-lark  imtw  warblM  o'ar.* 

Two  living  thinga  you  may  see,  but 
these  are  cold-blooded  animaUi;  you 
may  see  the  cold  seal,  spreading  him- 
self upon  his  clammy  rock,  watching 
for  hia  prey.  Tou  may  see  him  make 
his  sullen  plunge  into  the  water,  like  to 
the  Styx  for  blackness.  You  may  see 
him  emerge  asain,  shaking  his  smooth 
oily  sides,  and  holding  a  huge  living 
salmon  writhing  in  his  teeth ;  and  you 
may  envy  the  fellow  faring  so  sumptu- 
ously, until  you  recollect  that  you  have 
just  had  a  hearty  breakfast  of  fresh 
grilled  salmon  yourself,  and  that  you 
enjoyed  it  as  much  as  your  fellow  crea- 
ture ia  now  enjoying  his  raw  morsel. 
And  this  is  all  you  see  for  the  first 
twenty  miles,  save  the  ancient  settle- 
ment of  Tadousao  at  the  entrance,  and 
the  pretty  cove  of  L'Ance  a  rEau, 
which  is  a  fishing  station. 

"  Now  you  reach  Cape  Etemite,  Cape 
Trinit6,  and  many  other  overhanging 
cliffs,  remarkable  for  having  such  clean 
fractures,  seldom  equalled  for  boldness 
and  effect,  which  create  constant  ap- 
prehensions of  danger,  even  in  a  calm, 
but  if  you  happen  to  be  caught  in  a 
thunder-storm,  the  roar,  and  darkness, 
and  flashes  of  lightning  are  perfectly 
frightfUL ,  At  last  you  temunate  your 


voyage  at  Ha  Ha  Bay ;  that  is,  smiling 
or  laughing  bay,  in  the  Indian  tongue, 
for  you  are  perfectly  charmed  and  re- 
lieved  to  arrive  at  a  beautif\il  spot, 
where  you  have  sloping  banka,  a  pebbly 
shore,  boats,  and  wherries,  and  vessejs 
riding  at  anchor ;  birds  and  animals,  a 
village,  a  church,  French  Canadians, 
and  Scottiah  Highlandera.** 

After  duly  enjoying  the  pleasant "  let 
down  "  from  the  high  tragic  tone  of  the 
landacape  you  have  been  so  long  gating 
upon  and  wondering  at,  formed  in  the 
comparatively  pastoral  character  of  this 
upper  region  of  the  Ottawa,  you  return 
to  your  steamer,  and  descending  the 
stem  and  solemn  river,  come  again,  at 
night-fkll,  to  the  River  du  Loup,  from 
whence  you  started  in  the  morning. 
This  is  the  second  day  of  your  journey, 
,and  on  the  third  you  are  back  once 
more  in  Quebec. 

8PBIN08. 

Hm  Oaladonla  Spuinn,  a  place  of 
much  resort,  are  at  tne  village  of  Cale- 
donia, 72  mUes  flrom  Montreal.  Leave 
Montreal  by  the  Lachine  railway,  and 
take  the  steamer  to  Carillon.  At  Point 
Fortune,  opposite  Carillon,  on  the  other 
side  of  the  Ottawa,  take  stage  to  the 
springs,  arriving  the  same  evening. 
Fare  generally  |2.26.  Board  at  the 
springs  from  $1.26  to  76  cents  per  day. 

PlantagmMt  Springa.  From  Mon- 
treal to  Point  Fortune,  as  in  the  route 
to  the  Caledonia  springs;  and  thence 
by  stage,  arriving  same  evening.  Dis- 
tance 88  miles.  Fare  about  $4.  The 
consumption  of  the  "  Plantagenet  water" 
is  said  to  be  very  great. 

Tha  St.  Xieon  Spring!  are  at  the 
village  of  St.  Leon,  on  the  Riviere  du 
Loup,  between  Montreal  and  Quebec; 
26  miles  by  stage  from  Three  Rivers, 
a  landing  of  the  St.  Lawrence  steam- 
ers. 

St.  Oathazlne*!,  Canada  West,  on 
the  Great  Western  Rulway,  11  miles 
from  Niagara  Falls,  and  82  miles  from 
Hamilton.  See  St.  Catharine's  in  route 
from  Montreal  to  Niagara  via  the  SL 
Lawrence. 


\ 


&2 


CANADA. 


OB8oade»—BaiIwa7S— Montreal. 


WATEBFALLS  m  CANADA. 

Mlaganu  See  chapter  on  the  state 
of  New  York! 

Falls  of  Montmoreiioi.  See  Qoiebec. 

The  Ohaudiere  Falls  on  the  Otta- 
wa.   See  Ottawa  river. 

The  Ohaudiere  Falls,  Quebec.  See 
Oity  of  Quebec. 

The  Ridean  Falls.  See  Ottawa 
river. 

The  Falls  of  Shawanegan  are  on 
the  river  St.,  Maurice,  26  miles  from 
Thrte  Rivers,  on  the  St.  Lawrence 
river,  between  Montreal  and  Quebec. 
The  St.  Maurice,  186  feet  in  breadth  at 
this  point,  makes  p  perpendicular  de- 
scent o£  about  200  feet.  The  imposing 
character  of  this  scene  is,  as  yet,  but 
little  known.  Between  the  Falls  and 
the  town  of  Three  Bivers,  the  St. 
Maurice  affords  excellent  fishing. 

St.  Anneli  Falls  are  24  miles  belpw 
Quebec.    See  Quebec. 

.  RAILWAYS. 

The  Orand  Trunk  connects  Montreal 
with  Quebec,  and  each  with  Portland  in 
Maine.  Froilii  Montreal  it  follows  the 
upper  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and 
of  Lrice  Ontario  to  Toronto,  and  thence 
continues  westward,  across  the  peninsu- 
la of  Canada  West,  to  the  State  of  Mi- 
chigan, at  Port  Samia,  on  the  southern 
extremity  of  Lake  Huron.  The  western 
extremity  of  the  route  is  not  yet  coni- 
ideted.  It  connects  with  routes  to  Ni- 
a^ra  Falls,  with  the  line  of  the  Great 
Western  Railway,  and  with  the  routes 
Mississippiwards. 

The  Oreat  Western  Railway  extends 
fh>m  Niamra  Falls,  229  miles  west  to 
Detroit,  Michigan,  connecting  with  the 
Michigan  central  route  for  Chicago,  &e. 

The  'Montreal  and  New  York  road 
extends  from  Montreal  67  miles  to 
Flattsburg,  and  is  a  part  of  the  route 
from  Montreal  to  New  York. 

The  Champlain  and  St.  Lawrence  ex- 
tends from  Montreal,  44  railt::^,to  Rouse's 
Point  on  Lake  Champlain,  thence  to 
New  York,  Boston,  dec. 

The  Ontario,  Simcoe,  and  Huron,  ex- 
tends 97  miles  from  Toronto  on  Lake 
Ontario  to  Collingwood  on  the  Geor- 


gian Bay,  Lake  Huron.  A  part  of  a 
pleasant  route  from  New  York  to  Lake 
Superior. 

The  Ottawa  and  Prescott  Railway  ex- 
tends from  Prescott  (opposite  Ogdens- 
burg)  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  64  miles  to 
Ottawa,  on  the  Ottawa  river. 

The  Hamilton  and  Toronto  road  ex- 
tends  38  miles  from  Toronto  to  Ham- 
ilton, connecting  the  Grand  Tnmk  and 
the  Great  Western  routes. 

The  Coburg  and  Pieterboro'  Railway, 
28  miles  from  Peterboro'  to  Coburg,  on 
the  line  of  the  Grand  Trunk,  between 
Montreal  and  Toronto. 

Many  other  routes  are  either  ip  pro- 
gress, or  are  proposed,  among  them 
one  along  the  upper  shore  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  from  Montreal  to  Quebec. 

MONTBSAL. 

Montreal  may  be  reached  daily  from 
New  York  in  from  16  to  18  hours,  by 
the  Hudson  river  or  Harlem  railway  to 
Albany ;  thence  by  railway  to  White- 
hall ;  thence  by  steamer  on  Lake  Cham- 
plain, or  railway  through  Vermont  to 
Plattsburg;  thence  by  the  Montreal 
and  New  York  road.  From  Boston  via 
Albany,  or  other  routes  to  Lake  Cham- 
plain, kc.;  or,  via  Portland  and  the 
Grand  Trunk  railway. 

Hotels.  The  Doncgana,  Notre-Dame 
street;  the  St.  Lawrence,  Great  *&t. 
James  street,  a"fine  house,  centrally  lo- 
cated; the  Ottawa,  Great  St.  James 
street ;  and  the  Montreal  House,  Cus- 
ton  House  square,  opposite  the  Steam- 
boat Wharf.  Besides  these  leading  es- 
tablishments, there  are  ma^  other 
comfortable  houses,  as  the  Franklin, 
William  street;  the  American,  St. 
Henry  street ;  the  Canada,  St.  Cbbriel 
street;  the  St.  Nicholas,  in  Jacques 
Cartier  square,  &c.  The  Metropolitan 
Saloon,  Notre-Dame  street;  O'Meara's 
Place  d'Armes ;  and  the  Shakespeare 
Inn,  St.  Francois  Xavier  street,  are  ex- 
cellent caf£s. 

Montreal,  the  most  populous  city  in 
British  North  America,  is  picturesquely, 
situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Royal  Moun-' 
tain,  from  which  it  takes  its  name,  upon 
a    large  island  at  the  confluence  of 


OAKADA. 


99 


The  City  of  MontreaL 


lespeare 
are  ex- 


MantnaL 


the  Ottawa  and  St.  Lawrence,  i%liicb, 
both  in  fertility  and.cnltiTatjon,  ib  con- 
sidered the  garden  of  Canada  East. 
The  main  branch  of  the  Ottawa,  which 
is  the  timber  highway  to  Quebec,  pa.h^.?e8 
north  of  Montreal  Island,  and  enters 
the  St.  Lawrence  about  18  miles  below 
the  city ;. about  one*third  of  its  waters 
are,  however,  discharged  into  Lake  St. 
Louis,  and  joining  but  not  mingling 
at  Caughnawaga,  the  two  distinct  bodies 
pass  over  the  Sault  St.  Louis  and  the 
Lachine  Rapids— the  dark  waters  of  the 
Ottawa  washing  the  quays  of  Montreal, 
while  the  blue  St.  Lawrence  occupies 
the  other  shore.  Nov  do  they  merge 
their  distinctive  character  until  they  are 
several  miles  below  Montreal.  The 
quays  of  Montreal  are  unsurpassed  by 
those  of  any  city  in  America ;  built  of 
solid  limestone,  and  uniting  with  the 
locks  and  cut  stone  wharves  of  the  La- 
chine  Canal,  they  present  for  several 
miles  a  display  of  continuous  masonry, 
which  has  few  parallels.  Unlike  the 
levees  of  the  Ohio  and  the  Mississippi, 
no  unsightly  warehouses  disfigure  the 
2* 


river  ride.  A  broad  terrace,  faced  wHb 
gray  limestone,  the  parapets  of  which 
are  surmounted  with  a  substantial  iron 
rsuling,  divides  the  city  from  the  river 
throughout  its  whole  extent 

The  people  in  Montreal  number 
nearly  75,0004  and  the  population 
steadily  increaring.  The  houses  in  the 
suburbs  are  handisomely  built  in  the 
modem  style,  and  mostly  inhabited  by 
the  principal  merchants.  Including  its 
suburbs,  of  which  it  has  several,  the 
city  stretches  along  the  riv^r  for  two 
miles  from  8.  w.  to  v.  >.,  and,  for  some 
distance,  extends  between  ode  and  two 
miles  inland.  It  was  formerly  surround* 
ed  by  a  battlemented  wall;  but  this 
having  fallen  into  decay,  it  is  now  en- 
tirely open.  Paul  street,  the  chief  com- 
mercial thoroughfare,  extends  oJong 
the  river  the  whole  length  of  the  city. 
Notre-Dame-street  is  the  fashionable 
promenade. 

The  French  Cathedral.  Of  the  pub- 
lic buildings,  the  most  remarkable  is 
the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  Place 
d'Armes,  constructed   in  the  Oothie 


\ 


H 


CANADA. 

MontTMl— PabUe  EdifioM. 


style,  with  a  l^ugth  of  265^  feet,  and  a 
breadth  of  1341  feet.  Ithas  six  towers, 
of  which  three  belonging  to  the  main 
firont  are  220  feet  high.  The  yiew  from 
these  towers — embracing  the  city  and 
its  suburbs,  the  river,  and  the  surround- 
ing  country — ^is  exceedingly  beautifiil. 
The  principal  window  of  the  Cathe- 
dral is  64  feet  high  and  82  broad.  Of 
the  Tastness  of  the  interior  of  this 
edifice  j  an  idea  may  be  formed  from  the 
fact  that  it  is  capable  of  accommodating 
from  10,000  to.  12,000  persons.  This 
immense  assembly  may,  by  numerous 
outlets,  disperse  in  fire  or  six  minutes. 

!I%e  Seminary  of  St.  Suhiee,  ad- 
Joiidng  the  Cathednl^  is  182  feet  long, 
and  29  deep,  and  is  surrounded  by  spa- 
dous  gardens. 

Tht  Bank  of  Montreal  and  the  Oity 
Bakky  the  first  a  fine  example'  of  Co- 
rinthian architecture,  are  on  the  op- 
posite sides  of  the  square,  or  Place 
d'Armes. 

St,  PatricV*  Cffiiureh  (Oatholio)  oc- 


cupies a  commanding  position  at  th* 
west  end  of  Lagauchetiere  street. 

The  Bidutp^e  Church  (Catholic)  is  a 
yery  elegant  structure  m  St.  Dennis 
street. 

The  remdning  Catholic  churches  are 
the  Recollet,  in  Notre  Dame  street,  the 
Bonsecours,  near  the  large  market,  and 
the  St.  Mary's,  in  Orififtntown.  There 
are  also  chapels  attached  to  all  the 
Nunneries,  in  some  pf  which  excellent 
pictures  may  be  seen. 

Nunntrie*.  The  Qrey  Nuns,  in 
Foundling  street,  was  founded,  in  1692, 
for  the  care  cf  lunatics  and  children. 
The  Hotel  Dieu  was  established  in  1644, 
for  the  sick  generally.  The  JJUack,  or 
congr^^tionu  nunnery,  in  Notre  Dame 
street,  dates  from  1669.  The  Sster- 
hood,  at  this  third  and  last  of  the  con- 
yentual  establbhments  of  Montreal, 
deyote  themselyes  to  the  education  of 
young  persons  of  their  own  sex. 

The  stranger  dedrous  of  yis|ting 
either  of  the  nunneries  should  aii^y 
to  the  Lady  Superior  for  admission^ 
which  is  seldom  refused. 

The  Protestant  churches  worthy  of 
notice  are  St.  Andrew's  Church,  in  Bever 
Hall,  a  beautiful  specimen  of  Qothio 
architecture,  being  a  close  imitation  of 
Salisbury  Cathedral,  in  England,  though 
of  course  on  a  greatly  reduced  scale. 
This,  with  St.  Pavd's  Church,  in  St.  Helen 
street,  are  in  eonnection  with  the  'Es- 
tablished Church  of  Scotland.  TheEpia- 
copslian  churches  are,  the  Cathedral,  or 
Christ's  Church,  in  Notre  Dame  street,  St 
George's  Church,  in  St.  Joseph  street,  Sb 
Stephen's,  in  GriflOntown,  Trimty,  in  St. 
Paul  street,  and  St.  Thomas',  in  St.  Mary 
street.  Various  other  denominations  of 
Christians  have  churches — ^the  Wesley- 
ans,  a  large  and  yery  handsome  build- 
ing, in  St.  James'  street,  and  also  others 
in  Griffintowa  and  Montcalm  street ; 
the  Independents,  two,  one  in  Gosford 
street,  and  one  in  Badegonde  street. 
This  last  was  the  scene  of  the  sad  riot 
and  loss  of  life  on  the  occasion  of 
Gavazzi's  lecture  in  1852.  The  Free 
Church  has  also  two  places  of  worship, 
one  in  CotA  street,  and  one  in  St. 
Gabriel  street;  besides  these,  there  are 


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CSAKADA. 


86 


The  OUj  of  Qaeb6«. 


tiie  American  and  the  United  Presb;- 
teriaUf  the  Baptist,  and  the  Unitarian 
Ohurohes;  a  small  Jewish  Synagogue, 
the  last  named  being  classical  in  de- 
lagn. 

Pirectly  opposite  the  city  is  the  wharf 
of  the  New  Tork  and  St.  Lawrence  Rail- 
way Company.  Below  Nan*a  Island  are 
seen  the  gigantic  piers  of  the  Tabular 
Bridge,  a  wondernil  structure,  which 
is  to  span  the  great  St.  Lawrence. 

ITu  Bonteeoura  Market  is  an  impos- 
ing Doric  ecUfice,  erected  at  a  cost  of 
$280,000.  In  one  of  the  upper  stories 
ue  the  Offices  of  the  Corporation  and 
Council  Chamber,  and  a  concert  or 
baU-room  capable  of  seating  4,000 
people.  The  view  from  the  dome  of 
this  structure,  overiooking  the  river  and 
St.  Helen's  Isle,  are  well  worth  the 
seeing. 

At  the  head  of  Place  Jacques  Oartier 
there  is  a  column  erected  to  the  mem* 
cry  of  the  naval  hero.  Lord  Nelson. 

The  Court  Souse  is  one  of  the  most 
striking  of  the  architectural  specialities 
of  the  city.  * 

The  Fott  Offtee  is  in  Great  James* 
street. 

The  Custom  House  is  a  neat  bnildii  g 
on  the  site  of  an  old  market-place,  be- 
tween St.  Paul  street  and  the  river. 

The  Merehants^  Exchange  and  Bead- 
ing-Room,  ure  in  St.  Sacrament  street. 
The  latter  is  a  laree  and  comfortable 
room,  well  supplied  with  newspapers 
and  perio^cals,  English  and  American, 
all  at  the  service  of  the  stranger,  when 
properly  introduced. 

The  General  Hospital  and  8t.  Pat- 
rick's are  in  Dorchester  street;  the 
latter,  however,  at  the  west  end  of  the 
town. 

JTOilPs  College  is  beautiftdly  ritu- 
ated  at  the  base  of  the  mountain.  The 
ffigh  School  department  of  the  college 
is  in  Belmont  street. 

The  city  also  possesses  an  English 
University,  chartered  in  1821 ;  and 
many  other  institutions  for  the  promo- 
tion of  learning— IVench  and  English 
•emhiaries,  a  roval  grammar-school, 
with  parochial,  umon,  nationH,  Sunday, 
•ad  other  public  schools.    It  has  nu- 


merous societies  for  the  advancement 
of  reli^on,  sdenee,  and  industry ;  and  , 
several  public  libraries.  ' 

The  Water -Worke,  a  mile  or  so  from 
the  city,  are  extremely  interesting  for 
their  own  sake,  and  for  the  fine  view 
of  the  neighborhood  to  be  seen  thence. 

3%«  Jftuirf  Jto^al  Cemeterg  is  two 
miles  fi*Om  the  dty,  on  the  mae&Uim 
slope  of  the  mountuni'  Froili  the  lUgh 
roaid  round  its  base,  a  broad  atenoe 
through  the  shaded  hill-side  gradually 
ascends  io  tUs  feasant  spot. 

There  are  other  romantic  biwylng- 
anroun^  both  of  tiie  OathoUc  and  the 
Protestuii  po^lathm,  in  the  vidi^y  of 
Montreal,  jaxA  other  scenies  which  the 
visitw  Should  enjoy— pleasant  rides  afl 
•bottt^ifOttnd  themoutitun  and  by  the 
riv«r,  before  he  bids  good-bye  to  the 
Queen  Qty  of  Canada. 

Qiebeo  may  be  pleasantly  ^Mched 
from  K««r  iTorkt  via  Boston  to  P<»«- 
laad^  Ifaiiie^  uid  thence  244  miles  by 
the  Glwitf  Traah  Bulway,  total  dis- 
tatice,  by  this  route,  from  New  Tork  to 
Quebec,  664  miles ;  or,  from  New  York 
by  the  Hudson  Itiver  Railway  or  steam- 
bofits;  or  by  the  Harlem  Railway  to 
Albany,  thence  to  Whitehall,  thence  on 
Lake  Cuiam{dlain  to  Plattsburg,  thence 
by  the  Montreal  and  New  Tork  Rail- 
way to  Montreal,  and  from  Montreal  by 
steamer  down  the  St  Lawrence,  or  by 
the  Qrand  Trunk  Railway.  Distance 
by  railway,  from  Montreal  to  Quebec, 
168  miles.  There  are  other  railwav 
routes  from  Boston  to  Quebec,  via  Al- 
bany, or  via  the  Vermont  lines  to  Lake 
Champlain  and  Montreal. 

Hotels.  Russell,  Palace  street,  Up- 
per Town;  Swords*,  comer  of  Halm- 
mand  and  St.  Louis  streets,  U.  T. ; 
City  Hotel,  1,  Garden  street,  U.  T.; 
Ottawa,  4  Sadlt  au  Chatelot  street,  L.T. ; 
Lamb's,  comer  of  St.  Joseph  and  Cor- 
rillard  streets,  U.  T. ;  London  Coffee 
House,  Cul  de  Sac  street,  L.  T. ;  Man- 
mon  House,  St.  George's  street,  U.  T. ; 
Melrose  Hotel,  Lower  Town  Market- 
place, &c. 

Quebec  is  tiie  capital  of  United  Can- 


\ 


99 


CANADA. 

Qaebeo— FabUo  Bnlldings. 


adftf  and,  after  Montreal,   the    most 

nulous  city  in  British  North  America, 
i  upon  the  left  bank  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence river,  and  some  840  miles  from 
the  Ocean. 

The  city  was  founded  in  1608,  by  the 
geographer,  Ghampkin.  It  fell  into  the 
possession  of  the  British  in  1619,  but  was 
restored  three  years  later.  The  English 
made  an  unsuccefsful  attempt  to  regain 
possession  in  1690,  but  it  did  not  finally 
come  iqto  their  hands  until  taken  by 
General  Wolfe,  in  1769. 

The  city  is  cUvided  into  two  sections, 
called  the  Upper  and  the  Lower  Towns ; 
the  Upper  Town  occupying  the  highest 
part  of  the  promontory,' which  is  sur- 
rounded by  strong  walls  and  other  for* 
tifications ;  and  the  Lower  Toiin,  being 
built  around  the  base  of  Gape  Diamohd. 
The  latter  is  the  business  quarter. 

7%«  Citadel,  in  the  Upper  Team, 
crowning  the  summit  of  Gape  Diamond, 
covers  about  40  acres  with  its  numerous 
buildings.  Its  impregnable  position 
makes  it  perhaps  the  strongest  fortress 
on  this  continent ;  and  the  name  of  the 
*' Gibraltar  of  America"  has  been  often 
^Ten  to  it  not  inaptly.  The  walls  of 
the^  Gitadel  are  entered  by  five  gates. 
That,  called  the  Palace  Gate,  leads  to 
the  Ashley  Barracks,  which  have  accom- 
modation for  2,000  troops.  The  St. 
Louis  Gate,  on  the  south-west,  mes 


access  to  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  the 
scene  of  Wolfe's  victory  and  death,  in 
1769,  and  of  the  death  of  Montgomery, 
in  December,  1776.  The  Prescott  Gate 
is  the  only  entrance  on  the  St.  Lawrence 
side  of  the  fortress. 

The  view  from  the  Gitadel  b  remark- 
ably  fine,  taking  in,  as  it  does,  the  op- 
posite banks  of  the  great  river  for 
nearly  half  a  hundred  miles  up  and 
down.  The  promenade  here,  on  the 
ramparts  above  the  esplanade,  is  charm- 
ing. Below,  on  the  walk,  between  the 
gardens  of  the  castle,  is  an  obelisk  to 
the  memory  of  Wolfe  and  Montcalm. 

The  Parliament  Home,  Among  the 
chief  public  edifices  of  Quebec  is  the 
New  Parliament  House,  upon  the  site 
of  the  former  building  destroyed  by 
fire  in  1864. 

The  Rmnan  Catholic  Cathedral  was 
erected  under  the  anspices  of  the  first 
Bishop  of  Quebec,  and  was  consecrated 
in  1666.  It  is  216  feet  long,  and  80 
feet  in  breadth. 

I%e  Ursuline  Convent  and  the  Chureh 
of  St.  Uremia  are  agreeable  build- 
ings, encompassed  by  pleasant  gar- 
dens. This  establishment  was  founded 
in  1689,.  and  holds  a  high  position 
in  the  public  esteem.  It  contains  a 
Superior,  fifty  nuns,  and  six  novices, 
who  give  instruction  in  reading,  writing, 
and  needle-work.     The  convent  was 


' 


cnW  % 


ru. 


TlM  Gltadd,  Qmbeo. 


CANADA. 


ST 


Plaina  of  Abnliun>-Wolf«'s  Gave— Montmoren3i. 


destroyed  by  fire  in  1660,  and  again  in 
1686.  Tlie  remdns  of  the  Marquis  de 
Montcalm  are  buried  here. 

IHe  Artillery  Bamtcka  form  a  range 
of  stone  buildings  600  feet  in  length. 

Durham  Terrace  is  the  site  of  the 
old  castle  of  St.  Louis,  which  was  en- 
^fely  consumed  by  fire  in  1884. 

The  English  Protettant  Cathedral, 
consecrated  in  1804,  is  one  of  the  finest 
modern  edifices  of  the  city. 

8t.  Andrew^e  Churchy  in  St.  Anne 
street,  is  in  connection  with  the  Scotch 
Establishment.  The  Methodists  have  a 
chapel  in  St.  Stanislaus's  street,  and  an- 
other in  St.  Louis  suburb,  called  the 
Centenary  GhapeL 

Th«  ZiOwwr  Tomi.  The  passage 
from  the  Upper  to  the  Lower  Town  is  by 
Mountain  street,  though  foot  passengers 
take  the  shorter  way  known  as  the 
Break-neck  Stairs.  There  will  be  found 
the  Exchange,  th«  Banks,'  and  other 
commercial  estabUshments. 

The  Plains  of  ▲faraham  may  be 
reached  via  the  St.  Louis  Qate,  and  the 
counterscarp  on  the  left,  leading  to  the 
glacis  of  the  citadel ;  hence  towards  the 
right ;  approaching  one  of  the  Martello 
Towers,  where  a  fine  view  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence opens.  A  little  beyond,  up  the 
^ght  bank,  is  the  spot  where  General 
Wolfe  fell  on  the  famous  historic  ground 
of  the  Plains  of  Abraham.  It  is  the 
highest  ground,  and  is  surroimded  by 
wooden  fences.  Within  an  enclosure 
lower  down  is  a  stone  well,  from 
which  water  was  brought  to  the  dying 
hero. 

Wolfe*!  Oavie^  the  spot  where  Mimt- 
gomery  was  killed,  and  other  scenes, 
telling  tales  of  the  memorable  past.  Will 
be  pointed  out  to  the  traveUer  in  this 
neighborhood. 

■nio  Mount  Baraum  Oametary  is 
about  three  miles  from  the  city,  on  the 
south  side  of  the  St.  Louis  Road.    1%e 

Sounds  are  82  aorM  in  extent,  sloping 
■egularly  but  beautifully  down  the 
precipices  which  overhang  the  St.  Law- 
rence. They  were  laid  out  by  the  Ute 
Major  Douglass,  of  the  U.  S.  Sin^- 
neers,  who  had  previously  displayed 
his  skill  and   taste  in    the   an-ange- 


ments  of    the  Greenwood  Cemetery, 
near  New  York. 

Zrfnretta.  To  see  Lorette  may  be 
made  the  motive  of  an  aereeable  ex- 
cursion from  Quebec,  following  the 
banks  of  the  St.  Charles. 

Ziako  St.  Oharlaa  is  four  miles  long, 
and  one  broad.  It  is  divided  by  pro- 
jecting ledges  into  two  parts.  It  is^a 
delightful  spot,  in  its  natural  attractions, 
and  in  the  fine  sport  it  afibrds  to  the 
angler. 

TIm  Falla  of  Montmorenoi,  eight 
miles  distant,  are  among  the  chief  de- 
lights of  the  vicinage  of  Quebec.  The 
river  here  is  60  feet  wide,  and  the  de- 
scent of  the  torrent  260  feet. 

"The  effect  of  the  view  of  these 
falls  upon  the  bejiiolder  is  most  delight- 
ful. The  river,  at  some  distance,  seems 
suspended  in  the  air,  in  a  sheet  of  bil- 
lowy foam,  and  contrasted,  as  it  is, 
with  the  black  frowning  abyss  into 
which  it  falls,  it  is  an  object  of  the  high- 
est interest.  The  sheet  of  foam,  which 
first  breaks  over  the  ridge,  is  more 
and  more  divided  as  it  {dunges  and  is 
dashed  against  the  succeiasive  layers  of 
rock,  which  it  almost  completely  veUs 
from  view;  the  spray  becomes  very 
delicate  and  abundant,  from  top'  to 
bottom,  hanging  over,  and  revolving 
around  the  torrent,  till  it  becomes  lighter 
and  more  evanescent  than  the  whitest 
fleecy  clouds  of  summer,  than  the  finest 
attenuated  web,  than  the  lightest  gossa- 
mer, constituting  the  most  airy  and 
sumptuous  drapOry  that  can  be  imagin- 
ed. Tet,  like  the  drapery  of  some  of 
the  Grecian  statues,  which,  while  it 
veil,  exhibits  more  forcibly  the  form  be> 
neath,  this  does  not  hide  but  exalts 
the  effect  produced  by  this  noble  cata- 
ract. 

*^  Those  who  vidt  the  falls  in  the 
winter,  see  one  fine  feature  added  to 
the  scene,  although  they  may  lose 
some  others.  The  spray  freezes,  and 
forms  a  regular  cone,  of  100  feet  and 
upwards  in  height,  standing  immedi- 
ately at  the  bottom  of  the  cataract, 
like  some  huge  giant  of  fabulous  noto- 
riety." 

The  extraordinary  formation  called 


'/^" 


88 


OAITADA. 

QmImo— Falb  of  8t  Anno— 7alla  of  fhe  Ohaadlftr*. 


'1 


^/^ 


w^- 


'      ^7-   -/'V* 


Fallit  of  Montmorenoi. 


tke  Natural  Steps,  will  not  fail  to  in- 
terest the  vitttor  at  MontmorenoL 

Th«  Fallvof  8t  AniM,  in  the  rirer 
St.  Anne,  24  miles  below  Quebec,  are 
in  a  neighboriiood  of' great  jaoturesque 
beauty.  Starting  firom  the  dty  in  the 
morning  betimes,  one  may  yitit  Mont- 
morenoi nicely,  and  proceed  thence 
the  same  CTcnhiff  to  St.  Anne.  Next 
morning  after  a  leisurely  surrey  of  these 
oaseades,  there  will  be  most  of  the  day 
bft  to  get  back,  with  any  ditourt  that 
may  seem  detdrable,  to  Quebec. 

Th*  Fall*  of  tlM  dunidiira  are 
reached  via  Point  Levi.  The  rapid 
rirer  plunges  over  a  precipice  of  180 
Cset,  presenting  very  much  the  look  of 
IxmUi^;  water,  from  whence  its  name  of 


chaudiere  or  caldron.  The  cataract  it 
broken  into  three  separate  parts  by  the 
intervention  of  huge  projecting  rocks, 
but  it  is  reuitited  bdbre  it  reaches  the 
badn  ben'^pth.  * 

*We  take  our  leave  of  this  venerable 
city,  its  unique  natural  beauties,  and  its 
winning  stories,  with  the  remembrance 
of  some  of  the  impresrions  it  made  upon 
Professor  Silliman,  when  he  visited  it 
years  ago: — "Quebec,"  he  writes,  **  at 
least  for  an  American  city,  is  certainly 
A  very  peculiar  pdjace.  A  military  town 
— containmg  about  20,000  inhabitants 
— ^most  compactly  and  permanently 
built— environed,  as  to  its  most  import* 
ant  parts,  by  waUs  and  gates-rand  de- 
fended by  numeroos  heavy  oannoiw- 


m- 


Towns  la  Ouud*— Yojag*  up  tlv^St  Lnmiiet. 


80 


Mt  to 
bythfl 
rooks, 
esthe 

erable 
indite 
>rance 

upon 
Ited  it 
"at 
iainly 

town 
italite 
aently 

port" 
d  de- 


garrisoned  by  troops  baring  the  arms, 
the  costume,  the  music,  the  discipline 
of  Europe—foreign  in  language,  fea- 
tures, and  origin,  from  most  of  those 
whom  they  are  sent  to  defend — ^founded 
upon  a  rook,  and  in  its  highest  parte 
overlooking  a  great  extent  of  country»- 
between  800  and  400  miles  from  the 
ocean — In  the  midst  of  a  great  con- 
tinent, and  yet  displaying  fleete  of 
foreign  merchantmen  m  ite  fine  capa- 
cious bay — and  showing  all  the  bustle 
of  a  crowded  seaport — ^ite  streete  nar- 
row, populous,  and  winding  up  And 
dosrn  almost  mountaiboua  dediVmes— 
situated  in  the  latitude  of  the  finest 
parte  of  Europe^-ezhibiting  in  ite  en- 
virons the  beauty  of  an  European 
capital— 4ind  yet  in  winter  smarting 
with  the  cold  of  Siberia — governed  by 
a  people  of  different  language  and 
habite  from  the  mass  of  the  population 
— 9Pposed  in  reBgion,  and  yet  leaving 
that  population  wiUiout  taxes,  and  in 
the  full  enjoyment  of  every  jnivilege, 
civil  and  religious."  . 

Toionto,  on  Lake  Ontario,  and  the 
line  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway ;  from 
Quebec,  601  miles;  fiou  Montreid,  888 
miles ;  fi^m  Hamiltoii,  88  miles ;  from 
Niagara  Falls,  81  Uttes.  For  'deser^)- 
tion,  CM  Toronto^  in  route  from  Hon* 
treal  to  Niagara,  via  the  St.  Lawrence. 

Bingatoii,  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Onta* 
rio,  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  on  the 
line  of  the  Grind  Trunk  Railway ;  from 
Quebec,  841  ttiiles;  from  Montreal,  178 
miles;  from  Toronto,  160  miles.  Bee 
JRngaUm  in  route  from  Montrteal  to 
magara. 

Hamilton,  near  the  eastern  terminus 
of  the  Great  Western  Railway,  at  the 
head  of  Lake  Ontario;  from  Quebec, 
689  miles;  from  Montreal,  871  miles; 
from  Toronto,  88;  from  Niagara,  48. 
See  route  from  Montreal  to  Niagara. 

Ziondon  is  a  prosperous  town,  mid- 
way on  the  line  of  the  Great  Western 
Railway,  in  ite  traverse  of  the  peninsula 
of  Canada  West  firom  Lake  Ontario  to 
Lake  Huron.'  Distant  from  Niagara 
Falls,  119  miles,  west;  from  Hi^nilton, 
76  miles;  from  Toronto,  114  miles; 
ftt>m  Montreal,  447  miles ;  from  Quebec, 


616  miles.  In  1820,  the  present  site  of 
London  was  a  wilderness,  occupied  by  ji 
the  savages  and  the  wild  deer ;  now  ite  ' 
population  exceeds  12,000.  JAke  Ham- 
ilton, Toronto,  and  all  the  growing 
towns  of  Canada,  it  is  Well  bunt,  upon 
wide  streets,  and  with  elegant  and  sub- 
stantial arcbitecturew 

MONTBBAL  TO  lOAOABA  FALLS ;  Ui^ 
THE  BT.  LAWbInOB  BIVSB  AND 
LAKE  OMTABia 

The  trairellcr  may  go  firom  Mon- 
treal to  IQagara,  either  by  steamer 
on  the  St  Lawrence,  or  by  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway,  888  miles  to  Toronto 
on  Lake  Ontiiio.  At  Toronto  he  may 
cross  the  weiteni  end  of  the  lake  to  the 
town  of  IQanrft,  and  thence  reach  the 
FaUs  by  the  jMo  and  Ontario  Railwav 
14  mibfe  liMig;  or  he  may  so  less  di> 
reetly,  by  water  or  by  rail  to  Hamilton, 
and  thenee  by  n41  A^^in  to  the  Falls. 

Ur  ncB  Sf.  IjJLWuaot  nou  Mow- 
TB>4Jb.  :$ii9iinViktot  Ctaukda  tor  gene- 
ral mtiiatlwoi^^' St.  Lawrence. 

ZiadWNlK  firom  Montreal  the  trav- 
eller wUl  fiiiQveed  nine  miles  to  La- 
chine  by  ipjlwajr,  avoiding  the  rapids 
which  the  steamerp  sometimes  descend. 
At  LaohM  to;  the  residence  of  Sir 
<G|eorKe  Stepson,  Governor  of  the  Hud- 
son's JBav  (Mimpany,  and  of  tiie  officers 
of  this,  rae  chief  post  df  that  corpora- 
tion. It  is  firom  this  point  that  the 
orders  from  head-quarters  in  London 
are  sent  to  all  the  many  posto  thrbugh- 
out  the  vast  territory  of  the  Company ; 
and  near  the  end  of  April  each  year 
a  body  of  trained  vojfageure  set  out 
hence  in  large  canoes,  called  tntAiree 
conofo,  with  paclm^  and  ^oods  for 
the  various  poste  m  the  wilderness. 
Two  centuries  ago,  the  companions  of 
the  explorer  Cartier  on  arriving  here, 
thought  they  had  disoovered  a  route  to 
China,  and  expressed  their  joy  in  the 
exclamation  of  La  Chined  Hence,  the 
present  name,  or  so  at  least  says  tra- 
dition. A  costly  canal  overcomes  the 
obstruction  of  the  rajrf^  at  Laohine. 

TIm  Tillag*  of  tlw  Rapidai  dr, 
Omgfaaawaga.  An  Iroquois  settle- 
ment lies  opposite  Lachine,  at  the  out- 
let of  the  expulsion  of  the  river  oaUed 


\ 


40 


OAXADA. 

Yojlg*  np  the  Bt  L»wnaMk 


Lake  St.  Louia.  The  Indians  at  Caugh> 
Dc.»aga,  subsist  chiefly  by  narigating 
barges  and  rafts  down  to  Montreal, 
and  in  wintei^,  by  a  trade  in  moccasins ; 
■now-tfhoes,  &o.  They  are  mostly  Roman 
Oatholic8,and  pbasess  an  elegant  church. 
laikm  St.  Zicnia.  The  brQirn  floods 
of  the  Ottawa  assist  in  forming  this 

K>at  expanse  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
ey  roll  unmixed  through  the  dear- 
er water  of  the  great  river.  On  the 
northern  shore  of  Lake  St.  Louis  is  the 
island  of  Montreal,  80  miles  long.  At 
the  western  extremity  is  laU  Perrot. 
The  Ceueade  Rajoida  separate  the  ex- 

?ftnseJuBt  passed  from  Lake  St.  Francis, 
he  Beauhamois  Oanal  here  is  11^ 
miles  in  length,  and  has  nine  looks.    * 

Irfik*  8t>  Franola,  into  which  the 
Toyager  now  enters,  extends  40  miles. 
Midway  on  the  right,  is  the  village  of 
Lahoabtkr,  where  a  pile  of  stones  or 
Mtm  has  been  thrown  up  in  honor  of 
£Kr  John  Colborne,  formerly  Govemor- 
Oeneral  of  Canada,  now  Lord  Seaton. 
Leaving  Lake  St.  fVancis,  we  pass  the 
passage  of  the  celebrated  Lom  Sault 
rapids.  Here,  too,  is  the  ComiaaU 
Canal,  11'^  miles  in  length,  with  1  iccks 
of  noble  size. 

Oomwall  is  a  pleasant  town,  for- 
merly cidled  *'  Pointe  Maline,"  in  me- 


mento of  the  labor  of  ascending  tlM 
river  at  this  point. 

Tha  ViUaig*  of  St.  lUglaliesaorosg 
fh)m  OornwaUL  It  forms  the  boundary 
between  Canada  and  the  State  of  New 
Tork,  and  also  intersects  the  tract  of 
land  occupied  by  the  1,000  Iroquois, 
American  and  British,  who  dwell  here. 

Didkanaom  Tiwidihg  is  at  the  head 
of  the  Cornwall  oanal,  within  the  roac«,V 
of  the  88  mUes- which  follow  to  Fres- 
cott ;  the  villages  of  MovLiMKm,  Maria 
Town,  and  Matilda,  are  successively 
passed. 

Th»  Battto  Fldd  of  Ohydw^ 
Famii  where  the  Americans  met  a  de* 
feat  in  the  last  war,  lies  a  little  above 
Mari»  Town. 

Pkwwott  is  rajridly  recovering  its 
prestige  lost  when  the  construction  of 
the  Rideau  Oanal  won  its  trade  away 
to  Kingston;  for  now  a  railway  from 
New  Tork  approaches  it  at  Ogdensbuj^, 
and  another  connects  it  with  Ottawa 
city,  on  the  Ottawa  river; '  Besides 
wUch  advantages,  it  is  on  the  line  of 
the  Orand  Trunk  route.  From  Fres- 
cott  may  be  seen  the  windmill  and  the 
ruined  houses,  mementoes  of  the  at* 
tempt  at  invuion  by'  Sohultz  and  liis 
band  in  1888. 

Qgdansbarf,  New  Tork,  the  western 


Bj«f'''^''*^ 


Kingiton,  Canada  Wast 


OAKAOA. 


41 


Up  the  Bt  Lawrenoe— Kingston,  eto. 


terminus  Of  the  Northern  Railway  from 
Lalte  Ghnmplain,  is  opposite  Prescott. 

Maitlann,  built  upon  tlie  site  of  an 
old  French  fort,  is  seven  miles  above 
Prescott. 

BrookviUe  is  yet  five  miles  more,  on- 
ward.* It  is  one  of  the  best  built  towns 
in  Canada  West. 

Oananoqoe  is  12  miles  above  Brock- 
▼lUe. 

At  Kiiigtton,  20  miles  yet  beyond 
Gananoque,  we  leave  the  St.  Lawrenoe, 
and  approach  the  waters  of  Lake  Onta- 
rio,  having  previously  made  our  way 
for  an  hour  through  the  wonderful 
labyrinth  of  the  famous  "  Thousand 
Isles."  Bee  The  Lake  of  a  **7%om- 
»and  lelee^"  in  the  chapter  on  Canada. 
Wolfe's  Island,  a  well-cultivated  spot. 
Is  opposite  Kingston.  The  city  of 
Kingston,  modern  as  it  appears,  looks 
far  back  for  its  history,  as  its  advanta- 
geous locale  did  not  fail  to  attract  the 
notice  of  the  early  French  discoverers. 
It  was  once  occupied  as  a  small  fort 
called  Gataraqui,  otherwise  known  as 
Frontenao,  and  was  the  scene  of  various 
sieges  and  explmts  before  it  passed  with 
all  the  territory  of  the  Canadas  from 
French  to  British  rule.  It  was  from 
this  point  that  murderous  expeditions 
were  inade  by  the  Indians  in  ^e  olden 
times  agunst  Albany  and  other  English 
settlements  of  New  York;  which  in 
turn  sent  back  here  its  retributive 
blows.  The  present  city  was  founded  in 
1783.  It  has  now  a  population  of  about 
16,000.  Among  its  objects  of  interest, 
are  the  fortifications  of  Fort  Henry,  on 
a  hill  upon  the  eastern  side  of  the 
Itideau  Canal ;  two  Hartello  Towers  off 
the  town ;  and  other  defensive  works ; 
the  University  of  Queen's  College ;  the 
Roman  Catholic  College  of  Re^opoUs ; 
and, the  Provincial  Penitentiary  a  Uttle 
to  the  west  of  the  city. 

As  the  navigation  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
ends  at  Kingston,  the  river  boats  are 
exchanged  here  for  others  more  suited 
to  the  lake  voyages. 

Lake  Ontario — American  shore. — 
Let  us,  before  we  enter  the  great  waters 
of  Ontario,  say  a  word  to  the  traveller 
who  may  prefer  to  make  the  voyage 


along  the^mmcan  or  lower  shore  of  the 
lake.  From  the  boundary  line  46°  the  en- 
tire lUtoral  is  in  the  State  of  New  York. 

Frmioh  Oreak  comes  into  the  St. 
Lawrence  as  we  leave  it.  It  was  here 
that  General  Wilkinson  embarked  (No> 
vember  1818)  with  7,000  men,  with 
the  purpose  of  descending  the  river  and 
attacking  Montreal.  A  week  subse- 
,quently,  an  engagement  took  place 
near  Williamsburg,  on  the  Canadian 
side,  when  the  Americans  came  off  but 
poorly.  General  Wilkinson  being  di*> 
appointed  in  his  expectation  of  rein- 
forcements from  Plattsburg,  retired  to 
French  Mills,  and  there  went  into  winter- 
quarters.  This  place  was  afterwards 
named  Fort  Covington,  in  memory  of 
General  Co'-'ngton,  who  fell  at  the 
battle  of  Williamsburg. 

Saokett'ii  Barbor,  ^.  Y.,)  Ues  2Q 
miles  below  the  mouth  of  French  Greek. 
It  is  on  the  eastern  extremity  of  the 
lake,  on  the  south  side  of  Black  lUver 
Bay.  This  was  the  naval  station  of  the 
Undted  States  during  the  English  and 
American  War  of  1812.  In  May  1818,  Sir 
GeorgePrevost  made  a  landingwithl,000 
troops,  bvt  re-embarked  without  accom- 
plishing auy  thing.  The  Navy  Yard  here 
is  a  prominent  object  as  we  land. 

Oswego,  (N.  Y.,)  is  the  chief  com- 
mercial port  on  the  American  shore  of 
Ontario.  It  is  very  agreeably  situated 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Oswego  river. 
The  Oswego  Canal  comes  in  here  (88- 
miles)  from  Syracuse,  and  the  railway, 
also,  from  the  same  place. 

Oarthage,  the  port  of  the  city  of 
Rochester,  (N.  Y.,)  is  at  the  approach 
to  Lake  Ontario,  of  the  beautiful  (Ge- 
nesee river.    (See  "  Rochester.") 

From  the  mouth  of  Hie  Genesse  to 
Fort  Niagara,  a  distance  of  86  miles, 
the  coast  now  presents  a  monotonoos 
and  forest-covered  level,  with  a  clearing 
only  here  and  there. 

Having  now  peeped  at  the  American, 
or  southern  shore,  we  will  go  back  to 
Kingston,  and  start  again  On  the  upper 
side  of  the  lake,  making  first  for  To- 
ronto, 166  miles  distant ;  from  Mont- 
real, 198  miles. 

Oobvucgi  with  a  population  of  about 


\ 


49 


GANADA. 

Th«  Bt  Lawnnee— Tow  to  th«  Onat  Lakm. 


^ 


6,000,  ii  79  milM  from  Toronto.  It  is 
one  of  the  itaoit  eztenoiTe  cotton  manu- 
ikotoriM  in;CanAd«.  A  railway  from 
Fetfrboro*  (80  miles  diatant)  cornea  in 
Iiere.  In  the  Tioinase  is  tlie  Vietoria 
CfoUMt,  founded  by  Act  of  the  FroTin- 
oial  Legialature  in  1842. 

Pent  Bop*  is  seven  miles  abore  Oo- 
burar.  From  this  point,  or  from  Goburg, 
the  journey  to  Kingston  is  often  charm- 
ingly made  overland,  through  a  beautiful 
country  at  the  head  of  tho&ay  of  QmnU, 
a  singular  arm  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

Toranto  i$  the  larg^t  and  most 
populous  city  in  Oanada  West,  ^ty 
years  ago  the  site  of  the  present  busy 
mart  was  occupied  by  two  Indian  fiun- 
ilies  only.  In  1*798,  Governor  Simcoe 
bemn  the  settlement  under  the  name 
of  York,  changed,  when  it  was  incor- 
porated in  1884,  to  Toronto— meaning, 
m  the  Indian  tongue,  "The  place  of 
'  meeting.**  The  population,  in  USl?, 
numbered  only  1,200 ;  in  1860,  it  had 
reached  26,000 ;  and  now,  it  is,  perhaps, 
46j000,  or  upwards. 

The  Provhicial  Lee^ature  meets  at 
Toronto  and  Quebec,  alternately,  every 
four  years — an  arrangement  made  since 
the  disturbances  of  1849,  which  resulted 
in  the  burning  of  the  Farliament  Houses 
at  Montreal. 

Among  the  public  buildings  of  To- 
ronto, the  traveller  will  perhaps  please 
himself  with  a  peep  at  the  Catholic 
Church  of  St.  Michael,  the  St.  James* 
Cathedral  (English),  the  University  of 
Toronto,  tne  St.  Lawrence  Hall  and 
Market,  the  Parliament  House,  Os- 
goode  Hall,  the  Post  OflBoe,  the  Court- 
Bouse,  the  Exchange,  the  Mechanics* 
Institute,  Knox's  Church,  Trinity  Col- 
lege, Upper  Canada  College,  the  Lunatic 
Asylum,  the  Jail,  and  the'Kormal  and  Mo- 
del Schools.  At  Toronto,  the  traveller 
may,  if  he  pleases,  reach  l^agara  direct, 
without  touching  at  Hamilton,  as  we 
propose  to  do  in  our  present  journey. 

Hamilton  is  among  the  most  beau- 
tiful and  most  prosperous  cities  of 
Canada.  It  aspires,  even,  to » run  a 
race  with  Toronto,  one  of  the  "2.40** 
nags  of  the  province.  Many  advan- 
tages promise  it  a  brave  future.    It  is 


at  the  head  of  the  western  extremity 
of  Lake  Ontario,  connected  with  tha 
eastern  capitals  of  the  United  States, 
and  with  Quebec,  Montreal,  and  To* 
ronto,  by  the  Grand  Trunk,  and  the 
Hamilton  and  Toronto  Railwavs;  and 
with  Lake  Huron  and  the  MisiissippI 
States,  by  the  Great  Western  RaUway, 
which  traverses  the  garden  lands  of 
Canada ;  and,  via  the  wispension  Bridge 
at  Niagara,  with  the  whole  railway 
system  of  New  York.  The  distance 
from  Toronto  to  Hamilton,  by  tha 
steamer,  is  46  miles— time,  two  and  a 
half  hours ;  by  railwav,  88  miles — time 
(express),  1  hour  24  minutes.  The  pop- 
ulation of  Hamilton,  in  1840,  was  6,600  ( 
at  this  time  it  much  exceeds  20,000. 

From  Hamilton  to  th*  TtJUa, 
Distance,  by  the  Great  Western  Bait 
way,  from  Hamilton  to  the  Suspension 
Bridge,  48  miles— time,  1  hour,  85 
minutes.  Stations,  Ontario,  Grimsbv, 
Beamsville,  Jordak  St.  Catherines, 
Thorold,  Niagara  Falls. 

St  Onthnine't  is  the  chief  point  of 
interest  on  this  part  of  our  route.  Its 
pleasant  topography,  and,  nuMre  partic- 
ularly, its  nuHeral  watert,  is  making  it  a 
place  of  great  summer  resort.  Here  we 
leave  the  reader  to  establish  himself 
at  Niagara,  and  to  see  all  its  marvels, 
having  elsewhere  pointed  out  where  he 
should  go,  and  what  should  be  his 
itiniraire  while  there.  See  Niagara 
J^o/^  (New  York). 

THE  GBSAT  LAKES. 

A  delightful  tour,  of  a  few  weeks, 
may  be  made,  in  the  heat  of  the  sum- 
mer, among  the  natural  wonders  of  the 
regi<m  of  the  Great  Lakes,  to  Mackinac, 
the  Satdt  de  St.  Marie,  and  the  shores 
of  Lake  Superior,  returning,  pefhaps, 
by  some  one  of  the  lower  routes  of  tha 
Atlantic,  from  the  head  waters  of  the 


At  Toronto,  on  Lake  Ontario,  which 
may  be  easily  and  speedily  reached  by 
routes  which  we  have  already  travelled 
— ^from  New  York,  by  the  Hudson  river 
and  Lake  Gbamplain  to  Montreal,  and 
thence  by.  the  Grand  Trunk  Bailway ; 
or  by  the  Central  road  from  Albany  to 


OAKADA.— XXOHIOAN. 


49 


Lake  HnroB— Stnita  of  jfackinift 


weeks, 
lie  sam- 
of  the 
ckinac, 
shores 
Bfhape, 
I  of  the 
of  the 

which 


BaflUo,  snd  bT  Niagara;  or,  by  Nia- 
gara, Tia  the  New  Torlc  and  Erie  Rail- 
way ;  or,  fh>m  Portland  or  Boston,  by 
railroad  to  Montreal,  ftc.  Bjf  Steam- 
boat, daily,  from  Buffalo,  or  from  Ohi- 
oago,  fto.,  to  Mackinac  or  MaekinaWf  as 
the  word  is  pronounced. 

At  Toronto,  the  traveller  will  take 
the  OoUingwood  route,  by  the  Ontario, 
Bimcoe,  and  Huron  Railway,  97  miles 
to  OoUhiswood  at  the  head  of  Georgian 
Bay  or  Manitoulin  Lake,  the  north-east 
part  of  Lake  Huron.  Huron  is  the 
third  in  size  of  the  fire  great  inland  seas, 
which  pour  their  floods  into  the  St. 
Lawrence.  It  Ues  between  48°  and 
46*  16'  north  latitude,  having  the  State 
of  Michigan  on  the  south-south-west, 
and  Oanua  West  upon  all  other  points, 
excepting  where  the  Straits  of  Mack- 
inac and  the  Falls,  or  Sault  de  Ste. 
Marie  enter  it  firom  Lakes  Michigan  and 
Superior,  and  at  its  outlet  in  the  St. 
Olair  river.  It  is  divided  by  the  penin- 
sula of  Cabot's  head,  and  the  Miudton- 
line  Islands,  the  upper  portions1l>eing  the 
north  channel  and  the  Georgian  Bay, 
which  we  reach  at  OoUingwood.  The 
length  of  Lake  Huron,  following  its 
orescent  shape,  is  about  280  miles,  and 
its  greatest  breadth,  not  including  the 
Georgian  Bay,  is  106  miles ;  its  average 
width  is  70  miles.  Lake  Huron  is  862 
feet  above  Lake  Ontario,  and  600  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  depth 
is  1,000  feet — greater  than  that  of  any 
other  in  the  grand  chain  of  wUch  it  is  a 
link.  Off  Sagenaw,  leads,  it  is  said,  have 
been  dropped  to  a  depth  of  18,000  feet, 
which  is  12,000  feet  bolow  the  level  of 
the  Atlantic,  and  yet  without  finding 
bottom.  The  waters  here  are  so  pure  and 
clear  that  objects  may  be  distinctly  seen 
from  60  to  100  feet  below  the  surface. 
In  these  noble  waters  there  are  said  to 
be  more  than  8,000  islands. 

From  OoUingwood,  the  route  is  by 
splendid  steamers  to  Mackinac,  or  the 
Straits  of  Mackinac,  which  are  the  con- 
necting Unks  between  Lake  Michigan 
and  Lake  Huron.  The  Island  of  Mack- 
inac has  a  circumference  of  about  nine 
miles,  and  its  shores  and  vicinage  are  pic- 
turesque and  romantic  in  the  hig)iiest  de- 


gree. The  Arched  Rock  facing  the  water, 
and  rising  to  the  elevation  of  some  200 
feet,  makes  a  bold  and  striking  picture 
from  aU  points  on  the  Uke,  and  espa- 
oiaUy  as  you  look-  through  Its  ruda 
arches  from  the  summit.  Robinson's 
Folly  is  an  attractive  bhiff  on  the  north 
shore — ^years  ago  a  Mr.  Robinson,  after 
whom  the  bluff  is  named,  erected  la 
summer-house  upon  its  crest.  Here  he 
passed  his  days,  and  oftentimes  his 
nights,  despite  the  cautions  of  the 
people  about  him,  until,  in  an  unlucky 
tempest,  he  and  his  eyrie  nest  wer« 
swept  away  together. 

ThB  Otiw  off  Sknlb  is  upon  the 
western  shore  of  the  island.  Once  upon 
a  time,  it  is  said,  a  party  of  Kouz  In- 
dians were  pursued  hither  by  the  Ot- 
tawas,  who  imprisoned  and  destroyed 
their  foes  in  this  cavern,  by  bOttiUng 
fires  at  its  mouth.  The  traveller,  Henry, 
was  one  night  secristed  here,  by  m 
friendly  Indian,  wheit,  to  his  surfMrise 
and  horror,  the  momhig  Ught  showed 
that  he  had  been  sleepfaig  souadiy 
upon  a  bed  of  human  bones. 

Tho  Noodlas,  another  natural  won* 
der  of  Mackinac,  is  a  bold  rock,  in  form 
not  unUke  a  Ught-house.  This  elevtp 
tion  commands  a  panorama  of  the  entire 
island,  and  down  upon  the  crumbling 
and  weed-covered  ruins  of  Fort  Holmes. 
Days  of  deUght  may  be  passed  amidst 
the  natural  beauties  of  hmd  and  water 
at  Mackinac,  made  doubly  i^cturesque 
by  the  wUd  frontier  life  yet  found  here, 
and  mingled,  too,  with  the  stiU  existii^ 
homes  and  presence  of  the  Red  men. 

Fort  MaoMwan  stands  upon  a  roclnr 
height,  160  feet  above  the  village,  which 
it  overlooks*  An  agency  for  Indian 
afihirs  is  established  here,  which  is, 
from  time  to  time,  the  resort  of  depu- 
tations and  bands  of  the  wild  dwelwrs 
of  the  surrounding  wUdemess.  Im- 
mense quantities  of  fish  are  sent  (him 
Mackinac.  Steamboats  from  Detrdt, 
Chicago,  and  other  places,  stop  here 
continuaUy, 

Sanlt  8t0.  Mario.  Passing  on  to- 
wards Lake  Superior,  a  voyage  of  eight 
pleasant  hours,  in  a  steamer,  wiU  bring 
us  to  the  famous  FaUs  of  St  Mary,  ia 


44 


CANADA. — ^momoAir. 


BftuU  Bi  Mui*. 


the  Strait  of  St.  Mary,  which  conneota 
the  waters  of  Lake  Superior  and  Lalce 
Huron,  and  separates  Ganada  West  from 
the  upper  part  of  Michigan.  The  strait 
extends  68  miles  from  the  south-east 
extremitj  of  Lulie  Superior  until  it 
reaches  Lalce  Huron.  Its  coturse  is 
sometimes  narrow,  and  broken  into 
angrv  rapids ;  ag^in,  it  widens  into  beau- 
tiful lakelets,  and  winds  amid  enchanting 
islands.  It  is  navigable  for  vessels 
drawing  eight  feet  of  water,  up  to 
within  a  mile  of  Lake  Superior,  where 
the  passage  is  interrupted  by  the  great 
*'  Sault "  or  Falls.  The  Sault  is  a  series 
of  turbulent  rapids,  with  a  total  descent 
of  22  feet  in  the  course  of  three  quarters 
of  a  mile. 

The  exhilarating  sport  of  descending 
this  passage,  or  of  running  the  rapids, 
as  the  adventure  is  called,  is  that  de- 
scribed  in  the  Lake  Superior  Journal — 
"Wast  thou  ever  in  a  gondow  in 
Yenioe?"  is  nothing  to  the  question 
constantly  asked  -nowadays,  "Hast 
tho\i  ever  run  the  St.  Mary's  Rapids  in 
•  birchen  canoe?"  One  who  can  de- 
cide that  interesting  question  in  the 
affirmative,  can  boast  of  the  most  deli- 
cious sport  ever  ei\joyed  on  the  water. 

The  Rapids,  bright  and  sparkling,  and 
white  with  foam,  are  beautifully  broken 
and  dashed  into  a  thousand  eddies  by 
small  islands  and  huge  bouldera ;  some 
rearing  their  fVightflil  heads  above  the 
surface,  some  bowing  themselves  under 
the  foaming,  rushing  currents,  seeming 
like  so  many  sea-monstera  forcing  their 
way  madly  up  the  rapid  stream. 

The  bark-oanoe  is  beautifully  adapted 
to  this  "leap;"  light  as  a  feather  in 
the  hands  of  its  only  true»  master  and 
builder,  the  Indian,  it  bounds  with 
every  motion  of  the  dancing  watera. 
None  but  an  Indian  can  pilot  our  bark 
down  among  those  fUrious  waten  and 
fHghtfUl  rocks ;  but  guided  by  an  Ojib- 
wa,  a  people  rocked  from  their  infoncy 
in  these  birchen  canOes,  we  feel  safe  as 
we  do  on  land. 

For  a  perfect  enjoyment  of  this  de- 
scent, the  day  should  be  warm,  calm,  and 
dear — so  warm  that  it  is  a  luxury  to  be 
out  upon  these  oool  waters,  so  stUl  that 


not  a  breath  of  air  can  be  felt  atirrinff., 
Though  the  excitemant  of  the  trip 
never  wean  off,  yet  the  flnt  venture  in 
the  flrail  boat  has  a  freshness  of  interast 
never  to  be  forgotten.  One  walks  up 
to  the  "Head,'^  beside  the  roaring 
rapids,  where  the  boat  is  in  waiting 
for  the  leap,  and  the  never^jeasing  roar 
Alls  his  mind,  as  well  as  his  ear,  with 
vngue  sensation  of  fear ;  he  sees  every- 
where  the  ugly-looking  bouldera  in  the 
channel  of  the  river ;  he  sees  the  waten 
dashed  into  foam  around  them ;  he  has 
heard  of  all  the  accidents  thaft  have 
happened  in  making  the  descent,  and 
he  steps  into  the  giddy  little  craft  with 
more  of  fear  than  pleasure.  But  that 
sensation  is  of  short  duration.  Ho  feels 
encouraged  by  the  ease  and  pleasant 
coolness  of  his  Indian  voyageurt  and  by 
their  dexterity  in  guiding  the  canoe. 

At  first  the  current  »  smooth  and 
unbroken,  and  one  looks  down  through 
the  crystal  water  at  the  boulder-coverad 
bottom,  and  is  surprised  and  delighted 
at  the  canoe's  rushing  into  an  M>ys8, 
gradually  subsiding  into  the  quiet  now 
of  a  broad  river,  so  that  steamboats 
may  nm  into  the  very  foot  of  the  rapids, 
and  the  frail  bark-canoe  of  the  adven- 
turous and  skilful  half-breed  dash  far 
up  among  them  in  punuit  of  the  white 
fish.  These  rapids  are  broken  up  into 
several  different  channels,  and  among 
them  are  scattered  little  islands,  such 
as  you  see  at  Niagara,  and,  like  them, 
bristling  with  cedara  in  all  possible 
attitudes. 

At  this  point,  on  the  American  side, 
is  the  little  viUage  of  the  Sault — an  old 
settlement  in  the  State  of  Michigan, 
founded  by  the  Jesuits  abojit  two  cen- 
turies ago.  It  has  evidently  seen  and 
felt  nothing  of  the  great  pro^press  which 
has  been  building  up  cities  and  states. 
Here  is  to  be  seen  the  native  owner  of 
the  soil  and  the  half-breed  (a  cross  of 
the  French  and  Indian  blood);  and 
many  other  objects  of  interest. 

These  rapids  are  not  unlike,  those  of 
Niagara,  excepting  that,  instead  of  end- 
ing upon  the  brink  of  a  terrible  precipice, 
they  decline  with  the  steady  flow  of  a 
wide  river;  and  steamen  and  canoes 


khose  of 

of  end- 

BcipioOi 

}wof  a 

canoes 


CANADA. — ^mOHIOASr. 


45 


Ltkt  Boparior. 


maY  fearleMly  enter  them.  They  run 
in  different  ohannela,  everywhere  dodg- 
ing  the  numerous  little  cedar-covered 
Ulanda  in  their  way.  The  Sault  yields 
abundant  supplies  of  finny  inhabitants ; 
for  the  excellence  '^>f  its  white  fish  it  is 
particularly  renowned. 

The  tillage  of  the  Sault  on  the  Mich- 
igan shore,  was  founded  by  the  Jesuits 
200  years  ago,  but  so  little  progress  has 
it  made,  that  the  Aboriginal  owner  of 
the  soil  is  still  found  in  possesion. 
Upon  the  British  side  of  the  river,  there 
is  an  ancient-looking  estabUcdim'ent,  oc- 
cupied IP  an  agency  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company. 

The  St.  Mary's  Ship  Oanal,  a  noble 
work,  now  overcomes  the  obstruction 
made  by  these  rapids  in  the  passage 
ttom  Lake  Huron  to  Lake  Superior. 
Heretofore,  merchandise  from  Chicago, 
Detroit.  Buffalo,  and  other  places,  had 
to  be  discharged  and  conveyed  over  a 
railroad  to  the  upper  end  of  the  Sault, 
and  then  hauled  down  to  the  waters  at 
the  opposite  extremity ;  and  the  locks 
in  this  massive  canal  are,  perhaps,  the 
largest  in  the  world. 

The  Chippewa  Hotel  is  a  good  house 
on  the  American  side  of  the  rapids ;  and 
Pine's  Hotel  is  a  well-kept  establishment 
on  the  British  shore. 

Steamers  leave  the  Sault,  daily,  for 


all  places  on  Lake  Superior,  and  the 
neighboring  waters. 

Lak*  Bnpaitior.  We  enter  Lak« 
Superior  after  the  passage  of  the  Sitult 
de  8te.  Marie,  between  two  bold  prom- 
ontories, rising  to  the  height  of  SOO 
to  800  feet,  called  Cape  Gro  and  Cap* 
Iroauois. 

This  grand  inland  sea  is  the  largest 
body  of  fresh  water  on  the  globe.  Its 
greatest  length  is  420  miles,  its  extreme 
breadth  is  160  miles,  and  its  circuit, 
1,760  miles.  On  its  west  and  north- 
west shore  is  Minnesota,  on  the  south- 
ern border  are  Winoonsin  and  Michigan, 
while  British  America  lies  on  all  other 
sides.  The  waters,  which  are  wonder* 
ftiUy  transparent,  come  by  more  than 
two  hundred  streams,  firom  a  basin 
covering  an  area  of  100,000  square 
milfpp  The  north,  and  south,  and  west- 
ern parts  are  full  of  islands,  while  in 
the  central  portions  of  Che  lake  there 
are  few  or  none.  In  the  north,  these 
islands  are  many  of  them  large  enough 
to  afford  amjde  shelter  for  vessels.  The 
picturesque  regions  of  the  lake  are  along 
the  northern  shore.  In  this  direction 
the  scenery  is  of  a  very  bold  and  strik- 
ing character.  For  many  miles  here 
there  are  continuous  ranges  of  cliffi^ 
which  reach  sometimes  an  elevation  of 
1,600  feet ;  on  the  south,  the  banks  ar« 


A  View  of  a  part  of  Lake  Snperior. 


M 


OAWADA. — UlCmQAX. 


».* 


Lake  Bnperlor 


Bad  Sandatona  Blnflk,  Lake  Sivarlor. 


low  and  landy,  except  where  tbey  are 
broken  by  occasional  limestone  ridges. 
These  ri^es  rise  near  the  eastern  ex- 
tremity/upon  this  ride,  800  feet,  in 
nniqno  wd  surpriring  perpendioaUir 
walls  and  olilfe,  broken  into  the  oddest 
forms,  indented  with  gnrotesque  caverns, 
and  jutting  out  into  ^ostly  headlands. 
It  is  theee  strange  formations  which  are 
fiunous  under  the  name  of  the  "  Pictured 
Rooks.*'  Thia  range  is  on  the  east  of 
Point  Keweenaw.  The  rocks  have 
been  colored  by  eontinual  mineral  drip- 
pings. dL  simflar  rooky  group  lies  to 
the  wait  of  the  Apostle  Islands.  It  is 
■ome  himdred  feet  Idgh,  and  is  broken 
by  numberlew  arches  and  cayes  of 
the  most  fdlotttresque  character.  On 
the  summit  of  these  bloflli,  there  is 
everywhere  a  atunted  gro/wHx  of  Al^e 
trees. 

The  Forcnpinft  Xountainsnpon  the 
southern  shores  of  the  lake,  appear, 
says  a  voyager,  to  be  about  as  exten- 
rive  (though  not  so  lofty)  as  the  Gats- 
kills. 

Of  the  islands  of  Lake  Buperior,  the 
largest,  which  is  some  40  miles  in  length, 
and  from  seven  to  ten  broad,  is  called 
Boyal  Uo.    Its  hills  rise  to  the  altitude 


of  400  feet,  with  fine  bold  shores,  on 
the  north,  and  many  fine  bays  on  the 
south.  It  is,  like  all  this  re^on,  a  famous 
fishing-ground.  Near  the  western  ex- 
tremity of  the  lake,  there  is  a  group 
known  as  the  Apostle  Islands.  They 
form  a  trio  of  forest-covered  heights, 
adding  greatly  to  the  beauty  of  the 
landscape  around ;  on  the  extreme  end 
of  the  largest,  is  the  trading  post 
called  La  Pointe,  inhabited  by  Indians 
and  white  adventurers.  It  is  a  great 
place  of  annual  rendezvous  for  (he  red 
man  and  the  trader,  and  a  starting 

S»int  for  tramps  to  the  re^ons  of  the 
ississipfd. 

The  shores  of  Lffce  Superior  have 
long  been  extenrively  explored  for  their 
abundant  copper  wedu;  and  ndnes 
have  been  opened  at  all  pointa. 

Mnd  du  iMt  is  in  Minnesota,  on  the 
Saint  Louis  river,  28  miles  from  its  en- 
trance into  Lake  Superior.  It  is  ac- 
cessible by  steamboat ;  and  its  wonder- 
fiilly  wOd  and  romantic  hills,  and  rocks, 
and  glens,  are  well  worth  a  virit  from 
the  tourist  of  the  Great  Lakes. 

We  shall  come  back  to  this  region, 
when  we  virit  the  head  waters  of  t' 
by-and-by. 


evei 


on 
a  ve 
mUe 
inti 
w« 

T 
d|Mt 
mor 
fivn 

Li 
lake) 
port 
from 
ocea 
onti 


the 


:«■ 


»# 


WBW  VKOKSWlOK, 


Vi 


Bt.  John^  BlT«r. 


NEW  BRUKSWICK. 

This  Provfaie^  of  Great  Britain,  lying  on  the  east  boundary  of  the  State  of 
Maine,  may  be  rtaohed  at  St.  John*a  by  steamers  from  Boston  (tearing  that  city 
eveiT  M<nidMr  and  Thursday,  at  9  A.11. ;  ot  iriien  the  route  shall  be  completed]^ 
1^  the  British  steamships  to  Halifiuc,  and  theuoe  by  railway,.185  miles,  to  St. 
John's.  ' 

The  laadseape  of  New  Bronsiridc  is  of  great  variety,  uid  of  most  {riotn*. 
resqne  beauty ;  the  whole  Province  (excepting  the  dozen  miles  lying  directly 
on  the  sea)  bdng broken  into  attractive  Tdleyaand  hills,  which^orthwara  assume, 
a  very  msncedj  and  sometimea,  very  rugged  aspect  Much  of  its  area  of  280 
miles  in  length,  and  180  in  breaddi,  is  covered  with  ou^^cent  forests,  whioh^  as 
In  the  B^il^boring  State  of  Maine,  constitute  its  chief  source  of  Industry  i^^ 
wealdii 

The  hUb  are  nowhere  of  a  very  wonderfld  height,  but  they  often  rise  in  pre- 
di^tous  and  diarp  acclivities,  which  give  them  amost  an  Alpine  aspect ;  all  the 
more  striking  in  eontnst  with  the  peaceftil  j^ains  and  Tides  whksh  they  protect 
from  the  tei^pests  of  the  sea. 

Like  the  ndghberlng  Province  of  NOva  Scotia,  New  Brunswick  so  abounds  In 
lakes  and  Hr^^  that  ready  water-access  n&kj  be  had  with  the  help  of  a  short 
portage,  now  and  then,  over  its  entire  area.  Thus  a  cuioe  may  easily  be  floated 
from  the  interior  to  the  Bay  of  Ghaleanx,  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  the 
ocean  on  the  north,  or  to  the  St.  James's  I^ver,  and  thence  to  the  Bay  of  Fundy 
on  the  south. 


.'I 


KTOUIl 

They 

heights, 

of  the 

ime  end 

;  post 

ndians 

i  great 

ttie  red 

itarting 

of  the 


on  the 
its  en- 
is  ac- 
ronder- 
rocks, 
It  from 


Island  of  Onmd  Maiiu.    Bmj  of  Fondy. 


Hu  St.  John^  Rlww  is  the  largest 
in  New  Brunswick,  and  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  and  beautiful  in'  America. 
It  rises  in  the  Highlands  which  separate 


Maine  from  Canada,  not  very  £u  from 
the  sources  of  the  Connecticut.  For 
150  miles  it  flows  in  a  north-east  di> 
reotion,  to  the  junetlon   of  the  St. 


\ 


U   A* 


NEW  BBUKBWIOK. 


St  John^B  Biver— Flsherieft— Ollniftte— Ballways. 


Francis.  Of  this  pah  of  the  river,  100 
miles  from  the  Mowhere  of  the  north* 
west  channel,  is  called  Walloostook 
Krer.  From  the  mouth  of  the  St. 
Francis,  the  course  of  the  St.  James  is 
irregularly  E.&E.  to  the  Orand  Falls ;  at 
which  point  it  makes  a  descent  of  from 
90  to  80  feet,  presenting  a  splendid 
picture  for  the  gratification  of  the 
tourist.  The  leap  of  the  Grand  Falls 
past,  the  river  makes  its  way  almost 
southward  for  some  distance,  after 
which  it  turns  abruptly  to  the  eastward, 
an^^  so  continues  its  way  for  100  miles, 
passing  Fredericton,  to  the  outlet  of 
the  Grand  Lake,  in  the  southern  central 
part  of  the  Province.  From  Grand 
Lake  its  passage  is  in  a  wide  channel, 
due  south  to  Kingston,  and  thence 
south-west  to  St.  John's,  at  its  mouth  in 
St.  John's  Harbor,  on  the  Bay' of 
Fundy.  ^^ 

The  entire  length  of  this  beautiful 
river  is  about  460  miles,  and  from  tho 
Grand  Falls  to  the  sea,  225  miles,  its 
course  is  within  the  British  territory. 
The  boundary  line  between  Maine  and 
the  Province  lies  in  the  deepest  part  of 
the  channel  of  the  St.  John's,  for  16 
miles,  from  a  point  three  miles  above 
the  Grand  Falls,  up  to  the  mouth  of  the 
St.  Francis  River ;  above  the  St.  Francis 
the  Ime  of  the  river  for  112  miles  is 
entirely  in  the  State  of  Maine,  except- 
ing a  distance  of  88  miles  through 
which  Canada  lies  upon  the  left  bank, 
the  right  bank  only  being  in  Maine. 
Vessels  of  128  tons  navigate  the  St. 
John's  as  far  up  as  Fredericton,  80  miles 
from  its  mouth,  and  small  steamers  go 
06  miles  beyond,  to  Woodstock,  some- 
times extending  their  way  to  the  foot 
Of  the  Gf and  FaUs.  Above  the  Falls, 
steamboats  pass  40  miles  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Madawaska  River,  and  from  this 
point  boats  and  canoes  pass  ttd  libitum, 
to  the  remotest  sources.  Strenuous 
efforts  have  been  making  by  the  govern- 
ment for  some  years  to  improve  the 
navigation  of  the  river,  and  it  is  hoped 
that  all  obstructions  will  eventually  be 
thoroughy  overcome  above  the  Grand 
Falls.  This  great  river  and  its  affluents 
are  thought  to  afford  1,800  miles  of  navi- 


gable waters.  Very  much  of  the  shores 
of  the  St.  John's  is  wild  forest  land.  la 
some  parts,  the  banks  rise  in  grand 
rocky  hills,  forming  in  their  lines  and 
interlacings  pictures  of  wonderAd  de- 
Ught. 

The  chief  tributaries  of  the  St.  John's, 
besides  the  St.  Francis  and  other  waters 
already  mentioned,  are  Aroostook,  the 
Oromocto,  and  the  Alagath,  on  the  west ; 
and  the  Salmon,  ^he  Naskwaak,  the 
Tobique,  the  Eennebekasis,  and  the 
Washeden^oak,  from  the  east. 

The  coast,  and  bays,  and  lakes,  and 
rivers  of  New  Brunswick  abound  with 
fish  of  almost  every  variety,  and  in  im- 
mense supplies.  The  fisheries  of  the 
Bay  of  Fundy  ore.  of  great  value,  and 
employ  vast  numbers  of  the  population. 
In  the  harbor  of  St.  John's  sJone,  there 
have  been  at  one  time  two  hundred 
boats,  with  five  hundred  men  taking 
salmon,  shad,  and  other  fish.  Nearly  nx 
hundred  fishermen  have  bieen  seen  at 
one  period  at  the  Island  of  Grand  Ma- 
nan;  while  at  the  West  Isles,  about 
seven  hundred  men  have  been  thus  em- 
ployed at  pne  moment ;  and  so  on,  at 
many  other  of  the  countless  fishing 
grounds  and  stations  of  the  New  Bruns- 
wick and  the  Nova  Scotia  coasts. 

The  climate  here  is  healthfid,  but  sub- 
ject to  great  extremes  of  heat  and  cold ; 
the  mercury  rising  sometimes  to  100°  in 
the  day  time,  and  falling  to  60°  at  night. 

Intkrnai.  Communication.  Besides 
the  steamers  and  stages  which  connect 
the  various  towns  and  cities  of  New 
Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia,  lines  of 
railway  are  in  active  progress,  which 
will  unite  the  two  Provinces,  and  both 
to  the  Canadas  and  the  States.  A 
railway  from  Halifax  to  the  north- 
em  coast  of  Nova  Scotia,  continued 
by  boats,  across  to  the  Upper  Pro- 
vince, will  unite  with  the  East  and 
North  American  railway,  to  a  junction 
with  the  routes  of  Canada  and  the 
States.  Another  road  is  to  extend  from 
St.  Andrews  to  Woodstock,  and  thence 
to  Quebec.  The  magnetic  telegraph 
already  connects  New  Brunswick,  Nova 
Scotia,  anQ  Prince  Edward's  Island  with 
the  States.    The  connection  between 


m 
its 


NOVA  BCOnA. 


49 


8t  John's— Frederlckton— Note  Scotia. 


le  shores 
and.  la 
in  grand 
lines  and 
ierful  de- 
It.  John's, 
ler  waters 
itook,  the 
the  west ; 
raak,  the 
and  the 

akes,  and 
rand  with 
md  in  im- 
is  of  the 
'alue,  and 
opulation. 
one,  there 
I  hundred 
en  taking 
N^early  sax 
n  seen  at 
Srand  Ma- 
les, about 
a  thus  em- 
80  on,  at 
as  fishing 
ew  Bruns- 
sts. 

[,  but  sub- 
and  cold ; 
to  100°  in 


Nora  Scotia  and  Prince  Edward's  Isl- 
and, is  by  a  submarine  cable,  nine 
miles  from  Oape  Tormentina  to  Oape 
Traverse. 

St.  JohnHl,  at  the  mouth  of  the  St. 
John's  River,  is  the  principal  city  of  New 
Brunswick,  with  a  population  of  over 
23,000.  It  is  superbly  situated  upon  a 
bold,  rocky  peninsula,  and  is  seen  very 
imposingly  from  the  sea.  The  scenery 
of  the  St.  John's  River  is  very  striking 
in  the  passage  immediately  preceding 
its  entrance  into  the  harbor,  and  a  mile 
and  a  half  above  the  city.  It  makes  its 
impetuous  way  here  in  a  chain  of  grand 
rapids,  through  rugged  gaps,  240  feet 
wide,  and  1,200  £^et  long.  This  pas- 
sage is  navigable  only  during  the  very 
brief  time  of  high  and  equal  tides  in 
the  harbor  and  the  river;  for  at  low 
water  the  river  '':  about  12  feet  higher 
than  the  harbor,  ^'le  at  high  water, 
the  harbor  is  fi     '  tove  the  river. 

It  is  thus,  only,  .  t  ■  '»e  waters  of  the 
harbor  and  of  the  river  are  on  a  level, 
that  vessels  can  pass ;  and  this  occurs 
only  during  a  space  of  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  minutes,  at  each  ebb  and  flow 
of  the  tide.  Immense  quantities  of 
timber  are  rafted  down  from  the  forests 
of  the  river,  above,  to  St.  John's.  It  is 
the  entrep6t  also  of  the  agricultural  and 
mineral  products  of  a  wide  region  of 
country. 


Frederioton,  the  capital  of  New 
Brunswick,  stands  upon  a  flat  tongue  of 
land,  in  a  bend  of  the  St.  John's  River, 
80  miles  firom  its  mouth.  This  sandy 
plain  is  about  three  miles  long,  some- 
times reaching  a  breadth  of  half  a  mile'. 
The  river,^which  is  navigable  up  to  this 
point,  is  nere  three-quarters  of  a  nule 
wide.  Small  steamers  ascend  60  miles 
yet  above  to  Woodstock,  and  sometimes 
to  the  foot  of  the  Oreat  Falls.  The 
population  is  about  6,000. 

The  view  both  up  and  down  the  val- 
ley is  most  interestine — ^to  the  north  an 
imcleared  range  of  highlands,  with  de- 
tached cones  and  broken  hills  thrown 
out  in  bold  relief  upon  the  landscape. 
Villas  enclosed  in  the  woods,  and  fiirins 
upon  the  clearings,  are  the  chief  objects 
it  presents ;  while  to  the  south  the  river 
is  seen  widening,  like  a  silver  cord, 
through  the  dark  woodlands,  until  it 
disappears  among  the  islands  in  the  dis- 
tance. 

St.  Andrew**,  with  a  population  of 
about  8,000,  is  at  the  north-east  ex-, 
tremity  of  Fassamaquoddy  Bay,  three 
miles  from  the  shores  of  the  United 
States,  near  Eastport,  in  Maine,  and  60 
miles  from  St.  John's.  A  railway  wiU 
connect  St.  Andrew's  with  Woodstock, 
80  miles  distant,  and  with  other  routes 
to  the  Ganadas. 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 

Novi.  Scotia,  the  ancient  Acadia,  including  the  Island  of  Cape  Breton  and 
Sable  Island,  lies  south-east  of  New  Brunswick,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the 
Bay  of  Fundy,  except  only  at  the  narrow  Isthmus  of  Ghignects.  It  may  be  reached 
at  Halifax,  its  capital,  by  the  British  steamers  from  New  York  and  Boston.  Tlta 
railways  now  in  progress  within  its  limits  will  soon  more  conveniently  unite  11 
to  the  cities  of  the  Ganadas  and  the  United  States.  The  area  of  the  Province  is 
18,746  square  miles,  including  the  8,000  of  Gape  Breton,  and  the  69  of  Sable 
Island.  The  shores  are  bleak,  and  often  very  rugged.  The  interior  is  diversified 
with  hills  and  valleys,  though  not  of  very  bold  character,  as  the  highest  land 
is  but  810  feet  above  the  sea.  The  numerous  lakes  cover  a  great  part  of  the 
Province.  The  soil  is  not  remarkably  productive,  excepting  the  fertile  lands 
upon  the  rivers  and  bays.  The  richest  portion  is  that  bordering  the  Bay  of 
Fundy.  The  most  thickly-settled  and  productive  region  is  that  about  the  Minas 
basin,  while  the  neighborhood  of  Halifax,  on  the  southern  coast,  is  the  most  im- 

3 


\ 


60 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


Oenenl  View— Halifluc. 


portant.  Much  of  Nova  Scotia  is,  like  New  Brunswick,  forest  land,  which  makes 
the  lumber  trade  very  large  and  productive.  This,  however,  is  not  the  only  in- 
dustry  of  the  people,  as  the  abundant  irrigation  of  the  vMej  lands  makes  agri- 
culture, especially  in  the  raising  of  grass,  very  remunerative.  Upon  the  coast, 
too,  many  people  are  occujded  in  the  extensive  fishing  trade,  which  has  been 
prosecuted  here  more  actively  than  upon  any  of  the  British  American  shores, 
excepting  only  that  of  Newfoundland. 

Thk  Coast  of  Nova  SoofkA. — ^The  greatest  length  of  Nova  Scotia  is  280 
miles,  and  the  greatest  breadth  120  miles.  The  south-east  coast,  in  a  dis- 
tance of  110  miles  only  from  Gape  Ganso  to  Halifax,  has  no  less  than  12  ports 
capacious  enough  to  receive  ships  of  the  line,  and  14  deep  enough  for  merchant- 
men. A  belt  of  rugged  broken  land,  of  the  average  height  of  600  feet,  formed 
of  gramte  and  primary  rock,  extencjls  along  all  the  Atlantic  shore,  from  Cape 
Ganso  to  Cape  Sable.  This  belt  varies  in  breadth  from  20  to  60  miles.  Similar 
formations  are  found  over  two-thirds  of  the  whole  Province.  From  Bear's  Island, 
off  Digby  Neck,  180  miles  to  Gapes  Split  and  Blomidon,  along  the  northern  coast 
on  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  there  is  a  ridge  of  fir-covered  frowning  precipices  of  trap 
rock,  which  overhang  ^e  waves  at  an  elevation  of  from  100  to  600  feet. 
These  magnificent  cliffs  are  picturesque  and  grand  in  the  extreme.  They  are, 
too  (which  is  something  in  this  utilitarian  age),  not  only  ornamental  but  use- 
ful, for  they  serve  to  protect  the  interior  from  the  terrible  fogs  of  the  bay. 

The  RrvERS  ahd  Lakes  and  BIts  or  Nova  Scotia. — ^The  lakes  here,  though 
generally  small,  are  almost  countless  in  number,  covering  the  whole  peninsula  as 
with  a  net-work  of  smiling  waters.  In  some  instances,  no  less  than  a  hundred 
are  grouped  within  a  space  of  20  square  miles  I  Lake  Rosignol,  the  largest  of 
the  region,  is  80  miles  long.  It  is  near  the  western  end  of  the  peninsula.  Great 
Lake  comes  next,  then  Gcmege  Lake,  eastward.  Mines  Bay  on  the  north  coast, 
the  eastern  arm  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  penetrating  60  miles  inland,  is  very  re- 
markable for  the  tremendous  tides  which  rush  in  here,  sometimes  to  the  height 
of  60  to  70  feet,  while  they  do  not  reach  more  than  from  6  to  9  feet  in  the 
harbor  of  Halifax,  directly  opposite;  these  are  the  spring-tides.  They  form 
what  is  called  the  bore.  The  Bays  of  St.  Mary's,  the  Gut  of  Ganso,  Townsend 
Bay,  George  Bay,  and  Cbedabucto  Bay,  in  the  western  part  of  the  Province, 
and  St.  Margaret^s  and  Mahone  Bays  on  the  south,  are  all  large  and  most 
interesting  waters. 


The  iknnapoUs  River  flows  into 
the  Bay  of  Fundy,  100  miles  from  the 
Garden  of  Acadia.  Besides  this  princi- 
pal river  there  are  many  others  naviga- 
ble for  a  greater  or  less  distance  f.-om 
their  mouths,  as  the  Shubenacadie, 
y^ich,  by  the  help  of  a  canal,  connects 
Cobequid  Bay,  from  the  Bay  of  Fundy 
on  the  north  side  of  the  peninsula,  with 
Halifax  Harbor  on  the  south  ;  the  Mus- 
ket and  the  Clyde  in  the  south-west  ex- 
tremity of  the  Province,  the  Mersey, 
the  Musquodoboit,  and  the  St.  Mary's. 
Indeed,  rivers  pour  their  waters  into 
all  the  many  bays  and  harbors  which 
so  thickly  stud  the  whole  line  of  these 
remarkable  coasts. 


Halifax,  the  Capital  of  Nova  Scotia, 
is  upon  the  south  coast  of  the  peninsulb, 
on  the  declivity  of  a  hill,  about  260  feet 
high,  rising  from  one  of  the  finest  Jiar- 
bqrs  on  the  continent.  The  streets  are 
generally  broad,  and  for  the  most  part 
macadamized.  Yiewed  from  the, water, 
or  from  the  opposite  shore,  the  city  is 
prepossessing  and  animated.  In  front, 
the  town  is  lined  with  wharves,  which, 
from  the  number  of  vessels  constantly 
loading  and  discharging,  always  exhibit 
a  spectacle  of  great  commercial  activity. 
Warehouses  nse  over  the  wharves,  or 
tower  aloft  in  different  parts  of  the 
town,  and  dwelling-houses  and  public 
buildings  rear  thcur  heads  over  each 


f  i 


NOVA  SCOTLL 


61 


Desoriptioii  of  HalUluc. 


^■^^i^"^^' 


s  ^;"  oea 


^w^g' 


HalUlu,  Nova  Bootta. 


Other,  as  they  stretch  along  and  up  the 
sides  of  the  hill.  The  spires  of  the  dif- 
ferent churches,  the  building  above  the 
town,  in  which  the  town-clock  is  fixed, 
a  rotunda-built  church,  the  signal-posts 
on  Citadel  Hill,  the  different  batteries, 
the  variety  of  style  in  which  the  houses 
are  built,  some  of  which  are  painted 
white,  some  blue,  and  some  red ;  rows 
of  trees  showing  themselves  in  different 
parts  of  the  town;  the  ships  moored 
opposite  the  dockyard,  with  the  estab- 
lishments and  tall  shears  of  the  latter ; 
the  merchant  vessels  aader  sail,  at  an- 
chor, or  along  the  wharves ;  the  wooded 
and  rocky  scenery  of  the  background, 
with  the  islands  and  the  small  town  of 
Dartmouth  on  the  east  shore — are  all 
objects  most  agreeable  to  see. 

Of  the  public  buildings,  the  chief  is  a 
handsome  edifice  of  stone,  called  the 
Province  Building,  140  feet  long  by  70 
broad,  and  ornamented  with  a  colon- 
nade of  the  Ionic  order.  It  comprises 
chambers  for  the  Council  and  Legisla- 
tive Assembly,  the  Supreme  Court, 
various  government  offices,  and  the 
public  library  of  the  city.  The  Govern- 


ment House,  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
town,  is  a  soUd,  but  gloomy-looking 
structure,  near  which  is  the  residence 
of  the  military  commandant.  The  Ad- 
miral's residence,  on  the  north  side  of 
the  town,  is  a  plain  building  of  stone. 
The  Dockyard,  which  covers  14  acres, 
and  forms  the  chief  depot  of  naval 
stores  in  the  British  North  American 
colonies,  is  reported  to  be  the  finest  in 
the  world,  if  the  works  of  a  similar 
kind  in  England  be  excepted.  The 
north  and  south  barracks  are  capable 
of  accommodating  three  regiments. 
There  is  also  a  MilHary  Hospital,  erect- 
ed by  the  late  Duke  of  Kent.  Dal- 
housie  College  is  a  handsome  edifice  of 
freestone.  The  Church  of  England  and 
the  Presbyterians  have  each  churches ; 
and  there  are  beside  a  Roman  CathoHo 
chapel,  and  several  churches  belonging 
to  different  -religious  denominations. 
There  are  two  private  banking  compa- 
nies in  the  town,  and  a  chamber  of 
commerce.  The  hotels  and  boarding- 
houses  are  not  of  the  highest  order. 
The  inhabitants  of  Halifax  are  intelli- 
gent and  social,  and  travellers  will  Ye< 


» 


; 


\, 


62 


NOTA  800nA. 


BUlikz. 


nuurk  a  tone  of  Booiety  here  more  de- 
cidedly Etu^lUh  than  in  moet  of  the 
other  oolonukl  cities.  ' 

The  luurbor  opposite  the  town  is  more 
tlwn  s  mile  wide,  and  has,  at  m^om 
tides,  a  depth  of  12  fiUhoms.  Aboat  a 
mile  abore  the  upper  end  of  the  town 
it  narrows  to  one-foorth  of  a  mile,  and 
then  expands  into  Bedford  Basin,  which 
has  a  surface  of  10  square  miles,  and  is 
completely  land-locked.  On  an  island 
opposite  the  town  are  some  strong 
mounted  batteries.  The  harbor  is  also 
defended  by  some  other  minor  fortifi- 
cations. 

Halifax,  CTer  irince  its  settlement  in 
1749,  has  been  the  seat  of  a  profitable 


fishery.  Its  trade,  which  is  in  a  rerv 
prosperous  condition,  is  principally  with 
the  West  Indies  and  other  British  colo- 
nies; with  the  United  Btetes,  and  the 
mother  countrr.  It  is  also  the  chief 
rendeivous  and  naval  depot  for  the  Brit- 
ish nayy  on  the  North  American  station. 
The  British  Government  having  made 
Halifkx  one  of  the  stopping-puces  of 
the  Ounard  line  of  steandiera,  in  their 
tripe  either  way  Across  the  Athmtic,  has 
added  greatiy  to'  its  importance  as  a 
maritime  city,  as  well  as  advanced  its 
commercial  prosperity. 

The  population  of  Halifia  is  about 
27,000. 


f^' 


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British  oolo- 
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THE  UNITED  STATES. 


Thb  gnnd  territory  of  th«  United  States,  throngb  whioh  we  propoM  to  itVfA  In 
our  present  volume,  oooupiee  no  meaner  area  thaa  that  of  2,980,1M  square  miles, 
soarcely  less  than  that  of  the  continent  of  Europe.  In  form,  it  is  nearly  a  paral* 
lelogram,  with  an  average  length  of  2,400  miles,  from  east  to  west,  and  a  mean 
breadth,  from  north  to  south,  of  1,800  miles.  Its  extreme  length  and  breadth 
are,  renteotlTely,  8,700  and  1,600  miles ;  reaching  from  the  Atlimtic  or  the  east, 
to  the  Pacific  oa  the  west;  from  British  America  on  the  north,  to  the  Oulf  of 
Mexico  and  the  Mexican  Republic  on  the  south.  Its  present  division  is  into 
thirty-one  States  and  nine  Territories,  including  the  District  of  Columbia.  The 
States  have  been  popularly  grouped  into  four  classes,  accordinr  to  their  geo- 
graphical position ;  as  the  Eastern  group,  or  *'  New  England,**  embracing  Mune, 
Kew  Hampshire,  Vermont,  Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island,  and  Connecticut ;  the 
**  Middle"  group  of  New  York,  New  Jersey,  Pennsylvania,  Delaware,  and  Mary- 
tend ;  the  **  Southern  States,**  Vir^nia,  North  Carolina,  South  Carolina,  QeorgiL 
Florida,  Alabama,  Misdbrippi,  Lotdsiana,  and  Texas;  and  the  "Western  States** 
of  Tennessee,  Kentucky,  Ohio,  Indiana,  Mnois,  Michigan,  Iowa,  Wisconsin,  Mis- 
souri, Arkaiuias,  and  Califomhi. 

All  the  Territories — ^Washington,  Oregon,  New  Mexico,  Utsh,  the  Indian, 
Kansas,  Nebraska,  and  Minnesota,  are  in(£ided  in  this  diviidon  of  the  country. 

POPULATION  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES  IN  186a 
•TheDtetriotffirOohmibla.    (D.O.t) (M,<8T 

THI  lASTIBM  OB  KXW  mOlAlID  STATU. 

Conneettont,    (Oonn.) 870,TM   New  Hunpthin,  (N.  H.) 817,970 

Bttodelslant^    (B.  L) 147,&4S    Termont,    (Vt) 814,1«) 

MaaMHshnaetts,    (Maas.)   ...; 994,614   lIalIl^    (Me.) 6884« 

TH>  MIDDtB  BTATIS. 

New  Tork,  (N.  T.) 8,097,894   PeonarlvMiis,  (Pa.) 8,811,788 

N«wJeney,(N.J.) 488,466   Delaware,  (Del) 90^«lt 

TBI  SOVTHBRN  8TATX8. 


•Maryland,  (Md.)  846,886 

•Vlrgliila,  (Va.)  1,888,649 

•North  Carolina,  (N.  C) 768,619 

•South  Carolina,  (S.  0.) 614,618 

•Georgia,  (Oa.)  768,618 


•  Stove  Statea 


•Florida,  (Pa.) 71,780 

•Alabama,  (Ala.) 684iU4 

•Louisiana,  .(Li.)  419,888 

•T«M8,(Tex.) 189«7 

•MlBshalppi,  (Miaa.) 488,i>74 


t  Abnvlationa  used  in  the  addreaa  of  letter*,  ete. 


in 


\ 


54 


iLinix. 

Oenanl  Bcmuk*— Rlran  and  LakM. 


TBI  WnmuW  VTATM. 


•ArkMUM,  (Ark.)l 191,001   Illlnoli,  (IlL) IBMIt 

*KmtuSiy\(tiy.) 89a,0ia    WiMOMiii,(Wli.) MOJM 


Ohio,  (0.) 1,980,497    Iowa,(Io.) 

IadUiik,(Iik) 988,416   •MtMoari, (Mo.) 

CWlfbniU,(OaL) 9«,B9T 


MlnBeMU,(Min.Tr.)..., 
NewMexlco,  (N.  M.T]r.) 

tItoh,(UtTy.) 

Oregon,  (Or.  Tjr.) 


Total, 


TIKBITORin. 

•   «,OTT   WaahlngtOB,  (Wat.  T^.) 
61,MT    N«bru£k  (Na.  Ty.) 
"   waiiJlKa. T7} 

«I,191,9M 


11^   Kanma,  (Ka.  Tr.) 

18,994   ladlaBTarritor:^, (Ind. Ty.) IST.lTl 


MAINE. 

Haini  is  the  extreme  eMteni  portion  of  New  England,  end  the  border  State  of 
the  Union  in  tliat  direction,  with  the  British  protinoe  oif  New  Bronswiclc  on  the 
north  and  nortb*east,  and  Canada  on  the  north-west.  It  has  three  distinct 
topographical  aspeots-^in  the  oomparatiTely  level,  and  somewhat  sandy  and 
marshy  character  of  the  eouthem  portion,  lying  back  SO  miles  from  the  Atlantic 
coasts — ^in  the  pleasant  hill  andTalley  features  of  the  interior,  and  in  the  ragged, 
mountainous,  and  wildemesf^  Vegions  of  the  north. 

A  great  portion  of  the  State  Is  yet  covered  by  dense  forests,  the  utilization  of 
which  is*  the  chief  occupation  and  support  of  its  inhabitants.  The  most  fertile 
lands  lie  in  the  central  southern  rejpons,  between  the  Penobscot  river  on  the 
east,  and  the  Kennebec  on  the  west,  and  in  the  valley  borders  of  other  waters. 
The  mountain  ranges  are  often  very  bold  and  imporing— one  summit,  that  of 
Katahdin,  having  an  elevation  of  6,886  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The 
lakes  are  very  numerous,  sometimes  of  great  extent,  and  often  very  beai^fbl, 
all  over  the  State;  and  more  especiidly  among  the  mountains  in  the  north. 
Indeed,  it  is  estimated,  that  one  tenth  part  of  the  whole  area  of  Maine  is  covered 
by  water.  The  rivers  are  numerous  and  large,  and  present  everywhere  scenes  of 
great  and  varied  beauty.  The  Atlantic  coast,  which  occupies  the  whole  southern 
One  of  the  State,  is  the  finest  in  the  Union,  in  its  remarkably  bold,  rocky 
character,  and  in  its  beautifhl  harbors,  bays,  islands,  and  beaches.  The  sea-islands 
of  Uaine  are  over  400  in  number ;  and  many  of  tbem  are  very  large  and  covered 
'  by  fbrUle  and  inhabited  lands.  The  climate,  though  marked  by  extremes,  both 
of  heat  and  cold,  is  yet  everywhere  most  healthful ;  and  its  rigor  is  much  modi- 
fied by  the  proximity  of  the  ocean. 

The  JHonntntna  and  Lakaa.  The  most  interesting  route  for  the  tourist  herie, 
is  perhaps  a  journey  through  the  hills,  lakes,  and  forests  of  the  north ;  but  we 
warn  him,  beforehand,  that  it  will  not  be  one  of  ease.  Rugged  roads  and  scant 
physical  comforts  will  not  be  his  most  severe  trial :  for,  in  many  places,  he  will 
not  find  road  or  inn  at  all,  but  must  trudge  along  painfiilly  on  foot,  or  by  rude 
sIcUf  over  the  lakes,  and  tiust  to  his  rifle  and  his  rod  to  supply  his  larder.  In 
these  wildest  regions  the  exploration  may  be  made  with  great  satisfaction  by 
a  party  well  provided  with  aU  needed  tent  equipage,  and  with  all  the  parapher- 
nalia of  the  chase ;  for  deer,  and  the  moose,  and  tiie  wild  fowl  are  abundant  in 
the  woods ;  and  the  finest  fish  may  be  freely  taken  in  the  water.  Still  he  may 
traverse  most  of  the  mountain  lands  and  lakes  ^  by  the  roads  and  paths  of  the 
lumbermen,  who  have  invaded  all  the  region ;  and  he  may  bivouac  as  comfortably 
as  should  content  an  orthodox  forester,  m  these  humble  shanties. 


...r 


MAXIfl. 
K»tah4iB-«a«»r  L<Mf— MooMhMd. 


68 


The  noontaiM  of  Maine  are  broken  and  diatinot  peaka.  A  range,  whioh  aeeint 
(o  be  an  Irregular  continuation  of  the  White  Hills  of  New  Hampahire,  extendi 
along  the  western  side  of  the  State  for  many  miles ;  and,  rerging  towards  the 
north*oast,  terminates  In  Mara  HIU.  This  chain  divides  the  waters  which  flow 
north  Into  the  St.  John's  river  from  those  which  pass  southward  to  the  Atlantie. 
Many  beautlAil  lakes  lie  within  this  territory. 


Mount  Katabdin,  Mttna. 


Mount  Katahdto,  with  its  peaks 
6,886  feet  above  the  sea,  la  the  loftiest 
summit  in  the  State,  and  Is  the  ultima 
Mtiie,  at  present,  of  general  travel  in 
this  direction.  The  ordinary  access  is 
In  stures  from  Bangor  over  the  Aroos- 
took Boa^,  starting  in  tolerable  coaches 
on  a  tolerable  road,  and  changing  al- 
ways, in  both,  from  bad  to  worse.  A 
pleasant  route  for  th$  aduenturer  is 
down  the  West  Branch  of  the  Penob- 
scot, in  a  canoe,  from  Moosehead  Lake. 
Guides  and  birches,  as  the  boats  are 
called,  may  be  procured  at  the  foot  of 
Moosehead,  or  at  the  Rineo  House,  near 
the  centre  of  the  lake.  By  this  ap- 
proach Eatahdin  is  seen  in  much  finer 
outlines  thau  from  the  eastward. 

Sogsr  Xioaf  Bfbimtaiii,  upon  the 
Sebools  river,  north-east  of  Mount  Eat- 
ahdin, is  nearly  2,000  feet  high,  and 
from  }t8  Buihmit  a  magnificent  view  is 
commanded,  which  embraces  some  fifty 


mountain  peaks,  and  nearly  a  score  of 
wonderAil  lakes.  Then  there  are  Blge> 
low.  Saddleback,  Squaw,  Bald,  OUead, 
the  Speckled  Mountain,  the  Blue  Moun- 
tain,and  other  height^more  or  less  noblik 
amidst  which  are  brooks  and  li^elets  and 
waterfalls  of  most  romantic  character. 

MooMhead  Laka,  the  Urgest  ia 
Maine,  is  among  the  northern  hills. 
It  is  86  miles  long,  and,  at  one  point, 
is  10  miles  in  breadth,  though  near  the 
centre  there  is  a  pass  not  over  a  mile 
across.  Its  waters  are  deep,  and  fiimieh 
ample  occupation  to  the  angler,  in  their 
stores  of  trout  and  other  fldi.  This 
lake  may  be  traversed  in  the  steam- 
boatiy;mployed  in  towing  lumber  to  the 
Kennebec.  A  summer  hotel  occui^es  a 
very  picturesque  rite  upon  the  shore. 
The  Kineo  House,  midway,  is  the  usuid 
stopping-pkce.  There  are  numerous 
isUmds  on  the  Moosehead  Lake,  some 
of  whioh  are  of  great  interest.    On  the 


\ 


50 


MAINS. 

The  Penobsoot  RlTer— Buigor. 


T 


irest  side  Mount  Eineo  overhftngs  the 
water,  at  an  elevation  of  600  feet.  Its 
summit  reveau  a  picture  of  forest  beauty 
well  worth  the  climbing  to  see.  Moose- 
head  is  16  miles  north  of  the  village  of 
Monson,  and  60  north>west  of  Bangor. 
The  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  from  Port- 
land to  Canada,  passes  very  near  the 
lake  on  the  west.  It  is  the  source  of 
the  great  Kennebec  river,  by  whose 
channels  its  waters  reach  the  sea. 

Iiako  UmlMgog  lies  partly  in  Maine 
and  yet  more  in  New  Hampshire.  Its 
length  is  about  12  miles,  and  its  breadth 
varies  fropti  1  to  6  miles.  The  outlet 
of  Umbagog  and  the  MargaUaway  river 
form  the  Androscog^n. 

Androiooggin  and  laooMtodkno- 
gnntio  Lakei  are  in  the  vicinity  of 
Umbagog. 

SetMigo  Pond,  a  beautiful  lake  12 
miles  long  and  from  7  to  8  miles  broad, 
is  about  20  miles  from  Portland,  on  a 
route  thence  to  Conway  andjithe  White 
Mountains.  It  is  connected  with  Port- 
land by  a  canal. 

The  Fenobsooti  the  largest  and 
most  beautiful  of  the  rivers  of  Maine, 
may  be  reached  daily  from  Boston  and 
Portland,by  steamer,as  far  up  as  Bangor, 
and  also  by  railway  fromPortland  toBan- 
gor.  It  is  formed  by  two  branches,  the 
east  and  the  west,  which  unite  near  the 
centre  of  the  State,  and  flow  in  a  general 
iouth-west  course  to  Bangor,  60  miles 
firam  the  sea,  and  at  the  head  of  naviga- 
tion. Large  vessels  can  ascend  to 
Bangor,  and  small  steamboats  navigate 
the  , river  yet  above.  At  Bangor  the 
tide  rised  to  the  great  height  of  17  feet, 
an  elevation  which  is  supposed  to  be 
produced  by  the  wedge-shaped  form  of 
the  bay,  and  by  the  current  from  the 
Gulf  Stream.  The  length  of  the  Pen- 
obscot, from  the  junction  of  the  east  and 
west  branch,  is  185  miles,  or  measuring 
firom  the  source  of  the  west  branch,  it  u 
800  miles ;  th  ugh,  as  far  as  the  tourist 
1b  concerned,  it  is  only  60  miles— %eing 
th^t  portion  between  Bangor  and  the 
ocean.  This  part,  then,  the  Penobscot 
proper,  ranks,  in  its  pictorial  attrac- 
tions, among  the  finest  river  scenery  of 
the  United  States.    In  all  its  course 


there  are  continual  points  of  great 
beauty,  and  very  often  the  shores  rise 
in  striking  and  even  grand  lines  and 
proportions.  We  have  met  tourists  who 
have  been  hardly  less  impressed  wi^ 
the  landscape  of  this  fine  river  than 
with  that  of  the  Hudson  even,  though 
we  do  not  admit  such  a  comparison. 

Bangor,  at  the  .head  of  tide  water 
and  of  navigation  on  the  Penobscot 
river,  60  miles  from  its  mouth,  h  one 
of  the  largest  cities  of  Maine,  ha>'ng  a 
population  of  more  than  20,000.  Steam- 
boats connect  it  daily  with  Portland 
and  Boston ;  and  it  is  reached  also  by 
the  Androscoggin  and  Kennebec,  and 
Penobscot  and  Kennebec  railways,  via 
Waterville,  on  the  Kennebec.  The  dis« 
tance  from  Bangor  to  Portland,  by 
railway,  is  135  miles.  Bangor  is  con> 
nected  with  Old  Town  (12  miles),  by 
railway,  and  another  road  is  contem- 
plated to  Lincoln,  60  miles  up  the  Pen- 
obscot valley.  The  Bangor  Theological 
Seminary,  founded  1816,  occupies  a  fine 
site  in  the  higher  portion  cf  the  city. 
The  chief  hotel  is  the  Bangor  House. 
The  "  speciality  "  of  Bangor  is  lumber, 
of  which  it  is  the  greatest  depot  in  the ' 
world.  All  the  vast  country  above, 
drained,  by  the  Penobscot  and  its  afflu* 
ents,  is  covered  with  dense  forests  of 
pine,  and  hemlock,  and  spruce,  and 
cedar,  from  which  immense  quantities  of ' 
lumber  are  continuaUy  cut  and  sent  from 
the  marvellous  saw-mills,  down  the  river 
to  market  at  Bangor.  During  the  eight  or 
nine  months  of  the  year  through  which 
the  navigation  of  the  river  is  open,  soma 
2,000  vessels  are  emplbyed  in  the  trans- 
portation of  this  freight.  The  whole 
industry  of  Bangor  is  not,  however,  in 
the  lumber  line,  as  she  is  also  engaged 
in  ship  building,  and  has  a  large  coast- 
ing trade,  and  a  considerable  foreign 
commerce. 

Belfast  and  Oastine  are  some  80 
inUesbelowBangor,  where  the  Penobscot 
enters  its  name-sake  Bay.  Belfast,  on 
the  west,  and  Castiue  on  the  east  shore, 
are  nine  miles  apart.  They  are  both 
small  ship-building  and  fishing  towns. 

The  IBennebeo  Kiver  is  in  the  west- 
em  part  of  the  State,  extending  from 


MAonc. 


5r 


The  Keanebeo  Btver  and  Town*— IConnt  D«wrt 


Moosehead  Lake,  160  miles  to  the  sea. 
It  makes  a  descent  in  its  passage  of 
1,000  feet,  thus  affording  a  great  and 
raluable  water-power.  The  scenery  of 
the  Kennebec,  though  pleasant,  is  &r 
less  striking  than  tliat  of  the  Penobscot 
Its  shores  are  thioldy  lined  with  towns 
and  Tillages,  among  which  is  Augusta, 
the  capital  of  the  State. 

Augurta  is  at  the  head  of  sloop  nav* 
igation  on  the  Kennebec,  48  miles 
from  its  mouth.  It  is  60  miles  N.N.E. 
of  Portland  by  ndlway,  and  69  S.W.  of 
Bangor.  Steamboats  run  hence  to  Port- 
land and  Boston,  calling  at  the  river 
landings.  The  city  is  chiefly  upon  the 
right  bank  of  the  river,  which  is  crossed 
here  by  a  bridge  520  feet  long ;  and  a 
quarter  of  a  i^e  above,  by  a  railroad 
bridge,  900  feet  in  length.  The  private 
residences,  and  some  of  the  hotels,  are 
upon  a  terrace,  a  short  distance  west  of 
the  river,  while  tiie  business  parts  of 
the  town  lie  along  shore.  The  State 
House  is  an  elegant  structure  of  white 
granite.  Its  site,  in  the  southern  part 
of  the  city,  is  lofty  and  very  pictu- 
resque ;  in  fipont  is  a  large  and  well-cared- 
for  park.  The  United  States  Arsenal, 
surrounded  with  extensive  and  elegant 
grounds,  is  upon  the  east  side  of  the 
river.  Here,  too,  is  the  Hospital  for  the 
Insane,  built  upon  a  commanding  and 
most  beautiful  eminence.  The  princi- 
pal hotels  here,  are  the  Stanley  House, 
the  Augusta  House,  and  the  Mansion 
House.  Augusta  is  upon  the  rdlway 
route  from  Portland  to  Bangor.  Popu- 
lation, 10,000. 

Hallowsll  is  a  pretty  village,  two 
miles  below  Augusta,  on  the  river,  and 
on  the  line  of  the  Kennebec  and  Port- 
land Sailway. 

Oatdiner  on  the  Kennebec,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Cobessecontee  Uter.  This 
point  is  the  head  of  ship  navigation  on 
the  Kennebec.  The  city  is  sevefi  miles  be- 
low Augusta,  and  6S  miles  from  Portland 
by  the  Kennebec  and  Portland  Rtdlway. 

WatervillA  is  on  the  Kennebec,  at 
the  Ticonic  Falls,  and  at  the  northern 
terminus,  of  the  Androscoggin  and  Ken- 
nebec Railway,  connecting  with  the 
Kennebec  and  Penobscot  fine.  It  is 
3* 


the  seat  of  Waterville  College,  a  proa* 

Erous  establishment,  oontr<med  by  the 
tptists. 

Bath,  aflourishine  dty  of  over  12,000 
peofde,  is  on  the  Kennebec,  12  miles 
from  ^e  sea;  80  miles  south  of  An<* 
ffusta ;  and  86  north-east  of  Portland. 
It  is  the  terminus  of  a  branch  road  from 
Brunswick,  on  the  Kennebec  and  Port  - 
land  Railway ;  and  is  connected  at  Lei« 
iston  with  the  Androscoggin  and|  Ken- 
nebec route  from  Portland  to  Bangor. 

Tb»  Jkiiclroaooggin  Riwar  is  a  fine 
stream,  flowing  fh>m  Lake  Umbagog, 
partly  in  New  Hampshire,  but  chie^ 
through  the  south-western  comer  of 
Maine,  into  the  Kennebec,  20  miles 
from  the  ocean. 

Bmnflwiok,  on  the  Androscogdn,  is 
27  miles  from  Portland  by  rauway. 
It  is  the  seat  of  Bowdohn  College,  which 
is  beautifolly  located  on  a  mgh  ter^ 
race,  near  the  edge  of  the  village. 
This  popular  institution  was  foimded  in 
1802.  The  Medical  School  of  Maine, 
which  is  connected  with  Bowdoin  Col- 
lege, has  a  very  valuable  library,  and 
anatomical  cabinet.  The  Androscoggin 
here  falls  60  feet  within  the  reach  of 
half  a  mile. 

BKbunt  DsMrt  ZUand.  A  summer 
trip  to  Mount  Desert  Island  has  of  late 
years  been  a  pleasant  treat  to  American 
landscape  painters,  and  a  virit  ihither 
might  be  equally  grateM  to  the  general 
tourist.  The  vigorous  and  varied  rock- 
bound  coast  of  New  England  can  be 
nowhere  seen  to  greater  advantage. 
Mount  Desert  Inland  is  an  ont-of^the-way 
nook  of  beauty  in  Frenchman's  Bay, 
east  of  the  mouth  of  the  Penobscot 
River.  It  is  40  mQes  from  Bangor, 
and  may  be  reached  from  Boston  by 
boat,  via  Rockville,  and  thence  by 
another  steamer,  on  to  Bucksport  (on 
the  Penobscot),  and  thence  by  stage 
via  Ellsworth,  or  from  Castine  on  the 
Penobscot  Bay,  hard  by.  If  the  visitor 
here  cannot  sketch  the  bold,  rocky 
cliflfs,  he  can  beguile  the  fish  to  his 
heart's  content. 

Baatport,  upon  the  waters  of 
Passamaquoddy  Bay,  at  the  extreme 
eastern  point  of  the  territory  of  the 


\ 


58 


MAnns. 


Eastport— Bontes  to  Portland. 


( 


Monnt  Desert  Island,  Mains. 


United  States,  is  well  deserving  of  a 
visit  from  the  tourist  in  quest  of  the 
beautiful  in  nature ;  for  more  charming 
scenes  on  land 'and  on  sea,  than  are 
here,  may  rarely  be  found. 

The  traveller  may  see  Eastport  and 
its  vicinage  and  then  go  home,  if  he 
pleases ;  for  it  is  the  jumping-off  place 
— 4he  veritable  Land-End — the  latitude 
and  longitude  beyond  which  the  stars 
and  stripes  give  place  to  the  red  cross 
of  England. 

Bsitport  is  234  miles  ^.E.  of  Port- 
land, and  is  reached  thence  and  from 
Boston  by  regular  steamboat  commu- 
nication. Steamboats  run  also  to  Oal- 
ais  and  places  en  routeyZQ  miles  above,  at 
the  head  of  navigation  on  the  St.  Croix 
River.  The  town  is  charmingly  built 
on  Moose  Island,  and  is  connected  jto 
the  mainland  of  Perry  by  a  bridge; 
and  by  ferries  with  Pembroke,  Lubeo, 
and  the  adjoining  British  Islands.  It  is 
not  a  very  ponderous  place,  the  popula^ 
tion  of  the  township  scarcely  exceeding 
6,000.  Fort  Sullivan  is  its  shield  and 
buckler  against  any  possible  foes  from 
without 


The  Pauamaquoddy  Bay  extends 
inland  some  16  miles,  and  is,  perhaps,. 
10  miles  in  breadth.  Its  shores  are 
wonderfully  irregular  and  picturesque, 
and  the  many  islands  which  stud  its 
deep  waters,  help  much  in  the  compo- 
sition of  pictures  to  be  enjoyed  and  re- 
membered. 

TO  POBTLAND,  MAINE. 

From  Boston,  10*7  miles  by  the  East- 
ern Railway,  via  Lynn,  Salem,  Newbury- 
port,  Portsmoutb,  N.  H.,  &o. ;  or  by  the 
Boston  and  Medne  route.  111  miles 
through  Reading,  Lawrence,  Andover, 
Haverhill,  Exeter,  Dover,  &c. ;  or  by 
steamer  daily.  * 

Prom  Montreal,  by  the  Orand  Trunk 
Railway.' 

Portluid|the  commercial  metropolis 
of  Maine,  is  handsomely  situated  on  a 
peninsula,  occupying  the  ridge  and  side 
of  a  high  point  of  land,  in  the  S.W.  ex- 
tremity of  Casco  Bay,  and  on  approach- 
ing it  from  the  ocean,  is  seen  to  great 
advantage.  The  harbor  is  one  of  the 
best  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  the  anchor- 
age beiug  protected  on  every  dde  by 


ICAINB. 


69 


Portland. 


PortUnil,  Maine. 


land,  whilst  the  water  is' deep,  and  com- 
munication with  the  ocean  direct  and 
convenient.  It  is  defended  by  Forts 
Preble  and  Scammel.  On  the  highest 
point  of  the  peninsula  is  an  observatory 
70  feet  in  height,  commanding  a  fine 
view  of  the  city,  harbor,  and  islands  in 
the  bay.  The  misty  forms  of  the 
White  Mountains,  60  miles  distant,  are 
discernible  in  clear  weather. 

This  city  is  elegantly  built,  and  the 
streets  are  beautifully  shaded  and  embel- 
lished with  trees ;  and  so  profusely,  that 
there  are  said  to  be  here  no  less  than 
8,000  of  these  rural  delights.  Congress 
street,  the  main  highway,  follows  the 
ridge  of  the  peninsula  through  its  entire 
extent.  Among  the  public  buildings  of 
Portland,  the  Oity  HaU,the  Court  House, 
and  some  of  the  churches,  are  worthy 
of  particular  attention.  The  Society  of 
Natural  History  possesses  a  fine  cab- 
inet, containing  specimens  of  the  or- 
nithology of  the  State,  more  than  4,000 
species  of  shells,  and  a  rich  collection 
of  mineralogicid  and  geological  ex- 
amples, and  of  fishes  an0  reptiles.  The 
Athenseum  has  a  library  of  8,000 
volumes,   and  the  Mercantile   Library 

Possesses,  also,  many  valuable  books, 
he  Portland  Sacred  Music  Society  is  an 
interesting  Association  here. 

The  AtUintic  and  St.  Lawrence  Rail- 
way oonneots  the  dty  with  Montreal,  in 


Canada,  and  thence  with  all  the  re^on 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  River.  Two  Unes 
of  railway  unite  it  with  Boston  and  the 
western  cities,  and  with  the  interior  of 
Maine,  at  Augusta  on  the  Kennebec,  and 
at  Baneor,  on  the  Penobscot  Rivers. 

Hotels.  The  American,  the  Elm,  and 
the  United  States. 

The  population  of  Portland  is  about 
28,000. 

Thb  Grand  Tbvnk  Railway,  Rocts 
FROM  Portland,  TSovik.  This  great 
thoroughfare  connects  the  navigable 
waters  of  Portland  harbor  with  the 
great  commercial  capital  of  Canada^ 
Its  route  passes  through  a  fertile  and 
productive  country,  generally  under 
fine  cultivation,  the  streams  in  its  vid* 
nity  abounding  in  water  privileges  of 
the  first  importance.  iVom Portlandit 
passes  onward  to  the  valley  of  Royal's 
River,  and  follows  up  the  valley  of  the 
Little  Androscoggin.  It  strikes  and 
crosses  that  river  at  Mechanic  Falls,  48 
miles  from  Portland,  at  which  place  the 
Buckfield  Branch  Railroad  connects 
with  it.  Pursuing  its  course  upward,  it 
passes  in  the  vicinity  of  the  "Mills**  on 
its  way  to' Paris  Cape,  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Norway  and  Paris,  drawing  in 
upon  it  the  travel  and  business  of  that 
rich  and  populous  region.  Still  follow- 
ing up  the  valley  of  the  Little  Andro- 
scoggin, passhig  on  the  way  two  import- 


\ 


60 


MASSAOHUHEFrB. 


Bonte  of  the  Onnd  Trank  BkOway. 


ant  falls,  it  reaches  Bryant's  Pond,  the 
sonroe  of  that  |riyer.  This  point  is  16 
miles  from  Rumford  Falls,  on  the  Ghreat 
Andrc^coggin,  one  of  the  greatest  and 
most  sTauable  irater-po,wer8  in  the 
State.  Passing  hence  into  the  valley  of 
Alder  stream,  the  rotate  strikes  the 
Great  Androscoggin,  near  Bethel,  a  dis- 
tance of  7!;  ^iles  from  Portland.  Gross- 
ing that  stream,  it  follows  up  its  pictu- 
resque and  romantic  valley,  bordered 
by  the  highest  mountains  in  New  Eng- 
land, till,  m  its  co^iuse  of  about  20  mi7.es 
from  Bethel,  it  reaches  Gorham  in  New 
Hampshire,  distant  from  the  bsss  of 
Mount  Washington  a  few  miles  only. 
From  this  point  that  celebrated  scene 
may  be  approached  and  ascended  with 
more  ease.  In  a  shorter  distance,  and 
less  time,  than  from  any  other  acces- 
sible quarter  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
White  Hills.  (See  routes  toWhite  Moun- 
tains.) This  point  also  is  only  five  miles 
distant  from  Berlin  Falls,  tlie  greatest 
waterfall  in  New  England,  where  the 
waters  of  the  Great  Androscoggin, 
larger  in  volume  than  the  waters  of  the 
Connecticut,  descend  nearly  200  feet  in 
a  distance  of  about  two  miles.  From 
the  valley  of  the  Androscog^n  the 
road  passes  into  the  valley  of  the  Con- 
necticut, reaching  the  banks  of  that 
river  in  the  region  of  Lancaster,  N.  H. 


Following  up  this  rich  and  highly 
productive  vaUey  about  86  miles,  the 
road  reaches  the  parallel  of  46°  N.  Lat., 
at  the  boundary  between  the  United 
States  and  Canada ;  continuing  theucsi 
to  Quebec,  and  up  the  St.  Lawrebce  via 
Montreal,  to  Toronto  on  Lake  Ontario, 
where  it  connects  with  other  routes  for 
Lake  Superior  and  all  parts  of  the  great 
West. 

Ii0Wlston  is  a  flourishing  manufactur- 
ing village,  containing  about  7,000 
inhabitants,  situated  upon  the  Andro- 
scoggin, midway  between  Portland  and 
Augusta,  on  the  Androscoggin  and  Ken- 
nebec Railway,  88  miles  north  of  Port- 
land. The  waterfall  here  is  one  of  ex- 
ceeding beauty.  The  entire  volume  of 
the  Androscoggin  is  precipitated  some 
60  feet  over  a  broken  ledge,  forming  in 
its  fall  a  splendid  specimen  of  natural 
scenery.  The  river  immediatelj-  below 
the  fall,  subsides  into  almost  a  uniform 
tranquillity  ,and  moves  slowly  and  grace- 
fully along  its  course,  in  strange  though 
pleanng  contrast  with  its  wild  and  tur- 
bid appearance  at  and  above  the  cata- 
ract. The  Androscoggin  and  Kennebec 
road  communicates  with  the  Grand 
Tihuik  Railway  at  Danville,  six  miles 
below  Lewiston,  and  with-  the  An- 
droscoggin road  at  Leeds,  11  miles 
above. 


MASSACHUSETTS. 

Tai  landscape  here  is  of  changefol  character,  and  often  strikingly  beautiful,, 
embracing  not  a  few  of  the  most  famous  scenes  in  the  Union.  £n  the  south- 
eastern part  of  the  State  the  surfiice  is  flat  and  sandy,  though  the  sea  coast  Is, 
in  many  places,  very  bold,  and  charmingly  varied  with  fine  pictures  of  rocky 
bluff  and  cliff.  It  abounds  in  admirable  summer  houses,  where  the  lovers  of  sea- 
breezes  and  bathing  may  find  every  means  and  appliance  for  comfort  and 
pleasure. 

In  the  eastern  and  central  regions,  the  physical  aspect  of  the  country,  though 
agreeably  diversified,  is  eclipsed  in  attraction  by  the  lavish  art-adornments  of 
crowding  city  and  viUage,  and  happy  homesteads,  nowhere  so  abundant  and  so 
interesting  as  here. 

The  Green  Mountains  traverse  the  western  portion  of  Massachusetts  in  two 
ridges,  lying  some  26  miles  apart,  with  picturesque  valley  lands  between.  Here 
are  the  favorite  summer  resorts  of  Berkshire,  and  other  parts  of  the  Housatonio 
region.  Saddle  Mountain,  8,606  feet,  is  a  spur  of  the  most  western  of  the  two 
ridges  we  have  mentioned,  known  as  the  Taconic  or  the  Taugkannio  hills. 


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Boatos  to  Bottoa  flrom  N«w  Tork. 


Mount  Watihington,  another  fine  peak  of  this  line,  has  an  altitude  of  S,624  feet. 
It  riiea  in  the  extreme  louthem  corner  of  the  State,  while  Saddle  Moulttain  itands 
aa  an  outpoat  in  the  north-weit  angle.  The  more  eaatem  of  the  two  hill-rangM 
here  is  called  the  Hooaio  Ridse.  Noble  isolated  mountain  peaks  overlook  tae 
winding  waters  and  Tallejs  of  the  Connecticut — some  of  them,  though  not  of  re- 
markable altitude,  commanding  scenes  of  wondrous  interest,  as  Mount  Holyoke 
and  Mount  Tom,  near  Northampton.  North  of  the  midoie  of  the  State  is  the 
Wachusett  Mountdn,  with  an  elcTation  of  2,018  feet. 

On  Hudson's  Brook,  in  Adams  Oounty,  there  is  a  remarkable  natural  bridge,  50 
feet  high,  spanning  a  limestone  ravine  600  feet  in  length.  In  New  Marlborough 
the  tourist  will  find  a  singular  rock  poised  with  such  marvellous  art  that  a  finger 
can  move  it ;  and  on  Farmington  River,  in  Sandisfleld,  he  will  delight  himself 
with  the  precipices,  800  feet  high,  known  as  the  Hanging  Mountdn. 

Massacnusetts  has  some  valuable  mineral  springs,  though  none  of  them  are 

E laces  of  general  resort.  In  Hopkinton,  mineral  waters  impregnated  with  car- 
onic  acid  and  carbonates  of  iron  and  lime ;  in  Winchenden,  a  chalybeate  spring, 
and  one  in  Shutesbury,  containing  muriate  of  lime.  But  we  need  not  make  Aiiw 
ther  mention  of  those  points  ot  uterest  here,  as  we  shall  have  occasion  to  visit 
them  oU,  under  the  head  of  one  or  other  of  the  group  of  New  England  States,  as 
we  follow  the  net-work  of  routes  by  which  they  may  be  reached. 

While  the  most  thoughtless  traveller  will  thus  find,  in  the  physical  aspect  of 
Massachusetts,  ample  sources  of  pleasure,  the  more  earnest  will  not  fail  to  draw 
yet  higher  delight  from  the  strongly-marked  morale  of  the  country.  Thoueh 
sn^all  in  area,  compared  with  some  other  States  of  the  confederacv,  it  is  yet,  in 
all  the  qualities  which  make  national  fame,  one  of  the  greatest  of  them  all.  No- 
where are  there  records  of  historical  incident  of  higher  sequence ;  nowhere  a 
more  advanced  social  position,  or  a  greater  intellectual  attainment ;  nowhere  a 
nobler  spirit  of  commercial  enterprise ;  nowhere  a  more  inventive  genius,  a  more 
indomitable  industry. 

In  Massachusetts,  more  than  in  any  other  section  of  the  Union,  the  dullest  per* 
ception  wiU  be  impressed  with  the  evidences  of  all  the  highest  and  best  character* 
istics  of  the  American  mind  and  heart,  those  wise  and  persistent  qualities, 
which  the  Pflgrim  Fathers  first  planted  upon  the  shore  at  Plymouth,  where 
the  history  of  the  State  began,  with  the  landing  of  the  May  Flower,  on  the 
memorable  22d  of  December,  1620 :  the  same  righteous  and  unyielding  nature 
which  commenced  the  struggle  for  the  national  independence,  in  I7t6,  at  Lex- 
ington  afld  Bunker  HilL 

Railways. — ^In  a  State  so  crowded  with  active  and  prosperous  cities  and 
homes  as  Massachusetts,  and  among  a  people  of  such  wonderful  will  and  energy 
and  ambition,  there  is,  of  course,  no  lack  of  railway  communication — ^that  great 
modem  test  of  national  enterprise ;  and  so  Massachusetts,  while  excelling  aU  her 
sister  States  in  every  phase  of  industrial  and  mechanical  achievement,  has  built 
(her  area  and  population  considered)  more  miles  of  railway  than  either  of  them. 
The  iron  tracks  cover  all  the  land,  uniting  all  parts  of  the  State  to  all  others,  and 
to  every  section  of  the  Republic.  We  rorbear  to  ^catalogue  these  routes  at  this 
point,  as  we  shall  follow  them  all,  closely,  in  our  visits  to  the  several  sections  of 
the  State. 


BOUTES  TO  BOSTON  FBOM  NEW  TOBK. 

RoTTTE  1.  RaUway  E^re»9. — ^Morn- 
ing and  afternoon,  from  New  Haven 
D6p6t,  Broadway,  and  from  cor.  of  4th 
av.  and  26th  St.,  via  New  Haven  and 


Hartford,  Springfield  and  Worcester. 
263  miles;  8i  hours;  $6  fare.    (Pat- 
senders  for  Frovidenee  change  eara  ai 
Hartford.) 
RocTK  2.  Stonington. — ^By  steamer, 


62 


MASSACHUSETTS. — COlTNBCrnCDT. 


New  York  to  New  Haven,  Hartford,  eto. 


daily,  from  pier  No.  2  North  River,  to 
Stonington,  Ct. ;  thence  by  railway, 
via  Providence,  R.  I. 

RocTi  8.  Fall  River. — Steamer,  ddly, 
at  6  p.  H.,  from  pier  No.  8  North  River, 
▼ia  Inewport,  R.  I.,  to. Fall  River,  Masa. ; 
theuce  by  railway. 

Routs  4.  Norwich  ^t^ti.- ■■Steamer, 
daily,  from  pier  No  1$  (Gortlandt  at.) 
North  River,  to  Allyn*8  Point,  Ot. ; 
thence  by  railway,  via  Norwich  and 
Worcester. 

The  most  expeditious  route  between 
New  Toric  and  Boston  is  that  which  we 
have  marlced  No.  1,  Railway  Egress — 
generally  called  in  New  York  the  "  New 
Haven  line."  The  time  on  this  route  is 
between  8  and  9  hours,  leaving  one  city 
in  the  morning  and  reaching  the  other 
in  the  afternoon,  or  leaving  in  the  after- 
noon and  arriving  before  midnight.  All 
the  other  routes,  by  steamboat  and 
railway,  occupy  the  night,  Parting 
about  6  p.  M.,  and  arriving  by  dawn 
next  day. 

The  New  Haven  route  (No.  1),  is  upon 
the  N.  T.  and  N.  H.  road  for  76  mUes, 
to  New  Haven  all  the  distance  along  the 
south  line  of  the  Stajie  of  Connecticut, 
near  the  shore  cf  the  Long  Island 
Sound.  To  William's  Bridge,  18  miles 
from  New  Tork,  the  track  is  the  same 
as  that  of  the  Harlem  R.  R.  to  Albany. 
Leaving  William's  Bridge,  we  pass  the 
pretty  suburban  villages  of  New  Ro- 
cheile,  Mamaroneck,  Rye,  and  Port 
Chester,  and  reach  Stamford  86  miles 
from  New  Tork.  Stamfn-d  is  near  the 
mouth  of  Mill  River,  and  is  a  favorite 

Elace  for  summer  residence.  The  popu- 
ition  in  i860  was  5,000. 
Norwalk  ^44  miles  from  New  Tork) 
is  a  pleasant  village  upon  Norwalk  river. 
The  Norwalk  and  Danbury  railroad,  24 
miles,  comes  in  at  this  point.  .flPhe  quiet, 
rural  beauties  of  Norwalk  make  it  one 
most  available  of  the  summer  homes  of 
Connecticut ;  particularly  %s  it  is  scarce- 
ly beyond  suburban  reach  of  New  Tork. 
Bridgeport,  58  miles  from  New 
York,  is  the  southern  terminus  of  the 
Housatonic  R.  R.,  which  traverses  the 
valley  of  the  Housatomc  110  miles  to 
PittdBeld,  Mass.    This  route  is  through 


the  most  picturesque  portions  of  Con- 
necticut and  Massachusetts-^the  west- 
em  or  mountain  regions.  (See  Vallev 
of  the  HotMotonie.)  The  Naugatuck 
R.  R.  extendti  hence  via  Waterbury  to 
Winsted.  Steamers  ply  between  New 
Tork  and  Bridgeport.  Bridgeport  is 
upon  an  arm  of  the  Long  Island  Sound, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Pequannock  River. 
A  terrace  height  of  60  feet,  occupied 
by  beautiful  private  manmons  and  cot- 
tages, commands  a  charming  view  of 
the  liownand  the  Sound.  Iraniatan,  the 
picturesque  residence  of  P.  T.  Barnum, 
is  about  1^  miles  west.  The  population 
of  Bridgeport  is  nearly  8,000. 

N«w  Havom,  76  miles  from  New 
Tork,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and 
most  interesting  places  in  New  England. 
It  is  known  as  the  City  of  Elms  in  a 
land  of  Elms,  fW>m  the  extraordinary 
number  of  beautiful  trees  of  this  species 
by  which  the  streets  are  so  gratefully 
shaded  and  so  charmin^y  embellished. 
New  Haven  is  a  semi-capital  of  Con- 
necticut. It  is  famous  as  the  seat  of 
Tale  College,  which  has  sent  out  more 
graduates  than  any  other  institution  in 
America.  The  buildings  of  the  College, 
which  occupy  nearly  a  square,  are 
among  the  chief  attractions  of  the  city ; 
especiaUy  the  apartments  devoted  to 
the  Fine  Arts,  and  occupied  by  the  large 
collection  of  the  works  of  the  eminent 
painter  Trumbull.  The  American 
Journal  of  Science  and  Art,  edited  by 
Professors  Silliman  and  Dana,%nd  other 
literary  periodicals,  are  published  here. 
Steamboats  connect  the  city  with  New 
Tork.  The  New  Haven  and  Northamp* 
ton  or  Canal  R.  R.  extends  76  miles  to 
Northampton,  and  the  New  Haven  and 
New  London  R.  R.  60  miles  to  New 
London.  Population  in  Sept.,  1868, 
was  about  23,000. 

Hartfordt — ^Leaving  New  Haven  our 
route  turns  northward  from  the  Sound, 
over  the  New  Haven,  Hartford,  and 
Springfield  R.  E.  Hartford,  a  semi- 
capital  of  Connecticut,  is  86  miles  from 
New  Havec  and  112  from  Nes,w  Tork, 
and  124  from  Boston.  It  is  upon  the 
right  bank  of  the  Connecticut  River, 
navigable  to  this  point  by  doops  and 


MAssACHusirrre. 


68  It 


ren  our 
Sound, 
'd,  and 
I  semi- 
es  from 

York, 
ton  the 

River, 
ips  and 


: 


Hartfbrd  to  Springfield  and  Worcester. 


v«.v,-R-s^- 


state  HooBe  and  Tale  College,  (New  Haven). 


small  steamboats,  60  miles  up  from 
Long  Island  Soimd.  Among  the  lite- 
rary and  educational  institutions  of 
Hertford  are  Trinity  College,  the  Wads- 
worth  Athenseum,  the  Connecticut  His- 
torical Society.  Among  its  chief  benev- 
olent establishments,  for  which  it  is 
famous,  are  the  American  Asylum  for 
the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  and  the  Retreat  for 
the  Insane.  That  old  historic  reUc,  the 
Charter  Oak,  held  in  so  much  reverence, 
stood  in  Hartford  until  1858,  when  it 
was  prostrated  by  a  violent  storm. 
Here  is  the  residence  of  the  distinguish- 
ed poetess,  Mrs.  L.  H.  Sigourney.  The 
population  of  Hartford,  in  1865,  was 
about  20,000.  Passengers  from  New 
York  for  Providence  ch&nge  cars  here, 
and  take  the  Providence,  Hartford,  and 
FishkiU  R.  R.,  90  miles  to  Providence. 

Springfield,  Mass.,  is  upon  the  Con- 
necticut River,  26  miles  north  of  Hart- 
ford, 98  miles  from  Boston,  and  188 
from  New  York.    The  U.  S.  Arsenal, 


located  here,  is  the  largest  in  the  Union. 
It  is  charmingly  perched  upon  Arsenid 
Hill,  looking  down  upon  the  beautiful 
town,  the  river,  and  the  fruitful  val- 
leys. This  noble  panorama  is  seen  with 
still  better  effect  from  the  cupola  which 
crowns  one  of  the  arsenal  buildings. 
This  establishment  employs  nearly  800 
hands,  and  1*75,000  stands  of  arms  are 
kept  constantly  on  hand.  This  is  a 
famous  gathering  point  of  railroads. 
The  Connecticut  Valley  routes  start 
hence,  and  furnish  one  of  the  pleasant- 
est  ways  from  New  York  to  the 
White  Mountains,  through  Northamp- 
ton, Brattleboro',  Bellows  Falls,  to  Wells 
River  and  Littleton,  N.  H.  (See  "  Val- 
ley of  the  Connecticut"  and  White 
Mountain  routes.  No.  10.)  The  West- 
em  railway  from  Albany  to  Boston 
passes  through  Springfield  also,  and 
continues  our  present  route  to  Worces- 
ter. Population  in  1850  about  20,000. 
Woroeater  is  a  flourishing  city  of 


64 


ICASSACHUSEI^. — conneohcut. 


.^:':i' 


The  StonlsgtOD  and  the  Fall  Biver  Boatea. 


20,000  people,  46  miles  from  Boston,  in 
the  centre  of  one  of  the  most  produc- 
tive agricultural  regions  of  Massachu- 
setts. It  is  also  a  place  of  esttensive 
manufactures.  Quite  a  net-work  of 
railways  connects  the  city  with  all  parts 
of  the  country.  The  Western  road, 
direct  from  Boston  to  Albany;  the 
Worcester  and  Nashua,  communicating 
through  other  routes  with  the  St.  Law- 
rence River;  the  Worcester  and  Provi- 
dence ;  the  Norwich  and  Worcester,  and 
the  Boston  and  Worcester,  which  we 
now  follow  to  the  end  of  our  present 
journey. 

The  Stonitufton  Boute^  (No.  2.)— This 
rout^,  as  well  as  Nos.  8  and  4,  by  Fall 
^ver  and  by  Norwich,  takes  us  from 
New  York  by  steamboat  around  the 
Battery  and  Castle  Garden,  along  the 
whole  eastern  line  of  the  city,  and  by 
the  cities  of  Brooklyn  and  Williams- 
burg, up  the  beautiful  East  Riv«r  by 
the  suburban  villages  on  the  Long  Isl- 
and shore,  by  Blackwell's,  Ward's,  and 
Randall's  Islands  (covered  by  the  public 


asylums  and  prisons),  through  the 
famous  passage  of  Hell  Gate,  and  up 
Long  Island  Sound — a  gallery  of  ad* 
mirable  pictures,  seen  as  th6y  are  from 
the  Boston  boats,  in  the  declining  even« 
ing  light. 

Stonington  is  in  Connecticut,  upon 
the  coast  near  the  eastern  entrance  to  the 
Sound.  Here  we  leave  the  steamer  and 
take  the  railroad,  60  miles,  through  R.  I. 
to  Providence,  thence  to  Boston,  43 
milJss,  by  the  Boston  and  Providence 
R.R.    (See  Providence  and  vicinity.) 

The  Fall  River  Rmde,  (No.  8.)--Ey 
steamer  on  Long  Island  Sound,  round 
Point  Judith,  and  up  Narragansett 
Bay  to  Newport,  R.  I.  (see  Newport), 
and  thence  to  Fall  River,  Mass.  From 
Fall  River  61  miles  to  Boston,  by  Old 
Colony  and  Fall  River  R.  R. 

Fall  River  is  a  thriving  town  of 
nearly  12,000  inhabitants  and  very  ex* 
tensive  manufactures.  It  is  at  the  en- 
trance of  Taunton  River  into  Mount 
Hope  Bay,  an  arm  of  the  Narragansett. 
The  historic  eminence  of  Mount  Hope, 


The  United  BUtes  Arsenal,  Sprlngflold. 


••/ 


yt' 


'%:, 


w 


•fi-  ■ 


I 


I  t 


"■■>■!  mumtmtMl^ 


■r<<»i-|»iililli,i  1  »l-''tfit-iff1il¥#ife"l>(ilrii-fi>ltlt 


I 

•5 


3' 


.3 


mi 


I 


'■<-<'-:a 


^;1 


MASSAOHUSBITS. 


66 


Nonrioh  Boato—Th*  Olty  of  Boston. 


the  home  of  King  Philip,  is  admirably 
seea  across  the  bay.  Steamboats  con- 
neot  Newport  with  Providence  by  this 
route,  via  Narragansett  Bay. 

Tki  Nwvnch  Jtoute,  (No.  4.)— This 
line  is  also  by  steamboat  from  New 
York,  via  Long  Island  Sound  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Thames  River,  which  it 
ascends  to  AUyn's  Point,  and  passen- 
gers there  take  oars  and  follow  the 
course  of  the  Thames  through  Connec- 
ticut, dir^ly  north  (O  Worcester; 
thence  with  other  lines  to  Boston. 

BOSTON  AND  YIOINITT. 

Boston  is  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing of  the  great  American  cities,  not 
only  from  its  position  as  second  in  com- 
mercial rank  to  New  York  alone,  but 
from  its  thrilling  traditionary  and  histori- 
cal associations,  from  the  earliest  days  of 
discovery  and  colonization  on  the  west- 
em  continent;  and  through  all  the 
trials  and  triumphs  of  the  childhood, 
youth,  and  manhood  of  the  Republic — 
from  its  dauntless  public  enterprise,  and 
from  its  high  social  culture  and  morals ; 
from  its  great  educational  and  literary 
facilities;  from  its  numerous  and  ad- 
mirable benevolent  establishments ; 
from  its  elegant  public  and  private  arohi* 
tecture,  and  from  the  surpassing  natu- 
ral beauty  of  all  its  suburban  landscape. 

Boston  is  divided  into  three  sections, 
of  Old  Boston,  East,  and  South  Bos- 
ton. The  old  city  is  built  upon  a  penin- 
sula of  some  Too  acres,  very  uneven  in 
surface,  and  rising  at  three  daVerent 
points  into  eminences,  one  of  which  is 
138  feet  above  the  sea.  The  Indian 
name  of  this  peninsula  was  Shawmut, 
meaning  "Living  fiountains."  It  was 
called  by  the  earlier  inhabitants  Tre- 
mont  or  Trimoontain,  its  sobriquet  at 
the  present  day.  The  name  of  Boston 
was  bestowed  on  it  in  honor  of  the  Rev. 
John  Cotton,  who  came  hither  from 
Boston  in  England.  The  first  white  in- 
habitant of  this  peninsula,  now  covered 
by  Boston  Proper,  was  the  Rev.  John 
BJackstone.  Here  he  lived  all  alone 
until  John  Winthrop — afterwards  the 
first  Governor  of  Massachusetts — came 
across   the    river    from   Charlestown, 


where  he  had  dwelt  with  flome  fellow< 
emigrants  for  a  short  time.  About 
1686  Mr.  Blackstone  sold  his  claim  to 
the  now  populous  peninsula  for  £80,  and 
removed  to  Rhode  Islands  The  first 
church  was  built  in  1682;  the  first 
wharf  in  1678.  Four  years  later  a  post- 
master was  appointed,  and  in  1*704 
(AprU  1*7),  the  first  newspaper,  called 
the  "Boston  News-Letter,"  was  pub- 
lished. 

A  narrow  isthmus,  which  is  now 
called  the  Neck,  joins  the  peninsula  of 
Old  Boston  to  the  main  land  on  the 
south,  where  is  now  the  suburb  of  Rox- 
bury,  connected  at  this  day  with  the 
city  by  numerous  broad  avenues.  Many 
bridges  link  Charlestown,  South  Boston, 
and  the  main  with  the  peninsula. 
These  structures  are  among  the  peculiar- 
ities of  the  place,  in  their  fashion,  their 
number,  and  their  length.  The  first 
one  wUch  was  bmlt  was  that  over 
Charles  River  to  Charlestown,  1,603  feet 
long.  The  Old  Cambridge  Bridge, 
across  Qiarles  lUver  to  Cambridge 
Road,  is  2,768  feet  in  length,  with  a 
causeway  of  8^482  feet.  The  South 
Boston  B^dge,  which  leads  from  the 
Neck  to  South  Boston,  is  1,660  feet  long. 
The  Canal  Bridge  between  Boston  and 
Lechmere  Poin^  is  2,796  feet,  and  from 
its  centre  another  bridge  extends  1,820 
feet,  to  Prison  Point,  Charlestown. 
Boston  Free  Bridge  to  South  Boston  is 
600  feet;  and  Warren  Bridge  to 
Charlestown  is  1,890  feet.  Besides 
these  bridges,  a  causeway  of  a  mile  and 
a  half  extends  from  the  foot  of  Beacon 
street  to  Sewell's  Pomt,  in  Brookline. 
This  causeway  is  built  across  the  bay 
upon  a  substantial  dam.  Other  roads 
lead  into  Boston  over  especial  bridges, 
besides  which  the  city  is  connected 
with  the  main  by  many  steam-ferries. 
Thus  the  topography  of  Boston  is  quite 
anomalous  as  a  mountain  city  in  the  sea  I 

South  Boston  extends  some  two  miles 
along  the  south  side  of  the  harbor,  from 
Old  Boston  to  Fort  Independence. 
Near  the  centre,  and  two  miles  from 
the  State  House,  are  Dorchester  Heighta, 
the  memorable  battle  ground  where,  in 
the  Revolution,  the  enemy  were  drive  \ 


66 


HASSAOHUSETTS. 


Points  of  Interest  in  Boston. 


I 


from  Boston.  A  fine  view  of  the  city, 
of  the  Ticinity,  and  t^e  sea,  may  be 
obtained  from  these  Heights.  Here, 
too,  is  a  large  reservoir  of  the  Boston 
water  works. 

Eaat  Boston  is  upon  the  western  part 
of  Noddle's  Island.  This  island  was 
the  homestead  of  Samuel  MaTeriok, 
while  John  Blacketone  was  sole  monarch 
of  the  peninsula,  1680.  Here  is  the 
wharf,  1,000  feet  long,  of  the  Ounard 
line  of  British  steamships.  East  Boston 
is  the  terminus,  also,  of  the  Grand 
Juncdon  Railway.    Chelsea  is  near  by. 

The  streets  of  Boston,  which  grew  up 
according  to  circumstances,  are  many 
of  them  very  intricate,  and  troublesome 


to  unravel,  a  diflBculty  which  is  being 
gradually  obviated  in  a  degree.  The  fash* 
ionable  promenades  and  shopping  ave- 
nues  are,  first,  Washington  street  and 
then  Tremont  street. 

Boaton  Common  is  a  large  and  charm- 
ing public  park  in  the  old  city,  and  is, 
very  justly,  the  pride  of  the  people  and 
the  admiration  of  strangers.  It  cou" 
tains  nearly  60  acres,  of  every  variety 
of  surface,  up-hill  and  down,  and 
around,  all  covered  with  limiting  walks, 
grassy  lawns,  and  grand  old  trees.  A 
delicious  pond  and  fountain  occupy  a 
central  point  in  <  the  grounds,  and 
around  them  are  many  of  the  old  man- 
sions of  the  place — ^led,  on  the  upper 


Boston  Common. 


hill,  by  the  massive,  dome-surmounted 
walls  of  the  State  Capitol.  The  Common 
drops  from  Beacon  street,  the  southern 
declivity  of  Beacon  Hill,  by  a  rapid  de- 
scent to  Charles  River. 

Faneuil  HM.  This  famous  edifice, 
called  the  "  Cradle  of  Liberty,"  is  in 
Dock  niquare.    It  is  about  109  years 


old,  and  is  an  object  of  deep  interest 
to  Americans.  Here  the  fathers  of 
the  Revolution  met  to  harangue  tho 
people  on  the  events  of  that  stirriug 
period ;  and  often  since  that  time  the 
great  men  of  the  State  and  nation  have 
made  its  walls  resound  with  their  elo- 
quence.    It  was  presented  to  the  city 


byPd 

chanlf 

made 

buildl 

that 

as  a 

build 

and 

exce^ 

8paci| 

it,  an 

In  c| 

the 

his  n| 

ther 

that 

bed^ 

and 

othed 


MASSAOHnSSm. 


B7 


City  of  Boeton. 


Fanenil  HalL 


by  Peter  Faneuil,  a  distinguished  mer- 
chant, who,  on  the  4th  of  July,  1740, 
made  an  offer,  in  a  town-meeting,  to 
build  a  market-house.  There  being,  at 
that  time,  none  in  the  town,  it  was, 
as  a  matter  of  course,  accepted.  The 
building  was  begun  the  following  year, 
and  finished  in  1742.  fhe  donor  so  far 
exceeded  his  promise,  as  to  erect  a 
spacious  and  beautiful  Town  Hall  over 
it,  and  several  other  convenient  rooms. 
In  commemoration  of  his  generosity, 
the  town,  by  a  special  vote,  conferred 
his  name  upon  the  Hall ;  and,  as  a  fur- 
ther testimony  of  respect,  it  was  voted 
that  Mr.  Faneuil^s  full-length  portrait 
be  drawn  at  the  expense  of  the  town, 
and  placed  in  the  Hall.  This,  with 
other  pkitures,  can  be  seen  by  visitors. 
7%e  State  House  is  on  the  summit  of 
Beacon  Hill,  and  fronting  the  *' Com- 


mon." Its  foundation  is  110  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  Length  178  feet,  ■ 
breadth  61.  The  edifice  was  completed 
in  1798,  at  a  cost  of  $138,330,  about 
three  years  having  been  occupied  in  its 
construction.  On  the  entrance  floor  is 
to  be  seen  Ghantrey's  statue  of  Wash- 
ington. Near  by  is  the  staircase  leading 
to  the  dome,  where  visitors  are  required 
to  register  their  names,  and  from  the 
top  of  which  is  obtained  a  fine  view  of 
the  city,  the  bay,  with  its  islands,  and 
the  country  around. 

77ie  Exchange^  on  State  street,  was 
completed  in  the  fall  of  1842.  It  is  70 
feet  high  and  250  feet  deep,  covering 
about  13,000  feet  of  ground.  The  front 
is  built  of  Quincy  granite,  with  four 
pilasters,  each  45  feet  high,  and  weighing 
55  tons  each.  The  roof  is  of  wrought 
iron,  and  covered  with  galvanized  sheet 


4 


■  f 

08 


MAMAOHUHKITB. 
Boaton— Ounbrldga. 


Iron;  and  all  the  principal  staircases 
are  fire-proof,  being  constructed  of 
■tone  and  iron.  The  centre  of  the 
basement  storv  is  occupied  by  the 
Poet  Oilice.  The  great  central  hall,  a 
magnificent  room,  ia  hs  by  80  feet, 
ha^g  18  rery  beautiful  columns  in 
imitation  of  Sienna  marble,  with  Oorin- 
thian  capitals,  and  a  sky-light  of  colored 
glass,  finished  in  the  most  ornamental 
manner.  This  room  is  used  for  the 
merchants*  exchange  and  subscribers* 
reading  room. 

2%e  Outtom  Houae  is  located  at  the 
foot  of  State  street,  between  the  heads 
of  Long  and  Central  whartes.  It  is  in 
the  form  of  a  cross ;  the  extreme  length 
being  140  feet,  breadth  96  feet.  The 
longest  arms  of  the  cross  are  76  feet 
wide,  and  the  shortest  67  feet,  the  op- 
posite fronts  and  ends  being  alike.  The 
entire  height  to  the  tot  o^  tiie  dome  is 
00  feet. 

l%e  Court  /ToiMf,  a  llne<ibuilding  in 
Court  square,  flronting  on  Court  street, 
is  built  of  Quincy  gruiite. 

7%e  CfUv  Hall  1a  near  the  Court 
House,  and  fronting  on  School  street, 
with  an  open  yard  in  front.  Here,  in 
September,  1866,  a  colossal  bronze 
statue  of  Beqjamin  Franklin,  who  was 
a  native  of  Boston,  waa  erected,  with 

S»at  public  parade  and  r^oioing.  This 
e  work  waa  modelled  by  R.  B.  Green- 
ouffh,Esq.,  a  brother  of  the  distinguished 
acmptor,  Horatio  Qreenough. 

7ne  Mtutaehusetta  Ho$pit<U  covers  an 
area  of  four  acres  on  Charles  street, 
between  Allen  and  Bridge.  Near  by,  at 
the  foot  of  Bridge  street  is  the  Mass. 
Medical  College.  The  Boston  Music 
Ht  'J  fronts  On  Winter  street  and  Bum- 
stead  plac.*). 

l%e  Bo^on  Athenenim  occupies  an 
imposing  edifice  on  Beacon  near  Tre- 
mont  street.  It  was  incorporated  in 
1807,  and  is  one  of  the  best  endowed 
literary  establishments  in  the  world. 
There  are  in  the  library  60,000  volumes, 
and  an  extensive  collection  of  manu- 
scripts. The  AthensBum  possesses  a 
fine  gallery  of  paintings,  in  connection 
with  which  the  annual  displays  of  the 
Boston  artists  are  made. 


7%«  Ma$$aehuteU$  IlintoriecU  Soeiety^ 
organized  in  1794,  possesses  12,000  vol- 
umes, and  many  valuable  manuscripts, 
coins,  charts,  maps,  Ac.  The  Boston 
Library  Society  was  founded  in  1794, 
and  has  a  collection  of  14,000  volumes. 
The  American  Academv  of  Arts  and 
Sciences,  one  of  the  oldest  societies  of 
the  Idnd  in  the  country,  has  16,000 
volumes.  It  occupies  an  apartment  in 
the  Athennum.  Besides  these  Ubraries 
Boston  has  many  others,  as,  the  State 
Library,  the  Bowditch,  the  Social  Law 
Library,  &o. 

The  Lowell  Jnttitute  provides  for 
regular  courses  <^  free  lectures  upon 
natural  and  revealed  religion,  and  many 
scientific  and  art  topics.  We  may  men- 
tion, also,  among  literary,  scientific, 
and  art  societies  of  the  city,  the  Ly- 
ceum, the  Natural  History,  the  Ameri- 
can Oriental,  the  American  Statistical, 
the  Musical  Educational,  and  the  Handel 
and  Haydn  Societies,  and  the,  Boston 
Academy  of  Music. 

Harvard  UnivertU^,  This  venerable 
seat  of  learning  is  at  Cambridge,  three 
miles  from  the  city  of  Boston.  It  was 
founded  in  1688,  by  the  Rev.  John 
Harvard.  The  Univerrity  embraces, 
besides  its  collegiate  department,  law, 
medical,  and  theolo^cal  schools..  The 
buildbigs  are  16  in  number,  all  located 
in  Cambridge,  except  that  of  the  medi- 
cal school  in  North  Grove  street,  in 
Boston. 

The  Old  Waahington  Head-Quartert, 
at  Cambridge,  knOwn  oa  the  Cragie 
House,  where  the  poet  Henry  W.  Long- 
fellow has  resided  for  many  years,  la 
near  the  Harvard  University.  It  was 
at  Cambridge  that  the  painter,  Wash- 
ington Allston,  lived  and  died. 

Boston,  always  so  much  distinguished 
for  its  literary  character,  as  to  have 
won  the  name  of  the  Athens  of  America, 
has,  besides  its  innumerable  libraries 
and  institutions  of  learning,  more  than 
a  hundred  periodical  pubucations,  and 
newspapers,  dealing  with  all  themes  of 
study,  and  all  shades  of  opinion  and 
inquiry. 

The  churches  of  the  city  are  numer- 
ous, as  might  be  expected  of  the  home 


MASSAOHUSErcrS. 


1^'' 


Boaton  Hotcla  and  Thr-;trM— Bnnkw  Hill— Mount  Anbnn. 


ISoeiet^t 
1,000  vol- 
luacfiptf, 
)  Boston 
in  1*784, 
Tolumei. 
Irts  and 
sietiea  of 
ts  15,000 
rtment  in 
I  Ubrariei 
the  State 
>eial  Law 

rides  for 
tres  upon 
and  many 
may  men* 
soientifio, 
■,  the  Ly- 
tic Ameri- 
Statistical, 
be  Handel 
le,  Boston 

venerable 
ge,  three 

It  WAS 

IT.  John 
mbraces, 
ent,  law, 
ols..  The 
located 
the  medi- 
street,  in 

[Quarfert, 
le  Gragie 
|W.  Loni 


I  years, 

It  was 
ir,  Wash- 

Ingoished 
to  have 

{America, 
libraries 

lore  than 

Ions,  and 
lemes  of 
ion  and 

nnmer- 
lie  home 


Bank«r  Hill  Moanmentt 


of  the  Puritans.  They  are  more  than 
100  in  number— the  Unitarians  having 
the  largest  share.  Many  of  the  churches 
are  very  costly  and  imposing  edifices. 
The  oldest  is  Ghrist  Church,  built  in 
1*728,  and  the  next  hi  the  famous  *'  Old 
South,"  erected  in  1*780.  This  is  a 
buildine  of  great  historical  interest. 

HoteU.  The  most  fashionable  are 
the  Tremont  House,  on  Tremont  street 
the^Revere  House,  on  Bowdoin  square 
the  Winthrop  House,  Tremont  street 
the  American  House,  Hanover  street 
the  Adams ;  the  United  States,  &;c, 

I^atrea.  The  Boston  Theatre,  861 
Washington  street ;  the  Howard  Athe- 
lUBum,  Howard  street,  the  Museum,  Tre- 


mont street;  the  National  Theatre, 
comer  of  Portland  and  Travers  street ; 
Ordway  Hall,  Ac. 

Bnoker  EBU  Monnnnmt,  commemo- 
rative of  the  eveiltM  battle  fought  on  the 
spot,  is  in  Charlestown.  The  top  of  tills 
structure  commands  a  magnificent  view, 
embracing  a  wide  extent  of  land  and 
water  scenery.  The  journey  up  is  some- 
what tedious,  traversing  nearly  800  steps 
— ^yet  this  is  forgotten  in  the  charming 
scene  and  delightful  air  which  repay  the 
visitor.  Near  at  hand  is  the  United 
States  Navy  Yard,  containing,  among 
other  things,  a  rope-walk— 4he  longest 
in  the  country. 

Mount  AabnmOenietery,  about  A 


V 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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» 

Hiotographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WIST  MAIN  STREiT 

WIBSTER.N.Y.  I45t0 

(716)«72-4903 


4^ 


) 


4^' 


70 


MASSACHUSKIIB. 


Snbnrbaa  towna  of  Boston. 


t^ 


'■ 


mile  from  Harvard  University,  and 
about  four  froiki  Boston,  by  the  road 
from  Old  Cambridge  to  Watertown.  It 
is  the  most  beautiful  of  American  rural 
bur^g-places,  embellished'  by  land- 
scape, and  horticultural  art  and  taste, 
and  by  a  most  picturesque  chapel,  and 
many  elegant  and  costly  monuments. 
Its  walks,  and  lanes,  and  lawns  make  it 
the  most  delightful  of  all  the  resorts  in 
the  vicinage  of  the  city.  Gars  run  from 
the  station  in  Bowdoin  square,  every 
16  minutes,  during  the  day,  and  until 
half-past  eleven  o'clock  at  night.  Mr. 
Ciuhing't  Garden,  a  place  of  great 
beauty,  is  a  short  distance  beyond 
Mount  Auburn,  in  Watertown.  Tickets 
may  be  obtained  gratis  on  application  at 
the  Horticultural- Store  in  School  street. 
—FreshPomd,  another  charming  place 
of  resort,  is  about  four  miles  from 
Boston,  and  half  a  mile  from  Mount 
Auburn ;  it  is  reached  by  the  railroad 
cars,  which  leave  Charlesrown  many 
times  during  the  day.  ^arel2i  cents. — 
The  other  fine  sheets  of  water  in  the 
vicinity  of  Boston,  well  worthy  the  atten- 
tion of  visitors,  are  ITom,  8pot,  Spy,  and 
Mystic  Ponds. 

WATEEINO  AND  OTHEE  PLACES  IN 
THE  VICINITY  OF  BOSTON. 

Nahant,  a  delightful  wrtering-place, 
is  situated  about  X2  miles  from  Boston, 
by  water,  and  14  by  land.  During  the. 
summer  season,  a  steamboat  plies  daily. 
Fare  25  cents.  This  is  a  most  agree- 
able excursion,  affording  an  opportunity, 
in  passing  through  the  harbor,  for  see- 
ing some  of  the  many  beautiful  islands 
with  which  it  is  studded.  Nahant  may 
also  be  reached  by  taking  the  Eastern 
Railway  oars  as  far  as  Lynn,  and  thence 
walking  or  riding  a  distance  of  three 
mUes,  along  the  hard  sandy  beach,  in 
full  view  of  the  open  sea ;  or  by  omni- 
buses, which  intersect  the  railroad  cars, 
at  Lynn,  several  times  daily. 

The  peninsula  is  divided  into  Oreat 
and  Little  Nahant,  and  Bass  Neck.  The 
former  is  the  largest  division,  contain- 
ing 800  acres — a  part  of  which  is  under 
cultivation — many  handsome  dwellings, 
and  a  spacious  hotel,  with  a  piazza  on 


each  floor.  From  this  place  the  visitor 
has  a  boundless  sea-coast  view. 

On  the  south  side  of  Oreat  Nahant  is 
the  dark  cave  or  grotto,  called  the 
Swalhw'a  Cave,  10  feet  wide,  6  fee^ 
high,  and  70  long,  increasing  in  a 
short  distance,  to  14  feet  in  breadth, 
and  18  or  20  in  height.  On  the  north 
shore  of  the  penins^  is  a  chasm  20  or 
80  feet  in  depth,  called  the  Spouting 
ITom,  into  which,  at  about  half  tide, 
the  water  rushes  with  great  violence 
and  noise,  forcing  a  jet  of  water  through 
an  aperture  in  the  rock  to  a  consider- 
able  height  in  the  ur. 

Philip's  Beaoh,  a  short  distance 
north-east  of  Nahant,  is  another  beau- 
tiiul  beach,  and  a  noted  resort  for  per- 
sons in  search  of  pleasure  or  health. 

Nantaaket  Beaoh,  12  miles  from 
Boston,  is  situated  on  the  east  side  of 
the  peninsula  of  Nantasket,  which  forms 
the  south-east  side  of  Boston  Harbor, 
and  comprises  the  town  of  Hull.  The 
beach,  which  is  remarkable  for  its 
great  beauty,  is  four  miles  in  length, 
and  celebrated  for  its  fine  shell-fish,  sea- 
fowl,  and  good  bathing. 

Chelsea  Beaofa^  about  three  miles  in 
length,  is  situated  in  the  town  of  Chel- 
sea, and  is  another  fine  place  of  resort. 
A  ride  along  this  beach  on  a  warm  day 
is  delightful.  It  is  about  five  miles  from 
Boston,  and  may  be  reached  by  crossing 
the  ferry  to  East  Boston. 

liytm  is  nine  miles  from  Boston,  on 
the  Eastern  Railroad.  It  is  charmingly 
situated  on  the  north-east  shore  of  Massa- 
chusetts Bay,  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  Nahant,  and  is  a  famous  fi&ce  for  the 
manufacture  of  ladies'  shoes.  This  busi- 
ness, here,  employs  ISO  establishments 
and  10,000  hands,  half  of  whom  are 
females.  It  is  estimated  that  4,600,000 
pairs  of  ladies'  and  misses'  nhoes  are 
made  here  every  year,  amounting,  in 
value,  to  $8,600,000.  Besides  the  pro- 
duct of  the  city,  another  half  a  milUon 
pairs  are  made  in  the  neighborhood. 

Salem  is  a  beautiful  city,  16  miles 
from  Boston,  by  the  Eastern  Rail- 
road. It  extends  about  two  miles  along 
and  three  quarters  of  a  mile  across  the 
peninsula  formed  by  the  north  and  the 


ce  the  visitor 
new. 

eat  Nahant  is 
),  called  the 
wide,  6  fee^ 
•easing  in  a 
i  in  breadth, 
On  the  north 
L  chasm  20  or 
the  Spouting 
rat  half  tide, 
reat  violence 
rater  through 

0  a  consider- 

lort  distance 
mother  beau* 
esort  for  per- 
or  health. 
i  miles  from  - 
!  east  side  of 
:,  which  forms 
ston  Harbor, 
tfHuU.  The 
cable  for  its 
es  in  length, 
ihell-fish,  sea* 

three  miles  in 
own  of  Chel- 
ace  of  resort. 

1  a  warm  day 
ve  miles  from 
id  by  crossing 

m  Boston,  on 
is  charmingly 
boreofMassa* 
idiate  vicinity 
3  place  for  the 
>is.  This  busi- 
stablisbments 
of  whom  are 
hat  4,500,000 
les'  nhoes  are 
imounting,  in 
sides  the  pro- 
half  a  milUon 
hborhood. 
iity,  16  miles 
i!abi.ern  Rail- 
ro  miles  along 
lile  across  the 
lorth  and  the 


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■ovIhrtTW*^  II Is dlirtliuroiihtd fiw Iti 
MtaffMnr  iMtltotlonai  and  for  ill  oomiiMr- 
etol  MterariM.  Next  to  Ptymonth,  U 
If  tht'  oldMt  town  !■  New  logfauid. 
Mow  wu  the  oUflf  MOM  of  the  **  wheli' 
oraft**  iii»dn««  In  169S.  Upon  0«1> 
lowi  Hqt^  flno  filnenoo  ororiooklM 
the  dt^l9  pmoM  of  the  town  end 
the  ndghbormod  were  ezeonted  fiNr  tUe 
■uppoeed  erime. 

Selem  le  alio  dlstfaicaidied  tat  tte 
■enrioee  In  the  war  of  the  BoTohition. 
MmMdmi  Is  18  nJles  from  Salsm,  bj 
a  braooh  road. 

Bsiwegly  Is  upon  an  arm  of  Ann 
Harbor,  two  miles  from  Salem,  with 
which  It  Is  connected  by  a  bridge  of 
1,600  feet,  and  ft«m  Boston  18  mOes, 
Tia  Eastern  Bidhttad. 

Weahaa.  22  miles  from  Bostmi,  via 
Bastem  Bailway.  Wenham  Pond,  a 
beantiM  sheet  of  water,  about  a  mile 
squarft,  affords  abundance  of  excdlent 
flsh,  and  Is  much  Tlslted  by  persons 
fond  of  angling.  It  Is  slso  noted  fw 
the  quality  and  quantity  of  its  lee,  a 
\ufgi  amount  of  which  Is  yearly  ex> 
ported. 

Kevboryport,  IbuMk,  86  miles  from 
Boston,  Tia  Eastern  Bailroad,  Ues  on  a 

Sntle  acollTity.  on  the  south  bank  of 
e  Merrimao  BiTcr,  near  ijbi  union  with 
the  Atlantic.  It  is  considered  one  of 
the  most  beautiftd  towns  In  New  Eng^ 
land.  In  consequence  of  a  sand'bar  at 
the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  its  fordni 
commerce  has  greatly  declined.  The 
oblebrated  Qeorge  Whitelleld  cUed  in 
this  town  in  September,  1*770. 

SnUsbaiy  Penoli,  celebrated,  for  its 
beauty  and  salubrityi  is  much  TUted 
during  the  warm  season.  B  Is  from 
ftur  to  fiTc  miles  distant  firom  Newbury- 
port. 

Hampton,  48  miles  from  Boston,  ^a 
Eastern  Bailroad,  Is  pleasantly  sitoated 
near  the  Atlantic  coast.  From  eleya- 
tlons  in  the  vicinity  there  are  &M  ^ws 
of  the  ocean,  the  Isle  of  Shoals,  aA  of 
the  seaKsoast  ftt>m  Cape  Ann  to  Forts- 
mouth.  Hampton  Beach  has  become  a 
fitrorite  [dace  of  resort  for  parties  of 
pleasure,  invalids,  and  those  seeking  an 
UTigoratingair.   Great  Boar's  Head,  In 


this  town,  Is  an  abrapt'  ODrinenee  ei^ 
^ndlftg  Into  the  ssa,  and  ttvidfaig  tht 
bsadiss on  either  side.  TherewMre 
an  hotel  fbr  the  aoeomiiodatlon  <# 
tisitora.  Ite  ishlng  a  short  dtotaaato 
from  the  shoio  is  Tonr  good. 

VmSflln^OK  Mmui  M  distant  aboot 
nbie  mOea  from  Hampton  and  from 
Portsmouth.  These  shoals  are  serea  la 
number.  Hog  Uand.  the  hurgeet.  eon- 
tabis  860  aersa,  mostqr  rooky  aaa  bar> 
ren.^  Its  grealeat  eloTatlon  Is  6?  feet 
above  hli^'Wator  merit.  Upon  this  M* 
and  is  a  hotel,  reoentlT  erected. 
TlMse  rooky  Ues  are  a  pleasant  re- 
sort ibr  water  parties,  and  the  bracing 
afar,  while  refrMhIng  to  the  sedentary, 
eannot  be  otherwise  than  salutary  to  ln< 
Tslids. — Bm  Btaeh  Is  another  noted 
watering-place  on  this  coast,  much  fre- 
quented by  penMws  fitMB  the  neighbor* 
Ingtowns. 

Foirtaaioalh,  H .  BL,  66  miles  from 
Boston,  and  61  frdin  Torthtnd,  Maine, 
by  the  Bas«i»m  Battroad,  the  prinolpel 
town  of  the  Stoto,  and  the  tmlir  sesnort, 
Is  built  on  the  south  side  of  tiie  Iisca- 
taqua  Biver.  Its  situation  is  a  fine  one, 
befaig  on  a  peninsula  near  the  mouth  of 
the  river.  It  Is  connected  by  bridges 
with  Kitterv  in  Mafaie,  and  Newcastle 
on  Qrand  Island,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river.  The  harbor  is  safe  and  deep, 
and  is  never  frozen,  its  strong  tides  pre- 
venting tiie  formation  of  Ice.  There  Is 
here  a  United  States  Navy  Tard,  one 
of  the  safest  and  most  convenient  on 
the  coast.  The  North  America,  the 
first  line-of4>attlewdiip  launched  In  thta 
hemisphere,  was  built  here  during  the 
BevolnUon. 

Andowwr.  the  seat  of  PhQllps*  Acad- 
emy.  and  ox  the  Andover  Thedogical 
Seminary,  Is  28  mUes  firom  Boston,  on 
the  Boston  and  Maine  Bailway. 

Ziow^  This  fiimoos  manuftetuTi 
^S  c^^Ji  ^  fii**  ^^  the  Union,  Is  upon 
the  Merrimack,  26  miles  firom  Bostmi, 
by  the  Boston  and  Lowell  BaOroad. 
Lowell  was  incorporated  as  a  town  faa 
1826,  and  In  1864  Its  population  was 
about  87,000.  Theire^  are  over  60  miUs 
in  operation  In  Lowell,  emjdoylng  a 
capital   of  $18,900,000^  and  neariy 


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MASAAOBUSSm. 


TowM  ud  yiUag«»-0«|»«  Ood. 


18,000  handa,  of  whom  about  9,000  are 
female*. 

Cknooid  ia  attuated  on  the  rirer  of  the 
aame  name,  20  milea  from  Boaton,  by 
the  Fltehburg  Railroad.  It  la  celebrated 
aa  the  place  where  the  flnt  effectual 
reaiatance  waa  made,  aad  the  flrat  Britiah 
blood  ahed.  in  the  Revolutionarj  war. 
On  the  19th  of  April,  1770,  a  partj  of 
Britiah  troopa  waa  ordered  hj  General 
Gage  to  proceed  to  thia  place  to  deatroy 
Bome  military  atores,  which  had  been 
depoaited  here  by  the  province.  The 
troopa  were  met  at  the  north  bridge  by 
the  people  of  Concord  and  the  neigh- 
boring towna,  and  foroiby  repulaed.  A 
handaome  granite  monument,  erected 
in  1886,  commemoratea  the  heroic  and 
patriotic  achievement. 

Lwringtoa,  the  acene  of  the  mem- 
orable battle  of  Lexington,  at  the 
commencement  of  the  Revolution, 
April  1 9, 1776.  From  Boaton  by  Fitch- 
burg  Railroad,  five'  milda;  to  West 
Cambridge  and  thence,  11  milea  by 
branch  road. 

Brighton  ia  five  milea  from  Boston, 
on  the  Boston  and  Worcester  Railroad. 
Thia  ia  a  beautiful  suburban  town,  on 
the  aouth  side  of  Charles  River.  It  is 
also  a  noted  cattle  market. 

Qninov  is  eight  miles  from  Boston, 
by  the  Old  Colony  and  Fall  River  Road, 
liunous  for  its  gnmite  quarriea ;  and  as 
the  birth-place  of  John  Hancock, 
Josiah  Quincy,  Jr.;  Preddenta  John 
and  John  QuUicv  Adams,  and  other 
eminent  men.  The  fine  estate  of  the 
Quincy  fkmily  is  here. 

Fljrmonth  is  87  mUes  from  Boston, 
by  the  Old  Colony  and  Fall  lUver  and 
branch  roads.  It  is  a  spot  of  especial 
interest,  as  the  landing-place  of  the 
Pilgrim  Fathers,  and  as  the  oldest  town 
in  New  England.  The  immortal  Ply- 
mouth Rock  lies  at  the  head  of  Hedge's 
Wharf.  It  is  now  much  reduced  from 
its  ancient  proportions,  being  only  6i 
feet  across  its  greatest  breadth,  and 
but  4  feet  thick.  The  surface  only  is 
visible  above  the  ground.  The  landing 
of  the  Pilgrims  from  the  May  Flower, 
occurred  on  the  22d  December,  1620. 

M>Tiihfi«M|  interesting  as  Uxe  home 


of  Webster,  is  28  miles  south-east  of 
Boston,  by  the  Old  Colony  and  the 
South  Shore  Railwaya. 

Mnghapi  ia  17  milea  from  Boaton, 
by  the  Old  Colony  and  the  South  Shore 
Railwava ;  or  may  be  reached  by  a  pleiH 
ant  Bail  down  the  bay.  ^ 

OohuMtt.  three  miles  from  Bing- 
ham (South  Shore  Road),  ia  a  popular 
sea-side  resort. 

Taonton,  Mum^  ia  a  beautlAil  town 
of  some  12.000  inhabitants,  situated  at 
the  head  of  navigation,  on  the  Taunton 
JUver.  It  may  be  reached  teom  Boston, 
86  miles;  and  from  Providence,  80 
milea,  by  the  Boaton  and  Providence 
Railroad,  taking  the  New  Bedford  and 
Taunton  Road  at  Mansfield,  about  mid- 
way between  Boston  and  Providence. 

New  Bodlbrd  is  a  charming  rnari* 
time  city,  of  some  18,000  people ;  situ- 
ated on  an  eatuary  of  Buazard'a  Bav. 
It  is  famous  for  its  whale  fisheries,  in 
which  enterprise  it  employs  between 
800  and  400  ships.  New  Bedford  ia 
the  termhius  of  the  New  Bedford  and 
Taunton  Railway^  by  which  route,  via 
Mansfield,  on  the  Boston  and  Providence 
Road,  it  may  be  reached  from  those 
two  cities.  It  is  accessible  also  from 
New  York  and  Boston,  by  the  Fall 
River  route.  Distance  from  Boston, 
66  miles. 

Martha's  Tinayard,  and  Nan- 
tnokat  These  famous  sea- islands  lie 
off  New  Bedford,  with  which  port  they 
are  in  daily  steamboat  communication. 
They  are  now  united  to  the  main  idsd 
by  submarine  telegraph. 

WMlmhoxtnffk.  is  a  prosperous  town 
on  the  Fall  River  route,  between  New 
York  and  Boston,  at  its  point  of  junc- 
tion with  the  Cape  Cod  Railroad.  It  is* 
pleasantly  situated  upon  the  Taunton 
River,  40  miles  from  Boston.  It  is  the 
seat  of  a  very  popular  Scholastic  In- 
stitution, under  the  direction  of  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Jenks. 

Ol|)e  Ood,  and  the  Sea  Tilanda. 
Those  who  delight  in  the  sea  breezes, 
in  salt  water  bathing,  and  fishing,  and 
in  the  physical  beauties  and  wonders  of 
the  ocean  changes,  will  find  ample  grat- 
ification everywhere  upon  the  Atlantia 


MAStAO^urrns. 

Valley  of  the  ConBMtlent— Northampton. 


19 


ith-«ut  of 
f  and  the 

m  Botton, 
inth  Shore 
byapleib- 

rom  Hing- 
a  popular 

utifbl  town 
rituated  at 
lie  Taunton 
om  BoBton, 
idenoe,  80 
Providence 
ledford  and 
about  mid* 
evidence, 
rming  marl* 
eople ;  situ- 
izard'a  Bay. 
fisheries,  in 
ys  between 
Bedford  if 
Bedford  and 
h  route,  via 
fProvidence 
[from  those 
e  also  from 
>y  the  Fall 
om  Boston, 

and    Nan- 

i- islands  lie 
3h  port  they 
imunication. 
le  munalso 

iperouBtown 
stween  New 
int  of  junc- 
Iroad.  It  ia- 
,he  Taunton 
D.  It  is  the 
sholastic  In* 
stion  of  the 

bland!. 

sea  breezes, 
fishing,  and 

1  wonders  of 
ample  grat- 
the  Atlantia 


borders,  and  especially  upon  the  bold 
klanded  coast  of  New  England. 

Besides  the  welMuiown  hannta  of 
the  Lons  Island  and  the  Jersey 
shores,  of  Newport,  and  of  the  numer> 
ous  suburban  resorts  of  Boston,  to 
which  we  have  elsewhere  alluded,  the 
Isle  of  Shoals,  off  Portsmouth,  Martha's 
Vineyard,  and  Nantucket,  off  New  Bed- 
ford, ko.,  we  commend  thb  summer 
wanderer  to  a  tour  through  the  towns 
and  villages,  and  along  the  ooasts  of 
that  wondorAil  promontory  of  Massa- 
chusetts—Gape  God.  Let  him  journey 
from  "Plymouth  Rook,"  the  inner 
point,  to  Province  Town,  the  outer 
verge,  and  he  will  find  novelties  in  both 
physical  nature  and  social  life,  which 
wiU  be  most  agreeable.  The  Gape  God 
Railway  fW>m  Boston  will  take  him  far 
along  upon  the  Gape,  14  miles  to  Barn- 
stable; 76  to  Yarmouth;  and  80  to 
Hyannis;  or  he  may  go  thence  by 
steamboat,  and  afterwards  continue 
from  point  to  point  by  stage. 

THE  OONNECTIOnr  YALLBT,  BIVBB, 
AND  BAILWAT8. 

The  beautifhl  valleys  watered  by  the 
Gonneoticut,  are  among  the  most  in- 
viting portions  of  the  New  England 
landscapes;  whether  for  rapid  transit, 
or  for  protracted  stay.  The  whole  re- 
gion is  speedily  and  pleasantly  accessible 
from  every  point,  and  may  be  traversed 
en  route,  to  most  of  the  principal  sum- 
mer resorts  of  New  England,  since 
many  important  and  very  attractive 
towns  and  villages  lie  within  its  area, 
and  rince  it  is  crossed,  and  recrossed, 
every  where,  by  the  intricate  nulway 
system,  which  imites  Boston  so  in- 
timately, not  only  with  all  the  Eastern 
States,  but  by  connection  infinite,  with 
the  whole  country. 

The  Ctonneotioat,  the  Queen  of  New 
England  rivers — ^the  chiefest  and  most 
beautiful^-rises  in  the  hills  of  New 
Hampshire  and  Vermont,  near  the  Gan- 
ada  borders ;  and  flowing  nearly  south- 
ward, for  400  miles,  separates  the  two 
States  of  its  mountain  birth ;  traverses 
the  entire  breadth  of  Massachusetts  and 
Gonneoticut,  to  the  Long  Island  Sound. 
3 


Its  waters  are  swelled  br  the  tribute  of 
the  Passunmsic,  the  White,  the  Deer* 
field,  the  Westfiold,  the  Ammanoosuo, 
and  other  riven.  .  It  is  navigabfe  for 
sloops  60  miles  up  to  Hartford,  and  with 
the  help  of  numerous  canals,  very  much 
fkrther.  The  Connecticut  Valley  is,  per* 
haps,  800  miles  long  in  a  straight  line, 
with  a  mean  width  of  40  miles.  The  soil 
is  as  fertile  as  the  landscape  is  beautiful. 

Railroads  from  New  York,  Boston, 
Albanv,and  other  places,  meet  at  Spring- 
field, tte  southern  threshold  of  the  most 
picturesque  part  of  the  Gonneoticut ;  so 
we  iHU  commence  our  tour  here — refer- 
ring the  traveller  to  the  route  from  New 
York  to  Boston,  for  mention  of  Spring- 
field itself. 

Northampton,  Mass.,  is  It  milea 
above  Springfield,  on  the  line  of  rail- 
way which  follows  the  Gonneoticut,  up 
to  the  diveri^ng  lines  for  the  White 
Hills  of  New  Hampshire,  and  for  Ver- 
mont and  Ganada.  It  is  in  every  way 
one  of  the  most  charming  villages  in 
New  England,  and  none  other  is  more 
sought  for  summer  residences.  It  lies 
about  a  mile  west  of  the  Gonnecticut, 
surrounded  by  rich  alluvial  meadows, 
sweeping  out  in  broad  expanse,  from 
the  base  of  grand  mountain  ridges. 
The  village  is  not  too  largo  for  country 
pleasures,  the  population  of  the  town- 
ship falling  withm  6,000 ;  yet,  its  na- 
tural advantages  are  so  great,  and  so 
many  pleasant  people  have  established 
themselves  here  in  such  pleasant  and 
beautiftil  places,  and  the  hotels  are  so  ad- 
mirable, that  the  tourist,  the  most  dif- 
Jieile,  will  not  miss  either  the  social 
or  the  physical  ei^oyments  of  his  city 
home.  Even  the  little  business  part  of 
Northampton  has  a  cosy,  rural  air,  and 
all  around  are  charming  villas,  nestled 
on  green  lawns,  and  among  fragrant 
flowers.  Among  the  specialities  of 
Northampton,  are  several  distinguished 
water-cure  establishments,  the  chief  of 
which  is  that  known  as  Round  Hill,  a 
lar^  and  beautiful  place,  upon  the  fine 
emmence  after  which  it  is  named,  just 
west  of  the  village.  The  schools  here 
have  alway  been  in  very  high  repute. 
Its  chief  academy  is  the  Go&^ate  In- 


74 


MAflSACBUSBFIS. 


MooBt  Bolyok*  ud  ihft  OomiMtloat  Bint. 


i.    '. 


: 


•titute.  The  vioinage  of  Northampton 
Is.  perhaps,  ibei  most  beautiful  portion 
of  the  Conneotiout  Valley,  the  most 
fertile  4n  its  interval  lands,  and  the  most 
■trildng  in  its  mountain  scenes ;  for  it 
looks  out,  directly,  upon  the  enm  and 
crests  of  those  umous  hil]8--lfottnt 
Holjroke  and  Mount  Tom. 

Ihe  hotels  are,  first,  the  .Mansion 
House,  an  elegant  establishment,  upon 
the  upper  edge  of  the  village;  then 
Warners  Hotel,  in  the  business  street ; 
and.  the  Nonotuolc  House  at  the  railway 
■(ation.  Northampton  is  united  to  New 
Haven,'  by  the  New  Haven  and  North- 
ampton Railroad,  *I6  miles  long,  as  well 
as  via  Sprim|ileld. 

Bloimt  Bolyolu  is  directly  across 
the  river  from  Nortluuiipton ;  a  good 
carriage  road  winds  to  the  summit, 
1,120  feet  above  Uie  sea,  where  there  is 
&  little  inn  and  an  observatory.  There 
are  not  of  its  kind  many  scenes  in  the 
world  more  beautiful  than^  that  which 
the  visitor  to  Mount  Holyoke  looks  down 
upon;  the  varied  features  of  the  lec- 
ture— fruitful  valleys,  smiling  vill^j^ 
and  iarms,  winding  waters ;  and,  afar 
off,  on  every  side,  blue  mounUJn  peaks, 
innumerable,  will  hold  him  long  in  hap- 
py contemplation. 

*«  Mount  Holyoke,"  says  Mr.  Eden's 
Handbook  to  the  region,  "is  a  part  of 
a  ridge  of  greenstone,  commendng  with 
West  Book  near  New  Haven,  and  pro- 
ceeding northerly  across  the  whole  of 
donneoticut ;  but  its  elevation  is  small  un- 
tilit  reaches  Easthampton,  when  it  sud- 
denly mounts  up  to  the  height  of  nearly 
1,000  feet,  and  forms  Mount  Tom.  The 
ridge  grosses  the  Connecticut,  in  a  north- 
east direction,  and  curving  still  more  to 
tiie  east,  terminates  10  miles  from  the 
river,  in  the  north-west  part  of  Bel- 
ohertown.  All  that  part  of  the  ridge 
east  of  the  river  is  called  Holyoke, 
thoueh  the  Prospect  House  is  erected 
near  its  south-western  extremity,  oppo- 
site Northampton,  and  near  the  Con- 
necticut. This  is  by  far  the  most  com- 
manding spot  on  the  mountain,  tiiough 
several  disitnct  'summits,  that  have  as 
yet  received  no  uniform  name,  afford 
delightful  prospects. 


*'Nothfaig  can  be  seen,  except  an  oe- 
eadonal  glunpse  through  the  trees,  hi 
the  ascent,  until  the  vuitor  arrives  at 
the  Mountain  House,  and  here  the  snd» 
den  burst  of  such  a  magnificent  profr- 
pect  is  as  startling  as  it  is  delightftilV 
The  viritor  finds  hunself  lifted  up  near> 
ly  1,000  feet  firom  the  midst  of  a  plain, 
which,  northerly  and  southerly,  is  of 
great  extent;  and  so  comparatively 
narrow  is  the  naked  rock  on  which  be 
stands,  that  he  wonders  it  has  withstood 
the  if^dM  and  storms  of  so  many  cen- 
turies. 

''  Of  all  the  charming  objects,  how- 
ever, with  which  the  landscape  abounds, 
the  most  enchanting  is  the  Ckmnecticut 
itsel£  This  stream  mi^,  perhaps,  with 
as  much  propriety  as  any  in  the  world, 
be  named  the  Beautiful  Biver.  Joel . 
Barlow,  in  his  poem  of  tiie  CMumbiad, 
speaking  of  the  Connecticut,  says  :— 

*  K o  watoiy  |^m  thro*  riehw  vaneyi  shine, 
Nor  drinks  tbo  aea  a  loveUer  wave  than 


"  Indeed,  during  its  whole  course,  it 
uniformly  sustidns  this  character.  The 
purity,  salubrity,  and  aweetness  of  its 
waters,  the  frequency  and  ehgance  of 
its  meanders,  its  absolute  freedom  fh>m 
all  aquatic  vegetables;  the  uncommon 
and  universal  beauty  of  its  banks,^here, 
a  smooth  and  winding  beaoh;  now 
fringed  with  bushes ;  now.CTOwned  with 
lofty  trees,  and  now  formed  by  the  in^ 
truding  hill,  the  rude  bluff,  and  the 
shaggy  mountain;  are  objects  which, 
cannot  be  thoroughly  described  or  ade- 
quately imaged.  The  river  turns  four 
times  to  the  east,  and  three  times  to 
the  west,  within  12  miles,  and  within 
that  distance,  makes  a  progress  of  24. 
It  winds  its  way  mi^estieally,  yet  most 
beautifully^  through  the  meadows  of 
Hfttfield,  Hadley,  and  Northampton,  and 
directiy  in  front  of  Holyoke,  it  formeriy 
swept  around  in  a  graceful  curve  of  three 
miles,  without  advancing  in  its  ocean- 
ward  course  100  rods ;  but  in  the  sprine 
of  1840  (as  if  impelled  by  the  go^ead 
character  of  the  ageX  it  out  across  the 
neck  of  this  peninsula,  though  as  it  still 
continues  to  pass  around  tM  curve,  as 


UAaBAGBuaanB. 


3 


Tk*  T1*w  from  MooBt  Ha)]rok«— Monat  ^Dnn. 


wd!  ai  through  the  new  ohanneL  the 
baeaty  of  the  root  it  unimpaired.  After 
thia,  itjMMea  dueoti^  through  the  deep^ 
opening  between  Holyolce  and  Tom, 
wUeh  ita  own  waters  or  aome  other 
agencies  liave  excarated  in  eariy  timee. 
mIow  this  point,  the  Oonneetiont  is  in 
fidl  Tiew,  like  a  aeiqientine  mirror,  for 
nearly  20  miles. 

*'  'nie  intenrals  whioh  in  thia  Tiew  bor- 
der it  in  continual  suoeeasion,  are  fields 
containing  firom  600  to  6,000  acres, 
formed  l&e  terraced  gardens,  lowest 
near  the  river,  and  rising  as  they  re> 
cede  from  it  by  regidar  gradations. 
These  fields  are  distributed  mto  an  im-- 
mense  multitude  of  lots,  geometrically 
diversified  &  the  summer  with  grass, 
corn,  grain,  and  other  products  of  la^ 
borious  industry.    On  the  west,  and  a 
little  elevated  above  the  general  level, 
the  eye  turns  with  delight  to  the  popu- 
lous village  of  Northsmptonj  euibit- 
ing  in  its  public  edifices  and  private 
dwelUngs,  an  unusual  degree  of  neatness 
and  elegance.     A  littie  more  to  the 
right,  the  quiet  and  substantial  villages 
of  Hadley  and  Hatfield,  and  still  farther 
east  and  more  distant,  Amherst,  with 
its  College,  Observatory,  Cabinet,  and 
Academy,  on  a  commanding  eminence, 
form  pleasant  resting  places  for  the 
eve.    The  valley  on  the  south  of  Holy- 
oke  is  not  as  interesting  as  that  on  the 
west  and  north,  chiefly  because  the  land 
is  less  fertUe.  The  vilkge  of  South  Had- 
ley with  Mount  Holyoke  Female  Semi- 
nary, is  indeed  a  pleasing  object,  but 
Springfield,  though  finely  situated,  is  too 
fitr  removed  for  an  exhibition  of  its  par- 
ticular features.    Other  places. south  of 
Springfield  are  indistinctly  virible  along 
the  banks  of  the  Connecticut :  and  even 
the  spires  of  some  of  the  churches  in 
Hartford  may  be  seen  in  good  weather, 
just  rising  above  the  trees.    Still  far- 
ther south  may  be  seen  the  abrupt 
greenstone  bluflb  midway  between  Hart- 
ford and  New  Haven ;  and  looking  with 
a  telescope  between  these,  other  low 
hills  may  be  indistinctly  seen,  which 
may  be  the  trap  ridge  ehcircling  New 
Haven. 

**  Facing  the  soutii-west,  the  observer 


has  b^re  him  on  the  opposite  aid*  of 
the  river,  the  ridge  oaUeid  Mount  Tom, 
rising  100  or  SOOfeet  higherthan  Bolf* 
oke,  and  dividing  the  Ya[U)yOf  the  Cuk' 
nectiout  lon^tu^naOy.  The  western 
branch  of  tUa  valley  u  bounded  on  the 
west  by  Ihe  Hoosac  range  of  moon- 
tahis;  which,  as  teen  firom  Holyoke, 
rises  ridge  above  ridge  fat  more  than 
twenty  miles,  ohekered  with  eidtivated 
fields  and  forests,  and  not  unfre<|uently 
enlivened  by  viDagea  and  church  Sfdres. 
In  the  north-west,  Oraylock  may  M 
seen  peering  above  the  Hoosac :  and 
still  farther  north,  several  of  the  Green 
Mountains  hi  Yermtmt,  shoot  up  be* 
yond  the  rej^on  of  the  clouds  in  im<> 
poring  grandeur.  A  little  to  the  SQiqth 
of  west,  the  beautiM  outline  of  Mount 
Everett  is  often  visible.  Nearer  at 
hand,  and  in  the  valley  of  the  Conneoti- , 
cut,  tiie  insulated  Sugar  Loaf  and  Mount 
Toby  present  thehr  fantastic  outlines ; 
while,  fhr  in  the  north-east,  ascends  In 
Am  and  misty  grandeur  the  doud-capt 
Monadnoc. 

"  Probably,  under  fitvorable  circum- 
stances, not  less  than  thirty  churchea, 
in  as  many  towns,  are  virible  from 
Holyoke.  The  north  and  south  ^meter 
of  the  field  of  vision  there  cannot  be 
less  than  160  miles. 

*' Mount  Holyoke  commands  also  a 
view  of  the  Connecticut  River  Rdhroad 
for  many  miles ;  and  it  is  a  novel  ahd 
interesting  sight  to  witness  the  Iron 
Horse  suddenly  emer^^ng  firom  the 
Willimantic  Bridge,  and  pursuing  ita 
impetuous  and  resistless  course  uong 
the  picturesque  bank  of  tiie  stream,  and 
through  the  beautifol  meadows  below 
us." 

Blmmt  Tom,  upon  the  opposite  ride 
of  the  river,  is  not  yet  so  much  visited 
as  are  its  neighboring  oliffls  of  Holyoke, 
though  it  is  considerably  higher,  and 
the  panorama  from  its  crest  is  no  less 
broad  and  beautiful. 

The  village  of  Easthampton  (again 
quoting  Mr.  Eden's  Gulde}^  is  situated 
on  the  west  side  of  Mount  Tom,  four 
miles  from  Northampton.  It  containa 
a  very  extensive  button  manufactory, 
well  deserring  of  a  virit  from  those  who 


/■   a 


\ 


i6 


lfArtlA(MU8lgMH« 


>  ■■  k- 


r. 


Bonih  Hadlef— BJtdley. 


MonntTooi, 


can  api^eciate  mechanioal  ingenuity. 
The  principal  feature  of  tike  place,  liow- 
ever,  is  its  noble  seminary  for  the  youth 
of  both  sexes,  which  was  founded  and 
liberally  endowed  by  the  Hon.  Samuel 
Williston,  at  an  expense  of  $56,000, 
and  has  been  in  successful  operation  16 
years,  having  now  an  average  attend- 
ance of  about  200  pupils. 

On  the  east  dde  of  Mount  Tom  and 
of  the  river  is  the  village  of  South  Had- 
ley,  &mous  as  the  seat  of  the  Mount 
Holyoke  Female  Seminary,  founded  and 
for  many  years  conducted  by  Miss  Mary 
Lyon.  This  institution  has  sent  out 
hundreds  of  graduates,  as  teachers, 
into  all  parts  of  the  land.  South  Had- 
ley  has  many  spots  which  afford  most 
agreeable  prospects.  Standing  on  the 
elevated  bank  of  the  river  and  facing 
the  north-west,  you  look  directly  up 
the  Gonncctici^  where  it  passes  be- 
,  tween  Holyoke  and  Tom ;  those  moun- 
'  trains  rising  with  precipitous  bold- 
.  hcss,  on  either  side  of  the  valley  through 
the  opening,  the  river  is  seen  for  two 
or  three  mues,  enlivened  by  one  or  two 


lovely  ishmds,  while  over  the  rich 
meadows  that  constitute  the  banks,  are 
scattered  trees,  through  which,  half 
hidden,  appears  in  the  distance  the  vil- 
lage of  Northampton,  its  more  conspicu- 
ous edifices  being  only  visible. 

The  village  of  Hadley  is  connected 
with  Northampton  by  a  bridge  over 
the  Connecticut.  The  river  immediately 
above  the  town,  leaving  its  general 
course,  turns  north-west:  then,  after 
winding  to  the  south  again,  turns  di- 
rectly east ;  and  thus,  having  wandered 
five  miles,  encloses,  except  on  the  east, 
a  beautiftd  interval,  containing  between 
two  and  three  thousand  acres.  On  the 
isthmus  of  this  peninsula  lies  the  princi- 
pal street — the  handsomest,  by  nature, 
In  New  Eneland.  It  is  a  mile  m  length, 
running  directly  north  and  south;  is 
sixteen  rods  in  breadth;  is  nearly  a 
perfect  level ;  is  covered  during  the 
fine  season  with  a  rich  verdure ;  abuts 
at  both  ends  on  the  river,  and  yields 
every  where  a  delightful  prospect.' 

There  is  a  Grammar  School  here, 
that  owes  its  foundation  to  fhnda  left 


XAflSAdHiraXnB. 


M 


"W 


Amhent— SngH  Loaf  and  DMifleld  Moomtalm  'Monnt  Tob^. 


by  the  Hon.  Edward  Aopkins,  «  former 
Ctovemor  of  Oonnecticut. 

In  thifl  town  rerided  for  fifteen  or 
dxteen  yean  WheUey  and  Ooif;  two  of 
those  who  composed  the  ooart  for  the 
trial  of  Kfaw  Charles  the  First,  and 
who  signed  the  warrant  for  his  exeeu- 
tion.  They  came  to  Hadley  in  1964. 
When  the  house  which  they  occupied 
was  pulled  down,  the  bones  of  Whuley 
were  found  buried  just  without  the  cel- 
lar wall,  in  a  kind  of  tomb  formed  of 
mason  woric,  and  coTered  with  flaas  of 
hewn  stone.  After  Whalley'a  death, 
Goff  left  Hadley  and  went,  it  was 
thought,  to  New  Tork,  and  finally  to 
Rhode  Island,  where  he  spent  the  rest  of 
his  life  with  a  son  ofhis  deceased  wnfrire. 

AnlMrati  the  «eai  of  the  famous 
College,  is  buil^  upon  an  eminmce,  four 
miles  east  of  Hadley.  The.  College 
ObserratotT  an^MqpeeiaUy  itfl  rich  earn* 
net,  should  reoeifre  due  oonsideration 
from  the  visitor  here. 
,  Tbe  Sngar-tioaf  MooBtabi  comes 
now  into  view,  as  we  journey  on  up  the 
valley.  This  coidcal  peidc  of  red  sand- 
9tone  rises  ahnost  perpendicularly  five 
hundred  feet  above  the  phdn,  on  the 
bank  of  the  Connecticut,  in  the  south 
part  of  Deerfield.  As  ihe  traveller  ap- 
proaches this  hill  from  the  south,  it 
seems  as  if  its  summit  were  inaccessible. 
But  it  can  be  attidned  without  difficulty 
on  foot,  and  affords  a  delightful  view 
on  almost  every  dde.  The  Connecticut 
and  the  peaceful  village  of.  Sunderland 
on  its  bank,  appears  so  near,  tbat  one 
imagines  he  might  almost  reach  them 
by  a  single  leap.  This  mountain  over- 
looks a  spot  which  was  the  scene  of  the 
most  sanguinary  conflicts  that  occurred 
during  the  early  settlement  of  this  re- 
gion. A  little  south  of  the  mountain 
the  Indians  were  defeated  in  IB'ZS  by 
Captains  Lathrop  and  Beers ;  and  one 
mile  north-west,  where  the  village  of 
Bloody  Brook  now  stands  (which  de- 
rived its  name  from  the  circumstance), 
in  the  same  year,  Captain  Lathrop  was 
drawn  into  an  ambuscade,  with  a  com- 
pany of  '*  eighty  young  men,  the  very 
flower  of  Ensex  County,"  who  were 
nearly  all  destroyed. 


The  spot  where  Captidn  Lathrop  and 
about  tUrty  of  his  men  were  interred, 
is  marked  by  a  stone  slab ;  and  a  mar* 
ble  monument,  about  twenty  feet  high 
and  siz  fbet  square,  ii  erected  near 
by. 

DewlliM  Monntofti  lisea  some  700 
feet  above  the  jAain  on  which  the  vil- 
lage Bt«ndt.  From  the  weetem  verge 
of  41ds  summit  the  view  is  exceedini^y 
intereeting.  i 

The  alluvial  pbdja  on  whieh  Deerfl^d 
stands  is  sank  nearly  100  feet  below 
the  general  level  of  the  Connecticiit 
vaDey ;  and  at  the  south-west  part  of 
this  basin,  Deerfield  river  tt  seen 
emerging  fr<»n  the  mountafau,  and 
winding  in  the  meet  gracefid  eqrvet 
along,  its  whole  western  border.  SdU 
more  beneath  the  eye  is  the  viJQage,  re- 
markable for  regmarity,  and  for  the 
number  and  site  w  the  trees  along  the 
piindpal  street,  Tli#  meadows,  a  Uttle 
beyond,  are  one  of  tl^e  most  verdant 
and  feitUe  spots  in  Kew.  England. 
Upon  the  whme,  this  view  is  one  of  the 
most  perfect  rural  peace  and  hapi^ess 
that  can  be  imagined. 

A  few  mOes  north  of  Deerfield,  and 
in  the  same  valley,  but  on  higher 
ground,  can  be  seen  the  lovely  viUagto 
of  Greenfield.  As  we  approach  tluB 
pbce  from  the  south,  the  view  is  one  oi 
great  beauty. 

"How  gay  the  habitations  that  b«deek 
This  fertile  valley  1    Not  a  hoow  bat  seems 
To  slve  asBorance  ct  content  within ; 
Embosomed  happiness  and  plsisiti  love ; 
As  if  the  sanshine  of  the  day  were  met 
By  answering  brightness  in  the  hearts  of  all 
Who  walk  tus  Ihvored  ground." 

• 

Moimt  Toby  lies  in  the  north  part 
of  Sunderland,  and  west  part  of  Lever- 
ett,  and  is  separated  from  Sugar-Loaf 
and  Deerfield  Mountains  by  tiie  Con- 
necticut river.  On  various  parts  of  the 
mountain,  interesting  views  may  be  ob- 
tained, but  at  the  southern  extremity 
of  the  highest  ridge,  there  is  a  finer 
view  of  l£e  valley  of  the  Connecticut 
than  from  any  other  eminence.  Ele- 
vated above  the  river  nearly  1,000  feet, 
and  but  a  little  cUstance  from  it,  its 
windings  lie  directly  before  you;  and 


\ 


78 


ICAflSAOBUSKm. 
Onenfleld^Yenioa— BntQeborangL 


Ihe  yfOaMB  that  line  its  banJu—Siuider* 
iMd,  fuldlej,  Hatfield,  Northampton, 
ftnd  ijnhent,  lippear  like  «o  many 
qiarkUnk  gema  in  its  crown. 

Mottt  WanMT  is  a  hiU  of  lets  alti- 
tade  than  any  before  named,  being  onhr 
900  or  800  feet  in  height,  bat  a  rich 
view  can  be  had  from  its  top  of  that 
portion  of  the  Talley  of  the  Oonneoticut 
just  described.  It  lies  in  the  north  part 
Of  Hadley,  not  moro  than  half  a  mile 
from  the  liver,  /tnd  it  can  be  eadly 
reached  by  a  carriage.  A  visit  to  it 
can,  therefore,  be  performed  by  the  in- 
vaUd,  and  will  form  no  mean  substitute 
for  an  excursion  to  Holyoke  or  Toby. 

Oreanfield,  in  its  business  quarter,  is 
a  lively  little  place.  The  wonted  New 
England.quiet,  however,  is  all  around 
it,  in  ehn-ehaded  streets  and  garden- 
surrounded  villas.  The  high  hills  in 
the  neighborhood  open  fine  pictures  of 
the  vs&ys  and  whidinga  of  the  great 
river.  ,  > 

Oreenfiejd  is  the  terminus  of  a  ndl- 
way  from  Boston,  via  Fitchburg,  100 
miles  from  the  former,  and  66  miles 
^om  the  latter  place.    Another  route 


will  unite  it  with  the  railway  systems  of 
the  West  at  Albany  and  Troy.  The 
Oreen  river,  which  flows  near  the  vil- 
Isge,  is  a  pretty  stream,  and  near  by 
aro  the  Deerfield  and  Greenfield  rivers. 
Among  the  manufactures  of  Greenfield^ 
there  is  a  tool  shop,  in  which  are  made 
882   different   shapes   of    earpentei^s 

E lanes.    In  an  extensive  cutlery  estab- 
shment  upon  Green  Kver,  800  opera- 
tives  are  employed. 

Vccnonr— At  Middle  Vernon  there  is 
a  charming  view  up  the  river,  as  seen 
from  the  laflway  track ;  Mount  Chester^ 
field,  in  New  Hampshire,  opposite 
BraUleborough,  rising  up  stoutly  in  the 
back-ground. 

Bnttlobonmgl^  brings  us  feirly  out 
of  the  rich  alluvial  lands  into  the  upper 
and  more  rugged  portions  of  the  Con- 
necticut. The  intervals  now  grow  nar- 
rower, and  the  hills' more  stem.  This 
beautifiil  village  is  in  a  very  picturesque 
district,  upon  the  west  side  of  the  river. 
It  is,  deservedly,  one  of  the  most  es- 
teemed of  the  summer  resorts  of  the 
Connecticut,  so  pure  and  heftlth-restor- 
ing  are  its  airs,  and  so  pleasant   all 


Mount  Ohwterfleld,  N.  H. 


YBBMOirr.t-^KEW  BAXPBHIBB. 


Bellows  Falls,  Tt— Kmii«— Ohtrieston— Moant  Asentnef. 


19 

44- 


its  belongiiigs,  within  and  witliout. 
There  are  nere  several  large  and  admi- 
rable water-cure  establishments,  and  a 
fine  fira^olaBs  hotel,  called  the  Revere 
House.  The  village  cemetery  on  a  lofty 
terrace  overloolung  the  river,  above 
and  below,  is  a  beantiful  roral  spot. 
West  River,  above  the  town,  is  an  ex- 
ceedingly- picturesque  stream.  The 
buil^Ui^  and  grounds,  in  this  vicinity, 
of  the  Asylum  for  the  Insane,  have  a 
fine  manorial  appearance. 

Our  next  stage  is  24  miles,  from 
Brattleborough  to  Bellows  Falls,  over 
the  Vermont  valley  road. 

BeUows'  Falls  is  a  fiunous  congre- 
gating and  stoppihg  place  of  railways. 
With  the  exception  of  some  bold  pas- 
sages of  natural  sceneir,  and  a  most 
sumptuous  summer  hotel,  called  the  Isl- 
and House,  there  is  not  much  here, 
comparatively,  to  allure  the  traveller. 
Railways  come  in  from  Boston  on  the 
east,  from  the  valley  of  the  Gonnecticut 
on  the  south,  from  Vermont  and  Canada 
on  the  north,  and  from  Albany  and 
Troy,  via  Rutland,  on  the  west. 

The  Falls  are  a  series  of  rapids  in  the 
Connecticut,  extending  about  a  mile 
along  the  base  of  a  high  and  precipitous 
hill,  known  as  "Fall  MountiOn,''  which 
skirts  the 'river  on  the  New  Hampshire 
side.  At  the  bridge  which  crosses  the 
river  at  this  place,  the  visitor  can  stand 
directly  over  the  boOing  flood;  viewed 
from  whence,  the  whde  scene  is  effec- 
tive in  the  extreme.  The  Connecticut 
is  here  compressed  into  so  narrow  a 
compass  that  it  seems  as  if  one  could 
almost  leap  across  it.  The  water, 
which  is  one  dense  mass  of  foam,  rushes 
through  the  chasm  with  such  velocity, 
that  in  striking  on  the  rocks  below,  it  is 
forced  back  upon  itself'  for  a  conddera- 
ble  distance.  In  no  place  is  the  fall 
perpendicular  to  any  considerable  ex- 
tent, but  in  the  distance  of  half  a  mile 
the  waters  descend  about  60  feet.  A 
canal  three-fonrths  of  a  mile  long,  with 
locks,  was  constructed  round  the  Falls, 
many  years  rince,  at  an  expense  of 
$60,000. 

Keene  is  one  of  the  prettiest  towns 
of  New  Hampshire  in  this  vicinity.    It 


is  situated  on  a  flat,  east  of  the  Ashue- 
lot  river,  and  is  upon  the  route  o^  the 
Cheshire  ndlway,  by  which  it  is  connect- 
ed with  Boston,  and  with  the  Connecti- 
cut river  roads.  It  is  partiojilariy  ^en- 
titled to  notice  for  the  extent,  width, 
and  uniform  level  of  its  streets.  The 
main  street,  exten^i^  one  mile  in  a 
straight  line,  is  almost  a  perfect  levd, 
and  u  well  ornamented  with  trees,  it 
is  a  place  of  considerable  business,  there 
beii^;  several  manufiMsturing  establish- 
ments here. 

From  Bellows*  Falls  we  pass  on  to 
Windsor,  2&  miles,  by  the  Sullivan  rail- 
way. 

Sooth  Cuaxsmhok  and  Chahubroii 
are  quiet  little  aside  viUages  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  Connecticut,  in.  SuIUvan 
County,  New  Hampdiire,  60  miles  west 
of  Concord.  A  bridge  crosses  the  river 
to  Sfffingfleld,  Vermont  Charleston 
was  the  extreme*  northern  outpost  in 
the  early  days  of  the  New  England  colo- 
nies. There  was  then  a  rude  military 
work  here  called  Fort  No.  4. 

Clamw OMT  is  also  on  the  east  bank  of 
the  Connecticut,  and  in  Sullivan  County, 
N.  H.  It  is  a  pleasant  littie  manufac- 
turing village.  The  scenei^  in  this 
neieh)^Thood  is  extremely  fine.  The 
banks  of  the  Svoak  Rt^k  are  very 
picturesque,  and  the  changing  aspects 
of  MoimT  AscunnET,  which  we  now 
approach,  are  of  the  highest  interest 
It  is  upon  this  side  tms  noble  hill, 
standing  solitary  and  alone,  a  brave 
outpost  of  the  coming  Green  Mountains . 
on  the  one  hand,  and  of  the  White- 
Mountains  on  the  other,  is  seen  in  its 
greatest  grandeur.  Its  rugged  precipi- 
tous sunmiits  and  its  dark  ravines  have 
here  a  very  vigorous  and  massive 
character.  Ascutney  is  sometimes  call- 
ed the  Three  Brothers,  from  its  trio  of 
lofty  peaks,  all  visible  firom  the  southern 
approach.  From  the  eastward  and 
northward,  at  Windsor  and  firom  the 
west,  its  appearance  is  totally  different, 
but  always  fine.  It  may  be  very  com- 
fortably ascended  from  Windsor,  in  a 
good. day's  tramp;  and  the  view  from 
the  summit  is  scarcely  inferior  in  extent, 
variety,  and  magnificence,  to  that  from 


\ 


80 


oomuKmoiTP. 


Tal]«)r  of  the  Hoontonto. 


any  other  peakiof  the  Yermont  ehain. 
Its  height  u  1,789  feet  shore  the  river. 

WiNOfBOH  ifl  one  of  tiie  pleiantest  rural 
retreats  of  all  this  eharniing  region, 
with  its  Ticinage  to  Mount  Xsoatney, 
and  other  attractive  seenet  of  land  and 
water.  It  is  the  centre  of  a  fliie  agri> 
eultural  and  wool-growing  neij^bor- 
hood.  There  is  an  exoeUent,  quiet, 
Rummer  hotel  here.  Windsor  is  the 
Heat  of  the  Vermont  State  Prison,  and 
the  terminus  of  the  Vermont  GcAtral 
Railway,  from  Burlington  through  -the 
▼alley  of  the  WinoosU  river. 

At  Windsor,  the  Sullivan  road-  ends, 
and  we  continue  our  joum^along  the 
Connecticut,  14  miles,  to  White  River 
Junction,  by  the  Verm<mt  central  route. 

White  Siver  JmeHoiu  From  this 
point  the  Vermbnt  central  road  con- 
tinues, via  Northfldd  and  Hontpelier, 
to  Burlington;  and  we  leave  it  for 
the  Connecticut  and  Passomp^  upon 
which  we  continue,  40  miles,  to  Wells 
River. 

Banovor,  l^ew  Hampshire,  is  in  this 
neighborhood,  half-a-mile  east  of  the 


Connecticut,  and  65  miles  northwest  of 
Concord.  It  occufrfes  a  broad  terrace, 
180  feet  above  the  water.  Here  is  the 
venerable  Dartmouth  College,  founded 
in  1769,  and  named  in  honor  of  William, 
Earl  of  Dartmouth.  Daniel  Webster 
was  one  of  the  alumni  of  this  esteemed 
institution.  ' 

The  College  bufl^gs  are  grouped 
around  a  square  of  12  acres,  in  the 
centre  of  the  piidn  upon  which  the 
village  stands. 

Wella  Biww.  At  this  pdnt,  the 
ndlway  to  Littleton,  20  miles,  and  thence 
by  stage  to  the  White  Mountains,  di- 
verges. Here,  too,  comes  in  the  Bos- 
ton, Concord,  and  Montreal  route, 
sending  its  passengers,  via  Littleton,  to 
the  Wmte  Hills  or  onward,  by  the  Con- 
necticut and  Passumpaio  road,  via  St. 
Johnsbury, to  Canada.  The  Connecti- 
cut now  assumes  the  appearance  of  a 
mountain  stream,  the  railways  fo^owits 
banks  no  farther,  and  we  leave  our 
traveller  to  proceed  on  either  hand,  as 
we  have  inmcated,  to  New  Hampehire, 
or  to  Canada. 


CONNECTICUT. 

Ths  scenery  of  Connecticut  Is  dellghtfiilly  varied  by  the  passage  of  the  Con- 
necticut, the  Housatonio,  and  other  incturesque  rivers ;  and  of  sevend  low  hill 
ranges.  Spurs  of  the  Oreen  Mountains  rise,  here  and  there,  in  isolated  groups 
or  points  through  the  western  portions  of  the  State.  The  Talcot,  or  Greenwood's 
Range,  extends  from  the  northern  boundary  almost  to  New  J^ven.  Between 
this  chain  and  that  hi  the  extreme  west,  lies  another  ridge,  with  yet  two  others 
on  the  eastward,  the  Middletown  Moimtains,  and  the  line  across  the  Connecticut, 
which  is  a  continuation,  most  probably,  of  the  White  Hills  of  New  Hampshire. 
Lying  between  -these  mountain  ranges,  are  valleys  of  great  luxuriance  and  beauty. 
The  Takes  among  the  mountuns  of  the  north-western  domer  of  the  State  are 
extremely  attractive. 

Excepting  a  trading  house  built  by  the  Dutch  at  Hartford,  in  1681,  the  first 
colony  planted  in  Connecticut  was  the  settiement  of  some  of  the  Massachusetts 
emigrants  at  Windsor.  Soon  afterwards  Hartford  fell  into  the  possession  of  the 
English  colonists.  Wethersfield  was  next  occupied,  in  1636,  and  New  Haven, 
in  1688.  The  State  had  its  share  of  Indian  troubles  In  its  earUer  history,  and  of 
endurance,  later,  in  the  days  of  the  Revolution. 


THE  HOUSATONIO  VALLEY,  BIYEB,  I  ersed  by  the   Housatonio  river   and 

AND  EAILROAD.  I  railroad,  extends  for  about  100  miles 

The  valley  of  the  Housatonio,  trav- 1  northwud  from  Long  Island  Sound, 


CK>jijiKO'riouT,---KAsaAOinT8Brre, 


81 


Talley  of  tlu  Honvtonio— BeAaUra,  Mats. 


through  the  extreme  west  of  Oonneoti-  • 
out  and  Masnohufletta,  including  the 
fiunoufl  county  of  Berkshire  in  the 
former  State.  The  whole  region  is  re- 
plete with  picturesque  and  social  attraer 
tions,  and  has  long  been  resorted  to 
for  summer  trarel  and  reddehce.  It  is 
a  county  of  bold  hills,  pleasant  valleys, 
and  beautifal  streanuh— more  particu- 
larly  that  portion  lying  in  Berkshire. 
Saddle  Mountun,  in  the  north  part  of 
this  county,  is  the  highest  luid  in 
Massachusetts.  The  natural  beauties 
of  Monument  Mountidn,  also  in  Berk- 
shire, have  been  hdghtened  by  tradi- 
tionary story,  and  by  the  verse  of 
Bryant  Stockbridge  and  Great  Bar^ 
rington— very  popular  summer  homes- 
are  here.  Lenox,  honored  by  the  resi- 
dence of  the  authoress,  Miss  0.  M. 
Sedgwick ;  and  Pittsfield,  the  home  of 
Melville  and  Hohnes.  North  and  South 
Adams,  too,  and  WilUamstown,  the  seat 
of  Williams  College— -but  we  will  fol- 
low the  line  of  the  valley,  and  glance, 
Driefly,  at  its  points  of  interest  in  due 
order. 

From  New  Tork,  take  the  New 
Haven  Rulroad,  68  miles,  to  Bridgeport, 
on  the  Sound,  thence  up  the  valley,  on 
^e  Housatonio  road ;  or  take  the  Hud- 
son river,  or  the  River  Baiboad  route, 
116  miles,  to  the  city  of  Hudson,  and 
thence  by  Hudson  and  Berkshire  Rail- 
road, 84  miles,  to  West  Stockbridge; 
or  the  Harlem  Rulroad,  to  its  intersec- 
tion with  the  Hudson  and  Berkshire,  at 
Chatham  Four  Comers. 

From  Albany,  by  the  Albany  and  Boa- 
ton  road,  88  miles,  to  State  Line 
(HoQsatoiuc  road) ;  or  onward  to  Pitts- 
field.  From  Boston  by  western  (Al- 
bany) road,  161  miles,  to  Pittsfield. 

Oanaaa  is  87  milea  above  Bridge- 

C>rt.  The  Falls  here,  which  are  the 
rgest  in  Connecticut,  are  very  bold 
and  picturesque.  The  waters  traverse 
a  ledge  of  limestone,  and  make  a  de- 
scent of  60  feet. 

The  Balisboxy  Lakaa.  The  country 
west  of  Canaan,  as  all  this  part  of  the 
State,  is  beautifully  embellished  with 
hill  and  lake  scenery.  The  Twin  Lakes, 
in  Salisbury,  are  very  charming  waters. 
3* 


Bhaffldd  is  a  prosperous  village, 
famous  for  its  mani^ctures,  and  foiilta 
varied  attraotions  in  hills  and  cascades, 
and  othf  r  forms  of  natural  beauty. 

Ckwit  Banipgtoii,  with  exeelleni 
hotels  for  summer  travel,  is  a  place  of 
favorite  resori.  Mount  Peter,  on  the 
southern  edge,  overiooks  the  village 
pleasantly;  and  it  is  most  agreeably 
seen  approaching,  on  the  river  road, 
firom  the  north. 

Th*  T^nglwirio  If  oaataiiM,  a  range 
extending  from  the  Green  Hills  of  Yer* 
mont,  liebetween  the  Bouaatonic  valley 
and  the  Httds(m  River.  Mount  Wadi- 
ington,  Mount  Riga,  and  other  peaks, 
are  interesting  places  of  i^rima^e  and 
exploration.  The  Falls  of  Basbpfsh  are 
in  this  hOl  range.  Following  the  Hou- 
satonio, and  pasdng  Monument  Moun- 
tain, we  reach 

Old  Stooktaiidgw.  This  is  one  of  the 
quietest  and  most  winsome  retreats  ia 
the  worid,  lying  in  the  lap  of  a  fertile^ 
hill-fiheltered  valley.  The  houses,  which 
are  all  &r  apart,  and  buried  in  dense 
verdure,  stand  back  in  gardens,  upon 
either  side  of  a  broad  street  or  road, 
thickly  lined  with  noble  specimens  of  the 
ever-attractive  New  England  elm.  There 
is  a  pleasant,  well-ordered  hotel  here. 
Miss  Sedgwick  has,  in  her  stories,  woven 
much  romantic  interest  about  many 
spots  in  t^is  vicinity,  and  about  her 
own  home  of  Lenox  near  by. 

Iirtiiion  Springs  (N.  T.),  and  th« 
Shaker  village  are  hereabouts.  (See 
New  TorkO 

Pitttfiald,  Berkshire  County,  Mass., 
is  a  large  manufacturing  and  agricul- 
tural town,  elevated  1,000  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  It  is  161  miles 
west  from  Boston,  and  49  east  from 
Albany.  The  village  is  beautifully  situ- 
ated, and  contains  many  elegant  public 
edifices  and  private  dwellings.  In  thia 
village  there  is  still  standing  one  of  the 
origmal  forest  trees— a  large'  elm,  120 
feet  high,  and  90  feet  to  the  lowest 
limb — an  interesting  relic  of  the  prim- 
itive woods,  and  justly  esteemed  a  curi- 
osity by  persons  visiting  this  place. 
$he  town  received  its  present  name  in 


$2 


OONKMCi'lOUT.— MASaAOHUSBTW. 


Tallejr  of  tlM  Honnitonla. 


Monament  Moantaln,  Maas. 


1*761,  in  honor  of  WilUam  Pitt,  (Earl 
of  Chatham). 

Upon  a  fine  spaoious  square  in  the 
heart  of  the  town,  are  the  principal 
hotels,  the  Berlcshire  Medical  School, 
a  popular  institution,  founded  in  1828, 
and  the  First  Congregational  Church,  a 
Gt>tliic  structure  of  stone,  erected  in 
1868.  There  is,  too,  a  prosperous  Young 
Ladies*  Institute  here,  which  occupies- 
several  admirable  buildings,  surrounded 
by  wdl-embellished  grounds.  Pittsfield 
is  a  large  depot  of  manufactures,  being 
extensively  engaged  in  the  production 
of  cotton  and  woollen  goods,  machin- 
ery,'fire-arms,  and  railroad  oars.  The 
population  of  the  township  is  nearly 
7,000.  It  is  upon  the  Western  Railway, 
fi^m  Boston  to  Albany,  at  the  northern 
terminus  of  the  Housatonic  valley  route, 
and  at  the  southern  terminus  of  the 
Pittsfield  and  North  Adams  Riulway. 

The  scenery  of  this  region,  traversed 
,  by  the  western  road  through  Berkshire, 
from  Boston  to  Albany,  is  often  of  very 
impressive  aspect. 

Afier  leaving  the  wide  meadows  of 
the  Connecticut,  basldng  in  their  rich 
inheritance  of  dluvial  soil,  and  unim% 


peded  sunshine,  you  wind  through  the 
narrow  valleys  of  the  Westfield  river, 
with  masses  of  mountains  before  you, 
and  woodland  heights  crowding  in  upon 
you,  so  that,  at  every  puff  of  the  engine, 
the  passage  visibly  contracts.  The  Al- 
pine character  of  the  river  strikes  you. 
The  liuge  stones  in  its  wide  channel, 
which  have  been  torn  up  and  rolled 
down  by  the  sweeping  torrents  of  spring 
and  autumn,  ,^lie  bared  and  whitening  in 
the  summer  sun.  Ton  cross  and  re- 
cross  it,  as  in  its  deviations  it  leaves 
space,  on  one  side  or  the  other,  for  a 
practicable  road. 

At "  Chester  Factories*'  you  begin  your 
ascent  of  80  feet  in  a  mile  for  18  miles. 
The  stream  between  you  and  the  precip- 
itous Iiill  side,  cramped  into  its  rocky 
bed,  is  the  Pontoosne,  one  of  the  trib- 
utaries of  the  Westfield  river.  As 
you  trace  this  stream  to  its  mountain 
home,  it  dashes  along  beside  you  with 
the  recklessness  of  cUldhoqd.  It  leaps 
down  precipices,  runs  forth  laughing  m 
the  dimpling  sunshine,  and  then,  shy  as 
the  mountain  nymph,  it  dodges  behind 
a  knotty  copse  of  evergreens.  In  ap- 
proooliing  tiie    "summit   level,"  you 


XBODB  ISLAHD. 


ProirldMiee  ud  Ytdaitjr. 


irftTel  bridges  built  100  fe«t  abov^ 
other  mountain  streanu,  tearing  along 
their  deep-worn  beds;  and  at  the 
"deep  out**  your  paasage  li  hewn 
through  aolid  roolis,  whoae  mighty 
walla  firown  over  you. 

The  PiUtfitld  and  Iforth  Adam$  Mail- 
roadMovte.  This  road  extends  20  miles, 
via  Packard's,  Berkshire,  Cheshire,  Che- 
shire Harbor,  Maple  Orore,  and  South 
Adams  to  Korth  Adams. 

Adaaub  The  Tillages  of  North  and 
South  Adams  are  in  the  immediate 
neighborhood  of  Saddle  Mountain. 
Thu  noble  peak  has  an  elevation  of 
8,600  feet,  and  is  the  highest  land  in 


Massachusetts.  There  is  a  notabto 
natural  bridge  upon  Hudson's  brook 
in  this  township.  i, 

WllUuMtoim,  near  North  AdamiL 
is  the  seat  of  Williams  College,  founded 
in  1798.  This  institution  is  well  en< 
dowed,  and  holds  high  rank  among 
the  best  educationlal  establishments  of 
the  country.  The  TiHage  is  in  one  of 
the  moit  picturesque  portions  of  {do* 
turesque  Beriuhire. 

N«w  HaiNB,  Bwrtfaid,  Aa  For 
mention  of  these  and  other  cities  and 
scenes  of  Conneotieot,  see  Index  and 
Routes  to  Boston  from  New  Torii^ 
under  the  huA  of  Massachusetts. 


,.  RHODE  ISLAin>. 

Ba<HD>a  Jatiimt  Is  tiie  smallest  of  the  many  States  of  the  grtet  Amerieaik  con* 
federaoy,  her  entire  area  not  exoeedins  1806  miles,  with  an  extreme  ledjgth  and 
breadth,  respectively,  of  47  and  87  mfles. 

The  oounti^  Is  most  plieasantiy  varied  with  hill  and  dale,  though  there  are  no 
mountains  of  any  great  pretenitionB.  Ample  compensation  for  this  lack  in  the 
natural  scenery,  is  made  bv  the  numberless  small  lakes  which  abound  every 
where,  and  e^cially  by  the  beautiAil  waters  and  islands  and  shores  of  the 
Norragansett  Bay,  which  occupy  a  great  portion  of  the  Httie  area  of  the  States 
Its  capitals,  Providence  and  Newport,  are  among  the  most  ancient  and  i^ost 
interesting  places  in  the  land,  and  the  latter  has  of  late  years  become  the  mosfc 
fiuhionable  of  all  the  numerous  American  watering-places. 

Rhode  Island  was  first  settled  at  Providence,  in  1686,  by  Roger  Williams.  To 
the  enlightened  and  liberal  mind  of  Williams  in  Rhode  Island,  and  to  the  like 
true  wisdom  of  Fenn  in  Pennsylvania,  and  of  Lord  Baltimore  in  Marybmd, 
America  owes  its  present  happy  condition  of  entue  freedom  of  conscience  ;— 
perfect  religious  toleration  havhig  been  made  a  cardinal  point  in  the  policy  of 
these  colonies. 

The  people  of  Rhode  Island  were  early  and  active  participants  in  the  war  of 
the  Revolution,  and  many  spots  within  her  borders  tell  thrilling  tales  of  the 
stirring  incidents  of  those  memorable  days. 


PBOTIDENOE  AHD  YIOmiTY. 
Providence,  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
fhl  cities  of  New  England,  and  surpassed 
only  by  Boston  in  wealth  and  popula- 
tion, is  a  semi-capital  of  Rhode  Island, 
on  the  northern  arm  of  the  Narragan- 
sett  Bay,  called  Providence  River.  It 
is  an  ancient  town,  dating  back  as  far 
a&  1686,— when  its  founder,  Roger 
Williams,  driven  from  the  donudns  of 


Massachusetts,  sought  here^  that  rell« 
gious  liberty  which  was  demed  to  him 
elsewhere.  It  bears  its  venerable  age, 
however,  bravelv,  and  looks,  to-day,  as 
youthful  and  vigorous  as  the  Aladdin 
cities  of  yesterday-T-yet  with  the  accu- 
mulated refinements  and  amenities.  In 
its  social  character,  of  very  many  cul- 
tivated generations.  This  city  makes  a 
charming  picture  seen  from  the  ap- 


•I 


84 


BHODX  SSLAKD. 


ProrldoBM  ud  the  ProTldaaoe  BiT«r. 


8 roach  by  the  beMitiAil  waters  of  the 
rarraguuett,  which  it  encircles  on  the 
north  by  its  business  quarter,  rising  be- 
yond and  rather  abruptly,  to  a  lofty 
terrace,  where  the  quiet  and  nateftilly 
shaded  streets  are  filled  with  dabity 
cottages  and  grand  manorial  homes. 
ProTidence  was  once  a  rery  important 
commercial  depot,  its  rich  ships  cross- 
ing  all  Bea»— «nd  at  the  present  day  the 
city  is  equally  distinguished  for  its  man- 
ufacturing wealth  and  enterprise.  In 
this  department  of  human  acbievement 
it  took  the  lead,  which  it  still  keeps, — 
the  first  cotton  mill  which  was  biult  in 
America,  being  still  in  use,  in  its  sub- 
urban villaee  of  Pawtuoket,  and  some 
of  the  heaTiest  mills  and  print-works  of 
the  Union  being  now  in  operation  within 
its  borders,  ^le  value  of  the  annual 
product  of  the  cotton  mills  and  print- 
works of  ProTidenoe,  is  estimated  at 
nearly  four  millions  of  dollars ;  Hhat  of 
the  manlifacturers  of  jewelry  of  various 
kinds — its  establishments  in  this  labor 
being  no  less  than  from  sixty  to  seventy 
in  number — at  two  and  a  half  millions. 
It  has  al^c  extensive  manufactories  of 
steam  machinery,  and  of  tools  and  im- 
plements of  all  sorts,  and  it  famishes 
the  nuyor  part  of  all  the  screws  used  in 
the  United  States.  The  workshops  of 
the  Eagle  Screw  Company,  where  these 
Uttie  implements  are  made,  are  among 
the  best  appointed  in  the  world.  The 
total  capital  invested  here,  in  manu- 
factures, is  six  millions  of  dollars. 

Proiridence  is  the  seat  of  Brown 
Universitt,  one  of  the  best  educational 
establishments  in  America,  founded  in 
Warren,  B.  I.,  1764,  and  removed  to 
Providence  in  17V  0.  Its  library  is  verv 
large,  valuable,  and  is  remarkably  rich 
in  rare  and  costiy  works. 

The  Athxn^cm  has  a  fine  reading- 
room,  and  a  coDeotion  of  19,000  books. 
Tlie  Butler  Hospital  for  the  Insane, 
upon  the  banks  of  the  Seekonk  Biver, 
is  an  admirable  institution,  occupying 
large  and  imposing  edifices.  In  the 
same  part  of  the  city,  and  lying  also 
upon  the  Seekonk  Kver,  is  the  Ceme- 
tery, a  spot  of  great  rural  beauty.  There 
are  about  fifty  public  schools  m  Provi- 


dence, in  which  instruction  is  riven  to 
between  six  and  seven  thousand  pupils, 
at  an  annual  expense  of  over  $45,000. 
one-fourth  only  of  which  is  contributed 
by  the  State.  The  Dexter  Asylum  for 
the  Poor,  is  npon  an  elevated  range  of 
land  east  of  the  river.  In  the  same 
vicinage  is  the  yearly  meeting  boardinc 
school,  belonj^g  to  the  Society  of 
Friends.  The  Beform  School  occupies 
the  large  mansion  in  the  south-east  part 
of  the  city,  formerly  known  as  the 
Tockwotton  House.  The  Exchange,  the 
Bail  Bead  Depot,  some  of  the  banks, 
and  many  of  the  churches  of  Provi- 
dence are  imposing  structures. 

The  topography  and  the  natural  soene> 
ry  of  Pro^dence  and  its  vicinity,  are 

Seat  temptations  to  tourists  and  to 
ose  seeking  pleasant  summer  abodes. 
Situated  upon  the  shore  of  the  Nam* 
gansett  Bay,  and  connected  with  it  at 
all  points  by  railway  and  steamboat,  it 
unites  all  the  pleasures  of  city  and 
country  life. 

Upon  the  immediate  edge  of  the  city, 
on  the  shore  of  a  charming  bay  in  the 
Seekonk  Biver,  is  the  fkmous'  What 
Cheir  Book,  where  the  founder  of  the 
city,  Boger  Williams,  landed  from  the 
Massachusetts  side  to  make  the  first 
settlement  here.  From  this  rock  he 
was  greeted  by  the  Indians,  with  the 
salutation  which  gives  name  to  the  spot. 

At  Hurt's  Mill,  three  or  four  miles 
distant,  is  a  beautifol  brook  with  a  de- 
licious little  cascade,  a  drive  to  which 
is  among  the  moining  or  evening  pleas- 
ures of  the  Providence  people  and 
their  guests. 

YuE  DK  L'Eav,  is  the  name  of  a  pic- 
turesque and  spacious  summer  hotel, 
perched  (four  or  five  miles  below  the 
city)  upon  a  high  terrace  overlooking 
the  Bay  and  its  beauties  for  many  miles 
around. 

Qwqpee  Point,  below,  npon  the  oppo- 
site  shore  of  the  Narragansett,  tells  a 
stirring  story  of  the  initial  days  of  the 
Bevolution,  when  some  citizens  of  Pro- 
vidence, after  adroitly  beguiling  an  ob- 
noxious British  revenue  cran  upon 
the  treacherous  bar,  stole  down  by 
boats  in  the  night  and  settied  her  busi- 


BHODX  ISLAITD. 


85^'' 


are 


PbMM  ud  SceBM  in  th«  N»mcuiMtt  Baj. 


by  burning  her  to  the  water's 
edge. 

Rooky  Folat,  is  a  wonderftil  sum- 
mer retreat  among  sliady  grores  and 
rookj  glens,  upon  the  west  shore  of  the 
Bij.  In  summer-time  half  a  dozen 
boats  plj,  each  twice  a  day,  on  excur- 
sion trips  from  Providence  to  Tarious 
rural  points  down  the  Bay,  charging  26 
cents  only  for  the  round  voyage. 

Rooicy  Point  is  the  most  favored  of  all 
these  rural  recesses.  Hundreds  come 
here  daily  and  feast  upon  delicious 
clams,  just  drawn  from  the  water  and 
roasted  on  the  shore,  in  heated  seaweed, 
upon  true  and  orthodox  "clam  bake" 
principles.  Let  no  visitor  to  Providence 
fail  to  eat  clams  and  chowder  at  Rooky 
Point,  even  if  he  should  never  eat  again. 

The  charming  towns  of  Warren  and 
Bristol  are  across  the  Bay,  each  worthy 
of  a  long  visit.  They  may  both  be 
reached  several  times  a  day  from  Prov- 
idence, by  the  Providence,  Warren  and 
Bristol  Railroad. 

Mount  Bop^  the  famous  home  of 
the  renowned  King  Philip,  the  last  of 
the  Wampanoags,  .is  just  below  Bris- 
tol, upon  Mount  Hope  Bay,  an  arm  of 


the  Narragansett  on  the  east.     The 
bare  crown  of  this  |dcturesque  height 

K resents  a  glorious  panorama  of  tfaj^ 
eautiful  Rhode  Island  waters.  Upon 
the  shore  of  Mount  Heme  Bay,  oppoiite, 
is  the  busy  viUage  of  Fall  River,  which 
we  have  already  visited,  on  our  route 
to  Boston  from  New  York.  OIT  on  our 
right,  as  we  stUl  descend  towards  the  sea, 
is  Greenwich,  and  near  by  it,  the  birth- 
place and  home  of  General  Nathaniel 
Oreene--ihe  revolutionary  hero— and 
just  below  is  the  township  and  ( lying 
inland)  the  village  of  Kingston.  In 
this  neighborhood  there  once  stood  the 
old  snuff-mill  in  which  Gilbert  Stuart, 
the  fkmous  American  painter,  was  born. 
Preacotft  Mead  Quarten,  is  a  spot 
of  Revolutionary  interest,  on  the  west- 
em  shore  of  the  Uirge  island  filling  the 
lower  part  of  the  My,  the  island  after 
which  the  State  is  named. 

At  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
island,  is  the  venerable  town  of  New- 
port, at  this  day  the  most  fashionable 
of  all  summer  watering-|daces.  '  Leav- 
ing Newport  for  a  chapter  by  itself,  let 
us,  now  that  we  have  run  rapidly  down 
the  80  miles  of  the  Narragansett  waters, 


leoppo- 
,  tells  a 
)  of  the 
of  Pro- 
r  anob- 
t  upon 
own  by 
ler  busi- 


lIOQBt  Hope,  Bhode  Idaiid. 


BBODI  ISLAND. 


BoatN  to  ProrldtiiM— NtwpoH. 


'ort  Domplliif^  Sonport,  B.  L 


retara  for  anotlier  mommit  to  PtotI* 
denoc. 

We  may  g«t  here  any  day  from  New 
Tork,  by  the  Fall  Rirer  route  f(^r  Boe- 
ton,  round  Point  Judith  from  the  aea,  up 
the  Narraganaett  (oaUiag  at  Newport) 
to  FaU  River,  in  Ifount  Hope  Bay, 
and  thence  by  a  Proridenoe  iteamer. 
Or  we  may  come  by  the  Stonington 
route  from  New  Toric,  to  Stonington  by 
steamer,  thence  by  railway,  or  by  the 
New  Baren  route,  from  New  Tork  to 
Boston,  as  far  as  Hartford,  then  chang- 
ing cars  for  those  of  the  ProTidenoe, 
Hartford  and  Fishkill  road;  or  we  may 
come  from  Boston,  any  hour,  almost, 
by  the  Boston  and  Providence  road. 

Distance  from  New  Tork  to  Provi- 
dence, about  1*70  milea— usual  fare, 
$8  60.  Distance  from  Boston,  48  miles 
—fare,  $1  60.  Population  of  Provi- 
dence, about  48,000. 

Hoteh.  Providence  is  a  notable  ex- 
ception to  the  general  rule  of  Ameri- 
can cities,  in  respect  to  the  provision 
of  public  hos|dtality.  The  oidy  house 
which  we  can  commend  to  the  stranger 
is  the  City  Hotel',  on  Broad  street 

JJBWPOBT. 

If  Newport  were  not,  as  it  is,  the  most 
elegant  and  lashionable  of  all  American 
watering-places,  its  topographical  beau- 
ties, its  ancient  commercial  importance, 
and  its  many  interesting  historical  associ- 
ations, would  yet  claim  for  it  distingukh- 


ed  mention  in  these  pages.  Oominff  ia 
ttom  the  sea  round  Point  Judith,  a  Tew 
miles  brinff  the  traveller  into  the  waten 
of  the  lurragansett  Bay,  where  he 
passes  between  Fort  Wolcott,  on  Ooat 
Island,  and  the  stronghold  of  Fort 
Adams,  upon  Brenton  Point  on  the 
right,  and  enters  the  harbor  of  the 
ancient  town,  once  among  the  commer- 
cial capitals  of  the  Union. 

In  the  Revolution,  the  British  long 
held  possession  of  Newport,  during 
which  time,  and  at  their  departure,  n 
became  almost  desolate.  Before  leav- 
ing, thev  destroyed  480  buildings,  burn- 
ed the  ughthouse,  cut  down  all  the  or- 
namental and  fruit  trees,  broke  up  the 
wharves,  used  the  churches  for  riding- 
schools,  and  the  State  House  for  an  hos- 
pital, and  carried  off  the  church  bells 
and  the  town  records  to  New  Tork; 
disasters  which  reduced  the  population 
from  12,000  to  4,000.  But  the  incidents 
of  this  period  have  left  some  pleasant 
memories  for  the  present  day ;  and  re- 
membrances of  the  fkme  of  Oommodore 
Perry,  the  gallant  commander  on  Lake 
Erie,  who  was  bom  in  Narragansett, 
R.I.,  across  the  bay,  and  whose  remains 
lie  now  in  Newport ;  of  the  residence 
of  Ropbambeau,  and  other  brave  offi- 
cers of  the  i^ench  fleet ;  and  of  the 
visits  of  General  Washington,  and  the 
fkea  given  in  his  honor ;  the  venerable 
buildings  associated  with  all  these  inci- 
dents being  still  to  be  seen. 


ol 

so 
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BRODB  ULAXTD. 


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Newport 


nnlngin 
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i«  waters 
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\Uh  long 
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,-  and  re- 
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on  Lake 
gansett, 
„  remains 
[reridence 
>rave  offl- 
id  of  the 
^,  and  the 
renerable 
kese  ind* 


The  Old  Btone  Mill,  Newport. 

The  old  town  lies  near  the  water,  but 
of  late  years,  dnce  the  place  has  grown 
so  great  as  a  summer  reridenoe,  a  new 
city  of  charming  Tillas  and  sumptuous 
mansions  has  sprung  np,  extending 
far  along  upon  the  terraces  which 
overlook  the  sea.  The  flood  of  travel 
has  called  up,  too,  a  number  of  magnifi- 
eent  hotels,  of  which  the  chief  are,  the 
Ocean  House,  at  the  south  end  of  Belle- 
Tue  street;  the  Atlantic  House,  at  the 
head  of  Pelham  street;  the  Bellerue 
House,  on  Catherine  street ;  the  Aquid- 


itpck  and  the  Fillmore.  Of  the  old 
biyil4ings,  and  of  those  whioh  belong  to 
Newport  ptr  Hi  instead  of  in  its  charae<' 
ter  of  a  waterinff-plaoe,  are,  the  aneient 
State  nouae  (for  Newport  is  a  semi* 
capital  of  Rhode  Island),  the  Redwood 
Library  and  Atheuffttm,  the  Old  Btone 
Mill,  an  interesting  relio  of  a  period 
past  remembrance  and  almost  of  tradi> 
tlon ;  TammiBy  Hall  Institute,  Trinity 
Ohuroh,  the  Vernon  fiunily  mansion, 
tiie  Perry  monument.  Com.  Ferry's 
house,  the  City  Hall,  the  fortifications 
in  the  harbor,  Fort  Adami,  Fort  Wol- 
oott,  Fort  Brown,  and  its  surrounding 
rocks  called  the  ihmpHng$^  etc. 

The  chief  picturesque  attractions  of 
the  town  and  its  immediate  Tioinity,  are 
the  fine  ocean  shores,  known  as  the 
First,  the  Second,  and  the  Third  Beach. 
It  is  the  First  Beach  which  is  chiefly 
used  as  a  bathing  ground  by  the  New- 
port guests.  At  the  Second  Beach  are 
the  famous  rocks  called  Pursatory,  and 
the  Han^ng  Rocks,  witbhi  whose 
shadow  it  is  said  that  the  celebrated 
Bishop  Berkeley  wrote  his  "Minute 
Philosopher."  Here,  too,  groups  of 
fishermen  may  be  seen  drawing  their 
nets  for  the  manhaden  and  blue>lsh,  or 


Pufatoij,  Newport,  B.  L 


\ 


88 


m. 


NSW  HAMPSUnUL 


r 


BoatM  to  the  White  Mouitaliu. 


horse-mackerel,  with  whioh  the  waters 
abound,  fearer  to  the  town,  and 
upon  the  boast,  is  the  great  Spouting 
Oare. 

The  Olen,  and  other  localities,  are 
charming  places  to  ride  to,  when,  the 
weather  is  auspicious. 

Newport  was  the  birthplace  of  the 
lifted  miniature  punter  Malbone,  and 
Gilbert  Stuart's  place  of  nativity  may 
be  seen  in  Narragansett,  across  the  bay. 
Stuart  made  two  copies  of  his'  great 
Washington  picture  for  Rhode  Icund, 


one  of  which  may  be  seen  in  the  State 
House  at  Newport,  and  the  other  in  that 
at  Providence,  the  twin  caiHtal. 

A.  steamboat  passes  every  day  up  and 
down  the  bav  between  Newport  and  the 
city  of  Pro^dence,  enabling  the  travel- 
ler to  see  at  his  leisure  the  many  nghts 
and  localities  of  all  this  attractive 
neighborhood.  See  routes  from  New 
Tork  ta  Boston  for  ways  of  approach 
to  Newport,  and  chapter  upon  Provi- 
dence and  Ti«i|gitiyfor  scenes  upon  the 
Narragansett  ^ters. 


NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 

Niw  Hamfshim  contuns  some  of  the  grandest  hill  and  valley  and  lake 
scenery  in  America.  The  TThite  Monntuns  here  are  popularly  supposed  to  be 
the  highest  land  east  of  the  Histdssippi  river,  as,  indeed,  they  are,  with  the  cdngle 
exception  of  Black  Mountain  in  North  Carolina.  These  noble  hills  occupy,  With 
their  man^  outposts,  a  very  considerable  portion  of  the  State,  and  form  the 
speciality  in  its  physical  character.  The  reader  will  find  a  detailed  mention  of 
all  these  features,  and  of  the  beautiful  intermediate  lake-reckon,  in  subsequent 
pages. 

On  his  route  from  Boston  to  the  mountain  regions,  the  tourist  will  find  much 
to  interest  him,  if  his  interest  lies  that  way,  in  the  enterprising  manufacturing 
towns  of  the  lower  part  of  the  State.  In  its  historical  records,  New  Hampshire 
has  no  very  striking  passages—no  important  reminiscences,  either  of  the  Revolu- 
tionary War  ot  of  the  later  conflict  with  Great  Britain  in  1812. 

The  railway  lines  of  New  Hampshire  are  numerous  enough  to^ve  ready  access 
to  all  sections  of  her  territory,  and  to  the  neighboring  States.  Occasion  will 
occur  for  ample  mention  of  the  facilities  which  they  afford  for  travel,  as  we  follow 
them,  sieverally,  hither  and  ^.hither. 


BOUTES  TO  THE  WHITE  MOUNTAINS, 
N.H. 

nou  irxw  tobx,  bootoit,  poktlahd,  na 
Via 'Boston. 

Rom  1.  From  Boston,  by  Lake 
Winnipiseogee  and  Conway  Valley. 
(See  routes  from  New  York  to  Boston.) 
From  Haymarket  Square,  Boston,  at 
7  80  A.  H.  and  12  M.,  26  miles  to  Law- 
rence by  Boston  and  Mai^'^e  road;  27 
miles  to  Manchester,  upon  Manchester 
and  Lawrence  R.  R. ;  18  miles  to  Con- 
cord, upon  Concord  R.  R. ;  88  miles  to 
Weirs,  on  Lake  Winnipiseogee,  by 
Boston  and  Concord  and  Manchester 
B.R.;  lOmilesby  steamer  Lady  of  the 


Lake,  on  Lake  Winidpiseogee  to  Centre 
Harbor  (dine  at  Centre  Harbor);  80 
miles  by  stage  to  Conway ;  arrive  at 
Conway  in  the  evening,  remain  there 
all  night,  and  pioceed,  24  miles,  to 
Crawford  House,  White  Mountidn  Notch, 
next  day.  Total  distance  from  Boston 
to  the  Crawford  House,  168  miles; 
time,  2  days  and  I  night;  fare,  $7  45. 
Distance  from  New  Tork,  481  miles; 
time,.2  days  and  2  nights;  fare,  about 
$12  46.  Passengers  bv  the  Boston 
morning  train  onfy  reach  Conway  the 
same  evening.  Those  taking  No.  2,  or 
noon  train,  ^11  pass  the  night  at  Centre 
^bor,  on  Lake*  Winnipiseogee,  and 


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the  next  night  «t  Oonwav,  reaching  the 
moantaioB  on  ^he  third  day. 

RouTi  2.  Fom  Boston.  (See  routes 
from  New  Torlc  to  Boston.)  Leave 
Haymarlcet  Square  (as  in  route  1)  at 
1  80  ▲.  X.  and  12  u.\  68  miles  to 
Dover,  N.  H.,  upon  Boston  and  Maine 
R.  R. ;  tbenoe  to  Alton  Bay,  28  miles, 
upon  Cocheco  R.  R. ;  thence,  80  tallies, 
by  steamer  Dover  (dine  on  board)  to 
Wolf  boro*  and  Centre  Harbor,  on  Lalce 
Winnipiseogee ;  thence  by  stage,  via 
Conway,  to  the  mountains,  as  in  Route 
No.  1. 

Passengers  by  morning  train  only, 
from  Boston,  reach  Conway  same  night. 
Those  by  second,  or  noon  train,  will 
pass  the  night  at  Wolf  boro*  or  Centre 
Harbor.  From  Boston  to  Crawford 
House,  by  this  route,  96  miles  by  rail* 
road,  80  by  steamboat,  and  64  by  stage ; 
total,  180.  Time,  2  days  and  1  ni^t, 
from  Boston ;  fare,  |7  46. 

RouTK  8.  From  Boston.  At  1  80  ▲.x. 
and  12  x.  (station.  Causeway  street), 
26  miles  to  Lowell,  by  Boston  and 
Lowell  R.  R. ;  16  miles  to  Nashua,  upon 
Nashua  and  Lowell  R.  R. ;  85  miles  to 
Concord,  upon  Concord  R.  R. ;  after- 
wards as  in  Route  No.  1.  Distance, 
time,  and  fare  the  same.  ' 

Route  4.  From  Boston,  same  as  in 
Routes  Nos.  1  and  8,  as  far  as  Weirs  on 
Lake  Winnipiseogee;  thence,  con- 
tinuing upon  the  riulroad,  18  miles  firom 
Weirs,  to  Plymouth,  N.  H ;  dine  at  Ply- 
mouth, and  proceed  by  stage,  24  miles, 
through  West  Campton,  etc.,  to  the 
Flume  House,  Franconia  Notch,  the 
western  end  of  the  mountains.  Passen- 
gers by  the  morning  train  from  Boston 
will  reach  the  Flume  House,  Franconia 
Notch,  same  evening.  Those  taking  the 
second  train  will  stay  over  until  next 
day  at  Plymouth.  Distance  from  Bos- 
ton to  Flume  House,  148  miles,  being 
124  by  railway  and  24  by  stage.  Time, 
from  Boston  by  morning  line,  10  hours ; 
&re,  |5  15.  Stages  daily  from  Fhime 
House,  5  miles,  to  the  Profile  House, 
22  miles  to  White  Mountain  House; 
thence,  6  miles,  to  Crawford  House, 
terminus  of  Routes  1,  2,  and  3,  on  the 
east  side.    Distance  from  Flume  House 


to  Crawford  House,  86  miles.    Fare, 
$8.  ^ 

Ronn  6.  From  Boston,  same  as  in 
Routes  1  and  8,  to  Weics ;  thence  (as 
in  Route  4)  to  Plymouth  (dinei),  oontin- 
uing  upon  the  railroad,  42  miles,  fit>m 
Plymouth  to  Wells  River;  thence  upon 
White  Mountain  R.  B.,  20  miles,  to 
littleton;  thence  by  stage,  11  miles,  to 
Profile  House,  and  6  miles  further  to 
Flume  House,  or  28  miles  to  Crawford 
House.  Passengers  by  the  early  train 
only  reach  the  mountains  the  same 
idght.  Those  taking  second  tndn  stay 
till  next  day  at  Plymduth.  From  Bo** 
ton  to  Profile  House,  198  miles;  to 
Flume  House,  198  miles ;  to  Crawford 
House,  206  miles.  182  miles  by  rail* 
road,  rest  by  stage.  Fare  from  Boston 
to  Profile  House,  $6  16;  to  Crawford, 
$6  90.    Tfane,  12  hours. 

livm  New  York  or  Boston^  via  Port- 
landf  Maine. 

RovTK  6.  (See  routes  from  New  York 
to  Boston.)  Leave  Boston  for  Portland, 
111  miles  by  railway,  morning  and  even- 
uig,  from  Haymarket  street,  via  Read* 
ing,  Lawrence,  Haverlipl,  Exeter,  etc. 
Through  baggage  for  the  White  Moun* 
tains  to  be  marked,  **  Portland  JSaat.** 
Pastengers  by  last  train  will  dine 
in  Portland,  and  take  Grand  Trunk 
Railway  through  Cumberland,  Tar- 
mouth,  etc.,  91  miles,  to  Oorham,  N.H. 
Second  train  passengers  will  pass  the 
night  at  Portland,  and  proceed  to 
Gorham  next  day.  From  Gorham,  8 
miles,  by  stage  to  Glen  House,  foot  of 
Mount  Washington.  Stages  leave  Glen 
House  every  morning  for  Crawford 
House,  84  miles  distant,  via  Pinkham 
Notch,  also  via  Cherry  Mountain.  From 
Boston  to  Gorham,  202  miles;  from 
Boston,  via  Portland,  Gorham,  Glen 
House,  and  Pinkham  Notch,  to  Craw- 
ford House,  244  miles. 

Route  7.  From  Boston,  via  Portland. 
Leave  Causeway  street,  morning  and 
evening,  by  railway,  through  Lynn, 
Salem,  Beverly,  Newburyport,  Ports- 
mouth, etc.,  to  Portland,  and  thence  as 
in  Route  No.  6. 

Roim  8.  From  Boston  by  steamer  to 


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XTBW  HAMP8HIBB. 


Boutcs  to  the  Whlt«  Moantains. 


Portland,  every  night,  fl-ora  end  of  Cen- 
tral  Wharf;  thence,  aa  in  Route  No.  6. 
Fare  by  this  line,  $8,  from  Boston  to 
Oorham. 

RocTB  9.  From  Boston  to  Portland, 
by  railway  or  steamer,  as  in  Routes  6, 
7,  and  8,  and  thence  by  Sabago  Lake 
and  Pleasant  Mountain  to  Conway; 
thence  to  Crawford  House,  etc.,  as  in 
Route  1. 

JFVom  New  Yorh^  kot  via  JBotton, 

Route  10.  From  New  York  by  rail- 
way, via  New  Haven,  Hartford,  and 
Springfield ;  thence  by  railway  up  the 
Valley  of  the  Connecticut  to  Wells 
River,  and  from  thence  to  Littleton, 
N.  H. ;  from  Littleton  by  stage,  as  in 
route  6. 

RoDTK  11.  From  Pier  18,  Courtlandt 
street.  North  River,  N.  T.,  evfery  eve- 
nine  to  AUyn'a  Point ;  thence  by  railway 
to  Worcester,  Nashua,  and  Concord; 
and  from  Concord  on  the  east  side  by 
Conway  to  Crawford  House,  route  1 ; 
or  on  the  west  side  by  Campton  to  the 
Franconia  Notch,  route  6. 

Route  12.  From  New  Tork  by  Hud- 
son River,  or  Hudson  River  Railway,  to 
Albany  and  Troy;  thence  to  White- 
hall, and  down  Lake  Champlain  to  Bur- 
lington, Vermont ;  thence  by  Vermont 
Central  Railroad  through  the  Winooski 
Valley  and  Oreen  Mountains  (via  Mont- 
pelier),  to  connections  with  the  Connec- 
ticut Valley  roads  to  Littleton,  N.  H. 

Route  13.  From  New  York  by  Hud- 
son River  to  Albany ;  thence  to  White- 
hall, foot  of  Lake  Champlain,  or  other 
routes  to  Rutland,  Vermont ;  thence  to 
Bellows'  Falls,  on  the  line  of  the  Con- 
necticut Valley  road,  to  Littleton, 
N.  H. 

We  might  much  extend  our  list,  but  as 
all  roads  lead  to  Rome,  so  the  ways  to 
the  favorite  summer  haunts  in  the 
White  Mountains  are  infinite. 

DESCRIPTION  or  ROUTES  TO  WHITE 
MOUNTAINS. 

Route  1.  By  Lake  Winnipisseogee 
and  Conway  Valley.  From  Boston,  26 
miles,  to  Lawrence,  via  Boston  and 


Maine  Railroad  (Boston  ^d  Portland), 
passing  numerous  suburban  villages, 
for  which  see  "  Boston  and  Vicinity." 
Lawrence  is  a  large  manufncturinr  city 
(popuUition  16,000),  upon  the  Merri- 
mac  River.  It  is  connected  with 
Lowell  (18  miles  distant),  with  Salem, 
21  miles,  and  with  all  surrounding  points 
by  railway.  It  has  grown  up  suddenly 
within  a  few  years,  having  been  incor- 
porated only  in  1845. 

From  Lawrence  by  Manchester  and 
Lawrence  Railroad,  26  miles  to  Man- 
chester, N.  H.,  still  foUowine  the  Merri- 
mac  River,  upon  which  Manchester, 
like  Lawrence,  is  situated.  At  this 
point  we  are  63.  miles  above  Boston,  and 
18  miles  below  Concoro.  This  place 
has,  like  Manchester  aad  'ithers,  sud- 
denly grown  under  the  development  of 
manufacturing  enterprise— from  an  in- 
considerable village,  into  a  large  and 
populous  city.  Its  charter  was  granted 
in  1846,  and  in  1868  it  had  20,000  in- 
habitants. 

Oonoordi  the  capital  of  New  Hamp- 
shire, is  upon  the  banks  of  the  Merri- 
mac,  18  n^  ilofl  aboveJManchester,  by  the 
Concord  I(ailroad.  'The  State  Capitol, 
the  Lunatic  Asylum,  the  State  Prison, 
are  public  edifit  es  of  interest.  A  Meth- 
odist General  Biblical  Institute  was 
founded  here  in  1847.  We  might 
suggest  to  the  tourist  a  brief  halt  at 
Concord,  were  he  not  now  so  near  yet 
more  attractive  scenes.  Concord  is  71 
miles  from  Boston,  via  Lawrence ;  47 
miles  from  Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  by  Con- 
cord and  Portsmouth  Railroad ;  25  miles 
from  Bradford,  by  the  Concord  and 
Claremont  Railroad;  85  miles  from 
Nashua,  by  Concord  Railroad ;  98 
miles  from  Wells  River,  by  Boston, 
Concord,  and  Montreal  Railroad;  and 
80  miles  from  Fitchburg,  by  the  Fitch- 
burg  Railroad  (Fitchburg  and  Bos- 
ton). 

From  Concord,  our  route  follows  the 
Boston,  Concord,  and  Montreal  Rail- 
road, 83  miles  to  Weirs,  on  Lake  Win- 
nipiseogee,  where  we  take  the  steamer 
Lady  of  the  Lake,  10  miles  to  Centre 
Harbor.  Our  White  Mountain  route, 
No.  6,  continues  on  this  road,  past 


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NSW  HAHPSHXBB. 


91 


White  Honntaln  Bontes—Wlnnipiseogee— Centre  Harbor. 


Weirs,  to  Wella  Biver,  and  Littleton, 
K.  H. 

Iiak*  Wianipiaeogee.  Tlie  little 
Toyage  on  this  beautiful  lake,  is  among 
the  most  agreeable  passages  in  our  pres- 
ent journey  to  the  WMte  Mountains, 
and  well  deserves  a  pilgrimage  to  itself 
Alone.  Winnipiseogee  is  an  enchanting 
reach  of  pure,  translucent  waters,  rery 
irregular  in  form ;  some  23  miles  long, 
ind  firom  one  to  ten  miles  wide.  It  is 
crowded  with  exquisite  island  groups, 
Indented  with  surprising  bays;  and  bold 
mountun  peaks  cast  their  shadows 
every  where- into  its  still,  deep  floods. 

Jted  Mountairiy  about  1,600  feet  high, 
a  remarkably  beautiful  eminence,  is 
situated  on  ^e  N.W.  of  the  above  lake. 
The  ascent  to  the  summit,  although 
Steep  and  arduous,  can  be  effected,  for 
a  portion  of  the  distance,  either  in  a 
carriage  or  on  horseback.  From  the 
S.E.  there  is  a  fino  panoramic  view  of 
the  lake  and  the  adjacent  country. 
On  the  south  o^ends  Mount  Mi^or,  a 
Hdge  of  a  bolder  aspect  and  loftier 
height.  On  the  N.E.  the  great  Ossipce 
raises  its  chain  of  elevations,  with  a 


bold  sublimity,  and  looking  down  in  con> 
scions  pride  upon  the  redons  below.    ; 

Bquam  Xioke  lies  west  from  Red  Moun« 
tain ;.  and  two  miles  N.  W.  from  Winni* 
piseogee  Lake,  is  another  splendid  sheet 
of  water.  It  is  about  six  miles  in  length, 
and  in  its  widest  part  not  less  than  three 
miles  in  breadth,  and,  like  its  neighbor 
(Winnipiseogee),  is  studded  with  a  sue-" 
cession  of  romantic  islands.  This  lake 
abounds  in  trout  of  the  finest  kind. 

OMitr*  Etarbor,  with  its  excellent 
summer  hotel  upon  the  margin  of  Win- 
nipiseogee, is  the  halting  place  for  the 
explorer  of  the  many  beauties  of  this 
region.  White  Mountain  tourists  dine 
here  in  transitu,  and  proceed  for  the 
rest  of  the  way  by  stage  coach,  first  for 
80  miles  through  a  country  of  pictu- 
resque delights  to  Conway  Valley, 
where  they  might  well  linger  till  their 
summer  days  all  went  by. 

Oonway  Vallay  is  a  wide  stretch 
of  delicious  interval  lands  upon  the  Saco 
River,  hemmed  in  upon  all  sides  by 
bold,  mountain  summits,  cUef  among 
which  are  the  stern  olifb  of  Mount 
Washington  itself.    It  is  a  delightful 


Conoord,  New  Hamptbire. 


"i 


i»2 


NEW  HAMPSHTBI!. 


White  Mountain  Boates— Conwsf  YaUey. 


Jjako  Winnipiseogee,  N. 


place  for  artbtio  study,  and  for  smAmer 
residences ;  and  wkhin  a  few  years  past, 
it  has  been  a  favorite  resort  of  the 
American  Landscapists,  and  has  grown 
to  be  a  Teritable  "  watering  place,"  in 
the  great  numbers  of  tourists  who  not 
only  pass,  but  linger  within  its  borders. 
Pleasant  hotels  and  boarding-houses  are 
springing  up,  and  country  villas  even 
are  beginning  to  dot  its  knolls,  and  to 
lurk  in  its  verdant  glens.  The  pictu- 
resque portion  of  tms  valley,  par  ex- 
eellence,  is  North  Conway,  where  the 
Eearsarge  House  (Thompson's),  or  the 
Washington  House,  offers  all  desirable 
hotel  appliances.  Beside  the  distant 
views  of  the  White  Mountain  ranges, 
proper,  which  are  of  surpassing  in- 
terest here,  Conway  is  full  oi  local  and 
neighboring  attractions  of  the  greatest 
beauty,  as  are  the  broad  meadows,  and 
the  wooded,  winding  banks  of  the  Saco ; 
the  nooks  and  turns  of  the  Artists* 
Brook,  and  other  elfish  waters ;  the  Pa- 
quawket  Mountain,  those  grand  perpen- 
dicular cliffs,  650  and  950  feet  in  height, 
called  the  Ledges;  ^e  magnificent 
peaks  of  Kearsarge  and  Ghicorua ;  the 


Echo  Lake,  the  Crystal  Falls,  .and 
Diana's  Bath. 

Conway  village  and  Conway  comers 
are  a  few  miles  below  North  Conway. 
They  are  most  agreeable  places,  en 
route,  amply  supplied  with  hotel  adcom- 
modations.  Leaving  Conway,  as  the 
tourist  does,  the  morning  following  that 
of  his  departure  from  Boston,  he  con- 
tinues on  through  valley  and  over  hill, 
24  miles  to  the  Crawfoi'd  House,  where 
we  shall  meet  him  when  we  have  fol- 
lowed over  other  routes  to  the  thresh- 
old of  the  mountains.  We  will,  how- 
ever, accompany  him  yet  on  his  journey 
from  Conway,  through  Bartlett  and 
Jackson,  by  the  Old  Crawford  House ; 
and  by  the  famous  WiUey  House, 
the  scene  of  the  awful  avalanches  of 
1826,  when  the  entire  Willey  family 
were  destroyed.  (See  furtlur  tnentioH 
later.) 

Roun  2.  From  Boston,  68  miles 
via  Lawrence  to  Dover,  N.  H.,  on  the 
Boston  and  Maine  Railroad.  Dover  is 
a  pleasant  town  of  some  8,000  people ; 
upon  the  banks  and  at  the  falls  of  the 
Cocheco  Biver,  a  tributary  of  the  Pis- 


mDW  HAMP8HIKB. 


98 


White  ICoimtalii  BoatM. 


miles 

on  the 

)oTer  is 

people ; 

of  the 

,e  Pis- 


caiaqua.  Our  route  leads  hence  by  the 
Cocheco  Bailroad  to  Alton  Bay ;  south- 
em  extremity  of  Lake  WinnipiiMogee. 
Here,  we  talce  the  steamer  Dover  for 
Centre  Harbor,  traversing  the  entire 
length  of  the  lake,  and  proceed  thence 
via  Oocwi^,  as  in  Route  1. 

Roura  8.  From  Boston,  26  miles,  to 
the  famous  manufacturing  city  of 
Lowell.  (See  Boston  and  Vicinity.) 
From  Lowell,  16  miles,  to  Nashua — an 
important  manufacturing  town,  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Nashua  with  the  Mer- 
rimac  river;  thence,  86'  miles,  to  Con- 
cord, N.  H.,  and  from  Concord  to 
Weirs  and  Centre  Harbor,  on  Lake 
Winnipiseegee,  and  on,  via  Conway,  as 
in  Routes  1  and  2. 

RouTB  4.  From  Boston,  as  in  Route 
1,  or  8,  to  Weirs,  on  Lake  Winnipis- 
eogee,  thence  on,  without  stopping,  to 
Plymouth,  N.  H.,  where  passengers 
dine  and  take  stage  fcr  the  rest  of  the 
way ;  or  where  they  remain  all  night,  if 
they  leave  Boston  by  the  noon,  instead 
of  the  morning  train.  Plymouth  is  in 
the  midst  of  a  noble  mountain  land- 
scape, being  the  extreme  southern 
threshold  of  the  !*'ranconia  range  of 
the  White  Hills.  It  is  upon  the  banks 
of  the  beautiful  Pemigewasset  river, 
near  its  confluence  with  Baker's 
river.  The  Pemigewasset  House  here, 
at  the  rulway  station,  is  an  inviting 
place  for  summer  tarry.  The  Wells 
Stiver  and  Littleton  route  from  Boston 
to  the.  mountains  by  the  west  passes 
Plymouth. 

Leaving  Plymouth  in  the  stage,  after 
dinner,  we  reach  the  Flume  House,  at 
the  Franconia  Notch,  24  miles  distant, 
the  same  evening,  unless  we  stop  by  the 
way,  as  would  be  very  reasonable--for 
the  whole  journey  is  through  most  invit- 
ing spots  and  places.  The  villages  on  the 
route  are  but  little  affairs ;  and  there  is 
net  a  fashionable  hotel  in  aU  the  distance, 
until  we  reach  the  Flume;  but  there 
are  numerous  small  inns,  where  artists 
and  their  families  are  well  content  to 
pass  the  summer.  There  is  sucfi  an  one 
at 

WMt  Oamptoii|  a  little  hamlet  on 
Pemigewasset  river,  seven  miles  above 


Plymouth.  West  Campton  b  becoming, 
a  greater  resort  of  the  hmdscaM; 
painters  than  North  Conway,  on  the 
south-east  slope  of  the  mountuns,  has 
been  for  several  years  past.  Other 
tourists  will  follow,  and  hotels  and 
boarding-houses  wUl  grow  up  i^ith 
the  demand.  The  views  here,  of  tiie 
Franconia  Hills,  are  especially  fine,  and 
the  river  and  brook  landscape,  with  its 
wealth  and  variety  of  vemtation,  is  of 
extraordinary  interest.  The  Pemige- 
wasset river,  which  rises  in  the  little 
lakes  of  the  Franconia  Moantdus,  winds 
through  all  the  wonderful  valley  which 
we  traverse  between  Plymouth  tt  "d  the 
Flume  House.  We  diall  r^oin  our 
tourist,  by  and  by,  at  the  Flume. 

Rocn  6.  To  Boston,  same  as  hi 
Route  1,  to  Weirs  on  Lake  Winnipis- 
eogee,  thence  on,  without  halt  (as  in 
Route  4),  to  Plymouth,  N.  H.  Thence, 
after  dinner  (morning  train  from  Bos- 
ton), still  upon  the  railroad,  42  miles, 
to  WeUs  River,  Vermont. 

Wells  River  is  at  the  junction  of  the 
Connecticut  and  Wells  river — a  famous 
meeting-point  of  rulway  lines..  Our 
present  route  meets  here  with  the  Con- 
necticut valley  road  to  the  White 
Mountains.  The  Vermont  Central  Road, 
from  Burlington,  on  Lake  Champhtin, 
comes  in  at  White  River  Junction,  40 
miles  below.  From  Wells  River  our 
route  proceeds  by  White  Mountun% 
Railroad,  20  miles,  to  Littleton,  and 
for  the  rest  of  the  way,  by  stage,  either 
to  the  Franconia  Notch,  12  mUes  (Pro- 
file House),  or  to  the  Eastern  or  White 
MountMn  Notch  (Crawford  House),  22 
miles. 

RocTX  6.  Via  Portland,  and  through 
Mune,  on  the  east  side  of  the  mountains. 
This  route,  as  Routes  1,  8,  and  9,  are 
all  agreeable  approaches  to  the  White 
HiUs,  but*  more  circuitous  from  New 
York  or  Boston,  than  either  of  the 
Routes  1  to  6.  The  Boston  and  Maine, 
one  of  the  two  railways  firom  Boston  to 
Portland,  runs  (111  miles)  east  of  north 
and  always  near  the  Atlantic  coast, 
through  portions  of  Massachusetts,  and 
through  New  Hampshire.  (See  **  Bos- 
ton to  Portland.'*)   From  Portland,  our 


' 


RBW  HAMPSHIBB. 


White  Mountain  Bontoa— GorluuiH-Glen  Hoaa«; 


R."    ■■' 


r\. 


present  route  is  by  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railwayi  91  miles,  to  Oorham,  N.  H. 
The  Rev.  Mr.  WiUey,  in  liid"  Incidents 
in  WUte  Mountain  History,"  says  of 
Gorliam,  that  *'it  is  a  rough, \unpro< 
duotire  townsliip,  lying  on  the  northerly 
base  of  the  mountains.  The  opening  of 
the  Adantic  and  St.  Lawrence  Railway 
(the  Orand  Trunk)  brought  the  little 
town  out  from  the  greatest  obscurity, 
and  it  has  become  one  of  the  favorite 
resorts  for  t)ie  travdling  community. 
Its  peooiiaiiy  fiivorable  situation  for 
▼iewmg  Uie  mountdns  was  never  known 
unttt  travellers,  posting  through  its 
borders,  for  other  destmations,  were 
compelled  to  admire  its  beauties. 

« Immediately  on  thecoaipletion  of  the 
railroad  to  tiiis  point.  Uie  Alpine  House 
was  erected,  and  the  announcement 
made,  that  the  cars  set  i^ssengers 
down  at  the  very  base  of  tne  White 
Mountains.  People,  for  a  moment, 
were  dumb  with  astonishment.  It  had 
never  been  supposed  that  there  was 
any  north  or  south,  or  east  or  west,  to 
these  old  heights ;  but  that  every  one 
who  vi^ted  them  must  make  up  his  mind 
for  a  long  stage^soach  ride  through 
Conway  or  Littleton,  and  ultimately  be 
set  down  at  the  Crawford  or  Fabyan's. 
That  the  cars  should  actually  carry 
vildtors  to  the  base  of  the  mountains 
was  something  which  every  one  had 
apposed  would  take  place  in  the  far-off 
Ihtn^,  but  not  until  they  themselves 
had  ceased  to  travel;  but  it  was  cer- 
tainly so;  and  the  Alpine  House  and 
Oorham  had  become  uuuiliar  words  to 
travellers. 

'*  The  Alpine  House  is  a  large  hotel, 
owned  by  the  railroad  company.  It  is 
some  difl^nce  from  the  base  of  the 
mountains,  which  are  seldom  ascended 
from  this  point ;  but  for  quiet  and  com- 
fort, andbeautiM  drives,  it  is  surpassed 
by  no  house  in  the  White  Hills.  A 
beautiful  little  village  has  sprung  up 
around  it,  consisting  uiostly  of  buildings 
owned  by  the  company.  The  Post 
OflSce  is  kept  here,  and  the  telegraph 
affords  an  excellent  opportunity  to 
business  men  to  visit  the  mountains 
and  attend  to  their  buidness  at  thcsame 


time.    Mount  Moriah,  Randolph  Hill, 
Berlin  Falls,  and  Lary's,  should  all  be 
visited  before  the  traveller  takes  his  ^ 
departure." 

The  01«a  Boni%  our  next  point, 
(seven  miles  from  Oorham),  is,  says  Mr. 
Willey,  whom  we  have  Just  quoted,  "  in 
the  valley  of  the  Peabody  river,  imme- 
diately under  Mount  Washington,  and 
in  the  midst  of  the  lirftiest  sumnrits  in 
the  whole  mountain  district.  The  house 
is  situated  in  Bellows*,  clearing,  which 
contains  about  100  acres.  For  a  base 
view  of  the  mounttdns,  no  spot  could 
be  selected  so  good.  Several  huge 
mountains  show  themselves  proudly  to 
view, .  in  front  of  the  piazza,  nothing 
intervening  to  obscure  their  nant  forms. 
You  see  them  before  you  in  an  their 
noble,  calm,  and  silent  grandeur,  sever- 
ally seeming  the  repose  of  power  and 
strength.  On  the  left  is  the  mountain 
bearing  the  teorthiest  name  our  country 
ever  gave  us.  Toward  the  right  of  its 
rock-crowned  summit  rise,  in  full  view, 
the  celebrated  peaks  of  Adams  and 
Jefferson — ^the  one  pointed,  the  other 
rounded.  On  both  wings  of  these 
towering  summits  are  the  tops  of  lesser 
elevations.  In  an  opposite  direction, 
fronting  the  'patriot  group'  of  gigantic 
forms,  is  the  long,  irregular  rise  of 
Carter  Mounttdns." 

It  is  from  the  Olen  Ilouse  that  the 
proposed  carriage-way  is  to  lead  to  the 
summit  of  Mount  Washington.  This 
road,  which  will  be  6ight  miles  long,  is 
to  be  made  to  the  very<  crown  of  the 
lofty  mountain  ;  15  feet  wide,  clear 
of  all  obstructions,  and  Macadamized 
throughout.  The  average  grade  will 
be  an  ascent  of  one  foot  to  eight  and  a 
half  feet,  with  frequent  stations  at  eligi- 
ble points  of  view.  The  carriages  are  to 
be  so  constructed,  that  they  will  pre- 
serve a  level  upon  all  incUnations  of 
.  iicent  or  descent.  The  estimated  cost 
of  this  road  is  100,000  dollars.  A  mag- 
nificent hotel  is  to  be  built  upon  the 
mountain  top. 

From  the  Glen  House  we  must  now 
reach  the  Crawford  House,  on  the 
mountain,  84  miles  distant,  via  the 
Pinokham  Notch,  or  by  CherryMountain. 


NEW  HAMP8HIBB. 


Vk 


The  White  Monntaiiu. 


other 
these 


It  now 
n  the 
ia  the 
funtdn. 


Mount  WaaUiigton,  N.  H. 


BouTi  7,  !s  from  Boston  to  Portland, 
by  the  Eastern  (the  upper)  Railway, 
through  Lynn,  Newburyport,  and  other 
towns  in  Massachusetts,  and  Ports- 
mouth, in  New  Hampshire.  From  Port- 
land  we  proceed  by  Grand  Trunk  road 
to  Gorluun,  as  in  Route  6. 

RouTB  8.  From  Boston  to  Portland, 
by  steamer,  and  thence  as  in  Route  6. 


TBI   WHITB   MOVMTAINS — BCINSS   AND 
IMCIDKNTB. 

These  mountuns  cover  an  area  of 
about  40  miles  square,  in  Northern 
New  Hampshire ;  though  the  name  of 
White  Mountains  is,  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, given  to  the  central  group  only — 
the  half-dozen  lofty  peaks,  of  wmch 
Mount  Washington  is  the  royal  head 
and  front.  The  western  cluster  is 
contra-distinguished  as  the  Franconia 
range.  We  will  suppose  our  tourist  to 
have  made  his  approach  on  the  south- 
east, to  the  Central  or  White  Mountun 
group,  via  Route  4,  Lake  Winnipiseogee 
and  Conway  valley,  and  thus  meet  him 
at  the  Crawford  House,  near  the 


GhnfttNotbh.  The  moantaiiia,whieh 
have  gradually  gathered  about  us,  in 
our  steep  ascen^  here  have  all  closed 
in.  The  magnificent  gateway,  called 
the  Notch,  is  a  chasm  between  two  per* 
pendicular  masses  of  rock,  approaching 
each .  other  to  within  22  feet.  Dark 
overhanging  clifib  stand  as  aentJaela 
over  this  solemn  pass,  and  it  baa  been 
a  woi^  of  toU  to  cut  a  pathway  through 
the  frowning  barrier.  This  gorge  i» 
some  three  miles  long,  descending 
the  valley  of  the  Baco,  towards  *4he 
WiUey  House."  Upon  the  north,  the 
steep  mountdn  walls  climb  the  sky,  to 
the  height  of  2,000  feet  above  the  road 
beneath  them.  The  rugged  flanks  of 
the  devoted  Mount  WiUey,  bearing  yet 
the  fatal  tempest  scars  of  1826,  stops 
the  view  on  the  left,  while  Mount  Web- 
ster— dark,  and  massive,  and  grand,  aa 
was  he  whose  name  it  bears — ^filla  the 
landscape  on  the  right, 

The  White  Mountains  (spedfically 
so  called)  extend  firom  the  Notch,  in 
a  north-easterly  direction,  some  14 
miles,  increaidng  from  each  end  of  the 
line  gradually  in  height  towards  Mount 
Wad^ngton,  in  the  centre.    These  re* 


96 


NEW  RAMPSHIBB. 


White  Monntaliu— Afloeat  of  Moont  Washington. 


■peotire  elevationfl  are,  in  the  order  in 
wliicli.  they  stand,  beginning  at  the 
Notch— Mount  Webster,  >  4,000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea;  Jackson, 
4,100 ;  Olinton,  4,200 :  Pleasant,  4,800; 
Franlclin,  4,900;  Monroe,  6,800;  Wash- 
ington, 6,600;  Clay,  6,400;  Adams, 
6,700 ;  Jefferson,  6,800 ;  and  Madison, 
6,400. 

Passing  westward  from  the  Notch, 
we  reach  the  valley  of  the  Ammanoosuc, 
after  a  distance  of  four  miles,  tluroagh, 
dense  woods,  and  enter  abruptly  into  a 
spacious  clearing,  from  which  the  whole 
mountain  group  bursts  upon  our  won- 
dering sight.  Here,  upon  the  "  Giant's 
Grave,'*  an  eminence  of  some  00  feet, 
the  panorama  is  marvellous.  In  the 
centre  of  the  amphitheatre  of  hills. 
Mount  Washington,  barren,  and  seamed 
and  whitened  by  the  winter  tempests 
of  centuries,  looks  down,  upon  the  right 
and  upon  the  left,  on  the  hoary  heads 
of  Webster  and  Madison— each,  on  its 
side,  the  outpost  of  the  mountain  army. 

BoteLi.  The  Mount  Crawford  House 
—9,  most  excellent  establishment — bears 
the  name  of  the  earliest  hosts  of  these 
mountain  gorges.  The  story  of  the 
adventures  and  the  endurance  of  the 
eariy  settlers  here,  is  extremely  inter- 
esting. How  Captain  Eleazar  Rosebrook, 
of  Massachusetts,  built  a  house  on  the 
Ate  of  the  Giant's  Grave,  four  miles 
from  the  Notch,  afterward  occupied  by 
Fabyan's  Mount  Washington  Hotel* — 
ho#  his  nearest  neighbors  were  20  miles 
away,  excepting  the  Cniwforr*  family, 
12  miles  down  in  the  irotcb  valley — 
the  present  old  Crawford  House,  at  the 
base  of  the  mountains,  coming  from 
Conway,  on  the  south-east.  How  the 
Rosebrook  children  were  often  sent,  for 
family  supplies,  over  the  long  and  dan- 
gerous path  to  the  Crawfords',  return- 
ing, not  unfrequently,  late  at  night — 
how  Ethan  Allen  Crawford  was  heir  to 
the  Rosebrook  estate,  and  how  he  be- 
came known  as  the  *'  Giant  of  the  Hills" 
— ^how  he  and  his  family  made  the  first 
mountain  paths,f  and  were  for  long 

*  Deatroyed  by  fire  and  never  rehnllt 
t^e  first  hridle-path  was  out  by  Ethan 
Crawford,  In  18S1. 


years  the  only  guides  over  them  of  the 
rare  visitors,  which  the  brief  summers 
brought — and  how  they  hare  since  seel 
their  home  thronged,  for  weeks  toge* 
ther,  like  a  city  saloon,  with  beautv  and 
fashion.  The .  Crawibrds  are  a  large, 
athletic  race.  Abel,  the  father,  called 
the  "Patriarch  of  the  mountdns," 
would  walk  five  mountafan  miles,  to  his 
son^,  before  breakfast,  at  the  age  of 
80.  At  70,  lie  made  the  first  ascent 
ever  made  on  horseback,  to  the  top  of 
Mount  Washineton.  His  sons  were  all 
over  six  feet  tM ;  and  one  of  them  was 
six  and  a  half  feet,  and  another,  Ethan 
Allen,  was  seven  feet  in  height. 

AiiMiit  of  BKomit  wuhingtoii* 
The  chief  exploit  of  the  visitor,  at  this 
group  of  the  White  Hills,  is  to  ascend 
Mount  Washington ;  and  a  toilsome, 
and  even  dangerous  feat  it  is  to  this 
day,  despite  the  improved  facilities  of 
travel.  The  journey  from  the  Craw- 
ford House  is  nine  miles,  made  on  the 
backs  of  Canadian  ponies,  over  the 
old  Crawford  bridle-paths,  though  a 
grand  carriage-way  is  now  projected, 
from  the  Glen  House  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  mountain.  (See  Glen  House.) 
The  excursion  occupies  a  long  day, 
with  the  utmost  industry.  We  made 
it,  on  one  occasion,  in  midsummer,  with 
a  party  of  thirty  ladies  and  gentlemen, 
besides  our  guides,  and  it  was  a  gay 
scene — ^the  getting  en  route,  and  a  sin- 
gular cavalcade ;  miles  onward  as  we 
wound,  in  Indian  file,  cautiously  along 
the  rugged,  narrow  path,  trusting  to 
our  trusty  ponies  to  walk  with  us  upon 
their  backs,  over  logs,  and  rocks,  and 
chasms,  which  we  would  not  have  dared 
to  leap  ourselves ;  and  surprising  was 
the  picture,  as  we,  at  length,  bivouacked 
and  ate  our  grateful  lunch  upon  the 
all-seeing  crest  of  the  grand  old  moun- 
tain. At  another  time,  we  ascended, 
in  the  middle  of  October,  when  we 
could  muster  no  larger  group  than  our 
friend,  ^ourself,  and  our  guide.  For 
two  miles  from  the  summit,  the  way 
was  blocked  with  snow ;  sp  we  left  our 
ponies  to  take  care  of  themselves,  and 
completed  the  tramp  on  foot.  Th« 
day,  though  so  bitterly  cold  as  to  re> 


BXW  HAMPSmSB. 


97 


On  IComit  Wftshington. 


mind  us  of  Webster's  salutation  upon 
a  like  occasion — *'■  Mount  Washington, 
I  have  come  a  very  long  distance,  aaTe 
toiled  hard  to  arrive  at  your  summit, 
and  now  you  give  me  but  a  cold  recep- 
tion "---was  hapfdly  a  brilliant  one ;  the 
atmosphere  was  exceedingly  clear :  and 
we  had  the  delight  of  seeitig  all  the  deli- 
cious panorama,  which  has  been  thus 
catalogued :— • 

Vi«w  from  the  Saminit.  "  In  the 
west,  through  the  blue  haze,  are  seen, 
in  the  distance,  the  ranges  of  the  Green 
Mountains ;  the  remar£ible  outlines  of 
the  summits  of  Camel's  Hump  and 
Mansfield  Mou9tun  being  easily  distiu' 
gnished  when  the  otmosphere  is  dear. 
To  the  north-west,  under  your  feet,  are 
the  clearings  and  settlement  of  Jeffer- 
son, and  the  waters  of  Gheny  Pond ; 
and,  further  distant,  the  village  of  Lan- 
caster, with  the  waters  of  Israel's  river. 
The  Connecticut  is  barely  visible ;  and 
often  its  appearance  for  miles  is  coun- 
terfeited by  the  fog  rising  from  its  sur- 
face. To  the  north  and  north-east, 
only  a  few  miles  distant,  rise  up  boldly 
the  great  north-eastern  peaks  of  the 
White  Mountain  range— Jefferson,  Ad- 


raggi 
tleft 


ams,  and  Madison — ^with  their 
tops  of  loose  dark  rocks.  A  little  fur- 
ther to  the  east  are  seen  the  numerous 
and  dist^t  summits  of  the  mountains 
of  Maine.  On  the  south-east,  close  at 
hand,  are  the  dark  and  crowded  ridges 
of  the  mountains  of  Jackson ;  and  be- 
yond, the  conical  summit  of  Eearsarge, 
stancUng  by  itself^  on  the  outskirts  of 
the  mountains ;  and,  further  over  the 
low  country  of  Maine,  5<)bago  Fond, 
near  Portland.  Still  further,  it  is  said, 
the  ocean  itself  has  sometimies  been 
diitinotly  visible. 

"The  White  Mountains  are  often 
seen  from  the  sea,  even  at  80  miles 
distance  from  the  shore  ;  and  nothing 
can  prevent  the  sea  from  being  seen 
from  the  mountains,  but  the  difficulty 
of  distinguishing  its  appearance  from 
that  of  the  sky  near  the  horizon. 

"  Further  to  the  south  are  the  inter- 
vals of  the  Saco,  and  the  settlements  of 
Bartlett  and  Conway,  the  slater  ponds 
of  Lovell,  in  Fryburg;  and,  still  fur- 
6 


ther,  the  remarkable  four-toothed 
summit  of  the  Chocorua,  the  peek  to 
the  right  being  much  the  largest,  and 
sharply  pyramidal  Almost  exactly 
south  are  the  shining  waters  of  the 
beautlM  Winnipiseogee,  seen  with 
the  greatest  disUnotness  in  a  favorable 
day.  To  the  south-west,  near  at 
hand,  are  the  peaks  of  the  south- 
western range  of  the  White  Mountains ; 
Monroe,  wiw  its  two  little  alpine  ponds 
sleeping  under  its  rocky  and  pointed 
summit;  the  flat  surface  of  Franklin, 
and  the  rounded  top  of  Pleasant,  with 
their  ridges  and  spurs.  Beyond  these, 
the  Willey  Mountidn,  with  its  high, 
ridged  summit;  and,  beyond  that, 
several  parallel  ranges  of  high-wooded 
mountains.  Further  west,  and  over  all, 
is  seen  the  high,  bare  summit  of  Mount 
Lafayette,  in  Franconia." 

TaokMrmanHi  Raviiw  is  a  marvel- 
lous place,  seen  in  the  ascent  of  the 
mountains,  by  the  Davis'  Road  fk-om 
the  Mount  Crawford  House.  It  lies 
upon  the  right  in  pascdng  over  the  high 
spur  directly  south-east  of  Mofiut  Wash- 
ington. Turning  aside,  the  edge  of  the 
precipice  is  reached,  and  may  be  de- 
scended by  a  rugged  pathway.  It  is 
a  long,  deep  glen,  with  frowning  walls, 
often  quite  inaccessible.  It  is  filled, 
hundreds  of  feet  deep,  by  the  winter 
snows,  through  which  a  brook  steals, 
as  summer  suns  draw  -near,  gradually 
widening  its  channel,  until  it  flows 
through  a  grand  snow  cave,  which  was 
found,  by  measurement,  to  be,  one  sea- 
son, 84  feet  wide  on  the  inside,  40  feet 
high,  and  180  feet  long.  The'  snow 
forming  the  arch  was  20  feet  thick  1 
The  engineers  of  the  projected  carriage 
road  went  through  this  arch  one  July, 
in  the  bed  of  the  stream,  to  the  foot  of 
the  cataract,  which  flows  for  1,000  feet, 
down  the  wild  mountain  side. 

Oakm'  Gulf  is  another  fathomless 
cavern,  seen,  far  down  on  the  right,  in 
winding  around  the  summit  of  Moimt 
Monroe.  Near  the  summit  of  Mount 
Washington,  a  few  rods  northward,  if 
yet  another  black  abyss,  which  is  called 
the  Great  Gulf.  Its  descent  here  is 
2,000  feet,  rugged  and  precipitous. 


08 


WBW  HAMPSHIBB. 


The  White  Moontaliu. 


TIm  Tip  Top  Boom.  The  building 
of  the  rude  inn,  which  now  stands  upon 
the  sununit  of  Mount  Washington, 
where  the  great  hotel  ia  to  be,  when 
the  grand  carriage  road  is  completed, 
was  a  daring  and  painAil  enterprise.  It 
is  said  the  bold  scheme  was  suggested 
by  Jos.  S.  HalL  for  many  years  a 
guide  from  the  Kotch  House.  *'The 
house  was  located,"  says  Mr.  Willey, 
"  under  the  lee  of  the  highest  rocks  on 
Mount  Washington,  and  was  laid  out 
forty  feet  long,  and  twenty-two  feet 
wide.  The  wiSls  were  four  feet  thick, 
laid  in  cement,  and  erery  stone  had 
to  be  raised  to  ita  place  by  muscular 
strength  alone. 

While  these  were  laying  the  walls, 
the  materials  for  flndshing  and  fltmish- 
ing  were  being  dragged  up  from  the 
Glen  House,  a  distance  of  pix  miles. 
Lime,  boards,  nails,  shingles,  timbers, 
furniture,  crockery,  bedding  and  stoves, 
all  had  to  be  brought  up  by  piecemeal 
on  the  men*s  or  horses'  backs.  No  one 
ever  went  up  without  taking  something 
—a  chur,  or  door,  or  piece  of  crockery. 
Four  boards  (about  sixty  feet)  could  be 
carried  up  at  once  on  a  horse's  back, 
and  but  one  iirip  could  be  made  daily. 
Mr.  Rosebrook,  a  j/oung  gianty  carried 
up  at  one  time  a  door  of  the  usual 
length,  three  feet  wide,  three  and  one- 
h^  inches  thick,  ten  pbunds  of  pork, 
and  one  gallon  Of  molasses. 

The  wuls  were  raised  eight  feet  high, 
and  to  these  the  roof  was  fastened  by 
strong  iron  bolts;  while  over  the  whole 
structure  were  passed  strong  cables, 
fastened  to  the  solid  mountdn  itself. 
The  inside  was  thrown,  primitive  fash- 
ion, into  one  room,  in  which  the  beds 
were  arranged,  berth-like,  for  the  most 
part  on  one  side  of  the  room,  in  two 
tiers,  with  curtdna  in  front.  A  table, 
capable  of  seating  thirty  or  forty  per- 
sons, ran  lengthwise  of  the  room.  At 
one  end  of  the  room  a  cooking-stove 
and  the  other  furniture  of  a  kitchen 
were  placed,  with  a  curtain  between  it 
and  the  table.  At  the  other  end  was  a 
small  stove,  in  wluch  was  burned  moun- 
tain moss.  The  walls  are  perfectly 
rough,  outside  and  in;  a  little  plaster 


upon  the  inside,  merely  fills  up  the 
chinks.  The  house  trembles  and  creaks 
in  the  gale,  but  stands  strong.  ^ 

Much  as  we  have  necessamy  left  un* 
seen,  on  the  mountains,  we  must  now 
descend,  and  wi'jh  a  hasty  peep  at  some 
yet  unmentionpd  scenes,  in  the  vicinage 
of  the  Notch,  pass  on,  thirtv-six  miles, 
to  the  Franconia  range,  in  tne  west. 

The  lUlver  OMoade  is  a  favorite 
scene,  about  half  a  mile  south  of  the 
entrance  to  the  Notch.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  charming  waterfalls  ima^nable, 
seen  at  a  distance  of  two  miles,  bubbling 
down  the  mountain  side,  eight  hundred 
feet  above  the  neighboring  valley. 

Thi  Flumk  is  another  cascade  yet 
further  down  the  Notch.  It  descends 
two  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  in  two  rills, 
over  two  precipices,  and  there  are  three 
streams  over  a  land  ledge,  reuniting  in 
a  small  rocky  basin  below. 

The  Detvilhi  Den  is  a  mysterious 
cavern,  near  the  top  of  Mount  Willard, 
opposite  the  Silver  and  the  Flume  cas- 
cades. 

The  Crystal  Falls,  of  eighty  feet, 
and  the  Qlen  Mlit  Falh,  of  seventy 
feet,  are  on  the  Ellis  River,  to  the  left 
of  the  road  from  Jackson  to  the  Glen 
House. 

The  Ammanoosuc  River,  rising  in 
this  group  of  the  White  Mountains,  and 
foUowed  in  the  journey  towards  the 
Franconia  Hills,  is  a  stream  of  wonder- 
ful beauty.  It  falls  6,000  feet  from  its 
source  on  the  mountain,  to  the  Con- 
necticut River,  and  is  said  to  be  the 
wildest  and  most  impetuous  river  in 
New  Hampshire.  It  abounds  in  rapids 
and  cascades. 

The  Willey  Bonse  is  passed  some 
miles  below,  at  the  commencement  of 
the  ascent  to  the  Notch.  The  spot  will 
be  for  ever  of  memorable  interest,  from 
its  tra^c  story  of  the  fearful  avalanches 
of  1826,  when  the  entire  family  which 
then  occupied  the  house-^Mr.  Willey, 
his  wife,  five  children  and  two  hired 
men  —  were  all  buried  beneath  the 
mighty  debria  of  the  mountain  elides.* 

*  A  oinjnmstMitlal  narrative  of  this  melan- 
choly event  may  be  found  In  the  Bev.  Mr. 


NSW  HAMPSBIBI. 

Th«  Whit*  MoaBteliif--Fnn««BU  lUnge. 


01 


The  ride  throuarh  the  hills  and  by  the 
waterfklls,  86  miles  firom  the  Mount 
Crawford  House  to  the  Profile  House, 
in  the  FMnconia  Pass,  might  detain  us 
pleasantly  enough  at  many  points,  but 
we  bear  our  traveller  on,  at  once,  to  the 
lastchapter  of  ourWhite  Mountain  story. 

Tha  Franooaia  HUlii  though  m 
popular  estimation  inferior  tti  interest 
to  the  eastern  cluster,  are  really  not  so ; 
except  it  be  in  the  wonders  of  the  moun- 
tain ascents ;  and  even  in  this,  the  pano- 
rama, from  the  summit  of  Lafayette,  is 
scarcely  less  extensive  or  less  impoi^g 
than  the  scene  from  the  crown  of  Mount 
Washington,  while  the  exqdurite  little 
lakes,  and  the  singular  natural  eecen- 
tricities  in  the  Franconia  grc^j,  have 
no  counterpart  in  tiie  other.  In  this, 
as  in  other  ranges  of  the  White  Hills, 
the  mountains  are  densely  wooded  at 
their  base,  while  their  rook-ribbed  sum- 
mits are  barren,  and  scMred  by  time 
and  tempest.  The  bills  approach,  at 
one  point,  to  within  half  a  mue  of  each 
other,  and  form  the  wild  procrustean 
portal,  called  the  Notch. 

Moont  Lafaywtto,  o>'  the  Great 
Haystack,  is  the  monarch  cf  the  Fran* 
conia  kingdom,  towering  up,  skyward, 
to  the  height  of  S,200feet.  Its  l(rfly 
pyramidal  peaks  are  the  chief  objects, 
in  all  views,  for  many  miles  around. 

Bag]*  Oliff  is  a  magnificently  bold 
and  rocky  promontory,  near  Mount  La- 
fayette. It  casts  its  dark  shadows  down 
many  hundred  feet  into  the  glen,  trav- 
ersed by  the  road  beneath. 

Oaanon  Bloontaiii,  2,000  feet  above 
the  road  and  4,000  above  the  sea,  is 
nearly  opposite  Lafayette,  and  forms 
the  western  side  of  the  Notch.  Away 
up  upon  its  crQwn  is  a  group  of  mighty 
rocks,  which,  as  seen  from  the  Profile 
House  below,  bear  an  exact  resonbluice 
to  a  mounted  cannon.  It  is  upon  this 
mountain,  also,  that  we  find  tlwt  mar- 
vellous freak  of  nature, 

WUler's  "IncidentB  of  White  Moimt«lii  His- 
tory,"—-which  we  hare  already  quoted  and 
oftener  referred  to,  in  Terifloation  of  our  own 
memories  and  notes  of  those  mountains.  The 
anfortunate  fiunily  were  near  relatiTOS  of  Mr. 
WiUey.  and  he  lived  in  the  vicinity  at  the 
time  or  the  disaster. 


Tba  Flrofila  Rook^  or  Tha  Old 
Muk  of  tha  Monntato^— This  wondier- 
M  eooentrioity,  so  admirably  counter- 
feiting a  human  face,  is  80  feet  long, 
from  the  chin  to  the  top  of  the  fore- 
head, and  is  1,200  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  road,  being  yet  fkr  below  the 
summit  of  the  mountdn.  This  strange 
apparition  is  ftrmed  of  three  distinct 
masses  of  rook,,  one  making  the  fore- 
head, another  Uie  nose  and  upper  lip, 
and  a  third  the  chin.  The  rocks  are 
broiwht  into  the  proper  reUtion  to  form 
the  fVofile,  at  one  point  only,  upon  the 
road,  t|||»ugh  the  Notch,  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  south  of  the  Profile  House.  The 
face  is  boldly  and  clearly  relieved 
against  the  sky,  and,  except  in  a  litUe 
sentiment  of  weakness  about  ilihe  mpnth, 
has  the  air  of  a  stem,  strong  character, 
well  able  to  bear,  as  he  has  done  un- 
flinchingly, for  centuries,  the  scorching 
suns  of  summer  and  Hxe.  tempest  blasts 
of  winter.  Passing  down  tne  road  a 
little  way,  the  ''Old  Man"  is  trans- 
formed into  a  "toothless  old  woman 
in  a  mob  cap ; "  and,  soon  after,  melts 
into  thin  air,  and  ie  seen  no  more. 
Hawthorne  has  found  in  this  scene  the 
theme  of  one  of  the  pleasantest  of  his 
"Twice  Told  Tales,"  that  callisd  the 
*«  Old  Stone  Face." 

Tho  Profila  Lak*  is  a  beautifrd  little , 
pond,  lyiuR  at  the  base  of  the  mountain, 
and  immediately  under  the  ever-watch- 
fid  eye  of  the  stem  "  Old  Man."  This 
lakelet  is  sometimes  called  the  "Old 
Man's  Wash-bowl,"  .  It  is  a«quarter  of  a 
mile  long  and  about  half  as  wide. 

Bobo  Laka^  one  of  the  greatest 
charms  of  this  part  of  the  White 
Mt.  re^on,  is  a  diminutive  but  very 
deep  and  beautiAil  pond,  north  of  the 
Oannon  Mountain.  It  is  entirely  en- 
closed by  high  mountains.  From  the 
centre  of  this  fairy  water,  a  voice,  in 
ordinary  tone,  will  be  echoed  distinctly 
several  times,  and  the  report  of  a  gun 
breaks  upon  the  rocks  like  the  roar  of 
airtillery.  The  Indian  superstition  was, 
that  these  echoes  were  the  voice  of  the 
Great  Sidrit,  speaking  in  gentleness  or 
in  anger. 

Tho    Baaiii,    another    remaritable 


100 


VKW  HAiCPBHnUL 


Th«  White  Monntaliuk 


Profile  Lake,  White  MonntalaaL 


iteene  of  tUs  neighboriiood,  b  five  miles 
wuth  of  the  Notch.  It  Ues  near  the 
road  ride,  where  the  Pemigewasset 
has  worn  deep  and  carious  cavities  in 
the  solid  rooks.  The  Basin  is  46  feet 
in  diameter,  and  28  feet  from  the  edge 
to  the  bottom  of  the  water.  It  is  near- 
ly circular,  and  has  been  gradually 
made  by  the  whirling  of  rocks  round 
and  round  in  the  strong  current.  The 
water,  as  it  comfis  from  the  Basin,  faUs 
into  moat  charming  cascades.  At  the 
outlet,  the  lower  edge  of  the  rocks  has 
been  worn  into  a  very  remarkable  like- 
ness of  the  human  leg  and  foot. 

The  FlnnM^  the  last  and  most 
famous,  perhaps,  of  all  the  Franconia 
wonders,  is  quickly  and  easUy  reached 
from  the  Flume  House.  Leaving  the 
road,  just  below  the  Barin,  we  turn  to 
the  left  among  the  hills,  and  after  a 
tramp  of  a  mile,  reach  a  bare  granite 
ledge  a  hundred  feet  high  und  about 
thirty  feet  wide,  over  which  a  small 
stream  makes  its  varied  way.  Near  the 
top  of  this  ledge  we  approach  the  ravine 
known  as  the  Flume.  The  rocky  walls 
htre  are  fifty  feet  in  height,  and  not 


more  than  twenty  feet  apart.  Througit 
this  grand  fissure  comes  the  little  brook 
which  we  have  just  seen.  Except  in 
seasons  of  freshets,  the  bed  of  the  stream 
is  narrow  enough  to  give  the  visitor  dry 
passage  up  the  curious  glen,  which  ex- 
tends several  hundred  feet,  the  walla 
approaching,  near  the  upper  extremity, 
to  within  ten  or.  eleven  feet  of  each 
other. 

About  midway,  a  tremendous  boulder, 
several  tons  in  weight,  hangs  suspend- 
ed between  the  clifb,  where  it  has  been 
caught  in  its  descent  from  the  moun- 
tain above.  A  dangerous  bridge  for  a 
timid  step  has  been  sprung  across  the 
ravine,  near  the  top,  by  the  faUing  of  a 
forest  tree. 

The  Pool,  a  supplemental  or  tail 
piece  to  the  great  picture  of  the  Flume, 
18  a  deep  natural  well  in  the  solid  rock. 
The  diameter  of  the  Pool  is  about  sixty 
feet;  the  depth  to  the  sur&ce  of  the 
water  is  160  feet,  and  the  water  itself 
extends  40  feet  yet  below.  Some  years, 
ago,  a  poor  fellow  was  unlucky  enough 
to  fall  into  this  plutonian  etd  de  sae,  but 
he  clung  to  a  crag  jtvt  above  the  water 


TXBMOin*. 


101 


Tallaj  of  the  WinoMkL 


until  ropes  were  lowered,  «nd  he  was, 
wonderful  to  relate,  fished  up,  though 
bruieed  and  not  a  little  aoared,  yet 
aUrel 

We  hare  now  peeped  haatily  at  the 
leading  points  of  interest  in  the  grand 
Granite  Hills;  but  the  enterprising 
tourist,  of  an  inquhring  turn  of  mind. 


may,  rery  easily,  discover  for  himself  a 
thousand  other  marrels  and  deligliAs; 
or,  if  he  cares  not  to  explore  new  scenes 
for  himself  he  may  bend  his  way  north* 
ward,  Tia  Littleton,  and  between  Cole* 
brook  and  Enrol,  penetrate  the  well* 
known,  but  as  yet  very  little  Tisited 
slate-stone  gorge,  callea  the  DlxTiUe 
Notoh. 


or  tail 
Flume, 

rock, 
ut  sixty 
of  the 

itaelf 
,e  years 
enough 
800,  but 

water 


r 


VERMONT. 

Thb  thousand  points  of  interest  in  the  Qreen  fflUs  of  Termont  hare  not  yet 
received  their  due  meed  of  favor  from  tourists,  but  their  tHaima  to  especial 
homage  are  now  being  ftilly  admitted.  The  mountain  chain  extends  from  near 
New  Haven,  in  Connecticut,  northward  through  Massachusetts  <ind  Yermont, 
into  Canada ;  though,  properly  speaking.  It  Hem  m  Vermont  Alone,  where  are  the 
chief  summits  of  Mansfield,  Camel's  Hump,  Connell's  Peak,  Shrewsbury  Moun* 
tain,  South  Pedt,  KUUngton  Peak,  Ascutney  (on  the  Connectiettt),  apd  others. 
After  the  White  Mountains  of  New  Hampshire,  the  Oreen  Hills  rank  with  the 
nobleM  groups  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains— with  the  Blue  ]Ud|p  In  North 
Carolina,  Georria,  and  Yirsinia,  the  Alleghanies  in  Pennsylvania,  and  the  Oats* 
kill  and  the  A^wrondacks,  New  York. 


I%e  Vermont  Central  SaUway  from 
Burlineton,  on  Lake  Champlain,  west- 
ward via  Hontpelier,  the  capital  of  Yer- 
mont, to  the  shores  of  the  Connecticut 
River,  tn^lerses  the  valley  of  the  Wi- 
nooski,  by  the  banks  of  the  Winooski 
River,  and  gives  easy  access  to  Mount 
Camel's  Hump  and  Mount  Mansfield. 

The  Valley  and  River  of  Winooi. 
kL — ^The  Wmooski  traverses  almost 
the  entire  breadth  of  northern  Yen- 
mont.  Rising  in  Caledonia,  its  course 
is  i^enerally  westward  to  Lake  Gham- 
plun,  40  miles  from  which  it  pAsses 
through  Montpelier,  the  capital  of  Yer- 
mont. The  Vermont  Central  Ridlway 
from  Burlington  to  the  Connecticut 
runs  through  the  valley,*  and  very 
closely  follows  the  banks  of  the  river  as 
far  eastward  as  Montpelier.  Some  of  its 
valley  passages  are  scenes  of  great  pas- 
toral beauty,  strongly  contrasted  with 
high  mountun  surroundings,  the  singu- 
larly-formed peak  of  Camel's  Hump 
continually  re-occurring,  sometimes 
barely  peeping  over  intervening  ranges, 


and  agdn— as  near  the  middle  of 
the  vauey  stretch— coming  into  full 
^play.  In  places,  the  Winooski  is  a 
wild  turbulent  water,  dashing  over  stem 
precipices  and  through  rugged  defiles. 
It  is.  found  in  this  rough  mood<  just 
above  the  village  of  Winooski,  a  few 
miles  from  Burlington,  where  the  waters 
rush  in  rapid  and  cascade  through  a 
ravine  a  hundred  feet.  This  pitfture  is 
well  seen  from  the  rulway.  Pas^ng 
on  into  the  open  valley  lands,  which 
succeed.  Mount  Camel's  Hump  comes 
finely  into  liew,  as  the  central  and 
crowning  point  of  one  of  the  sweetest 
pictures  of  all  this  region.  Continuing 
always  through  scenes  of  great  pic- 
turesque interest,  the  tourist  comes  to 
the  village  of  Richmond,  18  miles  from 
Burlington,  and  three  miles,  yet  beyond, 
to  Jonesville,  ^  little  scattered  village 
of  fine  farms,  lying  upon  both  sides  of 
the  river.  The  inn  here  was  a  famous 
halfway-house  in  the  journey  between 
Burlington  and  Montpelier,  before  the 
railway  was  built,  and  it  is  still  a  pic-nic 


103 


TiBMOirr. 


YalUjr  of  tk*  WtnoMki 


Palls  on  the  IHnooaU  BiTer,  Ymrmont 


and  excursion  resort  for  all  the  region. 
It  is  an  excellent  and  very  InexpensiTe 
place  for  a  littie  quiet  tarry.  Mount 
Camel's  Hump  is  accessible  from  this 
vicinity,  and  a  stage  runs  from  the 
hotel,  some  nine  orten  mfles,  to  Under- 
hill  Centre,  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Mans- 
field.  On  the  south  side  of  the  Wi- 
nooski,  at  Jonesville,  the  Huntiqgton 
River  comes  in,  after  an  exceedingly 
wild  journey  for  the  last  two  or  three 
miles  of  its  course,  through  fine  rocky 
ravines,  which  it  traverses  with  many 
bold  foaming  leaps.  About  three  miles 
yet  east  of  Jonesville,  near  Bolton, 


there  is  the  most  striking  picture  in  all 
the  Winooski  gaHery.  ft  is  beautifully 
seen  from  the  cars  on  the  left,  but  yet 
very  inadequately.  From  the  bottom 
of  the  glen  through  which  the  madden- 
ed waters  here  make  their  way,  the 
huge  cliffscon  either  hand,  the  torrent 
foaming  at  their  feet,  and  the  gentle  bit 
of  verdant  interval,  with  the  tall  crest 
of  Camel's  Hump,  seen  beyond,  within 
the  frame  of  the  opposing  precipices, 
make  altogether  a  scene  well  worth  the 
looking  for.  The  pictorial  interest  of 
this  vdley  transit  is  admirably  sustain- 
ed at  all  points,  as  far  as  we  yet  follow 


TSRHOKT. 


108 


OunoVs  Uump— Mount  Muiifleld— Montp«lior. 


it  onward,  through  Watorbury  and 
lllddleacx,  to  Moutpolier,  where  ■onio 
of  the  beHt  scenes  the  traveller  will  find, 
when  he  looks  abroad  from  the  hlU-topB 
there,  have  been  kept  to  the  last. 

Mount  OauMl'a  Bnmp,  tlie  most 
salient  feature  in  the  Winoonki  land- 
Hciipo,  is  the  hiffhest  of  all  the  Qroen 
Mountain  peaks,  naving  an  elevation  of 
4,188  feet.  It  may  be  ascended,  with- 
out 'much  difficulty,  from  any  side, 
though  the  usual  point  of  access  is  at 
Duxbury,  Arom  whence  carriages  can 
pass  to  within  three  miles  of  tne  sum- 
mit. The  mountain  is  crowned  by 
jagged,  barren  rooks,  and  the  imposing 
scene  which  the  lofty  heights  overlook 
is  in  no  way  obstructed  by  tho  forest 
veil,  which  often  disappoints  the  hopeful 
climber  of  forbidding  mountain  tops. 

Mansfield  Mountain,  the  sceond  in 
dignity  of  the  Oreen  Hills,  is  very  ac- 
cesHible  from  the  village  of  Underhill 
Centre  on  the  north,  or  yet  more  easilv 
from  Stow  on  the  south,  both  of  which 
points  may  be  reached  from  the  Ver- 
mont Central  road — Underhill^  (torn 
Joncsville  station,  and  Stow  from 
Watcrbury.  The  views  of  the  mountain 
itself,  its  cliff's  and  peaks,  are  very 
grand  from  many  points  in  the  path  up- 
wards,  and  the  panorama  unfolded  upon 
the  summit  is,  if  possible,  finer  than 
that  from  the  Camel's  Hump.    Lake 


Champlain  and  the  Adirondack  peaks 
lie  to  tho  westward,  while  the  Whjto 
Mountains  of  Now  Hampshire  malce 
yet  new  pictures  on  the  east;  and, 
again,  the  many  crests  of  the  Groon 
Hills,  with  their  intervening  vales 
and  lakes  and  villages,  stretch  out 
towards  the  south. 

Montp«Il«r  on  the  east,  and  Bur- 
lington on  the  west,  »re  the  two  ex- 
tremities of  the  Winooski  section  of  the 
Oreen  Mountain  scenery.  Burlington 
is  upon  the  Lake  Champlain  shore,  and 
is  the  largest  town  in  Vermont.  We 
have  already  mentioned  it  In  our  tour 
from  New  York  to  Canada.  Montpclier 
is  the  State  capital.  It  ba»  a  popula- 
tion of  between  two  and  three  thou- 
sand ;  is  a  Tery  pretty  town,  and  with 
the  charm  of  most  beautifVil  natural 
surroundings,  and  the  comforts  of  an 
excellent  hotel,  it  is  perfectly  eligible 
as  a  summer  reddence.  Tho  Winooski 
river  passes  here.  A  little  branch  rail- 
way, of  a  mile  or  so,  connects  Mont- 
pelier  with  the  Central  road.  The 
State  House,  which  was  destroyed  by 
fire  January  6th,  180*7,  was  an  imposing 

f;ranite  edifice,  in  the  form  of  a  cross, 
t  was  160  feet  in  length,  and  100  deep. 
It  had  a  fine  portico  of  six  columns, 
each  six  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base, 
and  86  feet  high.  The  apex  of  the 
dome  which  crowned  the  structure  was 


Burlington,  Yermont 


104 


VXBMONT. 


B«twMa  BatUnd  «nd  BtuUngtoii . 


100  feet  from  the  ground.  Among  the 
objects  of  interest  in  this  edi^ce  were 
two  pieces  of  cannon  •taken  from  the 
Hessuns  at  the  battle  of  Bennington. 

JRutland  to  Bwlington. 

Bntland  is  near  the  western  borders 
of  Vermont,  south  of  the  centre  of  the 
State,  and  nearly  east  of  Whitehall,  at 
the  lower  extremity  of  Lake  Champlain. 
It  is  a  centre  of  railway  lines  for  all 
points  of  the  compass.  The  Troy, 
Whitehall,  and  Gastleton  B.  R.,  96 
miles,  unites  Rutland  with  Troy  and 
Albany,  via  Whitehall  and  Saratoga 
Springs.  It  is  also  connected,  again,' 
with  Troy  and  Albany,  by  the  Albany, 
Vermont,  and  Oanada  Une  ^formerly' 
Albany  Northern)  to  Eagles  Bridge,  and 
thence  by  the  Rutland  and  Washbi^n 
road,  96  miles,  as  via  Whitehul  and 
Saratoga;  and  yet  again,  via  Korth 
Bennington,  by  the  Troy  and  Boston 
and  Western  Vermont  roads,  84  miles. 
The  famous  Hoosiok  tunnel  is  near  the 
line  of  this  route.  Northward,  it  is 
connected  with  Burlington,  and  all 
the  routes  which  intersect  at  that 
point,  by  the  Rutland  and  Burlington 
R.  R.,  60  miles,  and  eastward  with  Bel- 
lows' Falls,  on  the  Oonnecticut,  by  an- 
other division  of  the  same  lineC  Rut- 
land is  a  pleasant  town,  with  a  popui&- 
tion  of  about  4,000,  situated  in  the 
midst  of  some  of  the  finest  of  the  Ver- 
mont hill  and  valley  scenery,  at  tlie  foot 
of  the  western  slope  of  the  mountains. 
Otter  Greek,  a  most  picturesque  stream 
in  all  its  course,  passes  by  the  village, 
and  Eillington  Peak  is  admirably  seen 
as  the  lea^g  feature  in  the  landscape 
around. 

The  Olareudon  Sporfngi,  a  fiivorite 
place  of  resort,  is  a  few  i^es  south  of 
Rutland,  on  the  line  of  the  Western 
Vermont  road.  The  medical  virtues  of 
thesp  waters,  the  varied  and  beautiful 
scenery,  the  pleasant  drives  around,  and 
the  excellent  hotel  accommodations, 
make  this  watering-place  a  very  desira- 
ble summer  halt. 

The  Otter  Greek  Falls,  at  Ver- 
gennes,  are  upon  the  Otter  Creek,  about 
seven    miles   from   Lake   Champlain. 


The  brook  is  600  feet  in  width,  divided 
by  a  fine  island,  on  either  side  of  which 
the  Fall  leaps  bravely  some  80  or  40 
feet.  There  are  many  other  beautlM 
cascades  in  the  Otter  Creek.  Some  at 
Middlebury,  above  Rutland ;  and  a  few 
miles  below  Middlebury,  still  others  of 
yetgreater  interest. 

Tb»  Blgiii  Spring  is  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  Otier  Creek  cascades. 

SiUington  pMk,  rising  grandly  on 
the  east  of  Rutland,  is  the  third  in  rank 
of  the  mountains  of  Vermont.  A  visit 
to  this  peak  makes  a  pleasant  excursion 
from  the  neighborhood.  To  the  foot 
of  the  mountain  the  distance  is  seven 
miles,  and  two  miles  more  to  the  sum- 
mit. On  the  north  side  is  a  perpendicu- 
lar ledge  of  200  feet,  called  Capitol 
Rock.  Mount  Ira,  too,  is  hereabouts, 
and  beyond  Eillington  Peak,  as  seen 
from  Rutland,  and  northward  is  Mount 
Pico  and  Castleton  Ridge,  shutting  out 
the  view  of  Lake  Champlain. 

Zrfike  Dnmnore  is  a  delicious  water, 
80  miles  above  Rutland.  It  is  on  the 
railway  to  Burlington,  a  few  miles  (by 
stage)  from  Middlebury.  Dunmore  is  a 
wonderfully  i^cturesque  lake,  surround- 
ed at  most  points  by  bold  hills,  seeii 
here  in  verdant  slopes,  and  there  in 
rooky  bluff  and  cli£  The  lake  is  about 
five  miles  in  length  and  three  in 
breadth.  A  good  summer  hotel  is  upon 
its  banks. 

Iiake  Oaatleloii,  in  this  neighbor- 
hood, is  also  a  most  interesting  scene. 

Eastward  from  Rutland,  the  route 
lira  amidst  the  beauties  of  the  Queechy 
Valley,  replete  with  delightM  pictures 
of  running  and  falling  waters,  and  of 
grassv  meadows  and  wooded  hills. 

BBiMlebnry  is  upon  the  railway  to 
Burlington,  80  miles  from  Rutland.  It 
is  upon  the  Otter  Creek,  near  some  fine 
falls  on  that  stream,  and  is  also  a  few 
miles  only  from  Lake  Dunmore.  It  has  a 
population  (Uie  township)  of  some  4,000, 
and,  like  nearly  all  the  villages  in  Ver^ 
mont,  is  a  very  beautiful  place,  sur- 
rounded at  all  points  by  most  attractive 
mountain  scenery.  It  is  distinguished 
as  one  of  the  first  manufacturing  towns 
in  the  State,  and  also  as  the  seat  of 


ZraiW  TOBK. 


106 


Tour  Mid  BeeoM  In  Tennoat— -New  T  ork. 


Middlebury  Collegt.  This  iiustitntion 
was  founded  in  1800.  Its  chief  edifice 
is  100  fbet  long  and  four  stories  high, 
built  nf  stone. 

Bnadom,  on  the  route  of  the  Rutland 
railroad,  is  a  flourishing  town,  finely 
watered  by  Otter  Creek,  HIU  I&ver,  and 
Spring  Fond,  on  which  streams  are  good 
n^-seats.  Minerals  of  fine  quality  are 
found  in  this  town.  There  are  here  two 
curious  caverns  formed  of  limestone, 
the  largest  containing  two  apartments, 
each  from  16  to  20  net  square.  It  is 
entered  by  descending  from  the  surface 
about  20  feet. 

BaDntDgton  is  at  the  meeting  of  the 
Troy  and  Boston  and  the  Western  Ver- 
mont railways,  in  the  extreme  south- 
west comer  of  the  State.  It  is  famous 
as  the  scene  of  the  battle  of  Bennington 
(August  16,  1777),  in  which  a  detach- 
ment of  the  enemy's  forces,  under  Gren. 
Burgoyne,  was  terribly  beaten  by  the 
Oreen  Mountain  Boys,  led  by  the  intre- 
I^d  M(\jor  Staric.  It  was  upon  the  occa- 
sion of  this  memorable  engagement  that 
Stark  is  reported  to  have  made  the 
famous  address  to  his  troops:  "See 
there,  men  I  there  are  the  red  coats! 
Before  to-night  they  are  ours,  or  Molly 
Stark  will  be  a  widow  I "    Two  pieces 


of  artillery,  taken  in  the  battle  of  Benj-, 
nington,  were,  until  recently,  preserved' 
in  the  Capitol  at  Montpelier.  Th« 
manufiustones  of  the  United  States  Pot* 
tery  Company  at  Bennington  are  well 
deserving  of  a  virit.  line  porcelain  and 
Parian  ware  are  made  here,  the  vici- 
nage yielding  the  secessary  materials  in 
abundant  and  excellent  supfdy.  The 
landscape  about  Bennington  is  not  of 
especial  attraction. 

vraioaghby  Lain  is  a  popular  re- 
sort ia  (Means  County,  Termont,  lying 
upon  the  Canada  Hue.  This  lake  is  a 
beantiftd  water,  nearly  five  miles  long. 
It  lies  upon  the  great  ndlway  route 
from  Boston,  via  St.  Johnsbnry,  to 
Canada,  leaving  the  Connecticut  Yidley 
route  at  Wells  River. 

Zislw  mMnphmnagog  is  80  miles 
long,  and  from  one  to  four  in  breadth. 
About  eight  miles  only  of  its  waters  are 
in  Vermont,  the  rest  lying  in  Canada. 
It  empties  into  the  St.  Francis  River,  a 
tributary  of  the  St.  John's,  in  New 
Brunswick. 

For  Mount  Ascntney,  Windsor,  Bel- 
lows' Falls,  Brattleboro',  and  other 
scenes  and  places  in  Vermont,  on  and 
near  the  Connecticut  River,  see  route 
through  that  re^on. 


NEW  YOEK 

New  Tork  is  very  appositely  called  the  Emiure  State ;  being  the  first  in  the 
confederacy  in  population,  first  in  wealth,  and  in  commerciu  importance ;  ex- 
ceeded by  none  in  soil  and  climate,  unsurpassed  in  the  variety  and  beauty  of 
her  natural  scenery,  and  in  her  historical  associations. 

The  earUtibi.  settlements  here,  were  made  by  the  Dutch,  at  Fort  Orange,  now 
called  Albany,  and  at  New  Amsterdam,  now  New  Tork  City.  This  was  in  1614, 
seven  years  after  the  voyage  of  Hendriok  Hudson  up  the  waters  of  that  river 
which  now  bears  his  name. 

In  1664,  the  colony  fell  into  the  possession  of  the  English — ^was  recaptured  by 
the  Dutch  in  1678,  and  finally  came  again  under  British  rule  in  1674 — and  so 
continued  until  the  period  of  the  Revolution.  Many  stirring  events  transpired 
within  this  territory  during  the  wars  between  France  and  England,  in  1690, 1702, 
and  1744,  and  through  all  the  years  of  the  War  of  Independence.  Of  these 
events  the  traveller  will  find  some  chronicle  as  we  j»ioh  the  various  locations 
where  they  transpired,  hereafter,  in  the  course  of  4m  proposed  travels : — 

Every  variety  of  surface  and  every  character  of  j^ysical  aspect  is  found  with- 
in the  great  area  of  New  Tork ;  vast  fertile  plains  and  grand  mountain  ranges ; 
meadows  of  richest  verdure,  and  wild  forest  tracts;  Ues  innumerable  ana  of 

5* 


•^':fM^ 


''■C': 


109. 


SKYf  TOBK. 


Bailwajr  Boatea. 


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infinite  variety  in  size  and  beauty ;  waterfalls  unequalled  inlfhe  world  in  extent 
imd  grandeur;  and  river^  matchless  in  picturesque  charms.  We  need  not  non; 
catalogue  these  wonders,  as  our  rambles  will  afford  us,  by  and  ,by,  abundant 
opportunity  to  see  them  all  in  turn  and  time — ^the  peaks  and  gorges  of  the 
Adirondacks  and  the  Catskilla— the  floods  of  Niagara  and  the  ravines  of  Tren- 
ton ;  the  pure  waters  of  Lake  George,  the  mountain  shores  of  Champlain,  the 
deer-fiUed  wildernesses  and  the  Highland  passes  of  the  Hudson,  and  all  the  in- 
tricate  reticulation  oftcities,  towns,  villages,  villas,  and  watering-places. 


BAILWATS  JN  NEW  TOBK. 

See  index  for  description  of  the  routes. 

The  New  Torlc  and  Erie,  469  miles 
through  the  State,  from  the  city  of 
New  York  to  Dunkirk,  or  422  to  Buf- 
falo (  Branch  )  on  Lake  Erie.  A  route 
to  the  far  West. 

The  Hudson  River  Rtdiway,  146>  miles 
to  Albany,  or  162  to  Troy,  along  the 
banks  of  the  Hudson  River,  firom  New 
York  city. 

The  Harlem  Railway,  168  miles  from 
New  York  to  Albany. 

New  York  Central,  from  Albany  to 
Buffalo,  398  miles,  or  to  Niagara  Falls, 
827  miles  —  unites  eastward  with  the 
Western  Railway  from  Boston,  and  with 
the  Hudson  River  and  Harlem  roads 
from  New  York  and  at  the  western  ex- 
tremity, with  routes  for  the  Mississipiu 
regions.     ' 

Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  and  Sara- 
toga and  Whitehall.  From  Troy  to 
Saratoga  Springs,  82  miles ;  to  White- 
ball,  72  miles. 

Troy  and  Boston,  and  Albany  and 
Rutland  railways. 

Montreal  and  New  York,  and  Flatts- 
burg  and  Montreal  railways,  62  miles 
from  Plattsburg,  on  Lake  Champhuu  to 
Montreal,  Canada. 

Northern  (  Ogdensburg )  Rulway, 
across  the  northern  part  of  the  State, 
118  miles,  firom  Rouse's  Point,  on  Lake 
Champlain,  to  Ogdensburg  on  the  St. 
Lawrence. 

Black  River  and  Utica,  109  miles 
from  Utica,  on  the  New  York  Central 
Road  to  Clayton,  St.  Lawrence,  near 
Lake  Ontario.  * 

Watertown  and  Rome ;  97  miles  from 
Rome  on  the  New  York  Central,  to  Cape 
Vincent,  on  Lake  Ontario. 


Potsdam  and  Watertown,  from  Wa- 
tertown junction  (Watertown  and  Pots- 
dam Road )  to  Potsdam,  on  the  North- 
em  (Ogdensburg )  lUdlway. 

Newburgh  Branch  of  New  York  and 
Erie  Railway ;  from  Newburgh  on  the 
Hudson,  to  Chester,  New  York  and 
Erie  Railway. 

Oswego  and  Syracuse ;  86  miles  firom 
Syracuse,  New  York  Central  Road,  to 
Oswego,  Lake  Ontario. 

Syracuse  and  Southern ;  80  miles  from 
Binghampton  (Erie  Railway)  to  Syracuse 
(New  York  Central  Railway). 

Oswego  (New  York  and  Erie  Rail- 
way), 86  miles  to  Ithaca,  on  Cayuga 
Lake. 

Elmira,  Canandaigua  and  Niamra 
Falls;  168  miles  from  Ehnira  (Erie 
Railway),  to  Suspension  Bridge,  Ni- 
agara. 

Buffalo,  Coming  and  New  York ;  from 
Coming  (Erie  Rulway),  100  nules  to 
Batavia,  or  94  miles  to  Rochester  (New 
York  Central  Road ). 

Williamsport  and  FliJiiira;  78  miles 
from  Ehnira  (Erie  Railway  )— south  to 
Williamsport,  Pa. 

Cormng  and  Blossburg  and  Tioga; 
41  miles  from  Corning  ( Erie  Railway ) 
to  Blotnburg,  Pa. 

Lake  Shore  Railway,  from  Buffalo, 
via  Dunkirk,  by  the  shore  of  Lake  Erie, 
to  Cleveland,  Ohio,  and  westward. . 

Hudson  and  Boston;  from  Hudson, 
on  the  Hudson  River,  eastward,  to  West 
Stockbridge,  84  miles. 

Western  Ridlway ;  from  Albany,  200 
miles,  to  Boston. 

New  York  and  New  Haven ;  76  miles 
from  New  York  to  New  Haven,  Ct., 
thence  to  Boston,  etc. 

Lone  Ishmd  l^ilway ;  96  miles  from 
New  York  (Brooklyn  Ferry),  through 


3-'.;', 


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orid  in  extent 
need  not  novi; 
by,  abundant 
;orge8  of  the 
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wn,  from  Wa- 
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on  the  North- 
Sew  York  and 
rburgh  on  the 
)w  York  and 

85  miles  from 
itral  Road,  to 

;  80  miles  from 

ly)  to  Syracuse 

ay). 

nd  Erie  Rul- 

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and  Niarara 
Elmira  (Erie 
L  Bridge,  Ni- 

swYork;  from 

100  miles  to 

Kshester  (New 

ira;  78  miles 
ay  ) — south  to 

g  and  Tioga; 
Erie  Railway  ) 

from  Buffalo, 
)  of  Lake  Erie, 
restward.. 
from  Hudson, 
;ward,  to  West 

n  Albany,  200 

iTen;  76  miles 
v  Haven,  Gt., 

96  miles  from 
trry  ),  through 


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107 


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im»i 


Hew  York  dty— Ito  P«t  and  Prcaoit 


the  entire  length  of  Long  Island,  to 
Greenport. 


THE  CTTT  OF  NBW  TOBK. 

Supposing  our  traveller  to  be  at 
home  in  New  York,  or  a  stranger  al- 
readly  comfortably  lodged  at  his  hotel, 
we  will  (leaving  it  to  a  later  moment  to 
see  whether  or  not  he  has  got  into  the 
right  place),  gossip,  for  a  brief  while, 
touching  tne  past  of  the  scenes,  of 
which  we  propose  to  show  him  the 
present. 

The  rapi<|tgrowth  of  this  great  city — 
so  little  time  gone  by  a  wild,  forest  set- 
tlement, and  now  magnificent  in  its  mil- 
lion people — is  evidence  enough  of  the 
mind  and  will  of  the  race,  which  is  now 
every  where  malcing  the  once  wilderness 
of  the  west  to  blossom  as  the  rose. 
Though  settled  by  the  Dutch  as  early 
as  1612,  the  metropolitan  character  of 
New  Yoric  scarcely  dates  back  to  the 
beginning  of  the  present  century :  for 
it  is  within  the  past  50  years,  or  less,  that 
all  its  present  mimicipal  glories  and  fame 
have  grown  up.  Not  so  long,  indeed, 
for  the  city  which  now  covers  nearly 
the  whole  Island  of  Manhattan,  and  ia 
running  over  every  oay  into  other 
cities,  villages,  and  suburbs,  wherever 
it  can  find  vent,  was,  within  a  shorter 
period,  composed  in  the  small  trian- 
gular area,  of  which  the  Battery  is  the 
apex,  and  Canal  street  the  base.  The 
City  Hall  was  then  btiilt  with  less  care, 
on  the  upper  or  north  side,  because 
that,  at  the  time,  overlooked,  and  was 
seen  only  from  lanes  and  fields.  To  go 
above  or  even  to  Canal  street,  (then, 
literally,  a  canal),  was  a  rural  excur- 
sion ;  whUe,  to  go  below  it,  at  this  day, 
is  to  exceed  the  general  down-town 
travel,  on  any  but  business  errands. 
Of  the  palatial  private  houses,  the  pub- 
lic structures,  the  magnificent  churches, 
the  parks,  and  even  the  streets,  in  all 
the  middle  and  upper  parts  of  the  City, 
no  mention  would  have  been  made  in 
an  edition  of  this  work  twenty-five 
years  ago;  which  leads  us  to  ask, 
what  story  it  may  be  necessary  to  tell, 
in  the  revised  edition  of  a  quarter  of  a 


century  hence  I  But,  thinking  no  longer 
of  past  or  fhture,  let  us  come  at  once  to 
the  present,  and  see  New  York  as  it  is. 

PanoraBui  of  th«  Oity.  The  visitor 
will  do  well  to  accompany  us  to  the 
lofty  outlook  from  the  top  of  the  Tower 
of  Trinity  Church,  in  the  lower  part 
of  Broadway.  Here  he  can  pick  up 
some  general  idea  of  the  topography 
and  extent  of  the  City.  He  may  go 
there  at  any  time  when  the  building  is 
not  in  use  for  sacred  service,  paying 
the  porter  a  fee  for  his  raidance.  At 
the  unding,  on  a  level  with  the  ceiling 
of  the  church,  a  fine  view  is  had  of  the 
beautiful  interior.  At  the  head  of  an- 
other flight  of  stairs,  the  belfry,  with 
its  pleasant  chhnes,  is  reached.  Here, 
too,  is  a  balcony  affording  a  fine  view 
of  the  City ;  but  it  is  bM  higher  up 
that  the  scene  is  spread  forth  in  all  its 
glory — a  boundless  array  of  charms,  m 
city,  and  town,  and  villagei  river,  and 
bay,  and  island,  all  teemwg.  with  bright 
and  busy  life  and  actio|k  . 

With  this  superb  pktbra^  or  rather 
galleries  of  pictores,-  Mfbre  him,  the 
observer  gets  a  better  idea  than  he 
may,  perhaps,  have  had  before  of  one 
of  the  natural  advantages  which  has 
made  New  York  the  great  metropolis 
of  this  wide  country ;  its  noble  position 
at  the  meeting  of  great  waters,  leading 
inland^  and  its  unrivalled  harbors  upon 
the  sea. 

Yonder  stretches  the  beautiful  bay — 
one  of  the  safest  and  easiest  of  access 
in  the  world — eight  miles  out  to  those 
great  portals  famous  as  the  "  Narrows,** 
which  open  its  way  to  the  ocean. 
The  circumference  of  the  harbor  is  25 
miles,  within  which,  the  combined 
navies  of  the  world  might  lie  in  com- 
fort and  security.  The  scenery  here  is 
of  infinite  attraction,  in  all  the  proteian 
shapes  and  effects  of  mingled  huad  and 
water.  Great  ships  and  littie  erafts 
innumerable  seem  to  jostle  each  otter, 
and  cities,  and  villages,  and  villas  crowd 
the  shore,  from  the  water's  edge  to  the 
bold  hill-tops.  The  outer  harbor,  or 
the  bay  proper,  extends  from  the  Nar- 
rows to  Sandy  Hook  L^t,  18  miles 
from  the  city.    Within  m  harbor  are 


!=■ 


108 


NXW  TOSK. 


N*w  Tork  City— Th*  Bay— Atetoa  Idsnd— Hotela. 


tiM  plotureaqne  fortifloations  on  Oorer- 
nor's,  on  Bctdlow'B,  and  on  JBUia*i  blanda. 
Fort  Oolumbpa  oocuidM  the  centre  of 
OoTemor*8  laland.  and  at  its  north-east 
point  is  OasUe  WiHiam,  a  round  tower 
some  600  feet  in  ciroamferenoe,  and  60 
feet  Iiigh,  with  three  tiers  of  guns; 
while  at  the  north-west  is  a  battery,  com- 
mending  the  entrance  to  Buttennilk 
Channel,  by  which  the  island  is  sepa- 
rated  fronk  the  City  of  Brooldyn.  The 
defences  on  the  Long  IsbuMlehore,  atthe 
Narrows,  ar»  Forts  Hamilton,  and  La- 
fayette— ^formerly  Fort  Diamond.  This 
neighborhood  is  a  popular  summer  re- 
sort and  residence  of  the  people  of 
Kew  Tork.  Opposite  these  fortifica- 
tions, on  the  Btaten  Idand  shore,  sraa- 
rated  here  by  the  passage  of  the  liar- 
rows,  about  two-thirds  of  a  mUe  in 
width,  are  Forts  TomplBns  and  Blch- 
mond. 

States  Uaiid,  a  fitvorite  suburban 
home  of  Ne  wYork,  and  to  which  the  Bay 
is  indebted  for  so  much  of  its  beauty, 
is  about  six  miles  below  the  city,  with 
which  it  has  frequent  didly  connection. 
The  ishmd  is  14  miles  long,  and  from 
four  to  eight  wide.  It  constitutes  tiie 
county  of  Bichmond,  and  forms  the 
southern  extremity  of  the  State  of  New 
Tork.  It  is  separated  from  New  Jersey, 
on  the  west,  by  Staten  Idand  Sound. 
Bichmond  Hill,  at  the  north  end  of  the 
island,  commands  all  the  grand  scenes 
^hioh  might  be  expected  In  this  vicin- 
age, at  an  elevation  of  80?  feet  above 
the  sea.  Elegant  residences  cluster 
about  these  heights,  and,  from  the 
summit,  a  marine  telegrapli  overlooks 
them  and  the  sea.  Upon  a  blufl|  on 
the  east  side  of  the  island,  is  Prinoe's 
Bay  Light  House. 

Boteli.  With  this  glimpse  over  the 
city  and  harbor,  let  us  now  see  how  our 
traveller  is  lodged,  tor^  with  the  finest 
and  best-appointed  hotels  in  the  world 
at  his  service,  it  would  be  a  i^ty  if  he 
were  domiciled  other  than  most  com- 
fortably. 

7%«  Aator  Home  (opened  in  1886X 
we  should,  perhaps,  mention  first  in  our 
list,  as  the  gl|piit,  and  one  of  the  very 
best  of  thoM  of  the  highest  rank.    It 


Is  a  massive  granite  structure,  of^simple 
but  imposing  design.  Its  iagade  ex- 
tends from  street  to  street,  801  fret,  on 
Broadwav,  omiodte  the  Pari^,  with  it* 
Oitv  Hall,  and  other  public  buildings, 
and  its  great  Groton  Fountain.  It  is 
the  only  toadlng  hotel  left  in  the  tower 
part  of  the  city,  thoiuh  all  the  region 
there  is  f^  thronged  with  most  excel- 
lent establishments,  in  fiivor  with  dti- 
sens  and  strangers,  who  c<msult  thebr 
budness  cflipvemence  only. 
The  St.  mcholas,  one  of  the  most 

3>lendid  of  all  the  hotels  constructed  in 
ew  Tork,  is  in  Broadnnl^,  between 
Broome  and  firing  streets.  Its  entbe 
front,  according  to  the  original  plan,  is 
constructed  of  pure  white  marble;  but 
it  now  includes  the  new  brown-stone 
building  adjoining  it,  extending  up  to 
Spring  street.  It  is  six  stories  mgh, 
with  200  feet  front  on  Broadway,  uid 
200  feet  in  depth. 

The  Metropolitan  Hotel  is  dtuated  on 
the  comer  of  Broadway  and  Prince 
street,  and  occui^M  nei^y  an  entire 
block.  The  first  story,  fronting  <m 
Broadway,  is  siroported  by  cast-iron 
columns,  whilst  we  upper  part  is  built 
of  brown  freestone.  The  side  fronting 
on  Prince  street  is  of  bride,  excepting 
about  80  feet,  which  is  of  the  same 
material  as  the  front  The  windofrs 
are  trimmed  with  cornices,  supported- 
by  trusses,  and  the  top  is  surmounted 
by  a  heavy  cornice  of  brown  stone.  Its 
dhnendons  are  278  feet  front  on  Broad- 
way, and  on  Prince  street  a  front  of 
200  feet,  although  its  depth  is  but  fiO 
feet,  in  the  centre  of  the  block, 
direotiy  back  of  the  hotel,  is  Niblo'a 
Theatre. 

The  Prescott  House  is  another  new 
and  elegant  bidlding,  60  feet  on  Broad- 
way, and  125  feet  on  Spring  street.  It 
!s  six  stories  high.  The  mrst  story  is 
supported  by  cast-iron  columns,  and 
the  upper  part  is  of  the  finest  brick. 

The  La  Farge  House  is  a  new  and 
sumptuous  hotel  of  the  higbert  class. 
Itr  has  an  impomng  facade  of  white 
marble  upon  Broadway,  between  Bond 
and  Amity  streets.  It  was  entirely 
destroyed  by  fire  at  the  moment  of  its 


. 


KEW  TOBX. 


109 


Hotels— Pnblle  Parkt. 


et  new 
)road- 
Bt.  It 
jtorj  ia 
and 
sk. 
and 

class. 
I  white 

Bond 
ktirely 
[of  its 


y 


eompletion,  but  was  Immediately  re- 
built, and  opened,  for  the  ftret  time,  in 
the  spring  of  1866.  Burton's  new  up- 
town Theatre  is  in  the  rear,  with  en- 
trance mi  Broadway,  through  the  hotel 
edifice. 

The  New  Tork  Hotel  Is  one  of  the 
largest  and  most  fiuhionable  in  the  dty. 
It  la  **  up  town,**  on  Broadway,  extend- 
ing frail  WashingUMMtoWayerley  Place. 
Near  by,  is  the  New  Tork  UniTersity, 
and  the  Washington  Park.  DirecUT 
oppodte  is  the  Uhuroh  of  the  Messiu 
and  Hope  Chapel. 

The  St.  Dennis,  comer  of  BlroadwaT 
and  Eleventh  street,  of  unique  archi- 
tecture. Is  one  of  the  best  appointed, 
and  most  fashionable  houses  in  the 
city. 

Union  Park  Hotel  Is  an  elegant  estab- 
lishment upon  the  comer  of  Broadway 
tmd  Union  Square.  In  front,  north- 
ward, is  the  bronse  equestriui  statue 
of  Washington,  erected  July  4th,  1856, 
the  Union  Park  and  fountrai. 

The  Ererett  House,  erected  within 
the  past  few  years,  is  an  impodng,  orna- 
mented brick  edifice  fronting  on  Fourth 
avenue  and  the  north  line  of  Union 
Square.  It  is  directly  across,  opposite 
the  Union  Pkce  Hotel  It  has  both 
tahh  d*Mt»  and  restaurant. 

The  Clarendon  is  yet  higher  up,  on 

.Fourth  avenue,  comer  of  Eighteenth 

street.    It  is  a  reeherehi  house  of  high 

fashion,  in  especial  &Tor  with  Engluh 

travellers. 

The  Brevoort  House,  Fifth  avenue 
and  Cninton  Phice,  and  the  St.  Oermain, 
Fifth  avenue,  Broadway,  and  Twenty- 
second  street,  are  new  up-town  hotels 
of  the  highest  rank.  They  are,  like  the 
Everett  House,  conducted  on  the  Euro- 
pean plan,  with  both  tMe  d^Mte  and 
caft,  rooms  and  board,  or  either  alone. 
The  Julian,  in  Washington  Place,  near 
Broadway,  is  a  fiuhionable  hotd  and 
boarding-house. 

There  are,  beddes,  very  many  most 
excellent  hotels,  and  hundreds  of  the 
second  and  third  class — but  we  have 
mentioned  enough  for  ail  the  uses  of 
the  traveller. 

OMgr  Puin  and   Bqaam.    The 


Central  Paik  will  occupy  a  grand  titm, 
in  the  unser  part  of  the  Uland.  '  Theie 
grounds  nave  but  recently  beitt 
chased  by  the  city,  and  are  yet  enl 
uncultivated.  In  due  time,  ttwy 
give  New  Toric  one  of  the  largest  ittd 
most  beautiM  parka  in  the  wond.  The 
little  greei»  which  at  present  nssl  fiw 
parks,  may  better  bear  their  fiimiltiHr 
name  of  square,  since  they  are  lM>t|iiliii| 
more. 

TlM  Bnttny,  which  contdni  alMwl 
II  aeres,  is rituated  at  the  extreme  s<»iitli 
end  of  the  City,  at  the  oommeneeinelA 
of  Broadway,  and  is  i^nted  witii 
treea^  utd  hwl  out  in  gravrt  walks. 
From  tUs  plaee  Is  a  deU^tftd  view  of 
the  harbor  and  Hs  islands,  of  the  i^v- 
merountesMla  arriving  and  departtil^ 
of  the  a^acent  shores  of  New  Jersey,, 
andofStatenandLonglsUmds.  Cturap 
Qarden,  connected  with  the  Battery,  by 
means  of  a  bridge,  was  once  i»wd  fi>? 
publio  meetings,  exhlMtimis,  and  eott^ 
certs.  Here  Jenny  Lli^  Unit  pang  fH 
America.  The  fairs  of  the  AmcHnoiuit 
Institute  were  held  here  for'tevena 

{ears.    It  Is  ^ven  over  now  to  the 
Imigrant  Offlce  for  a  receptacle  of  11m 
debarking  foreign  populations. 

Th*  Bowling  Ckmb,  rituated  n<iar 
the  Battery,  and  at  the  commencement 
of  Broadway,  is  of  an  oval  fonB, 
and  surrounded  by  an  iron  railing. 
Within  its  enclosure  is  a  fountain,  the 
water  of  which  falls  in  jdeasant  whii^ 
pers,  to  the  dusty  streets,  of  the  fresli- 
ness  and  beauty  of  forest-wilds. 

TIm  FaxlC  ia  a  triangular  endostttiB 
in  the  lower  part  of  the  city ;  it  has  ih 
area  of  11  acres,  containing  the  City 
Hall  and  otb^i-  buildings.  It  is  emlbeK 
fished  in  its  south  part  with  a  sug^ 
founts  the  badn  of  which  is  100  llHtt 
In  diameter.  In  the  centre  of  the  Kaa&K 
Is  A  piece  of  woric  in  the  shape  of  ua 
Egyptian  lil^.  Through  convco^  ]k0 
plates,  with  numerous  perfiMatioiis^ 
placed  ai^und  thii  base  of  this  woriCt  tke 
water  Is  prcgected  into  the  air,  uid  fidEls 
in  the  form  of  a  heavy  mist,  around  a 
column,  that  rises  to  a  consideraUe 
height,  throueh  the  midst  of  the  green 
leaves  of  the  lotua. 


110 


raw  TOKK* 


I      tJnloii  Bqnan,  Naur  Tork. 


StJolu'iParib  Small  but  besuti- 
ftd  grounds  in  Hucbon  stf«et,  belonging 
to  the  vestry  of  Trinity  Oiiuroh.  St. 
Jolin's  Oburoh,  »  Obapel  of  Trinity,  ia 
on  the  eMt  side  of  the  square. 

tJTaihlngton  Smim^  is  a  pleasant 
QjHtown  park,  a  little  west  of  Broad- 
way, with  the  elegant  private  reridences 
of  Waverley  Place  and  Foqrth  street  on 
the  n<frth  and  south  sides,  and  upon  the 
east  the  grand  marble  edifice  of  the 
New  ToHt  Universitv,  and  Dr.  Button's 
beautifld  Gothic  church.  A.  superb 
fountain  ooGU|ries  the  centre  of  these 
gfounds. 

XMoa  Furk  is  in  Union  Square,  at 
the  bend  in  the  upper  part  of  Broad- 
way, extending  from  Fourteenth  to 
Seventeenth  streets.  On  the  south-east 
comer  oi  Union  Square  is  the  Union 
Kaee  Htotel,  and  the  new  bronze  eques- 
trian statue  by  Brown.  On  the  upper 
side  is  the  Everett  House,  and,  near  by, 
the  Clarendon  Hotel  Bev.  Mr.  Abbotts 
Sfdngler  Institnte  fbr  Ladles  is  upon  the 
west,  and  flso  Dr.Oheever's"  Church  of 
the  Puritans.** 

Onuoanj  Fuk  is  a  little  to  the 
north-east  of  Union  Square,  a  charming 
ground,  belonging  to  the  owners  of  the 
tteeani  private  homes  around  them. 

Stoytwant  Park  is  divided  in  the 
centre  by  the  passage  of  the  Second 


avenue.  It  extends  from  Fifteenth 
to  Seventeenth  streets.  The  new  St. 
George's  Church  (Rev.  Dr.  Tyng),  is 
upon  the  west  side  of  this  parlc. 

TompUiia  Bquar^  one  of  the  larg- 
est parks  of  New  York,  is  betwe6n 
Avenues  A  and  B,  and  Seventh  and 
Tenth  streets. 

Btbdlaoa  Square  is  up  town,  just 
above  the  intersection  of  Broadway  and 
fifth  avenue  at  Twenty-thiri),  street. 

HamUton  Square,  newer  ground 
still  above. 

PITBLIO  BUILDINGB— MUNICIPAL. 

The  City  Hall  is  an  imporing  edifice ; 
the  south  firont  is  built  of  marble,  and 
the  rear,  or  north  side,  of  Nyack  free- 
stone. It  was  constructed  between  the 
years  1808  and  1810.  It  occupies  the 
centre  of  the  Park,  in  the  lower  part 
of  the  city,  and  is  surrounded  by  other 
city  offices.  It  is  at  present  proposed 
to  enlarge  it  very  greatly.  In  this 
building  are  twenty-eight  offices,  and 
other  public  apartmente,  the  prindpal 
of  which  is  the  Governor's  room^  ap- 
propriated to  the  use  of  that  functionary 
on  his  visiting  the  city,  and  ocncdonally 
to  that  of  other  distinguished  indvidu« 
als.  The  walls  of  this  room  ace  em- 
bellished with  a  fine  collection  of  por^ 
traits  of  men  celebrated  in  Hho  civil, 


a 
a 
ti 
r 
b^ 
c< 
si 
li| 

hi 
T 
fc 
ai 

cl 

ei 

ai 
lo 
ai 

C( 


re 
n< 

ct 
si< 
e( 


edifice; 
ble,  and 
ck  free- 
reen  the 
pies  the 
«r  part 
>7  other 
ropoeed 
In  this 
sea,  and 
rindpal 
0%  ap- 
ionary 
iondly 
i^Tidn- 
em- 
I  of  por- 
civil, 


law  TOBX. 
Pnblle  BolkHop,  OollagM,  and  UUnrjr  iMUtntlolMi 


111 


mOitaiT,  or  naTal  hiatorr  of  the  coan< 
try.  In  the- Common  Oound!  voomia 
tlie  identical  chair  ooonpied  bT  WmH- 
ington  when  Preddent  of  the  first 
American  Congreo,  which  assembled 
InthiidtT. 

The  MmikuiUi  Smtkmtft^  in  Wall 
street,  is  bnttt  In  the  wipl  dimble  man- 
ner, of  Qqlw J  granitk,  tlld  is  fireiiroof; 
no  wood  haTing  been  nied  in  its  con- 
traction, mcepklbrthe  doors  ind  win- 
dow fralMS.  It  is  erected  on  ithe  dte 
oceapied  by  the  Szehtnge  Imilding  de- 
stroyed by  the  great  five  <tf  1885.  The 
present  oap,  howeverj  ooTen  the  entire 
block,  and  ii  800  fiset  kwg  by  171  to 
144  wid»i|  and  184  to  the  too  of  the 
dome.  :  Ita  enthw  coel,  including  the 
ground,  1NM  over  |1,860,000. 

The  Cmlem  MimM  is  dtuated  on  the 
corner  of  Wall  and  Nassau  streets.  It 
is  built  of  white  marble,  in  the  Doric 
order,  dmUar  in  modd  to  the  Parthenon 
at  Athens.  It  is  200  feet  long,  90  wide, 
andSO  higji.  The  great  hm  fw  the 
transaction  of  business  Is  a  circular 
room,  60  fieet  in  diameter,  surmountied 
by  a  dome,  supported  by  16  Corinthian 
columns,  80  feet  high,  and  hftiing  a 
skylight,  through  which  the'haU  is 
lighted. 

The  Pott  Ofiee  is  in  Nassau  street, 
between  Cedtur  and  Uberty  streets. 
The  buildfaig  is  in  no  way  remaricable 
for  any  arcmtectuni  beauty,  but  merely 
as  being  one  of  the  remnants  of  the 
past,  having  been  formerly  used  as  a 
church  by  one  of  the  old  Dutch  con- 
gregations. 

The  Htdl  ofJuHiee  or  "  Tombs,**  is  lo- 
cated in  Centre  street,  between  Leonard 
and  Franklin  streets.  It  is  a  substantial- 
looking  buol^g,  in  the  %yptian  style  of 
architecturei,268  feet  long,  and  200  wide, 
constructed  of  a  light-colored  granite. 

Literatjf  IntHMiotu  and  lAbraritt. 

Columbia  College  has  been  recently 
removed  from  the  foot  of  Park  Place, 
near  Broadway,  fiir  up  town,  having  re- 
dgned  the  old  grounds  which  it  has  oc- 
culted for  so  many  years.  Th6  exten- 
don  of  Park  Place  has  already  destroy- 
ed the  andent  green  lawns,  and  its  ve- 


nerable buildlnn.  Columbia  CoUego 
was  chartered  bv  George  II.  in  1764, 
under  the  title  of  Xtaig's  College.  8tn- 
dints,  160.    Library,  16,000  ^rols. 

TIm  New  York  Univerdtv  occupies 
a  grUnd  Gothic  edifice  of  wl|ite  marole, 
upon  tiio  east  side  of  Wushfaggton  Park. 
Ala  structure  Ii  %  fine  eiiMnplo  of 
pdnted  arohlteotwt;  nol  mdike  that  of 
King's  OoUege,  fhunbrlWs,  Snghind. 
The  ohapeMbi  the  {bentnibundlng— 4a, 
trith  ite  ndbWIrUidvw,  80  fitet  high,  and 
24  fitet  wide,  om  of  tN  most  beauUAa 
rooms  In  the  cowMry.  The  whole  edi- 
fice is  180  fiftetlwic.  This  Universitv 
was  founded  in  1881,  and  in  its  collegi- 
ate, medical,  and  grammar  sehoou, 
are  some  700  or  800  students.  The 
apartments  in  the  north  wing  of  the 
ifnlverdty,  are  ehfefly  occu^ed  by 
artists*  studios.  A  greater  number  of 
our  accompUshed   dty    pdnters   are 

Sthered  under  this  appropriate  roof^ 
in  are  to  be  fofind  in  any  other  one 
place  ^n  New  Tofk. 

The  Free  Aoadeiny,Lezington  avoiua 
and  88d  street,  up  town,  reached  b^ 
Hariem  cars,  or  Fourth  avenue  stages. 
This  is  a  pnUic  oollm;iate  academy  of 
the  highest  ruU(.  Its  students  are 
chosen  from  tnFpnpUs  of  tfie  publie 
schools  only.  Tlie  building  is  a  fine 
ntructure,  in  the  style  of  the  town  haOs 
of  the  Nethertands.  u  will  accomfno- 
date  1,000  pupils. 

The  Cooper  Union,  is  a  munificent 
public  gift  trom  Peter  Cooper,  Esq.,  an 
eminent  merchant  of  New  York.  It  is 
intended  to  be  a  free-school  for  the 
cultivation  of  sdence  and  of  the  prac- 
tied  arts,  the  magidficent  edifice  now 
in  progress  for  its  nsej^is  on  Astor 
Place,  oppodte  the  New  Bible  House. 

The  Generd  Theologicd  Seminary 
of  the  Protestant  Bpiscmpal  Church,  U 
charmingly  situated  on  West  20th  St., 
between  Ninth  «nd  Tenth  avenuesw 

St.  Francis  Xavier.  89  West  16th 
street. — ^Union  Theok^cd  B^rainaary, 
9  Umverdty  Hace,  jwt  abovis  the  New 
York  Univerdty. 

The  New  York  IBstoried  Sodety,  at 
present  in  the  Univerdty  Buflding,  is 
upon  the  eve  of  removing  to  a  new  and 


Hi 


MEW  TOBK* 

XilMiiy  iMMlMMd  LtbnrlMk 


'^"tlM  FrM  Ao«d«ni7,  N«w  York  Cltf. 


bMUtlftil  flre-proof  edlfioe  on  the  Second 
•▼enne.    lAhritj,  20,000  ▼olomea. 

American  Geognimicel  Sooiety  has 
fooni*  in  the  New  Tork  Univenity. 

Lyceum  of  NAtnral  Hiitoi^,  in  the 
bailiff  of  the  New  Tork  Unirenitv 
Me^UoalSchool,  14thitreet,  new  Fourth 
arenne.  Incorporated  in  1808.  for  sci- 
entiflo  adrancement  Th«  Soeiety  poa- 
aeaeea  a  large  library,  and  a  Aim  eabinet 
of  mineral^oal  imamens. 

New  ToriE  Law  Inatitute.    CftiyHalL 

The  Aetor  Library  i«  a  publie  collec- 
tion of  high  order,  fomded  by  tbe  mn- 
nifioence  of  the  late  John  Jacob  Aator. 
It  numbers  at  present  about  80^000 
Tolumes.  Hie  building,  on  Lafayette 
Place,  is  one  of  the  diief  architectural 
attractions  of  the  city.  - 

Th^  Mercantile  library,  OUnton  Hall 
(late  liter  Place  Opera  House),  Eighth 
street,  near  Broadway.  This  old  and 
pop^ilar  Institution  has  at  present  some 


40,000  Tolumes,  in  every  department  of 
letters.  Its  members  number  between 
4,000  and  6,000.  The  winter  courses  of 
lectures  before  the  Mercantile  Library 
Association  are  among  the  greatest 
pleasures  of  the  season. 

New  Tork  Bociety*LibraiT  now  oc* 
cupies  a  new  and  beautiful  building  in 
UniTcrsity  PUce,  near  12th  street.  It 
possesses  about  86,000  books. 

Ajqirentices'  Library  (14,000  toIs.), 
is  in  the  Mechanics'  Hall,  Broadway, 
near  Grand  street. 

The  American  Institute  is  at  present 
at  849  Broadway,  but  is  about  to^  erect 
a  suitable  builfung  for  Its  uses.  The 
Annual  Exhibitions  of  mechanic  art  and 
industry  of  this  Society,  make  a  fea- 
ture in  the  autumn  pleasures  of  the  me- 
tropolis. N 

The  Mechanics'  Institute  has  a  librarr 
of  about  8,000  volumes;  20  Fourth 
avenue. 


w 


SPPBT 


lent  of 

between 

lines  of 

Libnry 

greatest 

now  0C- 
Iding  in 

▼oli.X 
|roftdwaf, 

present 
I  to^  erect 
The 

I  art  and 
te  a  fea> 

'the  me- 

lalibrarr 
Fourth 


raw  TOBK. 
Art  •odvtlM-PabUfl  OharMta 


Itt 


ABT  B0CISTIB8  AND  OALLSBISB. 


TIm  Nnttooal  Aoad&mj  of 
rig»— the  ohief  Art  instltiition  of 
America— was  fbnnded  in  18S6,  sfakoe 
which  time  it  has  steadilj  adraneed  in 
influence  and  usefulness.  It  nninbers 
among  its  aeademioUuis  and  associates 
nearly  all  of  the  eminent  artists  ci  the 
eitj  and  vicinity.  It  sapports  free 
schools  for  tht  stvdy  of  the  antiqae 
and  the  llTing  model;  possesses  an  ex- 
tenslTe  and  Tahuble  Art  library ;  makes 
Annual  Exhibitions  oS  orighial  worics  by 
American  and  fimreign  painters  and 
sculptors,  4c  The  Sxhibitions  of  the 
National  Academy  are  the  great  CTcnt 
of  the  spring  sesson  In  New  York. 
The  Academy  ocqnides  at  present  tem- 

Eorary  quarters  at  68  Bast  18th  street, 
aving  recently  sold  its  old  galleries, 
and  being  on  the  eve  of  erecting  a  new 
and  more  svitaUe  edifice. 

The  New  Toric  Oallery  of  the  line 
Arts,  is  a  permanent  collecUon  of 
American  art,  commenced  a  few  years 
ago.  It  contains  many  Taluable  woriu, 
but  they  are  at  present  inaocesrible, 
and  will  be  untQ  proper  gaUeries  shall 
be  provided  for  their  accommodation. 

The  Dusseldorf  Gallery  is  an  admira- 
ble exhibition  of  the  works  of  Oerman 
pidnters,  chiefly  of  the  Dusseldorf 
school— 497  Broadway,  in  the  apart- 
ments erected  and  formerly  occupied 
by  the  late  American  Art  Union. 

The  Bryan  Gallery,  or  Chdlery  of 
Christian  Art,  comer  of  Broadway  and 
18th  street,  is  an  extremely  interesting 
and  valuable  collection  of  the  works  of 
the  old  masters. 

The  Free  fine  Art  Gallery  of  Messrs. 
WilUanv<,  Stevens,  Williams  and  Co., 
868  Broskidway,  is  always  rich  in  obiects 
of  rare  interest,  pictures,  engravings, 
and  other  works. 

The  New  Bible  House  is  one  of  the 
largest  structures  in  the  city.  It  covers 
the  entire  area  betweenThird  and  Fourth 
avenues  on  the  west  and  east,  and  8th 
and  9th  street  on  the  south  and  north. 
The  printing  rooms  and  other  offices  of 
the  American  Bible  Society  are  here. 

Tke  Nvw  York  BotpittU  (founded  in 


1771)  stands  back  on  a  lawn,  upoB 
Broadway,  opposite  Pearl  street. 

JMital  SXooU.  ITtm  York  VMm' 
tU^MidUal  Dtpartmtitt^  107  Bast  Fonv* 
teenth  street.  CoMiys  <f  Fk^tMmu 
mud  <6^pwsf•t,  Bast  Twentymdrd  stresA 
and  Fourth  avenve.  JVm  York  Aetuk' 
mp  of  JfsdMns,  meets  the  first  Wedne^ 
day  of  eadi  month  at  the  UntrersitT. 

/imMhMmi  /hr  Ms  JUM;  occupies  » 
large  and  Imposing  Oothio  edifice  of 
gnmlte,  on  I^th  avenvt,  hi  the  north- 
west  psyrt  of  the  city.  Beached  by  tht 
Ninth  and  BMith  avenuo  stages.  Yis- 
iters  recelvea  on  TuesdaTs,  from  1  to  • 
P.  M.  The  Institvtion  hM  about  on* 
hundred  popOs. 

Jhaf  mid  JDmib  At^lum^  Fiftieth 
street  and  Fourth  arenue,  via  Harlem 
raihroad.  visitors  admitted  trum  1  to 
4,  P.  M.  The  Urge  and  commodloas 
buildhig  of  tills  Institatloi\  aocomauH 
dates  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  pnpQs. 

2%e  JBloomkigdtUt  Awhm/hr  Ms  In- 
tan0  and  thi  Jnit  Yark  Orphan  Atj^um^ 
are  in  the  upper  part  of^the  Ishmd,  7 
miles  ftom  tne  CSty  Hall,  on  the  Une  of 
one  of  the  pleasantest  drives  about  New 
York. 

BlaehBaP$  Idtmd.  Hit  OU^  Ptni- 
Umtiaryy  the  LwMiie  ^jry/wn,  Ms  Alm» 
Smm,  SotpUal  and  Work  JSRNMe,  on 
BUckweli's  Ishmd,  in  the  Bast  Rirer, 
are  worth  the  especial  attention  of  the 
stranger.  This  luand,  as  also  Ward's 
and  Randall's  Islands,  m^  be  rescind 
by  steamboat,  fkom  foot  of  Grand  street, 
Iktst  River,  at  12,  M.,  daily;  or  by  the 
Harlem  stages  to  l^ty-first  street- 
Stages  leave  26  Chatham  street  every 
fifteen  minutes. 

Ward'$  and  XandatTi  Jdatuh,  near 
bv,  are  occuided  by  the  public  oharitap 
ble  Institutions.  The  elegant  and  mas- 
sive structures  which  cover  this  famous 
group  of  islands  make  a  striking  fi»a» 
ture  in  the  landscape,  as  we  sdl  up  the 
East  River  to  the  suburban  villages  on 
Long  Island,  or  en  route  for  Long  Id* 
and  Sound. 

OhnrolMS.  New  York  ]fMa  abcr  t. 
278  churches,  many  of  which  are  rei  v 
costly  and  impodng  edifices. — ^Amoikg 
those  most  worthy  the  notice  of  A« 


U4 


NSW  TOSK. 


Ohnrches— llieMtrM— <3ry>Ul  Ttiwee   Ofoton  Aqnedaot 


svanger,  are  DrinUy  akureh  (EpiaoO' 
ml ),  in  the  lower  part  of  Broadway ; 
8t.  Pau/'«( Episcopal),  not  far  off,  in 
Broadway ;  /«.  John^$  ( Spiacopal ),  in 
St.  John's  Park ;  8t.  Thomai  (Episco- 
pal ),  3jroadway  and  Houston  street ; 
Grae9  ctiurch  (Episcopal),  Broadway 
and  Tenth  street;  Okureh  of  the  Fun- 
tana  (Dr.  Oheever,  C!bngre|»tioDal X 
ITnion  Square;  South  Jhtieh,  Fifth  ave- 
nue and  Tweirty-first  street ;  Dutch 
jHeform^  (Dr.  Button  1  Washington 
Square;  St.  Markka  (Episcopal,  Dr. 
4.uthon),StuyTe8ant  street;  St.  Oeorge'a 
(Dr.  Tyng,  Episcopal),  East  Sixteenth 
street,  Stuyvesant  Square;  JPfo-xt  Bap- 
titi,  comer  of  Broome  and  Elizabeth 
streets;  Amity  Street,  Dr.  Williams 
(Baptist),  81  Amity ;  OHvw  StreetyJBap- 
tist.  Dr.  Magoon ;  St.  PatrieVa  Cathe- 
dral (H.  GA  comer  of  IVivoe  aad  Mott 
streets;  miteh  Be/ormed,  Lafayette 
Flaqe;  J)r.  Potta\  Presbyterian,  in 
UniTermty  Place,  comer  Tenth  street ; 
Church  of  the  Divine  Unity  (Universal- 
istX  Dr.  Ohai^n,  648  Broadway ;  Church 
of  the  Meaaiahy  Unitarian,  Dr.  Osgood, 
928  Broadway;  Church  of  AU  Souh 
(Unitarian),  Dr.  Bellows,  Fourth  avenue, 
corner  of  Twentieth  street ;  Church  of 
the  Mofy  Hedeemer,  German  Catholic, 
Ttdrd  street,  near  Avenue  A;  lirat 
Preabyterian  Churchy  Dr.  Phillips,  fifth 
avenue,  between  Eleventh  and  Twelfth 
a^^ets;  Church  of  the  Holy  Communion, 
EfHBcopal,  Dr.  Muhlenburg,  ffixth  ave- 
nue and  Twentieth  street ;  Pifih  Avenue 
Preal^fterisn  church,  Dr.  Alexander, 
comer  of  IRneteenth  street;  IVeneh 
Chm^  Protestant  Episcopal,  Dr.  Yer- 
ren,  comer  of  Church  and  Franklin 
greets ;  Trinity  Chapel,  Episcopal,  2dth 
street,  near  Broadway ;  Church  of  the 
Annundation,  Ef^opal,  Dr.  Seabury, 
Fourteenth  street,  between  SixtJi  and 
Seventh  avenues ;  Church  of  the  Aacen- 
aion,  Episcopal,  Dr.  Bedell,  Fifth  ave- 
nue, corner  of  Tenth  street ;  St.Barthol- 
omew\  Episcopal,  comer  of  Lafayette 
Place  and  Great  Jones  street :  SMorai 
^mhita  (Gates  of  Prayer),  Hebrew,  112 
Wooster  <8treet ;  Bnai  Jeshurun  (  Sons 
of  Jeshurun),  Hebrew,  Greene  street, 
near.  Houston. 


THEATRES  AND  PLAGES  OF 
AMUSEMENT.  ^ 

The  Acadam  of  Muaie,  or  Italian 
Opera  House,  is  at  the  comer  of  Four- 
teenth street  and  Irving  Place.  Seats 
for  4,600  persons. 

The  Broadway  7%eatre,  Broadway, 
between  A*. 'bony  and  Pearl  streets. 

Burtop^a  Sruatre  (late  Metropolitan), 
641  Broadway.  ^ 

WaUaeea  Thtaire.,  486  Broadway. 

NibWa  Garden  and  Saloon,  rear  of 
Metropolitan  Hotel,  Broadway,  comer 
of  Prince  street. 

Laura  Kernel  Vurietiea,  622  Broad- 
way. 

iowety  JlMxtrey  Bowery.  M.-.  John 
Brougham,  lessee. 

BwmunCa  Museum,  comer  of  Broad- 
way and  Ann  street. 

Bueklejfa  Serenadera,  Broadway,  op- 
posite Niblo's. 

Wood^a  Minatrela,  440  Broadway. 

MISCELLANEOUS  OBJECTS  AND  PLA- 
CES WORTH  SEEING  IN  THE  CITY 
AND  ON  THE  ISLAND  OF  NEW 
YORK. 

The  Chyital  Palace  is  in  Reservoir 
Square,  covering  an  area  of  1000  by  600 
feet,  on  Sixth  avenue,  from  Fortieth  to 
Forty-second  street.  This  unique  and 
imposing  structure  should  be  vifiitcd 
(whether  it  be  occupied  or  not)  by  all  citi- 
zens and  strangers.  It  mav  be  reached 
at  any  moment  by  the  Sixth  avenue 
cars,  and  other  railway  and  stage  lines. 

Tlie  Oroton  Aqueduot.  Receiving 
JReaervoir  on  York  Hill,  about  five  miles 
from  the  city ;  the  Diatributir^  Reaer- 
voir  on  Murray  Hill,  Fifth  avenue,  ad- 
joining the  Crystal  Palace,  and  reached 
by  the  same  routes  and  by  the  Fifth 
avenue  stages. 

The  Groton  Aqueduct,  the  greatest 
public  work  of  the  city,  brings  abundant 
supplies  of  water  from  the  Groton  Lake, 
40  miles  distant.  The  original  cost  of 
this  magnificent  labor  was  over  thirteen 
millions  of  dollars. 

High  Bridge  is  a  noble  work  coii- 
stracted  for  the  passage  of  the  Groton 
Aqueduct  over  the  Harlem  lUver,  from 
Westchester  County  to  the  Island  of 


«^ 


>r  Italian 

of  Four- 

!e.    Seats 

(roadway, 

treete. 

■opolitan), 

ladway. 
rt,  rear  of 
ly,  corner 

12  Broad- 
Hi'.  John 
of  Broad- 
dway,  op- 

iidway. 

AND  PLA- 

rHE  CITY 

OF    NEW 

Besenroir 
)00by600 
i'ortieth  to 
lique  and 

_  Tisitcd 
ibyaOciti- 
>e  reached 
Ih  avenue 

ige  Imes. 
Ijieeeivinff 
Ifive  miles 
\ng  BeteT' 
renue,  ad- 
Id  reached 
Ithe  Fifth 

greatest 
■abundant 
Ion  Lake, 
kl  cost  of 

'  thirteen 

rork  cou- 

Croton 

rer,  from 

sUind  of 


TOW  TOSK. 

Babnrban  Bworta  of  N*w  York. 


lis 


New  Tork.  The  Harlem  railway  to 
Harlem,  Ax  miles,  and  thence  a  short 
distance  by  omnibus. 

Hm  AxMiud  is  on  fifth  •vjenue, 
between  Sixty-second  and  Sixty-fifth 
streets,  within  the  great  area  of  the  new 
Central  Fade  Hurlem  oars,  or  Sixty- 
first  Street  stages. 

The  magnificent  newspaper  oflBces  of 
the  city,  of  the  New  Tork  Herald,  Tri- 
bune, Times  and  others,  and  the  exten- 
sive book  estd>lishments  of  the  Ebrpers 
and  the  Appletons,  Sre  places  of  ex- 
ceeding interest. 

Many  of  the  private  residences  of  the 
city,  particularly  the  palatial  abodes  on 
the  Jnfih,  menue  and  its  vicinity,  should 
be  seen,  if  one  would  get  any  niir  idea 
of  *the  architectural  beauty  and  splen- 
dor of  the  metropolis. 

HarUwii  a  part  of  the  city,  at  the 
north  end  of  the  Island,  is  upon  the 
Harlem  Biver.  Cars  from  City  Hall 
Harlem  R.  R.  depots,  seven  miles. 

SIooBiingdala  and  ICaiiluittaiivilto 
are  at  the  north  end  of  the  Island  of 
New  Tork. 

THE  XNYIBONS  OF  SEiW  YOBK. 

PlacM  of  interett  in  the  vieinojfe  of  th$ 
City. 

Hobokaa  and  WeehawkMi,  charm- 
ing rural  resorts — ^in  summer-time— 
across  the  Hudson  ^ver,  on  the  New 
Jersey  shore.  Here  are  delightfril  walks, 
for  miles,  along  the  margin  of  the  river 
on  high  ground  overlookhig  the  Bay 
and  city,  and  all  the  country  round- 
in  shady  woods  and  upon  verdant  lawns, 
and  unong  wild  forest  glens.  Ferry, 
ever^^ew  nunutes  (fare  three  cents), 
from  Barclay,  Canal,  Christopher  and 
West  Nineteenth  streets. 

Aatoflai  a  suburban  village  on  Long 
lBlkind,,Bix  ndles  up  the  East  lUver,  near 
the  famous  w,hirlpool  of  Hell  Gate,  a 
place  of  beautiful  villas.  Steamboat, 
foot  of  Fulton  street,  East  River,  or  by 
stage  every  hour,  from  23  Chatham 
street,  to  foot  of  Eighty-sixth  street — 
cross  by  Hell  Gate  Ferry. 

BtatMi  hUaaA.  New  Brighton,  Port 
Jiiehmond,  and  SaUore^  Snua  Harbor. 
Ferry  every  hour  and  a  halt,  from  8i, 


▲.  M.  to  ejJTt  p.  X.,  fit>m  foot  of  WhitehaU 
street  To  Quarantine,  Stapleton  and 
Yanderbilt's  Landing,  ferry  every  hour, 
foot  of  Whitehall  street.  NottOng  can 
be  more  ei^ovable  than  a  sail  dowii  the 
Bay  to  any  of  the  v:  '<  ges  and  laffdings 
of  Staten  Island ;  and  nothing  more 
agreeable  than  the  right  of  its  many 
suburban  villas,  or  of  the  superb  views 
over  land  and  sea  which  its  high  grounds 
command.  Brighton  is  a  parnculariy 
beautifhl  little  TUlage,  with  good  hotels 
and  boarding-houses.  Near  it,  is  the 
Sailors*  Snug  Harbor  for  decayed  mari- 
ners. Two  miles  ea>>t  of  Brighton,  is 
the  Quarantine  Oroand,  the  Marine 
Hospital  and  the  viUage  of  Tompfcins- 
viUe,  with  its  8000  peome.  The  voyage 
to  Staten  Island  occupiea  about  half  an 
hour. 

Fort  Hamilton^  8  milM  down  the 
Bay,  commands,  ill  connection  with 
Forts  Lafayette  and  Tonn^ins  omiOBite, 
the  passage  seAWttrd  of  ,j(he  Narrows. 
A  summer  reridenee  and  resort  for  sea 
bathing.    Via  boats  to  Coney  Island. 

OoiMiy  Xdaad,  belon^ng  to  the  town 
of  Gravesend,  is  five  ndles  long,  and  one 
broad,  and  is  rituated  about  12  miles 
from  New  Tork.  It  has  a  fine  beaeh 
fronting  the  ocean,  and  is  much  fre- 
quented for  sea-bathing.  On  the  norUi 
side  of  the  Island  is  an  holeL  Steam- 
boats ply  reguhuly  between  the  city 
and  Coney  Isbjid  during  the  summer 
season.    Fare,  12^  cents,  each  way. 

Rookaway  BsTaoh,  a  celebrated  and 
fashionable  watering-place,  on  the  At- 
lantic sea-coast,  is  in  a  south-east  direc- 
tion from  New  Tork.  The  Marine  Pa- 
vilion,  a  splendid  estsblishment,  erected 
in  1884,.  upon  the  beach,  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  ocean,  is  fiimished  in  a 
style  befitting  its  object  as  a  ptece  of 
resort  for  gay  and  fashioimble  company. 
There  Is  another  hotel  here  which  is 
well  kept ;  alsa  several  private  board- 
ing-houses, where  the  riritor,  seeking 
pleasure  or  health,  may  eidoy  the  in- 
vigorating ocean  breeze,  with  less  pa- 
rade and  at  a  more  reasonable  cost  than 
at  the  hotels.  The  best  route  to  Rock- 
away  is  by  the  Long  Island  Railroad  to 
Jamaica,  twelve  miles,  26  cents ;  thence 


# 


lie 


mW  TOKK. 


Bnlmrbui  BMorts  of  New  Tork. 


Long  Bnuoh,  New  Jenej. 


by  stage  eight  udlea,  orer  an  excellent 
road,  to  the  beach,  60  cents. 

Ziong  Bnmoh,  situated  on  the  east- 
em  coast  of  New  Jersey,  82  miles  from 
the  city  of  New  York,  is  a  popular  jdace 
of  resort  lOr  those  fond  of  seashore 
recreation,  and  where  a  pure  and  in- 
yigorating  atmosphere  is  always  to  be 
£Dund. 

!Fhe  Ocean  Boute,  a  hotel  of  the  first 
order,  a  short  cUstance  north  from  Long 
JBran^,  is  a  place  where,  during  the 
oppressive  heat  of  summer,  a  greater 
degree  of  real  comfort  can  be  enjoyed 
thui,  perhaps,  at  the  more  fkshionable 
watering-places. 

There  is  admirable  spdrt  in  this  vid- 
nity  for  the  angler.  The  Shrewsbury 
river  on  the  one  side,  and  the  ocean  on 
the  other,  swarm  with .  all  the  delicate 
varieties  of  fish  with  which  our  markets 
abound. 

Btxmntmrjf  Bad  Bank,  and  Tin- 
toa  Falls,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
above,  are  also  places  of  great  resort. 

Flnahing,  on  Long  Ishmd,  10  miles 
from  the  metropolis,  is  upon  an  arm  of 


The 
Boat 


the  Sound  called  Flushing  Bay. 
Lmniean  Botanic  Garden  is  here, 
at  Fulton  street. 

Flatboah,  about  five  miles  ttonk 
Brooklyn,  FUtlanda,  GkaTWMid,  ten 
miles,  are  small  but  handsome  {daces. 
Shores  of  the  latter  place  abound  iritii 
clams,  oysters,  and  fowl,  and  are  mnc^ 
resorted  to. 

Jamatoa,  another  suburban  town  on 
Long  Island,  is  12  miles  distant  by  the 
Long  Island  RaOroad. 

Gkewiwood  OeiiMteoty  is  in  the 
south  part  of  Brooklyn,  at  CMlk'anus, 
about  three  miles  fit>m  the  Fulton  Ferry, 
at  which  place  and  at  South  Ferry,  visi- 
tors take  the  stages,  which  leave  houriy 
for  the  Cemetery ;  fare,  12^  cents.  An- 
other w^to  Greenwood  is  by  the  new 
ferry  at  Whitehall,  which  landis  its  pas- 
sengers in  the  vicinity  of  the  Cemetery, 
on  a  pier  of  great  length,  jutting  out  from 
the  shore.  Carriages  run  from  the 
landing-place  to  the  Cemetery,  carrying 
passengers  at  a  trifling  charge. 

This  Cemetery  was  incorporated  in 
1888,  and  contuns  242  acres  of  ground, 


■fi,' 


Say. 

tere. 


The 
Boat 


from 
ten 
me  idacefk 
tound  with 
are  muq^ 

town  on 
it  by  the 

lie  in  the 

lQ#ranu8, 
ItonFerry, 
Jerry,  ▼!«- 
Ito  hourly 
BDts.   An* 
'  the  new 
its  pas- 
[^emetery, 
r  out  from 
Prom  the 
,  carrying 

>rated  in 
'ground, 


MEW  TOBK. 


117 


Saburbab  Betorti  of  New  Tork. 


about  one  half  of  which  is  ccvored  with 
wood  of  a  natural  growth.  It  originally 
contained  172  acres,  but  recently  70 
more  have  been  added  by  purchase, 
and  brought  within  the  enclosure. 
Free  entrance  is  allowed  to  persons  on 
foot  during  week-days,  but  on  the  Sab- 
bath none  but  the  proprietors  of  lots 
and  their  fiunilies^  and  persona  with 
them,  are  admitted ;  others  than  pro- 
prietors can  obtain  a  permit  for  car- 
riages on  wedK-days.  These  grounds 
have  a  taxied  tar&ce  bf  hills,  yalleys, 
und  plains.  The  elevations  afford  ex- 
tenrive  views;  that  from  Ocean  Hill, 
near  the  western  line,  presents  a  wide 
range  of  the  ocean,  witn  a  portion  of 
Long  Island.  Battle  HiU,  in  the  north- 
west, commands  an  extensive  view  of 
the  d^'es  of  Brooklyn  and  New  Yoik, 
the  Hudson  River,  the  noble  bay,  and 
of  New  Jersey  uid  Staten  Island.  From 
the  other  elevated  grounds  in  the  Ceme- 
tery diere  are  fine  prospects.  Green- 
wood is  traversed  by  winding  avenues 
and  paths,  which  afford  visitors  '  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  this  extenuve 
Cemetery,  if  sufficient  time  is  taken  for 
the  purpose.  Several  of  the  monuments, 
original  in  their  design,  are  very  beauti- 
jEol,  and  cannot  fail  to  attract  the  notice 
of  strangers.  Those  to  the  memory  of 
lliss  Cauda,  of  the  Indian  Princess, 
Pohumme,  and  the  "mad  poet,**  Mc 
Donald  Clark,  near  the  Sylvan  Water, 
are  admirable;  so  also  are  the  me- 
moriala  to  the  Pilots  and  to  the  Fire- 
men. 

.  Visitors,  by  keeping  the  main  avenue, 
called  2%e  Tbur,  as  indicated  by  guide- 
boartbt  will  obtun  the  best  general 
vieW  of  the  Cemetery,  and  will  be  able 
again  to  reach  the  entrance  without 
difficulty.  Unless  this  caution  be  ob- 
served, they  may  find  themselves  at  a 
loss  to  discover  their  way  out.  By 
paying  a  little  attention,  however,  to 
ihe  grounds  and  guide-boards,  they  will 
soon  be  able  to  take  otlier  avenues, 
many  of  which  pass  through  grounds  of 
peculiar  interest  and  beauty. 

Tli0  N«w  Toxk  Bay  Oematory 
is  reached  in  a  pleasant  sail  down  the 
harbor.    It  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 


rural  spots  in  all  the  beautlM  vicinage 
of  New  York. 

TIm  V.  8.  Nawy  Taid  is  across  the 
Bast  Biver  at  Brooklyn.  The  United 
SMtaJfrntalLgeeumyinihe  NavyTard, 
is  a  literary  institution,  formed  m  1888 
by  officers  of  the  navy  connected  with 
the  port  It  eontdns  a  sidendid  dollec- 
tion  of  onriodties,  and  mineralo^cal 
and  geological  cabmets,  with  numerous 
other  valuable  and  eurious  things 
worthv  the  inspection  of  the  visitor.  A 
JhyJDoek  has  been  constructed  here  at 
a  cost  of  about  $1,000,000.  On  the 
oppodte  side  of  the  WaUabout,  half  a 
mile  east  of  the  N«vy  Yard,  is  the 
ifan'iMirfgMtaf,  afine  building,  erect- 
ed on  a  eommuiding  situation,  and  sur- 
rounded by  upwards  of  80  acres  of  well- 
cultivatedground. 

At  tiie  Wallabont  were  stationed  the 
J«ney  and  other  prison-ships  of  the 
English  during  the  Bevdiutionary  war, 
in  which  it  if  iaid  11,800  American 
prisoners  peridied,  fr<nii  bad  air,  dose 
confinement,  and  ill-treatment.  In  1808, 
the  bones  of  the  sufferers,  wtdch  had 
been  washed  out  from  the  bank  where 
they  had  been  sli^htiy  buried,  were  col* 
lected,  and  deposited  in  18  coffins,  in- 
scribed with  the  names  of  the  18  origi- 
nal States,  and  placed  in  a  vault  be- 
neath a  wooden  building  erected  for  the 
purpose,  in  Hudson  avenue,  opposite  to 
Front  street,  near  the  Navy  Yard. 

Tbm  Atlantio  Dook|  about  a  mile 
below  the  South  Ferry,  Brooklyn,  is  a 
very  extensive  work,  and  worthy  the 
attention  of  strangers.  The  Hamilton 
Avenue  Ferry,  near  the  Battery,  lands 
its  passengers  close  by.  The  company 
was  incorporated  in  May,  1840,  with  a 
capital  of  tl,000,000.  The  badn  within 
the  piers  oontuns  42^  acres,  with  suffi- 
cient depth  of  water  for  the  largest 
ships.  The  piera  are  fUmished  with 
many  spacious  stone  warehouses. 

Jenwy  Oity,  N.  J.,  is  on  the  Hud- 
son, opposite  the  city  uf  New  York, 
with  which  it  is  connected  by  continual 
ferry^  from  foot  of  Gortiandt  street 
(fare,  four  cents).  In  1864,  the  popu- 
lation was  about  21,000.  Jersey  City 
is  the  New  York  terminus  of  the  Philor 


:  ; 


i'* 


0. 


r 


118 


HEW.  TOBX. 


City  tf  Braok^ 


s\ 


BrooklTiii  N.  T. 


delphia  and  New  York  and  Erie  Bul- 
road  routes,  and  of  the  Morris  Canal. 
It  is  also  the  berth  of  the  Cunard  line  of 
Atlantic  steamers. 

For  Newark  and  other  places  near  New 
Torlc,  upon  the  Philadelphia  routes,  see 
index.  For  suburban  villages  on  the 
Hudson,  see  route  from  Neir  Torlc  to 
Albany. 

CITT  OP  BSOOKLlTN. 

We  have  already  spoken  of  many  of 
the  objects  of  interest  in  Urooklyn,  in 
the  preceding  article  upon  New  York ; 
as  the  Navy  Yard,  Greenwood  Ceme- 
tery, the  Adantio  Dock,  the  neighbor* 
ing  Long  Idahd  villages  of  Astoria, 
Jamaica,  Flushing,  Rockaway  Beach, 
etc.  Beades  these  points,  there  is 
much  else  of  interest  across  the  river — 
many  fine  churches,  and  other  public 
buildings. 

Brooklyn  has  no  less  than  seventy- 
seven  churches,  of  various  denomina- 
tions. Among  the  most  cmrtly  and  im- 
posing are — 

ne  Churehofthe  H6ly  Trinity,  Clin- 
ton street,  Epis.  (Dr.  Lewis). 

Tht  Ohureh  of  the  PUgrima,  Congre- 
gational (Rev.  B.  S.  Storra). 

Church  of  the  Savior,  Pierpont  stfeet, 


cor.  of  Monroe,  Urst  Unitarian  Congre- 
gational (Rev.  F.  A.  Farley). 

Oraee  Ohureh,  Brooldyn  Heights, 
Epis.  (Dr.  Vinton).  ' 

Chriat  Church,  Clinton  street. 

Plymouth  Church,  Orange  street 
(Rev.  Henry  Ward  Beecher). 

I%ret  R^ormed  Dutch  Church,  Jero- 
leman  street  (Dr.  Dwight). 

Jl'««  Pretkifterian  Church,  Henry, 
near  Churk  street. 

Dutch  Reformtd  Church,  Pierpont  st. 
(Dr.  Bethune). 

8t.  Ann^t  Church,  Washington,  near 
Sands  street  (Dr.  Cutter). 

Second  Pretbyterian  Church,  Fulton 
street,  cor.  of  Clinton  (Dr.  Spencer). 

fiotola. — ^Amongthe  numerous  hotels 
of  Brooklyn  we  may  particularly  men- 
tion the  Matuum  Houee,  on  Hicks  st., 
Brooklyn  Heights;  the  GVO60  Hotel,  244 
Fulton  street. 

The  City  Hall  (Court  and  Fulton 
streets),  is  one  mile  distant  from  the 
ferry.  It  is  a  handsome  buildmg  of 
white  ioiarble,  from  the  Westchester 
quarries.  Its  length  is  162  feet,  and  lid 
height  to  the  top  of  the  cupola  is  168 
feet.    Cost,  $2,000,0p0. 

The  Poat  Office  is  opposite  the  City 
HalL 


HT'^ 


3  '  1  *; 


:W 


>i'  'y 


S\ 


uriaa  Oongre- 

yn   Heights, 

street, 
ange    street 

"J^reh,  Jero* 

nvA,  Henry, 

,  Fierpont  at. 

lington,  near 

■ureh,  Fulton 
Spencer), 
nerous  hotels 
cularly  men- 
on  Hicka  St., 
<be  Hotel,  244 

and  Falton 
Lnt  from  the 

buildmg  of 
Westchester 
:  feet,  and  lia 
cupola  is  1S3 

site  the  City 


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BraoklTii— Hndton  BlT«r. 


The  Brooklyn  Athenttum^  corner  of 
Atlantic  and  Olinton  etreets,  in  South 
Brooldyn,  is  a  fine  edifice  of  bricic,  with 
brown  etone  fadngi.  It  has  an  admira- 
ble library,  reading-rooms,  and  a  spa* 
cioos  lecture  or  concert  hall,  which  will 
seat  2,000  persons. 

The  Ljfeevmj  containing  the  City 
Library  and  a  good  lectnre-room,  is  at 
the  corner  of  Washington  and  Concord 
streets. 

Brooklyn,  which  now  comprehends 
also  the  city  of  Williamsburg,  &  In  pop- 
ulation (which  is  no  less  than  200,000) 
the  second  city  in  the  State  of  New 
York,  though  its  close  vicinage  to  the 
metropolis  absorbs  it,  and  destroys  its 
distinctiye  importance.  A  great  por- 
tion of  its  residents  do  business  in  New 
York,  and  live  in  Brooklyn  only  for  the 
c(H)Tenience  and  comfort  of  purer  air, 
more  quiet,  and  less  cost. 

The  city  is  in  many  parts  elegantly 
built,  and  the  bold  position  on  the 
Rights,  directly  looking  down  upon  the 
river  and  the  bay,  is  a  charming  site 
for  a  summer  abode.  Some  of  the  ave- 
nues of  Brooklyn*  are  wide,  and  deUght- 
fully  lined  with  cottage  residences. 

The  numerous  ferries  across  the  East 
liver  afford  pleasant  and  perpetual  ac- 
cess to  Brooklyn. 

Fulton  Ferrjf—¥Tom  Fulton  St.,  N.T., 
to  Fulton  St.,  Brooklyn,  every  five  min- 
utes in  the  day  time,  at  a  ure  of  two 
cents. 

South  Ferry— Trom  Whitehall  street, 
N.  Y.,  to  Atlantic  St.,  Brooklyn. 

Hamilton  i^eny— Whitehall  St.,  N.Y., 
to  Hamilton  avenue  and  Atlantic  Docks, 
Brooklyn. 

Catharine  JPerfy— Catharine  St.,  N.Y., 
to  Main  St.,  Brooklyn. 

Jackaon  Ferry — ^From  Gouvemeur  St., 
N.  Y.,  to  Jackson  St.,  Brooklyn. 

Wall  Street  Ferry— WaXL  St.,  N.  Y., 
to  Montague  st.,  Brooklyn. 

Roosevelt  Ferry — ^Roosevelt  St.,  N.Y., 
to  Bridge  St.,  Brooklyn. 

To  Fast  Brooklyn^  or  Williamsburg. 

Feck  Slip,  Grand  street,  and  Houston 
street,  N.  Y.,  every  ten  minutes. 


NBW  TOBK  TO  ALBANY  AND  TBOT. 

It  if  fortunate  for  the  gratification 
and  the  cultivation  of  the  public  taste, 
for  the  sublime  and  beantinil  in  natural 
scenery,  when  our  gi&at  highways  of 
travel  chance  to  lead  through  inch  won- 
drous  landscape,  as  does  our  present 
journey  np  the  Hudson  River,  Arom  New 
York  to  Albany.  Bven  to  the  wearied 
or  the  hurried  traveller  this  voyage  is 
ever  one  of  pleasure,  in  its  unique  and 
constantly  varying  attractions,  its  thou- 
sand associations,  legendary,  historical, 
poetical,  and  social. 

The  Hudson  received  its  name  In 
honor  of  Hendrick  Hudson,  a  Dutch  nav- 
igator, who  discovered  it  and  ascended 
its  waters  for  the  first  time,  in  1607,  in 
his  good  barque,  the  Half-Mpon.  It  is 
also  known  as  the  North  River,  which 
name  was  given  to  it  by  the  original 
Dutch  coloidsts,  to  distinguish  it  from 
the  South  (Zuyd),  as  they  cnlled  the 
neighboring  fioods  of  the  Delaware. 
Its  source  u  in  the  mouutidn  region  of 
the  Adirondack,  in  the  upper  portions  of 
New  York,  whence  it  flows  in  two  small 
streams,  the  one  from  Hamilton,  and 
the  other  from  Essex  County.  These 
waters,  after  a  journey  of  40  miles,  unite 
in  Warren  County.  The  course  of  the 
Hudson  varies  from  south  by  east  to 
east  for  some  distance,  but  at  length 
drops  into  a  straight  line,  and  continues 
thus,  nearly  southward,  until  it  falls 
into  the  Bay  of  New  York.  Its  entire 
extent  is  about  800  mil^s ;  its  navigable 
length,  from  the  sea  to  Albany,  is  half 
that  distance.  Its  breadth,  near  the 
head  of  steamboat  navigation,  varies 
from  800  to  900  y^rds ;  and,  at  the  Tap- 

Bin  Bay,  20  miles  above  the  city  of 
ew  York,  it  widens  to  the  extent  of 
from  four  to  five  miles.  Ships  of  the 
first  class  may  ascend  to  Hudson,  a  dis- 
tance of  11*7  miles,  and  small  sailing 
craft  may  reach  thehead  of  tide  water 
(166  miles),  at  troy.  The  number  of 
stMunboats  and  other  vessels  upon  the 
river  may  be  counted  by  thousands. 

To  the  Hudson  belongs  the  honor, 
not  only  of  possestnng  the  finest  river 
steamers  in  the  world,  but  of  homing 


■i  ■' 


ISO 


NSW  TOBX. 


Ballwmjr  and  BtcunbMt  BontM  np  th«  Hadfon. 


AorfM  upon  itt  waUrt  the  Hr$t  tteamboat 
whieh  tver  footed,*  when  Robert  Fulton 
Moended  the  rivenin  the  dermont,  in 
1807,  exactly  two  centuries  after  the 
flnt  Toyege  of  Hendriok  Hudson  hi  the 
Bslf-Moon. 

Every  possible  ftoUity  hi  now  at  oom« 
nand  for  the  passage  of  the  Hudson, 
either  by  steamer  or  by  railway,  morn- 
ing, noon,  and  night  The  commercial 
traTeller,  thinldng  more  of  his  destina> 
tion  than  of  Uie  pleasures  by  the  way, 
will  take  the  railroad  route,  while  the 
pleasure-seeking  tourint,  in  queiit  of  the 
picturesque,  and  with  tiui«  to  ei\joy  it, 
will  assuredly  go  by  water: 

BAILWAT  BOUTS. 
The  journey  by  the  Hudson  River 
Railway,  144  miles,  to  Albany,  is  a 
poem  in  prose.  The  road  lies  on  the 
esstem  bank  of  the  liver,  kissing  its 
waters  continually,  and  ever  and  anon 
crossing  wide  bays  and  the  mouths  of 
tributary  streams.  Incredible  difficulties 
have  been  surmounted  in  its  mountain, 
rock,  and  water  passage,  and  all  so 
•uccessfuUy  and  so  thoroughly,  that  it  is 
one  of  the  securest  ndlway  routes  in 
the  world.  With  all  its  immense  busi- 
ness, its  history  is  hapi^y  firee  from 
any  considerable  record  of  collision  or 
accident  whatever.  This  is  owing  as 
much  to  the  vigilant  management,  and 
the  admirable  police,  as  to  the  substan- 
tial nature  of  the  road.  Flag-men  are 
io  stationed  along  the  entire  line,  at 
intervals  of  a  mile,  and  at  curves  and 

*  Not  taking  into  the  acoount  the  variona 
prav'OQS  ^>proxiinations  to  this  great  result,  as 
the  unsuooMsAil  attempt  in  Ennand  (1787)  by 
Jonathan  HuIIb;  that  of  Mr.  Miller,  of  I>als- 
wlnton.  in  Domfrieahire,  1776;  another  in 
1786 ;  the  venture  Jn  1794,  of  the  Earl  of  Stan- 
hope ;  Mr.  Heniy  Bell's  model,  made  in  1800, 
for  Lord  Viaooont  Melville,  then  at  the  head 
of  the  Board  of  Admiralty :  and  the  somewhat 
more  successflil  trial,  in  loOl,  of  Mr.  Syming- 
ton. This  gentleman  oonstmcted  a  steam- 
vessel  on  the  Forth  and  Clyde  Oanal,  which 
went,  with  ease,  at  the  rate  of  four  miles  an 
hour;  bat  the  agitation  prodnoed  by  it  was  so 
great  that  it  was  feared  the  banks  of  the  canal 
would  be  ii^ared,  and  the  idea  was^  therefore, 
abandoned.  To  Bobert  Fulton,  however,  be- 
longs, without  any  controversy,  the  honor  of 
having  first  applied  steam  navigation  to  any 
practical  and  nseftil  purpose. 


acclivities,  as  to  secure  unbroken  signal 
communication  from  one  end  to  the 
other. 

Trains  leave  Ghambers  street  and 
College  FUce  almost  hourly.  Fare, 
usually,  $8.    Time,  about  five  hours. 

STATIONS. 

( Jbr  dteriptUm  </  ptaet  atut  temu,  m« 
SUomboai  BotiUJbttowtitff.) 

Chambers  street.  New  York ;  Thirty- 
first  street,  New  York;  Manhattan,  8 
miles  from  New  York ;  Yonkers,  17 ; 
Dobb's  Ferry,  22  (Feiry  to  Piermont, 
Erie  Railway);  Tarry  Town,  27;  Sing 
ffing,  82;  Pkkkskill,  48;  Qarrison^s, 
61  ^team  Fen^  to  West  Point  and  Coz- 
sens'  Hotel) ;  Cold  Spring,  64 ;  FishkiU, 
60  (will  be  the  junction  «f  Providence, 
Hartford,  and  Fishklll  Railroad,  Steam 
Ferry  to  Newburgh,  terminus  of  New- 
burgh  Branch  ofErie  Railway);  New 
Hamburgh,  66 ;  Pouohkkkpsix,  76 
(Half-way  and  refreshment  station); 
Hyde  Park,  81;  Staatsburg,  86 ;  Rhine- 
beck,  91 ;  Barrytown,  Tivoli,  100 ;  Ger- 
mantown,  106;  Oakbill,  110  (Ferry  to 
Gatskill  village,  route,  to  Catskill  Moun- 
tains); HuDSOH,  116  (Railway  route  to 
Boston,  via  Hudson  and  Berkshire 
road);  Stockport,  120 ;  Coxsuckie,  126; 
Stuyve8ant,126 ;  Sohodack,  188 ;  Castle- 
ton,  186 ;  East  Albany,  144  (Ferry  to 
Albany) ;  Troy,  162  miles. 

STEAMBOAT  BOUTE. 

If  the  traveller  accompany  us  up  the 
Hudson,  he  will  take  passage  in  one  of 
the  noble  steamers  (very  fittingly  called 
floating  palaces),  which  leave  New  York 
every  morning  and  night. 

The  size  and  beauty  of  the  boats,  and 
the  conveniences,  comfort,  and  luxury 
of  all  their  appointments,  will  be  matter 
for  pleasant  wonder  and  thought,  even 
to  those  most  accustomed  to  them, 
whenever  a  moment  can  be  stolen  from 
the  endless  attractions  of  the  way. 

We  start  as  the  morning  sun  is  failing 
upon  the  thousand  sail  which  fill  the 
grand  Bay  of  New  York ;  but  scarcely 
have  our  eyes  taken  in  half  the  beauties 
of  this  superb  panorama — the  roofs,  ana 
spires,  and  domes  of  the  great  motrop- 


tken  signal 
md  to  the 

Btreet  and 
■ly.  Fare, 
re  houn. 


rk;  Thlrty- 
ahattan,  8 
okera,  17 ; 
Piermont, 
I,  21 ;  Sing 
Garrison's, 
at  and  Coz- 
I;  FishkiU, 
*royidenoe, 
oad,  Steam 
iu  of  New- 
iray);  New 
:ep8IK,  16 
;  station) ; 
86;  Rbinc- 
,100;  Ger- 
)  (Ferry  to 
[skiU  Moun- 
route  to 
Jerksliire 
uckie,125; 
Castle- 
Ferry  to 


us  up  the 
in  one  of 
ly  called 
New  York 

boats,  and 
nd  luxury 
be  matter 
ight,  even 
to  them, 
bolen  from 
way. 

a  is  falling 
h  fiU  the 
scarcely 
e  beautivs 
roofs,  and 
,t  motrop- 


HaW  TOBK. 

Ths  HaasBa— Psllisdss '  ■BoU's  Vwiy. 


II 

ISl 


The  PaliaadM  on  fh«  Ilndaon. 


olia  on  one  side,  Jersey  CMty  upon  the 
opposite  shore,  the  fortresses  of  Gorer- 
nor*8  Island,  of  Bedloe*s,  of  Ellis's  Isl- 
ands, and  of  Fort  Hamilton ;  the  shores 
of  c4d  Long  Island,  and  the  villa  banks 
of  Staten  Island  beyond,  with  the  far- 
off  perspective  of  the  hill-bound  "Nar- 
rows"— ^before  we  must  turn  our  backs 
upon  it  all,  to  gaze  upon  the  yet  more 
charming  scenes  which  are  presented 
to  us  as  our  steamer  turns  its  prow 
northward. 

Along  we  sul,  past  the  streets  jand 
wharves  of  the  city,  which  seem  inter- 
minable in  succession,  but  our  eyes  fidl 
upon  the  wooded  shores  at  last,  upon  the 
elegant  country  villas  peeping  out  f^m 
among  the  trees  on  the  one  hand,  and 
the  tall  clifib  of  the  far-reachbig  Pali- 
sades on  the  other.  The  wilderness  of 
brick  and  stone  is  behind  us  and  for- 
gotten, in  the  presence  of  green  fields 
and  rustling  woods.  Even  the  subur- 
ban charms  of  Hoboken,  and  the  preci- 
pices of  Weehawken,  with  its  grave  and 
memories  of  the  unfortunate  Hamilton, 
give  place,  in  our  esteem,  to  the  more 
rural  landscape  upon  which  we  now 

6 


enter.  Let  us  peep  as  closely  as  our 
rapid  flight  may  permit  at  each  passr 
ing  villi^se,  city,  ailkd  ioene.  Ffanil 
come 

TIm  PaUMdMb  These  grand  pre- 
oiidces,  rising  to  the  height  of  600  feet, 
follow,  in  u^roken  line,  as  fiir  as  that 
great  bay  of  the  river  called  the  Tappaa 
Sea,  a  dutanee  of  20  miles.  The  rook 
is  trap,  columnar  in  formation,  some* 
thing  after  the  fkshion  of  the  famous 
Giant's  Oanseway  and  of  FIngal's  Oave  in 
Ireland.  They  lend  great  beauty  to  the 
picture  as  we  start  upon  our  journey, 
and  to  all  the  pictures  of  the  river, 
bto  which  they  come. 

BnlVi  F«ny,  six  miles  from  the 
city,.,  now  lies  upon  our  left.  It  is  ft 
favorite  summer  resort  and  reddence 
of  the  people  of  New  York,  tn  the 
hot  months,  the  ferry  boats,  continually 
plying  thither,  at  a  fare  of  only  12^ 
cents,  are  ever  well  fireighted  with 
merry  passengers. 

Bloomiagdala,  a  suburban  village  five 
miles  from  the  CSty  Hall  is  now  upon  our 
right.  The  Orphan  Asylum  here,  with 
its  emerald  lawns,  slofdng  down  to  the 


Ifltf 


Tk«  HadaoD—Vatt  WMklaiton— T«ak«ni 


quiet  watort.  is  »  pl—ml  frfotura  for 
iMfth  tire  ana  heart. 
-  Ten  Itm,  tea  oiUm  vp  the  rlTer, 
and  oppoaite  160th  atieet,  New  York, 
now  eaOi  us  back  again  to  the  weatem 
ahore.  It  erowna  the  Mij  brewe  of  the 
Paliatdea.  Bone  Intereatingmemorlea 
of  the  daya  of  the  ^kmerioan  BeTolutloB 
are  awakened  here.  The  anzkNia  thongbta 
of  Waihington  and  hla  genenJa  tamed 
to  thiapohitki  that  eTentfid  period.  A 
fortlflofk^on  here  atood  upon  the  heighti, 
which  waa  called  Mount  Oonatltatton, 
and  here  It  was  attempted,  by  the  ex- 
preaa  eomm^nd  of  Oongren,  to  obitruct 
the  narigation  of  the  river  by  eyerr 
art,  and  at  whateTeir  ezpenee,  *^aa  weU 
to  prevent  the  regreaa  of  the  enemVa 
frigatea  lately  gone  up  aa  to  hinder 
them  from  reoel?ing  succors."  A  large 
foroe  of  Americans,  in  mtreatiog  firom 
Fort  Lee,  were  oyerpowned,  and  either 
slain  or  taken  prisonera  by  a  greatly 
auperior  body  of  Hessian  troope. 
Fort  WaahinftoB,  another  spot  of 

S  historical  intereat,  lies  nearly  op* 
e  to  Fort  Lee,  and,  like  that  local- 
,  eminds  us  of  the  most  trying  hours 
of  the  trying  times  in  Ameman  story. 
It  fell  into  the  handa  of  the  enemy, 
KoTcmber  16th,  1*776,  and  the  garrison 
of  8000  men  became  prisonera  of  war. 
Two  days  after,  Kovembw  18th,  Lord 
Oomwauis,  with  6,000  men,  crossed  the 
river,  at  Dobb's  Ferry,  and  attacked 
Fort  Lee.  The  garrison  there,  then 
commanded  by  General  Oreene,  made  a 
hasty  retreat  to  the  encampment  of  the 
main  army,  under  Washington,  five 
miles' back,  at  Haokensack.  All  the 
baggage  and  stores  fell  into  the  hands/ 
of  the  enemy.  Had  the  English  general 
followed  up  his  successes  at  this  period, 
with  proper  celerity  and  energy,*^  he 
would  ttiost  likely  have  effectuallyorip- 

?»led  the  American  army.  Fort  Waui- 
ngton  is  situateil  upon  the  highest  part 
of  Manhattan  Island,  between  ISlst 
and  186th  streets,  New  Tork.  It  ia 
between  10  and  11  miles  from  the  Oity 
HaU.  The  fort  was  a  strong  earthwork 
of  hrregnlar  formi,  covermg  several 
aorea.  Some  20  heavy  cannons,  be- 
ddea  smaller  arms,  bristled  upon  its 


walla,  though  ila  strength  lay  ehieflv  hi 
itapoaition.  A  flaMtag  now  rises  ^rom 
the  oentre  of  the  fort,  strongly  arreet- 
Ing  the  eye  of  the  toorlat  in  his  pasaago 
up  the  river.  The  masts  whleh  lift  the 
telegrafh  wirea  over  the  Hudson,  teat 
(on  the  eaatem  shore)  on  a  promontoryi 
called  Jeflhry'a  Hook,  Jnst  below  Fort 
Waahington.  A  redoubt  waa  con- 
structed here,  as  a  covering  to  the 
ekttaam-dt'Mat  In  the  ohannai  ThO 
banka  of  tms  work  are  atlU  phdnly  to 
be  seen.  Above  Fort  Washington,  and 
sUll  upon  the  eastern  side  of  we  river, 
was  Fort  IVyon.  This  rite  now  lies  bo^i 
tween  196th  and  IMth  atreeta,  New 
Tork.  Not  far  beyond,  la  the  northern 
boundary  of  Manhattan  Island— the 
little  waters,  fiunous  in  history  and 
story,  aa  Spnyten  Duyvel  Greek  (^ito' 
the  Devil).  Hard  by  (Slfth  street) 
waa  a  redoubt  of  two  guns  called  Gock 
Hill  Fort;  and  upon  Tetard's  Hill^x 
across  the  creek,  was  Fort  Independ* 
ence,  a  square  redoubt  with  bartions. 

There  was  still  another  military  work 
here,  strengthened  by  the  British  In 
1*781,  and  named,  Fort  Prince.    Tho\ 
upper  end  of  the  Island  of  New  Tork,-' 
where  we  have  lingered  so  long,  is  rich 
in  scenes  and  memoriee  of  hiterest ;  and 
the  beautifhl  landscape  is  yet  embel- 
lished by  abundant  tracea  of  all  itt ' 
ancient  history.  .  '^ 

Tonkan,  17  milea  np  the  river,  Is 
an  ancient  settlement  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Neperan,  or  Saw-Mill  Uver.  Since 
the  openine  of  the  railway,  it  haa  be- 
come a  fiuAionable  suburban  town  of 
New  Tork,  as  the  short  distance  thence 
permits  jdeasant,  and  speedy,  and  cheap 
transport  by  land  or  water. 

Tonkera  was  the  home  of  the  once 
famous  family  of  the  Fhi^ppses,  of 
which  was  Mwrj  FhilUppse,  the  flrst4ove 
of  General  Washington.  The  family- 
exercised  manorial  mle  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, and  their  ancient  mansion  is 
still  to  be  seen. 

East  of  the  manor-house  of  the 
FhiUippses,  Is  Locust  Hill,  where  the 
American  troops  were  encamped,  in 
1781.  Near  the  village  is  the  spot 
where  Colonel  Qist  was  attacked  (1778) 


t 


mW  TOSK. 


128 


^  f oBthlU— HmUh»— Oebb'ft  Vcny— IrrlagtM  aad  Suajnld*— Plarmoat 


liUflyla 
•M<rom 
f  •rtMl- 


inontoryr 
low  Port 
t»  eon* 
r  to  tho 
mL  Tte 
tlalnljto 
rton,  and 
iherlTtr, 

«ti,  Nov 
BorttMrn 
and— 4he 
tory  Mid 
«k  (Bpito 
h  itreet) 
JlcdCook 
rd*B  HUl, 
[ndepend> 

MtiOM. 

itMXj  work 
British  in 
^oe.  Tb« 
ew  Tork, 
ig,  is  rich 
ireit;  and 
et  ombel- 
»f  all  Ita 

I  river,  ii 
mouth  of 
it.  Since 
has  be< 
town  of 
De  thenoe 
id  eheap 

Ithe  once 


ppses, 


of 


[fiMt40Te 
Le  family 
)e  neigh- 
ion  is 

of  the 

bere  the 

aped,  in 

Ithe  spot 


b  J  a  eombined  t/ket  under  Tarieton  and 
others.    In  1777,  a  naval  action  oo> 
onrred  in  front  of  Tonkers,  between  th«^ 
AaMrioan  gun«boats  and  the  British 
frbntes,  Rms  and  Phoenix. 

lir.  Frederio  Oosiens,  the  writer, 
resides  at  Tonkers,  and  some  pleasant 
reminisoenoes  of  his  home  may  be 
found  In  his  genial  "Bparrowgrass" 
papers. 

Amthill,  the  sumptuous  abode  of  Mr. 
Bdwin  Forrest,  the  celebrated  tragedian, 
is  in  this  vicinity,  its  walls  and  towers 
jdeasingly  visible  from  the  river.  Mr. 
Forres^  we  believe,  no  longer  occupies 
the  '^Outle,**  and  has  recently  sold 
some  portion  of  the  estate. 

HMtiinfi,  three  miles  north  of  Ton- 
kers ,  is  a  thriving  little  village,  and  its 
fortunes  are  daily  improving  with  the 
fkvors  of  the  citizens  of  New  York,  who 
eagerly  seek  homes  amidst  its  jdeasant 
and  healthAil  phoes.  Some  of  the 
country  seats  fn  the  neighborhood — 
and  they  are  numerous— are  very  ele- 
gant and  luxurious  establishments. 

DobVa  Fecxy,  two  miles  vet  be- 
yond, and  still  upon  the  eastern  liank  of 
the  river,  is  an  ancient  settlement,  with 
a  new  leaven  of  metropoUtan  life,  like 
all  the  idacee  within  an  hour  or  two's 
Journey  ttma  New  Tork.  The  vilhige 
hM  a  pleasant  dr,  lying  along  the  river 
slope,  at  the  mouth  of  the.Wysquaqua 
Greek.  Its  name  is  that  of  an  old 
fiunily  which  once  possessed  the  region 
and  established  a  ferry.  We  are  led 
back  again  bere,  to  the  times  of  the 
Revolution,  and  espedally  to  that 
dramatic  einsode — some  of  the  scenes 
of  which  transpired  here  and  here- 
abouts-^the  story  of  Arnold  and  Andr^. 
Remidns  of  military  work  still  exist  at 
Dobb*s  Ferry. 

IrwiiigUm  and  **  SmuiTaido."  Irving- 
ton,  to  which  we  now  come,  still  on 
the  right  or  eastern  bank,  was  once 
called  Dearman,  and  it  was  expected 
to  grow  into  a  large  town,  as  an  outlet 
of  the  Great  Erie  Railway,  which 
touches  the  river  opposite,  at  Pier- 
mont;  but  the  Erie  travel  was  after- 
wards led  to  the  metropolis  throu^ 
another  teminua  at  Jersey  Oity,  and  so  | 


Irvington  Is  little  more  than  a*  railway 
station  to  this  day. 

Dearman  was  rechristened  Inrlnstoa 
in  honor  of  the  disttnguished  author, 
Washington  Irving,  whose  unique  littl« 
cottagu  of  BumiTBiDi  is  close  by  upon 
the  margin  of  the  river,  hidden  from 
the  eye  of  the  traveller  onlv  by  the 
dense  growth  of  the  surrounding  treee 
and  shrubbery. 

Ptamoot  is  on  the  left  or  western 
bank  of  the  widest  part  of  the  Hudson, 
called  the  Tappan  Bay  or  Sea,  in  the 
heart  of  which  we  are  now  saiUng.  It 
was  bom  of,  and  has  grown  up  from, 
the  business  of  the  ^e  Railway,  of 
which  it  is  a  terminus,  and  was  once 
the  only  eastern  terminu4  the  route  of 
the  road  having  originally  i^een  entirely 
continued,  as  it  is  now  in  part,  thence 
down  the  Hudson  to  New  York.  The 
river  here  is  three  miles  in  width,  and 
the  shores,  particularly  upon  the  west, 
are  so  varied  and  bold,as  to  present  most 
striking  and  attractive  pictures.  Pier- 
mont,  rising  ft^m  the  water's  edge  to 
the  villa-crowned  summits  of  lofty  hiUs, 
and  with  its  grand  railwa/ider  reaching 
out  a  mile  or  more  into  the  river,  is  not 
one  of  the  least  pleasing  fieatixres  of  the 
scenery  of  the  Tappan  Bay. 

Mr.  Lewis  Oaylord  Olark,  editor  of  the 
"  Knickerbocker  Magasine,**  lives  upon 
the  eminence  here,  in  a  little  house, 
which  he  calls  '*  GsnAR  Hiu.  Cottaok." 

Two  or  three  mUes  back  of  Piermont 
is  the  old  town  of  Tappan,  interesting 
as  having  been  one  of  the  chief  of 
Washington's  head-quarters  during  the 
Revolution ;  and  as  the  spot  also  where 
Migor  Andr6  was  imprisoned  and  ex- 
ecuted. The  home  of  the  commander- 
in-chief  and  the  jail  of  the  ill-fated 
officer  are  still  in  good  preservation, 
though  the  latter  house  has  been  some- 
what modified  in  its  interior  arrange- 
ments of  late  years,  to  suit  its  present 
occupancy  as  a  tavern,  under  the  style 
and  title  of  the  *"76  Stone  House.** 
The  old  Dutch  church,  in  which  AndrS 
was  tried,  stood  near  by,  but  it  was 
torn  down  in  1836,  and  a  new  structure 
reared  upon  its  site.  The  spot  where 
the  execution  took  idace  (October  2d, 


124 


NEW  TOBK. 


The  Hudson— Tarrytowa  and  Bleapy  Hollow— Sing  Sing. 


1780)  is  within  a  little  walk  of  the  old 
Stone  House,  in  whic^s  the  prisoner  was 
confined. 

Nyaok  is  the  next  village  above 
Fiermont,  and  upon  the  same  ride  of 
oie  river,  while  Tarrytown  lies  directly 
opposite  it,  and  is~connected  therewith, 
and  with  New  York,  by  a  steam  ferry. 
Beds  of  red  sandstone  were  once  indus- 
triously quarried  at  Nyack. 

Tixrytown  is  a  very  active,  prosper- 
ous little  place  on  the  eastern  bank  of 
the  Hudson.  It  has  many  attractions, 
historical,  pictorial,  and  sooiaL     Ele- 

fmt  villas,  chiefly  occupied  by  New 
ork  gentlemen,  have  gathered  thickly 
iround  it,  as  about  all  this  part  of  the 
river's  marge,  within  the  past  few  years ; 
among  thenif|i  Mr.  Irving's  homestead 
of  Sunnycdde,  at  Irvington,-  two  miles 
below,  and  a  mile  or  mire  distant,  in 
the  opp  Mite  direction,  is  the  quiet  little 
valley  of  Sleepy  Hollow,  which  he  has 
wreathed  with  such  a  garland  of  poetic 
remembrances  and  fancy,  through  his 
charming  legends  and  tales.  The 
visitor  at  Tarrytown  will  neglect  many 
things  before  he  denies  himself  the 
pleasure  of  a  stroll  to  Sleepy  Hollow, 
where  Diedrich  Knickerbocker  roamed 
and  meditated  in  days  gone  by ;  and  of 
a  walk  by  the  Pocantico,  and  across 
the  bridge,  over  which  Ichabod  Orane 
was  pursued  by  the  Headless  Horseman. 
The  scenes  are  all  there  still;  and  ao 
the  old  Dutch /Church,  to  which  the 
luckless  pedagogue  fled  for  sanctuary. 

During  the  Revolution,  Tarrytown 
witnessed  many  stormy  fights  between 
those  lawless  marauding  bands  of  both 
British  and  Americans,  known  as  Skin- 
ners and  Oow-boys.  The  ground  suited 
their  wants,  as  it  lay  between  the  en- 
campments of  the  two  armies,  and  was 
in  possession  of  neither.  It  was  upon  a 
spot,  now  in  the  heart  of  Tarrytowu, 
that  Major  Andr6  was  arrested,  while 
returning  to  the  British  lines,  after  a 
visit  to  General  Arnold.  A  Rmple 
monument— «n  obelisk  of  granite — ^now 
occupies  the  ground. 

Sing  Sing,  on  the  right  as  we  ascend, 
is  83  miles  from  the  city..  In  its  accliv- 
itous  topography,  upon  a  hill-slope  of 


200  feet,  it  makes  a  ffine  appearance 
from  the  water.  The  greatest  br^^dtb 
,of  the  Hudson,  nearly  four  miles,  is  i^t 
this  point.  Many  fine  country  seats 
crown  the  heights  of  this  pleasant  vil- 
lage. It  ia  distinguished  for  its  educa- 
tional establishments;  fw  its  vicinage 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Croton  river,  firom 
whence  the  city  of  New  York  derives 
its  abundant  supply  of  water ;  and  for 
being  the  seat  of  the  chielf  prison  of 
the  State.  ^ 

The  Croton  enters  the  Hudson  two 
miles  above  the  village,  where  its  artifi- 
cial passage  to  the  metropolis  is  begun. 
The  great  aqueduct  a&  this  point  is  espe- 
cially interesting,  being  carried  over  the 
Sing  Sing  Kill  by  an  arch  of  stone 
masonry  88  feet  between  the  abutments, 
and  100  feet  above  the  water.  The 
State  Prison,  which  no  visitor  will  fail 
to  see,  is  located  on  the  bank  of  the 
Hudson,  neariy  three  quarters  of  a  mile 
south  of  the  vUIage.  The  buildings  are 
large  structures,  erected  by  the  con- 
victs themselves,  with  .material  firom 
the  marble  and  limestone  quarries 
which  abound  here,  and  which  many  of 
them  are  continually  employed  in  work- 
ing. The  prisons  form  three  sides  of  a 
square.  The  main  edifice  is  484  feet 
long,  44  feet  wide,  and  fi  stories  high, 
with  cells  for  1,000  occupants,  869  of 
which  were  filled  in  1662.  The  female 
prisoners  are  lodged  in  a  fine  edifice, 
some  80  or  40  rods  east  of  the  male 
departments.  The  prisons  are  guarded 
by  sentinels,  instead  of  being  enclosed 
by  walls.  The  whole  area  covered  by 
the  establishment  is  ISO  acres  of 
ground.  The  railway  passes  through 
and  beneatb  the  prisons,  but  ttom  the 
river  they  are  all  seen  to  advantage. 
The  convicts  not  employed  in  working 
the  marble  quarries  are  engaged  in  the 
pursuit  of  various  mechanical  arts  and 
trades.  Sing  Sing  is  a  bustling  business 
town.  Its  population  over  8,000. 
Though  the  river  communication  with 
New  York  is  not  so  great  since  as  be- 
fore the  building  of  the  railroad,  way- 
steamboats  from  the  city  yet  touch  here 
daily. 

Verdiitege*!  Book,  opposite  ^g 


from 


)m 
Ivsintage. 
I  working 
kd  in  the 
larts  and 
1  bufflness 
8,000. 
lion  with 
Be  as  be- 
nd, way- 
iich  here 

ite  Sing 


mffiW  YOBK. 


126 


Booklaad  L«k«— Harer^traw— Yerplan  oVi  Point. 


Sing,  is  a  commanding  height,  with 
such  a  deceptiTe  appearance  from  the 
water  above  and  below  of  a  grand 
he&dland,  that  it  has  been  christened 
Point-no-Point.  Coming  near  it,  its 
promontory  look  entirely  disappears, 
and  it  prores  to  be  only,  as  we  once 
called  It  elsewhere,  a  topographical 
will-o'-the-wisp. 

'  Upon  this  mountain  summit  there  is  a 
charming  pellucid  water  called  Rook, 
land  Li^.  It  is  about  four  mUes  in 
circumference,  and  forms  the  source  of 
the  Hackensack  River.  Though  not 
more  than  a  mile  from  the  Hudson,  it 
is  yet  260  feet  above  it.  It  is  from 
this  crystal  lake  that  New  York  gets  its 
best  supplies  of  ice,  which  is  cut  into 
large  square  blocks.  These  blocks  are 
then  slid  down  to  the  level  of  the  river, 
and  when  the  winter  passes  they  are 
transported  to  the  city.  Every  voyager 
will  bestow  a  pleasant  thought  upon 
the  Rockland  Lake,  as  he  passes,  in  grat- 
itude for  the  cooling  beverages  it  gives 
him  in  the  hot  summer  months;  be  that 
beverage  julep,  cobbler,  cocktail,  or 
Oroton. 

Bavontniw  is  also  on  the  west  side 
of  the  river,  36  miles  up.  It  is  a  ple:!S- 
ant  and  prosperous  place,  of  miuch 
pictU4->esque  vioinag*^  Some  charming 
brooks,  upon  which  .artists  delight  to 
study,  come  into  the  Hudson  here.  We 
touch  now  again  upon  sacred  ground, 
as  we  reenter  amidst  the  scenes  of  our 
Revolutionary  history;  for  directly  oppo- 
site is  Verplanck's  Point,  and  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  is  the  famous  battle- 
ground of  Stony  Point. 

yerplaiiok>s  Point,  on  the  east  side 
of  the  Hudson,  is  the  spot  at  which 
Hendrick  Hudson's  ship,  the  Half-Moon, 
first  came  to  anchor,  after  leaving  the 
mouth  of  the  river.  Great .  was  the 
marvel  and  terror  of  the  astonished  na- 
tives at  that  extraordinary  event. 
"Filled  with  wonder,"  says  Lossiug, 
"they  came  flocking  to  the  ship  m 
boats,  but  their  curiosity  ended  in  a 
tragedy.  One  of  them,  overcome  by 
acquisitiveness,  crawled  up  the  rudder, 
entered  the  cabin  window,  and  stble  a 
pillow  aad  a  few  articles  of  wearing 


apparel.  The  mate  saw  the  thief  pulling 
his  bark  for  land,  and  shpt  at  and  killed 
him.  The  ship's  boat  was  sent  for  the 
stolen  articles,  and  when  one  of  the  na- 
tives, who  had  leaped  hito  the  water, 
caught  hold  of  the  side  of  the  shallop, 
his  hand  was  cut  off  by  a  sword,  and  he 
was  drowned.  This  was  the  first  blood 
shed  by  these  voyagers.  Intelligence 
of  it  spread  over  the  country,  and  the 
Indians  hated  the  whiteman  ever  after." 
The  creek  which  winds  through^»the 
marsh,  south  of  Verplanck's  Point,  as, 
afterwards,  the  peninsula  itself,  was  crJl- 
ed  Meahaghby  the  Indians.  StephenVan 
Gortlandt  purchased  it  of  them  in  1683, 
and  it  passed  from  his  possession  into 
that  of  his  son,  whose, only  daughter 
and  heiress  ma^JYi.td  Philip  Yerplanck, 
from  whom  its  present  name.  Topo* 
graphically,  Verplanck's  Point  may  ^ 
described  ns  a  peninsula,  gradually  ris- 
ing from  a  gentle  surface,  until  it  termi- 
nates in  the  river  !u  a  bold  bluff  of  from 
40  to  60  feet  elevation.  The  railway 
recedes  here  from  the  river-shore,  and 
takes  a  seemingly  inland  route  across 
the  neck  of  the  peninsula.  "Here," 
says  Mr.  Lossing,  in  his  ileld-Book, 
from  which  we  nave  already  quoted, 
"  during  the  memorable  season  of  land 
kind  town  speculation,  when  the  watei> 
lot  mania  emulated  that  of  the  tulip  and 
the  South  Sea  games,  a  large  village  was 
mapped  out,  and  one  or  two  fine  man- 
sions were  erected.  The  bubble  burst, 
and  many  fertile  acres  there,  where 
corn  and  potatoes  once  yielded  a  profit 
to  the  cultivator,  are  scarred  and 
made  barren  by  intersecting  streets,  not 
dle*populated  but  tm-populated,  save  by 
the  beetle  and  the  grasshopper." 

The  narrowness  of  the>river  between 
this  bluff  and  the  opposite  promontory 
of  Stony  Point,  makes  it  the  lower 
gateway  of  the  Hudson  Highlands,  and 
renders  it  easily  defensible  against  anv 
possible  hostile  force.  A  small  fortifi  • 
tion,  called  Fort  Fayette,  once  exi&<  : 
at  the  western  extremity  of  Verplanck's 
Point,  many  remains  of  which  are  yet  dis- 
tinctly visible.  This  fort,  and  that  of 
Stony  Point  opposite,  wei*e  taken  by  the 
English,  under  Sir  Henry  Glinton,  June 


126 


NEW  YOBK. 


The  Hndaon— Stonjr  Point— Peekddll. 


t 


11 


1,  1779.  The  garrisons  at  the  time 
consisted,  respectively^  of  only  70  and 
40  mep.  Sir  Henry  Gunton  immediately 
proceeded  to  strengthen  his  new  pos- 
sesdons,  while  Washington  was  medi- 
tating their  recapture,  as  the  passage 
which  they  controlled  was  important  to 
the  free  communication  between  the 
northern  and  southern  portions  of  his 
army.    We  must  now  look  across  to 

Stony  Fointr—The  old  lighthouse 
faer^  calls  this  scene  loudly  to  the  notice 
of  all  passers.  The  beacon  is  placed 
amidst  the  remains  of  the  ancient  fort, 
and  exactly  upon  the  former  site  of  the 
magazine.  As  we  have  said,  the  fort 
here,  together  with  that  upon  Yer- 
planck's  Point  <^po8ite,fell  into  the  hands 
of  the  enemy  on  the  1st  of  June,  1779. 
Despite  its  natural  defences,  and  the 
additional  strength  which  the  enemy  in- 
dustriously gave  it,  the  Americans  de- 
termined  to  regain  their  lost  possession. 
General  Wayne,  who  was  to  command 
the  proposed  assault,  is  reported  to 
have  said  to  Washington,  with  daring 
emphasis,  apropos  of  the  dangers  before 
him  in  this  perilous  venture :  "  General, 
m  storm  hell,  if  you  will  only  plan  it !" 
He  did  storm  Stony  Point  on  the  night 
of  July  16th,  1779,  and  next  day  he 
wrote  to  the  commander-in-chief  that 
the  fort  and  garrison  were  his !    It  was 


a  gallant  exploit,  and  we  wish  we  had 
the  opportunity  to  review  the  Whole 
story;  but  there  are  many  miles  yet 
between  us  and  Albany,  and  we  must 
move  on  to 

Feeladdll* — We  now  enter  Haver* 
straw  Bay,  the  second  of  the  great  ex- 
tensions of  the  Hudson,  and  the  com- 
mencement of  the  magnificent  scenery 
of  the  Highlands.  On  our  left  is  tbe 
rugged  front  of  the  Dunderburg  Moun- 
tain, at  whose  base  the  little  hamlA 
and  landing  of  Caldwell  are  nestled ;  on 
the  right,  the  village  of  Peekskill 
ascends  from  the  shore  to  the  lofty  hill 
summit,  and  before  us  is  the  narn^w 
passage  of  the  river,  around  the  point 
of  the  Dunderburg,.  the  grand  base  of 
Anthony's  Nose,  and  other  mountun 
cliffs  and  precipices.  Let  us  look  a 
moment,  before  we  pass  on,  at  Peeks- 
kill  and  its  memories.  «The  ^village  was 
named  after  John  Peek,  one  of  the 
early  Dutch  navigators,  who  misto^ 
the  creek  which  comes  into  the  river 
just  above  for  the  continuation  of  the 
Hudson  itself  (not  an  unreasonable  mis- 
take, so  uncertain  seems  its  direction  at 
this  highland  pass),  and  thus  thinking 
himself  at  the  end  of  his  journey,  ran 
his 'craft  ashore,  and  commenced  his 
settlement.  The  ^present  village  was 
first  settled  in  1764.'  Its  position  is  ex- 


A  View  0"  the  Hudson  Blver. 


SIIEW  TOBK.    , 


127 


,raii 


PMluklU-GaUweU— The  HigfaUnd*. 


oeedingly  piotoresqae.  A  ronmntio 
lirook  comes  down  a  deep  glen,  in  the 
centre  of  the  town,  as  it  descends  from 
/^e  elevated  {dateau  to  the  river,  disfig* 
ured  not  a  little  at  this  day  by  the 
houses  and  foundries  near  it. 

Noble  views  may  be  found  every 
where  here,  and  in  every  direction  of 
the  river  and  the  surrounding  country. 
From  Gallows  Hill  northward  ^so  called 
in  remembrance  of  the  execution  there 
^  a  spy  in  the  days  of  the  Revolution),  a 
'  jgrand  panorama  is  exposed.  Here,  to  the 
i^est,  overlooking  the  village,  the  river, 
ttnd  its  mountain  shores ;  there,  south- 
ward, hill  and  valley,  as  far  as  the  high 
grounds  of  ^arrytown  below;  and 
above,  the  Canopus  valley,  in  the 
shadow  of  the  Highland  precipices. 
The  division  of  the  American  army  un- 
der Putnam,  in  llYV,  was  encamoed 
<^ttpon  Gallows  HilL  Beneath  this  lorby 
'ground,  and  upon  the  banks  of  Canopus 
Greek,  is  Continental  Village,  which 
was  destroyed  by  General  Tryon  (Oct. 
9,  1*777),  together  with'  the  barracks, 
capable  of  accommodating  2,000  men, 
and  also  much  public  store  and  many 
cattle. 

The  Van  Oortlandt  House,  in  this  vi- 
cinage, is  an  object  of  interest,  as  the 
ancient  seat  of  an  ancient  family,  and 
as  the  temporary  residence  of  Washing- 
ton. Near  by 'is  a  venerable  church, 
erected  in  1767,  within  whose  grave- 
yard there  is  a  monument  to  the  memo- 
ry of  John  Paulding,  one  of  the  cap- 
tors of  Major  Andre. 

Within  the  village  is  another  home 
of  the  American  chieftain.  It  is  a 
dilapid(ited  wooden  affur,  occupied  of 
late  as  a  grocery,  and  known  as  the  old 
Birdsall  residence.  The  rooms  are  re- 
membered in  which  Washington  and 
Lafayette  used  to  sleep,  and  some  pieces 
of  furniture  which  have  been  there  for 
four-fifths  of  a  century  may  still  be 
seen.  Whitfield  once  preached  beneath 
this  decaying  but  honored  roof. 

A  pleasant  ride  from  Peekskill  is  to 
Lake  Mahopac,  a  fiishionable  summer 
resort  for  the  pleasure-seekers  of  New 
York.    See  Index. 

The  population  of  Peekskill  in  1854 


was  2,500.  It  is  48  miles  froM  the  city 
of  New  York,  by  rail.  y. 

0«]dw«U'B  T<jmdfag,  at  the  foot  of 
Dunderburg  Motmtain,  was  a  oalUng- 
place  for  the  river  steamers,  when  the 
chief  travel  was  by  water,  instead  of  by 
rail,  as  at  the  present  day.  The  pas- 
sengers for  Peekskill,  opposite,  were 
then  always  landed  at  Caldwell.  This 
spot  is  memorable  for  the  search  so 
seriously  and  actively  made  for  the  pi- 
rate treasure  which  the  famous  Captain 
Kidd  was  supposed  to  have  secreted  at 
the  bottom  of  the  river  here.-  Remains 
of  the  apparatus  used  for  this  purpose 
are  still  seen,  in  bold,  black  relief,  at 
the  Dunderburg  point,  as  the  boat 
rounds  it,  towards  the  Horse  Race. 
This  Quixotic  exploration  has  at  least 
proved  to  a  certainty  that  much  valua- 
ble treasure  now  lies  buried  here,  how- 
ever uncertain  the  matter  was  before  I 

The  Highland!.  This  grand  moun- 
tain group,  through  which  the  Hudson 
now  makes  its  way,  extends  from  north- 
east to  south-west,  over  an  area  of 
about  Id  by  25  miles.  The  landscape 
which  these  noble  heights  and  their 
picturesque  and  changeful  forms  pre- 
sent, IS  of  unrivalled  magnificence  and 
beauty,  whether  seen  from  their  rugged 
summits,  or  from  the  river  gorges. 

Thus  says  Theodore  Fay  of  these 
scenes  — 

"  Bf  wooded  blaff  we  steal,  by  leaning  lawn. 
By  palace,  Tillage,  cot,  a  sweet  sarpme 
At  every  turn  tne  vision  breaks  upon. 
Till  to  our  wondering  and  uplifted  eyes 
The  Highland  rocks  and  hills  in  solemn  gran- 
deur rise." 

"  Nor  clouds  in  heaven,  nor  billows  in  the  deep 
More  gracefbl  shapes  did  ever  heave  or  roll; 
Nor  came  such  pietnres  to  a  painter's  sleep, 
Nor  beamed  saui  visions  on  a  poet's  soulf 
The  pent-up  flood,  impatient  of  control. 
In  ages  past  here  broke  its  granite  bound. 
Then  to  the  sea  in  broad  meanders  stole. 
While  ponderous  ruin  strew'd  the  broken 

ground, 
And    these    gigantic  hills  fbr  ever  closed 

aroand.** 

This  powerful  river,  4uys  another  wri- 
ter, writhes  through  the  Highlands  in 
abrupt  curves,  ren^ding  one  when  the 
tide  runs  strongly  down,  of  Laocoon  in 
the  enlacing  folds  of  the  serpent.  The 
different   spuni   of   mountain   ranges 


liih 


•HHW  TOBK. 


The  Hndson— The  Hlghludc— W«8t  Point. 


which  meet  here  abut  flpon  the  river 
in  bold  precipices,  frota'  Ave  to  fifteen 
hundred  feet  from  the  water's  edge; 
the  foliage  hangs  to  them  from  base  to 
Bummit,  with  the  tenacity  and  bright 
terdure  of  moss ;  and  the  stream  below, 
deprived  of  the  slant  lights  which 
brighten  its  depths  elsewhere,  flows  on 
with  a  sombre  and  dark  green  shadow 
in  its  bosom,  as  if  frowning  at  the  nar- 
row gorge  into  which  its  broad-breasted 
waters  are  driven. 

Passing  ronnd  the  point  of  Dunder- 
burg  (or  Donderbarrack,  the  l%under 
Ohcanber)  we  enter  the  swift  channel 
called  the  Horse  Race.  On  oar  right, 
in  this'  wOd  and  narrow  gorge  of  the 
giant  hills,  are  the  rugged  flanks  of 
Anthony's  Nom,  bold  rocky  acclivi- 
ties which  rise  to  the  hei|;ht  of  1,128 
feet  above  the  water.  Two  miles  above 
is  the  Sugar  Loaf  mountain,  with  an 
elevation  of  806  feet.  Near  by,  and 
reaching  for  out  into  the  river,  is  a 
sandy  bluff,  on  which  Fort  Indepen- 
dence once  stood.  Further  on  is  Bev- 
eridge  Island,  and  in  the  extreme  dis- 
tance, Bear  Mountain.  Forts  Clinton 
and  Montgomery,  taken  by  the  British 
troops,  after  traversing  the  Dunderburg 
mountain,  are  in  this  vicinity ;  and  so, 
too,  a  little  lake  called  Skinnipink,  or 
Bloody  Pond,  where  a  disastrous  skir- 
mish occurred  on  the  eve  of  the  capture 
of  the  forts  and  the  consequent  opening 
to  the  enemy  of  the  passage  of  the 
Highlands.  On  this  (the  west)  side  of 
the  river  the  Battnrmilk  Falls  are 
seen  descending  over  inclined  ledges, 
a  distance  of  100  feet.  They  form  a 
pleasant  passage  in  the  river  landscape, 
though  in  themselves  they  are  not  es- 
pecially picturesque. 

In  the  heart  of  the  Highland  Pass 
and  ,  est  below  \  ^est  Point  on  the  west 
bank  is  Oozseus' — a  spacious  and  ele- 
gant summer  hotel,  vthich  comes  most 
charmingly  into  the  pictures  of  the 
vicinage.  It  inaccessible,  as  is  West 
Point  at  the  same  time,  from  the  rail- 
way on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river, 
by  a  stisam  ferry  from  Qanrlson**  Sta- 
'  tion,  between  Peekskill  be^ow  and 
Cold  Spring  above.    The  concourse  of 


sail  sometimes  wind-locked  in  the  an- 
gles of  this  mountain  pass,  is  a  W6n* 
derful  sight,  "  This  channel,''  says  Mr. 
Willis,  "  is  narrow  and  serpentine,  the 
breeze  bahiing,  and  nmall  room  to  beat ; 
but  the  little  craft  will  work  merrily 
and  well ;  and  dodging  about,  as  if  to 
escape  some  invisible  imp  in  the  air, 
they  gain  point  after  point,  till  at  last 
they  get  the  Donderbarrack  behindv 
them,  and  fall  once  more  into  the  regu-. 
lar  current  of  the  wind." 

Oonstitution  Island,  with  the  rocky 
plateau  of  West  Point,  now  bars  our 
view  of  the  upper  portion  of  the  High- 
land passage.  Bounding  it,  we  come 
into  that  wonderful  reach  of  the  riverj 
flanked  on  the  west  by  the  royal  cliiTs 
of  Gronest  and  Butter  Hill,  or  Storm 
King,  and  upon  the  east  by  the  jagged 
acclivities  of  Breakneck  and  Bull  Hill, 
with  the  pretty  village  of  Cold  Spring 
beneath.  From  the  heights  of  West 
Point  delicious  views  of  this  new  chap^ 
ter  of  the  river  beauties  may  be  ob- 
tained. Constitution  Island  was  called, 
prior  to  the  Revolution,  Martelaer's 
Bock.  It  was  fortified  together  with 
West  Point,  hard  by,  in  1775-6,  when 
Fort  Oonstitution  was  built,  the  re- 
mains of  wluch  still  exist.  Those  of 
t&e  magazine  especially  are  well  pre- 
served, on  the  highest  point,  near  the 
western  extremity  of  the  bluff.  From 
this  Island  to  West  Point  a  chain  was 
thrown  across  the  river  as  an  obstruc- 
tion to  the  enemy's  ships.  Some  links 
of  this  defence  are  to  be  seen  in  the 
neighborhood. 

west  Point,  both  from  the  unri- 
valled charms  of  its  scenery  and  from 
its  position  as  the  seat  of  our  most 
famous  military  school,  is  one  of  the 
most  attractive  spots  upon  the  Hudson. 
It  is  replete  with  interest,  too,  as  the 
centre  of  the  important  interests  and 
incidents  which  in  the  days  of  the  Revo- 
lution wove  such  a  web  of  story  and 
romance  about  all  this  portion  of  the 
beautiful  river. 

The  edifices  of  the  United  States 
Military  Academy,  in  full  viev  as  we 
approach,  occupy  a  noble  platefiu,  about 
a  mile  in  circtdt,  and  188  feet  above 


E'^'w 


lOI^  TOBK. 


i2fir 


Tho  Hlg^iUads— W«st  Point— The  BsTerlj  Hoom— Oroneat 


nver. 


unri- 

from 

most 

of  the 

udson. 

as  the 

ts  and 

Revo- 

ry  and 

of  the 

States 
as  we 
about 
above 


the  water;  and  grand  hills,  which  were 
fortified  in  the  war  time,  leaving  at  this 
day  romantic  ruins  to  embellish  the 
landscape,  rise  hundreds  of  feet  yet 
above.  It  was  the  same  bold  and 
varie^physical  aspect  of  this  spot  which 
now  delights  the  lover  of  nature's  won- 
ders, that  in  other  days  gave  it  its  grand 
value,  and  i'tn  memorable  fame  as  a  site 
of  military  operations  and  adhievements. 
The  visitor  will  delight  his  eye  at  all 
points,  whether  he  gaze  upon  the  su- 
perb panorama  of  the  river  as  he  sits 
upon  the  piazza  of  the  hotel  upon  the 
plateau,  or  whether  he  looks  upon  the 
scene  from  the  yet  loftier  eminence 
above,  crowned  by  the  ruins  of  ancient 
fortresses ;  or  whether  he  stroll  amidst 
the  interlacing  walks,  with  new  vistas 
of  beauty  and  fresh  memories  of  a  gal- 
lant gone-by  at  every  turn  and  step. 
When  the  remains  of  the  old  forts 
Putnam,  Clinton,  Webb  and  Wylly's 
have  been  seen,  together  with  the  little 
glen  below  the  Parade  Ground,  called 
*'  Kosciusko's  Garden,"  and  embellished 
with  an  obelisk  erected  to  the  honor  of 
the  gallant  Pole,  the  visitor  will  be 
ready  to  explore  the  edifices  of  the 
Academy  establishment,  and  the  many 
objects  of  interest  which  they  contain ; 
among  them,  Revolutionary  relics  and 
cannon  captured  in  the  war  with  Mex- 
ico. If  his  visit  be  in  the  months  of 
July  or  August,  the  pleasures  of  the 
place  will  be  agreeably  increased  by  the 
picturesque  scene  of  the  annual  en- 
campment, on  the  broad  terrace,  of  the 
Cadets,  and  by  the  daily  practice  of  the 
military  band.  If  he  can  gain  the 
entree  of  the  studio  of  the  distinguished 
painter  Weir,  who  resides  here,  as  Pro- 
fessor of  Drawing  in  the  Academy,  he 
will  be  fortunate. 

The  United  States  Military  Academy 
at  West  Point  was  established  by  Con- 
gress in  1802,  and  it  is  entirely  controlled 
and  supported  by  the  Grovernment. — 
The  educatioa  of  the  Cadets  is  gratui- 
tous, but  each  one  is  required  to  spend 
eight  years  in  the  public  service,  unless 
he  be  sooner  excused.  The  courae  of 
study  lasts  five  years,  and  embraces 
every  theme  required  for  a  thorough 


mastery  of  the  military  art.    Hba  grad* 
uates  number  more  than  8,000. 

West  Point,  in  the  Revolution,  wu 
the  great  key  of  the  river,  which 
Arnold,  then  in  comxnand  of  the  post, 
would  have  betrayed  into  the  possession 
of  the  enemy,  but  for  the  providential 
arrest  of  his  co-plotter,  Andr6,  at  Tar* 
rytown  below. 

The  Robinaoii  or  Bersrly  Bonae, 
occupied  by  Arnold  at  the  time  of  his 
meditated  treason,  at  which  he  received 
intelligence  of  the  arrest  of  Miy'or 
Andr6,  and  from  whence  he  made  his 
escape  to  the  British  vessel,  the  Vul- 
ture, lying  near  by  in  the  river,  Is  oa 
the  opposite  (east)  bank,  a  pleasant 
drive  of  four  or  five  miles  south  from 
Cold  Spring.  It  is  situated  upon  a  fer- 
tile meadow  at  the  foot  of  the  Sugar 
Loaf  Mountain — ^the  lofty  elevation  oir 
the  east,  which  proves  so  Protean  in 
form — ^now  a  bold  cone,  and  now  ft 
ridgy  line,  as  seen  from  below  or  from . 
above.  This  homestead  is  now  occu- 
pied by  Lieutenant  Thomas  Arden,  and 
is  called  "  Ardenia."  It  has  been  kept 
in  thorough  repair,  and  its  old  aspect 
has  been  always  religiously  preserved. 

Oroaest  casts  its  broad  evening 
shadow  upon  us  as  we  continue  our  voy- 
age up  from  West  Point.  This  is  one 
of  the  grandest  mountains  found  in  the 
Highland  group.  Its  heieht  is  1,428 
feet.  From  the  summit,  miich  may  be 
i-eadily  reached,  wonderftd  pictures  of 
far  and  near  are  exposed  to  view. 

The  poet,  George  P.  Morris,  has  hap- 
pily sung  the  beauties  of  these  bold 
cMs— 

**  Where  Hadaon's  wayes  o'er  silTery  sanda 
Wind  throuffh  the  liiUs  a&r, 
And  Cronest,  Bke  a  monarch  atanda, 
Crown'd  with  •  single  atart  '* 

The  tourist,  as  he  passes  this  romantic 
ground,  will  not  fail  to  recall  the  scenes 
and  incidents  of  Drake's  chariuing  story 
of  the  Culprit  Fay,  with  its  classic 
whispers  of  the  dainfj  Fairy  doings 
here. 

Batter  BiU,  or  Storm  B^,  as  Mr. 
N.  P.  Willis  has  re-named  it,  is  the  next 
mountain  crest,  and  the  last  of  the 
Highland  range  upon  the  west.    The 


180 


NXW  TORE. 


The  HadaottUCold  Spring  ud  •'  UndaieUff"— CkunwaU  mi  "  Idlewild  "—New  Wlndwr. 


jealooB  people  on  the  opposite  shore, 
Bay  that  Butter  Hill  is  Qoly  a  corruption 
of  But«-hilll  It  would,  though,  be  ir- 
reverent to  believe  in  this  derivation, 
for  the  Storm  King,  with  its  1,600  and 
more  feet  of  bold  clifT  and  crag,  is  not 
an  object  to  be  spoken,  or  thought, 
Bghtlyof.   ' 

Between  Cronest  and  Storm  King, 
(if  we  may  adopt  Mr.  Willis's  nomen- 
clature)  and  in  the  laps  of  both,  is  a 
lovely  valley,  replete  with  forest  and 
brook  beauties.  It  is  called  Tempo, 
and  win  one  day  be  a  Mecca  to  the 
natare>lovine  toiuists. 

"  Idlmoik^  the  residence  of  the  poet 
N.  P.  Willis,  is  hidden  from  view  now, 
only  by  the  fh>nt  of  Butter  Hill;  and 
were  it  not  for  the  forest  of  verdure 
around  it  we  might  descry  ^'Under- 
tliff,"  the  home  of  Gteorgd  P.  Morris, 
near  the  village  of  Gold  Spring,  across 
the  river  on  the  east. 

Oold  Spxioff  and  "UlbdaroUfl:"— 
Cold  Spring  is  one  of  the  most  pictur- 
esque of  the  villages  of  the  Hudson, 
whether  seen  from  the  water  or  from 
the  hills  behind,  or  in  detail  amidst  its 
little  streets  and  villa  homes.  It  is 
built  upon  a  steep  ascent,  and  behind  it 
is  the  massive  granite  crown  of  Bull 
Hill.  This  noble  mountain  overshadows 
the  beautiful  terrace  upon  -nrhich  the 
poet  Morris  has  lived  in  the  rural  seclu- 
eion  of  "  Underoiiff "  for  many  years. 
It  is  scarcely  possible  to  find  a  spot  of 
sweeter  natural  attractions  than  the  site 
of  Undercliff,  looking  over  thq  pretty 
village  to  the  castellated  hills  of  West 
Point,  across  the  blue  Hudson  to  old 
Cronest,  or  northward  beyond  the  New- 
burgh  Bav,  to  the  far  away  ranges  of 
the  Gatskllls. 

The  West  Point  Iron  Foundry,  which 
is  located  here,  supports  much  of  the 
population  and  business  of  the  village. 

Two  miles  below  are  the  Indian  Falls, 
a  romantic  cascade,  on  the  Indian 
Brook,  a  wild  rocky  stream  which  en- 
ters the  river  hereabouts. 

The  Beverly  House,  memorable  for 
its  associations  with  the  history  of  the 
treason  of  Arnold,  is  a  few  miles  below. 
See  previous  pages  for  further  mention 


of  this  locality.  The  population  of 
Cold  Spring  is  1 ,200.  Its  distance  from 
New  York,  64  miles. 

Beyond  Gold  Spring,  and  still  on  the 
east  bank  of  the  river,  the  Highland 
range  is  continued  in  the  jagged  preci- 

gces  of  the  Break  Neck,  and  Beacon 
ills,  in  height,  respectively,  1,187 
and  1,686  feet.  These  mountains  are 
among  the  most  commanding  features 
of  the  river  scenery.  As  we  leave  them 
to-  the  south  we  approach  PoUopel's 
Island,  and  enter  the  wide  Newburgh 
Bay,  with  the  villages  of  Cornwall,  New 
Windsor  and  Newburgh  upon  our  left, 
and  Fishkill  on  our  r^ht,  all  imposing* 
ly  disfdayed  ft«m  the  water. 

Ctornwall  Landing,  on  the  west 
bank,  comes  first  to  our  reach.  It  is  a 
rugged  and  picturesque  little  jdaoe.  (9n 
the  lofty  Highland  Terrace  back,  is 
Canterbury,  a  qiuet  village,  much  in 
favor  as  a  summer  reddence  by  the 
seekers  of  repose  and  rural  pleasure, 
rather  than  of  fashionable  display  and 
distraction. 

«ld]0wild,"  Mr.  Willis's  romantic 
home,  on  a  lofty  plateau  above  and- 
north  of  the  village,  is  the  chief  object 
of  interest.  A  wonderful  ravine,  full 
of  the  most  delightful  cascades,  with  its 
neighborhood  of  bill  side,  rock  and  for- 
est, occupies  one  part  of  the  domun, 
and  a  fertile  terrace  sweep,  upon  which 
his  cottage  stands,  fills  the  rest.  In  its 
multiplicity  of  charms,  it  is  a  retread 
which  a  ly  poet  might  be  content  to 
eirfoy. 

There  is  an  exten^ve  paper  manu- 
factory, under  the  conduct  of  Mr.  Gar- 
son,  just  back  9f  Idlewild,  in  the  out- 
of-the-way  little  village  of  Moodna.  The 
Moodna  Creek,  a  romantic  stream, 
comes  into  the  river  at  the  northern 
point  of  Idlewild. 

N«w  Windaor,  between  IdlewSd 
and  Newburgh,  and  once  the  rival  of  the 
latter,  is  a  straggling  hamlet,  of  no 
special  present  attraction;  though  it 
has  some  old  historical  m^norie^  of  in- 
terest. The  chief  camp  ground  of  the 
Revolutionary  army,  during  the  operas 
tions  on  the  Hudson,  lies  bat  k  of  it,  with 
memories  and  scenes  yet  remaining. 


and 
bjcot 

fiiU 
ithits 
idfor- 
omain, 
which 
In  its 
etrea* 
ent  to 

manu- 
Gar- 

e  out- 
The 


no 
Igh  it 

lof  in- 
l>f  the 


MlfiW  TOSK. 


lai 


N«w  Wladaor  and  "  Oedu  Lawn  "— Newborgh. 


The  Higblutds— GoniwaQ  Landing. 


of  the  residence  of  Greene  and  Knox, 
and  other  distinguished  generals  of  the 
period ;  of  the  site  of  the  memorable 
old  building  which  was  known  as  the 
Temple,  and  was  erected  at  the  com- 
mand of  Washington  for  a  chapel  for 
the  army;  a  hall  for  the  Tree  mason 
fraternity,  which  existed  among  the 
officers,  and  for  general  public  assem- 
blies. This  structure  wss  baptizod  the 
"  Temple  of  VirMic,"  at  the  time  of  its 
erection,  a  name  v/hich  it  lost  even  in 
the  orgies  of  the  dedicatory  festiral ! 

On  the  shore  of  Plum  Point,  the  ele- 
gant promontoried  estate  of  Philip  A. 
Yerp^ck,  Esq.,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Moodna  creek  and  the  river,  are  pre- 
served some  cmious  debris  of  old  mili- 
tary defences,  and  of  buildings  long 
before  the  days  of  the  Revolution. 

Washington  established  his  head- 
quarters at  New  Windsor,  first  on  June 
28d,  1119,  and  again  in  1780.  His  re- 
sidence, a  plain  Dutch  house,  has  long 
since  passed  away. 

"Oadur  Lawn.**  Joel  T.  Headley, 
the  distinguished  author,  possesses  a 
Aharming  river  estate,  which  is  called 


*'  Oedar  Lawn,**  between  the  villages  of 
New  Windsor  and  Newburgh. 

Asher  B.  Durand,  the  eminent  land- 
scape painter,  at  one  time  possessed 
and  occupied  an  elegant  country  seat  in 
the  same  neighborhood. 

N«wbnzfh|  with  its  population  of 
12,000,  and  its  social  and  topographical 
attractions,  is  one  of  the  largest  and 
most  delightful  towns  on  the  Hudson. 
Rising  as  it  does,  rather  precipitously 
from  the  water  to  an  elevation  of  800 
feet,  it  p^sents  a  very  imposing  front 
to  the  voyager.  The  higher  grounds 
are  occupied  by  beautiful  residences, 
and  the  luxurious  villas  of  gentlemen 
retired  from  metropolitan  life.  There 
are  a  dozen  churches,  and  half-a-dozen 
banks  here,  and  nearly  as  many  news- 
papers. Newburgh  is  the  eastern  ter^ 
minus  of  a  branch  of  the  Erie  Railway, 
connecting  daily  with  that  great  thor- 
oughfare at  Chester,  N.  T.  It  is  united 
by  steam  ferry  to  FishkiU,  on  the  op- 
posite shore,,  and  here  is  its  station  on 
the  Hudson  River,  and  Hartford,  Provi- 
dence, and  FishkiU  Rail  oads.  It  has 
Uurge  manufactories  of  various  kinds,and 


182 


ITEW  Tomt. 


The  Hndson— Newbnrgh— Fishklll— Foughkeepde— Hyde  Park  ud  **  PlMentUk" 


an  eztensiTe  trade  in  farm  and  dairy 

{>roduotB.  The  liotne  of  the  lamented 
andscape  gardener  and  horticultural 
writer,  A.  J.  Downing,  was  here.  The 
Tillage,  too,  is  honored  by  the  residence 
of  u.  K.  Brown,  the  eminent  sculptor. 

Newburgh  was  the  theatre  of  many 
interesting  events  in  the  war  of  the  Re- 
volution. It  was  the  site  of  one  of 
Washington's  chief  head-quarters,  and 
the  house  in  which  he  lived,  is  now  the 
principal  boast  of  the  town.  It  oc- 
cupies a  bold  position,  overlooking  the 
great  pass  of  the  Highlands.  It  was 
here  that  the  Revolutionary  army  was 
finally  disbanded  at  the  close  of  the 
war,  June  28d,  1788. 

Hotels.  The  Powhatan  is  an  elegant 
Btmimer  house,  picturesqnelj^  located  in 
the  upper  and  more  rural  part  of  the 
village.  In  the  business  centre  is  the 
Orange  Hotel,  a  large  and  well-ordered 
establishment  of  old  fame.  Near  the 
river  landings,  is  the  United  States, 
an  unexceptionable  and  comfortable 
place. 

FishldU,  on  the  eastern  shore,  op- 
posite Newburgh,  is,  like  that  village  and 
all  the  region  round,  opulent  in  natural 
bea^ties,  and  prolific  in  elegant  re- 
sidences of  retired  city  gentlemen.  It 
is  a  small  place,  with  a  population,  in 
1864,  of  1,600.  It  lies  in  the  lap  of 
a  Idvely  fertile  plain,  which  reaches  far 
back  to  the  base  of  a  bold  mountain 
range.  It  is,  like  all  the  neighborhood, 
replete  with  memories  of  Revolutionary 
and  Ante-revolutionary  interest.  A 
portion  of  the  Continental  army  was 
encamped  here.  The  building  occupied 
as  barracks  was  the  property  of  a  Mr. 
Wharton,  and  has  thence  been  since 
known  as  the  Wharton  House.  It  is, 
like  most  of  the  buildings  of  the  period, 
a  pltun,  Dutch,  wooden  construction. 
It  may  be  found  about  half  a  mile  south 
of  the  village. 

Fishkill  is  the  scene  of  many  of  the 
incidents  in  Cooper's  novel  of  The  Spy ; 
a  Tale  of  the  Neutral  Oround.  Enoch 
Crosby,  who  was  supposed  to  be  the 
actual  character  represented  in  Mr. 
Cooper's  tale,  as  Harvey  Birch,  was 
subjected  to  a  mook  trial  before  the 


Committee  of  Safety  in  the  Wharton^ 
House,  mentioned  above. 

Two  miles  north-east  of  Fishkill  land- 
ing, is  the  Yerplanck  House,  interesting 
as  having  once  been  the  head-quarters 
of  the  Baron  Steuben,  and  the  place 
in  which  the  famous  Society  of  the  Cin- 
cinntUi  was  organized,  1788. 

Fishkill  is  to  be  connected  with  Bos- 
ton by  the  Fishkill,  Hartford,  and  Pro- 
vidence Railway. 

Low  Foiitt,  three  miles  above  Fish 
kill  landing,  is  a  small  river  hamlet. 

New  Hamburg  comes  next,  near  the 
mouth  of  Wappinger's  Creek,  and  »  i 
little  north  is  the  village  of  Marlbo- 
rough, with  Bamegat,  famous  for  its 
lime-kilns,  two  miles  yet  beyond. 

Pougbkeepds  is  76  miles  from  New 
Tork,  and  thus  the  half  way  station  on 
the  river  railroad.  It  is  a  pleasant  city, 
and  the  largest  place  between  New 
Tork  and  Albany.  Its  population  is 
some  16,000.  It  contains  about  six-, 
teen  churches,  four  banks,  and  three  or 
four  newspapers.  It  has  a  variety  oi 
manufactories ;  and  the  rich  agricultu- 
ral region  behind  it  makes  it  the  dep6t 
of  a  busy  trade. 

College  Hill,  the  site  of  the  Collegiate 
Institute,  half  a  mile  north-east,  is  a 
commandinff  elevation,  overlooking  the 
river  and  toe  region  around. 

Ponghkeepsie  was  founded  by  the 
Dutch  more  than  160  years  ago.  It 
is  symmetrically  built,  chiefly  upon  an 
elevated  plain,  half  a  mile  east  of  the 
river.  It  has  no  historic  associations  of 
especial  interest.  Professor  Morse,  the 
inventor  of  the  electric  telegraph,  and 
Benson  J.  Lossing,  the  historian,  re- 
side here. 

New  PeUtz  Landing  is  on  the^opposite 
side  of  the  river,  west. 

Hyde  F«rk,  and  '^Flaoentia.''— 
Hyde  Park,80  miles  above  New  York,  is  a 
quiet  little  village  on  the  east  side,  in  the 
midst  of  a  country  of  great  fertility, 
and  thronged  with  wealthy  homesteads 
and  sumptuous  villas.  Near  the  village, 
on  the  north,  is  *'  Placentia,"  the  beau- 
tiful estate  of  the  veteran  author,  James 
E.  Paulding.  Here  this  distinguished 
jnoneer  in  American  letters  \b  passing  a 


NMW  TOBK. 


18S 


BondoaV-Klngiton— Otttkin— HndioB. 


kindly  age,  his  time  divided  between 
his  books  and  his  fields.  Placentia 
commands  a  magnificent  view  of  the 
river  windings,  far  above,  even  to  the 
peaks  of  the  distant  Oatskills. 

Staatsburg  is  upon  the  railway,  a  few 
miles  above. 

Rondout  and  Kingitonlie  on  the 
western  side,  the  former  on  the  Rond- 
out Creek,  one  mile  from  the  Hudson, 
and  the  latter  on  an  elevated  plain, 
three  miles  distant  from  the  river.  At 
Rondout  is  the  terminus  of  the  Dela- 
ware and  Hudson  Canal,  through  which 
large  supplies  of  coal  are  brought  to 
market.  The  Rondout  Creek  is  a  sin- 
gidarly  picturesque  stream,  in  all  its 
course  from  the  mountains,  westward. 

Kingnton  is  a  thriving  and  pleasant 
place.  Its  population  in  1856, was  nearly 
6,000,  and  that  of  the  township,  13,000. 
It  was  settled  by  the  Dutch  (1668)  about 
the  time  of  the  settlement  of  Albany 
and  New  York.  In  the  times  of  the 
Revolution  it  was  burned  by  the  British 
{Vl^n).  The  first  constitution  of  New- 
York  was  framed  and  adopted  in  a 
house  still  standing  here. 

Kingston  was  the  birth-place  of  Yan- 
derlyn,  the  eminent  punter.  He  died 
here  in  1868. 

Rhin^teek  is  on  the  railway,  opposite 
Kingston,  and  is  connected  with  that 
village  by  a  ferry. 

In  our  voyage  up  the  Hudson,  we 
have  now,  as  we  have  had  for  some 
miles  back,  new  and  magnificent  fea- 
tures in  the  landscape.  Far  away  on 
the  west,  lie  the  bold  ranges  of  the 
Shawangunk  and  the  Catskill  Mountains, 
forming  fresh  and  charming  pictures  at 
every  step  of  our  progress. 

Saugerties  and  Tivoii,  the  one  on  the 
west,  and  the  other  on  the  east  bank  of 
the  river,  now  attract  our  attention. 
Saugerties  is  a  picturesque  and  prosper- 
ous village,  at  the  debouchure  of  the 
beautiful  waters  of  Esopus  Creek. 

Passing  Maiden,  on  the  left,  and  Otr- 
matUovm  on  the  right,  we  come  to  Oak- 
hill^  the  station  on  the  railway  for  the 
opposite  town  of 

OataldlI|  at  the  mouth  of  the  Cats- 
kill  Oreek,  on  the  west  bank  of  the 


Hudson.  In  its  pictorial  attraction!, 
this  is  one  of  the  most  interesting 
pohits  of  our  present  route.  The  vi£ 
lage,  which  is  a  pleasant  and  thriving 
one,  rises  from  the  margin  of  the  oreek, 
to  an  elevated  site  on  the  north,  where 
it  is  dissipated  in  many  beautiful  coun- 
try  villas,  overlooking  the  river'  on  the 
east,  and  the  valley  and  fiountains  on 
the  west. 

Anong  these  homes  is  that  of  the 
family  of  the  painter,  Thomas  Cole. 
This  great  artist  was  buried  in  the  vil- 
lage cemetery  here.  His  studio,  seen 
ttoxa.  the  water,  is  still  preserved  in  aU 
its  arrangements,  as  it  was  when  he  last 
occupied  it. 

Catskill  is  chiefly  interesting  to  the 
tourist  as  the  point  of  detour  towards 
the  wonders  of  the  mountain  ranses, 
which  lie  over  the  intervening  valley, 
10  miles  westward.  See  Vour  to  the 
Catskill  Mountains. 

Budflon.  In  the  voyage  above  and 
below  Hudson,  there  are  displayed  some 
of  the  finest  passages  of  the  river  sce- 
nery. With  a  varied  shore  on  the  east, 
and  the  Catskill  peaks  an^  ridges  on  the 
werit,  the  tourist  will  scarcdy  regret 
that  he  has  left  even  the  Highlands  be- 
hind him.  Passing  Mount  Merino, 
about  four  miles  above  Catskill,  the  city 
of  Hudson,  lying  upon  the  water  and 
upon  a  high  terrace,  spreading  away  to 
higher  lands  on  the  east,  comes  impos- 
ingly into  view.  It  is  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant river  towns  commercially,  and 
one  of  the  most  attractive  topographi- 
cally and  pictoriaUy.  The  main  street, 
which  lies  through  the  heart  of  the  city, 
from  east  to  west,  terminates  at  the  river 
extremity  in  a  pleasant  little  park  called 
Promenade  Hill,  on  a  bold  promontory, 
rising  abruptly  60  feet  above  the  water ; 
while  the  other  terminus  climbs  to  the 
foot  of  Prospect  Hill,  an  elevation  of 
200  feet.  From  these  lofty  heights  the 
views  of  the  Catskills,  of  the  far-spread- 
ing river,  and  of  the  beautiful  dty 
itself  are  incomparable.  There  are 
nearly  a  dozen  churches,  some  of  them 
elegant  structures,  in  Hudson;  a  fine 
court-house  of  marble,  and  other  public 
edifices,  among  them  a  famous  Lunatio 


134 


WtW  TOBK. 


Th«  HadaoB— Klndeihook  ud  **  Llndanvold  "— Albaajr. 


Aiylum.  It  hM  Tftrioua  educational  es- 
tablishments, and  newnnpers  and  other 
publioations  to  the  number  of  half  a 
doxen.  Hudson  hi  a  dep6t  of  large 
business,  and  at  one  time  it  had  an  ex- 
tensive India  and  whaling  trade.  It  is 
at  the  head  of  ship  navigation  on  the 
river.  '  There  are  also  large  manufactu- 
ring interests  here,  maintaining  upwards 
of  seventy  establishments  of  various 
kinds.  It  is  the  chief  terminus  ^f  the 
Hudson  and  Berkshire  Railway,  extend- 
ins  eastward  84  miles  to  West  Stock- 
biidge,  Mass.,  and  uniting  with  the 
trains  from  Albany  to  Boston,  and  with 
other  routes. 

Passengers  fbr  the  Shaker  Village  at 
New  Lebanon,  86  miles  fkt>m  Hudson, 
t  ,ke  the  Hudson  and  Berkshire  oars  to 
within  seven  miles  of  the  Springs,  which 
are  much  sought  in  summer  time. 

ColunUna  Springt^  five  miles  distant, 
is  a  summer  resort  of  great  value  to  in- 
valids, and  of  interest  to  aU.  The  01a- 
verack  Falls,  some  eight  miles  off, 
should  not  be  overlooked  by  the  visitor. 

Bbtdt.  The  Hudson  House  on  Main 
street,  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  is 
an  elegant  establishment.  There  is 
also  a  good  hotel  near  the  railway 
station  and  steamboat  Iradmg.  The 
population  of  Hudson  in  i860,  was 
6,209. 

Athens  is  a  little  village,  with  a  popu> 
lation  of  1,400,  directly  oppositeHudson, 
and  connected  wiiL  i*  by  a  steam  ferry. 

atoekpmt,  Coxsaelde  and  8tuyve»ant 
come  now  in  succession  along  the  east 
side  of  the  river.  These  are  bustling 
and  tiiriving  little  places. 

Kinderhook  Landing,  and  "  ZjindeoF 
wotd.**  The  village  of  Kinderhook, 
about  five  miles  east  of  the  landing,  on 
the  east  side  of  the  river,  is  the  birth- 
place of  Martin  Van  Bnren,  Ex-Pre- 
sident of  the  United  States.  His  pre- 
sent reeddenoe  is  upon  his  estate  of 
*^  lindenwold,"  two  miles  south  of  the 
village. 

New  Baltimore  and  Goeymans  are  now 
passed  on  the  left,  and  Schodack  and 
Castleton  on  the  right,  after  which  we 
yet  journey  some  eight  miles,  and  then 
reach  East  Albany,  where  we  may  con- 


tinue on  to  Troy,  or  cross  the  river  by 
ferry  to  the  end  of  our  present  route  at 
the  city  of 

AllMiijr.  We  are  now  at  the  capital 
of  the  Empire  State,  after  our  voyage 
of  146  miles  (by  railway,  146),  ftom  the 
city  of  New  York.  For  the  continua- 
tion elsewhere  of  our  travels  from  this 
point  to  Boston,  Canada,  Saratoga 
SpringS|  Niagara  Falls,  and  the  Great 
West — for  railways  in  aU  directions 
meet  here— the  tourist  is  referred  to  our 
Index  of  routes  and  places. 

Albany  was  foonded  by  the  Dutch, 
first  in  a  trading  post  on  Oastle  Island, 
directly  below  tne  site  of  the  present 
city,  in  1614.  Fort  Orange  was  built 
where  the  town  now  stands,  in  1628; 
and,  next  to  Jamestown  in  Virginia,  was 
the  earliest  European  settlement  Ip  the 
ori^nal  thirteen  States.  It  was  known 
as  Beaver  Wyck,  and  as  WiUiamstadt, 
before  it  received  its  present  name  in 
honor  of  James,  Duke  of  York  and 
Albany,  afterwards  James  the  Second, 
at  the  period  when  it  fell  into  British 
possession,  1664.  The  population  in 
1866,  was  about  60,000. 

It  has  a  large  commerce,  from  its 
position  at  the  head  of  sloop  navigaticm 
and  tide  water  upon  the  Hudson,  as 
the  tntrepdt  of  the  great  Erie  Canal 
from  the  west,  andtheChamplain  Canal 
from  the  north,  and  as  the  centre  to 
which  many  routes  and  lines  of  travel 
converge.  The  boats  of  the  canal  are 
received  in  a  grand  basin  constructed 
in  the  river,  with  the  help  of  a  pier  80 
feet  wide,  and  4,800  feet  long. 

Albany,  seen  from  some  points  upon 
the  river,  makes  a  very  effective  ap- 
pearance, the  ground  rising  westward 
from  the  low  £its  on  the  shore,  to  an 
elevation  of  some  220  feet,  in  the  range 
of  a  mile  westward.  State  street  as- 
cends in  a  steep  grade  from  the  water 
to  the  height  crowned  by  the  State 
Capitol. 

Among  the  public  buildings  are  the 
Capitol  and  the  City  Hall,  each  capped  by 
a  gilded  dome — ^the  Exchange,  and  some 
of  the  church  edifices,  of  which  there 
are  about  40.  Of  these,  the  Catholio 
Cathedral,  when  completed,  will  be  a 


mew  TOBK. 


135 


Alhuj—ttoj. 


river  by 
route  at 

}  ofti^tal 
Toyftge 
Vom  tne 
ontinu»> 
rom  this 
Saratoga 
le  Great  ^ 
reotioDB 
3d  to  our 

)  Dutch, 
e  Island, 

present 
ras  built 
in  1628 ; 
;inia,  was 
at  ip  the 
18  known 
iamstadt, 

name  in 
'ork  and 

Second, 
o  British 
iation  in 

ftt>mits 
iTigtttion 
dson,  as 
e  Oanal 
in  Canal 
ntre  to 
if  travel 
anal  are 
>ructed 
pier  80 

t8  upon 

kive  ap* 

Bstward 

to  an 

range 

et  as* 

water 

State 

the 

kpedby 

Id  some 

there 

fttholio 

be  a 


The  Capitol,  Allmay. 


noble  structure ;  and,  besides  these,  are 
the  hotels,  and  the  building  of  some 
of  the  numerous  educationu  establish- 
ments of  the  city,  including  the  New 
Dudley  Observatory,  erected  at  a  cost  of 
$26,000,  and  the  Albany  Academy,  built 
at  an  expense  of  |100,000.  The  Uni- 
yersity  of  Albany  was  incorporated  in 
1862,  with  the  expectation  of  making  it 
a  national  institution  of  the  very  highest 
srade.  The  Medical  College,  founded 
in  1880,  is  a  prosperous  establishment. 
The  State  Normal  School  was  organized 
successfully  in  1844,  "for the  education 
and  practice  of  teachers  of  common 
schools,  in  the  science  of  education,  and 
the  art  of  teaching."  The  Albany  In- 
stitute, for  scientific  advancement,  has 
a  library  of  6,000  volumes.  The  Young 
Men's  Association  has  a  collection  of 
8,000  volumes ;  the  Apprentices'  Li- 
brary, 8,000;  and  the  State  Library 
(accessible  to  public  use),  has  2*7,000 
volumes. 

In  the  old  State  House,  on  State 
street,  the  public  collection,  in  natural 
history,  and  in  geology,  and  in  agricul- 
ture are  most  interesting.  The  Or- 
phan Asylum,  and  other  benevolent 
establishments  of  the  city,  are  well 
worth  the  consideration  of  the  tourist. 

The    distinguished  sculptor,  E.  D. 


Ma 


Palmer,  resides  here.    His  itadio 
place  of  especial  attraction. 

nroy  is  a  large  and  beantifhl  city  of 
over  46,000  inhabitants.  It  Is  upon 
both  bajiks  of  the  Hudson,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Poestenkill  Creek.  It  is 
built  upon  an  alluvial  plain^  overiooked 
on  the  east  side,  by  the  classic  heights 
of  Mount  Ida,  and  on  the  north  by  Uie 
barren  olifb  of  Mount  Olymnus,  200 
feet  high.  These  elevated  pomts  com' 
mand  superb  views  of  the  eitr  and  its 
charming  vicinage,  and  of  the  great 
waters  of  the  Hudson.  Trot  Hes  idong 
the  river  for  the  length  of  tbree  miles, 
and  drops  back  a  mile  frwn  east  to 
west.  Troy  is  a  busy  cAy,  with  its 
manufacturing  industry,  and  as  a  great 
etUrepdt  of  rdlway  travel  from  and  to 
all  points.  It  boasts  many  fine  churches 
and  public  buildings,  and  many  admir- 
able private  mansions  and  cottages. 
Here  is  the  well-knownFemale  Seminary, 
established  by  Mrs.  Emma  WilMrd,  in 
1821.  It  is  the  seat,  too,  of  the  Troy 
Polytechnic  Institute. 

The  chief  hotels  of  Troy  are  the 
American  Hotel,  Mansion  House,  Troy 
House,  Temperance  House,  Northern 
Hotel,  Washington  HalL  Union  HiOl, 
and  the  St.  Charles.  The  cars  leave 
Troy  and  Greeiibush  every  hour  duxhig 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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I.I 


IttlM  125 
■»  M  ■2.2 
Sf  l£o    12.0 


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llpS  11^  |||.6 

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Corporation 


23  WIST  MAIN  STRIET 

WIBSTIR,N.Y.  MSM 

(71«)I72-4S03 


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186 


WW  TOBK. 


The  New  York  and  Erie  BaOwsj. 


!. 


VI 


thd  day  and  evening.  Steamboats  and 
stages  also  run  between  Albany  and 
Troy.  Railway  tnunis  extend  to  all 
points.    See  Index. 

Wett  Tro7,  a  suburb  of  Troy,  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  is  a 
rapidly  growing  place.  The  inhabitants 
are  employed  principally  in  manu- 
factures. A  fine  Macadamized  road 
leads  from  West  Troy  to  Albany,  a 
distance  of  six  miles. 

At  Oibbonsville  is  a  United  States 
Arsenal,  where  is  kept  a  large  and  con- 
stant supply  of  small  arms,  and  the 
various  munitions  of  war.  This  Is  one 
of  the  most  important  of  the  national 
depots,  and  is  worthy  the  attention  of 
the  traveller. 

NEW  TOBK  TO  LAKE  EBIE, 
By  the  New  York  and^Hrie  Railroad. 

This  great  route  claims  especial  ad- 
miration for  the  grandeur  of  the  enter- 
prise which  conceived  and  executed  it,  for 
the  vast  contribution  it  has  made  to  the 
facilities  of  travel,  and  for  the  multiplied 
iind  varied  landscape  beauties  which  it 
has  made  so  readily  and  pleasantly  ac- 
cessible. Its  entire  length,  from  New 
York  to  Dunkirk,  on  Lake  Erie,  is  460 
miles  (including  the  Piermont  and  the 
Newbnrgh  branch,  it  is  49*7  miles), 
in  which  it  traverses  the  southern  por- 
tion of  the  Empire  State  in  its  entire 
extent  f^om  east  to  west,  passing 
through  countless  towns  and  villages, 
over  many  rivers;  through  rugged 
mountain  passes  now,  and  anon  amidst 
broad  and  fertile  valleys  and  plains. 
In  addition,  it  has  many  branches,  con- 
necting its  stations  with  other  routes 
in  all  directions,  and  opening  yet  new 
stores  of  pictorial  pleasures. 

The  road  was  first  commenced  in 
18S6.  The  first  portion  (46  miles,  fh)m 
Piermont  to  Goshen)  was  put  in  oper- 
ation September  28d,  1841 ;  and,  on  the 
16th  of  May,  1861,  the  entire  line  to 
Lake  Erie  was  opened  amid  great  re- 
joicings and  festivals,  in  which  the  Pre- 
sident of  the  United  States  and  other 
distmguished  guests  of  the  company 
assisted. 


Some  idea  of  the  extent  of  this  noble 
route  may  be  gathered  from  the  fact, 
that,  in  1864,  it  employed  about  200 
locomotives,  nearly  8,000  cars,  4,000 
employes  (682  of  which  are  engaged 
in  repairing  engines  and  cars).  The 
cost  of  the  road  and  equipments,  up  to 
1864  (including  the  Newburgh  branch), 
was  nearly  $34,600,000.  The  earnings 
for  the  year  1866  were  $6,849,060  16, 
and  the  expenses  for  the  same  peripd 
were  $6,002,764  48. 

An  interesting  feature  of  this  road, 
and  one  of  great  convenience  to  the 
Company  and  security  to  the  traveller, 
is  its  own  telegraph,  which  runs  by  the 
side  of  the  road  through  its  whole  ex- 
tent, and  has  its  operator  in  neiirly 
every  station-house.  Thu  telegraph  has 
a  double  wire  the  entire  length  of  the 
road ;  enabling  the  Company  to  trans- 
act the  public  as  well  as  their  own  pri* 
vajte  business.  Daily  trains  leave  for 
the  West  on  this  route,  from  the  foot  of 
Duane  street,  morning,  noon,  and  night. 

STATIONS. 

Nkw  Yobk,  Jersey  City,  Bergen,  2 
miles ;  Boiling  Spruig,9 ;  Passaic  Bridge, 
11;  Huykr's  12;  Patkbson,  16;  God- 
winville,  21 ;  Hohokus,  28 ;  Allendale, 
26;  Ravisey's,  21 ;  Suffem^s,  81 ;  Ram- 
apo,  88;  Sloatsburg,  86;  Southfields, 
41;  Greenwood,  44;  Turner's,  4*7; 
Monroe,  49 ;  Oxford,  62 ;  .Chester,  66 ; 
Goshen,  69 ;  Hampton,  68 ;  Middletown, 
66 ;  Howell's  70 ;  Otisville,  16 ;  Port 
Jervis,  88 ;  Shohola,  106 ;  Lackawax- 
EN,  110;  Mast  Hope,  116;  Narrows- 
BURO,  122 ;  Cochecton,  180 ;  Callicoon, 
136 ;  Hankins,  142 ;  Basket,  146 ;  Lord<- 
ville,  163;  Stockport,  169;  Hancock, 
168;  Hale's  Eddy,  171 ;  Deposit,  176; 
Susquehanna,  192 ;  Great  Bend,  200 ; 
Kirkwood,  206;  Conklin,  210;  BiNO- 
HAHTON,  214;  Hooper,  220;  Union, 
223 ;  Campville,  228  ;  Owsoo,  236  ; 
Tioga,  242 ;  Smithboro,  246 ;  Barton, 
248;  Waverley,  266;  Chemung,  260; 
Wellsburg,  266;  Elhira,  278;  Junc- 
tion, 277;  Big  JFIats,  283;  Corning, 
291;  Painted  Post,  292 ;  Addison,  801; 
Bathboneville,  806;  Cameron,  814; 
Adrian,  822 ;  Canisteo,  827  ;  HoRNBLUh 


1^ 


4 


•#' 


ut. 


<§«: 


this  noble 
I  the  fact, 
ftbout  200 
an,  4,000 
I  engaged 
ftrs).  The 
mts,  up  to 
h  branch), 
e  earnings 
49,060  16, 
me  peripd 

this  road, 
ice  to  the 
e  traveller, 
nins  by  the 
s  whole  ex- 
in  nearly 
iegraph  has 
igth  of  the 
ly  to  trans- 
eir  own  pri» 
IS  leave  for 
I  the  foot  of 
I,  and  night. 


i  ■? 


1.    /■   / 


'.■    '■'' 


»^l^1llw^l^l^M^l!^^lill^j^|^l^i;^l>fijii 


--,  I 


^•'-' 


■fi». 


■■•■    ;^  •'"'' 


■:*, 


^ 


,  Bergen,  2 
saio  Bridge, 
[,  16;  God- 

Allendale, 
!,  81 ;  Ram- 
Southfields, 
;ner's,  4*7 ; 
Chester,  66 ; 

(iddletown, 
76;  Port 

Lackawax- 
Narrows- 

;  Callicoon, 

146  i  Lord^ 
Hancock, 

irosiT,  176; 

Bknd,  200 ; 

210;  Binq- 

20;   Union, 

VKOO,  236  ; 

6;  Barton, 

mung,  260; 

273;  Juno- 
;  Corning, 

ddison,  301 ; 

eron,    314 ; 

;  HORMKLLS* 


3»  ,i!  :  ''.'"' 

t  A^ft^^-^r?-:-'  ■■'■ 


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^>^, 


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:-.!! 


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MBW  TOBK* 


187 


TlM  T«U«7  of  flM  Ban^^o— Onag*  OonatT',  N.  T. 


bi^  881 ;  Almond,  880*;  Alfired,  840 ; 
■udorer,  849:  Gun«Me,  866;  Boio, 
H ;  PhUUpaTille,  866 ;  Belvidere,  869 ; 
Bndiiap,  87B ;  Cuba,  888 ;  Hlaidde,, 
8i9 ;  OuAH,  896  ;  AUeguy,  898; 
OlMt  Tallej,  411 ;  Utile  Ydloy,  430; 
OttUraaguB,  428 ;  Dayton,  487 ;  Vmr^ 
bir9,440;  SmUh's  ]IUIa,44r;  Fomt- 
TUle,  461 ;  Shei^ilen,  466 ;  DumoBK, 
4(iO. 

ph  Sv0m^9  (81  milea)  via  Nem  Jtr- 
Mft  aiM  «M  Pltmumt.  The  fint  81 
npiae  of  the  Brie  Route,  that  through 
thii  '^tate  of  New  Jersey,  from  Jerwy 

3y,  dt^KHrtte  New  York,  to  **  Soifem's," 
taiflte  of.  parts  of  three  ^Ufferent 
(ways,  though  used  of  late  years 
fof  aU  Uie  general  passenger  travel  of 
tltt  Erie  road,  and  with  its  own  broad 
trick  and  ean!#'  The  original  line  of 
tfai  road  is  from  Suffem's  eastward,  18 
mies,  to  PieraONUii,  and  thenoe  24  iniles 
d«|ri|  ilie:Hudson  river.  This  route  is 
n<|ir  <toi&yed  only  for  fiteight,  and  for 
'  travel.  It  leads  through  a  rude 
not  uninteresting  country,  with 
and  there  a  fine  landscape  or  an 
ftble  village, 
te  pass  now,  without  halt,  through 
iKew  Jersey  towns— Patterson,  with 
itii  "  Falls  of  the  Passaic  "  among  them, 
ami  begin  our  mention  of  places  and 
sofnes  of  interest  on  the  Erie  route, 
atlB^m's  station,  where  the  original 
Pilrmont  and  the  present  Jersey  City 
liiMS  meet.  The  JUmapo  Valley  com* 
mtaces  at  this  point,  and,  in  its  wild 
mountain  passes,  we  find  the  first  scenes 
of<especial  remark  in  our  journey.  line 
hit  &rms  surround  us  here,  and  on  all 
otur  way  through  the  region  of  the 
R«mapo  for  18  miles,  by  Slo^Avrg, 
S^MhfitMt,  Greenwood,  and  7lfrn«r*«  to 
Mvnroe.  The  chief  attraction  of  the 
Bi^po  Gap  is  the  Tom  Mountain, 
variedly  seen,  on  the  right,  near  the 
entrance  of  the  vallev  and  about  the 
Bamapo  station.  Tnis  is  historical 
ground,  sacred  with  memories  of  the 
movements  of  the  Revolutionary  army, 
when  U  was  driven  back  into  New 
York  from  the  Hudson.  Washington 
otten  ascended  to  the  summit  of  the 
Tom  to  overlook  the  movements  of  the 


in^a 


British.  On  one  snob  occarion,  an« 
dote  says  that  he  lost  his  watch 
oreviee  of  a  roek,  of  which  credulity 
afterwards  Jward  the  ticking  in  the  per^ 
eolations  of  unseen  waters.  Very  near 
the  railway  at  Suflbm's  the  diebris  of  oldi 
intmnohments  are  still  visible;  and 
marica  of  the  camp  fires  of  our  French 
allies  of  the  period  may  be  traced  in 
the  woods  opposite.  Near  by  is  an  old 
farm  house,  once  occupied  by  the  com- 
mander-m-chief.  The  Ramapo  is  a 
great  iron  ore  and  iron  numufkcture 
region ;  and  it  was  here  that  the  great 
chain  which  was  stretched  across  the 
Hudson  to  check  the  advance  of  the 
Engtiah  ships,  was  forged,  at  the  tpoi 
once  called  the  Augusta  Iron  Works, 
and  now  a  poetical  rain  by  a  charming 
cascade  with  overhanging  bluffy  seen 
dose  by  the  road,  on  the  right,  after 
passing  Slpatsburg.  The  Ramapo  Brook 
winds  attractively  through  the  valley, 
and  beautifiil  lakelets  are  found  nptm 
the  hill  tops.  There  are  two  such  eleva^ 
ted  ponds  near  ffloatsburg.  At  Sloats- 
buig  passengers  for  the  summer  resort 
of  Greenwood  Lake,  12  miles  ofi^  take 
stage  tri*weekly.  Bee  Greenwood  Lake. 
From  Monroe  onward  through  Ox- 
ford, Cheater,  Ooahen,  ffampUm,  JM- 
dietovm,  HomMa,  and  Otiavule  to  Port 
Jervia  (or  Delaware)  we  are  in  the 

Sreat  dairy  ref^on  of  Orange  County, 
ew  York,  which  sends  a  train  of  can 
laden  only  with  milk  dai^  to  the  New 
York  market.  A  very  charming  view 
is  seen  south  from  the  station  at  Ox* 
ford,  led  by  the  cone  of  the  Sugar  Loa^ 
the  chief  hill  feature  of  the  vicmage. 
At  Chester,  the  branch  road  firom  New> 
burgh,  on  the  Hudson  river,  19  miles 
lonff,  comes  in.  From  this  point,  as 
well  as  from  Soatsburg,  passengers  for 
Greenwood  Lake  (eight  miles)  take 
stage<  At  HoweB's,  70  miles  frOm  New 
York,  the  country  ^ves  promise  of  the 
picturesque  displays  to  be  seen  through 
all  the  way  onward  to  Port  Jerm. 
ApproacUng  Otisville,  the  eye  is  won 
bv  the  bold  flanks  of  the  Shawangunk 
Mountain,  the  passage  of  which  great 
barrier  (once  deemed  almost  insur* 
mountabje)  is  a  minude  of  en^eering 


'*; 


188 


<> 


The  ir.  T.  *  lito  Baflw^r-^-Otkrilto-Part  imeria.  . 


ddlL  A  ttille  bejond  OtisTiUe,  after 
tn^Terring  an  aioending  grade  of  40 
feel  to  the  ndle,  the  ref  d  nms  throarii 
a  rock  catting,  60  ftet  deep  and  S.600 
ll»et  long.  TUe  paned,  the  immnn  of 
the  aeeent  ii  reaMied,  and  thenoe  we 
CO  down  the  moontafai  aide  nany  itop* 
ug  mttei  to  the  raUey  beneath.  Tlie 
loenery  along  the  atoontaln  (dope  la 
grand  and  piotnreaqae,  and  the  efleot  is 
not  lessened  by  the  bold  ^atnres  of  the 
landscape  all  around — Ae  mcged  front 
of  the  8hawBngank,8tepping,luie  a  eoloe> 
sal  ghost,  into  the  scene  for  one  instant, 
and  the  eye  anon  resting  upon  arast 
reachof  VBtaoied  liiUeraess.  In  the  ds* 
scent  of  tiM  nWpaMdtt  j^«lttbankment 
is  secnrely  tftqnpmKitf  w  i  widl  to  foot 
in  height  and  1,000  net  long.  The 
way  onward  grawt  momently  inuterest, 
nntil  it  opens  nponfr^impsi^  away  orer 
the  Talley  of  IM.  movnuin,  spar,  called 
the  GndtiDebaok;  and,  at  its  base,  the 
glittering  water  seen  now  for  the  first 
time,  of  Uie  Delaware  and' Hudson  Oand, 
whose  tUbou^nm  we  have  looked  upon 
«t  Kingston,  in  our  Toyage  up  the  Hod- 
son  rirer.  Sight  miles  beyond  Otisrille 
we  are  imprisoned  in  a  deep  earthy  cnt 
for  nearly  a  mile,  admirably  preparing 
OS  for  the  brilliant  surprise  which  awaits 
US.  The  dark  passage  made,  and  yet  an* 
other  bold  dadi  through  rocky  cliflSi,  and 
tiiere  UessuddenlT  siweadbefore  us,upon 
our  right,  the  rich  and  lorely  talley  and 
waters  of  the  I^eyersink.  Beyond  sweeps 
a  chain  of  blue  hills,  and  at  their  feet, 
terraced  high,  there  gleam  the  rooft 
and  spires  of  the  village  of  Port  Jervis ; 
while  onward,  to  the  south,  our  eye 
first  beholds  the  floods  of  the  Delaware, 
which  is  to  be  BO  great  a  source  of  de- 
light in  all  our  journey  hence,  for  nearly 
90  long  miles,  to  Depodt. 

Fort  Jomrw,  or  Ddaware,  as  the  sta- 
tion is  called,  is  the  terminus  of  the 
eastern  division,  one  of  four  great  sub- 
sections into  which  the  road  is  mea- 
sured. It  is  the  point  at  which  the 
tourist  who  can  spend  several  days  in 
viewing  the  route,  should  make  his 
first  night's  halt.  The  vidnage  is  re- 
plete'with  pictorial  delights,  and  with 
ways. and  means  for  nual  sports  and 


pleasures.  Charms  of  cUmate  and  ol 
scenery,  with  the  additional  eonsidera* 
tions  Ma  pretty  village  and  a  most  ex- 
cellent hotel  (the  Ddaware  House  at  the 
statf  onX  have  made  Fort  Jervis  a  pkoo 
of  great  and  ootttinvoos  sunmer  resort 
and  tarry. 

There  hi  a  stage  nmlehttteej  6  miles, 
to  the  neighboring  ** fappel  tin  Saw- 
kill."  Tus  stream,  «i|iir  JMac  shig> 
gishly  for  some  ndiil  Unmii^  level 
table-hmd,  is  here  preeljitrtftd  over  two 
perpendicukr  Ie%it  of  tfaipNPOek— the 
first  Of  about  SO  ftet»  attf  4he  second 
about  00  feetr!lnto  a  wi|ttii»fge.  The 
brook  still  con)Bii«es,  dsiili)||aind  foam- 
ing <m  for  a  qnartoi  «f  A^iMe^  over 
smaUer  predf^oea,  an|  ttMgh  chasms 
scarcely  wide  ewnq(h  fbr  jfte  irisitor  to 
pass.  Theb^etiingeplllMCIbrin  the 
sides  of  the  gorge  are  sa^onnted  and 
shaded  by  cedare  «a^  BMndocks,  that 
lend  a  peculiariy  sombre  air  to  the 
scenery.  The  sdoumer  here  must  not 
omit  a  tramp  to  tne  top  of  Fofait  Peter, 
overlooking  the  village,  and  all  tiie 
wonders  for  miles  ground.  vr 

We  now  continue  the  transit  of  the 
second  grand  d^yision  of  the  road, 
which  canies  us  onward,  104  miles  for- 
ther,  to  /SiMoiMAanfia,  and  from  New 
Tork,  aU  told,  192  miles.  The  canal 
keeps  us  company,  nearer  or  more  re- 
mote, for  some  miles,  and  by  and  by  we 
cross  the  Djelaware  on  a  fine  bridge  of 
800  feet,  built  at  a  cost  of  $76,000. 
The  river,  from  this  point,  is  seen,  both 
above  and  below,  to  great  advantage. 
Here  we  leave  Orange  County  and  New 
Toric  >  for  a  Uttie  mcnrtion  into  the 
Keystone  State,  for  which  privilege  the 
company  pays  Pennsylvania  ten  thou- 
sand dt^ars  per  year. 
.  The  canal,  and  its  pictures  and  bd- 
dents,  are  still  the  most  agreeable 
features  of  our  way,  though  at  Point 
Eddy  we  open  into  one  of  the  wide 
badns  so  striking  in  the  scenery  of  the 
Delaware. 

Neiy  Shohdla  (106^  mfles  from  New 
York),  we  are  among  aome  of  the 
greatest  enj^neeiing  successes  of  the 
Erie  route,  and  some  of  its  chief  picto- 
rial charms.    Herejkhe  road  lies  on  tiie 


'f 


V  -r!.^ 


mw  TOBK* 


II 

199 


lie  and  of 

eoDstden* 
a  mMt  ex- 
[ovseatthe 
rrisftpteoo 
liner  Niort 

_  ^  B»w- 
»K)nff  dug- 
rMf^  leTel 
fAmm  two 
iipi«oek— the 
4lie  aecond 
iPtge.    The 
llMidfoaiii- 
pMilei  oTer 
9«(|^eluumps 
iM^tor  to 
Mkl»tnthe 
boonied  and 
ododu,  that 
I  tit  to  the 
lere  miut  not 
Fdnt  Peter, 
and  aU  the 


LuU 


of  the 
the   road, 
Mndfesftir- 
from  New 
The  canal 


I  and  inei- 

agreeable 

kgh  at  Point 

(of  the  wide 

enery  of  the 

firom  New 
of  the 
of  the 
I  chief  picto- 
lies  <m  the 


WMrowii>Biy-<kli<eoa— Hanwwlr. 


The  D«kwir»  BItw,  hmut  HaawMk,  V.  T^*  ftto  Baawif. 


tifionntidtt  idde,  sereral  feet  aboTo  the 
riTer,  along  a  mighty  gallery,  aamxHrted 

'  fny  graind  natural  abutments  of  jagged 
rodt.  It  is  a  ideasant  scene  to  watch 
tile  i^t  of  the  train  upon  the  crest 
of  this  rooky  and  secure  precipice ;  and 
the  impressiToness  of  the  right  is  deep- 
oned  by  Its  contrast  with  the  peacenil 
repose  of  the  smiling  meado#  slopes,  on 

'  the  opposite  ride  of  the  rirer  bUow. 

'  Upon  three  miles  alone  of  this  Shohola 
section  of  the  road,  no  less  than  tluee 
hundred  tiionsand  dollars  were  ex- 
ponded.  - 

-  At  Ladiawaxen  (111  miles  from  New 
ToriEX  there  is  a  oliarming  picture  of 
the  Tillai^,  and  of  the  Delaware  bridged 
by  the  nulway,  and  by  the  grand  aqae> 
duct  for  the  passage'  of  the  oanal,  sup* 
ported  by  an  Iron  wire  sospenrion 
bridge. 

We  pass  on  now  by  Hast  Hope  to 
Narrdwabure. 

Wanowslmtg  (122  miles  from  New 
York  and  888  irom  DunkirkX  is  a 
pleasant  jdace  for  quiet  summer  rest 
and  rural  pastime,  with  its  iqriting 
hotel  comforts,  and  its  piscatory  and 
field  recreations  aikl  sports. 


Beyond  NarrowBbttrg,1br  some  mfles^ 
the  tfrnveller  may  torn  to  his  newqpaper 
or  book  fbr  occupation  a  while,  so  ttttfe 
of  intersst  does^he  seesie,  without,  pre- 
sent, with  die  exception,  now  ind 
then,  of  a  plearing  bit  of  pastoral  re- 
gion. Some  eompensation  may  be 
found  in  recallfaig  the  stirring  inddents 
of  Cooper's  novel  of  the  **  hut  of  the 
KiAieaiis,'*  of  which  this  ground  was 
the^beatre. 

At  OslUeoon,  a  brook  ftdlof  wSdand 
beautilbl  passages  and  of  brin^  trout, 
oomes  down  to  the  Ddaware. 

As  we  apiMNudi  Haneoek,  oitoe  esJled 
Ohehioeton,  we  come  near  the  charming 
pieture  of  the  meeting  of  the  two 
branches  of  the  Delaware,  seen  on  our' 
left. 

Hanoooit  is  <me  of  the  most  import 
tant  idaces  on  this  dividon  of  onr.route, 
and  in  erery  way  a  j^easant  spot  frir 
sojourn. 

At  Dtpost/,  18  mfles  beyond  Hanoook, 
and  176  from  New  Toric,  we  bid  good- 
bye to  the  Delaware,  which  we  mto 
followed  so  lonff ;  refresh  ourselves  at 
the  excellent  caf6,  and  prepare  fbr  the 
ascent  of  a  heavy  grade  over  tbs  hi^h 


•140 


JlJiW  TOiUE* 


TiM  K.  T.  *  Xito  BAihrajr-OMoid*  Bri4fl»-4tamiflOft  TinAMt 


mowitoin  ridg*  whieh  MpantM  h  flfom 
the  lOTeljr  waten  of  tha  BosqaeluniM. 
We  m  up  68  feet  per  mile  to  en  eler*- 
tlon  Ses  feet  ftboTe  Daporft.  The  way 
is  wild  and  desolate,  00T«nd  with  tM 
Jagged  Mrit  left  ia  the  RtroBg  battle 
with  the   moontdn  fcatnewee.    The 

Snd  pan  of  the  BnmiBit  reached,  we 
oend  again  by  a  grade  of  60  feet, 
Into  that  most  beanmbl  reoion  of  the 
Erie  road,  the  Valley  of  ue  Suaque- 


For  a  little  while,  aa  we  go  down, 
there  seema  no  promise  of  the  wonderi 
whieh  are  awaiting  as,  but  they  oome 
Boddeuty,  and  befeie  we  are  aware,  we 
are  traterring  the  ftmoos  ' ' 

OMoad*  Mdgil,  a  sdltaiT  airoh, 
260  foet  wide,  spQing  OTera  dark  r»> 
Tine  of  184  feet  m  depth. 

No  adequate  idea  of  thei 
bold  sfdrit  and  beauty  of 
the  scene  can  be  had  flron 
the  ears,  and  especially  in 
the    rapid    traudt    eaten 

rned  before  the  traveller 
aware  of  its  aMsroaoh. 
It  should  be  viewed  leisure^ 
ly  from  the  bottom  of«the 
deep  glen,  and  from  all 
rides,  to  be  realized  aright 
To  see  it  thus,  a  half  a  daVs 
h^lt  should  be  made  at  the 
next  station,  to  which  we 
shall  soon  oome. 
.  The  Cascade  Bridge 
crossed,  the  -riew  opens 
almost  immediately,  at  the 
right— deep  down  upon 
the  winding  Susquehanna, 
reaching  uke  off  amidst 
a  valley  and  hill*idctare 
of  delicious  quality,  a  fit- 
ting  prelude  to  the  sweet 
rirer  scenes  we  are  henee- 
forth  to  delight  jn.  This 
first  gratoftil  glimpse  of  the 
brave  Susquehanna  is  just- 
W  esteemed  as  one  of  the 
miest  points  on  the  varied 
scenery  of  the  Erie  Rail- 
way rbute.  It  may  be 
looked  at  more  leisurely 
and  more  lovingly  by  him 


who  tarries  to  etplore  the  Cascade 
Bridge  hard  by,  and  the  valley  of  ^ 
Starmoca,  with  its  grand  viaduct, 
which  we  are  now  npid^  anproaehlng. 
Th*  StaxraoM  wkMoel  090  miles 
firom  New  Tork  and  tSO  Urom  Dunkirk), 
ia  one  of  the  chief  irl^ories  of  our 

KNMttt  route— peiliMi  the.  ehiefest. 
e  giant  structure  u  made  of  stone, 
from  the  Irvine,  two, miles  abovo,' 
crossed  by  the  feiry  Cascade  Bridge^ 
It  is  1,^00  feet  fa»  length  and  110 
feet  high,  and  has  18  grand  arohea, 
each  60  feet  span.  The  cost  was 
$880,000.  The  landseape  u  «f  exceed- 
ing beantv,  whether  seen  mm  the  vla«^ 
duct  or  from  any  one  of  mi^iy  points^, 
near  or  afiir  olL  mIow.  flrom  the  viol* 
nity  of  Sosqueuuina,  the  next  statioii, 


Cueade  BrMgs,  Erie  Baflwi^. 


MXW  TOBK. 


Ul 


OMMde 

•yof  ^« 
Vlftdaet, 
roMhIng. 
lOOnnei 
DanUrk), 
M  of  our 
.  eblefeit; 
of  Mon*^ 

i  Bridge, 
and  no 
d  arohea, 
coat  wu 
»f  Moaad- 
n  tha  vla- 

n  the  Tiol* 
tt  atatioii, 


Bami^lanna   (lift  Itena—Blnghiwitwa— Owtgoii 


•^ 


ri 


y 


the  Tiaduot  itaelf  makea  a  moat  affaotiva 
faatura  in  tha  rallay  rieira. 

▲  Uttla  way  beyond,  and  Just  before 
wa  raaeh  the  SoiquelMnna  atatU>n,  we 
oroaa  a  Una  tieatle  bridge,  450  feet 
long,  OTer  the  Oannewiota  Creek,  at 
Laneaboroogh.  We  are  now  fiUrty 
vpon  the  Buaqoehanna,  not  In  the  dia* 
uuioa,  but  near  Ita  rary  marge,  and, 
anon,  we  reach  the  end  of  the  Moond 
grand  dividon  of  our  route,  and  enter 
tne  buay  depot  of  Suaquehanna,  from 
New  Tork  192  mllea,  and  firom  Dunkirk 
867. 

At  BtHMiwhanfM  we  are  paadng 
beyond  the  wild  acenery  on  our  route, 
and  in  a  few  milea  Airther  we  ahall 
fldl  in  with  and  follow,  for  many  mil^, 
through  broad  yalley  traoka,  oouraed  by 
the  great  winding  riTer — a  country 
which  we  ahall  find  replete  with  inter- 
eat,  and  very  often  of  marked  natural 
beauty,  however  unlike  the  acenes  upon 
which  we  have  looked  in  our  tnmalt  of 
the  wild  hiiia  and  foreat  region  of  the 
Delaware. 

The  Soaqneluinna  atation  ia  one  of 
th^  buirieat  pointa  on  our  route,  being 
the  place  wrhere  diTlsions  meet — ^whev 
the  great  maaf^Te  ensines,  or  jnuhera, 
which  are  uaed  to  /wm  the  heavy  traina 
hence  to  the  top  of  the  grand  hill 
''Summit,"  are  houaed,  and  where  the 
workahopa  for  tlui  repaira  of  diaabled 
locomotivea  and  cava  are  located.  200 
hands  are  employed  here  by  the  com> 

Sny.  Indeed,  the  place  Is  all  railroad, 
>m  which  it  was  bom*  and  fIrom  which 
it  haa  grown.  If  the  hotelili  at  thia 
station  are  too  noisy  for  thf  tarrying 
stranger,  we  may  go  a  mile  backwards 
to  Laoesborough,  and  frond  thence  re- 
Tiew  the  aoenea  of  the  Starrucca  and  of 
the  Cascade  Bridges,  with  many  other 
points  of  pictorial  attraction. 

Just  beytmd  the  Susquehanna  depot 
we  cross  to  the  right  Inmk  of  the  river, 
and,  after  two  more  ndles  ride,  yet 
amidst  mountain  ridges,  we  reach 

Oraat  Band,  200  mOes  from  New 
Tork,  and  259  from  Dunkirk.  The  vil- 
lage of  this  name  lies  dose  by,  in  the 
State  of  Pennsylvania,  at  the  base  of  a 
bold  cone-shaped  hilL 


At  Great  Band  there  comes  in  to  tlw 
Brie  Road  tha  DeUware.'  Lackawanna, 
and  Western  Railway,  leading  nearly 
south  into'Pennaylvania,  through  the 
coal  regiona  of  Scranton^the  ne^(hbor* 
hood  of  the  valley  of  Wyomins,  tha 
Water  Gap  of  the  Delaware,  and  end- 
ing upon  that  riv%r,  five  milea  yet  be- 
low ;  here  It  la  connected  by  other  rail- 
way routea  with  New  York,  PhiUdel* 
phia,  etc.    See  Index. 

Leaving' Great  Bend  we  enter  upoa 
the  more  cultivated  huidscape  of  whksh 
we  lately  spoke,  and  approach  villama 
and  towns  of  greater  extent  and-  ele- 
gance. 

Near  Kbkwood,  the  next  station,  rix 
miles  from  Great  Bend,  there  stands  aa 
old  wooden  tenement,  which  may  at- 
tract the  traveller's  notice  aa  the  birth* 
phuse  of  the  Mormon  prophet,  Joe 
Smitii. 

BJnghainton,  216  mllea  from  New 
York,  M,  with  ita  population  of  ten  or 
eleven  thousand  people,  one  of  the  moat 
important  placea  on  the  Erie  route,  and 
indeed  In  southern  New  York.  It  is  4 
beautifiil  town,  sitnated  upon  a  wide 
pUn,  in  an  angle  made  by  the  meeting 
of  the  Susquehanna  and  the  Chenango 
rivers. 

Blnghamton  waa  settled  In  1804,  by 
Mr.  Kngham,  an  Enelish  gentieman, 
whoaa  mnghtera  married  the  brothers 
Henry  and  Alexander  Barinir,  tha 
fiunons  London  bankera.  One  of  those 
gentlemen  waa  afterwards  created  Lord 
Aahbnrton. 

The  Chenango  Canal,  extending  along 
the  CSienango  river,  connects  Brngham* 
ton  with  Utica,  N.  Y.,  9S  miles  distant ; 
and  it  is  also  the  southern  terminus  of 
tiie  Syracuse  and  Blnghamton  Railroad, 
80  miles  long.  See  Index.  Passing  on 
by  the  stations  of  Hooper,  Union,  and 
Campville,  we  come  to 

Owago,  another  large  and  hand- 
some  town,  almost  rivalbg  BInghaniton 
in  beauty  and  importance.  Owego  is 
surrounded  by  a  landscape,  not  of  bold 
but  of  very  heautiM  features.  Many 
noble  panopfunas  are  to  be  seen  from 
the  hiU-tops  around,  overlooking  the 
village  and  the  great  valley.  The  Owegd 


tk^ 


tV' 


u» 


''iS^ 


tV.T.* 


Oratk  wblMk  •nten  tik*  8a«|MhMii» 
kti^  M  ft  •hannliif  itiMBi.  JmI  b«foi« 
its  ■••Hng  with  tM  grtettr  inrt«n,  h 

MMM  tlUM|h  th«  BMdOW,  asd  •!  Um 

kMof  th«  hiU  ikoM  ^  ainuMrj,** 
OMt  th«  horn*  of  N.  9.  I^QHl  ud  BOW 
Mt  of  Ike  Mmom  of  «k«  vfaUMM,  to 


iririek  aU  Tlsltoni  M«  ifta  bv  tho  enunf 
•nd  ndh  the  geBlnt  of  too  poot  hM 
«Mt  aboat  It.  It  wM  bora  that  Mr. 
WSa»  vroto  Us  fluiMNM  **L«tten  from 
•ndoRA  Bridge.** 

TIm  OftjugA  and  SuHMbMUia  BaU* 
road  divanM  here,  ioim  SO  milea,  to 
Ithaca,  <m0ia7aga  Lake.    See  Index. 

Tho  Owaga  Honie,  in  the  heart  of  tlie 
t<»iraaBdon  the  bankaof  tlMSnaqaehan* 
na,ii  n  largo  and  elegant  innuner  hotel 

Bhilnu— Paatring  the  half  doien 
interme^ate  etatkna,  we  inmp  now.  87 
adlea,  to  Bnira,  878  miieii  from  Mew 
Toric.  This  beantifid  town  is  a  peer  of 
BInghamton  and  Owego,  with  the  same 
ohanning  ralley  nest  and  the  same 
enTironing  hillHridges. 

The  Kewton  Oreek  and  the  Ohemong 
Blrer,  near  the  Jonotlon  of  which  waters 
Ifanim  is  bidlt,  lend  a  worid  of  picta<- 
reamie  beantj  to  the  Tidnage. 

*nie  Bhnira,  Oanandaigua,  and  Ni< 
agara  Falls  Bulwaj  direrges  here,  and 
oonneets  the  Tillage  with  the  Oaiiada 
lines.  This  road  is  one  of  the  pleasant- 
eft  from  New  York  td  the  lUb  of  Ni- 
agara. 

, Vie  ^Vmiamsport  and  Elmba  B^lroad 
eondocts  hence  into  PennsrlTanla,  and 
wtites  with  other  lines  for  Philadelphia. 
The  CSiemvDg  Oanal  also  connects 
Bhnirn  with  Seneca  Lake,  SO  mUes 
distant.  It  is  a  delightAd  ezoundon 
from  the  ^^HUage  to  GencTa  and  other 
lilaoes  on  the  Seneca  Lake,  by  the  iidl- 
way  traTcL  See  Index  for  rontes  from 
Blmira. 

Htc  miles  beyond  Blmira,  oar  ronte 
is  OTcr  the  Ghemong  Uver,  brinj^  as 
;  to  "Junction,**  the  starting  point  of  the 
Ohemong  Bwroad  for  Jeibrson  and 
magara. 

Ciomiiig^  290  ndles  from  New  T^rk, 
is  as  important  point  on  the  CSiemang 
BiTcr.  ^e  feeder  of  the  Chemung 
Oanal  extends  Utherfr<nn Blmira.    Itis 


tho  dep6t  of  Um  Oomhig  aad 
buy  BaOroad.  heneo  40  mOss  to  the 
ooalbeds of  FennsylraBla.  At Oori^^g 
there  terminates  also  the  Boftlo^  Oor> 
nln&  and  NewTork  Ballroad,  94  nllss^ 
▼la  Atob  OSpvingsX  and  BataTk  to  Bo- 
ehester,  on  the  great  MNMee  weet  from 
Albany.    Bee  Index. 

W»>mlliwnk  PamlnglialfadoMii 
stations,  wf ,  now  reech  Hom^srillo, 
where  passengers  Ibr  Boflhto,  Niagara, 
Ac.,  fiMlow  the  Branch  Bond  north,  fbr 
91  miles.  (See  BafUo  DlTision.)  Aft 
this  p<rint  we  enter  npon- the  foortn  and 
last  diTision  of  the  Brie  ronto,  behig 
now  881  miles  from  Now  York,  and 
hnring  188  mUes  yet  to  troTel  to  Dim* 
ki^.  The  eonntry  throoi^  tho  rest  of 
our  way  is  comparatiToly  new,  and  no 
important  towns  have  yet  grown  vp 
witUn  it.  Pietorially  this  diridon  is  tho 
least  attractiTo  of  the  whole  route, 
though  boautiftd  soenes  occur  stni,  at 
intervals,  all  along.  Beyond.  Homdla- 
TiUe,  we  enter  the  TaUey  of  the  Oania- 
cadM,  a  fine  mbuntiMh  jpassage,  fllled 
with  the  merry  waters  oi  the  Oaniacar 
den  Creek.  Almond  and  Alfrtd  lie 
upon  the  banks  of  this  charming  streaii. 

Beaching  Tip  Top  Summit  (the  high- 
est grade  oi  the  Brto  Bead,  being  1,700 
feet  abore  tide  water^  we  conimenoe 
the  descent  into  the  vwley  of  the  Ge- 
nesee. The  ooontry  has  but  few  marks 
of  humaa  habltatiim  to  pheer  Its  lonely, 
and  wildaspeci,  and  formany  miles  on- 
ward, our  way  continues  throu|^  a  de»- 
olate  forest  tract,  ahemated  onlj  by 
the  stations  and  Uttie  viUages  of  the 
road.  ifeTond  Cuba  Summit,  there  are 
many  brooks  and  i^ens  of  rugged  beauty. 

Passfaig  Olean,  on  the  AUeghany 
BItw,  we  come  into  the  lands  of  tho 
Indian  Beeerration,  where  we  follow 
the  wSd  banks  of  the  Alleghany,  be* 
tween  tofty  hills,  at  wild  and  deaokto 
asitsel£ 

At  Cattaraugus,  488  miles  from  New 
Tork,  and'  41  fi«m  Bunkiric,  we  tra- 
Terse  »  deep  TaDey,  where  the  eye  is 
relicTcd  for  *  Uttle  while,  with  scenee 
of  gentler  aspect  than  the  unbroken 
forest  we  haTC  long  traTcrsed,  and  are 
to  traTcrse  rtilL 


'    :l^    V 


^- 


iOm  to  a« 
AtOoridaf 
MUOtOor- 

toTktoRo- 

WMtfroil     i 
MlfAdOMH 

mriMQiTlll*, 

I  north,  fbr 
iiion.)  At 
fonrtliud 
MtOk  boiiif 
Tork»  Md 
rtlto  Don* 
thorettof 
w,  and  no 
grown  vp 
Ulonittlw 
lole  route, 
Bur  itiU,  «t 
IHomolla- 
tke  Oani»> 
wge,  ilUod 
e  Oaniaoa^  \ 
AIJM  lie 

InCtfeMMD. 

(thehigh- 
eing  1,700 
ooiumenoo 
of  theGe- 
few  ttwrlui 
r  it!  lonely, 
irmlleion- 
>uC^edee> 
1  only  by 
see  of  the 
,  there  ere 
ledbeeuty. 
Alleghany 
ids  of  the 
we  follow 
;heny,  be- 
1  desolate 

from  New 
u  we  tra* 
tiM  eye  la 
ith  aoenea 
unbroken 
d,  and  are 


i^^^^im^i'i0^^ 


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KSW  TOBK. 


148 


•  Dnikbrk— B«fUo  ntt  NtegMa  Bnuxih  «r  Brie  BailrMidk-Portag*, 


Three  miles  beyond  Perrysbure  we 
cstoh  our  firat  peep  »t  the  great  Erie 
waters,  towards  wUch  we  are  now 
rajddly  speeding.  Yet  a  few  miles, 
and  we  are  out  xtt  the  dreary  woods, 
oonrsing  again  through  the  more  habit- 
able Umds  which  Ue  upon  the  lakes. 

Beaching  Dnakiik  at  last,  we  may 
pursue  our  Journey  westward  by  any 
one  of  many  routes  by  land  and  by 
water— on  the  blue  waves,  or  still  upon 
the  rapid  nSL  We  shall  follow  all  these 
routes  in  other  pages— the  steamers  to 
Cleveland  or  Detroit,  or  the  lake  shore 
road  to  develand.  Thence  by  rul- 
way  to  Columbus,  and  (Hncinnati,  south- 
ward, or  to  Toledo,  westward.  From  To- 
ledo onward  by  the  Michigan  and  North* 
em  Indiana  Bailway  to  Chicago,  and 
thence  again  by  the  Rock  Island  Boad 
to  the  Mttdssippi,  or  by  the  Illinois  Cen- 
tral route  to  St.  Louis,  and  by  other  ways 
still  onward,  to  the  far  west.       * 

UTRW  TOBK  TO  BUFFALO  AND  NIA- 
OABA  FALLS. 

VIA  BUITALO  BRAXOH  OV  HIV  TOBK 
AHD  BBII  BAUBOAD. 

Follow  the  main  trunk  of  the  New 
York  and  Erie  Boad,  from  Jersey  City, 
831  miles  to  HomeUsrille,  N.  Y. 

Trains  continue  on  immediately  to 
BuflUo,  on  their  arrival  at  Homelisville, 
by  the  Branch  Boute,  formerly  the  New 
York  Caty  and  Buffalo  Bailroad. 
STATIONS. 

HoBMiLLSvitu ;  Bums,  9 ;  Whitney^s, 
18;  Swdnville,  17;  Nunda,  24;  Hunt's 
Hollow,  26;  PoBTAOB,  80;  Castile,  84; 
Gainesville,  87;  Warsaw,  44;  Middle- 
bury,  49;  Linden,  68;  Attica,  60; 
Darien,  64;  Alden,  71;  Town  Line,  76; 
Lancaster,  81 ;  Buffalo,  91. 

The  road  follows  by  tiie  side  of  the 
Dunkirk  track  through  the  village,  and 
then  bends  northward.  For  neuiy  SO 
miles,  tAong  very  elevated  ground,  there 
is  but  little  to  interest  the  tourist,  until 
he  comes  in  sight  of  the  village  of  Port- 
age, lying  in  a  deep  valley  to  the  north- 
west. 

Portagieis  deservedly  a  Mecca  to  the 
lover  of  the  picturesque,  abounding,  as 
it  does,  in  the  wildest  wonders  of  moun- 


tidn  gorge  and  cataract.  The  Genesee 
Biver  steals  and  tumbles  through  the 
lawns  and  raFinei  of  this  region  in  a 
very  wonderfiil  way.  At  Portage,  it 
enters  a  grand  rodcy  defile,  and  hi 
pasdnc,  fiuls  in  many  a  superb  cascade. 
Near  the  sti^on,  this  gorge  is  crossed 
by  the  railroad,  upon  a  bridge  of  great 
magnitude  and  remarkable  constrad- 
tionw  From  below,  it  rises  upon  the 
view  like  story  upon  story  of  solid  and 
gynunetrical  scaffolding,  to  a  height  of 
284  feet;  its  length  is  800  feet.  Be- 
neath its  huge  masses  of  timber,  foams 
the  river,  and  by  ite  angry  dde  are 
the  placid  waters  of  the  Genesee  Valley 
CanaL 

To  see  the  wonders  of  Portage  aright, 
one  must  tarry  for  days  in  the  village, 
or  better  yet,  at  the  hotel  near  we 
stetion  house. 

The  Genesee  makes  a  bold  descent 
of  40  feet  (seen  from  the  carsX  as  it 
rushes  beneath  the  great  bridge,  on- 
ward to  yet  deeper  beds.  A  quarter  of 
a  mile  northward  is  the  second  cata- 
ract of  80  feet;  huge  high  olifb  soar 
yet  far  above  it.  To  see  the  scene 
properly,  the  viidtor  will  cross  the 
bridge  over  the  Genesee  above  the 
milV  and  place  himself  immediately 
in  firont  of  the  &11. 

Some  distance  beyond,  a  staircase 
conducts  to  the  bottom  of  the  ravine, 
whence  vou  may  pass  in  a  boat,  or  j^ok 
your  way  along  beneath  the  spray  of 
the  tumbling  floods.  The  walls  of  this 
gorge  are  of  slate  stone;  they  rise 
to  a  height  of  more  than  300  feet,  and 
in  the  many  and  sudden  turnings  of  the 
way,  offer  a  grateful  succession  of 
noble  pictures. 

A  mile  and  a  half  still  down  the 
glen,  and  we  reach  the  third,  and,  per^ 
haps,  the  grandest  of  the  cascades ; 
placed  as  it  is  in  an  exceedingly  deep 
and  narrow  passage  of  the  ravine.  This 
leap  is  60  feet. 

The  canal  far  up  above  the  descend- 
ing bed  of  the  Genesee  in  this  vicinage, 
is  a  most  telling  feature  in  the  land- 
scape— a  strain  of  gentleness  in  the 
wild  anthem  of  the  ragged  ravine. 

We  leave  the  traveUer  here  to  pur> 


%. 


•Q?* 


144 


tntw  TOBX; 


n*  <MtklU  MonotiOM-BovtM-Moaatala  Hoom. 


V 


The  OstakOl  Mountain  Hoom. 


rae  the  rest  of  hia  way,  61  miles,  to 
BuffiUo,  and  to  go  thence  to  Niagara  or 
elsewhere,  as  he  may  find  directions  in 
other  parts  of  our  Hand  Book. 

NEW  TOBK  TO  THE  OATSKILL 
MOUNTAINS. 

We  can  commend  to  the  traveller  no 
pleasanter  or  more  profitable  summer 
excursion  for  a  day,  or  a  month,  or 
eren  a  season,  than  a  visit  to  the  Gats- 
kills— one  of  the  grandest  and  most 
picturesque  of  the  mountidn  ranges  of 
the  United  States. 

To.  reach  the  OatskiOs  from  New 
York  we  will  follow  our  previous  routes 
up  the  Hudson  to  the  village  of  Oats- 
kill  (111  miles),  or  the  river  railway  to 
Oakhill  station  opponte,  crossing  thence 
to  Gatskill  by  ferry. 

At  Catskill  good  stages  are  always  In 
waiting  to  convey  passenges  to  the 
Houn^n  House,  on  the  crest  of  the 
hills,  12  miles  westward.  This  ride  will 
occupy  about  four  hours,  at  a  cost  of 
one  to  one  and  a  quarter  dollars. 

Th*  Oatddlla  are  a  part  of  the 
gireat  Appalachian  chain  which  extiends 


through  all  the  eastern  portion  of  the 
Union,  from  Canada  to  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico.  Their  chief  ranges  follow  the 
course  of  the  Hudson  Biver,  from  some 
20  to  80  miles,  lying  west  of  it,  and 
separated  by  a  vaUey  stretch  of  10  to 
12  miles.  These  peaks  lend  to  all  the 
landscape  of  that  part  of  the  Hudson 
from  which  they  are  visible,  its  great- 
est charm. 

l%e  Mdnntalii  Boom  is  reached 
by  a  pleasant  stage  coach  ride  throu^ 
ever-changing  scenes  of  valley  and  hul. 
The  last  three  miles  of  the  journey  is 
up  the  side  of  the  mountain,  made  easy 
by  a  good  winding  way.  Within  a  mile 
of  his  destmation,  the  tourist  halts 
upon  the  spot  universally  conceded  to 
be  the  site  of  the  famous  16  years'  nap 
of  Mr.  Irving'^  myth,  Bip  Van  Winkle. 

The  Mountain  House  stands  near  the 
brink  of  some  bold  rocky  ledges,  upon 
the  summit  of  one  of  the  eastern/anges, 
commanding  all  the  landscape  round  for 
miles  and  miles  away.  Lifting  its  grand 
front  thus,  it  is  a  curious  and  wonderAd 
object,  no  less  within  its  own  shadow 
than  at  every  point  from  which  it  may 


mew  TOSK. 


146 


The  0»WUU»-JIIi*  Two  Lduw-Vk*  Blf^  IWIa. 


*\ 


ion  of  the 
9  Gulf  of 
follow  the 
!'rom  some 
»f  it,  and 
of  10  to 
to  an  th.e 
e  Hudson 
its  great- 

i  reached 
)  through 
J  and  hin. 
oumey  is 
Dade  easy 
tun  a  mile 
rist  halts 
needed  to 
rears'  nap 
1  Winkle. 
I  near  the 
ges,  upon 
rn/anges, 
round  for 
its  grand 
wonderful 
n  shadow 
>h  it  may 


be  seen.  It  is  a  masidTe  and  elegant 
Btraoture  of  wood,  with  a  grand  iacade 
of  columns  reacUng  the  entire  hei^^t 
of  the  eaTcs.  It  was  orif^nally  built 
by  the  people  of  Oatskill,  at  an  ex- 
penditure of  20,000  dollars ;  but  it  has 
(rince  been  from  time  to  time  enlarged 
and  improved,  until  now  it  possesses 
everr  reasonable,  if  not  every  possible, 
hotel  convenience  and  comfort— ca- 
pacious and  well-furnished  paiiors,  halls, 
and  chambers—a  luxorioua  table,  and 
attentive  hosta  and  writers  and  bath- 
ing, bilUard,  and  bowling  appointme&tR. 
In  tl^  samiJier  the  house  is  a  poit- 
ofllce,  with  dbily  mails. 

The  evveirb  panorama  of  the  river 
and  vaUeV ;  of  the  Hudson,  and  of  tiie 
New  Bnmmd  hill  iranges  to  the  east- 
wan^wpBJbt  tlra  bold  ute  of  the  Moun- 
tritt  fibiise  MMnmands,  Will  first  fix  the 
attentionk^ind  admiration  of  the  guest. 
Of  Hbkik  unrivalled  .tight  he  will  never 
weary,  so  varied  is  it  in  the  changing 
hours  and  atmospheres,  and  so  impos- 
ing under  every  aspect.  It  is  thought, 
at  the  dawn  of  the  day  and  at  the 
rising  of  the  sun,  when  his  ma^c  beams 
are  lifting  the  mystical  vapor  and  doud- 
eurtrin,  which  the  night  has  invisibly 
spread  over  the  scene,  that  the  enchant- 
ment will  reach  its  highest  point. 
Luckily  for  the  tourist  who  is  not  an 
enthusiast,  but  is  contented  with  the 
simple,  soud  &ct  of  a  subject,  like  Mr. 
Gradgrind,  these  marvellous  exhibitions 
of  sun-riae  effects  may  be  comfortably 
seen  from  his  warm,  secure  chambei^ 
window,  when  the  morning  air  is,  as  it 
often  chances  to  be,  at  this  mountain 
altitude,  rather  too  chill  and  damp  for 
comfoi^. 

A  visit  to  the  locality,  called  the 
**  North  Mountain,"  will  be  a  remuner- 
ative morning  or  liftemoon's  walk.  It  is 
only  a  mile  or  two  through  the  forest, 
on  the  lofty  ridge ;  but  a  guide  will  be 
desirable,  for  the  path  is  more  easily 
lost  than  found.  At  the  end  of  the 
stroll  he  will  look  back  upon  his  wilder- 
ness home  over  a  brace  of  dunty  little 
lakelets,  smilingly  sleeping  on  the 
mountun  top;  and  beyond,  towards 
the  south  and  east,  his  eye  will  follow 
7 


the  windings  of  the  Hudson  ikr  dolite 
in  tlie  sunny  valley.  Some  stories 
may  be  toldUm  of  the  fondness  of  the 
bear  for  thia  particular  locality^  but  he 
need  not  be  alarmed,  for  it  is  rarelv  in- 
deed, except  it  be  when  the  wmter 
snows  envelope  ^the  earth,  that  these 
gentry  are  about 

Another  agreeable  excursion  will  be 
in  the  omi^te  direction,  from  the 
house  to  tiie  shot  known  as  the  "  South 
Mountafai,"  where,  upon  the  brink  of 
huge  oliiEi,  may  be  seen  the  river  and 
valley,  and  the  wonderAil  pass  of  the 
Kauterskill,  through  the  mountain 
chain  westward. 

TlM  TfiFO  liahet,  which  we  have 
Just  overiookfd  from  tiie  North  Moun- 
tain, make  one  of  the  leading  itons  in 
the  OatskUl  proinrainme.  They  lie  side 
by  tide,  Ifti^tie  beauty,  in  the  heart 
of  tiw  lofty  j3a*e«a».  upon  the  eastern 
brink  of  wl&)^  ^  Monntain  House  is 
perched.  They  itanf  be  reaohtBd  in  a 
pleasant  littie  walk  back  of  the  hoteL 
Onwards,  and  on  the  way  to  the  Great 
Falls  of  the  KanterskUl^  a  few  minutes' 
stwU,  indeed,  is  sufficient  to  bring  ns  to 
the  nearest  of  these  twin  watersf  the 
Upper  or  Sylvan  Lake.  This  is  a  spot 
for  repeated  and  habitual  visits,  with  its 
pleasures  by  the  forest  shore;  in  the 
skiff,  upon  the  quiet  and  \on^\j  flood ; 
or,  with  angle  in  hand  and  trout  ui 
prMpect. 

Tb»  W^gbi  Falli  lie  two  ndles  back 
of  the  Mountain  House,  overleaping  the 
western  brink  of  the  great  plateau.  A 
wagon  road  leads  thither ;  and  there  is, 
betides,  a  footpath  in  the  forest,  by 
which  the  way  is  shortened  one  half. 
A  good  team  )A  sent  down  with  passen- 
gers  (fare  26  cents)  at  least  once  a  day 
from  the  hotel.  At  the  very  brink  of 
the  cascades  there  is  another  small  but 
pleasant  summer  inn,  called  the  Laurel 
House,  kept  by  Mr.  Scutt,  the  propri- 
etor of  the  Falls.  It  is  a  wonderfbl 
sight  to  overlook  the  ravine  below,  and 
the  giant  crests  of  iRound  Top  and  High 
Peak— the  proudest  of  all  these  hiUfH- 
from  the  windows,  or  piazzas  of  the 
Lanrel  House,  or  from  the  platf(Mrm  in 
fh>nt,  which  overhwigs  the  glen.    Thia 


ut 


TOPHF  TOBK. 


LdMOBtlMOiUddlta^ 


vi«w  eiffoyed,  with  refreshments  if  you 
please,  we  commence  the  descent  to  the 
bese  of  the  oatarMts,  by  many  straggling 
ffights  of  wooden  steps.  Coming  to  the 
base  of  the  first  Fall,  we  may  steal 
alooff  a  narrow  ledge  behind  the  de- 
soending  torrent,  as  one  gets  to  Termi- 
nation Rock,  at  magara.  On  the  op- 
porite  bank  parties  often  pic  idc,  the 
means  and  appUances,if  duly  ordered  be- 
fore  at  the  Laurel  Honse,  b^g  lowered 
A»wn,  upon  a  dgnal,  in  a  basket,  over 
the  edge  of  the  projecting  platform 
above.  Thejdescent  of  the  wst  cascade 
Is  175  feet,  and  of  the  second,  76  feet, 
with  many  a  tumble  of  tiie  rexed 
waters  afterwards  in  their  way  for  a 
n^  down  the  ravine  into  the  main 
branch  of  the  Kauterskill  or  Oatskill 
Creek,  which  dashes  down  the  great 
jOlove,  of  which  the  Mountahi  Hoose 
stream  is  oidy  an  arm  held  at  a  right 
aiMjle. 

Fenimore  Cooper,  In  his  story  of  the 
"moneer,"  thus  describes  these  cas- 
cades—" The  water  comes  croaking  and 
wintUng  among  the  rocks,  first,  so  slow 
that  a  trout  might  swim  in  it,  then 


startbg  and  runidng  like  any  oreator* 
that  wanted  to  make  a  &ir  simng,  tiU  it 

Sts  to  where  the  mountain  divides. liks). 
9  cleft  foot  of  a  deer,  leaving  a  dM^p 
hollow  for  the  brook  to  tomble  iate» 
The  first  {dtch  is  nigh  200  ii»et,  and  the 
water  1o<ncs  like  fiiStes  of  snow  before 
it  touches  the  bottom,  and  then  gatherer 
itself  together  agidn  for  a  new  start; 
and  maybe  flutters  over  00  feet  of  flat 
rock  before  it  fiiUs  for  another  100  feet, 
when  it  jumps  from  shelf  to  shelf,  first 
runidng  this  way  and  that  way,  striving 
to  get  out  of  the  hollow,  tiU  it  flually 
gets  to  the  plidn." 

This  branch  of  the  Kauterskill  come* 
firom  the  waters  of  the  two  lakes  on  the 
{dateau  above ;  and,  as  the  supj^y  has 
to  be  economised  in  or^er  that  the  ca»> 
cades  may  look  their  best  when  they 
have  company,  the  stream  is  dammed, 
and  the  fiood  is  let  on  at  proper  times 
only.  For  this  service,  and  for  the  use 
ol  the  steps,  perchance  of  guide  also^ 
every  visitor  pays  a  toll  of  25  cents.- 
This  is  a  reasonable  although  a  disagree- 
ablR  bit  of  prose  in  the  poem  of  the  Cats* 
kiUFails. 


msW-TOBK. 


ui 


BtOBjr  OloT*-Bt(h  PMk— PUatorUU  Clote. 


I  comet 

I  on  the 

Aj  has 

lie  cai^ 


cents. 


We  have  now  peeped  at  all  the  usual 
** rights'*  of  the  region;  but  there  are 
other  chapters  of  beauty,  perhaos,  yet 
more  inriting.  Let  the  tourist,  it  he  be 
adrenturous  and  is  a  true  loTer  of  nature, 
fi>liow  the  brook  down  firom  the  base  of 
the  cataracts  we  hare  Just  described, 
into  the  principal  oloye ;  then  let  him 
ascend  the  main  stream  for  a  mile  over 
hoffe  bouMers,  through  rank  woods, 
and  by  many  casoadep,  which,  if  smaller, 
are  stiU  more  pictoresqe  than  those 
*« nominated  in  the  bond;"  or,  let  him 
descend  the:  creek,  two  miles,  some- 
time! hj  Un*  edge  of  the  bed  of  the 
■watery  awi,  when  that  is  impracticable, 
by  the  tomplke  road,  which  trayerses 
the  grea*  eloye  or  pass.  At  every  turn 
and.step^Mlre-witl.bea  new  picture — 
sometiaiM,»«ai<|verrudd  or  fUl,  some- 
thnes  asoaiteg  mountain  difl.sometimes 
a  rude  J^aMgeaeross  the  foaming  torrent, 
sometimes  a  Qttle  hat  or  cottage,  wdd, 
at  lest,  as  he  comes  out  towards  )he 
▼alley  on  the  east,  the  humUe  Tillage 
of  Palenyille.  This  portion  of  the  Gats- 
Idlls  is  that  most  preferred  by  artists  for 
•tody,  and  the  inns  at  Palenyille  are 
Often  occupied  by  them,  though  they 
ofliBr  no  inyiting  accommodation  to  the 
ease  and  comfort4o^K  tourist. 

At  one  time  ^when  the  hemlock  was 
abundant  on  the  mountain  sides)  this 
oh>ye  was  a  den  of  tanneries,  and  a  few 
ettidriishments  of  the  Und  yet  linger 
here. 

'  Stony  Oxm,  Another  nice  excur- 
don  from  the  Mountain  House,  is  a  ride 
along  the  ridge  fiye  or  six  miles  to  the 
entrance  of  the  Stony  Glove,  and  thence 
on  foot,  or  stiU  in  your  yehiole  (though 
the  wagon  road  is  execrableX  through 
the  wilderness  of  this  fine  pass. 

SOgli  Peak,  the  most  elevated  of 
the  Gatakill  summits,  towering  4,000 
feet  towards  heaven,  should  certainly 
be  climbed,  in  order  to  see  the  re^on 
fidriy.  It  is  a  long  and  toilsome  jour- 
ney, especially  for  ladies — six  miles 
thHher  on  foot—bnt  we  have  accom- 
panied the  fairest  of  women  through 
the  difficulties  and  dangers  of  the  way. 
Once  we  "  assisted  "  at  a  night  camp  on 
the  very  crown  of  High  Peak,  pf  a  par- 


ty which  included  a  doien  damsels.  If 
they  had  not  been  brave,  as  thev  all 
were,ihey  would  not  have  deserved  the 
glorious  sunrise  efRscts,  which  they  saw 
never  to  bo  forgot,  from  their  ambi- 
tious bivouae.  Even  the  Mountaia 
Souse  on  its  grand  perch,  looked  from 
ish  Peak  like  a  pigmy  in  tiie  TfOe. 

FlantMrltin  O6onr%  is  another  grand 
pass  on  the  hiUs,  -five  miles  below  tie 
KauterskiU  passage.  A  moilntsin  toi- 
rent,  fbll  of  beauties  in  glen  and  rdck  and 
cascade,  winds  through  it.  Apqslroad 
also  trayerses  the  pass,  *  B%h  Peak 
rises  on  the  north  of  the  PUulsrkil!, 
apd  the  Soath  Ifoontain,  on  wUbh  is  a 
lovefjr  lake,  aabends  on  the  onpodte 
side.  It  is  not  yet  a  scene  of  much  rp^ 
sort,  beinff  out  of  the  v^y  CjOftiMnient 
reach  of  tiie  If  onntahi  Home,,  and  hav-. 
ing  no  hotel  attraetiont  in  Itaneil^boi*- 
hood. 

The  toniis^]k4ire  tfltveoall  with  plea»> 
ure,  Bryant's  didntv  poem  of  the  Kat- 
terskiUs,  from  which  we  will  borrow  a 
few  lines  to  end  our  own  intimations  •— 

**  Ifidrt  gTMBS  and  diailat  the  OattMSUlI  lM«>s 
From  oUffli  when  tli«  wood  flowar  oliofi ; 
All  sniiuBw  ho  molsteu  hla  verdant  stoops, 
With  tho  light  tfny  of  tho  monnnni 
ntrings; 
And  M  alulMS  tho  woods  on  tho  mooatala's 

aide. 
When  they  drip  with  tho  i|ins   of  thp 
aatonm  tide. 

**  Bnt  when  in  the  foieot  bsze  and  oM, , 

The  blsst  (*f  Deoember  oalls, 
He  builds  in  the  star-light,  dear  snd  eold, 

A  jwlsoe  of  ioe  whore  Ills  tomnf  lUb, 
With  tnrret  snd  ueh  and  liretwnrk  Mt^ 
AadpUlata  olear  as  the  soiiuner  air." 

The  Cataracts  of  the  GatskiUs  in  win- 
ter, when  the'  spray  is  frozen  into  a 
myriad  fantastic  forms,  all  glowing  liko 
the  prism  as  the  clear  cold  su^ght 
reveus  these  mystical  wonders,  is  a 
sight  so  grand  and  novel  as  to  well  re- 
pay the  exposure  and  fatigue  of  a  yirit 
thither  through  bleak  January's  snows 
and  ice. 

The  Mountain  House  is  then  dosed, 
but  Mr.  Scntt  inhabits  his  Laurel  but 
all  the  year,  we  believe.  This  is  a  hint 
to  the  enthusiast  in  the  search  for  the 
strange  and  beautifUl  in  Nature.    Most 


148 


VWW  TOSK* 
HirlMB  Banwftf-^WhlU  PUm— Dertr  PklMb 


tourists  wUl  oare  to  see  th^  Ostskills 
<Mdy  In  Julj  or  Ausust. 

Charges  ftt  the  Moimteln  House  are, 

as  In  most  of  the  flkshlonablo  summer 

-resorts  In  the  Unhed  States,  |S.80  per 

dajr.    At  the  Laurel  Inn,  by  the  High 

VnRs,  about  half  that  price,  we  belloTe. 

Stages  will  take  you  baok  to  Oatakill 
Tillage,  as  they  naTO  brought  you 
thenoe,  in  season  for  steamboats  and 
railways,  for  dsewhere. 

To  Tisit  the  Oatskllls  oomforUbly, 
three  days  will  suSUm  for  the  Journey 
thenoe  by  nA  from  New  York,  for  the 
stay  and  the  return  to  the  eity.  Not 
lew  than  four,  howerer,  ought  to  be 
thus  Inrested,  if  one  would  make  sure 
ot  a  satlsfkotory  dividend;  and  if  a 
week  is  at  command,  bo  much  the  hap- 
pier he  who  commands  it.  \ 


HEW  TOBK  TO  KLAASY. 
Via  HttrUm  JRailroad. 

This  Boute  eiitends  from  the  heart 
of  the  city  of  New  York  to  the  State 
ei^rfital,  skirting  in  it*  course  the  east- 
ern poraons  of  all  those  counties  lying 
VJjIflA  ^  fiudsOb  and  traversed  by  the 
liVer  railwav.  The  distanoe  between 
the  tennhii  is  168  miles,  being  six  miles 
nearer  to  Albany  than  that  of  the  Hud- 
son River.  Time,  about  the  same.  The 
stations  and  towns  upon  the  Harlem 
Boad  aire,  for  the  most  part,  inconsid- 
end:^  |>laceB,.many  of  them  having 
gr6im  voyfnth  the  road.  The  country 
passed  through  is  varied  and  ^ctur- 
esque  in  surfi|oe,  and  much  of  it  la  rich 

rioultural  liuxd.  It  does  not  compare 
tiie  river  route  in  .scenic  attrao- 


STATIONS. 

•  New  Tork— comer  of  White  anid 
Centre  street — Torkville,  6  miles ;  Har? 
Usnlj  7;  Mott  Haven,  8;  Melrose,  9; 
'Morrisuila,  10;  Tremont,  ll;  Ford- 
ham,  12;  William's  Bridge,  14;  ^nnc 
tlbn  of  the  N.  T.  and  N.  Haven  Road) 
Hunt's  Bridge,  IB;  Bronxville,  18; 
%okahoe,  19 ;  Soarsdale,  32 ;  Hart's 
Oomers,  24;  Whitk  Plaikb,  26;  Ken- 
shso,  29  \  Vnionville,  81;  Pleasantville, 


84;  Ohapequa,  86;  Mount  Kisco,  40; 
Bedford,  42 ;  WhitiockvUle,  45 ;  Golden 
Bridm,  47 ;  Purdy's,  40 ;  Oroton  Falls, 
61 ;  Brewster's,  66 ;  Bykeman's,  68 ; 
Towners,  61;  Patterson's,  68;  FawW 
Ings,  67 ;  South  Dover,  7t ;  Dover  Fur- 
nace, 76 ;  Dover  PUina,  80 ;  Wassaie, 
84 ;  Amenia,  88 ;  Sharon  Station,  91 ; 
Millerton,  06;  Mount  Riga,  80;  Boston 
Comers,  108;  Copake,  108;  Hillsdale, 
112;  Bains,  116;  Martindale,  118; 
Phihnont,  122;  Ohent,  128;  Chatham 
Foon  CoMTiBS,  180;  (Junction  with 
railway  route  from  Albany  and  from 
Hudson,  for  Boston)  Sast  Auamt,  168 


An  the  Stations  from  New  Tork  to 
White  ]P1ains  (86  mHes)  are  suburban, 
beins  escape  valves  of  the  over-grown 
popuation  of  the  city,  where  the  busi- 
ness of  the  principal  part  of  their  pqm- 
lation  Ues,  and  te  which  they  go  dally 
by  the  n^way.  Many  of  the  villages 
'are  i^oturesque,  pleasant  and  pros- 
perous. 

On  leaving  the  city  streets,  the  road 
passes  UDMr  a  oonsideraUe  extent 
of  tunnelling  and  continued  bridging 
across  thoroughfares  overhead,  maxing 
merry  diversimi  for  the  passenawrs.  At 
the  extremity  of  the  Island  and  dty  of 
New  Toric  at  Harlem,  the  road  crosses 
the  Harlem  Biver  Into  Westohester 
County. 

White  PltthiB  (Westehester  County), 
is  interesting  as  the  scene  of  important' 
evente  in  the  Bevolutitm.  An  eventftil 
battie  was  fought  here,  Oct.  28,  1776. 
Areridence  of  Washingten  (in  which 
are  some  attractive  relfos)  is  yet  stand- 
ing in  the  vicinage. 

Oroton  FnllSi  upon  tiie  river  whiefa 
supplys  the  great  Oroton  Aqueduct  to 
the  city  of  New  Tork. 

lmk»  Ifahopaa  Passengers  for 
I. ike  Mahopao  take  stage  thenoe  (dis- 
tance two  hours)  at  the  Croton  Falls 
Station.    See  ''  Lake  Mahopao." 

Dowor  naiu,  20  miles  east  of 
Poughkeepsie,  is  surrounded  by  much 
pleasing  landscape. 

For  Albany,  and  routes  thence  by 
Hudson  Biver  and  the  river  railway, 
see  Index. 


raw  TOBK. 
Btntogi  Bpriap— BontM. 


149 


■ASATOeA  BPBiires. 

From  New  Tork  hj  th«  Hudion 
RlTcr  rovte  to  Albuiy,  146  mU«i.  or  to 
Troj,  158  mOM.  From  Boiton  by  tlM 
Weitem  Railway;  through  SfMringtlold, 
SOO  nflM,  to  Albany.  Trom  JUbany 
by  rail  to .  Sehaneotady  and  Ballaton 
Sprlnga,  89  ndlaa,  to  Swatom;  or  from 
IVoy  on  the  Whitehall  Rdliray  route, 
through  Waterford,  and  connecting 
with  the  Albany  line  at  Ballaton,  88 
milea. 

Albany  JtpMM.— Starting  for  Saratoga 
from  Albany,  oar  roate  a*  Ikr  m  Scm- 
neotady  (17  milea)  is  on  the  Albany  and 
Schenectady  railway,  a  Unk  of  the  great 
**  Central**  road  to  Buflido,  and  the  reit 
of  the  way  (88  milea)  ii  vpon  the  Sarap 
toga  and  Schenectady  road.  LeaTins 
Sebenectady,  the  trayeller  la  in  ftill 
▼lew  of  the  beautlflil  Mohawk  Biver,  for 
about  four  milea.  He  then  aUrta  the 
banka  of  BaUaton  Lake,  and  entera  the 
▼Ulue  of  Ballaton  Spa. 
r<  21m  Jhtif  RtmU  connecta  with  the 
.  Albany  at  Ballaton,  and  the  line  thence 
to  Saratoga  ia  the  aame.  IVom  Troy 
the  touriat  followa  the  Renaaelaer  and 
Saratoga,  a  link  of  the  railway  to 
WhitenaU.  Thia  route  preaeata  mauT 
attraetlTO  acenea,  aa  it  croasea  and  fi>i> 
Iowa  the  Hudson  and  the  Mohawk 
Rivera,  aa  it  paasea  Waterford  at  Ae 
meetiiuK  of  theae  watera,  four  miles 
above  Troy,  and  near  the  Oohoea  Falls, 
a  muoh-«dtanired  and  frequevted  resort 
upon  the  Mohawk,  aa  it  thence  continues 
upon  the  west  bank  of  the  Hudson, 
eight  miles  further  to  MechaniosvUle. 
It  afterwards  crosses  the  canal,  passes 
Round  Lake,  and  enters  Buston, 
where  it  meets  the  Albany  tndns. 

Balltom  Bpn  Is  upon  the  Kayader- 
oflseros  Greek,  a  small  stream  which 
flows  through  the  viUage,  86  mUes  from 
Troy.  Its  mineral  waters,  which  were 
cUscovered  in  1769,  are  celebrated  for 
their  medidnal  qualities,  although  not 
so  popular  now  aa  they  were  formerly, 
those  of  Saratoga  beii^  now  jrenerally 
preferred.  The  Sana  Souei  Motel  is  a 
pleasai  s  house  near  the  centre  of  the 
TiUage. 


Fife  mHfti  diatant  is  tm§  Lak^,  n 
reaort  of  the  aMier.  Saratoga  Like  la 
aix  milea  |trom  BaflMon. 

iMnilOin  haa  been  for  many  years, 
and  Btill  18,  and  probably  always  wUl 
be,  the  most  fiunona  place  of  iUMiiwr 
reaort  hi  the  United  States,  frequented 
by  Americana  from  all  sections,  and  by 
foreign  tonriata  from  all  cUmatea.  Pur- 
big  the  height  of  the  ftahionable  aeaaon 
no  leaa  than  two  or  throe  thousand  arri* 
valsooeur  within  a  week.  There  is  noth- 
ing remariuble  about  the  topogMphy  or 
the  aeenery  of  Saratoga;  on  tne  contrary, 
the  spot  would  be  uninteresting  enough 
but  foK-the  vlrtueeof  Its  watera  and  the 
pleaanreaof  Ita  brilliant  aodety.  The 
viUage  streeta,  however,  are  grateftilly 
diaded  by  fine  treea,  and  a  little  "  let 
up**  in  the  my  whirl  may  be  got  on  the 
walka  and  lawna  of  the  pretty  rural 
cemetery  close  by. 

The  hotel  acciHnmodationa  and  com- 
forta  are  ample  here,  great  aa  are  the 
demands  of  the  ncnat  travel.  The 
most  eztenidve  and  the  most  dedred, 
are.  first,  the  United  Statea  and  the 
Union,  then  Oongreaa  Hall  and  the  Par 
Villon,  and  aftwwards  the  Adelphi, 
Washington  Hall,  the  Oolombbm,  the 
Raiboad  House,  and  the  Prospect  and 
Highland  Halls.  There  are  also  numer> 
oua  private  boarding-houses.  Board  at 
the  principal  hotels  is,  as  at  all  the  city 
houses  and  at  all  watering-placea  In  the 
Uidted  States,  from  two  to  three  d(4- 
lars  per  day. 

The  health-living  Springs  of  which 
the  fame  of  mratoga  has  been  born, 
however  much  Fashion  may  have  since 
nursed  it,  are  all  in  or  very  near  the 
village.  There  are  twelve  distinct 
waters  In  present  use,  but  the  most 
sought  after  of  aUare  those  of  {he  C!on- 
gross  Spring,  of  which  Dr.  Ohilton  gives 
us  an  analvds  thus: — One  gallon,  of 
281  cubic  mches— chloride  of  sodium, 
868.829  grains;  carbonate  of  soda, 
7.200;  carbonate  of  lime,  86,148;  car- 
bonate of  magnesia,  78.621 ;  carbonate 
of  iron,  .841 ;  sul^te  of  soda,  .661 ; 
iodine  of  sodium  and  bromide  of  pota»- 
dum,  6.920;  dlioa,  .472;  alumina, 
.821 ;  total,  648.998  grains.    Oarbonio 


160 


NBW  YORK. 


Santoga  Springs— Lake. 


Congress,  Spring,  Saratoga. 


acid,  284.66 ;  atmospheric  air,  6.41 : 
maldng  290.06  inches  of  gaseous  con- 
tcntat 

This  Spring  was  discovered  in  1*792, 
though  it  was  long  before  known  to 
and  esteemed  by  the  Indians. 

After  the  Congress  waters,  which 
are  bottled  and  sent  all  over  the  world, 
as  every  body  knows,  the  Springs  most 
in  favor  and  use  at  Saratoga  are  the 
Iodine,  the  High  Rock,  the  Honroe, 
Putnam's  Congress,  the  Flat  Rock,  the 
Hamilton,  the  Columbian,  and  the 
Washington.  The  Alpha  and  the  Omega 
of  the  daily  Saratoga  programme,  is  to 
diink  and  to  danc»— the  one  in  the 
earliest  possible  morning,  and  the  other 
at  the  latest  conceivable  night. 

Among  the  outside  diversions  of  the 
S:iratoga  folk  is  a  jaunt,  to  Saratoga 
Lake,  a  pleasant  water  tAx  miles  away. 
Here  they  have  nice  boating  fun,  and 
eo^netimes  '^rnake  believe "  to  fish. 
Tliis  lake  is  nine  miles  in  length  and 
very  near  three  in  width.  The  marshes 
around  it  prevent  access,  except  here 
and  there.  Snake  Hill  steps  into  the 
water,  and  lifts  up  its  head  20  feet  or 
so,  upor.  the  eastern  side  of  the  lake. 


"There  is,"  so  the  story  has  been 
told,  "  an  Indian  superstition  attached 
to  this  lake,  which  probably  had  its 
source  in  its  remarkable  loneliness  and 
tranquillity.  The  Mohawks  believed 
that  its  stillness  was  sacred  to  the  Great 
Spirit,  and  that  if  a  human  voice  uttered 
a  sound  upon  itc  waters,  the  canoe  of  ^ 
the  offender  would  instantly  tank.  An 
Englishwoman  once,  in  the  early  days 
of  the  settlers,  had  occasion  to  cross 
this  lake  with  a  party  of  Indians,  who, 
before  embarking,  warned  her,  most 
impressively,  of  the  spell.  It  was  a 
silent,  breathless  day,  and  the  canoe 
shot  over  the  smoo^  suifaoe  of  the 
lake  like  a  shadow.  About  a  mile  from 
the  shore,  near  the  centre  of  the  lake, 
the  woman,  willing  to  convince  the 
savages  of  the  wea^ess  of  their  super- 
stition, uttered  a  loud  cry.  The  coun- 
tenances  of  the  Indians  fell  instantly  to 
the  deepest  gloom.  After  a  moment's 
pause,  however,  they  redoubled  their 
exertions,  and,  in  frowning  silence, 
drove  the  light  bark  like  an  arrow  over 
the  waters.  They  reached  the  shore  in 
safety,  and  drew  up  the  canoe,  and  the 
woman  rallied  the  chief  upon  his  credn> 


KKW  TOBK. 


16il 


Bonto  to  Lake  Qeorg»— Oles's  Falla. 


litj.  'The  Great  Spirit  48  merciful,* 
answered  the  scomAU  Mohawlc,  *he 
knows  that  a  white  woman  cannot  hold 
her  tongue.^ " 

A  visit  to  Lake  George,  28  miles 
distant  by  rail  and  plank  road,  is  a  de- 
lightful  episode  and  variation  i^.  Sara- 
toga life.    See  Lake  George. 

LAKE    OEOBOB. 

The  route  from  New  York,  Boston, 
and  the  West,  to  Lake  George,  ia 
through  Saratoga,  and  thus-  far  is  the 
same  as  to  that  point ;  thence  to  Ho- 
reau  station,  16  miles,  by  the  Troy  and 
Whitehall  lin^,  and  from  there  to  Cald- 
well, at  the  south  end  or  head  of  the 
lake  by  plank  road. 

aien'i  Fklls,  in  the  Upper  Hudson, 
is  on  the  way,  nine  miles  from  the 
lake.  The  wild  and  rugged  Undscape 
is  in  striking  contrast  with  the  general 
air  of  the  country  below — there,  quiet 
pastoral  lands ;  here,  rugged  rock  and 
rushing  cataract.  This  is  a  spot  trebly 
interesting,  from  its  natural,  its  poetical, 
and  its  historical  character.  The  pas- 
sage of  the  river  ia  through  a  rude  ra- 


vine, in  a  mad  descent  of  76  feet  oivier 
a  rocky  precipice  900  feet  in  length. 
Within  tlje  roar  of  these  cataracts  were 
kdd  some  of  the  scenes  in  Cooper's 
story  of  the  "Last  of  the  Mohicans.** 
They  are  gently  associated  with  our 
romantic  memories  of  Uncas  and 
Hawk's  Eye,  David,  Duncan  Haywood 
and  his  sweet  wards,  Alice  and  Cora 
Monroe. 

When  within  four  ndles  of  the  lake, 
we  pass  a  dark  glen,  in  which  lie  hid* 
den  the  storied  waters  of  Bloody  Pond, 
and  close  by  is  the  historic  old  boulder 
remembered  as  William*^  Rock.  Near 
this  last-named  spot.  Colonel  Williams 
was  killed  in  an  engagement  with  the 
French  and  Indians,  Sept.  8,  1766. 
The  slain  in  this  unfortunate  battle 
were  cast  into  the  waters  near  by,  since 
called  Bloody  Fond.  It  is  now  quiet 
enough,  under  its  sur&ce  of  slime  and 
dank  lilies. 

The  first  broad  view  of  the  beautiful 
lake,  seen  suddenly  as  our  way  brings  us 
to  the  brink  of  the  high  lands,  above 
which  we  have  thus  far  tr&velled,  is  of 
surpassing  beauty,  scarcely  exceeded 


Lake  George,  N.  T. 


.=tf 


l';'y:..---r'-^'^^l 


HEW  TOBK. 


Lake  0«org«— Oaldwell— The  Nsnows— Sablwth  Day  Point 


E.  \ 


I    St. 


by  the  thoosand-and-one  marrels  of 
delight  which  we  afterwards  enjoy  in 
•U  we  long  traverse  of  the  fiunous  wa- 
ters. 

Our  road  now  descends  to  the  shore, 
thef  gleaming  floods  and  the  bine  clifb 
of  Soricon  still,  ever  and  anon,  filling 
our  charmed  eye.  We  halt  at  the  Lake 
House  at  Oaldwell  village,  or  at  the  Fort 
William  Henry  Hotel,  a  new  and  elegant 
establishment  near  by,  at  the  ruins  of 
the  Old  Fort,  on  the  right. 

About  a  mile  south-east  from  the  site 
of  Fort  William  Henry  are  the  ruins  of 
Fort  George.  These  localities  are  seen 
firom  the  piazza  of  the  Lake  House, 
which  commands  also  a  fine  view  of  the 
French  Mountain  and  Battle-Snake 
HiU,  and  of  the  isUnds  and  hills  down 
the  lake.  ) 

The  passage  of  Lake  George,  86 
miles,  to  the  landing  near  the  village 
of  Tlconderoga,  and  four  miles  from 
the  venerable  ruins  of  Fort  Tlcondero- 
ga, on  Lake  Ghamplain,  is  made  by 
rteamboat,*  the  trip  down  to  the  Fort 
and  back  occupying  the  day  very  de- 
lightfuUy. 

Leaving  Galdwell  after  breakfast,  we 
proceed  on  our  voyage  down  the  lake. 
The  first  spot  of  especial  interest  which 
we  pass  is  Diamond  Island,  iu  front  of 
Dunham  Bay.  Here,  in  1*777,  was  a 
military  depot  of  Burgoyne's  army,  and 
a  sldrmish  between  the  garrison  and  a 
detachment  of  American  troops. 

North  of  Diamond-  Isle,  Ues  Long 
Island,  in  front  of  Long  Point,  which 
extends  into  the  lake  from  the  east. 
Harris  Bay  lies  between  the  nortl^  side 
of  this  Point  and  the  mountains.  In 
this  bay  Montcalm  moored  his  boats 
and  landed,  in  1767. 

Dome  Island  is  passed,  in  the  centre 
of  the  lake,  some  12  miles  north  of 
Caldwell.  Putnam's  men  took  shelter 
here  while  he  went  to  apprise  General 
Webb  of  the  movements  of  the  enemy, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  North-West  bay. 
This  bay  lies  in  one  of  the  most  beaun- 

*  The  "John  Jay,**  wlitcb  has  plied  the  wa- 
tt/•  of  Lake  Oeoi^e  fbr  some  yean  past,  was 
f  linked  by  fire  in  the  summer  of  1866,  oppo- 
r  •  Oarfleld'a,  near  Sabbath  Day  Point 


ful  parts  of  Lake  George,  just  beyond  ; 
Bolton  Landing,  where  iJiere  is  an  in- 
viting place  of  sojourn  called  the  "  Mo« 
hican  House."  The  bay  extends  up  on 
the  west  of  the  Tongue  Mountain  some 
five  miles.  Oa  the  east  side  of  the  bay 
the  Tongue  Mountain  comes  in  literally 
like  a  tongue  of  the  lake,  into  the  centre 
of  which  it  seems. to  protrude,  with  the 
bay  on  one  (dde  and  the  mun  passage 
of  the  waters  on  the  other.  On  the 
right  or  east  shore  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, and  just  as  we  reach  the  Tongue 
and  enter  the  "Narrows,"  is  the  bold 
semic^olar  palisades  ctilled  Shelving 
Bock.  Paasing  this  picturesque  feature 
of  the  landscape,  and,  afterwards,  of  the 
point  of  the  Tongue  Mountain,  we  enter 
the  Narrows  at  the  base  of  the  boldest 
and  loftiest  shores  of  Horicon.  The 
chief  peak  of  the  hills  here,  is  that  of 
Bla^k  Mountain,  with  an  altitude  of 
2,200  feet.  The  islands  are  numerous, 
though  many  of  them  are  merely  peeps 
out  of  the  water.  The  best  fishing- 
grounds  of  Lake  George  are  in  that 
part  of  the  waters  which  we  have  al- 
ready passed,  in  the  vicinity  of  Bolton 
Landing,  Shelving  Rock,  and  thence  to 
Caldwell,  though  fine  trout  and  bass  are 
freely  caught  from  one  end  of  the  lake 
to  the  other. 

Sabbath  Day  Point.  Emerging 
from  the  Narrows,  on  the  north,  we 
approach  a  long  projecting  strip  of 
fertile  land,  called  Sabbath  Day  Point — 
80  named,  by  General  Abercrombie, 
from  his  having  embarked  his  array  on 
the  spot  on  Sunday  morning,  after  a 
halt  for  the  preceding  night.  The  spot 
is  remembered,  also,  as  the  scene  of  a 
fight,  in  1766,  between  the  colonists 
and  a  party  of  French  and  Indians. 
The  former,  sorely  pressed,  and  unable 
to  escape  across  the  lake,  made  a  bold 
defence  and  defeated  the  enemy,  killing 
very  many  of  their  men.  Yet,  again, 
in  1776,  Sabbath  Day  Point  was  the 
scene  of  a  battle  between  some  Ameri-. 
can  militia  and  a  party  of  Indians  and 
Tories,  when  the  latter  were  repulsed, 
and  some  40  of  their  number  were 
killed  and  wounded.  This  part  of 
Horicon  is  even  more  charmhig  ia  its 


m 


wt  beyond  ; 
)  is  an  iu- 
the<«Mo- 
sndfl  up  on 
itain  some 
of  the  bay 
In  literally 
the  centre 
I,  with  the 
n  passage 
On  the 
neighbor- 
le  Tongue 
the  bold 
Shelving 
le  feature 
ds,  of  the 
we  enter 
e  boldest 
on.    The 
is  that  of 
titude  of 
umerous, 
sly  peeps 
;  fishing- 
in  that 
have  al- 
f  Bolton 
hence  to 
bass  are 
the  lake 

merging 
Tth,  we 
strip  of 
Point — 
rombie, 
irniy  on 
after  a 
'he  spot 
ne  of  a 
olonists 
ndians. 
unable 
a  bold 
I  killing 
,  again, 
'as   the 
Ameri-, 
ns  and 
pulsed, 
r  were 
art    of 
;  ib  iti 


168 


H:. 


f  which  the 
rected  by  the 
y  them*' Oar- 
place  of  much 
jantages  were 
led  on  three 
ialfitsfourtl^ 
te  only  pokit 
,  }aohed,  hf  a 
irwards,  how- 
I  an  expedient 
hyne— that  of 
y  on  thei  fia.'^ 
j  on  the^sonth 
jutlet,  and  760 
I  entirely-  oom- 
Ouch  shot  wu 
f  the  enemy's 

Ei  was  one  of 
en  from  the 
mmenoement 
rar.  Colonel 
at  the  head  of 
snrprised  the 
)enetrated  to 
coitaiandiint, 

fded  the  sur^ 
whose  name, 
the  surprised 
i  of  the  great 
Itmental  Con- 
btrepid  Allen, 
jnediately  sur- 


Uland  NIA- 
|tMPLAIir. 

ttfblof  Ameri- 

«n  New  York, 

':e  Champlain, 

iver,  to  the 

by  the  lower 

>e  Erie  RaU- 

'ortland,  lines 

leniently  with 

A  thousand 

istfallwithfai 

ley;  besides 

luring   aiiidea, 

id. 
le,    take   tho 
Montreal  (or 
;on,    take  the 
ontreal  Boutes. 


152 


prooe 

Thef 

we  IN 

Dunfa 

milita 

askir 

detacl 

Noi 

Isbuid 

exten< 

Harri^ 

of  tbij 

this  h\ 

and  If^ 

Dod 

of  thi 

Oaldw 

here  4 

Webb[ 

at  th( 

This 


mmti 


2pine 


tyff 


Wi 


»ot 


Ui 


ifi 


<a)i 


1*5 


*P 


m 


(/) 


<a)i 


Ui 


cB» 


KBW  YOBK. 


158 


GulMd**— Tieondarog»— New  Tork  to  MontrMl. 


piotnni,  both*  up  and  down  the  lake, 
tiiAnit  is  in  its  numerooB  hiatorieal  re- 
miniaoenceB.  On  a  calm  sunny  day  the 
romantic  passage  of  the  Narrows,  as 
seen  to  the  southward,  is  wonderfully 
fine ;  while,  In  the  oppodte  direction, 
the  broad  bar,  entered  as  the  boat 
passes  Sabbath  Day  Pohit,  and  the  sum- 
mer knding  and  hotel  at  "  OarfieldV' 
are  soon  to  be  abruptly  dosed  on  the 
north  bv  the  huge  precif^ces  of  An- 
thony^s  Nose  on  the  nght,  and  Rogers' 
Slide  on  tiie  left.  This  pass  is  not  un- 
like that  of  the  Highlands  of  the  Hudson 
as  approached  firom  the  south. 

RqgMni'  Slid*  is  a  rugged  prom- 
ontoiy,  about  400  feet  high,  with  a 
steep  fiftoe  'of  bare  rock,  down  which 
thf  Indians,  to  their  great  bewilder- 
ment, suppoiaed  the  bold  ranger,  Mqor 
Sogers,  to  have  passed,  when  tiiev  pur- 
cued  huii  to  iit»  blink  of  the  precipice. 

Two  miles  beyond  is  Friaoner'a  hU 
ond^  where,  daring  the  French  war, 
l^ose  taken  captiye  by  the  English 
were  confined;  and  directly  west  is 
Lord  Howe^t  Point,  where  the  English 
army,  under  Lord  Howe,  consisting  of 
16,000  men,  landed  prcTious  to  tlie  at- 
tack on  Ticonderoga.  We  now  ap- 
proach the  termination  of  our  ezcurtdon 
on  Uiis  beautifiil  lake,  and  in  a  mile 
reach  the  steamboat  landing  near  the 
Tillage  of  JUonthnpa,  whence  stages 
run  a  cUstanoe  of  three  miles,  over  a 
roueh  and  romantic  roa^,  to  Fort  7t- 
eoMtroga — ^f<dlowing  the  wild  course  of 
the  passage,  by  which  Horicon  reaches 
the  waters  of  Lake  Champlain — a  pas- 
sage ML  of  bold  rainds  and  striking 
cascades. 

After  exi^oring  the  i^turesque  ruins 
of  the  ancient  fort,  and  dining  satisfius- 
torily  at  the  excellent  hotel,  which 
stands  upon  the  marge  of  a  beautiful 
lawn,  sloi^g  to  the  Champlain  shore, 
our  stage  wiU  take  us  back  to  the 
landing  we  have  left  on  Lake  George, 
and  our  steamboat  thence  to  Caldwell 
agaui,  in  time  for  tea  and  a  moonlight 
row  among  the  countless  green  isles ;  or 
we  may  take  the  Champlain  boat  to 
Whitehall ;  or  from  Whitehall  en  route 
for  Canada. 

7* 


^ 


Tott  Tlooiid«roga|  of  which  the 
ruins  o^y  are  visible,  was  erected  by  the 
iVench  inlfSO,  and  called  by  them  **  Car> 
rillon."  It  was  originally  a  place  of  much 
strength;  its  natural  advantages  were 
very  great,  being  surrounded  on  three 
rides  by  water,  and  having  half  its  fourtl^ 
covered  by  a  swamp,  and  the  only  point 
by  which  it  could  be  approached,  by  a 
breastwork.  It  was  afterwards,  how- 
ever, earily  reduced,  by  an  expedient 
adopted  by  General  Burgoyne — ^that  of 
placing  a  piece  of  artillery  on  the  pin^ 
nacle  of  MoutU  Ihfianee,  on  the  south 
ride  of  the  I<&ke  George  outlet,  and  760 
feet  above  the  bke,  and  entirely  oom- 
man^g  the  fort,  from  which  shot  was 
thrown  into  the  midst  of  the  enemy's 
works.  Fort  Ticonderoga  was  one  of 
the  first  strongholds  ti^en  from  the 
English  in  1776,  at  the  commencement 
of  the  Revolutionary  war.  Colonel 
Ethan  Men,  of  Vermont,  at  the  head  of 
theGreen  Ifountrin  Boys,  surprised  the 
unsuspecting  garrison,  penetrated  to 
the  very  bedride  of  the  coAmandant, 
and  waldng  him,  demanded  the  sur^ 
render  of  the  fort.  **  In  whose  name, 
and  to  whom  ?"  exclaimed  the  surprised 
officer.-— '*  In  the  name  of  the  great 
Jehovah,  and  the  Continental  Con- 
gress t"  thundered  the  intrepid  Allen, 
and  the  fort  was  immediately  sur> 
rendered. 

:new  tobk  to  montbeal  and  nu- 

OABA,  via  LAKB  CHAMPLAIN. 

One  of  the  most  delightful  of  Ameri- 
can summer  tours  is  from  New  Tork, 
via  the  Hudson  Kver,  Lake  Champlain, 
and  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  to  the 
Falls  of  Niagara,  returning  by  the  lower 
routes — ^the  Central  or  the  Erie  Bidl- 
ways.  From  Boston  and  Portland,  lines 
of  railroad  connect  conveniently  with 
the  St.  Lawrence  routes.  A  thousand 
places  and  objects  of  interest  fall  within 
the  direct  line  of  this  journey ;  berides 
which,  it  has  many  alluring  aAdes, 
which  may  be  readily  reached. 

From  Portland,  Maine,  take  the 
Grand  Trunk  Route,  to  Montreal  (or 
to  Quebec) — ^from  Boston,  take  tiie 
Boston,  Concord,  and  Montreal  Routes. 


154 


NBW  TOBK. 


N«w  York  to  lC<mtr««l  vU  Lak«  Ouunplalit— WUtehalL 


From  New  Tork  take  tke  'Hadson 
RiTor  Route,  which  we  hare  already 
travelled,  to  Albany  and  Troy ;  thence, 
by  rail,  J]m  Saratopi  Springs,  to  White- 
hall, at  the  southern  extremity  of  Lake 
Ohamplain.  We  resume  the  programme 
at  Moreau  Station,  on  thu  une,  to 
which  point  we  have  already  followed  it 
in  our  visit  to  Lake  Oeorge.  Ai  Ti- 
oonderoga,  above,  on  Lake  Ohamphdn, 
wo  shall  meet  those  who  prefer,  as 
many  do,  to  pursue  the  journey  to  that 
point,  hj  the  way  of  Lake  Oeorge,  in- 
•tead  of  via  Whitehall  and  the  lower 
end  of  Ghampliun. 

To  Whitehall  the  dbuntry  is  exceed- 
ingly attractive,  much  of  the  way,  in  its 
quiet,  sunny,  valley  beauty,  watered  by 
pleasant  streams,  and  envuroned,  in  the 
distance,  by  picturesque  hills.  *  The 
Champltdn  Canal  is  a  continual  object 
of  interest  by  the  way ;  and  there  are, 
also,  as  in  aU  the  long  Journey  before 
us,  everywhere  spots  of  deep  historic 
charm,  u  we  could  tarry  to  read  their 
Rtorieft— %f  the  memorable  incidents 
which  they  witnessed,    both   in   the 


French  and  Indian,  and  afterwards  in 
the  Bevolutionajnr  war.  In  the  valley 
regions  of  the  Hudson,  which  lie  bo> 
tween  Albany  and  Lake  Ohampldn,  are 
many  scenes  famous  for  the  struggles 
between  the  Golonists  and  Great  Bntain 
--4he  battle-grounds  of  Bemis  Heights 
an^  Stillwater  (villages  of  the  Upper 
Hudson),  and  of  Saratoga,  which  ended 
hi  the  defeat  of  Burgoyne  and  his 
army.  Then  there  is  the  tale  of  the 
melancholy  fate  of  Jane  M'Orea,  so 
cruelly  murdered  by  the  Indians  at 
Fort  Edward;  and  many  histories, 
which  it  is  pleasant  to  recall  ever  so 
vaguely,  as  we  pass  along. 

WmteliaU  was  a  point  of  much  con- 
sideration during  the  French  and  Indian 
war,  and  through  the  Revolution.  In 
former  times  it  was  called  Skenea* 
borough.  It  is  at  the  south  end  or  the 
head  of  Lake  Champltun,  within  a  rude 
rocky  ravine,  at  the  foot  of  Skene's 
Mountain.  Its  position,  as  a  meeting- 
place  of  great  highways  of  travel, 
has  made  it  quite  a  bustling  and 
prosperous  village.    There  is  nothing 


TAke  Champlaln,  N.  T. 


'f-fC 


irXW  YORK. 


105 


Lake  Oluunplaltt— TIm  W«U«d  Banks  of  tha  ▲1u«bI^— Battle  at  Flattabors. 

BarUiigtoii,  the  largest  town  on  tjbie 
lake,  is  upon  the  eastern  or  Vermont 


in  the  Ticinage,  however,  to  delay 
the  traveller.  From  Wlalehall  our 
journey  lies  down  Lake  Champlain,  166 
miles, .  to  St.  Johns,  though  we  might, 
instead,  go  by  railway  through  Ver- 
mont, via  Castleton,  Rutland,  Burling- 
ton, &o.,  to  Rouse's  Point,  and  thence, 
■till  by  railway,  to  Montreal. 

The  narrowness  of  the  lower  part  of 
Lake  Champlain  gives  it  much  more  of 
a  river  than  lake  air.  For  20  miles  the 
average  breadth  does  not  exceed  half 
a  mile ;  and,  atone  point,  it  is  not  more 
than  40  rods  across.  However  it  grows 
wide  enough  as  we  pass  Ticonderoga,* 
where  passengers  by  the  Lake  George 
ditour  are  picked  up,  and  in  the  vicinity 
of  Burlington  there  are  too  many  broad 
miles  between  the  shores  for  picturesque 
uses.  Whether  it  is  broad  though  or 
narrow,  the  voyage,  in  large  and  ad- 
mhrabte  boats,  over  its  mountain-envi- 
roned waters,  is  always  a  pleasure  to  be 
greatly  enjoyed  and  happily  remember- 
ed. On  the  east  rise  the  bare  peaks  of 
the  Green  Hills  of  Vermont,  the  bold 
Gamers  Hump  leading  all  the  long  line ; 
and  on  the  west  are  the  still  m.ore  varied 
summits  and  ridges  of  the  Adirondack 
Mountains  in  New  York. 

Mount  Independenoe  lies  in  Ver- 
mont, opposite  Ticonderoga,  about  a 
mile  distant.  The  remains  of  military 
works  are  still  visible  here. — Mwmt 
Hope,  an  elevation  about  a  mile  north 
from  Ticonderoga,  was  occupied  by 
General  Burgoyne  previous  to  the  re- 
capture of  Ticonderoga,  which  took 
place  in  1777,  nearly  two  years  after  its 
surrender  to  the  gallant  Allen.  St 
Clair,  the  American  commander,  being 
forced  to  evacuate,  it  agam  fell  into  the 
possesmon  of  the  British,  and  was  held 
during  the  war. 

Not  far  above,  and  upon  the  opposite 
shore,  is  the  village  of  Crown  Point; 
and,  just  beyond,  the  pictureique  and 
well-preserved  ruins  of  th^fortifications 
of  the  same  name.  Opposite  is  Chim- 
ney Point ;  and,  just  above,  on  the  left, 
at  the  mouth  of  Bulwaggy  Bay,  is  Port 
Henry. 

*  See  Lake  George  for  "  Bnina  of  Fort  Tl- 
eonderoga. 


shore,  about  midway  between  White- 
halfand  St.  Johns.  Rising  gradually  to 
an  elevation  of  several  hundred  net, 
it  is  imposingly  seen  from  the  water. 
It  is  the  seat  of  the  University  of  Ver- 
mont, and  is  a  place  of  much  commer- 
cial importance,  connected  by  railways 
with  all  parts  of  the  country.  Across 
the  lake  is 

Port  Kant,  from  which  vicinity, 
whether  on  land  or  on  water,  the  hind- 
scape  in  every  direction  is  exceeding 
striking  and  beautiful. 

Tho  Walled  Baaln  of  th*  AoMblOi 
The  remarkable  Walled  Banks  of  the 
Ausable  are  a  mile  or  two  west  of  Port 
Kent,  on  the  way  to  the  manufacturing 
village  of  Keeseville. 

It  is  at  the  Ausable  House,  an  excel- 
lent summer  hotel  in  the  picturesque 
village  of  Keeseville,  that  the  tiaveUer 
will  establish  himself,  if  he  would  visit 
this  wonderfiil  ravine,  with  its  grand 
walls  and  its  rushing  waters.  The  FaUs 
of  the  Ausable,  though  they  are  but 
little  known  as  yet,  will  one  day  be  es- 
teemed among  the  chief  natural  wonders 
of  the  country. 

Flatttbnzg.  Above  and  opposite 
Burlington  is  the  pleasant  village  of 
Plattsburg,  where  the  Saranac  river 
comes  in  from  its  lake-dotted  home,  at 
the  edge  of  the  great  wilderness  of 
northern  New  York,  80  miles  west- 
ward. 

Battle  of  Lake  Ohamplain.  Platts- 
burg Was  the  scene  of  the  victory  of 
M'Donough  and  Macomb  over  the 
British  naval  and  land  forces,  under 
Commodore  Downie  and,  Sir  George 
Provost.  Here  the  American  com- 
modore awaited  at  anchor  the  arrival 
of  the  British  fleet,  which  passed  Cum- 
berland Head  about  eight  in  the  morn- 
ing of  the  11th  September,  1814,  The 
first  gun  from  the  fleet  was  the  signal 
for  commencing  the  attack  on  knd. 
Sir  George  Provost,  with  about  14,000 
men,  furiously  assaulted  the  defences  of 
the  town,  whilst  the  battle  raged  1)e- 
tween  the  fleets,  in  full  view  of  the 
armies.    Gener<d  Macomb,  with  about 


156 


HBW  TOBX. 


BontM  to  TrantoB  Falla. 


■i#5*yr>^ 


:^trf?rff'^: 


^^-^  '••v; 


IJSti!*>\«V'T'^ 


'^•/  v:'" 


Trenton  Fallf,  N.  T. 


8,000  men,  mostly  undisciplined,  foiled 
the  repeated  assaults  of  the  enemy; 
until  the  capture  of  the  British  fleet, 
after  an  action  of  two  hours,  obUged 
him  to  retire,  with  the  loss  of  2,600 
men  and  a  large  portion  of  his  baggage 
and  ammunition.  Here  we  might  land 
and  take  the  Plattsburg  and  Montreal 
Bailway,  62  miles  direct  to  MontreaL 

Rowm's  PolBt,  on  the  west  side  of 
the  lalce,  is  the  last  landing-place  before 
we  enter  Canada.  Railways  from  the 
Eastern  States,  through  Vermont,  come 
in  here,  and  are  prolonged  by  the 
Ghamplain  and  St.  Lawrence  .road  to 
Montreal  If  the  traveller  towards 
Canada  continues  his  journey,  neither 
via  Plattsburg  nor  Rouse^s  Point,  he 
may  go  on  by  steamboat  to  the  head  of 
navigation  on  these  waters  to  St.  Johns, 
and  thence  by  Lachine  to  Montreal. 

See  Canada  for  the  tour  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  and  Lake  Ontario  from  Mont- 
real to  Niagara. 

NEW  YORK  TO  TEENTON  FALLS. 

Fia  Budson  River  to  Albany,  thence  hy  like 
Ifew  York  Central  BcMroad  <u  far  as 
Utiea^  and  thence,  over  a  plank  road,  or 
Jty  Bail  Road,  16  mUet. 

Trenton  Z'aUs,  says  Mr.  Willis,  '*iB 


the  most  enjovahly  btmUiful  spot  among 
the  resorts  of  romantic  scenery  in  our 
country.  The  remembrance  of  its  love- 
Uness  becomes  a  bright  point,  to  which 
dream  and  reverie  oftenest  return.  It 
seems  to  be  curiously  adapted  to  eqjoy, 
being  somehow,  not  only  the  kind  but 
the  aixe  of  a  place  which  the  (after  all) 
meatterable  arms  of  a  mortal  heart  can 
hold  in  its  embrace.  Niagara  is  too 
much,  as  a  roasted  ox  is  a  thing  to  go 
and  look  at,  though  one  retires  to  dine 
on  something  smtdler." 

Trenton  Falls  is  the  place,  above  all 
others,  where  it  is  a  luxury  to  vtay—- 
which  one  oftenest  revisits,  which  one 
most  commends  to  strangers  to  be  sure 
to  see. 

"  In  the  long  corridor  of  travel  be- 
tween New  York  and  Niagara, "  Trenton, 
Mr.  Willis  says  again,  "  is  a  sort  of  al- 
cove aside— 4  side-scene  out  of  earshot 
of  the  crowd — a  recess  in  a  window, 
whither  you  draw  a  friend  by  the  but- 
ton for  the  sake  of  chit-chat  at  ease." 

Trenton  Falls  is  rather  a  misnomer, 
for  the  wonder  of  nature  which  bears 
the  name  is  a  tremendous  torrent, 
whose  bed,  for  several  miles,  is  sunk 
fadioms  deep  into  the  earth— a  roaring 


IP*, 


mSW  TOBK. 


m 


TnntonFaUa. 


• 


h 


and  dashing  stream,  so  far  beloir  the 
Bttrfuce  of  the  forest,  in  which  it  is  lost, 
that  you  would  think,  as  you  oome  sud- 
denly upon  the  edge  of  its  long  preci- 
pice, that  it  was  a  river  in  some  inner 
world  (coiled  within  ours,  as  we  in  the 
outer  circle  of  the  firmament),  and  laid 
open  foy  some  Titanic  throe  that  had 
craolcea  clear  asunder  the  crust  of  this 
*' shallow  earth.**  The  idea  is  rather 
assisted  if  you  happen  to  see  below  you, 
on  its  abysmal  shore,  a  party  of  adyen- 
turous  trayeUers ;  for  at  that  yast  depth, 
and  in  contrast  with  the  gigantic  trees 
and  rocks,  the  same  number  of  well- 
shaped  pismires,  dressed  in  the  last 
fashion,  and  philandering  upon  your 
parlor  floor,  would  be  about  of  their 
apparent  rise  and  distinctness. 

Trenton  Falls  are  upon  the  West 
Oanada  Creek,  a  branch  of  the  Mohawk. 
The  descent  of  the  stream,  8i2  feet  in 
a  distance  of  two  miles,  is  by  a  series 
of  half  a  dozen  cataracts,  of  wonderful 
yariety  and  beauty.  Every  facility  of 
path  and  stairway,  and  guide,  for  the 
tour  of  the  Trenton  ravine  has  been 
provided  by  Mr.  Moore,  who  has  for 
many  years  resided  on  the  spot,  and 
been  always  its  Prospero,  and  its  favor- 
ite host. 

A  walk  of  a  few  rods  through  the 
woods  brings  the  visitor  to  the  brink 
of  the  precipice,  descended  by  secure 
stairways  for  some  hundred  feet. 

The  landing  is  a  broad  pavement, 
level  with  the  water's  edge,  often,  in 
times  of  freshet,  the  bed  of  foaming 
floods.  Here  is  commanded  a  fine  view 
of  the  outlet  of  the  chasm,  46  rods  be- 
low, and  also  of  the  first  cascade,  87 
rods  up  the  stream. 

The  parapet  of  the  First  Fall,  visible 
from  the  foot  of  the  stairs,  is,  in  dry 
times,  a  naked  perpendicular  rock,  88 
feet  l^igh,  apparently  extending  quite 
across  the  chasm,  the  water  retiring  to 
the  left  and  being  hid  from  the  eye  by 
intervening  prominences.  But  in  fresh- 
ets, or  after  rain,  it  foams  over,  from 
the  one  side  of  the  gorge  to  the  other, 
in  a  broad  amber  sheet.  A  pathway 
to  this  fall  has  been  blasted  at  a  con- 
siderable cost,  under  an  overhanging 


rook  and  around  an  extensive  proJeo> 
tion,  directly  beneath  which  naen  and 
roars  a  most  violent  rapid.  The  pas- 
sage, though  at  first  of  dangerpus  aspect, 
is  made  secure  by  chains  well  riveted 
in  the  rocky  wall.    In  the  midst  of  this 

Erojeotion,  five  tons  were  thrown  over 
y  a  fortunate  bUtst,  affording  a  perfect- 
ly  level  and  broad  spaoe,  where  16  or 
20  persons  may  find  ample  footing,  and 
command  a  noble  view  of  the  entire 
scene.  A  little  to  the  left,  the  rapid 
commences  its  wild  career.  Directly 
underneath,  it  rages  and  foams  with 
great  fury,  forcing  a  tortuous  passage 
into  the  expapded  stream  on  the  right. 
In  front  is  a  projection  ftom  the  otner 
side,  curved  fb  a  concavity  of  a  semi- 
circle by  the  impetuous  waters.  The  > 
top  of  this  projection  has  been  swept 
away,  and  is  entirely  flat,  exhibiting 
from  its  surface  downwards,  the  sepa- 
rate strata  as  regular  and  distinct,  and 
as  horizontal  as  mason-work  in  the  lock 
of  the  grand  caniJ.  Here,  in  the  old 
time,  was  a  lofty  fall,  now  reduced  to 
the  rapid  we  have  described. 

Beyond,  masmve  rocks,  thrown  over 
in  flood  times,  lie  piled  up  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  river.  Passing  to  the  left, 
yet  a  few  rods  above,  we  come  into  the 
presence  of  Sherman's  Fall,  so  named 
in  memory  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Sherman, 
whose  account  of  the  spot  we  are  now 
closely  following.  He  was  one  of  the 
earliest  pioneers  of  the  Trenton  beau- 
ties, and  it  was  by  him  that  the  first 
house,  called  the  "Rural  Resort,"  for 
the  accommodation  of  visitors,  was 
built.  It  has  formed  an  immense  ex- 
cavation, having  thrown  out  thousands 
of  tons  from  the  parapet  rock,  visible 
at  the  stairs,  and  is  annually  forcing 
off  slabs  at  the  west  comer,  against 
which  it  incessantly  forces  a  section  of 
its  powerful  sheet.  A  naked  mass  of 
rock,  extending  up  160  feet,  juts  frown- 
ingly  forward,  which  is  ascended  by 
natural  steps  to  a  point  from  which  the 
visitor  looks  securely  down  upon  the 
rushing  waters. 

Leaving  this  rocky  shelf,  and  passing 
a  wild  rapid,  we  come  suddenly  in  sight 
of  the  High  Falls,  40  rods  beyond. — 


158 


HXW  TOSK. 


TnatoB  VaUib 


Trenton  Falls,  N.  T. 


iSf«t' 


This  cascade  has  a  perpendicular  de- 
scent of  100  feet,  while  the  clifb  on 
either  iride,  rise  some  80  feet  yet  higher. 
The  whole  body  of  water  makes  its  way 
at  tUs  point— HJUvided  by  intervening 
ledges  into  separate  cataracts,  which 
iUl  first  about  40  feet,  then  reuniting 
on  a  flat  below,  and  veering  suddenly 
around  an  inoUnation  of  rocky  steps, 
they  plunge  into  the  dark  caldron 
beneath. 

Passing  up  at  the  dde,  we  mount  a 
grand  level,  where  in  mj  times  the 
stream  retires  to  the  right  and  opens  a 
wide  pavement  for  a  large  party  to 
walk  abreast.  Here  a  fli^t  of  stairs 
leads  to  a  refreshment  house,  called  the 
Rural  Retreat,  20  feet  above  the  sum- 
mit  of  the  High  Falls. 

The  opening  of  tne  chasm  now  be- 
comes considerably  enlarged,  and  a  new 
variety  of  scene  occurs.  Mill  Dam  Fall, 
14  feet  high,  lies  some  distance  beyond, 
reaching  across  the  whole  breadth  of 
the  chasm. 

Ascending  this  Fall  the  visitor  comes 
to  a  still  larger  platform  of  level  rock, 
16  rods  wide  at  low  water,  and  90  in 


length,  Uned  on  each  side  by  cedars. 
At  the  extremity  of  this  locality,  which 
is  known  as  the  Alhambra,  a  bare  rock 
60  feet  in  height  reaches  gradually  for 
ward  from  the  mid-distance ;  and,  from 
its  shelvinar  top,  there  descends  % 
perpetual  lill,  which  forms  a  natural 
shower-bath.  A  wild  cataract  fills  the 
picture  on  the  left. 

Here  the  wide  opeidng  suddenly  con- 
tracts and  a  narrow  aperture  only 
remains,  with  vistas  of  wmding  moun- 
tain, cUff  and  crag.  Near  by  &  a  dark 
basin,  where  the  waters  rest  from  the 
turmoil  of  the  wild  cascade  above.  In 
this  vicinage  is  an  amj^theatre  of 
seemingly  Impossible  access,  replete 
with  even  new  surprises  aad  delights. 
Tet  beyond,  is  the  Rocky  Heart,  the 
poini  at  which  the  traverse  of  the 
ravine  usually  ends,  though  despite  the 
diflSculties  and  dangers  of  the  way,  even 
ladies  frequently  penetrate  beyond  as 
far  as  the  falls  at  Boon's  Bridge,  the 
terminus  of  the  gorge. 

The  scene  at  Trenton  varies  much, 
according  as  drought  or  freshet  dries 
or  fills  the  stream,  and  passages  are 


WKW  YORK. 


159 


cedars. 
,  which 
re  rock 
illy  for  ' 
ffrom 
sends  » 
natural 
fills  the 

y  con- 
only 
moon* 
a  dark 
om  the 
ve.    In 
tre  of 
replete 
Blights, 
rt,  the 
of  the 
>ite  the 
t,  even 
ond  as 
ge,  the 

mnch, 
t  dries 
res  are 


N«w  York  to  BaMr  ^7  the  Oentral  Hallway. 


easy  enough  at  one  time,  which   Are 
utterly  impracticable  at  others.  Itiadif^ 
flcult  to  saT  when  the  glen  is  the  most 
bca«tii\il,  whether  with  much  or  with  ^ 
little  water. 

Trout  once  inhabited  these  waters, 
but  they  are  gone  now.  Game,  too, 
is  scarce  in  the  Ticinaffe,  though  par- 
tridgea,  wild  ducks,  snipes,  blaek  and 
gray  squirrels,  woodcock  and  the  rab- 
bit may  yet  be  taken.  Trenton  is  a 
spot  for  a  long  Bqjourn,  though  it  may 
be  run  over  pleasantly  in  a  day. 

NEW  YORK  TO  BUFFALO. 

To  Albany  by  the  Hudson  RiTcr,  146 
miles,  and  thence  by  the  New  York 
Central — a  chain  of  •ndlways  298  miles. 

This  great  route  traverses,  fh>m  east 
to  west,  the  entire  length  of  the  Empire 
State.  It  has  two  termini  at  the  eastern 
end,  one  at  Albany,  and  the  other  at 
Troy,  which  meet,  after  17  mUes,  at 
Schenectady.  It  then  continues,  in  one 
line,  to  Syracuse,  148  miles  from  Al- 
bany ;  when  it  is  again  a  double  route 
for  the  remainder  of  the  way;  the 
lower  line  being  looped  up  to  the  other 
about  midway,  between  Syracuse  and 
BuflUo,  at  Rochester.  The  upper  route 
is  the  more  direct  and  the  one  which 
we  shaU  now  follow.  The  geeni  Erie 
Oanal  traverses  the  State  of  New  Tork 
from  Albany  to  Buffalo,  nearly  on  the 
same  line  with  the  Central  Railroad. 

Trains  leave  Albany  and  Troy  for 
Buffalo  and  all  points  west  to  the  Mis- 
sissippi and  beyond,  on  the  anival  there 
of  the  cars  from  the  south,  east  and 
north — ^New  York,  Boston  and  Canada. 

At  Soheneotady  the  railways  from 
Albany  and  Troy  meet,  and  the  Sara- 
toga route  diverges.  Schenectady  is 
upon  the  banlc  of  the  Mohawk.  It  is 
one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  the  State, 
and  is  distinguished  as  the  seat  of  Union 
College.  The  council-grounds  of  the 
Mohawks  were  once  on  this  spot.  In 
the  winter  of  1600,  a  party  of  two  hun- 
dred Frenchmen  and  Canadians,  and 
fifty  Indians,  fell  at  midnight  upon 
Schenectady,  killed  and  made  captive 
its  people,  and  burned  the  village  to 
ashes.    Sixty-nine  persons  were  then 


massacred  and  twenty-seven  were  made 
prisoners.  The  church  and  sixty-three 
nouses  were  destroyed.  It  was  after» 
wards  taken  in  the  French  war  of  1748, 
when  about  seventy  people  were  put  to 
death.' 

Leaving  Schenectady,  the  road  crosses 
the  Mohawk  River  and  the  Erie  Canal, 
upon  a  bridge  nearly  one  thousand  feet 
in  length. 

At  FalatfaM  Brldgth  SS  miles  from 
Albany,  passengers  for  Sharon  Springs 
leave  the  road  and  proceed  by  stage. 
See  Sharon  firings. 

At  Fort  Plain.  68  miles  from  Albany, 
passengers  for  Otsego  Lake,  Coopers- 
town  and  Cherry  Valley,  proceed  by 
stage. 

Llttl*  Falls  is  remarkable  for  a  bold 
passage  of  ih»  Mohawk  River  and  the 
Erie  Oanal  through  a  wild  and  most 
picturesque  defile.  The  scenery,  with 
the  river  rapids  and  cascades,  the 
locks  and  windings  of  the  canal,  the 
bridges,  and  the  glimpses,  far  away,  of 
the  valley  of  the  Mohawk,  is  especially 
beautiftil. 

At  Utioa,  96  miles  from  Albanv,  a 
ndlway  and  canal  come  in  from  BinB^ 
hamton,  on  the  line  of  the  Erie  Road. 
Here  passengers  leave  for  Trenton  Falls 
(see  Trenton  Falls),  16  miles  distant. 
Utica  is  a  large  and  thriving  place,  with 
many  fine  public  and  private  buildings. 
It  is  built  upon  the  site  of  old  Fort 
Schuyler,  and  has  now  a  population  of 
over  22,000.  HoieU. — Bagg  s,  connect- 
ed with  the  Railway  Dep6t. 

At  SyxaoiUMi  148  miles  from  Albany, 
the  Central  Road  connects  by  rail  with 
Binghamton  on  the  Erie  Route,  and 
with  Oswego,  northward.  The  most 
extensive  salt  manufactories  in  the 
United  States  are  found  here.  It  is 
famous,  too,  as  the  meeting-place  of 
State  political  and  other  conventions. 
Syracuse  is  a  large  and  elegant  city, 
with  a  population  of  over  26,000.— 
Hotela. — ^The  Globe,  the  Syracuse  and 
the  Onondaga. 

Anbam.  This  important  city  is  near 
Owasco  Lake,  a  beautiiU  water,  12  miles 
long.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  Auburn 
State  Prison. 


160 


NBW  YOBK. 


New  York  to  BaflUo  by  the  Oentnl  Hallway. 


SkaneatelM  is  five  miles  distant,  by 
a  branch  railway,  at  the  foot  of  Skaro- 
ateles  Lake,  a  charming  water,  16  miles 
long,  with  picturesque  shores  and  good^ 
suppl^j  of  trout  and  other  fish. 

Oaynga  is  a  pleasant  Tillage  upon 
the  eastern  shore  of  Cayuga  Lake. — 
Ithaca  is  88  miles  ofif  at  the  oth^r  ex- 
tremity of  the  Lake.  These  fine  waters 
are  traversed  daily  by  steamboat,  con- 
necting Gayuga  with  Ithaca,  and  by 
railway  with  Oswego,  on  the  New  York 
and  Erie  route. 

Geoeva  is  upon  Seneca  Lake,  one 
of  the  largest  and  most  beautiful  of  the 
many  lakes  of  western  New  York.  It 
is  40  miles  long  and  from  two  to  four 
wide.  Steamboats  connect  its  towns 
and  Tillages  with  the  great  rdbtes  of 
travel.  The  Hobart  Free  School,  under 
the  direction  of  the  Episcopalians,  is 
here;  also  the  Medical  Institute  of 
Geneva  College  and  the  Geneva  Union 
School. 

Oanandaigna  is  a  beautiful  village, 
at  the  north  end  of  Ganandugua  Lake, 
The  railroad  from  Elmira,  on  the  New 
York  and  Erie  route,  to  magara  Falls, 
passes  through  Oanandaigna.  The  lake 
ia  about  16  mUes  in  length,  and  is  well 
stocked  with  fish. 

'RoohMteris  the  largest  and  most 
importi^it  city  upon  our  present  route, 
betweeh  Albany  and  Buffalo,  its  popu- 
lation being  nearly  46,000.  It  is  the 
seat  of  the  Rochester  University,  found- 
ed by  the  Baptists  in  1860.  There  is 
also  here  a  Baptist  Theolo^cal  Semi- 
nary, founded  in  1860.  Among  its  pic- 
turesque attractions,  are  the  Falls  of 
the  Genesee,  upon  both  sides  of  which 
river  the  city  is  built.  The  Mount 
Hope  Cemetery  in  the  vicinity,  is  also  a 
spot  of  much  natural  beauty. 

Rochester  is  connected  by  railway 
wiih  the  New  York,  and  Erie  route  at 
Corning,  and  with  Niagara  Falls  direct, 
by  the  Rochester,  Lockport,  and  Nia- 
gara Falls  Division  of  the  New  York 
Central  Road,  and  by  steamboats,  with 
all  ports  on  Lake  Ontario. 

Hotels. — ^The  Eagle  and  the  Congress 
Hotob,  tLvi  among  the  many  excellent 
houses  here. 


The  Oenesee  Fall*  are  seen  to  the 
'best  advantage  from  the  east  side  of 
the  stream.  The  railroad  cars  pass 
about  100  rods  south  of  the  most  south- 
erly fall  on  the  Genesee  River,  so  that 
passengers  in  crossing  lose  the  view. 
These  falls  have  three  perpendicular 
pitches,  and  two  rapids ;  the  first  great 
cataract  is  80  rods  below  the  aqueduct, 
the  stream  plunging  perpendicularly  96 
feet.  The  ledge  here  recedes  up  the 
river  from  the  centre  to  the  sides, 
breaking  the  water  into  three  distinct 
sheets. 

From  Thbh  Soek,  in  the  centre  of 
these  falls,  Sam  Patch  made  his  last 
and  fatal  leap.  The  river  below  the 
first  cataract  is  broad  and  deep,  with 
occasional  rapids  to  the  second  fall, 
where  it  again  descends  perpendicularly 
20  feet.  Thence  the  river  pursues  its 
course,  which  is  noisy,  swift,  and  rapid, 
to  the  third  and  last  fall,  over  which  it 
pours  its  flood  down  a  perpendicular 
descent  of  106  feet.  Below  ^.his  fall 
are  numerous  rapids  which  continue  to 
Carthage,  the  end  of  navigation  on  the 
Genesee  River  from  Lake  Ontario. 

At  Rochester  the  two  routes  of  the 
Central  Road  unite,  and  again  diverge 
to  reunite  at  Buffalo.  By  the  upper 
route  the  traveller  will  pass  through 
Lockport  direct  to  Niagara,  leaving 
Buffalo  to  the  south-west,  llie  lower 
route,  direct  to  Buffalo,  is  intersected  at 
Batavia,  by  the  Bu£E^o  and  Coming 
Road,from  Coming  on  the  Erie  Rulway, 
via  Rochester  to  Niagara. 

Botfalo.  We  have  now  reached  the 
shores  of  Lake  Erie,  and  are  at  the  end 
of  our  route,  whence  we  may  proceed 
at  our  pleasure,  by  steamboat  or  rail- 
way, to  any  place  northward  or  south- 
ward, in  the  Far  West^  for  Buffalo  is 
the  point  where  routes  of  travel  most 
do  meet. 

This  important  commercial  and  manu- 
facturing city  has  grown  so  great  and 
so  fast,  that  although  it  was  laid  out  as 
late  as  1801,  and  hi  1818  had  only  200 
houses,  its  population  now  numbers 
nearly  80,000.  It  is  an  earnest  of  the 
wonderful  progress  which  we  shall  see 
by-and-by,   when    we    continue    our 


KBW  TOBX. 


161 


Bontfls  to  the  FoUb  of  Niagan. 


travels   hence,    towards    the    further 
West. 


NIAOASA    FALLS. 

RouTxs.-^From  New  York,  via  Hud- 
son River  and  Hudson  River  Railroad, 
to  Albany,  146  miles ;  from  Albany  to 
Buffalo,  via  N.  T.  Central  R.  R.,  298 
miles ;  from  Buffalo,  by  Buffalo,  Niagara 
Falls,  and  Lewistown  K.  R.  (to  Magara), 
22  miles.    Total,  466  loiles. 

From  New  York,  via  New  York  and 
Erie  R.  R.,  to  Buffiilo,  422  miles ;  Buf- 
falo (as  above),  by  Buffalo,  Niagara 
Falls,  and  Lewistown  R.  R.  (to  Niagara), 
22  miles.     Total,  444. 

From  New  York,  by  New  York  and 
Erie  R.  R.  to  Elmira,  273  miles ;  from 
Elmira  to  Niagihi,  by  Elmira,  Oanan- 
daigua,  and  Niagara  jpalis  R.  R.,  166 
miles.    Total,  489  miles. 

Passengers  can  leave  the  main  N.  Y. 
Central  ]9Uiilway  (from  Alban^^  to  Buffa- 
lo) at  Rochester,  and  take  the  Roches- 
ter, Lockport,  and  Niagara  division,  76 
miles,  thence  to  Niagara. 

From  New  York  to  Albany,  by  Hud- 
son River,  146  miles ;  thence  to  Troy, 
6  miles.  Railway  from  Troy  to  White- 
hall, sixty-five  miles;  from  White- 
hall by  steamer  on  Lake  Ghamplaiq,  to 
St.  Johns,  150  miles ;  St.  Johns  to  La 
Prairie  Railroad,  16  miles;  La  Prairie, 
steamboat  on  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Mon- 
treal, 9  miles;  from  Montreal  (Grand 
Trunk  Railroad  and  other  lines  to 
Niagara,)  of  railroad  and  steamboat, 
486  miles.    Total,  727  miles. 

This  great  Mecca  of  the  world's  wor- 
shippers of  landscape  beauty,  the 
mighty  wonder  of  Niagara,  is  on  its 
namesake  river,  a  strait  connecting  the 
flood  of  Lakes  .Erie  and  Ontario,  and 
dividing  a  portion  of  the  State  of  New 
York  on  the  west  from  the  Provinces  of 
Canada.  Th^  cataracts  thus  lie  within 
the  territory  both  of  Qreat  Britain  and 
of  the  United  States.  They  are  some  20 
miles  below  the  entrance  of  the  river, 
at  the  north-east  extremity  of  Lake 
Erie,  and  about  14  miles  above  its 
junction  with  Lake  Ontario. 

The  waters  for  which  the  Niagara  is 


the  outlet,  cover  an  area  of  160,000 
square  miles<— floods  so  grand  and  in- 
exhaustible as  to  be  utterly  unconscious 
of  the  loss  of  the  ninety  million*  of 
tone  which  they  pour  every  hour, 
through  succeoding  centuries,  over 
these  stupendous  precipices. 

Fortunatdy,  the  most  usual  approach 
to  Niagara — ^that  by  the  American 
shore — is  the  best,  all  points  consider- 
ed. **  The  descent  of  about  200  feet, 
by  the  staircase,  brings  the  traveller 
directly  under  the  shoulder  and  edge 
of  the  American  Fall,  the  most  impos- 
ing scene,  for  a  single  object,  that  he 
wm  ever  have  witnessed.  The  long 
column  of  sparkling  water  seems,  as  he 
stands  near  it,  to  descend  to  an  im- 
measurable depth,  and  the  bright  sea- 
green  curve  above  has  the  appearance 
of  being  set  into  the  sky.  The  tre- 
mendous power  of  the  Fall,  as  well  as 
the  height,  realizes  his  utmost  expecta^ 
tions.  He  descends  to  the  water's 
edge  and  embarks  in  a  ferry-boat,  which 
tosses  like  an  egg-shell  on  the  heaving 
and  convulsed  water^  and  in  a  minute 
or  tw<L>  he  finds  himself  in  the  face  of 
the  vast  line  of  the  Falls,  and  sees  with 
surprise  that  he  has  expended  his  fullest 
admiration  and  astonishment  upon  a 
mere  thread  of  Niagara-'-the  thou- 
sandth part  of  its  wondrous  volume  and 
grandeur.  From  the  point  where  he 
crosses  to  Table  Rock,  the  line  of  the 
Falls  is  measurable  at  three-quarters  of 
a  mile ;  and  it  is  this  immense  extent 
which,  more  than  any  ether  feature, 
takes  the  traveller  by  surprise.  The 
tide  at  the  ferry  sets  very  strongly  down, 
and  the  athletic  men  who  are  employed 
here  keep  the  boat  .up  against  it  with 
difficulty.  Arrived  near  the  opposite 
landing,  however,  there  is  a  slight 
counter-current,  and  the  large  rocks 
near  the  shore  serve  as  a  breakwater, 
behind  which  the  boat  runs  smoothly  to 
her  moorings."* 

It  is  from  the  American  side  of  the 


*  Thii  passage  is  fh>m  "American  Boenery," 
and  since  it  was  written  a  Mrv  little  steamer 
has  been  employed  to  traverse  the  vexed  river, 
and  the  timid  cross  xeadUy  upon  the  grand 
Biupenfllon  Bridge. 


162 


NBW  TOBK. 


Niagara— Hotels — Ooat  Island— The  Bapids. 


Niagara  Falls.    The  Bapids. 


-J  jfi'^*^ 


river  that  access  is  had  to  the  hundred 
points  of  interest  and  surprise  in  the 
fiunous  Ooat  Island  vicinage,  with  its 
connecting  bridges,  its  views  of  the 
Kainds,  of  the  Gave  of  the  Winds,  of 
the  scene  of  Sam  Patch's  great  leap, 
and  of  its  bold  over-topping  tower; 
and  ii^  other  neighborhoods  of  the 
Whirlpool^  of  the  Chasm  Tower,  and 
the  Devil's  Hole. 

A  totally  different  and  not  less  won- 
derAil  gaUery  of  natural  master-pieces  is 
opened  upon  the  Canada  shore.  The 
terrible  marvels  of  the  Table  Rock 
above,  and  of  Termination  Rock  behind 
the  mighty  Horse-Shoe  Fall ;  the  noble 
panorama  from  the  piazzas  of  the 
Clifton  House,  the  Burning  Spring,  the 
Ustorical  village  of  Chippewa,  and  the 
battle  field  of  Lundy*s  Lane ;  Bender's 
Cave,  etc. 

GUIDE.— ^ofe/t.— Upon  the  Ameri- 
can side  of  the  river,  the  Cataract 
House  and  the  International  Hotel  are 
most  excellent  homes  for  tL?  tourist. 
The  Empire,  the  Niagara,  and  the  St. 
Lawrence^  are  also  pleasant  a^d  popular 
resorts. 


Qoat  IslaiicU  (American  side.)— > 
Leaving  the  Cataract  House,  take  the 
first  left-hand  street,  two  minutes'  walk 
to  the  bridge,  which  leads  to  the  toll- 
gate  on  Bath  Island.  This  bridge  is  it- 
self an  object  of  curious  wonder,  in  its 
apparently  rash  and  dangerous  position. 
It  is,  however,  perfectly  safe,  and  if 
crossed  hourly  by  heavily  laden  car^ 
riages. 

The  Rapidt  are  seen  in  grand  and 
impressive  aspect  on'  the  way  to  Croat 
Island.  The  river  descends  61  feet  in 
a  distance  of  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
by  this  inextricable  turmoil  of  waters. 
It  is  one  of  the  most  striking  incidents 
in  the  Niagara  scenery.  Standing  on 
the  bridge,  and  gazing  thence  up  the 
angry  torrent,  the  leaping .  crests  seem 
like  "a  battle-charge  of  tempestuous 
waves  animated  and  infuriated  against 
the  sky.  The  rooks,  whose  soaring 
points  show  above  the  surface,  seem 
tormented  with  some  supernatural 
agofiy,  and  fling  off  the  wild  and  hurried 
waters,  as  if  with  the  force  of  a  giant's 
arm.  Nearer  the  plunge  of  the  Fall, 
the  Rapids  become  still  more  agitated: 


HmSW  YOItK. 


163 


Localities  $X  Niagan. 


and  it  is  impossible  for  the  spectator  to 
rid  himself  of  the  idea  that  they  are 
conscious  of  the  abyss  to  which  they 
are  hurrying,  and  struggle  back  in  the 
ve,ry  extremity  of  horror.  This  pro- 
pensity to  invest  Niagara  with  a  soul 
and  human  feelings  is  a  common  effect 
upon  tib*  minds  of  vintors,  in  every 
part  of  its  wonderfiil  phenomena.  The 
torture  of  the  Rapids,  the  clinging 
curves  with  which  they  embrace  the 
small  rocky  islands  that  live  amid  the 
surg^;  the  sudden  calmness  at  the 
brow  of  the  cataract,  and  the  infernal 
writhe  and  whiteness  with  which  they 
reappear,  powerless  from  the  depths  of 
the  abyss— all  seem,  to  the  excited 
imagination  of  the  gazer,  like  the  natu- 
ral effiwts  of  impending  ruin — despe- 
rate resolution  and  fearful  agony  on 
the  mteds  and  frames  of  mortali.'*  * 

OhapinVi  Xsland  is  upon  the  right 
of  the  >bridge,  witlun  a  short  distance 
of  the  American  FalL  It  is  hamed  in 
memory  of  a  workman  whose  life  was 
imperilled  by  falling  into  the  stream, 
as  he  was  laboring  upon  the  bridge. 
Mr.  Robinson  went  gallantly  and  suc- 
cessfully to  his  relief  in  a  skiff. 

Tbm  Toll  Gate  is  upon  Bath  Island, 
where  baths,  warm  and  otherwise,  are 
accessible  at  all  times  to  visitors.  A 
fee  of  26  cents,  paid  here,  gives  you  the 
freedom  of  Ooat  Island,  during  all  your 
stay,  be  it  for  the  year  or  less.  Near 
this  point  are  Ship  and  Big  Islands. 
There  is  here  a  very  extensive  paper- 
mill. 

Another  small  bridge,  and  we  are 
upon  Iris,  or  Goat  Island.  The  only 
place  of  habitation  here  is  a  house  at 
which  the  traveller  can  supply  himself 
with  refreshments  of  all  inviting  kinds, 
and  store  his  trunks  with  every  variety 
of  samples  of  Indian  ingenuity  and  la- 
bor. The  place  is  called  the  Indian 
Emporium.  Three  routes  over  the  isl- 
and diverge  at  this  point.  The  princi- 
pal path  followed  by  most  visitors  is 
that  to  the  right,  which  keeps  the  best 
of  the  sights,  as  Wisdom  always  does, 
until  the  last;  affording  less  striking 

*  »  American  Sceneiy." 


views  of  the  Falls  than  do  the  other 
routes,  at  first,  but  far  surpassing  them 
both  in  its  grand  revealments  at  the 
end.  This  wav  conducts  to  the  foot  of 
the  island,  while  the  left-hand  path 
seeks  the  head,  and  the  middle  winds 
across.  Taking  the  right-hand  path, 
then,  from  the  ToU  (Mte,  we  come, 
first,  to  the  centre  Fall,  called  TIm 
Okv  of  tho  Winds,  mid-distance 
nearly,  between  the  American  and  the 
Horse^oe  Falls.  This  wonderiul  scene 
is  best  and  most  securely  ei^joyed  from 
the  spacious  flat  rock  beneath,  ^e 
cave  u  100  feet-  hi^,  and  of  the  same 
extent  in  width.  You  can  pass  safely 
into  the  recess  bdiind  the  water,  to  a 
platform  beyond.  Xu;ical  rainbow- 
pictures  are  formed  at  tms  spot ;  some- 
times bow3  of  entire  circles  and  two  or 
three  at  once,  ddk^t.the  vision. 

At  the  foot  of  Qoat  Island  the  l%re9 
ProJUe$  is  an  object  of  ourions  interest. 
These  profiles,  seemfaigly  some  two  feet 
long,  are  to  be  seen,  one  directly  above 
the  otl  r,  as  you  look  across  ue  first 
sheet  of  water,  directly  under  the  low- 
est point  of  rook. 

XihIui  Uhmd  is  reached  by  a  foot 
bridge,  from  the  right  of  GoatJcdand. 
It  has  an  area  of  some  three-quarters  of 
an  acre.  The  effective  rdnbow  forms 
seen  at  this  point  have  given  it  the 
name  it  bears.  The  venturesome  vic- 
tor may  get  some  startling  peeps  fiur 
down  into  the  great  caldron  of  waters. 
A  chQd  of  eight  years  once  fell  into  the 
torrent  at  this  point,  and  was  lost, 
together  with  a  gallant  lad  who  jumped 
in  to  rescue  her. 

Sam  Patoii*a  Leap.— It  was  upon 
the  west  side  of  Goat  Ishind,  near  Bid- 
die's  Sturs,  which  we  shall  next  look 
at,  that  the  immortal  jumper,  Sam 
Patch,  made  two  successful  leaiM  into 
the  waters  below,  saying,  as  he  went 
off,  to  the  throng  of  spectators,  that 
'*  one  thing  might  be  done  as  well  as 
another  I "  The  fellow  made  his  jump 
too  much,  within  the  same  year  (1829) 
over  the  Genesee  Falls,  at  Rochester. 

Biddle's  Stain,  on  the  west  side  of 
the  island,  was  named  after  Nicholas 
Biddle,  of  United  States  Bank  fiime,  by 


164 


NBW  YORK. 


NUganH- The  Horse-Shoe  Fall,  eta 


whose  order  they  were  built.  "  Make 
us  something,"  he  is  reported  to  have 
said  to  the  workmen,  "by  which  we 
may  descend  and  see  what  is  below." 
At  the  base  of  these  spiral  stairs,  which 
are  secured  to  the  rocks  by  strong  iron 
fastening,  there  are  two  diverging 
paths.  The  up  river  way,  towards  the 
Horse-Shoe  Fall,  is  difficult,  and  much 
obstructed  by  fallen  rocks;  but  down 
the  current  a  noble  view  is  guned  of 
the  centre  Fall  or  Gave  of  the  Winds. 
Re-ascending  the  Biddle  Stairs,  we 
come,  after  a  few  rods'  travel,  to  a  rest- 
ing place  at  a  little  house,  and  thence 
we  go  down  the  bank,  and,  crossing  a 
bridge,  reach 

Frospeot  Toww. — ^This  pin^carions- 
looking  edifice,  which  seems  to  have 
"  rushed  jn,  as  fools  do,  where  angels 
fear  to  tread,"  is  very  near  the  edge  of 
the  precipice,  above  which  it  rises  some 
45  feet  in  air.  From  the  top,  which 
is  surrounded  by  an  iron  ndling,  a  mag- 
nificent scene  is  presented — a  panorama 
of  the  Niagara  wonders — the  like  of 
which  can  be  seen  from  no  other 
point. 

The  Bone-Shoe  Fall,  which  leads 
the  host  of  astonishments  in  this  aston- 
ishing place,  is  the  connecting  link  be- 
tween the  scenes  of  the  American  and 
of  the  Oanadian  sides  of  the  river,  al- 
ways marvellous  from  whatever  position 
it  is  viewed.  Thie  nughty  cataract  is 
144  rods  across,  and,  it  is  said  by  Prof. 
Lyell,  that  fifteen  hundred  millions  of 
cubic  feet  of  water  pass  over  its  ledges 
every  hour.  One  of  the  condemned 
lake  ships  (the  Detroit)  was  sent  over 
this  Fall  in  1829,  and,  though  she  drew 
18  feet  of  water,  she  did  not  touch  the 
rocks  in  passing  over  the  brink  of  the 
precipice,  showing  a  solid  body  of 
water,  at  least  some  20  feet  deep,  to  be 
above  the  ledge.  We  shall  return  to 
the  Horse-Shoe  Fall  from  the  Canada 
side. 

Qnll  blaad,  just  above,  is  an  unap- 

E reachable  spot,  upon  .which  it  is  not 
kely  or  posdble  that  man  has  ever  yet 
stood.  There  are  three  other  small 
isles  seen  from  here,  called  the  Thr^ 
Sittera.     Near  the  Three  Sisters,  on 


Goat  Inland,  is  the  spot  remembered  aa 
the  resort  of  an  eccentric,  and  which  is 
called,  after  him,  the  Bathing  Place  of 
Franeia  Abbott  the  Hermit.  At  the  head 
of  Goat  Island  is  Navy  I^and,  near  the 
Canada  shore.  It  was  the  scene  of  in- 
cidents in  the  Canadian  rebellion  of 
183*7-8,  known  as  the  HcKensie  War. 
Chippewa,  which  held  at  that  period 
some  6,000  British  troops,  is  upon  the 
Canadian  shore  below.  It  was  near  Fort 
Schlosser,  hard  by,  that,  about  this  pe- 
riod, the  American  steamboat  Caroline, 
was  set  on  fire  and  sent  over  the  Falls, 
by  the  order  of  Col.  McNabb,  a  British 
officer.  Some  fragments  of  the  wreck 
lodged  on  Gull  luand,  where  they  re- 
mained until  the  following  spring. 

Ghraad  Idaiid,  which  has  an  area  of 
17,240  acres,  was  the  spot  upon  which 
Mt^or  M.  M.  Noah  hoped  to  assemble 
all  the  Hebrew  peculations  of  the  world. 

Near  the  Ferry  (American  side  still) 
there  was  once  an  observatory  or  Pa- 
goda, 100  feet  high,  from  which  a  grand 
view  of  the  region  was  gained.  This 
spot  is  called  PoirU  View. 

The  WUrlpooL— Three  miles  below 
the  Falls  (American  dde)  is  the  Whirl- 
pool, resembling  in  its  appearance  the 
celebrated  Maektrom  on  the  coast  of 
Norway.  It  is  occasioned  by  the  river 
making  nearly  a  right  angle,  while  it  is 
here  narrower  than  at  any  other  place, 
not  being  more  than  80  rods  wide,  and 
the  current  running  with  such  velocity 
as  to  rise  up  in  the  middle  10  feet  above 
the  sides.  This  has  been  ascertained 
by  measurement.  There  is  a  path  lead- 
ing down  the  bank  to  the  Whirlpool  on 
both  sides,  and,  though  somewhat  diffi- 
cult to  descend  and  ascend,  it  is  ac- 
complished  almost  every  day. 

^e  DtnrfPu  Hole  is  a  mile  below 
the  Whirlpool.  It  embraces  about  two 
acres,  out  out  laterally  and  perpendicu- 
larly in  the  rock  by  the  nde  of  the 
river,  and  is  160  feet  deep.  An  angle 
of  this  hole  or  gulf  comes  withui  a  few 
feet  of  the  stage-road,  affording  travel- 
lers an  opportunity,  without  alighting, 
of  looking  into  the  yawning  abyss. 
But  they  snould  alight,  and  pass  to  the 
further  side  of  the  flat  projecting  rock, 


NEW  TOBK. 


165 


Niagan^-Oanada  Shore— SaspeoBion  Bridge. 


where  they  will  feel  themselves  richly 
repaid  for  their  trouble. 

Ohaum  Tower,  8i  miles  below  the 
FaUs,  is  76  feet  high,  and  commands 
fine  views  (seen,  if  you  please,  of  all 
hues,  through  a  specular  medium)  of  all 
the  country  round.  A  fee  of  12^'  cents 
is  required. 

Tbm  BSaid  of  the  Bfiat— The  land- 
ing of  that  singular  feature  of  these 
wUd  scenes,  the  steamboat  Maid  of  the 
Mist,  is  two  miles  below  the  Falls, 
whose  troublous  brink  she  touches  in 
her  frequent  trips  across  the  river. 

Tlie  Oteat  Suapendoa  Bridfe 
spans  the  chasm  at  this  point.  Its 
total  length,  from  centre  to  centre  of 
the  towers,  is  800  feet ;  its  height  above 
the  water,  268  feet.  The  first  bridge, 
which  was  built  by  Mr.  Charles  Elliott, 
was  a  very  light  and  fairy-like  aifair,  in 
comparison  with  the  present  substantial 
structure.  The  bridge,  as  it  now 
stands,  was  constructed  under  the  di- 
rections of  Mr.  John  A.  Roebling,  at  a 
cost  of  $600,000.  It  was  first  crossed 
by  the  locomotive  March  8,  1866. 
Twenty-eight  feet  below  the  floor  of  the 
railway  tracks  a  carriage  and  foot-way 
is  suspended.  This  bridge  is  used  at 
present  by  the  New  York  Central,  the 
Erie,  and  the  Great  Western,  Canada 
roads. 

We  will  now  cross  the  river  on  the 
Suspension  Bridge,  and  explore  the 
wonders  of  the  opposite  shores. 

Taking  a  carriage  at  our  hotel,  on 
the  American  side,  we  may  "do"  the 
Canadian  E^iore  very  comfortably  be- 
tween breakfast  and  dinner,  if  we  have 
no  more  time  to  spare.  The  regular 
price  of  carriage  hire  at  the  livery 
stables  is  one  dollar  per  hour.  On  the 
plank  road,  going  and  returning,  five 
cents ;  at  the  bridge,  for  each  foot  pas- 
senger, going  and  returning  the  same 
day,  26  cents,  or  12^  each  way.  If  the 
passenger  does  not  return,  the  bridge 
toll  is  still  26  cents.  For  each  carriage 
(two  horses),  going  and  returning,  60 
cents  for  each  passenger,  and  60  cents 
besides  for  the  carriage.  A  plank  road 
leads  from  the  opposite  terminus  of  the 
bridge  to  the  Clifton  House. 


At  ^he  bridge  is  shown  a  basket  in 
which  Mr.  Elliott,  his  wife,  and  other 
ladies  and  gentlemen,  crossed  over  the 
river  on  a  single  wire,  about  one  inch 
in  diameter.  A  perilous  journey  across 
such  a  gorge  and  at  an  elevation  in  the 
air  of  280  feet  I  Two  or  three  persons 
thus  crossed  at  a  time,  the  basket  being 
let  down  on  an  inclined  plane  to  the 
centre  of  the  towers  (this  was  daring 
the  building  of  the  first  Suspension 
Bridget  and  then  drawn  up  by  the 
help  of  a  windlass  to  the  opposite  side. 
The  usual  time  in  crossing  was  from 
three  to  four  minutes.  By  the  means 
of  this  basket  the  lives  of  four  men 
were  once  saved,  when  the  planks  of 
the  Foot  Bridge  were  blown  off  in  a 
violent  storm,  and  they  were  suspended 
over  the  river  by  only  two  strands  of 
wire,  which  oscillated  with  immense  ra- 
pidity, 60  or  10  feet.  The  basket  was 
sent  to  their  relief^  at  a  moment  when 
the  hurricane  grew  less  fearftd,  and 
they  descended  into  it  by  means  of  a 
ladder,  one  at  a  trip  only,  until  all  were 
released  ftom  thehr  terrible  position. 

Bender'B  Oewe  is  midway  between 
the  Suspension  Bridge  and  the  Clifton 
House.  It  is  a  recess  six  feet  high  and 
twenty  in  length,  made  by  a  decompo- 
sition of  the  lime-stone. 

If  the  tourist  prefer  it,  he  may  cross 
the  river  by  the  ferry,  the  only  route  of 
other  4ays.  From  the  ferry-house  the 
cars  descend  to  the  water's  edge  on  an 
inclined  plane  of  81  degrees.  They 
are  worked  by  water-power,  ^e  time 
required  to  make  this  descent  and  to 
cross  to  the  Canada  shore  is  about  ten 
minutes.  During  the  40  years  it  is  said 
that  this  ferry  has  been  in  operation, 
not  one  life  has  been  lost,  nor  has  any 
serious  accident  occurred.  We  have 
described  the  passage  of  the  river  in 
the  opening  of  our  article.  Upon  land- 
ing, plenty  of  carriages  will  be  always 
found  in  readiness,  as  at  all  other 
starting  and  stopping  places  about  the 
Falls.  It  will  be  well  to  ascertain  the 
fares  before  employing  any  of  them. 

The  Olifton  Bomae  is  an  old  and 

very  favorite  resort  here,  for  its  home 

1  luxuries  and  for  its  noble   portion, 


106 


VXW  YORK. 


Nlagtrar-Owuda  Side— Clifton  Hoom. 


Niagara  Falla,  from  the  Glifton  House,  Ganada. 


overlookbg  the  river  and  Falls.  It 
was  the  residence  of  Mdlle.  Jenny  Lind 
during  her  visit  to  Niagara.  "The 
Glifton  House,"  writes  Mr.  Willis,  from 
whose  descriptions  of  these  scenes  we 
have  already  quoted,  '*  stands  nearly 
opposite  the  centre  of  the  irregular 
orescent  formed  by  the  Falls ;  but  it  is 
80  far  back  from  the  line  of  the  arc, 
that  the  height  and  grandeur  of -the  two 
cataracts,  to  an  eye  unaoquunted  with 
the  scene,  are  respectively  diminished. 
Ajfter  once  making  the  tour  of  the 
points  of  view,  however,  the  distance 
and  elevation  of  the  hotel  are  allowed 
for  by  the  eye,  and  the  situation  seems 
most  advantageous.  This  is  the  only 
house  at  Niagara  where  a  traveller,  on 
his  second  visit,  would  be  content  to 
l^ve." 

"The  ennui  attendant  upon  public- 
houses  can  never  be  felt  at  the  Clifton 
House.  The  most  common  mind  finds 
the  spectacle,  from  its  balconies,  a  suffi- 
cient  and  untiring  occupation.  The 
loneliness  of  uninhabited  parlors,  the 
discord  of  baby-tbrninmed  pianos,  the 
drearine^  of   great    staircases,    long 


entries,  and  bar-rooms  filled  with 
strangers,  are  pams  and  penalties  of 
travel  never  felt  at  Niagara.  If  there 
is  a  vacant  half  hour  to  dinner,  or  if  in- 
disposition to  sleep  create  that  sicken- 
ing yearning  for  society  which  some- 
times comes  upon  a  stranger  in  » 
strange  land,  like  the  calenture  of  a 
fever — the  eternal  marvel  going  on 
without  is  more  en^4-ossing  than  mend 
or  conversatio.i ;  jnore  beguiling  firom 
sad  thoughts  thvi  the  Corso  in  carnival 
time.  To  lean  over  the  balustrade,  and . 
watch  the  flying  of  the  ferry-boat  be- 
low, with  its  terrified  freight  of  adveu' 
turers,  one  moment  gUding  swiftly 
down  the  stream  in  the  round  of  an 
eddy,  the  next  lifted  up  by  a  boiling 
wave,  as  if  it  were  tossed  from  the 
scoop  of  a  giant^s  iiand  beneath  ^he 
water ;  to  gaze,  hour  after  hour,  into 
the  face  of  the  cataract ;  to  trace  tho 
runbows,  delight  like  a  child  in  the 
shooting  spray-clouds,  and  calculate 
fruitlessly  and  endlessly,  by  the  force, 
weight,  speed,  and  cluuige  of  the  tre> 
mendous  waters — ^is  amusement  and 
occupation  enough  to  draw  the  mind 


anew  TOBK. 


let 


KUsankF- Table  Book— TemiiiAtioB  Bock. 


from  any  thing — ^to  cure  madneas  or 
create  it" 

Tabl*  Rook — ^Tlie  grand  overhang- 
ing platform  oaUed  Table  Rock,  and  the 
'feaiM  abvamal  scene  at  the  very  base 
of  the  mighty  Horse  Shoe  Fall,  which  it 
presents,  is  one  of  the  cardinal  wonders 
of  Niagara.  If  one  would  listen  to  .the 
terrible  IK^  of  the  great  cataract,  let 
him  come  here,  where  the  sound  of 
its  house  utterance  drowns  all  lesser 
sounds,  and  his  own  speech  is  inaudible 
to  himself. 

TmHbuitioa  Rook  is  a  recess  be- 
hind the  centre  of  the  Horse  Shoe  Fall, 
reached  by  the  (tescent  of  a  spiral  stair- 
way fpom  Table  Rock,  the  traverse  for 
a  short  distance  of  the  rude  marge  of 
the  river,  and  then  of  a  narrow  path 
over  a  ftijghtfoi  ledge  and  through  the 
drowning  spi^y,  behmd  the  mighty 
Fall. 

Before  descending,  the  visitors  make 
a  complete  change  of  toilette,  for  a 
rough  costume  more  suitable  for  the 
stormy  and  rather  damp  journey  before 
them.  When  fUUy  equipped,  their  lu- 
dicrous appearance  excites,  for  a  while, 
amirthfiil  feeling,  in>  singular  contrast 
with  the  solemn  sentiment  of  all  the 
scene  around  them.    This  strange  ex- 

£  edition,  often  made  even  by  ladies, 
as  been  thus  described :  "  The  guide 
went  before,  and  we  followed  close 
under  the  cliff.  A  cold,  clammy  wind 
blew  strong  in  our  fiuses  from^the  mo- 
ment we  left  the  shelter  of  the  stair- 
case, and  a  few  steps  brought  us  into  a 
pelting,  fine  nun,  that  penetrated  every 
opening  of  our  dresses  and  made  lur  foot- 
hold very  slippery  and  difficult.  We  were 
not  yet  near  the  sheet  of  water  we  were 
to  walk  through ;  but  one  or  two  of  the 
party  gave  out  and  returned,  declaring 
it  was  Imposdble  to  breathe;  and  the 
rest,  imitating  the  guide,  bent  nearly 
double  to  keep  the  beating  spray  from 
their  nostrils,  and  pushed  on,  with 
enough  to  do  to  keep  right  of  his  heels. 
We  arrived  near  the  difficult  point  of 
our  progress ;  and  in  the  midst  of  a  con- 
fusion of  blinding  gusts,  half  deafened, 
and  more  than  half  drowned,  the  guide- 
stopped  to  give  us  a  hold  of  his  skurts 


and  a  little  counsel.  All  that  could  be 
heard  amid  the  thunder  of  the  cataract 
beside  us  was  an  ii:\junction  to  push  on 
when  it  got  to  the  worst,,  as  it  was 
shorter  to  get  beyond  the  sheet  than  to 
go  back ;  and  with  this  pleasant  stats' 
ment  of  our  dilemma,  we  faced  about 
with  the  longest  breath  we  could  draw, 
and  encountered  the  enemy.  It  may 
be  supposed  that  everv  person  who  has 
been  draffeed  through  the  oolomn  of 
water  whum  obstructs  the  entraioee  to 
the  cavern  behind  this  cataract,  has  a 
very  tolerable  idea  of  the  piins  of 
drowning.  What  i»  wanting  in  the 
density  of  the  element  is  more  than 
made  up  by  the  force  of  the  contending 
winds,  which  rush  into  the  mouthy  eyes 
and  nostrils,  as  if  flying  from  a  water- 
fiend.  The  ''courage  of  worse  behind** 
alone  persuades  the  gasping  sufferer  to 
take  one  desperate  step  more.  - 

It  is  ^fficult  enough  to  breathe  with- 
in; but  with  a  little  self-control  and 
management,  the  nostrils  may  be  guard- 
ed from  the  watery  particles  m  the 
atmosphere,  and  then  an  impresdon  is 
made  upon  the  mind  by  the  extraor- 
dinary pavilion  above  and  around,  wbJcfa 
never  loses  its  vividness.  The  natural 
bend  of  the  falling  cataract,  and  the 
backward  shelve  of  the  precipice,  form 
an  immense  area  like  the  interior  of  a 
tent,  but  so  pervaded  by  discharges  of 
mist  and  spray,  that  it  is  impoadble  to 
see  far  inward.  Outward  the  lig:ht  strug- 
gles brokenlv  through  the  crystal  wul 
of  the  cataract ;  and  when  the  sun  shines 
directly  on  its  face,  it  is  a  scene  of  tm- 
imaginable  glory.  The  footing  is  rather 
unsteadfast,  a  small  shelf  composed  of . 
loose  and  slippery  stones ;  and  Oie  abyss 
below  boils  like — ^it  is  difficult  to  find  a 
comparison.  On  the  whole,  this  under- 
taking is  rather  pleasanter  to  remember 
than  to  achieve. 

The  Museum^  near  Table  Rock,  con- 
tains more  than  10,000  specimens  of 
minerals,  birds,  fish  and  animals,  many 
of  which  were  collected  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  Falls.  Admittance,  2S 
cents.  The  Burning  Spring  is  near  the 
water,  two  miles  above  the  Falls.  The 
carbonated  Sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas 


168 


NBW  TOBK. 


The  AdiroadMk  Moonntslns  and  the  BanuMO  Lakes. 


here,  siveB  out  a  brilliant  flame  when 
lighted.    Charge,  l2i  cents. 

The  height  of  the  Falls  is  166  feet. 
The  roar  of  the  waters  has  been  heard 
at  Toronto,  44  miles  away,  and  yet  in 
some  states  of  wind  and  atmosphere,  it 
is  scarcely  perceptible  in  the  immediate 
neighborhood.  Niagara  presents  a  new 
and  most  unique  aspect  in  winter,  when 
huge  icicles  hang  from  the  precipices, 
and  immense  frozen  piles  of  a  thousand 
fantastic  shapes  glitter  in  the  bright 
sun  light.  Father  Hennepin,  a  Jesuit 
missionary,  was  the  first  European  who 
ever  saw  Niagara.  His  visit  was  in 
16*78.  Niagara  is  an  Indian  word  of 
the  Iroquois  tongue,  from  Ongakarra, 
meaning  mighty  or  thundering  water. 

In  the  Ticinity  of  Niagara  (is  Lewis- 
town,  seven  miles  distant,  at  the  head 
of  navigation  on  Lake  Ontario — and 
directly  opposite  Lewistown  is  Queens- 
toWn,  under  Queenstown  Heights — ^a 
fkmous  battleground.  Brock's  Monu- 
ment, a  column  of  126  feet,  crowns  the 
Heights. 

THE  ADIRONDACK  MOUNTAINS— THE 
SABANAC  LAKES,  ETC. 

The  upper  part  of  the  State  of  New 
York,  lying  west  and  south  of  Lake 
Ghamplain  and  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  [ 


respectively,  is  still  a  wild  primitive 
forest  region,  of  the  highest  interest  tp 
the.  toumt,  for  its  wonderful  natund 
beauties  and  for  the  ample  facilities  it 
ofiiers  for  the  pleasures  of  the  rod  and 
the  rifle.  Fine  mountain  peaks  stud 
the  whole  region,  and  charming  lakes 
and  lakelets  are  so  abundant  that  travel 
here  is  made  by  water  instead  of  by 
land — ^traversing  the  ponds  in  row-boats 
which  are  carried  by  easy  portage  friun 
one  lovely  brook  or  lake  to  another. — 
Deer  fill  the  woods,  and  trout  are  un- 
suspecting in  the  transparent  floods 
everywhere.  This  wilderness  land  is 
visited  at  various  points  under  distinc- 
tive names,  as  the  hunting-grounds  of 
the  Savanaos,  of  the  Ghateaugay  woods, 
of  the  Adirondack's,  and  of  Lake  Fleas- 
ant,  etc.  We  shall  speak  of  these  sev- 
eral divisions,  briefly,  in  order. 

The  Banmao  Lalcei.  These  won- 
derful links  of  the  great  chain  of  moun- 
tain waters  in  upper  New  York,  are  about 
a  dozen  in  number,  large  and  small.  They 
lie  principally  in  Franklin  County,  and 
may  be  most  readily  reached  by  stage 
from  Wesport  or  from  Keeseville,  about 
midway  on  the  western  shore  of  Lake 
Ghamplain — ^taking  stage  or  private  con- 
veyance thence  (80  mUes)  to  the  banks 
of  the  Lower  Saranac — which  is  the 
outer  edge  of  civilization  in  this  direo- 


•"•J'Wl.JK,- 


Via 


Lower  Saranac  Lake,  N.  Y. 


NBW  TOBK. 


169 


The  BanuuM  Lakes  and  the  Adirondack  Monntalna. 


Jl 


tion.  There  is  a  little  village  and  an 
inn  or  two  at  this  point,  and  here  guides 
and  boats,  with  all  proper  camp^quip- 
age  for  forest-life,  may  be  procured. 
For  this  route  the  tourist  must  engage 
a  boatman,  who  for  a  compensation  of 
two  or  three  dollars  per  day — ^the  price 
will  be  no  more  if  he  should  have 
extra  passengers — ^wiU  provide  a  boat, 
with  tent  and  Idtchen  apparatus,  dogs, 
rifles,  etc.  The  tourist  will  supply,  be- 
fore  starting,  such  stores  as  coffee,  tea, 
biscuit,  etc.,  and  the  sport  by  the  way, 
conducted  by  himself  or  by  his  guide, 
will  keep  him  furnished  with  trout  and 
venison.  If  camp  life  should  not  please 
him,  he  may,  with  some  little  inconve- 
nience, so  measure  and  direct  his  move- 
ments as  to  sleep  in  some  one  or  other 
of  the  shanties  of  the  hunters  or  of  the 
lumber-men  found  here  and  there  on 
the  way.  The  tent  in  the  forest,  how- 
ever, is  much  preferable. 

Leaving  the  Lower  Saranac,  we  will 
pass  pleasantly  along  some  half  a  dozen 
miles— ^hen  make  a  short  portage,  the 
gidde  carrying  the  huge  boat,  by  a 
yoke  on  the  back,  to  the  Middle  Saranac 
— there  he  may  go  on  to  the  Upper 
Lake  of  the  same  name,  and  thence  by 
a  long  portage  of  three  miles  to  Lake 
St.  Regis.  These  are  all  large  and  beau- 
tiful waters,  full  of  delicious  islands  and 
hemmed  in  upon  all  sides  byfine  moun- 
tain ranges.  Trout  may  be  taken  readily 
at  the  i^ets  of  all  the  brooks,  and  deer 
may  be  found  in  the  fbrests  almost  at 
will. 

Retundng  from  St.  Regis,  and  back 
via  the  Upper  to  the  Middle  Saranac, 
we  conl^pte  our  journey,  by  portage, 
to  the  8i»ny  Creek  pond»— thence  three 
miles  by  Stony  Greek  to  the  Backett 
River—a  rapid  stream,  with  wonderful 
forest  vegetation  upon  its  banks.  This 
water  fdtowed  for  some  20  miles,  brings 
us  to  Tupper's  Lake — ^the  finest  part  of 
the  Saranac  re^on.  Tupper's  Lake  is 
the  largest  of  this  chain,  being  seven 
miles  long  and  from  one  to  two  miles 
broad.  The  shores  and  headlands  and 
islands  are  especially  bold  and  pictur- 
esque, and  at  this  point  the  deer  is  much 
more  easily  found  than  elsewhere  in  the 
8 


neighborhood.  Below  Tupper's  Lake 
— ^the  waters  commingling — ^is  Lough* 
neah,  another  charming  pond.  The 
chain  continues  on  yet  for  miles,  but 
the  Saranac  trip,  proper,  ends  here.  This 
mountain  vovage  and  the  return  to 
Lake  Ohamplain  might  be  made  in  a 
week,  but  two  or  three,  or  even  more, 
should  be  given  to  it.  It  is  seldom 
that  ladies  make  the  excursion,  but 
they  might  do  so  with  great  delight. 
The  boatmen  and  hunters  of  the  region 
are  fine,  hearty,  intelligent  and  obliging 
fellows.  That  wonderiUl  ravine,  the 
«« Walled  Banks  of  the  Ausable,"  (  see 
Index,)  should  be  seen  by  the  Saranac 
touristj  on  his  way  from  Lake  Cham- 
plain  to  Keeseville. 

The  Adirondack  MoantaiiM.  The 
Adirondack  region  may  be  reached  by 
private  conveyance  (only)  over  a  rude 
mountain  road  from  Schroon  Lake, 
above  Lake  George,  or  more  conveni- 
ently from  Crown  Point  viUage,  just 
beyond  the  ruins  of  Fort  Ticonderoga, 
on  Lake  Ghamplain.  The  distance  thence 
is  some  80  miles,  and  requires  a  day  to 
travel.  The  tourist  in  this  region  will 
move  about  by  land  more  than  by  water, 
as  among  the  Saranacs ;  for,  although 
the  lakes  are  numerous  enough,  it  is 
among  and  upon  the  hills  that  the  chief 
attractions  are  to  be  found.  The  ac- 
commodations are  rude  enough — ^the 
only  inn  being  the  boarding-house  at 
the  village  of  the  Adirondack  Iron 
Works.  Stopping  at  this  point,  as  head- 
quarters, he  may  make  a  pleasant  jour- 
ney down  Lake  Sanford  nearby,  on  one 
ude,  and  upon  Lake  Henderson  on  the 
other  hand.  In  one  water  he  ought  to 
troll  for  pickerel,  and  in  the  other,  cast 
his  fly  for  trout ;  and  upon  boll||  eojoy 
the  noble  glimpses  of  the  famous 
mountain  peaks  of  the  Adirondack 
group,  the  cliflb  of  the  Qreat  Indian 
Pass,  of  Mounts  Golden,  Mlntyre,  Echo 
Mountain,  and  other  bold  scenes.  It 
wiU  be  a  day's  jaunt  for  him  afterwards 
to  explore  the  wild  gorge  of  the  Indian 
Pass,  five  miles  distant ;  another  day's 
work  to  visit  the  dark  and  weird  waters 
of  Avalanche  Lake ;  and  yet  another  to 
reach  the  Preston  Ponds,  five  miles  in  a 


170 


MHW  YORK. 


Jk»  Adirondaolu— Lake  Fl«aMUit 


Lake  Henderson,  in  the  Adirondaoka,  N.  T. 


different  direction.  He  will  find,  in- 
deed, occupation  enough  for  many  days, 
in  exploring  these  and  many  other 
points,  wliich  we  may  not  tarry  to 
catalogue ;  and,  in  any  case,  he  must 
have  48  hours  to  do  the  tramp,  par  ex- 
eelhnee,  of  the  Adirondaclc — the  visit  to 
the  summit  of  the  brare  Tehawus,  or 
Mount  Marcy,  the  monarch  of  the  re- 
gion. Tehawus  is  12  miles  away,  and 
the  ascent  is  extremely  toilsome. 

The  Adhronckioks  (named  after  the 
Indian  nation  whion  once  inhabited 
these  fiustnesses)  lie  chiefly  in  the  county 
of  Essex,  though  they  extend  into  aU 
the  jurisdictions  around.  Mount  Maroy, 
or  Tehawus,  "the  Oload  Splitter,**  is 
6,467  feet  high.  Mount  M^Intjrre  has 
an  elcTation  almost  as  great.  The  Dial 
Mountain,  M'Marten,  and  Golden  are 
also  vwy  lofty  peaks,  impressively  seen 
from  tne  distance,  and  inexhaustible  in 
the  attractions  which  their  ravines,  and 
brooks,  and  waterfitlls  present.  White 
Face  and  other  grand  hiU  pealu  belong  to 
the  neighboring  range  called  the  Eeene 
Mountams.  The  Hudson  Biver  rises  in 
this  wilderness. 

Lake  PlAHant.  To  reach  Lake 
Pleasant,  and  the  adjoin!  tig  waters  of 
Round,  Piseoo,  and  LouIf  J^es — a  fa- 
vorite and  enchanting  sunr  mer  resort  i^nd 
sporting  ground— 4ake  t\ie  Central  Rail; 


way  fi>om  Albany,  as  fkr  as  Amster^ 
dam,  and  thence,  by  stage  or  carriage, 
to  Holmes'  Hotel,  on  Lake  Pleasant. 
The  ride  from  Amisterdam  is  about  80 
miles.  The  stage  stops  overnight  at  a 
village,  en  route.  Mr.  Holmes*  house  is 
an  excellent  place,  with  no  absurd  lux- 
uries, but  with  every  comfort  f6r  which 
the  true  sportsman  can  wish.  It  is  a 
delightAil  summer  home  for  the  student, 
and  may  be  visited  very  satisfiu)torily 
by  ladies.  The  wild  lands  and  waters 
here  are  a  part  of  the  lake  region  of 
northern  New  York,  ofi^  which  we  have 
already  seen  so^iething  on  the  Saranacs, 
and  among  the  Adirondaoks.  The  Sar- 
anao  region  is  connected  with  Lake 
Pleasant  by  intermediate  waters  and 
portages.  The  deer,  and  other  game, 
is  abundant  here  in  the  forests,  and  fine 
trout  may  be  taken  in  all  the  brooks 
and  lakes.  Lake  Pleasant  and  its  pic- 
turesque c<m/rire»f  lie  in  Hamilton 
Oounty. 

All  this  northern  part  of  ^jTew  Tork  is 
quite  similar  in  its  attractions  to  the 
wilderness  in  the  upper  part  of  the  State 
of  Mi^e. 

TO  LAKE  MAHOPAO. 

From  New  Tork,  via  Harlem  Railroad 
from  White  and  Centre  streets,  or  from 
Fourth  aTenue  and  Twenty-sixth  street, 


NKW  TOBK. 


171 


The  llthopM— LabMioB  and  Bbanm  Springn 


New  Tork,  61  miles,  to  Oroton  Falls 
Station.  (See  Harlem  Boute  from  New 
York  to  Albany.)  * 

Stages  leave  Croton  Falls  for  Lake 
Mahopao,  five  miles,  on  the  arrival  of 
the  cars;  stage  fkre,  86  cents. 

LalM  Hajioptiu  a  favorite  snmmer 
resort,  in  tlw  immediate  vicinity  of  New 
Tork,  and  much  frequented  by  its  citi- 
zens, both  for  a  day's  excursion  and  as 
a  continued  home,  lies  in  the  western 
part  of  the  town  of  Garmel,  Putnam 
County,  New  Tork,  18  miles  east  from 
Peekskill,  on  the  Hudson,  imd  five  miles 
fit>m  Croton  Falls  Station,  on  the  Har- 
lem Railroad.  The  lake  is  nine  miles 
in  circumference,  and  is  about  1800  feet 
above  the  sea.  It  is  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal sources  of  supply  to  the  Croton. 
Though  the  landscape  has  no  very  bold 
features,  but  little  to  detain  the  ariwt^ 
yet  its  quiet  waters,  its  pretty  wooded 
islands,  the  romantic  resorts  in  its 
vicinage,  the  throngs  of  pleasure-seek- 
ing strangers,  the  lH>ating,  and  fishing, 
and  other  rural  sports,  make  it  a  most 
agreeable  spot  for  either  a  brief  visit  or 
long  residence.  There  are  many  at- 
tractive localities  of  hill  and  water 
sceuerv  around  Mahopao.  There  were 
two  pleasant  hotels  here— but  one, 
(Gregory's)  was  destroyed  by  fire,  Janu- 
ary, 1867.  It  will  probably  be  rebuilt 
in  season  for  the  travel  of  the  present 
summer. 

LEBANON  SPBINOS  AND  SHAKES 
YILLAOS. 

Shaker  Village,  at  New  Lebanon, 
New  York,  two  miles  fit>m  the  Springs, 
is  a  station  on  the  Western  Railway, 
from  Boston  to  Albany-^6  miles  from 
Albany. 

It  may  be  readily  reached  from  New 
Tork  by  the  Hudson  River  Route  to 
the  City  of  Hudson,  and  thence  by  the 
Hudson  and  Berkshire,  and  the  Albany 
and  Boston  Roads,  or  by  the  Harlem 
Railroad  and  its  connections  with  the 
above-mentioned  routes. 

There  are  ample  accommodations  for 
the  traveller  at  this  favorite  watering- 
place,  in  a  well-appointed  hotel,  a 
watei^ure   establishment,  fto.,  pleas- 


antly perched  on  a  hill  slope,  over- 
looking a  beautlAil  valley.  There  are 
pleasant  drives  all  around,  over  good 
roads,  to  happy  viUages,  smiling  kke- 
lets,  and  Invltmg  spots  of  many  char- 
acters. Trout,  too,  may  be  taken  in 
the  neighborhood.  The  water  of  the 
Strings  flows  from  a  cavity  10  feet  hi 
diameter,  and  in  sufficient  volume  to 
'work  a  mill.  Its  temperature  is  72". 
It  is  soft  and  pleasantly  niited  for  bath- 
ing uses,  is  quite  taiteless  and  inodor- 
ous. For  cutaneous  affections,  rheuma- 
tism, nervous  debiUty,  liver  complidnt, 
4c.,  it  is  an  admirable  remedial  agent. 
The  village  of  New  Lebanon,  or  the 
celebrated  Shaker  settlement,  is  two 
miles  from  the  Springs,  and  is  a  point 
of  great  interest  to  the  visitors  there,, 
especially  on  Sunday,  when  their  singu- 
lar forms  of  worship  may  be  witnessed. 

8HAB0N  SPBIN6S. 

From  Albany,  New  Tork,  by  the 
Central  Railroad  for  Buffalo,  as  far  as 
Palatine  Bridge,  66  miles;  thence  by 
stage,  10  miles,  over  a  plank  road.  The 
most  ancient,  and  perhaps  the  best 
hotel  is  the  Pavilion,  an  establishment 
large  enough  to  accommodate  800 
guests.  The  Eldridge  House,  also  well- 
appointed,  is  nearer  to  the  Springs,  and 
is  less  expensive  than  the  PavUion.  The 
scenery  of  the  neighborhood  is  highly 
attractive,  and  the  panorama,  com- 
manded by  the  eminence  on  which  the 
Pavilion  stands,  is  remarkably  fine. 

The  waters  are  pure  and  clear,  and 
although  they  fiow  for  one-fourth  of  a 
mile  from  their  source  with  other  cur- 
rents, tiiey  yet  preserve  their  own  dis- 
tinct character.  The  fall  here  is  of 
sufficient  force  and  volume  to  turn  a 
milL  It  tumbles  over  a  ledge  of  per- 
pendicular rocks,  with  a  descent  of  some 
66  feet.  The  magnesia  and  the  sulphur 
springs  much  resemble  the  White  Sul- 
phur of  Virginia. 

Cherry  Valley  is  hi  the  vicinage  of 
Sharon  Springs,  accessible  also  from 
Palatine  Bridge,  on  the  Albany  and 
Buffalo  road,  and  from  Canajoharie,  on 
the  Erie  Canal,  from  which  it  lies 
about  26  miles  in  a  -south^weBt  (Urection. 


172 


NMW  TOBK. 


i^ 


OolmnMa,  Aron  and  Blebllald  fipriaft— Loac  lalmd. 


Otaego  Lake  and  Ooojpentown,  fa- 
moui  ai  the  hoihe  of  the  wte  Fenimore 
Cooper  the  novelif  t,  are  near  by. 

COLUMBIA  BPBIN08. 

From  New  Tork,  by  Hudion  lUrer 
Bailway,  or  iteamboate  to  Hudson; 
thence,  by  carriage  or  stage,  four 
miles. 

The  Columbia  Springs  hare  of  late' 
years  grown  into  great  popular  favor. 
They  are  easily  accessible,  Iring  only 
four  miles  f^om  the  CAty  of  Hudson. 
They  are  within  the  town  of  Stockport, 
Columbia  County,  New  Tork.  The  site 
and  grounds  are  highly  varied  and  pic- 
turesque,  jumping  delightfbily  from 
hiil  to  dale,  firom  forest  glen  to  grassy 
lawn. 

There  is,  too,  a  mepry  brooklet,  which 
winds  coquettishly  through  the  land- 
scape, affording  now  a  quiet  slope  for 
some  '*  melancnolv  Jacques,"  now  a 
dashing  cascade  for  him  of  brighter 
mood.  In  the  immediate  neighbor- 
hood, moreover,  there  flows  a  larger 
water,  offering  all  the  country  charms 
of  boating  and  fishing.  The  hotel  here 
is  large  and  well  appointed,  and  Mr. 
Charles  B.  Nash,  the  enterprising  pro- 
prietor, is  every  year  swelling  its  con- 
vetUences  and  comforts,  and  adding  to 
the  seductions  of  the  occupations  and 
enjoyments,  and  to  the  beauty  of  the 
scenery  out  of  doors. 

AVON  8PBIN0& 

The  Avon  Springs  may  be  reached  by 
the  Central  Railway  from  Albany  to 
Buflhlo,  via  Rochester,  from  which  city 
they  are  distant  20  miles.  The  village 
of  Avon  is  upon  the  Genesee  River, 
which  it  overlooks  from  a  charming 
terrace  100  feet  above.  On  this  lofty 
porition  the  picturesque  landscape  of 
the  neighborhood  is  seen  to  great  ad- 
vantage. The  Springs  are  near  at 
hand,  a  little  to  the  south-west.  With 
ample  hotel  conveniences  and  enjoy- 
ments, the  Avon  Springs  meet  the 
popular  favor  they  so  well  deserve. 

BIOHFIELD  8PBIN08,  N.  T. 
Richfield  Springs  are  reached  from 


Herkimer,  81  miles  from  Albany,  on  the 
Central  Road  to  Buffalo.  They  are  in 
the  town  of  Richfield,  Otsego  County, 
south-east  of  Utica,  near  the  head  of 
Canaderaga,  one  of  the  numerous  lakee 
of  all  this  part  of  New  Tork.  Otsego 
Lake  is  six  miles  distant ;  and  another 
biz  miles  will  take  the  traveller  to 
Cooperstown.  Cherry  Valley,  Spring- 
field, and  other  villages  are  near  by. 

LONG  I8LAND. 

ZofMT  Itland,  a  part  of  the  State  of 
New  York,  is  US  mileH  in  length,  and,  at 
some  pohtts,  about  20  in  breadUi ;  with 
the  Atlantic  on  the  south,  and  the  Long 
Island  Sound  on  the  north.  The 
upper  Dart  of  the  island  is  agreeably 
diversified  with  hills,  though  the  sur- 
face is  for  the  most  part  strikingly  level. 
The  coast  is  charmind;ly  indented  with 
bays ;  and  delicious  fresh-water  ponds, 
fed  by  springs,  are  every  where  found 
on  terraces  of  varying  elevation.  These 
little  lakes,  and  the  varied  coast-views 
give  Long  Island  picturesque  features, 
which,  if  not  grand,  are  certainly  of 
most  attractive  and  wlnnhig  ^character, 
yet  heightened  by  the  rural  beauty  of 
the  numerous,  quiet  littie  towns,  and 
charming  summer  villas. 

The  i&ces  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  New  Tork,  we  have  already  men- 
tioned among  the  suburban  resorts  of 
that  city,  and  we  might  almost  have  in- 
cluded the  whole  island  in  that  classifi- 
cation, BO  easily  is  every  part  reached 
either  by  the  steamboats,  or  by  the 
railway  which  traverses  the  length  of 
the  island,  from  Brooklyn  96  nules  to 
Greenport. 

The  lower  shore  of  the  island,  which 
is  a  net-work  of  shaUow,  land-locked 
waters,  extending  70  miles,  is  the  re- 
sort of  innumerable  fiocks  of  aquatic 
fowl,  and  thither  go  the  New  Tork 
sportsmen  or  gunners  for  pastime,  and 
glory  for  theifselves,  and  for  delights 
for  the  tables  of  ttieir  city  friends.  In 
no  other  part  of  the  Union  is  there  a 
greater  variety  and  abundance  of  wild 
birds  than  on  this  coast,  and  no  where 
else  are  they  more  systematically  sought. 
To  answer  the  wants  of  the  sportsmen, 


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^re  to  be 

Jriotorious 

«"  ^at  every 

ce  firom 

loreover, 
conveyed 
'}  ^iot  B,  mile 
I  .AThatwith 
i,      the  dark- 
J«rtainty  of 
hazard  of 
4  It  to  con- 
'^  Ad  inter- 
hands  in 
L,Jkl  battle. 
f-\\^  troops 


feUows 


n  after 
ear  the 
account 
erdam, 
terdam 
er  part 

^fon,  and 
and 

camp  of 


^**fe^*>?^'»#sft|if^ii^iS^^8^'^s^  ■'i-i^immmi^M  ^^^^ 


r-v 


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l]   f:: 


.(frv-i.- 


MJBW  JEBBBT. 


Long  Idaad— Home  «f  9>3ruit— B«ttlA  of  Lmtg  Mtai. 


ffl 


K 


Mcdlept  imooBDanodatioiia  hare  b«en 
•irery  where  proidded  in  the  way  of 
ojpmfortable  hotels  and  boat  equipwra. 
Oe^MBMM^  the,  home  of  the  Poet 
Biryant,  is  near  the  pretty  vMhige  of 
Bo^n,  at  the  liead  of  Hempstead  JQay, 
•boat  two  hours'  Journey  ftom  New 
Kork  by  stean^t^oatto  Glen  Oove,  and 
^nce  by  stagi ;  or  by  th^  Long  Islattd 
%ilway  20  mfles  to  HenqMitetd  Brandb, 
sjpd  by  connecting  stages^  Oedarmote 
ii  a  spot  of  grea^  thoagh  qniet  lector* 
efqae  beauty,  overlooiuQg  Hempstead 
Hay,  and  the  Connecticut  shoiv  across 
t^e  Sound.    Many  of  the  churning, 

^rraced,  spring-waf\,x    lakes  of  which 
have  spoken  alria^-;     r^  %mong  the 

leasant  and  nniq>  c.  i  «s  of  the 
^  9ng  Island  land8cap<  \:  I'ound  with* 
hi  the  domain  of  Cedarmere,  in  the  vil- 
Itae  of  Roslyn,  and,  indeed,  through 
i^the  vicinagefdr  miles  around.  Wiui- 
i|  a  pleasant  strcdl  of  Mr.  Bryant^  res- 
idence is  Ham|«tead  HiU,  the  highest 
l|nd  OK  LonK  Uaad.  This  fine  emi- 
ifence  oyerloNcs  ike  Sound  and  its  in> 
Itts  on.  the  one  hapd,  and  the  ocean 
teach  OH"  this  otlier;  at  its  base  the 
^Uage  of  Boslynis  nestkd  among  green 
t;ree8,  and  fdadd  lakelets.  The  house 
it  Gedarmeitft  makes  no  architectural 
firetenrions;  though  it  &lls  most  agree- 
^ly  into  all  the  charming  lectures, 
which  9WJ  changing  step  over  the 
llillsj  or  ilbng  the  margin  of  the  ponds 
presentr  to  view. 

Batttoof  I«oagIiluia(Augostl'776). 
The  th<mghts  of  the  tourist  on  the  quiet 
pastoral  J^fdns  of  Long  Island,  will  re- 
vert with  interest  to  that  eventful  night 


when  the  British  troops  under  Sir  Henr^ ' 
OUnton,  Lord  Oomwallis,  and  Oenenu 
Howe,  made  their  sUent,  unsunpected 
march  from  Hatlands,  through  the 
swamps  and  passes  to  Bedford  Hills, 
stealing  upon  the  rear,  and  almost  snr> 
rounding  tite  patriot  lines ;  "  that  able 
and  SaM  scheme  whfoh  cost  the  Ameri- 
cans the  deadly  battle  of  Long  Isbnd, 
with  the  lose  of  neariy  2,000  out  of  tho 
5,000  men  engaged." 

The  surpriM  of  the  attack,  tho  ob- 
stinacy of  the  conflict,  the  bold  retreat, 
and  the  loss  of  the  city  of  New  York, 
to  which  it  led,  make  this  battle  one  of 
the  most  romantic  episodes  in  tho  his- 
tory of  the  Revolution. 

"Never,"  says  Mr.  Irving,  "did  re- 
treat reqmre  greater  secrecy  and  cir^ 
cumspection.  Nine  thousand  men,  with 
all  the  munitions  of  war,  were  to  be 
withdrawn  from  before  a  victorious 
army,  encamped  so  near  that  every 
stroke  of  the  spade  and  pick-axe  from 
their  trenches  could  be  heard. 

"The  retreating  troops,  moreover, 
were  to  be  embarked  and  conveyed 
across  a  strait,  three-quarters  of  a  mUe 
wide,  swept  by  rapid  tides.  What  with 
the  greatness  of  the  stake,  the  dark- 
ness of  the  night,  the  uncertainty  of 
the  dettgn,  and  the  extreme  hazard  of 
the  issue,  it  would  be  difficult  to  con- 
ceive a  more  deeply  solemn  and  inter- 
esting scene. 

"Washington  wrung  his  hands  in 
agony  at  the  sight  of  this  &tal  battle. 
'Good  God!*  cried  he,  as  his  troops 
were  swept  down,  *  what  brave  fdUowa 
I  must  lose  to-day  1  * " 


NEW  JEESEY. 

SnttunRMTS  were  made  in  this  State- at  Bergen,  by  the  Dutch,  soon  after 
their  arrival  in  New  Tork.  In  1627  a  Swedish  colony  was  founded  near  the 
shores  of  the  Dehtware,  hi  the  south-western  part  of  the  State.  A  dioU  account 
4f  the  quarrels  of  thdse  Swedish  folk  with  the  Dutchmen  of  New  Amsterdam, 
may  be  found  in  Diedridc  Knickerbocker's  solemn  history  of  the  Amsterdam 
colonists.  New  Jersey  is  one  of  the  old  Thirteen  States.  She  did  her  part 
nobly  in  the  long  war  of  Independence.  The  famous  battles  of  Trenton,  and 
of  Frinoeton,  and  of  Monmouth,  at  all  of  which  Washington  was  present  and 
victorious,  occurred  within  her  limits.  Morristown  was  the  winter  camp  of 
the  American  army  in  ITYe-'tt. 


*K-?-tC>' 


i 


ri 


174 


Mew  jbrsbt. 


Bootes  from  New  York  to  PhiUdelphlft— 'The  New  Jeney  BtUwaj. 

New  Jersey  has  not  a  very  wide  territory,  yet  she  presents  many  natural 
attractions  to  the  traveller.  Her  sea-ooast  abounds  in  favorite  bathing  and 
sporting  resorts,  much  visited  by  the  citizens  of  New  Torlc  and  Philadelphia. 
Among  these  Summer  haunts  are  Gape  May,  Long  Branch,  Sandy  Hook,  Ab- 
secum  Beach,  Deal,  Squam  Beach,  and  Tuckerton. 

In  the  southern  and  central  portions  of  tids  State  the  country  is  flat  and  sandy ; 
in  the  north,  are  spme  ranges  of  picturesque  hills,  interspersed  with  charming 
lakes  and  ponds.  Some  of  the  Alleghany  ridges  traverse  New  Jersey,  forming 
the  spurs  known  as  Schooley's  Mountidn,  Trowbridge,  the  Ramapo,  and  Second 
Mountains.  In  the  north-western  part  of  the  State,  are  the  Blue  Mountains. 
The  Nevisink  Hills  rising  nearly  400  feet  on  the  Atlantic  side,  are  usually  the 
first  and  last  land  seen  by  ocean  voyagers  as  they  approach  and  leave 
New  York.  The  celebrated  Palisade  Rocks  of  the  Hudson  River  are  in  this 
Stftte. 


NEW  TOBK  TO  PHILADELPHIA. 

There  are  two  great  routes  between 
the  cities  of  New  York  and  Philadel- 
phia, one  known  as  the  New  Jersey 
ndlway  Ihie,  and  the  other  as  the  Gam- 
den  and  Amboy  route.  The  former  is 
the  most  expeditious ;  tlie  latter,  being 
partly  by  water,  is  the  most  agreeable 
iu  summer  time. 

Ihe  New  Jtruy  Bailway  Route, 
This  route  passes  over  the  New 
Jersey,  and  the  Philadelphia,  and 
Trenton  Railroads.  Leaves  New  Tork 
at  foot  of  Gortland  street  (by  ferry 
across  the  Hudson  to  Jersey  Gity),  sev- 
eral times  each  day.  Distance,  87 
ipiles;  time  (express  trains),  four  hours. 

STATIONS. 

Nbw  York — Jersey  City,l  mile ;  New- 
ark, 9;  Elizabeth,  16;  Rahway,  19; 
TJniontown,  23;  Metuchin,  2?;  New 
Brunswick,  81;  Dean's  Pond,  89; 
Kingston,  48;  Princeton,  47;  Tren- 
ton, 67 ;  Bordentown,  62 ;  Burlington, 
68;  Gamden,  86;  Bristol,  70;  Goru- 
well's,  74;  Tacony,  79;  Kensington, 
86 ;  Philaoelphia,  87. 

This  route,  lying  as  it  does,  between 
the  two  greatest  cities  on  the  continent 
of  America,  is  an  immense  thorough- 
fare, over  which  floods  of  travel  pour 
unceasingly  by  day  and  by  night.  The 
region  is  populous  and  opulent,  and 
necessarily  thronged  with  towns  and 
villages,  and  viUas ;  for  20  or  26  miles 
from  each  terminus,   over  which  the 


two  cities  spread  their  suburbs,  the 
crowded  trains  are  passing  and  repass- 
ing momently. 

Leaving  Jersey  Gity  (see  New  York 
and  vicinity),  the  track  over  which  we 
pass  for  two  miles,  is  that  used  also  by 
the  great  Erie  Railway,  and  which  is 
traversed  by  all  the  thousands  daily 
voya^g  from  every  part  of  the  Gana- 
das,  the  New  Enghmd  States,  and  New 
York,  for  any  and  all  regions  of  the 
wide  South.  Perhaps  no  other  two 
miles  of  railway  in  the  world  bears 
such  prodigious  freights  of  men  and 
merchandise  as  this. 

Newark,  9  miles  from  New  York, 
and  78  from  Philadelphia;  settled  in 
1666;  population  (in  1856)  60,000,  is 
upon  the  right  bank  of  the  Passaic 
River,  4  miles  from  its  entrance  into 
Newark  Bay.  It  is  built  on  an  ele- 
vated plain,  regularly  laid  out  in  wide 
btreets,  crossing  at  right  angles.  Many 
portions  of  the  city  are  elegantly  built, 
and  in  its  most  recherche  quarter,  are 
two  charming  parks,  fiUed  with  noble 
elms.  Among  its  most  imposing  public 
edifices,  are  the  Gourt  House,  an  Egyp- 
tian structure  of  brown  stone ;  the 
Market  street  Railway  Depdt ;  and  the 
Library  Buildings,  also  in  Market  street. 

Among  tiie  chief  literary  institutions 
of  the  city  are,  the  Library  Associa- 
tion, the  State  Historical  Society,  the 
New  Jersey  Literary  Association,  the 
Wesleyan  Institute,  and  the  Association 
of  Teachers  and  Friends  of  Education. 
Among  its  forty  churches  are  many 


?#' 


*5^ 

many  natural 
bathing  and 
PhUadelphia. 

ly  Hook,  Ab> 

lat  and  sandy ; 
rith  charming 
irsey,  forming 
D,  and  Second 
le  Mountains, 
re  usually  the 
sh  and  leave 
er  are  in  this 


suburbs,  the 
ig  and  repass- 

ee  New  York 

Ter  which  we 

I;  used  also  by 

and  which  is 

ousands  daily 

I  of  the  Cana- 

ites,  and  New 

igions  of  the 

,0  other  two 

world  bean 

of  men  and 

New  York, 
settled  in 
|»)  60,000,  is 
tthe  Passaio 
itrance  into 
on  an  ele* 
lout  in  wide 
^gles.  Many 
tntly  built, 
■quarter,  are 
1  with  noble 
jsing  public 
B,  an  Egyp- 
ptone ;  the 
and  the 
Irket  street, 
institutions 
ry  Associa* 
Viety,  the 
pation,  the 
Bociation 
Sducation. 
■are  many 


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▼ery  imiKlMti|(  edtflees.  Of  inese,  pw 
tiouUr  nwntioA  BMir  be  mde  oJ^e 
Oftth^, ,  on  Wuhington  street ;  the 
aew  rteibTterlui  clmrehee—one  iie«r 
the  Lower  Park,  xa^  the  other  in  ffiffh 
■treet ;  j^d  the  JfethdcHit  b  Mir^t 
street.  Ofher  elegwit  church  rtrnctoieB 
Me  now  in  progresg.  In  ewsh  of  the 
eeTen  wwda  of  the  oit^  there  Is  a  fine 

Eablic^  fldhooi,  with   depftrtments   for 
«*°  !^^  •***  *  *o*»*  anmber  of  pn- 
inb  of  8,100.  ■ 

Newark  is  distinguished  for  its  mantt- 
faotures,  Which  are  hurge  and  proepM^. 
ous.  StMmlNMits,  as  weU  lUi  taUw^ 
connect  it  with  New  Totk.  It  is  4e 
wstern  lerminqs  of  the  Morris  and 
gMx   Bdlroad    and  of   the    Morris 

i®*±l5^ ' "  ""1*  ftSSwToif^ 
cJr?2?-.«P**'Jj^.  BBMbethtowi; 
greek,  two  miles  tnm  its  eatr«nee  into 

S*»*f»  %d  Sound.    It  was  once  the 

SJS  HiS"*  ""^l^"^  J?'  ^  State. 
Here  difeiges  the  N.  J.  Central  B.  B.. 
61  mUe^honce,  into  the  interior,  at 
Easton,  Fenn.,  on  th»Belawm^  riWr. 
,o^^^»  ^'  '•—Population  (in 
IW:  •^«*  W 1 19  mUes  fromNew 
York ;  His  upon  both  sides  of  the  Rah- 
way  Riw.  The  Bahwaj  Female  In- 
■titute  m  a  ilourishing  establishment 


and  so  th^  Union  School  and  a  Ohuwibal 
BoaiJbt.schDOl  for  boy^  Rahw^fa 
noted  for  its  mattofootiires  of  caniams. 

fsg^if^  **'««»''"••  •*«•  sss 

8,000^hides  are  annuidlysent  hence 
to  fte  Sonthem  maricets.  * 

^J^ff  fcwMrtrloikil— PopuUtfon  ffai 
WWX  18.000,  is  at  the  he£d  of  S»aS 
bMit  navigation  on  tiie  Baritan  Blver. 
TUs  Is  the  SMt  of  Butgen  CoUege  and 
School,  founded  in  1770.    The  Streets 
on_the  ri?er  are  narrow  and  crooked 
and  the  ground  low ;  but  those  on  the 
Wg  "•»*=^*w  wide,  and  many  of  the 
^^*™*g  ^  iwy  »iw»t  and  elegant. 
nuT^ded  by  ihie  gardens.    Prom  the 
|Ste  of  Btttgers  Coli%e  on  the  hOL  there 
is  awide  prospect,  terminated  by  moon- 
Uins  on  the  nwth,  ind  by  Baritan  Bay 
^n  ^e  east  T^  DeUwire  «nd  Bariten 
^gmsi  extends  from  Kew  Brunswick  to 
^wdentown,  on  the  Delaware  Biver,  48 
B^    This  canal  is  76  feet  wide  and 
rfeet  deoR  and  u  n|tyigated  by  sloops 
Md  steamboats  of  UO  tons.    This  fine 
work  cost  $2,500,000.     The   raOWAy 
here  crosses  the  Baritan  Biver. 

RlBMloiLr— Population,  2,600 ;  built 
Oh  an  elerat.^  ridge ;  Is  ^pUasait  tt^ 

?«  towi^of  Hteriry  ani  l&torioal  4. 
terest.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  Princeton 
CoDege,  one  of  the  oldest  and  most 
fkmous  educational  establishments  hi 


.^'- 
•^/>  1 


Sr" 


176 


irSW  iXBSBT. 


N«w  Tofk  to  PlllbdelphU  bjr  th*  Cundon  nd  Amhoy  Bonto. 


the  countj^j  founded  by  the  Presbyte* 
rians  at  ^ubethtown,  1746,  and  re- 
mored  to  Princeton  in  1767.  Here, 
atflo,  Is  the  Theolorioal  Seminary  of  the 
PreebTterian  ohurdi,  founded  181S.  In 
tills  Tiolniiy  was  fought  the  memorable 
battle  of  January  8, 1777,  between  the 
American  forces  under  General  Wash- 
ington, and  those  of  the  British,  under 
Lieutenant-Colonel  Mawhood,  in  whidi 
the  latter  were  ranauished. 

Trantoa,  the  capital  of  New  Jersey ; 
population  (in  1850),  0,460 ;  is  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Delaware,  80  miles  from 
Philadelphia,  and  67  from  New  Tork. 
The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  has 
many  fine  stores  and  handsome  dwell- 
ings. The  State  House,  whi<jb  is  100 
feet  long  and  60  wide,  is  built  of  stone, 
and  stuccoed,  so  as  to  resemble  granite. 
Its  situation,  on  the  Delaware,  is  very 
beautiful,  commanding  a  fine  view  of 
the  river  and  Ticinity.  Here  is  the 
State  Lunatic  Asylum,  founded  in  1848, 
and  also  the  State  Penitentiary.  Tren- 
ton has  two  daily  and  two  other  news- 
papers. 17  churches,  and  a  State  Libra- 
ry. The  city  is  lighted  with  gas.  The 
Delaware  is  here  crossed  by  a  hand- 
some covered  bridge,  1,100  feet  long, 
resting  on  five  arches,  supported  on 
stone  piers,  and  which  is  considered  a 
fine  spedmen  of  its  kind.  It  has  two 
cartiage-ways,  one  of  which  is  used  bv 
the  railroad.  The  Delaware  and  Rari- 
tan  Oanal,  forming  an  inland  navigation 
from  New  Brunswick,  passes  through 
Trenton  to  the  Delaware  at  Borden- 
^  town.  It  is  8uppUe4  by  a  navigable 
feeder,  taken  from  the  Delaware  28 
miles  north  of  Trenton.  It  was  com- 
pleted in  1884,  at  a  cost  of  $2,600,000. 
The  Delaware  and  Baiitan  ^um  passes 
through  the  city,  and  ccmnecti  it  with 
New  York  and  Philadelphia.  At  chis 
point  the  New  Jersey  Ra&road,  whicb 
we  have  thus  far  traveUed*  67  miles 
from  New  York,  ends,  and  the  Phila- 
delphia and  Trenton,  upon  wUoh  we 
make  the  resfof  our  journey,  begins. 
A  branch  road,  six  miles  long,  connects 
with,  the  Camden  and  Amboy  Bulway 
at  Bordentown.  The  Belvidere,  Dela- 
ware, and  Flemington  Railroad  leads 


hence,  68  miles,  to  Belvidere,  iv  the 
interior,  along  the  Delaware  River. 

Here  was  fought  the  fkmoiis 

BKtU*  cf  Trwtoau— On  Christmas 
night,  in  1776,  and  during  the  most 
gloomy  period  of  the  Revolutionary 
war.  General  Washington  crossed  the 
Delaware  with  2,600  men,  and  eariy  on 
the  mondng  of  the  26th  commenced  an 
attack  upon  Trenton,  then  in  possession 
of  the  British.  So  sadden  and  unex- 
pected was  the  assanlt,  that  of  the  1,600 
German  troops  encamped  there,  906 
were  made  prisoners.  This  successihl 
enterprise  revived  the  sfriirit  of  the  na- 
tion, as  it  was  the  first  victory  gained 
over  the  German  meroenarieSk  General 
Mercer,  a  brave  American  officer,  was 
mortally  wounded  hi  the  attack. 

It  was  here,  upon  Trenton  Bridge, 
that  occurred  tiie  memorable  and  beau- 
tiful reception  of  Washington,  wUle  on 
his  way  from  New  York  to  Mount  Ver- 
non, twelve  years  after  the  glorious 
victory. 

Trenton  was  settled  about  1680,  and 
was  named  in  1720,  in  honor  of  Col.  Wm. 
Trent,  Speaker  of  the  House  of  Assembly. 

(Here  we  take  the  Branch  road,  six 
ies  to  Bordentown,  and  thence  by 
Camden  and  Amboy  line,  or  continue,  as 
we  now  shaJl,  by  Philadelphia  and 
Trenton  route.l 

Bristol  is  a  beautiful  village,  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Delaware,  nearly  op- 
posite Burlington.  The  Delaware  divi- 
cdon  of  the  Pennsylvania  Canal,  which 
communicates  witti  the  Lehigh  at 
Easton,  terminates  here  in  a  spacious 
badn  on  the  Delaware.  Popi,  2,670.  ■ 
Taeony  and  Kensington  are  within 
the  corporate  limits  of  PUIadelphia,  at 
which  dty  we  have  now  arrived.  See  de- 
scription of  Phibdelphia  for  hotels.  We 
will  now  foUow  the  une  of  the  second, 
or  Camden  uid  Amboy  route. 


OAMDBEr  A  AMBOT  (OS  BTSAMBOAT) 
BOUTEk 
TROX  K>W  TOKK  TO  PHILADKI.FHIA. 

Steamboat  for  Philadelphia,  via  Cam-, 
den  and  Amboy  route,  leave  Pier  No.  1 
North  River,  New  York,  daily  (Sundays 


1 

fi 
r 
o 
t 

I 
m 
o 
it 

ai 
ai 

VI 
SI 


te 
til 


iin 


Now  Totk  to  PhUadolphUi  by  tho  Oundoa  ud  Amboy  Bonto. 


HIA. 

a  Gam-. 

No.l 

iindays 


•zoepted),  at  6  a.x.  and  2  r.M.,  for  Sooth 
Amboy,  27  milci,  and  thenoe  bv  rail. 
Fare  by  morning  line  is  |2  26;  by  the 
afternoon  (JFcpr«M)  line,  |8. 

Oamden  atut  Ambojf  BaUroad  from 
8o¥tk  Ambojf. — Statiohb:  New  York, 
South  Amboy,  27  miles ;  South  River, 
— ;  Spotswood,  88;  Jamesbuiw,  42; 
Prospect  Plains,  — ;  Cranberry  Station, 
46 ;  Hightstown,  49 ;  Oentreyille,  68 ; 
Newtown,  66 ;  Sandhills,  68 ;  Borden- 
town,  68;  HammePs  Turn,  68;  Bar* 
lington,  71 ;  Bererly,  77 ;  Ranoooas, 
78 ;  Palmyra,  88 ;  Fish  House,  86 ; 
Camden,  89 ;  PhUadelphiei,  90. 

In  the  summer  season,  no  more  de- 
lightfiil  journey  can  be  made  than  the 
firat  twentynseyen  miles  of  our  present 
route  across  the  lovely  Bay  and  Harbor 
of  New  York,  to  South  Amboy,  past 
the  viUaed  and  villaged  shores  of  Staten 
Island,  and  the  Raritan  River.  The 
scenery  of  this  re^on  is  described  in 
our  chapter  upon  New  York  City  and 
its  vicinity. 

Booth  Amboy  is  the  landhig  place, 
and  also  the  terminus  of  the  Camden 
and  Amboy  Railroad.  Upon  our  arri- 
val there,  we  are  transported,  in  a  short 
space  of  time,  from  the  steamboat  to 
the  railroad  cars ;  and  after  a  slight  de- 
tention, we  proceed  on  our  journey  up 
the  steep  ascent  from  the  river,  and 


soon  enter  a  line  of  deep  catting 
through  the  sandhills.  The  road  fi 
thenr  continued  through  a  barren  and 
uninteresting  ref^on  of  country,  towards 
the  Delaware  at 

Bondtnlowiif  86  miles  from  Amboy. 
Here  are  the  extensive  grounds  and 
mansion  formerly  occupied  by  the  lat« 
Joseph  Bonaparte.  ex'King  of  Splin, 
which  are  aqiong  tne  most  considcuona 
objects  of  the  place. 

Bordentown  is  dtuated  on  a  steep 
sandbank,  on  the  east  side  of  the  DeU- 
ware.  Although  in  a  commanding  sit- 
uation, the  view  is  greatly  obstructed 
from  the  river.  This  is  a  nlvorite  resort 
of  the  Philadelphians  during  the  sum- 
mer season.  The  Delaware  and  Raritan 
Canal  here  connects  with  Delaware 
River.  A  branch  road,  running  along 
the  canal  and  river,  unites  thb  town 
with  Trenton.    Population,  8,000. 

Bnrliagloii,  settled  in  1670,  and  with 
a  present  popidation  of  about  6,000,  is 
a  port  of  entry  on  the  Delaware,  19 
miles  from  Philadelphia.  Burlineton 
College,  founded  bv  the  Episcopauans 
in  1846,  is  located  here,  and  there  are 
besides,  upon  the  banks  of  the  river, 
two  large  boarding-schools,  one  for 
each  sex.  Burlington  is  connected  with 
Philadelphia  by  steamboat,  and  is  • 
place  of  great  summer  resort  thence. 


Tho  Paaaalc  FsUa,  New  Joney. 


Q* 


# 


178 


Valli  of  the  pMMle-Oap*  Msy-Sflbootojrt  llooBtala. 


i-e^p^- 


^^;«^ 


ww^' 


s^iPfas^iii^*^ 


i'." 


rmw^   ,<r 


_l^T-'>t"  US' ff  >>-.,-.- 


Oreenwood  Lake.  N.  J. 


Btvwij,  bidlt  on  the  banks  of  the 
Delaware  smoe  1848,  has  now  a  popu- 
lation  of  from  1,000  to  1,600.  It  is  a 
suburb  of  Philadelphia,  distant  tUrteen 
miles. 

Oandan  is  at  the  termmns  of  our 
route,  upon  the  banka  of  the  Delaware 
lUver,  immediately  opposite  the  city  of 
Philadelphia,  to  which  we  now  cross  by 
ferry.  For  nirther  mention  of  Oamden, 
and  for  hotels,  etc.,  see  description  of 
PhiladeMiia. 

Tha  FaUi  of  tfa*  FammIo  occur  in 
the  town  of  Paterson,  16  o^s  from 
New  York,  on  the  route  of  the  Erie 
Bailway.  This  bold  passage  on  the 
Passaic,  though  it  has  of  late  years  lost 
much  of  its  ancient  bemty.  Is  sUll  a 
scene  of  great  attraction,  partienhitly 
when  the  stream  chances  to  be  gener* 
Ously  swollen  after  hearv  rains.  Peter- 
son itself  is  an  agreeable  town  of  Tory 
considerable  importance.  It  has  a  pop* 
ulation  of  some  20,000. 

Oapo  Sfayi^— This  fiushionable  sum- 
mer resort  is  at  the  extreme  southern 
Kint  of  New  Jersey,  where  the  Delaware 
y  enters  the  sea.    The  hotel  and 


bathing  accommodations  here  are  ample 
and  excellent.  Oape  Mav  may  be 
reached  by  steamboats,  through  the 
season,  from  New  Tork  and  PUladel- 
phia. 

BCHOOLETV  MOnNTADff,  N.  J.-^UDiyB 
LAKB. 

SotaodkjVi  M onnteiii,  in  New  Jer- 
sey, is  a  convenient  and  popular  summer 
resort  and  residence  of  the  citizens  of 
New  York.  It  is  readily  reached  from 
New  York  by  the  N.  J.  Central  R.B.  to 
White  House,  or  by  the  Monis  and 
Essex  Railway  for  Haoketstown,  and  by 
stage  cUrect  to  the  Mountidn.  Boutl^ 
emers  proceed  via  Philadelphia  and 
New  Bmnswick,  tonneeting  with  the 
New  Jersey  Central  Bailway  at  Bound 
Brook,  and  itom  this  line  as  aboTe. 

The  height  of  the  mountafai  is  about 
1,100  feet  aboTe  the  sea.  The  spring 
is  near  the  summit.  It  contdns  muriate 
of  soda,  of  lime,  and  of  magnesia,  sul- 
phate of  Ume,  carbonate  of  magnesia, 
and  silex  and  carbonated  oxide  of  iron. 
The  principal  hotel  Is  the  Belmont 
HalL 


170 


Badd** Lak*— OrMBwood Taka   matt  «l  IMfwtn, 

where  Uut  drMmed  of.  fiuoh  t^'un- 
expected  Tieion  ii  Lake  Meoopln  end 
the  larger  waters  of  Wawayandah.— 


SoddHi  Xtaka^  a  mountain  water, 
deep  and  pure,  and  supplied  with  flah, 
li  seren  mikp  from  the  spring,  and  may 
also  be  reaened  direct  by  railway. 

QBlUrWOOD  LAKB. 

To  Soatsburg,  86  miles  from  New 
Tork,  by  the  N.  T.  and  Brie  Hallway, 
and  thence  IS  milea  (trl-weekly)  bv 
stage ;  or  from  Newburwi  on  the  Hud* 
son  to  Chester  Station,  Erie  route,  and 
from  there  eight  miles  by  stfM. 

To  Qreenwood  Lake,  sometimes  called 
Long  Pond,  is  a  rery  screeable  Jaunt 
from  the  metropolis,  whether  for  the 
pure  ahr  of  the  hills,  the  pleasant  aspects 
of  nature,  or  for  the  sports  of  the  angle 
and  the  gun.  Greenwood  Jies  half  in 
New  Tc^K  and  half  in  New  Jersey,  In 
the  mUNt  oC  *  ^T  l^otnresque  moun* 
tain  ttgjioii.  Ik  b  a  Deautlftil  water  of 
seven  awM  in  extent,  and  all  about  it,  in 
every  ^^stiton,  are  lesser,  but  scarcely 
less  chaml^,  lakes  and  lakelets,  some 
of  which,  as  you  ride  or  ramble  over 
the  country,  delight  your  surprised  eyes. 


This  last  mentioned  lake  is  situated  on 
the  Wawayandah  Moimtains.  about  8| 
miles  fkrom  the  New  Tork  and  New  Jer> 
sey  boundarv  line.  The  word  Waway« 
andah  signifies  winding  stream,  and  is 
very  characteristic  of  the  seiiMntine 
course  of  the  outlet  of  this  lake  towards 
the  WallkilL  Wawayandah  is  ahnoet 
divided  by  an  isbmd  into  two  ponds, 
and  thus  gets  its  komt  name  of  '*  Double 
Pond.**  It  is  very  deep  and  abounds 
in  fine  trout  This  varied  hill  and  Uke 
neighborhood  jpresenta  in  Ita  general 
air  an  admirabm  blending  of  the  wild 
ruggednessof  the  great  mountain  ranges 
and  the  pastoral  sweetness  of  the  fertile 
vaUey  lands:  for  it  possesses  the  fea- 
tures of  both,  though  of  neither  in  the 
highest  degree. 

TlMre  Is  a  comfortable  summer  hotel 
at  the  head  of  Greenwood  Lake.  An 
excursion  thither  from  New  Tork  would 
require  two  or  three  days'  time. 


re. 
about 


DELAWARE. 

DiLAWAMB  is,  after  Rhode  Island,  the  smallest  State  in  the  Union— 4ier  great* 
est  length  and  breadth  being,  respectively,  only  96  and  8*7  miles.  The  first 
settlements  here  were  made  by  the  Swedes  and  Finns,  about  the  year  1627.  In 
1660,  the  country  fell  into  the  possession  of  the  Dutch,  and  in  1664  passed  under 
British  rule.  It  was  ori^nallv  a  portion  of  Pennsylvania,  and  was  governed  by 
the  rulers  of  that  Colony,  until  the  time  of  the  Revolution. 

The  landscape  of  the  northern  portion  of  Delaware  Is  agreeably  varied  with 
modest  hills  and  pleasant  vales.  In  the  central  and  southern  portions  of  the 
State  the  country  is  level,  ending  in  marsh  and  swamp  lands.  The  only  consid- 
erable  waters  are  the  Delaware  River  and  Bay,  on  the  eastern  boundary.  The 
Brandywine  is  a  romantic  stream,  famous  for  the  Revolutionary  battle  fought 
upon  ita  banks  near  the  limits  of  tUs  State,  September,  1*777.  Lords  Comwailis 
and  Howe,  Generab  Washington,  Lafayette,  Greene,  Wavne,  and  other  distin* 
guished  English  and  American  leaders  took  part  in  this  memorable  conflict. 
The  Americans  retreated  to  Germantown  with  a  loss  of  1,200  men,  while  the 
British  remained  in  possession  of  the  field,  with  a  loss  of  about  800. 


BALTIMOBS-FBOM  PHILADELPHIA. 
The  direct  routes  between  Philadel- 
phia and  Baltimore,  are :  the  Railroad 
lAnSy  and  the  Steamboat  and  Railroad 
alternately.  The  distance  by  the  former 


route  is  97  miles.    Jhre,  $8.00 :  time, 
<t»  hours.    By  the  latter  route  the  ^s- 
tance  is  117  mUes.    Fare^  |8.00:  time, 
f0v«n  hours. 
There  is  another  ndhroad  route  be* 


# 


180 


DELAWABB. 


m 


Boate  from  Nar  Tork  to  Phlladolphl*,  vto  Wifaaliifton  and  DoIawuo. 


tween  the  two  dties,  but  4t  is  never 
pasaed  over  by  traveUen  wiehing  to  go 
direct  between  PhiladeljAiiA,  Baltimore 
and  the  South.  Tourists,  whose  time  is 
not  Umited»  and  who  are  desbous  of 
T-arying  the  route  of  trarel,  will  find 
that  over  the  Oolnmbia  Baihraad  to  the 
Susquehanna  Hirer,  thence  to  Tork, 
and  from  thence  to  Bi^timore,  ,a  very 

5 leasant  excursion.  Distance,  168  miles. 
^are,  fS^OO.  Another  route  open  to 
tourist*,  is  from  Philadelphia  by  steam* 
boat  down  the  Delaware  Urer  to  Dela* 
ware  City,  44  miles;  thence  through 
the  Ohesapeake  and  Delaware  Oanal,  16 
miles ;  and  thence  down  Slk  Biver  and 
Chesapeake  Bay  and  up  the  Patapsco 
Biver  to  Baltimore,  56  miles :  total,  116 
miles.  The  great  feature  of  interest 
here,  and  perhaps  the  only  inducement 
to  deviate  from  the  regularly  travelled 
routes,  would  be  the  pleasure  of  seeing 
the  formidable  excavation  on  the  Ches- 
apeake and  Delaware  Canal,  termed  the 
*'  Deep  Cut,**  which  extends  for  *ue  miles, 
and  is  10  feet  deep  in  the  deepeist  part. 
A  bridge  of  2S6  feet  span  extends  over 
this  great  chasm,  at  an  elevation  of  90 
foet  above  the  canal,  under  which  steam- 
boats, schooners,  and  other  small  vessels 
can  pass.  This  canal  is  66  feet  wide  at 
the  surfitce,  and  10  feet  deep,  with  two 
lift  and  two  tide  locks,  100  feet  long  by 
22  wicto.  It  was  completed  in  1829,  at 
a  ops^  of  $2,760,000. 

PHILAnXLPHIA,  WlLlflKOTOK  AKD  BaL- 

TixoBK  Bailboad. — ^TUs  Boad  cxteuds 
from  Phihidelphia  to  Baltimore,  97  miles. 
It  is  the  great  thoroughfiire  between, 
the  two  cities,  and  dtning  the  winter 
months,  the  only  travelled  route. 

Leaving  the  dAp6t  in  the  city,  the 
route  passes  through  the  suburbs  to  the 
SchuyUdU  at  *'Qray*s  Ferty,"  which  it 
crosses  on  a  substantial  bridge,  and 
thence  passes  onward  via  Chester,  Wil- 
mington, Delaware,  Newport  and  Elk- 
ton,  croaring  the  Susquehanna  where  it 
empties  into  the  Chesapeake  Bay  at 
Havre-de-Orace :  thence  Hi  miles  be- 
yond to  Baltimore. 


WUmingtoOi  the  most  hnportantv 
town  on  this  route,  is  situated  between 
the  Brandywhie  Biver  aiMi  Christiana 
Creek,  one  mile  above  thefar  function, 
and  in  the  midst  of  one  of  the  finest 
agricultural  districts  in  the  Middle  Statea 
It  is  built  on  ground  gradually  ridng  to 
the  height  of  112  feet  above  tide-water, 
and  is  regulariy  laid  out,  with  broad 
streets  crossing  each  other  at  right 
angles,  ^ce  1840  both  its  badness 
and  population  have  much  increased: 
at  that  time  it  contained  about  8,000 
inhabitants,  and  now  the  popuhudon 
numbers  about  17,000.  On  the  mandy- 
wine  Biver  are  some  of  the  finest  flenr> 
ing-mills  in  the  United  States,  to  wMoh 
vessels  can  come  drawing  eight  feet  t^ 
water.  It  contains  also  uip  and  steam* 
boat  yards,  a  jfbundry  for  the  manufte* 
ture  of  patent  car-wheels,  whidt  ire 
used  all  over  the  country,  and  a  num- 
ber of  large  manitfacturing  establidi- 
ments  of  various  kinds.  .  It  is  the  seat 
of  a  Catholic  College,  and  is  genendly 
distineuished  for  its  Acadeimes  and 
Boardmg-schools.  .  It  is  connected  with 
New  Castle,  Dover,  and  Seaford  by  rail- 
way ;  and  via  Dowitingstown  with  the 
Columbia  Bailroad,  from  Phikdelphia 
to  Columbia. 

Havxie-d»<3!raoe  is  in  Karyland,  at 
the  head  of  the  Chesapeake  Bay,  on  the 
Susquehanna  Biver,  86  miles  norUi-east 
of  Baltimore.  The  cars  cross  the  river 
by  a  steam  ferry,  sometimes  passing  in 
winter  upon  the  ice  as  in  1851-2.  Havre- 
de-Grace  is  quite  an  old  town.  It  is  the 
southern  terminus  of  the  tide  water  canal. 

Stkaxboat  and  Bailboab  Bovn 
rBOM  Philaoklphia  to  Baltimobb. — ^A 
steamboat  leaves  from  the  foot  of  Dock 
street  every  afternoon,  and  proceeds 
down  the  Delaware  to  Jfeu  Ctuile,  86 
miles ;  thence  by  the  cars  over  the  New 
Castle  and  Frenchtown  Baihroad  to 
lirenektoOn^  17  miles.  At  the  latter 
place,  again  take  the  steamboat,  and 
pass  down  Elk  Biver  and  Chesapeake 
Bay,  and  up  the  Patapsco  Biver  to  Bal- 
timore, 60  miles. 


'V 


»> 


FENlfSTLVAinA. 


181 


Oenenl  mentioa  of  PornqrlTHiiai 


IL 


PENNSYLVANIA. 

FnnreTLTAiOA  is,  in  point  of  population,  the  B«e<md  State  in  tlie  Union,  and  in 
all  respeota  one  of  tlie  most  important  and  interesting.  A  retj  aingnlar  fret  in 
her  history-Hdngular  because  it  has  no  parallel  in  the  annals  of  any  other  mem- 
ber  of  the  Amencan  Oonfederaoy — is,  that  her  territory  was  settled  without  war 
or  bloodshed.  The  doctrines  of  peace  and  good-will,  taught  by  William  Penn 
and  his  qniet4oTing  associates,  when  they  {dtched  their  tents  upon  the  sunny 
banks  of  the  Delaware,  long  serred,  happily,  as  a  charm  over  the  savage  natures 
of  their  Indian  neighbors. 

We  find  no  record  of  battle  and  siege  in  the  story  of  this  State,  from  the  time 
of  the  first  settlement  at  Philadelphia,  in  1682,  until  the  date  of  the  French  and 
Indian  war  in  1Y66.  During  this  year  the  famous  defeat  of  Braddock,  in  which 
Washii^^n,  then  in  his  early  youth,  distinguished  himself,  occurred  at  Pittsburg. 
In  1768,  the  massacre  of  the  Oostenega  Indiam  took  place  in  Lancaster  County. 
In  1*767,  the  southern  boundary  of  the  State,  wliich  has  since  become  fkmous  as 
Mason  and  Dixon's  line,  was  made.  This  line  is  the  proverbial  division  between 
the  Nortiiem,  or  Free,  and  the  Southern,  or  fflave-holding  States. 

Pennsylvania  is  memorable  in  the  annals  of  the  American  Revohititm.  in  which 
■he  jdayed  a  conspicuous  part.  Upon  her  soil  occurred  the  important  battles  of 
Btaadywine  and  Germantown  (1777). 

The  traveller  wiU  seek  here,  also,  for  the  scenes  of  those  celebrated  events, 
tiie  massacres  of  Wyoming  and  Paofi.  Yalley  Forge  was  the  Chief  head-quarters 
of  General  Washington,  and  is  made  yet  more  interesting  by  the  memory  of  the 
Bufferings  there  of  the  patriot  army  during  its  winter  encampment  in  1777  and 
1778.  Philadelphia  was  the  national  capital  until  1789 — a  period  of  nearly  ten 
years — end  here  the  earliest  American  Congresses  assembled.  The  memorable 
revolt  cdled  the  Whkkey  Insurrection,  happened  in  Pennsylvania  in  1794.  This 
disaffection  was  bloodless  and  without  sequence,  as  all  disloyalty  must  ever  be  in 
the  Keystone  State. 

Among  the  great  men  whom  Pennsylvania  has  f^ven  to  the  Bepublic,  we  may 
cite  the  nonored  names  of  Franklin  (though  bom  in  Boston),  Robert  Morris^ 
Fidton,  Rush,  and  Rittenhouse.  Mr.  Buchanan,  the  present  Preui'^ent,  is  a  citt> 
aenofthiiState* 

The  landscape  of  Pennsylvania  is  extremely  diversified  and  beautiful.  One- 
fourth  of  her  great  afea  of  46,000  square  miles  is  occupied  by  mountain  ranges, 
sometimes  reaching  an  elevation  of  2,000  feet.  These  hills,  links  of  the  great 
Alleghany  chain,  run  generally  from  north-east  to  south-west,  through  the  east* 
em,  central,  and  southem  portions  of  the  State.  The  spur  of  this  hill-range  is 
called  South  Mountain,  where  it  rises  on  the  Delaware,  below  Easton.  Next,  as 
we  go  westward,  come  the  Kittatinny,  or  Blue  Mountains,  and  the  Broad  Moun* 
tain,  south  of  the  North  Branch  of  the  Susquehanna.  Across  this  river  is  the 
Tnscarora.  South  of  the  Juniata  are  the  ffideling  HiUs,  and,  lastly,  come  the 
Alleghanies,  dividmg  the  Atlantic  slope  fh>m  th<)  great  Misrissippi  Valley  ref^on. 
West  of  the  Alleghanies,  the  only  hill-ranges  hi  the  Sta^  are  the  minor  ones 
called  the  Laurel  and  the  Chestnut  ridges.  This  belt  of  mountains  extends  over 
a  breadth  of  200  miles,  enclosing  numberless  fertile  valleys,  many  charming  wai- 
ters, and  the  greatest  coal  fields  and  iron  deposito  in  the  Union. 

RiYKse. — ^Pennsylvania  cannot  boast  the  marvellous  lake-scenery  of  the  Em* 
I^  State',  indeed,  she  has  no  lakes,  if  we  except  the  great  Erie  waters  which 
wash  the  riiore  of  the  north-west  comer  of  the  State.  For  this  want,  however, 
the  oharms  of  her  many  picturesque  rivers  well  atone. 


182 


PENKBTLYANIA. 


The  Biyen  of  Peniu7lTaDl»--The  City  of  Philadelphia. 


The  Susquehanna,  the  largest  river 
of  Fennaylvania,  and  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  in  America,  crosses  the  entire 
breadth  of  the  State,  flowing  400  miles 
in  many  a  vinding  bout,  through  moun- 
tain gorges,  rocky  cliffs,  and  broad 
cultivated  meadows.  See  Susquehanna 
River. 

The  Juniata  is  the  chief  affluent  of 
the  Susquehanna.  It  comes  in  from 
the  acclivities  of  the  Alle^hanies  in  the 
west,  through  a  mountain  and  valley 
country  of  great  natural  delight.  See 
Juniata  River. 

The  Delaware  flows  800  miles  from 
its  sources  in  the  GatskiU  Mountains  to 
the  Delaware  Bay,  forming  the  bound- 
ary between  New  York  and  New  Jersey, 
and  afterwards  between  Pennsylvania 
and  Delaware.  It  is  one  of  the  chief 
features  of  the  varied  scenery  of  the 
New  York  and  Erie  Railway,  which 
follows  its  banks  for  90  miles.  (See 
N.  Y.  and  Erie  R.  R.)  Lower  down,  its 
passage  through  the  mountains  forms 
that  great  natural  wonder  of  the  State, 
the  Delaware  Water  Oap.  The  rocky 
cliffs  here  rise  perpendicularly  to  a 
height  of  nearly  1,200  feet.  (See  De- 
laware Water  Gap.)  The  navigation 
of  the  Delaware  is  interrupted  at  Tren- 
ton, N.  J.,  by  falls  and  rapids.  Phila- 
delphia is  on  this  river,  about  40  miles 
above  its  entrance  into  Delaware  Bay. 
The  river  was  named  in  honor  of  Lord 
De  La  Ware,  who  visited  the  bay  in  1610. 

The  Lehigh  is  a  rapid  and  most  pic- 
turesque stream.  Its  course  is  from 
the  mountain  coal  districts,  through 
the  famous  passage  of  the  Lehigh  Wa- 
ter Grap  at  Hauch  Chunk,  to  the  Dela- 
ware at  Easton.  Its.  length  is  about  90 
miles. 

The  Schuylkill  flows  120  miles  fh>m 
the  coal  regions  north,  and  enters  the 
Delaware  five  miles  below  Philadelphia. 
We  shall  review  it  as  we  call  at  the 
towns  and  places  of  interest  upon  its 
banks. 

The  Alleghany  and  the  Monongahela 
Rivers— one  800  and  the  other  200 
miles  in  length — unite  at  Pittsburg  and 
form  the  Ohio.  The  Youghiogheny  is 
a  tributary  of  the  Monongaheltu 


PHILADELPHU  AND  TIOINITT.» 

This  great  city  is,  in  extent  and  pop- 
ulation, the  second  in  the  Union.  Its 
people'  number  about  half  a  million — ^as 
many  as  any  of  the  capitals  of  Europe 
(London  and  Paris  only  excepted)  can 
roow.  It  was  settled  in  1682  by  a  colony 
of  English  Quakers,  under  the  guidance 
of  WiU^am  Penn.  The  soubriquet  of  the 
City  of  Brotherly  Love,  which  it  now 
bears,  was  given  to  it  by  Penn  himself. 
No  striking  events  mark  its  history 
down  to  the  days  of  the  Revolution, 
and  its  part  in  that  great  drama  was 
more  peaceful  than  warlike.  The  first 
Congress  assembled  here,  and  subse- 
quent Congresses,  during  the  continu- 
ance of  the  war.  The  Declaration  of 
Independence  was  signed  and  issued 
here,  July  4th,  1'776.  The  Convention 
which  formed  the  Constitution  of  the 
Republic  assembled  here,  May,  1*787. 
Here  resided  the  first  President  of  the 
United  States,  and  here,  too,  Congress 
continued  to  meet  until  about  1797. 
The  city  was  in  possession  of  the  British 
troops  from  Sept.,  177*7,  to  June  11, 
1778,  a  result  of  the  unfortunate  battles 
of  Brandywine  and  Oermantown. 

Philadelphia  lies  between  the  Dela- 
ware and  Schuylkill  rivers,  six  miles 
above  their  junction,  and  nearly  100 
miles  (by  the  Delaware  River  and  Bay) 
from  the  Atlantic.  The  site  of  the  city 
is  so  low  and  level  that  it  does  not  make 
a  very  impressive  appearance  from  any 
approach.  But  the  elegance  and  sym- 
metry and  neatness  of  its  streets — ^the 
high  cultivation  of  aU  its  rural  comers, 
and  the  picturesque  character  of  the 
higher  suburban  land  to  the  northward, 
fully  compensate  for  this  want.  The 
most  thronged  portion  of  the  city  is 
near  the  apex  of  an  an^le  formed  by 
the  meeting  of  the  two  rivers,  between 
which  it  is  built.  Streets  extend  from 
river  to  river,  and  are  crossed  by  other 
streets  at  right  angles. 

Public      Squares.  —  Weuhington 


♦See  "New  Jersey"  for  rontes  to  New 
York,  and  "Dekware"  for  routes  to  Balti- 
more. 


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FBRKSTLYiJnA. 

Scenes  ud  PImm  In  PkOadelphl*. 


188 


f  '1  **»i^ 


*»W»^ 


Th*  Btato  Home,  or  Independence  Hall,  Philadelphia. 


^buof^  a  little  flonth'west  of  the  State 
fioiiM,  is  finely  ornamented  with  trees 
andcm^Ued  walks,  is  surroonded 
by  a  mudsome  iron  railing,  with  four 
prino^sal  entrances,  and  is  kept  in  ex- 
cellent order.  Jndependmee  Sguart,  in 
the  rear  of  the  State  House,  is  en- 
clooed'^tiy  a  solid  brick  wall,  ridng 
three  or  fbur  feet  above  the  adjacent 
Btreeis,  sanbounted  by  an  iron  railing. 
Tho  entire  area  is  laid  off  in  walks  and 
gtHvi-tlSbtiBy  shaded  with  nugestio  trees. 
It  ViaXttittiin  this  enclosure  that  the 
PecUtstion;  of  Independence  was  first 
prdQiu%ated,  and  at  the  present  day  it 
is  freqiuently  used  as  a  {dace  of  meeting 
forpolittcaland  other  purposes.  Frank- 
lin &iuanf  between  Race  and  Vine, 
and  oxth  and  Franklin  streets,  is  an  at- 
tractive promenade,  with  a  fountain  in 
its  oentre,  surrounded  by  a  marble 
basin;  it  is  embellished  with  a  great 
variety  of  trees.  Penn  Square  is  at 
the  intersection  of  Broad  and  Market 
streets,  now  divided  bito  four  parts 
by  outdng  Market  and  Broad  streets 
through  it;  Logan  Square  is  between 
Raca  and  Vine  streets ;  and  Bittenhoute 
Square,  between  Walnut  and  Locust 
streets. 

PiTBUO  BciLOiNOS. — The  State  House 
fronts  on  Chestnut  street,  and  including 
tiie  wings,  which  are  of  modem  con- 
atruction,  occupies  4iie  entire  Mock, 


extending  from  Fifth  to  Sixth  streets. 
In  a  room  in  this  buUding,  on  the  4th 
of  Jtdy,  1116,  the  Declaration  of  Inde- 
pendence  was  adopted  by  Congress, 
and  publicly  proclaimed  from  the  steps 
on  the  same  day.  The  room  present* 
now  the  same  appearance  it  did  on  that 
eventful  day,  in  fiimiture  and  interior 
decorations.  This  chamber  is  situated 
on  the  first  floor,  at  the  eastern  end  of 
the  original  building,  and  can  be  seen 
byviritors  on  application  to  the  person 
in  charge  of  the  State  House.  In  the 
Hall  of  Independence  is  a  wooden  sta> 
tue  of  Washington,  and  some  pictures. 
Visitors  may  overlook  the  city  and  its 
surroundings  admirably  from  the  cupola 
of  this  buUding. 

The  Oirard  CoUi^gelB  situated  on  the 
Ridge  Road,  in  a  north-west  direction 
from  the  city  proper,  about  two  miles 
from  the  State  House.  It  was  founded 
by  the  late  Stephen  Oirard,  a  native  of 
France,  who  died  in  1881,  and  be- 
queathed $2,000,000,  for  the  purpose  of 
erecting  suitable  buildings  for  the  edu- 
cation of  orphans. 

'^The  commanding  dte  of  the  edifice 
occupies  an  area  of  about  46  acres,  left 
for  the  purpose  by  the  founder  of  the  in- 
stitution. The  centnd,  or  college  build' 
mg,  is  218  feet  long,  160  broad,  and  97 
high,  and  is  a  very  noble  marble  struo- 
Uure  of  tbe  Corinthian  order.     The 


284 


FSDnffBYLTAMIA* 


Tk«  Olty  of  FUUdtlpUa. 


oiher  baUdingfl,  six  in  nvmber,  rar- 
round  the  mun  edifice. 

TIm  MtrtlUmU*  JKdsAoimn*,  iltiuited 
between  Dock,  Welnitt,  waA  Third  ita., 
is  of  white  marble.  It  ie  a  beaatifiil 
■tnibture,  end  of  ita  kind,  one  of  tlie 
flneet  in  the  oovntry. 

The  Vnittd  8Mm  Mint  ia  in  Ohea- 
nut  atreet,  below  Bond  street,  and  fironta 
on  the  former  atreet  122  lieet.  It  ia 
built  of  white  marble,  in  the  style  of 
a  Greoian  lonio  temfde,  and  oomnriaea 
aevend  diatinet  apartiinenta.  Ckdning  ia 
among  the  most  interesting  and  attrao- 
tire  of  processes,  to  those  who  haTO 
never  witnessed  sQoh  operations.  Yia- 
itora  are  admitted  during  the  morning 
of  each  day^  untU  one  oxlook,  on  ap* 
]dioation  to  the  proper  officers. 

The  Areadt  is  in  Chestnut,  bbtween 
^th  and  Seventh  streets,  and  extends 
through  to  Carpenter  street,  160  feet, 
fironting  100  on  Chesnut  street.  On  the 
ground  floor  are  two  aTenues,  extend- 
mg  the  entire  depth  of  the  buildins, 
with  rows  of  stores  fronting  on  each. 
The  second  floor,  which  is  reached  by 
flighta  of  marble  steps  at  each  end,  is 
Prided  into  stores  nmilar  to  those  on 
the  ground-floor.  The  ibivd  story  was 
origmally  prepared  for  Peale's  Museum, 
now  kept  in  the  Masonic  Hall  in  Chest- 
nut street. 

Tho  Chutom  Sbut€,  formerly  the 
United  (States  Bank,  is  located  in  Chest- 
nut street,  iMtween  Fourth  and  fifth 
atreets.  It  ia  a  ohaste  specimen  of  the 
Boric  orditi^  of  architecture,  after  the 
Parthenon  at  Athens,  with  the  omismon 
of  the  colonnades  at  the  sides.  It  was 
oommenced  in  1819,  and  completed  in 
about  five  years,  at  a  cost  of  half  a 
ndUion  of  doUars. 

The  United  States  Naioy  Fori  is  lo- 
cated in  Front  street,  below  Prince,  and 
contains  within  its  limits  about  12 
acres.  It  is  enclosed  on  three  sides  by 
a  high  and  substantial  brick  wall ;  the 
east  tdde  fronts  on  and  is  open  to  the 
Belaware  Urer.  Its  entrance  is  in 
Front  street.  The  Yard  contains  every 
preparation  necessary  for  building  ves- 
sels of  war,  and  has  marine  barracks, 
tdth  quarters  for  the  officers. 


Many  of  the  bank  ediflosa  of  Fhila* 
delphia  are  very  elegant,  and  impoa* 
tng,  built  of  marble  and  other  rich 
material 

The  OhnrolMi  of  the  city  are  about 
800  in  number,  of  all  denominationa, 
and  new  onea  are  continually  making 
their  appearance. 

The  CathoUe  Okmth  of  St.  Peter  and 
St.  Pout,  on  hoguk  Square,  ia  buUt  of 
red  stone,  in  the  Roman  atyle.  It  ia 
crowned  with  a  dome  210  fbet  Ugh. 

The  C^^weh  of  St.  MarVe  {miaw 
palX  ia  a  beantiM  edifice  of  light-red 
sand4itone,  with  a  tower  and  steeple  of 
admirable  mce. 

Oftrut**  C9bMreA,  with  ita  soaring  spire, 
is  a  very  interesting  object  in  its  an- 
cient and  quaint  aspect. 

The  Church  of  Calvary  (Presbyte- 
rian), and  the  Baptist  Church  in  BriMd 
and  New  streets,  are  also  of  sand-stoM^ 
with  imposing  towers  and  sfina.  Mb 
may  also  mention  among  the  churches 
of  the  greatest  architectural  interest : 
St.  Stephen^s  (Episcopal),  the  Catholio 
Church  of  the  Assumption,  St.  Jude^s, 
the  Presbyterian  Churches,  upon  Arch 
and  Eighteenth  streets,  and  upon  Arch 
and  Tenth  streets ;  the  Church  of  the 
Nativity,  the  Baptist  Churches  on  Cb^ 
nut  and  Fifth  streets.  In  the  tcwers  of 
St.  Peter*s,  St.  Stephen's,  and  of  Christ 
Church,  there  a  'e  oiimes  of  bells. 

The  American  Baptist  Publication 
Society  is  located  in  New  street;  the 
Presbyterian  Board  of  Publication  is  at 
266  Chesnut  street  Besides  they  re- 
ligious associations,  there  are  the  Juner* 
ican  Sunday  School  Union,  the  Penn- 
sylvania and  the  Philadeli^iia  Bible  So- 
cietioL  andthe  Female  and  the  Friends' 
Bible  Societies,  with  numerous  others. 

BuHivotiNT  IvtmnriONS. — ^The  coun- 
ijAhntkoutej  situated  on  the  west  eide  oi 
the  Schu^kill,  opposite  South  street,  is 
an  immense  structure,  consisting  of  four 
main  buildings,  covering  and  enclosing 
about  10  acres  of  ground^  and  frtmting 
on  the  Schuylkill  River.  The  site  is 
much  elevated  above  the  bank  of  the 
river,  and  commands  a  fine  view  of  the 
city  and  surrounding  country. — ^The 
Penn$ylvamia  Ho^pUai^  hi  Pine  street, 


# 


VMSSUYL'VAXlAk 


lU 


TiM  ottr  or  PhUnadpUiL 


ro- 


between  Eighth  and  Ninth  itreeta,  la  ui 
•duLribie  Uistltntion.  It  omtidne  u 
ftnatontf  eel  mnsevm,  end  •  Hbrary  of 
more  then  8,000  Tolmnei.  In  the  rear 
•f  the  lot  frontfaig  on  ^nuoe  itreet,  li 
•  imeD  bniltfng  which  eontilns  West*i 
eelebwted  plctm«  of  Oliriflt  HeeHng  the 
Bisky  presented  to  thia  inetitatlott  brite 
author.— The  United  Btatet  Marine  Mm- 
fital  or  Natal  Aa^um  h»»  a  handsome 
idtaation  on  the  eaet  bank  of  tlie  Schnvl* 
kill  below  South  itreet.  It  Is  for  the 
OM  of  inTdId  seamen,  and  offleers  dis* 
abled  in  the  eerrioe. — 7%ePenn^Avth 
nia  luttUuHonfor  the  Deaf  tmd  Jfvmb 
is  situated  on  the  comer  of  Broad  and 
I%ie  streets,  having  extensire  buildings 
adapted  for  the  purposes  of  the  estab- 
liflbment. — The  Fenntjflvania  IntHtu- 
tkmfor  the  Imtruetion  of  the  Blind  is 
rftuated  in  Race  street,  near  Schuylkill 
Tlfrd  street. 

'  'JM»  Soounrm.  The  Pennajfivdnia 
Aeadmjf  of  line  Arte,  an  old  and  moat 
imjitorfalat  institution,  has  a  fine  build* 
bigi  idth  a  noble  suite  of  galleries  upon 
OMSCnut  atreet,  between  Tenth  and 
IDetenth  atreets.  It  possesses  a  very 
TahiaMe  and  permanent  collection  of 
pletures,  and  makes  an  annual  exhibi- 
ndtt  of  new  worlu.     Among  its  old 

gjctures,  are  Weat'a  Death  on  the  Pale 
orse,  iand  Alston'a  Dead  Man  Restor- 
ed. No  citizen  or  stranger  should  ne> 
gledt  to  Ttrtt  these  nJleries. 

LmOUKT    AMD    SOISNTIFIO    IKSTITV- 

TtOMS.  The  Ameriean  PhUoeophieal 
Soeietjfirt*  founded  in  1748,  principallj 
through  the  exertions  of  Dr.  FrankHn; 
itshiS  is  rituated  in  South  Fifth  street, 
below  Ohestnut,  and  in  the  rear  of  the 
State  House.  In  addition  to  its  library 
of  15,000  volumes  of  valuable  works, 
the  society  has  a  fine  collection  of  mine- 
rals and  fosaUs,  ancient  relics,  and  other 
inte«eating  obiecta.  Strangera  are  ad- 
mitted to  the  hall  on  application  to  the 
librarian.— The  Philoaelphim  library  iB 
aituated  inllfih  street,  below  Ohestnut, 
on  the  north  comer  of  liberty  street. 
It  was  founded  in  1781  by  the  influence 
of  Dr.  Franklin.  Tfais  ioatitution,  to- 
gether  with  the  Loganian,  which  occu- 
^es  the  same  buikung,  possesses  about 


66,000  Tolumes.— The  Alhmmum,  fai 
^Hxth.  belpw  Wafanit  street,  containa  th« 

Seriodical  Joomals  of  the  day,  and  a 
brary  eonaisting  of  aeveral  thouaand 
v<duoiea.  The  rooms  are  open  everr 
day  and  evening  (Sundays  excepted) 
throuffhovt  the  year.  Strangera  are  ad* 
mitted  gratuitoualy  for  one  montli,'on 
introduction  \rf  a  member.— The  Fremk- 
tin  Inadtute  waa  Incorporated  In  1824 ; 
it  la  aituated  In  Seventh  atreet,  below 
Maricet  Its  member!  ar»  very  numer* 
oua,  oompoaed  of  mannfheturera,  artista, 
mechanica,  and  peraona  iHendlv  to  tho 
mechanic  arts.  The  annual  exhlbitl«ui 
of  thia  Inatitute  never  ftU  to  attract 
a  large  nttmber  of  viaitora.  It  has  a 
library  of  about  6,000  vdiumea,  and  an 
extenaive  reading  room,  where  moat  of 
the  periodicala  of  the  day  maybe  found. 
Strangera  are  admitted  to  the  rooma  on 
applidation  to  the  aotuarv.— The  Aeadt' 
rkff  of  Nahlrai  Btimete^  incorporated  in 
1817,  liaa  a  weD-aeleoted  Ublfkrjr  of  alnrat 
14,000  votumea,  beddea  an  extraatve 
collection  of  obiecta  In  natural  hiatory* 
Ita  aplendld  half  la  in  Broad  street  M- 
tweehOheatnut  and  Walnut  It  ia  open 
to  viritora  evetr  Saturday  afternoon. 
— The  MereanHie  lAhrarify  dtuated  on 
the  comer  of  fifth  and  llbnuy  atreets, 
wav  founded  in  1829,  for  tlie  purpose 
of  diffhaing  mercantile  knowwdf^.— 
Thei  Amaimtieei  JAbrary,  comer  of 
nfth  and  Arch  streets,  conrists  of  about 
14,000  v<^umes,  and  is  open  to  the 
youth  of  l>oth  aexea. — The  Hietorietd 
Society  of  Pennayhama,  in  fifth  street, 
below  Obestnut,  was  founded  for  the 
purpose  of  difltaring  a  knowledge  df 
local  history,  eipecially  in  rekition  to 
the  State  of  Pennsylvania^  It  has 
caused  to  befpubliahed  a  large  amount 
of  infoimttion  on  aultfecta  connected 
with  the  eariy  hiatory  m  the  State,  and 
ia  now  activeW  engMed  in  irimilar  pur> 
suits.— The  IHende^  ZUrary  In  Bace 
street,  below  fifth,  has  about  8,000 
volumes,  which  are  loaned,  ftee  <tf 
charge,  to  persons  who  come  suitably  re- 
commended.— There  are  aeveral^cd- 
lent  Hbraries  In  the  IMstricta  of  Thito* 
delphia,  which  are  conducted  on  the 
most  liberal  prindples. 


1«6 


WMSmWUfJUKIAt 


fktAJUf  «f  PkUaMj^da* 


Uwmajot  ImmvmuM.  TIm  Uttimrd^ 
cf  PtmuffhtH^  whlok  U  n^mknitM» 
inatitiitlM,  b  iitiMted  oa  the  wmI  ild« 
of  Ninth  ttraeti  bttw««ii  Ibikei  uA 
OhMtnat.  It  WM  fimo^ed  in  1791»  by 
th«  Qiiion  of  the,  old  VidTonily  Mid 
College  of  FhitoddphiiL><«Af ^NM  iM- 
t0«/  OoUtgt  hi  dtiwted  in  Ttath  etreet, 
below  Oheilnut ;  it  wei  ofijRteaUjr  eon- 
aeoted  with  the  ooUege  at  Canonebiliip, 
bat  it  is  now  en  Independent  iui^tntion. 
The  nnmberi  eCjpu^  ftTenges.  fbout 
SOOeanueUj.  Tne  enetoniicM  mufleum 
of  thie  inetftntion  ie  <^n  to  TiMtori.^-« 
Ptnnt^wuuaMkHeal  Oolltg$t  bk  Filbevt 
street,  above  BleTenth,  is  e  floaiiehing 
inatituUon  of  recent  origin;  the  first 
lectures  hsTing  been  ^dSV ered  in  the 
whiter  of  1889-40.— The  C<9<%w  <^ 
Phjfneimu  is  an  old  institution,  having 
existed  before  the  BeTolntitml  Jt  is 
one  of  the  principal  sources  from  which 
fvooeeds  the  Pharaiaoopceb  of  the 
United  States  The  M$dkal  ImtitvU, 
in  Locust  street,  above  Eleventh,  is 
where  the  elementarv  branches  of  med- 
ical adenee,  in  all  uieir  relations,  are 
taught.— The  PhiMtl^iia  ColUf*  </ 
Pharmaeih  in  Zane  atreek  above  Sev- 
enth, was  the  first  regularly  organised 
institution  of  its  hind  hi  we  comtry. 
Its  oljects  are  to  impart  appropriate 
instruction,  to  examine  drugs>  and  to 
eultivate  a  taste  for  the  sciei^ces. 

PniaoMS.  The  JBart0m  PemUtnHerv, 
in  the  northrwest  part  of  the  city,  is 
situated  onCSoates  street,  west  of  Broad 
street,  and  south  of  Girard  College.  It 
covers  about  10.  acres  of  ground,  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  wall  80  feet  high,  and  in 
arobitMture  resepUesmbaropiial  castle 
of  the  middle  ages.  It  is  constructed 
on  the  principle  of  strictly  s<^tary  con- 
finement in  separate  ceUs,  and  is  ad- 
mirably calcukted  for  the  securitv,  the 
health,  and,  so  fiv  as  consistent  witii  its 
objects,  the  comfort  of  its  occupants.—- 
The  Countjf  PrtMvsitnsted  on  Passy- 
nnk  Boad,  below  federal  street,,  is  a 
spacious  Gothic  building,  presenting  an 
impoong  appearance.  It  is  appropri- 
ated to  the ;  confinement  of  persons 
awaiting  trial,  or  those  who  are  sen- 
tenced for  short  periods.    The  Jkbtoi'* 


Primn^^  a^foining  the  above  on  the 
north,  if  constructed  of  red  sandstmie, 
in  a  style  of  massive  J^jptfam  arohi- 
teeture.'— The  ^oms  ^fSffiun  hi  at  tho 
comer  of  Coates.street  and  Bidge  roadb 
near  the  FonltentUury,  and  at  Bush  fflU 
Ui  the  iTeifas  ^  GvttMt^nm. 

Cmiannuna.  The  beanUfiil  cemetery 
iAUmniWU  is  situated  on  the  lUdgo 
road,  three  and  a  half  miles  north-west 
of  the  city,  and  on  the  east  bank  of  Uio 
Schuylkill,  which  is  devated  about  90 
feet  above  the  river.  It  contains  about 
ao  acres,  the  surfiuM  of  whiflh  is  undo- 
lathig,  prettily  diveiaified  hy  hill  and 
dale,  and  adorned  with  a  number  of 
beautiMi  trees.  Theirregnhufityoftbo 
nound,  tomther  with  the  fdiage, 
shrubs,  and  fragrant  flowers,  which  here 
abound— the  finely-scuptured  and  ap- 
propriate monuments— with  an  extfn- 
dve  and  diversified  view,  make  Um 
whole  scene  highly  hnpresrive.  On 
entering  the  gate,  the  first  ot^ject  thftt 
presents  itself  to  the  mse  of  the  viritor 
u an exceUentplece of  statuary,  repce- 
senting  Shr  Walter  Scott  convenmw 
with  Old  Mortality,  executed  fai  eanl. 
stone  by  the  celebrated  Thorn,  ^o 
chapel,  which  ip.  situated  on  high 
ground  to  the  ri^t  of  the  entrance,!* 
a  beaudfiil  Ck>thic  building,  illumjnaled 
by  an  immense  window  of  stahied  g|a>e* 
ifonMRSfU  Cimwtey,  another  beautifid 
endoeure.  is  situated  on  Broad  street,  in 
the  viofauty  of  Turner's  Lane,  in  the 
north  part  of  Philadelphia,  and  abcut 
three  miles  from  the  State  House.  It 
wsti  opened  in  1888,  and  now  contdns 
many  handsome  tombs.— JSonoMmi's 
CifNMftry,  in  Shippen  street,  betweeq 
Wnth  and  Tenth,  occupying  an  entire 
square,  and  surrounded  by  an  ircfn  rail- 
ii^(,  is  very  beautifiiL  It  fonperiy  be- 
longed to  Kr.  James  lUmaldsbn,  from 
iriiom  It  takes  its  name,  who  divk^d  it 
hito  lots,  and  disposed  of  it  Ibr  its  pres- 
ent purposes.  It  contains  a  kige 
number  of  splendid  timibs,  and  is 
adorned  with  a  great  variety  of  fiowera 
and  ffi^age,  whose  fragrance  and  beauty 
make  this  an  attractive  dthough  a 
moumfid  spot 

Plaobs  or  Amjssiaire.    The  Aca^ 


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tmjt^Mutte  or  Optra  Hmut^  on  Broad 
and  Loooft  itreetfl,  is  a  grand  wtabliih- 
ment,  with  a  front  of  140  feet,  and  a 
flank  of  286.  The  flnt  story  ia  or  brown 
stone,  and  th^  rest  of  BE***^  hiAck 
with  brown*alene  drassii^  The  Aa- 
ditorium  will  seat  8000  persons.  The 
WtUiwt  8tr»ei  Thtutre  is  at  the  oomer 
of  Walnut  and  IRnth  streets.  Ardi 
Btrtti  ZVo/iw  is  in  Aroh  street,  aboTe 
Sixth.  The  ifiMUia/  Ftrnd  H«U  )»  \a 
Locust  street,  between  Eighth  and 
Ninth  streets.  The  OUti  JAMtAm,  Oil- 
lowhiU,  below  FifUi ;  TFUoA't  National 
Circut^  Walnut  street,  above  Eighth; 
Ooneert  JfftM,  CSiestnut,  below  Thir- 
te«nth;  NatUmal  Batty  Market  street, 
bekiw  Thirteenth ;  Santom  atrett  Hatt, 
»8aMoiD,  abOTO  Sixth;  the  At$einbtjf 
JSuUding$,  Ohestnut  and  Tenth  streets. 

Boteu.  PUDadelphia  is  abundantly 
supplied  with  excdlent  hotels  of  aU 
grades.  Among  the  largest,  most 
sumptuous,  and  most  fkshionable  are, 
the  6Hrard  Houu,  on  Ohestnut  street, 
comer  of  Ninth  street  (the  '*  Broadway** 
of  the  city);  Jonea*  Hotel,  the  W^Mt^ 
ton  JS(oiM0,  the  8t.  Laimenee,  the  Amer- 
tMin,  the  United  Statea,  the  Jihrnklin, 
and  the  Markoe  Houtee,  all  also  upon 
Ohestnut  street;  the  Union,  and  the 
Aifdand,  on  Aroh  street;  La  Pierre. 
in  Broad  street,  and  the  Merehantr 
ifofe/jin  Fourth  street. 

The  Marketi  of  PhlUdelphia  are 
worthy  of  especial  notice,  in  their  great 
extent  and  admirable  appointment. 

OmnUntaee  to  all  parts  of  the  city  and 
suburbs  are  earily  to  be  found. 

The  Yicimitt  or  Philadblphia. 
Laurel  Rill,  and  other  cemeteries,  and 
the  Girard  College  we  have  already 
mentioned. 

Oamdan  is  upon  the  opposite  side  of 
the  Delaware,  in  New  Jersey.  It  is  the 
terminus  of  the  Camden  Rsilway  Route 
firom  New  York. 

The  FatmuKnit  Water  Works, 
which  supply  the  city  bountifully,  are  on 
the  east  bank  of  the  Schuykill,  about  two 
miles  in  a  northwest  cBreotion  from  the 
city,  occupying  an  area  of  80  acres,  a 
large  part  of  which  consists  of  the 
"mount,"  an  eminence  100  feet  above 


tide>wster  in  the  river  below,  and  aboat 
60  IbtVnbOTe  the  meet  elevated  gronnd 
hi  the  city.  The  top  Is  divided  faito 
four  leservoiis,  oapable  of  containfaig 
9i,000.000  mllons,  one  of  which  is  df 
vided  loto  three  eeotions  for  the  pur* 
pose  of  filtration.  The  whole  bp  sur^ 
rounded  by  a  beantUU  nravel-wa^. 
from  which  may  be  had  a  fine  view  of 
the  city.  This  reservoirs  contain  an 
area  of  over  rfx  aerae;  they  are  12  feet 
deep,  lined  with  stone  and  paved  with 
brick,  laid  in  a  bed  of  oby,  in  strong 
lime  cement,  and  made  water>tight.  The 

E>wer  neoessarv  for  forcing  the  water 
to  the  reservoirs  is  obtained  by  throw- 
ing  a  dam  across  the  Schuylkill ;  and 
by  means  of  wheels  moved  by  the  water, 
which  work  forcing  pumps,  the  water 
of  the  river  is  raised  to  the  reservoirs 
on  the  top  of  the  **  mount."  The  dam 
is  1,600  feet  long,  and  the  race  upwards 
of  400  liBOt  long  and  90  wide,  out  hi 
solid  rook.  The  mUl-house  is  of  stone, 
288  feet  long,  and  66  wide,  and  capable 
of  containing  eight  wheels,  and  eadi 
pump  will  raise  al)out  1,260,000  nllone 
m  24  hours. — ^The  ^rinr  Garden  Watei^ 
works  are  dtuated  on  uie  SohnylUDS,  a 
short  distance  above  Fslrmount. 

The  Falk  of  th«  Bdnnrlklll  are 
about  four  mfles  above  the  my,  on  the 
river  of  that  name,  ^ce  tiie  erection 
of  the  dam  at  Fdrmount,  the  fdls  have 
almost  disappeared.  From  the  city  to 
the  falls,  however,  is  a  very  pleasant 
drive ;  and  they  nujt^t  be  reached  in  a 
return  visit  to  the  WissaHiokon. 

The  SohvyllilU  Viedoot,  three  miles 
northwest  from  the  city,  is  980  feet  in 
lenzth,  and  crossed  by  the  Columbia 
Railroad.  It  leads  to  me  foot  of  an  in- 
clined  phme,  2,800  feet  Ions,  with  an 
ascent  of  187  feet.  The  phne  is  as- 
cended by  means  of  a  stationary  engine 
at  the  top,  which  conveys  the  cars  from 
one  end  of  the  phme  to  the  otiber.  It 
is  a  pleasant  and  cheap  excursion.     * 

WiewaWolrm  Oraek,  a  stream  re- 
markable for  its  romantic  and  beautiftd 
scenery;  iaOs  into  the  Schuylkill  about 
six  miles  above  the  city.  It  has  a  regu' 
lar  succession  of  cascades,  which  in  Uie 
aggregate^  amount  to  about  900  feet. 


188 


FJOf  MB  I LTAXIA* 


TlM  TMnltjr  of  PhlkdtlpUit. 


FalnnoQat  Water  Worki,  Phllad«Iphia. 


Its  banks,  for  the  most  part,  are  ele- 
Tated  and  precipitous,  covered  with  a 
dense  forest,  and  dlversifled  bj  moss- 
ooTered  rocks  of  CTery  rariety.  The 
banks  of  the  beautiful  Wissahickon 
afford  one  of  the  most  delightfyd  rides 
in  the  vicinity  of  Fhiladelpliia,  and  are 
a  great  resort  for  the  citizens,  picnic 
parties^  and  Sunday  schoohL 

VUamyvu^k^  eight  miles  from  the  city, 
has  become  a  laige  manufitoturing  place. 
It  is  indebted  for  its  existence  to  the 
water  created  by  the  improvemebt  of 
the  Schuylidll,  which  serves  the  double 
purpose  of  rendering  the  stream  navi> 
gable,  and  of  supplying  hydraulio  power 
to  the  numerous  ftctodes  of  the  village. 

O«niuuito«ii,  six  miles  north  of 
Fhiladelplda,  conusts  of  one  street  only, 
compactly  built,  and  extendbg  for 
about  four  miles,  in  a  direction  from 
south<«ast  to  north-west.  A  railroad 
and  numerous  stages  afford  a  constant 
communication  between  this  place  and 
the  city,  of  which  it  is  a  suburb.  Cars 
leave  the  depot  in  Philadelphia,  comer 
of  Ninth  and  Green  streets,  four  times 
daily.    Fair®  16  cents. 


Sals^'a  Point,  a  short  distance 
below  Oamden,  Oreenwieh  Point,  three 
miles  below  the  city,  and  Ghuet§t«r 
Point,  directly  opponte,  are  favorite 
places  of  resort  during  the  summer  sea 
son.  Steamboats  run  many  times  ddly 
from  Philadelphia.  Fare  to  the  former 
place  6  cents — to  the  latter,  9^  cents. 

BnmdywiiM  SpcingB.  Visitors  to 
this  celebrated  watering*plaoe  take  the 
cars  at  the  depot  in  Philadelphia,  corner 
of  Broad  and  Prime  streets,  (to  which 
omnibuses  run  from  the  office  fan  Li- 
brary street),  and  proceed  to  Wilming- 
ton, where  carriages  wiO  be  ready  to 
convey  them  to  the  Springs.  Fare 
through,  $1. 

OapeKbyi  an  attractive  pstering- 
pUoe,  and  now  much  fi«quenied  by  the 
citizens  of  Fliiladelphia,  and^by  others, 
is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  Delaware 
Bay,  the  extreme  southern  ponrtion  of 
New  Jersey.  The  accommodati<ms  here 
are  of  the  first  order,  and  the  beach  is 
unsurpassed  as  a  birfhing-place.  Dur- 
ing the  summer  season  steamboats 
leave  Philadelphia  for  Gape  May  daily. 
Fare,  $1— distance,  94  miles. 


FIUIJISILTAIIUL 


180 


PImm  of  tiM  iMdlBf  Ballmj. 


Valky  Foift,  the  memonble  bead* 
<nurt«n  of  Oemral  WaahliigtOB  during 
the  winter  of  1111^  is  2S  milcf  ttom 
Plilkdelpbia,  on  th«  nXiwj  to  Bcodinc. 
Pn.  The  old  hoad^quarten  is  itlu 
■tandlng  now  tlio  milrood,  from  whenoo 
It  oan  M  Mon. 

PottalowBi  SI  milM  from  FhUadot 
phia,  it  prottUj  dtoatcd  on  die  left  bank 
oftheSobnjlkilL  Tbe  booiea,  wbiob  are 
built  principally  vpon  one  broad  atreet, 
are  rarroonded  bj  line  gardens  and 
elegant  sbade  trees.  Tbe  scenerj  of 
the  somrandinff  bills  is  very  flne,  eepe- 
oially  in  tbe  Ua  of  tbe  year,  wben  tbe 
foliage  is  tinged  witb  a  Tariety  of  riob 
autumnal  tints.  The  Beading  Ridiroad 
passes  throu|di  one  of  its  streets,  and 
crosses  tbe  Jianatawny  on  a  lattice 
bridge^  1,071  fbet  in  length. 

BMdIaf,  50  mOes  from  Pbikdelphia 
by  railway,  is  a  pleasant  pbuie  for  a 
summer  home,  upon  the  bmiks  of  tbe 
Schuylkill  rirer. 

PortOUatOB  is  IS  miles  flt>m  Phila- 
delphia, on  tike  Reading  Ridiroad.  It 
Is  an  agreeable  phuse  at  tbe  mouth  of 
the  Littie  SohuylkilL 

flohnyUdUlxUTen  also  on  tbe  banks 


of  tbe  SobuTlkill,  bi  tbe  midst  of  a  Terr 
Intorestfaig  landsoape  region.  A  branch 
road  e<mies  in  here  from  the  great  coal 
distrlets.  From  Philadelphia,  89  mUea 
by  Reading  Railroad. 

Pottswillabthe  temdnnsof  tiie  Pbihk> 
delphia  and  Reading  route,  is  08  miles 
fli>m  PbOadelpbia.  It  is  upon  tbe  edge 
of  tbe  eoal  basin,  in  tbe  gap  by  which 
tbe  Schuylkill  comes  tiiraogb  Sharp's 
Mountain. 

AIliiito«%  61  milai  from  Philadel- 
^da,  is  iqwn  the  railroad  from  Baston, 
Pa.,  to  Maueb  Chunk.  It  is  built  upon 
high  ground,  near  tbe  Lehiffb  rirer,  at 
the  Junction  of  Jordan  and  Little  Le> 
high  creeks.  The  mineral  springs  here 
are  biffhly  prised  bj  those  who  bare 
tried  tiie  efficacy  of  their  waters.  A 
yisit  to  "Big  Rook,"  1,000  feet  bi  ele- 
Tiik>n,  a  short  distsAce  from  tbe  village, 
WW  amply  npay  the  tourist,  by  the  ex- 
tent and  richness  of  the  scene  there 
airead  out  before  him  in  eyery  direo* 
on. 

DotMohom  is  upon  the  Lehigh,  near 
61  miles  from  PhiUdelphia,  and  11 
from  Easton,  Pa.  May  be  reached  firom 
New  Tork  and  PhikdBlpUa  by  railway. 


Yalley  Foifs. 


100 


FSNMBTLTAIIIA. 


Phtlwlriphte  to  FltMmtg  by  fh»  rvaimjrhnadt  Bdlwsy. 


Sontes  to  Ruton,  and  thenoe  12  mites 
by  Lehigh  TaXey  Baihroad  to  Mauch 
C&unk.  It  is  tbo  principal  seat  of  the 
United  Brethren,  or  MoraTians,  in  tb* 
United  States,  and  was  originaQ:  settled 
under  Count  SBnsendorf^  m  If^'.l.  The 
Tillace  contidns  a  large  stone  church  of 
GotUc  architecture,  142  feet  long  and 
68  wide,  and  capable  of  seating  2,000 
persons.  From  the  centre  rises  a  tower, 
surmounted  by  an  elegant  dome. 

Nasaroth,  another  pretty  Moravian 
village,  is  situated  10  miles  north  firom 
BetUebem,  and  7  miles  northwest  from 
Easton. 

Manoli  Ohnak,  Pa.,  is  in  the  midst 
of  the  great  Pennsylvania  coal  regions, 
48  miles  from  Easton  by  railway,  and 
100  miles  from  Harrisburg,  tli^  State 
capital.  It  is  upon  the  Lehigh,  in  one 
of  its  wildest  and  most  romantic  gpw- 
sages.  Mount  Pisgah,  a  short  distance 
ndrth,  rises  1,000  feet  along  the  river. 
A  railway  has  been  constructed,  9  miles, 
to  Summit  Hill,  down  which  the  ccal- 
laden  cars  come  by  the  force  of  their 
own  gravity.  We  are  here  in  the 
vicinage  of  the  beautiful  scenery  of  the 
vidley  of  Wyoming  and  the  ^isque^ 
hanna  river,  which  we  shall  -neit  in 
another  chapter. 

PHILADELFHIA  TO  PmSBUBG  Ain> 
THE  WEST. 

BT  TBI   nunrSTLTAinA  BAILWAT. 

This  route  is  (ttfe  of  the  great  high- 
ways from  the  Atiantic  to  the  Mississippi 
States.  The  Pennsylvania  Central  Road, 
with  some  competing  links,  eitends 
{t63  miles,  from  the  city  of  Philadelphia 
through  the  entire  length  of  Pennsyl- 
vania to  the  Ohio  river  at  Pittsburg, 
connecting  there  with  routes  for  ul 
parts  of  the  South-west,  West,  and  the 
North-west.  Through  tridns  (18  hours 
to  Pittsburg)  run  mondng,  noon,  and 
night.  PhUadelphia  station,  southeast 
comer  of  Eleventh  and  Marltet  streets ; 
entrance  on  Eleventh  street. 

XianoutWi  a  city  of  more  thtm.  16,000 
inhabitants,  is  npion  the  Philadelphia 
and  Columbia  Railroad,  near  the  Cos- 
tenega  cre^ek.  It  was  at  one  time  the 
principal  inland  town  of  Fenhsylvania, 


and  was  the  seat  of  the  State  govern* 
ment  fit>m  1799  to  1812.  In  popdi^ 
tion  it  now  ranks  as  the  fourth  in  the 
Stete.  It  is  ptoMantly  rittaated  in  the 
centre  of  a  very  rich  agrieoltuiml  region, 
well  built,  and  has  many  fine  edmces, 
public  and  private.  It  is  the  seat  of 
Marshall  College,  organised  in  1808,  in 
union  with  the  old  establishment  of 
Franklin  College,  which  was  founded  in 
178*7.  Fulton  Hall,  an  edifice  for  the  use 
of  public  assemblies,  is  a  noteworthy 
structure  here,  as  are  some  of  the 
score  of  churches.  The  oldest  turn- 
pike road  in  the  United  States  ter- 
minates here,  62  miles  from  Philadd- 
phia.  One  of  the  sources  of  the  pros- 
perity of  Lancaster  is  the  navigation  of 
the  Costenega,  in  a  series  of  mne  locks 
and  slack  water  pools,  18  miles  in  length 
from  the  town  of  Safe  Harbor  in  the 
Susquehanna,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Cos- 
tenega. With  the  help  of  Tide-Water 
Canal  to  Port  Deposit,  a  navigable  com- 
munication is  opened  to  Baltimore. 

Whoatland,  the  seat  of  the  Hon. 
James  Bucluman,  the  present  President 
of  the  United  States,  is  at  Lancaster. 

BanfalMUf ,  the  capital  of  Pennsyl- 
vania, is  upon  the  east  bank  of  the  Sus- 
quehanna, 106  miles  fi>om  Philadelphia. 
From  the  dome  of  the  State  House,  a 
fine  view  is  obtained  of  the  wide  and 
winding  river,  its  beautiful  islands,  its 
interminable  bridges,  and  the  surround- 
ing ranges  of  the  Eittatinny  Mountains. 
The  Cumberland  Valley  road  diverges 
at  Harrisburg  for  Chambersburg,  a  flour- 
iddng  town  62  miles  distant,  on  the 
south-west,  and  the  Dauphin  and  Sus- 
quehanna Biulroad,  69  miles  to  Auburn, 
on  the  Philadelphia  and.Reading  Rul- 
road.  The  North  Central  Road  is  to 
Baltimore,  Md.,  86  miles :  the  Columbia 
Branch  to  Columbia. 

About  14  miles  beyond  Harrisburg, 
the  route  crosses  and  leaves  the  Sus- 
quelumna  river,  and  thenceforward  fol- 
lows the  banks  of  the  Juniata  for  about 
100  miles  to  the  eastern  base  of  the 
AUeghanies,  the  canal  keeping  the  road 
and  river  company  most  of  the  way — of 
the  Juniata  part  of  the  route  we  shall 
speak  directly, — sending  the  traveller 


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191 


Flttobvrg,  Pa. 


on  if  he  ii  in  haste,  to  nttsburg,  over 
the  AUeghudea,  by  the  help  of  the 
wonderflu  ipecimens  of  the  power  of 
the  engineer's  art,  wliioh  wiU  interest 
him  on  tlie  way :  ibo  tunnel,  8,618  feet 
long,  in  which  he  will  pass  through  the 
Alleghany  mountains,  3,200  feet  above 
the  sea ;  the  great  inclined  phmes  of 
the  Portage  Bimroad,  and  other  marvels 
of  art  and  of  nature. 

Fittaboii^  P«^  is  upon  the  OUo 
river,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Alleghany 
and  thelfonongahela.  It  is  situated  in 
a  cUstrict  extremely  rich  in  mineral 
wealth,  and  the  enterprise  of  the  peo* 
pie  has  been  cQreeted  to  the  develop- 
ment  of  its  resources,  with  an  wergj 
and  success  seldom  paralleled.  The 
city  of  Pittsburg  enjoys,  from  its  ritua* 
tion,  admirable  commercial  facilities, 
and  has  become  the  centre  of  an  exten- 
(dve  commerce  with  the  Western  States ; 
while  its  vicinity  to  inexhaustible  iron 
and  coal  mines,  has  raised  it  to  great 
distinction  as  a  manuflutturing  ]^ace. 
The  Monongahela  House  here  is  one 
of  the  finest  hotels  in  the  Union. 

The  city  was  tud  out  in  1765,  on  the 
rite  of  Fort  Du  Quesne,  subsequently 
changed  to  Fort  Pitt.  It  it  rituated  on 
a  triangular  point,  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Alleghany  and  MonongaLsla  rivers, 
which  here  form  the  Ohio.    Pittsburg 


is  connected  with  the  left  bank  of  the 
Monongahela  by  a  bridge  1,600  feet 
long,  iniich  was  erected  at  a  cost  of 
|i0a.000  doUafs.  Four  bridges  cross 
ihe  Alleghanv  river,  connecting  ntt»> 
bmrg  wi&  Alleghany  City. 

l%ere  are  se'iratal  plaoes  in  the  vicinity 
of  Pittsburg,^  which,  as  they  may  be 
conridered  parts  of  one  great,  manufiw* 
turing  and  commerdal  city,  are  entitled 
to  a  notice  here.  Alhahany  CUff^  op- 
porite  to  Pittsburg,  on  ue  other  ride  of 
(he  Alleghany  river,  is  the  most  im- 
portant of  them.  The  elegant  reriden- 
ces  of  many  persons  doing  buriness  in 
Pittsburg,  may  l>e  seen  here,  occupying 
commanding  rituations.  Here  is  loc»> 
cated  the  Wetttm  UuoUtgieal  Seminary 
of  the  Prttbykrian  dmrdi^  an  institu- 
tion founded  by  the  Qenerid  Assembly 
in  1886,  and  established  in  this  town 
in  188?.  boated  on  a  lofty,  insulated 
ridge  100  feet  above  the  AJleghany,  it 
affords  a  magnifleent  prospect.  The 
Theologieai  Smtnany  of  the  As$oeiated 
JU/ormed  &uireh,  estebHshed  in  1826, 
and  ibaAUtffhai^Thtoh^cetlAtstitfae, 
organised  in  1840  by  the  Synod  of  the 
Bttormed  Presbyterian  Church,  are  dso 
located  here.  The  Wettem  PenUtm^' 
tiary  is  an  immense  building  in  the  an- 
cient Norman  style,  situated  on  a  plain 
on  the  western  border  of  Alleghany 


i,:l  :    .£tt«S)«Wb.«U<.MIIIlA. 


102 


PKNNSTLTAinA. 


PitUborr-nM  JanUU  Rirmr. 


Oitj.  It  wu  completed  in  1827,  at  a 
OMt  of  $188,000.  The  UniUd  BtaUt 
Ar$»tuU  ifl  located  at  LawroneeTille,  a 
■mall  but  prettj  Tillage  two  and  a  half 
miles  above  Pittabnrg,  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  AUeghanj  liTer. 

Birmingham  ia  another  considerable 
snbnrb  of  Pittsburg,  lying  about  a  mile 
fVom  the  centre  of  the  city,  on  the 
south  side  of  the  Monongahela,  and 
connected  with  Pittsburg  by  a  bridge 
1,600  feet  long,  and  by  a  ferry.  It  has 
Impoitant  manufiMtories  of  ^bss  and 
irgn. 

Manehe$ter  Is  two  miles  below  FittS' 
burg,  on  the  Ohio.  The  XJ^B.  Marine 
Hospital  is  yet  below. 

It  is  usud  to  speak  of  eztenstye 
manufactories  as  tHBing  in  Pittsburg, 
though  they  are  not  within  the  limits 
of  the  city  proper,  but  are  distributed 
OTcr  a  cirde  of  fire  miles'  radius  firom 
the  court-house  on  Grant's  HilL  This 
space  includes  the  cities  of  Pittsburg 
and  Alleghany,  the  boroughs  of  Bir- 
mingham and  LawrencevQle,  and  a 
number  of  towns  and  villases,  the 
manufacturing  establishments  m.  which 


haTC  their  warehouses  in  Httsburg,  and 
may  consequently  be  deemed,  from  the 
close  connection  of  their  general  inter- 
ests  and  business  operations,  a  part  of 
the  city.  There  are  within  the  above 
compass  about  eighty  places  of  religious 
worship,  and  a  population  of  not  less 
than  100,000. 

The  stranger  In  Pittsburg  will  derive 
both  pleasure  and  instruction  by  a  visit 
to  some  of  its  great  manufacturing  es- 
tablishments, particularly  those  of  glass 
and  iron.  Ihiring  the  summer  season 
Pittsbuig  is  an  immense  thoroughfiure, 
large  numbers  of  travellers  and  emi- 
grants passing  through  it  on  their  way 
westward.  The  population  of  Pittsburg 
is  about  111,000. 

TIm  Jnainta.  This  beautiftd  river, 
whose  course  is  closely  followed  so 
many  miles  by  the  Pei^sylvania  By- 
road and  Canal,  rises  in  the  south  o«n- 
tral  part  of  the  Keystone  State,  and 
flowing  eastward  falls  into  the  Susque- 
hanna about  14  niles  above  Barrit- 
burg. 

The  landscape  of  the  Juniata  Is  in 


The  Jonlats. 


THE 
Wewi 


PXNIVBTLVAIIU. 


it' 


The  JoBiato— Th«  Goal  Baglon— The  Bntqaeluuuuk 


the  hi^heat  degree  piotureaque,  and 
muiy  romantic  lummer  haunts  will  be 
found,  by  and  by,  among  Its  vaUeys ; 
though  at  present  very  little  tarry  Is 
made  In  the  region,  from  its  attractions 
being  unknown,  and  the  comforts  of 
the  traveller  being  as  vet  unproTlded 
for.  The  mountain  background,  as  we 
look  continually  aoroi  s  the  river  firom 
the  cars,  is  often  strikingly  bold  and 
beautiful.  Our  picture  is  a  scene  in  the 
upper  part  of  the  river,  near  Water 
street,  a  point  which  the  railroad  leaves 
some  miles  to  the  south,  or  left.  The 
Little  Juniata,  which  with  the  Franks- 
town  branch  form  the  main  river,  is  a 
stream  of  wild  romantic  beauty.  The 
entire  length  of  the  Juniata,  as  well  as 
its  branches,  is  estimated  at  nearly  150 
miles,  and  its  entire  course  is  through 
a  region  of  mountains,  in  which  iron 
ore  is  abundant,  and  of  fertile  limestone 
valleys. 

THB  COAL  BEGION. 
iVom  Philadelphia. 

The  Philadelphia  and  Beading  BaU- 
wty  extends  98  miles  from  Philadelphia 
to  Pottsville,  in  the  heart  of  the  great 
Coal  regiont  of  the  State.  It  passes 
through  Valley  Forge,  Reading,  Auburn 
and  other  places,  for  which  see  Index. 

The  CotototMo,  Willutnuvort  and 
Erie  Bailway,  connects  Philadelphia 
with  the  Erie  Railway  at  Ehnira,  N.  T., 
and  by  other  routes  firom  that  point 
with  Niagara  Falls  and  all  the  lines 
from  New  Tork  to  the  great  West  and 
NorthweiA.  It  leads  to  the  coal  beds 
of  Pennsylvania  at  Catawissa  on  the 
Susquehanna,  and  thence  up  the  west 
branch -of  that  river  to  Williamsport. 
The  entire  passage  of  this  road  is  amidst 
natural  scenes  of  great  variety  and 
beauty. 

The  North  PMmsylvania  Railroad  ex- 
tends 88  miles,  to  Doylestown,  Pa. 

The  Belvidere,  Delaware  and  Flem- 
Ington  Railroad  extends,  via  Easton, 
Pa.  (60  miles),  to  Belviden),  64  miles. 

THE  SUSQUEHANNA  AND  ITS 
TICINAGB. 
We  will  now  look  at  the  chief  scenes 
9 


and  pUoes  of  interest  in  Pennsylvania, 
lying  upon  and  about  the  great  Susque* 
hanna  River  and  its  tributaries,  and  at 
the  railways,  canals  and  other  highways 
of  travel  which  communicate  with  and 
intersect  that  part  of  the  State.         a 

The  Susquehanna  is  the  greatest  of 
the  rivers  of  Pennsylvania,  traversing 
as  it  does  its  entire  breadth  from  north 
to  sobth,  and  in  ita  most  interesting 
and  most  important  regions.  It  lies 
about  midway  between  the  centre  and 
the  eaatem  boundary  of  the  State,  and 
flows  in  a  zig-zag  course,  now  south* 
east  and  now  south-west,  and  so  on 
over  and  over,  foUuwing  very  much  the 
windings  of  the  Delaware,  which  sepa- 
rates the  State  from  New  Jersey,  "nie 
Pennsylvania  Oanal  accompanies  it  In 
all  its  course,  from  Wyoming  on  the 
north  to  the  Chesapeake  Bay  on  the 
south.  AU  the  great  ndlroada  intersect 
or  approach  its  waters  at  some  point 
or  other,  and  the  richest  coal  lands  of 
the  State  lie  contiguous  to  the  borders, 

The  Susquehanna  in  its  main  branch 
rises  in  Otsego  Lake,  in  the  S.  E.  ceni* 
tral  part  of  New  Tork,  and  pursues  a 
very  tortuous  but  generally  south-west 
course.  This  main,  or  North,  or  East 
Branch,  as  it  is  severally  called,  when 
it  reaches  the  central  part  of  Pennsyl- 
vvania — after  a  journey  of  260  miles — 
is  joined  at  Northumberland  by  the 
West  Branch,  which  comes  in  200  miles 
firom  the  declivities  of  the  Alleghanies. 
The  course  of  this  arm  of  the  river  is 
nearly  eastward,  and,  as  with  the  North 
Branch,  through  a  country  abounding 
with  coal,  and  other  valuable  products. 
It  is  also  followed  by  a  canal,  for  more 
than  a  hundred  miles  up. 

The  route  of  the  New  York  and  Erie 
Railway  is  upon  of  qear  the  banks  of 
the  Susquehanna  in  southern  New  York, 
and  occasi<Hui]ly  across  the  Pennsyl- 
vania line,  for  -60  miles,  first  touching 
the  river  near  the  Cascade  Bridge, 
nearly  200  miles  from  New  York,  pass- 
ing the  cities  of  Binghamton  and 
Owego,  and  finally  losing  sight  of  it 
iust  beyond  Barton,  some  260  miles 
from  the  metropolis.  The  tourist  seek- 
ing the  picturesque  regions  of  the  river 


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VBSJSnXSYLYAKlL, 


The  8iuqn«liMui»— Valley  vi  WyomlnSi 


from  New  York,  may  take  the  Erie 
Route,  201  miles  to  >  (Great  Bend, 
and  thence  southward  by  the  Delaware, 
Lackawanna  and  Western  Road,  via 
Scranton,  and  stage  to  Wilkesbarre,  in 
t^f  Tailey  of  Wyoming.  This  railway 
continues  on  to  Lehigh  and  Easton 
(Delaware  Water  Gap)  and  Elisabetii- 
port,  back  to  New  TorK. 

The  Gatawissa,  Willialnsport  and  Erie 
Railway,  connects  Philadelphia  with 
Catawissa  in  a  beantiflil  part  of  the 
main  arm  of  the  Susquehanna  below 
the  Wyoming  region,  and  with  Wil- 
liamsport,  in  the  finest  part  of  the  West 
Branch,  continuing  on  through  Ehnira, 
N<  Y.,  to  the  Falls  of  Niagara.  From 
Philadelphia,  via  Port  Clintony  on  the 
Reading  Railroad,  to  Catawissa  146 
miles,  to  Williamsport  197  miles.  By 
this  route  passengers  may*  go  through 
from  Philadelphia  to  Buffalo  in  16  hours, 
to  Niagara  Falls  in  18  hours,  to  Detroit 
in  26  hours,  to  Chicago  in  86  hours,  to 
St.  Louis  in  48  hours.  Day  express 
from  Philadelphia  breakfasts  at  Port 
Clinton  and  dines  at  Williamsport. 

The  Great  Pennsylvania  Raiboad, 
•Hbl  Pittsburg  to  the  West,  follows  the 
Susquehanna  from  the  vicinity  of  Har- 
risburg  some  14  miles  up  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Juniata. 

The  Northern  Central  Road  from  Bal- 
timore, touches  the  Susquehanna  at 
Harrisburg,  85  miles  distant,  where  it 
connects  with  the  Pennsylvania  Rail- 
road for  Pittsburg. 

A  branch  road  from  Harrisburg  fol- 
lows the  river  down  28  miles  to  Co- 
lumbia. 

A  {feasant  route  from  Philadelphia 
or  New  York  to  the  Valley  of  Wyoming, 
is  by  riulway  from  either  city  to  Easton, 
near  the  Delaware  Water  Gap,'thence 
by  the  Lehigh  Valley  Road  to  the  coal 
re^ODS  at  Mauch  Chunk,  and  thence  to 
Wilkesbarre. 

The  entire  length  of  the  Susquehanna 
(or  Crooked  River)  is  about  600  miles, 
and  the  country  which  it  traverses  is 
of  every  aspect,  in  turn,  from  the  gen- 
tlest pastoral  air  to  the  wildest  humon 
of  the  stern  mountain  pass.  The  re- 
gion most  sought,  and  deservedly  so. 


by  the  tourist  in  quest  of  landscape 
beauties,  is  that  around  and  below  the 
Valley  of  Wyoming.  From  this  poi^t 
down  many  miles  to  Northumberland, 
where  the  West  Branch  oomes  in,  the 
scenery  is  everywhere  strikingly  fine  at 
brief  interval ;  but  the  best  and  bold- 
est mountain  passes  extend  from  five  to 
ten  miles  below  the  southern  outlet 
of  Wyoming ;  around  Nantiooke  and 
Shickshinney.  This  is  the  region  jtar 
exeeUenee  for  the  studyof  the  artist. 
Portions  also  of  the  West  Branch — 
though  not  yet  very  much  vidted — are 
remarkaMy  fine. 

The  vmUmy  of  Wyoudag  and 
Wilkesbume^— At  Wilkesbarre,  in  the 
heart  of  the  Wyoming  Vali3y,  there  is 
(near  the  rivisr }  a  most  excellent  hotel. 
The  village  is  beautifully  placed  upon  a 
plain  20  feet  above  the  river.  Prospect 
Rock,  three  miles  distant,  overlooks 
the  Valley  most  charmingly. 

*' Wyoming,**  says  Mr.  Minor,  in  a 
pleacant  history  of  this  vicinity, "  though 
now  generally  clewed  and  cjiltivated, 
yet  to  protect  the  soil  from  floods,  a 
fringe  of  trees  is  left  along  each  bank 
of  the  river — the  sycamore,  the  elm, 
and  more  especially  the  black  walnut- 
while  here  and  there,  scattered  through 
the  fields,  a  huge  shell-bark  yields  its 
summer  shade  to  the  tweary  laborers, 
and  its  autumn  fruit  to  the  black  or 
gray  squirrel  or  the  rival  plough-boys. 
Pure  streams  of  water  come  leaping 
from  the  mountuns,  imparting  health 
and  pleasure  in  their  course,  all  of  them 
abounding  with  the  delicious  trout.-— 
Along  these  brooks  and  in  the  swales 
scattered  through  the  uplands,  grow 
the  wild-plum  and  the  butternut ;  while, 
wherever  the  hand  of  the  white  man 
has  spared  it,  the  naUve  grape  may  be 
gathered  in  unlimited  proAvrion.** 

•  <«  Wyoming  is  a  classic  and  a  house- 
hold name.  At  our  earliest  intelligence 
it  takes  its  place  in  our  hearts  as  the 
label  of  a  treasured  packet  of  absorb- 
ing history  and  winning  romance.  It 
is  the  key  which  unlocl^  the  thrilling 

*  The  Author  in  Harper's  Magazine  for  Uo- 
tober,  1868,  voL  vii,  p.  61& 


jnOXKBYhYANlk, 


195 


The  Yallej  9f  Wyoming. 


landflcspe 
below  the 
this  poi^t 
mberUnd, 
nes  in,  the 
igly  fine  at 
and  bold- 
irom  five  to 
lera  outlet 
tiooke  and 
reg^  jsar 
the  arust. 
;  Branch— 
Hdted^-are 

niaf  and 

>arre,  In  the 
lay,  *^«re  ^ 
ellent  hotel, 
aced  upon  a 
r.  Prospect 
k,  oveilookB 

f. 

Minor,  in  a 
,ity,"  though 
d  cyltivated, 
pom  floods,  a 
ig  each  bank 
,re,  the  elm, 
Bick  walnut — 
ered  through 
rk  yields  its 
txy  laborers, 
ihe  black  or 
plough-boys. 
lOme  leaping 
ijrting  health 
le,  all  of  them 
ious  trout.— 
1  the  swales 
plands,  grow 
»mut;  while, 
)  white  man 
ipe  may  be 
forion." 
and  a  house- 
,t  intelligence 
hearts  as  the 
fot  of  absorb- 
romance.    It 
the  thrilUng 


recolleotions  of  seme  of  the  most  tragi- 
cal scenes  in  our  national  history,  and 
some  of  the  sweetest  imaginations  of 
.the  poet.  Every  fimoy  makes  a  Mecca 
of  Wyoming,    Thus  ^gs  Halleck— 

When  Wh  we*  In  tU  bnd  sad  bloaaomtng; 
And  weten  gashing  from  the  foontsln 
spring 
or  pnre  eathnslest  thonght,  dlmm'd  my 


Tonng  eyes, 
As  by  the  poet  borne  hn  unseen  wing, 
I  hrsethed  In  flmoy  *nefth  thy  doadless 


skiee, 

The  smnmer's  air,  and  heard  her  echoed  hat- 
monies.* 

"The  pen  of  Campbell  and  the  pencil 
of  TnmeiF  have  taken  thdr  loftiest  and 
most  unbridled  flights  in  prdse  of  Wy- 
oming, and  though  they  have  changed, 
^ey  have  not  flattered  its  beauties. 

*Vatan  bath  made  thee  lovelier  than  the 

power 
'  EtAi  ti  Campbell^  pen  hath  pietored.* 

**  Again,  Halleck  says  of  the  mythical 
Gertrude,  the  fair  Spirit  of  Wyoming, 
and  of  the  real  maidens  of  the  land — 

*Bnt  Gertrude,  In  her  lovellneas  and  bloom, 
Hath  many  a  model  here ;  for  voman's  eye 


In  eonrt  or  eottage,  whereso*er  her  hotna, 

Hath  a  heart-spell  too  holy  and  too' Ugh 
To  be  o'erpntis'd,  even  by  her  woiahlpper — 
Poesyr" 

The  terrible  Battle  of  Wyoming— 
which  has  been  so  often  the  theme  of 
the  peacil  and  the  pen,  occurred  on  Jidy 
8d,  1*778.  Few  of  the  ill-fated  people 
escaped.  Prisoners  were  grouped  around , 
large  stones,  and  were  muraered  with 
the  tomahawk,  amidst  yells  and  incan- 
tations of  fiendish  triumph.  One  of 
these  stones  of  inhuman  sacrifice  may 
yet  be  seen  in  the  Valley.  It  is  called 
Queen  Esther's  Rock,  and  lies  near  the 
old  river  bank,  some  three  miles  above 
Fort  Forty.  The  village  of  Wilkesbarre 
was  burned  at  this  time,  and  its  inhabi- 
tants were  killed  Or  taken  prisoners,  or 
scattered  in  the  surrounding  forests. 

The  dte  of  Fort  Forty  &  across  the 
river  firom  Wilkesbarre,  jMst  the  oppo- 
Ate  village  of  Kingston,  and  nearly 
west  of  Troy,  five  miles  and  a  half  dis- 
tant. At  this  spot,  where  the  slain 
were  buried,  there  now  stands  a  monu- 
ment commemorative  of  the  great  dis« 
aster.  It  is  an  obelisk  62^  feet  high, 
made  of  granite  blocks  hewn  in  tiie 


The  Bosqaehaaaa. 


f^' 


106 


PXMNBTLYAinA. 
Boenes  snd  PImm  on  fhe  Biuqiuhuiu  Birer. 


i;' 


I 


.-■    li 


m 


neighborhood.  The  names  of  those 
who  fell  and  of  those  who  were  in  the 
.  battle  and  survived,  are  engraved  upon 
marble  tablets  set  in  the  base  of  the 
monument.  This  pndseworthy  work 
was  done  by  the  isxertions  of  the  ladies 
of  Wyoming, 

Nantiook*  and  WMt  Nantlooke 
are  little  coal  villages,  at  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  Wyoming  Valley,  where 
as  we  have  already  intimated  occur 
some  of  the  boldest  passages  of  the 
scenery  of  the  Susquehanna.  This  point, 
as  others  upon  the  banks  of  the  river 
below,  must  be  reached  by  stage,  or  by 
the  slow  and  heavily  laden  canal  boats, 
for  nulways  do  not  yet  traverse  the 
way ;  and  neither  are  there  any  better 
accommodations  than  those  of  ordinary 
village  and  wayside  inns :,  at  least  not 
until  we  reach  Gatawissa  or  Northum- 
berland, where  the  West  Branch  comes 
in.  A  beautiful  view  of  Wyoming  is 
seen  looking  northward  from  the  hills 
on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  near  Nan- 
ticoke ;  and  the  scene  below,  from  the 
banks  of  the  river  and  the  canal,  are 
most  varied  and  delightfuL  The  coal 
nunes  of  this  neighborhood  may  easily 
be  penetrated,  and  with  ample  remuner* 
ation  for  the  venture. 

jMsap*!  is  a  very  cosy,  lone  inn, 
upon  the  west  shore,  two  or  three  miles 
below  Nanticoke,  from  whence  are  seen 
striking  pictures  of  the  river  and  its 
strong  mountain  banks  both  above  and 
below ;  Ihe  hills  in  all  this  vicinity  are 
impres^vely  bold  and  lofty,  making  the 
comparatively  narrow  channel  of  the 
river  seem  yet  narrower,  and  italieixing 
the  quiet  beauty  of  the  many  verdant 
islands  which  stud  the  waters  here. 

BMokshiimiiy  and  WapiwoUopaii, 
yet  below,  are  little  places,  still  in  the 
midst  of  a  rugged  hill  and  valley  coun- 
try. Back  of  Wapwollopen,  on  the 
east  shore,  is  the  barren  peak  of  its 
namesake  mountain,  and  the  wild  waters 
of  Wapwollopen  Creek. 

Oatawiasa  is  on  the  line  of  the 
railways  from  Philadelphia  for  Williams- 
port,  on  the  West  Branch,  and  thence 
to  Elmira  and  Niagara.  It  is  connected 
also  by  railway  with  the  coal  district 


of  Mauch  Ghunk.  The  scenery  of  this 
vichiity  is  of  great  variety  and  beauty. 
From  the  hm-tops— for  Gatawissa  U 
buried  between  picturesque  hills — ^re- 
markable i^otures  of  the  winding  of  the 
river,  and  its  ever-present  companion, 
the  canal,  are  to  be  seen — ^now  at  the 
base  of  grand  mural  precipices,  and, 
anon,  through  little  verdant  inter- 
vales. 

Northninherlaiul*— -The  west  branch 
of  the  Susquehanna  imites  here  with 
the  main,  or  north  arm,  and  the  village, 
the  pleasantest  of  all  the  region  round, 
is  built  upon  the  point  formed  by  the 
confluence  of  the  two  waters.  The 
quiet,  cultivated  air  of  Northumberland, 
and  its  excellent  hotel,  will  be  very 
likely  to  detain  the  not  over-hnnried 
traveller  awhile. 

Snnlnuy  is  a  prosperous  town  amoss 
the  river.  The  Sunbury  and  Erie  ^.R. 
connects  here  with  the  route  from 
Philadelphia  to  Williamsport  and  Elmi- 
ra, and  with  the  Philadelphia  and  $un- 
bury  route. 

WlUiamsport  is  the  principal  town 
upon  the  west  branch  of  the  Susque- 
hanna. It  is  a  pleasant  place,  delight- 
fully situated,  and  much  in  vogue  as  a 
summer  resort.  The  west  branch  of 
the  canal  passes  here;  and  here,  too, 
the  railway  routes  from  Philadelphia 
and  from  Niagara  Falls  meet.  The  town 
is  also  connected  with  Northumberland 
by  the  Sunbury  and  Erie  Bailroad,  via 
Gatawissa. 

Liverpool  is  a  lively  littie  town  upon 
the  Susquehanna  and  the  Pennsylvania 
Ganal,  below  Northumberland,  and  29 
miles  above  Harrisburg. 

The  Juniata  River  comes  into  the 
Susquehanna,  14  miles  above  Harris- 
burg. See  Juniata  in  "Pennsylvania 
R.  R.  route." 

Harrisburg,  the  capital  of  Pennsylva- 
nia.   See  "rennsylvania  R.  R.  route." 

OolumUa,  Pa.,  the  western  termi- 
nus of  the  Philadelphia  and  Golumbia 
R.  R.,  is  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Susque- 
hanna, 28  miles  below  Harrisburg,  and 
12  west  of  Lancaster.  A  part  of  the 
town  occupies  the  slope  of  a  hill,  which 
rises  gently  from  the  river,  and  the 


PEIfNSTLyAlIIA. 


197 


PImm  on  the  Buqaelumii*— The  DelAwan  Water  Chip. 


rof  tUs 
beautT. 

iin»— !«• 

igofthe 
apanioiif 
r  at  the 
168,  and, 
it  inter- 

stbrancli 
lere  with 
le  village, 
)a  round, 
d  by  the 
n.  The 
nberland, 
be  very 
sr-horried 

iwnawoBS 

Ene  4B« 
lUte  ^om 
uidEimi- 
.  and  dun> 

[cipal  town 
le  Sugque- 
e,  delighi- 
ogue  as  a 
branch  of 
here,  too, 
ladelphia 
The  town 
[umberland 
road,  via 

town  upon 
Innsylvonia 
id,  and  29 

into  the 
Lve  Harris- 
^nnsylvania 


business  part  of  the  town  lies  along  the 
level  bank  of  the  river.  The  scenery 
from  the  hills  in  the  vichiity  is  highly 
fdeadng.  The  broad  river,  studded 
with  numerous  islands  and  rocks, 
crossed  by  a  long  and  splendid  bridge, 
and  bounded  on  every  side  by  lofty 
hiUs,  makes  a  brilliant  display.  The 
junction  here  of  the  State  railroad  from 
Philadelphia  with  the  main  line  of  the 
canal,  the  railroad  to  York,  12  miles 
long,  and  the  Tide-watier  Canal  to  Mary- 
land, renders  Columbia  a  busy  place. 
The  main  current  of  travel,  which 
formerly  passed  through  here,  has  been 
diverted  by  the  construction  of  the 
Harrisburg  and  Lancaster  lUulroad; 
but  the  emigrant  travel  still  goes  by 
way  of  Columbia.  A.  fine  bridge  crosses 
the  Susquehanna,  more  than  a  mile  in 
length. 

YotIl  Pft.,  ia  ten  miles  south-west 
of  the  Susquehanna,  upon  the  Codorus 
Creek,  28  miles  S.  S.  E.  of  Harrisburg,  48 
miles  from  Baltimore,  and  92  from  Phila- 
delphia. With  all  these  cities,  and  with 
yet  other  points,  it  is  connected  by 
raUways.  The  Baltimore  and  Susque- 
hanna R.  R.  unites  at  York  with  the 
York  and  Cumberland,  and  with  the 
York  and  Wrightsville  Railroads.  The 
Continental  Congress  met  here  in  1777, 
during  the  occupation  of  Philadelphia 
by  the  British  troops. 

Port  Deposit  is  in  Maryland,  on 
the  east  bank  of  the  Susquehanna,  at 
the  lowest  falls,  and  five  miles  from  its 
entrance  into  the  Chesapeake  Bay. 
Fifty  millions  of  feet  of  lumber  are  an- 
nuaUy  floated  down  the  great  river,  and 
received  at  Port  Deposit.  There  are 
extensive  quarries  of  granite  in  the 
neighborhood. 

Havre  de  Chaee  is  at  the  head  of  the 
Chesapeake  Bay,  at  the  mouth  of.  the 
Susquehanna,  86  miles  northeast  of 
Baltimore.  It  is  upon  the  line  of  the 
railway  from  Philadelplua  to  Baltimore. 
.  See  that  route. 

Oarliale,  Pa.,  is  a  beautiful  and  in- 
teresting town,  with  a  population  of 
6.000,  on  the  line  of  the  Cumberland 
Valley  R.  R.,  18  miles  below  Harris- 
burg, and  125  miles  west  of  Philadel- 


phia. It  lies  in  the  limestone  valley 
country,  between  the  Kittatinny  ^|id  the 
South  MountiUns.  Dickinson  College 
(Methodist),  which  is  located  in  Car- 
usle,  is  one  of  the  most  venerable  and 
esteemed  institutions  in  Pennsylvania. 
It  was  founded  in  1788.  Carlisle  is 
connected  by  the  Cumberland  YalleT 
road  with  Harrisburg,  on  the  one  hand, 
and  with  Hagerstomi^  in  Maryland,  on 
the  other.  General  Washington's  head> 
quarters  were  here  in  1794,  at  the  time 
of  the  Whiskey  RebelUon.  Some  yean 
before,  Miuor  Andri  was  a  prisoner  of 
war  in  Carlisle. 


DBLAWABE  WATER  GAP,  PA. 

The  bold  passage  of  the  Delaware 
River,  called  the  Water  Gap,  is  easily 
and  speedily  accessible  from  the 
cities  and  vicinage  of  New  York  and 
Philadelphia,  and  a  pleasanter  excur- 
sion for  a  day  or  two  cannot  be 
well  made.  The  Delaware  River  rises 
on  the  western  declivity  of  the  Catskills^ 
in  two  streams,  which  meet  at  the  vil- 
lage of  Hancock,  a  station  on  the  New 
York  and  Erie  R.  R.  At  Port  Jervia 
(Erie  R.  R.),  after  journeying  70  miles, 
it  meets  the  Kittatinny  or  Shawangunk 
Mountain,  and  next  breaks  through  the 
bold  ridge  at  the  Water  Gap.  At  this 
great  pass  the  cliflb  rise  perpendicularly, 
from  1,000  to  1,200  feet,  and  the  river 
rushes  through  the  grand  gorge  in  mag- 
nificent style.  It  afterwards  crosses 
the  South  Mountain,  not  far  below 
Easton  (from  which  point  the  Gap  is 
generally  approached) ;  next  falls  over 
the  primitiviB  ledge  at  Trenton,  N.  J., 
grows  by-and-by  into  a  large  navigable 
river,  skirts  the  wharves  of  the  city  of 
Philadelphia,  and  is  lost,  100  miles  be- 
low, in  the  Delaware  Bay.  The  whole 
length  of  this  fine  river,  from  the  moun- 
tains to  the  bay,  is  300  miles. 

From  New  York,  take  the  New  Jersey 
Central  road  to  Eajston,  Pa.,  or  go  from 
Philadelphia  to  Easton,  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  Water  Gap,  and  thence  by  other 
railways.  From  Great  Bend  on  the 
Erie  Railway,  take  the  Delaware,  Lack- 
awanna, and  Western  Road  to  the  Wa- 
ter Gap. 


198 


ICABTLASD. 


TIm  Bute  of  Marjlaad— The  PotonuM  and  PatepMO  Btrm, 


C': 


MARYLAND. 

Thi  first  settlement  In  Marjland  wm  made  by  Leonard  Calrert,  brother  of 
Lord  Baltimore,  in  1684,  at  St.  Mary's.  It  was  one  of  the  earliest  of  the  colonies 
to  grant  entire  freedom  of  religious  faith ;  an  act  tolerating  all  creeds  and  sects 
having  been  passed  here  in  1689. 

Maryland  was  not  the  theatre  of  any  of  the  great  battles  of  the  ReTolatlon; 
but  some  important  scenes  of  the  war  of  1812  took  place  within  her  borders. 
The  territory  of  the  State  was  at  that  period  twice  invaded  by  the  British  troops. 
They  were  bravely  met  and  repulsed  at  the  battle  of  North  Point,  in  the  Ohesa* 
p^e  (see  Battle  of  North  Point),  Sept.  18, 1814. 

The  country  which  now  forms  the  State  of  Maryland,  was  granted  to  Lwd 
Baltimore  by  Gharles  L,  and  was  named  in  honor  of  Henrietta  Maria,  Queen  of 
that  monarch.  Maryland  is  one  of  the  most  northWm  of  the  slave-holding  States, 
and  the  most  southern  of  the  group  distinguished  as  the  Middle  States.  It  is  one 
of  the  original  thirteen. 

Much  of  the  comparatively  small  area  of  this  State  is  covered  by  the  waters 
of  the  Chesapeake  Bay,  which  extends  within  its  jurisdiction  120  miles  north- 
ward. The  country  upon  both  the  eastern  and  western  shores  of  the  Bay  is 
generally  level  and  fandy.  The  long  narrow  strip  which  extends  westward  is  a 
mountainous  region,  crossed  by  several  ridges  of  the  Alleghanies.  These  ranges, 
with  their  intervening  valleys,  afford  charming  landscape  passages  to  the  travel* 
ler,  on  the  route  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railway,  and  make  that  highway  one 
of  the  most  attractive  of  the  many  leading  from  the  eastern  cities  to  the  great 
west.  This  hill-region  of  Maryland  abouncU  in  rich  mineral  deposits.  The  coal 
lands,  though  not  very  great  in  area,  are  extremely  productive.  Copper  mines 
are  worked  in  Frederick  and  Carroll  Counties. 

Besides  the  culture  of  all  the  grains,  fruits,  vegetables,  and  other  products  of 
the  Northern  States,  Maryland  grows  large  quantities  of  tobacco.  The  State 
ranks,  in  the  production  of  this  staple,  as  third  in  the  Union,  and,  measuring  by 
population,  as  second. 


The  Potomao  Biwv  forms  the 
boundary  line  between  Maryland  and 
Virginia.  Along  its  passage  of  860 
miles,  from  the  mountains  to  the  Chesa- 
peake Bay,  there  is  much  beautiful  and 
Taried  scenery.  The  landscape  at  its  con- 
fluence with  the  Shenandoah,  near  Har- 
per's Ferry,  Yirginia,  has  long  been 
famous  among  the  chief  picturesque 
wonders  of  America.  (See  Harper's 
Ferry.)  The  Falls  of  the  Potomao, 
about  14  miles  above  Georgetown,  B.C., 
will  repay  a  visit.  The  principal  cas- 
cade is  between  80  and  40  feet  perpen- 
dicular pitch,  and  the  rocky  cliffs  on  the 
Yirginia  side  of  the  river  have  a  very 
imposing  air. 

<  The  Patapioo  Riv«r  flows,  80 
miles,  from  the  north  part  of  the  State 
to  the  Chesapeake  Bay,  which  it  enters 


after  paadng  Waterman,  and  14  miles 
below  that  city.  It  is  navigable  as  far 
as  Baltimore  for  large  merchant  ships. 
It  is  a  rapid  stream,  and  is  much  util- 
ized as  a  water-power.  The  Baltimore 
and  Ohio  Railway  is  built  along  its 
banks,  from  Elkridge  Landhig  to  the 
mouth  of  the  western  branch. 

Tfa«  Suaqnehaniia  Riwer  enters  the 
north-east  comer  of  the  State,  not  far 
from  its  debouehere  into  the  Chesa- 
peake. 

The  Elk,  Choptank,  Chester,  Nanti- 
coke  and  Pocomoke,  smaller  rivers,  are 
all  more  or  less  navigable. 

Baltimore  from  Philadelphia. 

By  Philadelphia,  Wihnington,  and 
Baltimore  Railway,  97  miles,  via  Wil- 
mington (Del.)  and  Havre  de  Grace 
(MdT),  or  by  the  Newcastie  and  French- 


rert.  brother  of 
It  of  the  colonies 
Breeds  and  sects 

theBeTolatlon; 
bin  her  borders, 
le  British  troops, 
nt,  in  the  Ohesa- 

Ented  to  Lmrd 
is,  Qneen  of 
re-holdiog  States, 
States.  It  is  one 

id  by  the  waters 
120  miles  north- 
ss  of  the  Baj  is 
is  westward  is  a 
8.  These  ranges, 
^8  to  the  travel- 
:hat  highway  one 
ties  to  the  great 
>osit8.  The  coal 
Copper  mines 

ther  products  of 
icco.  The  State 
id,  measuring  by 


m,  and  14  miles 

navigable  as  far 

merchant  ships. 

uad  is  much  util- 

The  Baltimore 

built   along  its 

Landing  to  the 

•ranch. 

Utw  enters  the 
le  State,  not  far 
nto  the   Chesa* 

Chester,  Nanti- 
naller  rivers,  are 
ble. 

hiltuklphia. 
Tilmingtou,    and 

mttes,  via  Wil- 
lavre  de  Grace 
stle  and  Freaoh* 


HAND  BOOK  OF  AMERICAN  TRAVEL 


Scale  of  Miles. 

0    10  20  30' 40   50 


100 


t 


LlM         ILX1 

0\Loa.K^ 


£tra»n<lJi:ng*  by  W.  mHua^lU- 


l.ony.Wert     a[Brimii^i5ii<itton  gf 


<  ■ried<ui.or{t:n^  lujir.i  ifConij"^;  'j;;i~   '.".ii    It    H' i/i//:i,iri.r  inTh4ntrks<}ifh:tofiht!/utriaCounofth»Eiisttm~VittrutafT>iuu)liiiawi 


lifi     l.iiiif.  VVi'Hl  N]r>rraiiii:iTniwiclt  <i[4 


SOUTH-WESTERN  STATES.   | 

^  HAND    BOOK  OF  AMERICAN    TRAVEL. 

Scale  ol'  Miles. 

U    10  30  30  4U  50  100 

III 


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Oi.Lnn.KastfivmWnali. 


//m»'t,f  A'/if"  i)  W  miiunvlt^^ 


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afCimfrus.vithry;.o.r2SU.h}  Wimiar'Ui   i^-tht  OarTtisOmca,  atth*7njmct  Onez,  of^iaStul^ii^Thjtruxtrfir* 


TO^Tifl 


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190  * 


TIm  City  of  BdtbBor*. 


town  route, 
ware. 


See   chapter   on  Dela- 


BALTDCOBB  AND  yiOINITT. 

^▲iTiMORB,  one  of  the  four  great 
Eastern  oHies,  with  a  population  of  over 
200,000,  is  impodngly  irituated  upon  the 
Patapeeo  Uver,  12  miles  firom  its  en- 
trance into  the  Chesapeake  Bay,  and 
about  200  miles,  by  these  waters,  from 
the  sea.  Built,  as  it  is,  upon  hill-slopes 
and  terraees,  its  appearance  is,  perhaps, 
more  picturesque  than  that  of  any  other 
city  in  the  Union.  As  seen  fit>m  the 
water,  the  climbing  streets,  crowned,  at 
last,  by  dome  and  spire;  and,  soaring 
yet,  above  all,  from  the  crest  of  the 
loftiest  eminence,  in  the  heart  of  all, 
the  tall  marble  column  of  the  Washing- 
ton Monument,  the  effect  is  exceedingly 
fine;  and  not  leas  so  the  look-down 
upon  the  city  and  the  surrounding  land- 
scape, from  the  summit  of  this  lofty 
pileio  proudlj[  placed. 

Hie  Wtuhington  Ifonvment,  chief 
among  the  structures  of  this  kind,  from 
which  Baltimore  has  won  the  name  of 
the  Monumental  Oity,  is  a  very  graceM 
work,  standing  upon  a  terrace  100  feet 
above  the  water,  in  an  open  area,  at 
the  intersection  of  Charles  and  Monu- 
ment streets.  Its  base  is  60  feet  square 
and  20  feet  high,  supporting  a  Doric 
shaft  1761  feet  in  height,  which  is  still 
sunnounted  by  a  coloBgid  statue  of 
Washington,  16  feet  high.  The  total 
elevation  is  thus  812^  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  river.  The  work  is  con- 
structed of  white  marble,  and  cost 
$200,000.  The  ascent  is  made  by  a 
wib<fing  stairway  within. 

■BatUe  Monument,  erected  to  the  mem- 
ory of  those  who  fell  defending  the 
dty  in  September,  1814,  is  at  the  comer 
of  Calvert  and  Fayette  streets.  The 
square  sub-base  on  which  the  pedestid 
or  column  rests,  rises  20  feet  from  the 
ground,  with  an  Egyptian  door  on  each 
front,  on  which  are  appropriate  inscrip- 
tions and  representations,  in  basso-re- 
lievo, of  some  of  the  incidents  of  the 
battle.  The  column  rises  18  feet  above 
the  base.  This,  which  is  of  marble,  in 
the  form  of  a  Soman  iGucis,  is  encircled 


by  bands,  on  which  are  insc|ribed,  in 
letters  of  ^Id,  the  names  of  those 
whose  patriotic  achievements  it  serves 
to  commemorate.  It  is  surmounted  by  a 
female  figure  in  marble,  emblematic  of 
the  City  of  Baltimore.  The  whole 
height  of  the  monument  is  02  feet. 
Armiitead  Momuneni,  near  the  City 
Fountain,  was  erected  to  the  memory 
of  Colonel  George  Armistead,  the  com- 
mander at  Fort  Henry,  in  1814,  through 
whose  hitrepidity  a  British  fleet  of  16  sail 
was  repulsed,  after  having  bombarded 
the  fort  for  24  hours.  It  consists  of 
a  base  and  pedestal,  with  tablets  flanked 
by  inverted  cannon,  upon  which  repose 
chdn-diot  and  shells.  It  is  exceedingly 
unique  in  design,  and  presents  an  admir- 
able specimen  of  sculpture.  Baltimore 
has  other  monuments,  but  they  are  of 
less  pretensions  than  those  above  de- 
scribed. 

FvBLio  BiriLDiKOS.  The  Hxehanffe 
in  Jay  street,  is  a  large  and  elegant 
structure,  with  a  facade  of  240  feet. 
The  building  has  colonnades  of  rix 
Ionic  columns  on  its  east  and  west  sides, 
the  shafts  of  which  are  sinele  blocks  of 
fine  Italian  marble  of  admirable  work- 
manship. The  whole  b  surmounted  by 
an  immense  dome,  the  apex  of  which 
is  116  feet  above  the  street.  The  Cfu9- 
torn  Eou$e  occupies  the  first  story  of 
the  south  wing  of  the  Exchange,  front- 
ing on  Lombsra  street. 

In  the  north-east  is  the  Merchants' 
Bank,  while  the  Botunda  is  used  for 
the  Oity  Post  Office.  Tha  Reading  Room 
is  a  fine  apartment  60  feet  square.  The 
Maryland  Inttitute,  on  Baltimore  street, 
has  a  frontage  of  866  feet.  The  first 
story  of  this  immense  building  is  oc- 
cupied as  a  market. 

The  aty  Hall,  on  Holliday  street,  ii 
a  plain  substantial  edifice,  tluree  stories 
high,  with  a  portico  and 'entablature 
supported  by  four  masrive  columns.  U 
is  used  by  the  city  council  and  other  ' 
municipal  offices.  The  Court  Souae,  a 
large  and  imposing  edifice,  on  Monu- 
ment Square  and  Lexington  street,  is 
appropriated  to  the  city  and  county 
courts,  and  the  offices  connected  with 
them.     It  is  ornamented  with  white 


900 


lUETLAHD. 


Hm  Ottj  of  BaUtniora. 


Mfldunlw''  Imtltatt,  Balttmon. 


marble  pilasters,  of  the  modem  lonio 
order,  and  surmounted  with  a  huge 
cupola.  Its  interior  annulments  render 
it  one  of  the  finest  court-houses  in  the 
United  States.  The  Alnuhoute^  about 
two  and  a  half  miles  from  the  centre  of 
the  city,  in  a  north-west  direction,  is 
a  noble  building.  The  State  Priaw^ 
on  the  comer  of  Madison  and  Forest 
•Greets. 

Calvert  Hall^  at  the  comer  of  Balti- 
more and  Calvert  streets,  contains  spa- 
cious lecture  and  exhibition  rooms.  The 
railroad  depot  is  an  extensiTe  and  admi- 
rable bufltVng. 

GBvacHis.  The  most  imposing  strac- 
ture  of  this  ckss  is  the  Oatholie  Cathe- 
dralf  comer  of  Oathedral  and  Mulberry 
Streets.  It  is  built  of  granite,  in  the 
form  of  a  cross,  and  is  190  feet  long, 
1*77  broad,  at  the  arms  of  the  cross,  and 
12*7  feet  high,  from  the  floor  to  the  top 
of  the  Cross  that  surmounts  the  dome. 
The  building  is  well  lighted  by  windows 
in  the  dome,  which  are  concealed  firom 
the  view  of  persons  below.  At  the  west 
end  rise  two  tall  towers,  crowned  with 
Saracenic  cupolas,  resembling  the  min- 
arets of  a  Mohammedan  mosque.  This 
church  has  the  largest  organ  in  the 
United  States,  having  6,000  pipes  and 
86  stops.  It  is  ornamented  with  two 
excellent  paintings—one,  "The  descent 


from  the  Oross,"  was  presented  by  Louii 
XYI;  the  other,  *«  St.  Louis  burying 
his  officers  and  solders  slain  b^re 
Tunis,**  was  presented  by  Charles  X.,  of 
France.  The  Unitarian  C^urek^  ai  the 
intersection  of  Korth  Chai^lcB  imd 
Franklin  streets,  ranks  next  to  the 
above  in  architectural  beap^.  this 
edifice  is  108  feet  long  and  78  wide. 
In  front  is  a  colonnade,  coni&|ting  of 
four  Tuscan  columns  and  two  jdlasters, 
which  form  the  arcades.  Above,  ex* 
tendng  around  the  pediment,  is  a  cornice 
decorated  with  emblematic  figures  and 
inscriptions.  From  the  portico,  the 
entrance  is  1^  bronze  doors,  in  imita- 
tion of  the  Vatican,  at  Bome — three 
conducting  to  the  body  of  the  building, 
and  two  to  the  galleries. 

The  Catholics,  who  are  a  numerous 
and  wealthy  part  of  the  community, 
have  various  other  elegant  chuirchem- 
fices,  among  which  may  be  mentioned, 
that  of  8t.  Alphonnu,  at  the  comer  of 
Saratoga  and  Parker  streets,  which  has 
a  spire  of  200  feet ;  and  that  of  St.  Vin- 
cent d$  Pa»d,  in  Front  street  Orae$ 
Chmreh,  Episcopal,  comer  of  Monument 
and  Park  streets,  is  a  superb  specimen 
of  the  Gothic  in  red  sandstone.  Close 
by  is  another  Episcopal  church,  also 
Gothic,  built  of  gray  sandstone.  S^, 
PmiP*  Ohitmh  (E^scopal),  at  tb6  comer 


.    ■     ■     '     "  -      :•    '-,?■) 


II 


BaMmoM  Md  Its  Ykliuge. 


201 


c/*Ob«riei  tad  Safmtogs  streeti,  is  a 
piMiingyxampIe  of  the  Grecian  style. 

TheVmtarUm  C^urek,  Charles  and 
FraidcUa  streets,  has  a  dome  of  W  feet 
in  diuueter,  which  is  supported  by  four 
arches,  each  of  88  feet  siMn.  The.Fir«f 
FretMtrim  Gkmreh^  Gothic,  Cathedral 
and  FnuikHn  streets,  is  also  worth  the 
wallc;  to  S99>  The  total  number  of 
churoti^ilt  9allimore  is  some  125. 

The  «|^  is  well  proTlded,  too,  with 
educattiKW,  bencTolent,  and  Uterarj  in* 
stitutMli  The  mivtnitjf  of  MairyUnA 
is  at  tli#  iatersectiidn  of  Green  and 
LomlMf^breets;  the  Wa^infftonMed' 
ieal  Cwfayy  is  vpon  Broadway;  tiie 
College  of  LojfoM  is  at  the  comer 
of  Ifedison  and  OalTcrt  streets.  The 
Athenamny  which  is  at  the  comer  of 
Saratoga  and  St.  Paul  streets,  is  oc- 
ou|ded  by  tho.  MereanHh  lAbniTy  Aato- 
dtmakiite  SaUimore  Library,  and  the 
Btait  mOorieal  Soeietjf.  It  is  in  the 
giJMtf  of  the  Historioal  Society  that 
rae  ItaKnoal  exhibitions  of  pictures  are 
held;  iRiO  St.  Mar^e  CcUtgt^  an  es- 
teemed Catholic  institution,  is  at  the 
coi'ner  of  Franklin  and  Green  streets. 
JSTKimml^t  JVm  School  is  under  the  coh- 
trol  of  the  Society  of  Friends.  The 
Marjftaiid  So^ital  for  the  Intane  oc- 
cupies an  eminence  m  the  western  part 
of  the  ciiy.  Mount  Mope  JSToMifa/, 
<$ohducted  by  the  Sister^  of  Charity,  is 
in  Madison  street.  Near  the  UniTcrsity, 
in  Lombard  street,  is  the  BaUiinore 
Infrinary,  also  under  the  control  of  the 
Sistiers  of  Charity.  In  the  westem  part 
of  the  city  is  the  Aged  Widowf  Homt^ 
a  new  and  elegant  edifice.  There  are 
also  two  Orphan  Asylums,  a  House  of 
Befitge,  and  Almshouses. 

YbMitres.  The  Holiday  etreet  is  In 
Holtdky  near  Fayette  street ;  the  Uroni 
etreii  theatre  and  circus  are  In  Old 
Town,  Front  street,  near  Jav ;  the  Mu- 
eeum  is  at  the  comer  of  Baltimore  and 
Calvert  struts;  the  OhaHee  etreet  thea- 
tre is  at  the  corner  of  Charles  and  Bal- 
timore street;  and  Carroll  Hall  is  at 
the  comer  of  Baltimore  and  Calyert 
streets. 

BoMi.  BammCt,  or  the  City 
Hotel,  corner  of  Fayette  and  Calvert 
9* 


streets;  the  JButmt^  Hotue^  eofner  of 
Baltimore  and  Butaw  streets ;  tla»  Fimit>- 
ttdn  Hotel,  Light,  near  Baltimore  street^ 
(a  vvnerable  and  ftrorite  establidi- 
ment),  are  amoi^  the  krgest  and  most 
fashionable  of  the  many  hotels  of  tiie 
city.  The  Gilmore  Bouse,  a  new  and 
elegant  hotel,  was  msened  in  1866. 
GHiMe  EmtwoemBm,  IM  Baltimore 
street;  and  the  HamrdHmmm,  Howard^ 
near  Baltimore  street 


hig  rand  spot,  about  a  inile  and  a  half 
from  Batue  Monument;  entrance  at 
the  loHition  dT  BeMdisre  street  and 
Torlt  Avenue^  The  gateway  Is  a  fine 
stone  strnotur^ ;  and  within  the  grounds 
is  aa  elegant  diapel  of  brown  stone. 

Baltimore  was  first  settled  in  1739| 
and  it  recelTed  its  name  in  1*740.  Its 
growth  has  been  rapid,  and  It  is  mf^iSsf 
increafling. 

Plaeee  and  Seeftee  nuar  BaUimen, 

Korth  Fointu  at  the  mouth  of  tht 
Patapsco,  was  tlie  scene  of  a  memo* 
rable  battle,  September  12th,  1814t  be> 
tween  the  Americans,  under  General 
Striker,  and  the  British,  under  General 
Boss,  in  which  the  former  were  defieat* 
ed,  and  the  latter  lost  three  c<nnmand> 
ers.  On  the  fbUowing  day,  September 
18th,  Fort  McHenry  was  bombttded  for 
^iWenty-four  hours,  by  rixteen  stos  and 
a  land  fbrce  of  1,200  mcii.  The  as- 
sailants were  repulsed,  and  tiie  fortress 
left  in  the  possession  of  its  defenders. 

This  enngement  at  North  Point  and 
Fort  McHenry,  is  duly  celebrated  in 
Baltimore  on  each  recurring  anniver* 
sary,  and  the  Battle  Monument  was 
erected  In  commemoration  thereof.     " 

mUooUHi  BHHIi  is  miles  from  Bal- 
timore, on  tiie  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Bait 
road,  is  an  ezceedin^y  picturesque 
little  place,  in  a  bold,  rocky  passage  df 
the  Patapsco.  (See  Baltimore  and  Ohio 
Bailway.) 

SbapM^  Fanry,  ▼«.,  and  Its  won- 
derful scenery,  may  earily  be  reached 
in  a  few  hours  by  railway  fh>m  Balti- 
more. 

The  ThoauM  IHadnot,  a  magnificent 
granite  structure,  880  foot  long  66  foet 


SOS 


]B4BTLAin>. 


Town*— Ok«Mq^Mk«  Bi^-^Mtna  Vbon. 


Ut^h,  with  rnsny  arches,  Is  nine  miles 
from  the  city,  cm  tiie  railway  to  Wash* 
ington,  where  itbranblies  off  from  the 
Butlmore  and  Ohio  road. 

Anii»pftH%  the  capitid  of  Mary- 
land, is  a  IriMe  of  the  greatest  inter* 
est,  from  its  antiqiuty,  and  its  many 
historical  assodations.  It  is  reached 
fifom  BalUmore  by  the  ndlway  from 
Washington  City  as  far  as  Annap- 
oUs  junction,  and  thence  21  miles  by 
the  AnnapoUs  sod  Elk  Bidge  Branch. 
The  citjr  is  upon  the  Sevem  RiTer,  two 
n^es  team  the  Ohesapeaice  Bay.  The 
State  House  is  an  interesting  edifice. 
Here  is  the  seat  of  St.  John's  College, 
founded  in  1784  by  the  GathoUos,  but 
at  present  supported  and  controlled  by 
the  Protestants.  At  Annapolis,' also,  is 
located  tho  United  States  Naval  Acade- 
Dty,  established  in  184S.  Aiknapolis 
was  founded  in  1649.  It  was  fltat  call- 
ed Providence,  next  Anne  Arundel 
Town,  and  lastly,  when  it  received^  a 
city  charter  in  1708,  AnnapoBs,  in 
honor  of  QueenAnne,  who  had  presented 
an  organ  to  one  of  its  churoheis,  and  be- 
stowed upon  it  other  acceptable  presents. 

Many  important  events  occurred  in 
Annapolis  during  the  period  of  the  Rer- 
oltttton;  and  here,  at  the  close  of  the 
eoolllct,  occurred  the  memorable  scene 
of  Washhigton's  resignation  of  his 
oommlsrion. 

Fradarioli^  one  of  the  largest  towns 
of  Muyland,  after  Bal^mom,  is  reach- 
ed from  that  city  by  the  Baltimore  and 
OUo  BailwAy,  69  miles  on  the  main 
trui|k  of  that  route  to  Monocaey,  and 
^ence  three  miles  by  a  branch  road. 
Frederick,  with  some  7,000  inhaUtants, 
is'the  ^1^  city  hi  the  State,  in:  popula- 
tion, and  In  wealth  and  commerehd  Im- 
portahce  ranks  as  the  second*  Some 
popidar  Gath<^  educational  establish- 
ments are  located  here. 

Hngftowii,  with  a  popvdstion  of 
about  4,000,  it  a  prosperous  place,  36 
miles  north-west  of  IVederick,  from 
wUch  it  may  be  easily  reached  by 
stage.  The  Oumberhuiid  Valley  RmI- 
way,  at  present  in  operation  fh>m  Har- 
rfabui^.  Pa.,  to  Ohambersburg,  is  to  be 
extended  to  this  point ;  also  the  West- 


minster branch  of  the  route  from  BaM* 
more  to  Hartisburg,  now  termim^^; 
at  Westminster.  V> 

Om^berlMMl  is  on  the  Potomeo 
Riyer,  the  Chesapeake  and  OhiOt.^!anal, 
and  the  line  of  the  BdtinuMre  and 
Ohio  Railway,  179  miles  from  Baltic 
more  city.  This  is  one  of  the  lai^gest 
and  most  prosperous  towns  in»  Mary- 
land. \tiiB  in  the  mountain  region 
of  the  narrow  strip  which  forms  the 
western  part  of  the  State.  For  an 
account  of  the  hmdscape  attractions 
hereabouts,  and  of  other  places  and 
objects  of  interest  in  Maryland,  see 
description  of  the  BaHimora  and  (ttiio 
Rwlway. 

THE  OHESAPEAKE  BAT. 

The  Chesapeake  is  the  great  highmiy 
from  Baltimore  to  the  sea.  it  liKthe 
hurgest  bay  in  the  United  States,  its 
length  being  about  200  miles,  wi^  a 
breadth  rarying  from  four  to  forty 
miles.  Its  depth  permits  the  passagi^  of 
the  largest  ships,  nearly  to  the  moD^ 
of  the  Susquehanna,  at  the  uj^r  ex- 
tremity. Its  shores  are  profuse^  in- 
dented with  arms  Or  estuaries  of  tiie 
oddest  shapes,  and  with  the  mouths  of 
tributary  rivers  and  creeks. 

Tho  I|Mt«m  Bhoro  of  MaxyUatA 
and  of  VIrginin.— The  waters  of  the 
Chesapeake  cut  off  a  large  portion  of 
Maryland,  and  lower  down  a  little  slice 
of  Virginia  on  the  east,  known  as  the 
Eastern  Shore  of  Maryhmd  and  of  Vh> 
ginia.  These  districts,  in  the  aside 
position  which  they  thus  occupy  out  of 
the  great  current  of  the  national  life, 
invite  the  traveller  b^  their  unique 
specialties  of  social  habit  and  character. 
As  railway  enterprise,  city  lot  mania, 
and  other  '* general  orders**  of  the  day, 
by  which  the  thought  and  manner  of 
the  country  is  dragooned  into  unlveml 
uniform,  and  hurried  along  at  forced 
maroh,  have  not  yet  entered  these  by- 
places  ;  there  may  still  be  found  in 
them,  intact,  the  feeling,  opinion,  and 
life  of  the  '*01d  Dominion  **  of  a  cen- 
tury ago-r.genuine  "first  fiunilies,**  with 
awral  ped^reeSjhung  up  in  the  weather- 


n 


fCk*  Ckmyrnhb—yrtUi  Fowl  Shoottag. 


SOS 


•taia«d  halla  of  uitedihiTlui  home»— 
BUuuHrfail  houiM,  with  big  doora  CTer 
open,  Mid  sarroondedwHh  lordly  aores, 
•ad*stteDded  br  retinoM  of  hereditary 
depe&detita,  wmoh  Ae  elsTe  popaktkm 
maintaini.  Here  li  yet  presenred  the 
tAA  exploded  idee,  thet  the  present  hour, 
•8  WW  ••  the  fiitare,  is  worth  the  oar- 
ing for,  and  nfe  is  oonridered  a  thing 

^to  be  ei^yed,  not  in  antidpation  alone, 

ihnt  as  it  passes,  day  by  day. 

Let  the  eare-wom  and  wearied  sUp 
into  one  of  the  uinoticed  way-steamers 
of  the  Great  Bay-^et  him  hnd  htdly 
at  ancient  Acoomac,  or  thereabouts, 
and  forget  a  little  while  the  wrinkling 
perplexities  of  cabinets  and  commerce, 
m  the  quiet  {deasnres  of  simple  domes- 
tio  life  withfai  doors,  and  the  genial 
recreations  to  which  he  win  be  bidden 
without. 

Wild  Fowl  of  Um  OlMMpoalDe.— 
These  waters,  with  their  tributary 
streams,  are  the  most  fiunous  resort  in 
the  IMt^  States,  for  every  species  of 
•qwitie  game.  Birds  of  idl  feathers  are 
drawn  luther  in  marvellous  numbers  by 
the  abundance  of  food  found  on  the 
great  flats  or  shoals  along  the  shores 
and  upon  the  river  inlets. 

**  Above  aromd  la  aameToiu  floeks  ure  seen. 
'LABg  liatft  of  daoks  o'er  .this  their  fkv'rite 
aoene." 

"There  is,"  says  Dr.  Lewis,  in  his 
American  Sportsman,  **no  place  in  our 
wide  extent  of  country,  where  wild- 
fowl shooting  is  followed  with  so  much 
ardor  as  on  the  Ohesapeake  Bay  and  its 
tributaries,  not  only  by  those  who  make 
a  comfortable  living  from  the  bunness, 
but  also  by  gentlemen,  who  resort  to 
these  waters  from  att  parts  of  the  ad- 
loining  States  to  participate  in  the  en- 
joyments of  this  fkr-famed  ducking 
ground.  All  species  of  wild-fowl  come 
ere  in  numbers  beyond  credence,  and 
it  is  really  necessaiy  for  a  stranger  to 
visit  the  region,  if  he  wishes  to  form  a 
just  idea  of  the  wonderftd  multitudes 
ind  numberless  varieties  of  duck»  that 
darken  these  waters,  and  hover  in  inter- 
minable flocks  over  these  famed  feed- 
faig-grounds.    It  is  not,  however,  the 


variety  <^  extraordinary  ntn|iben  of 
ducks  on  the  Ohesapeake  thhtl  partictt- 
lariy  attraota  the  steps  of  so  ihany 
shooters  to  these  parts,  as  there  are 
other  rivers  and  streams  equally  aocOs- 
rible  where  wildfowl  also  abound.  But 
the  great  magnet  that  makes  the  shores 
the  centre  w  attraotionu  is  the  pre*- 
enoe  of  the  fitf>fluned  Ounr^as-BAOX, 
that  here  alone  acquires  its  peeuHar 
delicaoy  of  flavor,  wnUe  feeding  upon 
the  shores  and  flato  of  these  waters.  It 
is  in  quest  of  these  noble  ducks  that  so 
many  repidr  annually  to  the  waters  of 
the  Chesapeake  and  its  numerous  tribu- 
taries,  regardless  of  the  myriads  of 
other  ducks  that  are  seen  around  on 
every  side.  The  diooter  taxes  all  his 
enerpes  for  the  destruction  of  this  One 
species  alone,  regarding  all  othwa 
with  contempt,  as  hardly  worthy  of 
powder  and  shot." 

**  The  canvass-baoks,"  says  Dr.  Sharp- 
less  of  FhiladelpUa,  in  a  paper  conteib- 
uted  to  Audubon's  Birds  of  Ametiea, 
**  pass  up  and  down  the  bay,  from  river 
to  river,  in  their  morning  and  eveidng 
flights,  giving,  at  certain  localities, 
neat  opportuniUes  for  destruetion. 
They  pursue,  even  in  their  short  pas- 
sages, very  much  the  order  of  their  mi- 
gratory movements,  flying  in  a  line  or 
baseless  triangle ;  and  when  the  wind 
blows  on  the  points  winch  may  lie  in 
their  course,  the  sportsman  has  great 
chance  of  success.  These  pointa  or 
courses  of  the  ducks  are  materially 
affected  by  the  winds;  for  they  avdd, 
if  posuble,  an  approach  to  the  shore ; 
but  when  a  strong  breeze  seta  tfiem  on 
to  these  projections  of  the  land,  they 
are  compelled  to  pass  within  shot,  and 
often  over  the  land  itselfl 

"  In  the  Susquehanna  and  Elk  riven 
there  are  few  of  these  pointa  for  shoot- 
ing, and  there  success  depends  on  ap- 
proaching them  while  on  their  feeding- 
grounds.  After  leaving  the  eastern 
point  at  the  mouth  of  the  Susquehanna 
and  Turkey  Point,  the  western  ride  of 
the  Elk  l^ver,  which  are  both  mode- 
rately good  for  flying  shooting,  the  finit 
place  of  much  celebrity  is  the  Narrows, 
between  Spesutio  Island  and  the  west- 


204 


lUSTLAXD. 


Wild  Fowl  of  the  OhiwptaiM   Yoy<y  down  tlio  Bky. 


;:'*- 


em  shore.  Those  Narrows  are  abont 
three  mUee  hi  lengthy  and  from  three  to 
lire  hundred  yafda  in  hieadth. 

'*By  the  middle  of  NoTember.  the 
canTaM-baolta,  in  partioaUr^  begin  to 
I'eed  in  this  passage,  and  the  entrance 
and  outlet,  as  well  as  many  intermediate 
spots,  become  rery  successful  stations. 
A  few  miles  down  the  western  shore  is 
Taylor's  IsUnd,  wldoh  is  situated  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Runmey  and  Abbey  Isl- 
and at  the  mouth  of  Bush  Biver,  which 
are  both  celebrated  for  ducks,  as  well 
as  for  swans  and  geese.  These  are  the 
most  northerly  points  where  large  fowl 
are  met  with,  and  projecting  out  be- 
tween  deep  cores,  where  immense  ^um- 
bers of  these  birds  feed,  they  poigsess 
great  advantages.  The  south  point  of 
Uush  Hirer,  Legoe's  Point,  and  Rob- 
bin's  and  Pickett's  Points,  near  Gun- 
powder River,  are  fruitfill  localities, 
immediately  at  the  mouth  of  this  river 
is  dtuated  Carroll's  Island,  which  has 
long  been  known  as  a  great  shooting 
ground,  and  is  in  the  rentage  of  a  com- 
pany at  a  high  rate.  Maxwell's  Point, 
as  well  as  some  others  up  other  rirers, 
and  eren  fhrther  down  the  bay,  are  good 
places,  but  less  celebrated  than  those 
mentioned.  Most  of  these  places  are 
lot  out  as  shooting-grounds  for  compa- 
nies and  indiridua&i  and  are  esteemed 
eo  raluable  that  intruders  are  sererely 
treated." 

A  newspaper  correspondent  of  the 
past  winter,  in  speaking  of  the  commer- 
cial riJue  of  the  aquatic  game  of  the 
Chesapeake,  says  that  at  Norfolk  (which 
is  the  great  depot  of  the  trade,  from 
whence  all  the  country,  &r  and  wide,  is 
fashed),  he  saw  at  one  house  no 
less  than  thirty-one  barrels,  the  pro- 
duct of  one  week's  dipoting  at  one  spot 
alone,  on  Lone  Island,  Bade  Bay. 

Dsagvni  off  th*  Sportr-^**  Notwith- 
standing Uie  apparent  fiudlities  that  are 
olTered  of  success,  the  amusement  of 
tlack-ebooting,"  says  Dr.  Sharpless, 
he^tofore  quoted,  "  is  probably  one  of 
the  most  exposing  to  cold  and  wet ; 
and  thqpe  who  undertake  its  ei^joyment 
without  a  courage  *  screwed  to  the 
Btiddng-point,'  wiU  soon  ^scorer  that 


'  to  one  good  a  thousand  ills  oppecsii 
It  is,  indeed,  no  parlor  sport ;  for,  after 
creeping  through  mud  and  inire,  often 
for  hundreds  of  yards,  to  be  at  ksi 
disappointed,  and  stand  exposed  on 
points  to  the  *pelUng  rain  or  more 
than  fk«eiing  cold,'  for  hours,  witheat 
eren  the  promise  m  a  shot— would  try 
the  patience  of  eren  Franklin's  *|^on« 
ous  nibble^.'  It  is,  howerer,  replete 
with  excitement  and  charm.  To  one., 
who  can  enter  on  the  pleasure  witb  a 
system  formed  for  poliur  cold,  and  a 
sidiit  to  endure  the  weary  toil  of  many 
a  stormy  day,  it  will  yield  a  harrest  m 
health  and  delight  that  the  roamer  of 
the  woods  can  rarely  enjoy.'* 

▼oyag*  Dovn  Am  OhMtmmlm^ 
From  Biatimore  to  Norfblk,  vbdnia, 
at  the  lower  extremity  of  the  Ohesa* 
peaks,  is  a  pleasant  journey.  Good 
steamers  make  it  daily.  It  is  a  <diami> 
ing  route,  also,  to  Blchn^ond,  tumiiw 
at  or  near  Norfolk,  into  the  month  Of 
the  James  River,  and  following  the 
many  devious  mfles  of  those  winding 
and  picturesque  waters. 

The  points  of  chief  interest  seen  in 
the  passage  of  the  Bay,  are  the  em- 
bouchure of  the  Patapsco  Biver  and 
the  battle-ground  of  North  Point,  new 
Baltimore,  and  referred  to  in  our  men« 
tion  of  that  city.  The  Bodkin,  threo 
miles  distant;  the  harbor  of  Annapolis, 
16  miles  still  below ;  and,  in  the  dis- 
tance, the  dome  of  the  venerable  ca{ri- 
tol  hi  which  **  Washington,  the  grMt 
and  good,  set  the  seal  to  his  sincerity, 
and  finished  the  edifice  of  his  glory,  by 
voluntarily  surrendering  his  conquering 
sword  to  the  civil  authority  of  hii 
country.  At  the  lower  end  of  the  bay 
are  the  famous  fortifications  of  CHd 
Pohit  Comfort  and  the  Rip  Rqts,  pro- 
tecting the  entrance  to  Hampton  Roads 
and  James  Rirer.  See  chapter  on  Vfav 
gfaiia  for  Norfddk  and  the  James  River. 


THB  BALTDIOBB  AlTD  OHIO  B.  B. 

In  extent,  commercial  importance, 
and  pictorial  attraction,  this  great  route 
is  one  oi  tiie  most  hnportant  and  inter- 
estfaig  in  America.    It  unites  the  dty. 


m^ 


M 


UAMTUJm, 


905 


TlM  BalttiiMi*  aad  OUo  Ballfnqr* 


of  Baltimor*  with  the  waters  and  TtUey 
of  the  OUo,  at  WheeUng,  807  milei 
away,  making  one  of  the  pleaiantcat 
and^4q>eecUe«t  of  the  great  highwaya 
from  the  Atfamtio  to  the  Himiflripiii 
States.  Its  wh<^  course  is  through  a 
region  of  the  hij^est  piotnresque  ^uie* 
tv  and  beauty,  and  it  is  itself  a  work  of 
the  litest  artistio  adiierement  in  the 
continual  and  extraordinary  display  of 
skill  which  the  dnndar  difficulties  of 
the  way  hare  called  forth.  It  claims, 
too^  especial  consideration,  and  reflects 
the  greatest  honor  upon  the  State  of 
Mamand  and  its  beautiful  metropolis 
of  Baltimore— «s  the  first  railway  in 
America  which  was  buUt  by  an  incorpo- 
rated oanpany,  and  with  the  assistance 
of  the  p<d>Iio  purse. 

The  conier-stone  of  the  road  was 
laid  at  tiie  Tery  early  period  in  the  his- 
tory  of  nulways  of  July  4,  1828,  and 
on  ^  80th  or  August,  1830,  the  first 
section  was  opened  by  steam-power,  14 
milesi  from  Baltimore  to  fiUicott's 
Milhk  The  trial  of  the  first  engine  was 
made  on  the  2Sth  of  August  of  that 
yeaiw  Oa  the  1st  of  June,  18S8,  the 
entire  route,  of  nearly  400  miles,  was 
completed,  and  on  the  10th  of  January 
a  formal  opening  of  the  road  was  made 
by  a  through  excursion,  with  great  pub- 
lic f^tcs  ahd  rejoicings. 

The  following  picturesque  description 
of  the  journey  to  the  West  by  this  no- 
ble highway,  is  from  the  pen  of  William 
,Preseott  Smith,  Esq.,  of  Baltimore.  Its 
graphic  interest  will  easily  excuse  its 
bngth. 

LttaTing  the  city,  we  cross  the 

Qarrcmton  Viaidiiot,  a  fine  bridge 
of  dressed  granite,  with  an  arch  of  80 
feet  span,  orer.  Gwynn's  FaUs;  after 
which,  the  road  soon  reaches  the  long 
and  deep  excavation  under  the  Wash- 
ington TumiMke,  which  is  carried  over 
the  raUroad  by  tiie  Jackson  Bridge. 
Less  than  a  mile  farther  the  "  deep  cut " 
la  encountered,  famous  for  its  difficul- 
ties in  the  early  history  of  the  road.  It 
is  seventy-six  feet  in  extreme  depth, 
and  nearly  half  a  mile  in  length,  and  the 
traces  of  the  slides  and  gidleyings  of 
twenty  odd  years  are  to  be  seen  upon 


its  fhrrowed  rides,  tinted  with  ivftrious 
ochrous  colors  of  the  richest  hue:  Be- 
yond thfai,  the  road  crosses  the  deep 
ravine  of  Robert's  Run,  and,  skirting 
the  ore  l>anks  of  the  eld  Baltimore  Iron 
Oompany,  now  covered  by  a  dense 
forest  of  cedar  trees,  comes  to  the  long 
and  deep  embankment  over  the  valley 
of  Gadsbv's  Run,  and  the  hei^vy  cut 
through  vinegar  Hill  imme^tely  fol- 
lowing it. 

Th*  Beibiy  Bowe,  eight  miles  from 
the  inner  station,  is  then  readied, 
where,  as  the  name  imports,  there  was 
a  change  of  horses  dunnx  the  period  in 
which  &ose  animals  funush^  the  mo- 
tive power  of  the  road. 

At  this  point  the  open  country  of 
sand  and  day  ends,  and  the  region  of 
rock  begins  at  the  entrance  to  the 
gorge  of  the  Patapsco  River.  In  enter- 
ing this  defile,  you  have  a  fine  view  of 
TOB  Thomaa  Vladnot  (named  after 
the  first  Prerident  of  the  Oompai^X  a 
noble  granite  structure  of  eight  eui^e 
arches,  each  of  about  rixty  chords 
spanning  the  stream  at  a  height  of 
sixty-six  feet  above  the  bed,  and  of  a 
total  length  of  some  seven  hundred  feet. 
This  bridge  belongs  to  the  Washingt<m 
Branch  Road,  which  departs  fi«m  the 
main  line  at  this  {dace.  The  pretty  vil- 
lage of  Elkridge  Landing  is  in  right,  and 
upon  the  surroitn^ng  heights  are  seen 
a  number  of  country  seats  belon^e  to 
men  of  buriness,  who  reride  here  dur> 
ing  the  summer,  tempted  by  the  beauty 
of  the  spot  and  the  fhdlities  of  access 
which  the  railroad  affbrds. 

The  road  now  pursues  its  devious 
course  up  the  river,  passhig  the  Avaloa 
Iron  Works  a  mile  l»eyond  the  Relay 
House,  and  coming  in  a  couple  of  miles 
farther,  to  the  Fttttersoa  ViadnoL 
a  fine  granite  bridge  of  two  archei  pf  , 
fifty-five,  and  two  of  twenty  feet  span. 
This  bridee  crosses  the  river  at  the  D- 
chester  Mill,  rituated  at  a  very  rugged 
part  of  the  ravine.  The  Thistie  Ck>tton 
Factory  appears  immediately  beyond, 
and  soon  after  Gray's  Cotton  Fac- 
tory, and  then  the  well-known  and 
flourishing  town  of  IDUoott'B  MUli, 
fourteen  miles  from  Baltimore,  covering 


900 


BomM  «Bd  Mum  M  «h«  BdttinoN  tad  Oblo  BftUinqr. 


the  bottom  tacl  dopes  of  th«  itoep  hlOs 
wHh  dweUngi,  and  tholr  tops  with 
ehttfohss  and  other  pabUo  s^BlIees.  The 
VIrederiok  Tnrnirfke  road  passes  tiirondi 
the  town  here,  and  is  oroJNed  bj  t&e 
railroad  upon  theipUwvr  Viadoet.  a 
handsome  stone  bridge  of  three  arOhes 
of  twent J  feet  Span.  Just  beyond  this 
bridge  is  the  Tarpeian  Boole,  a  bold  in- 
sulated mass  of  foranlte.  between  whioh 
and  the  body  of  the  cliff  the  railroad 
edges  its  way.  Half  a  mile  fbrther,  we 
see  the  extensiTe  buildlnn  of  the  Union 
CrOtton  Faotory  soattered  orer  the  op- 
posite hill  dde,  and  ftom  between  two 
of  the  mills  a  fine  cascade,  pouring  inces- 
santly down  from  the  race  into  the  rirer. 
The  road  next  comes  in  sight  of  the 
Elystille  Factory  buildings,  where  at  a 
drouitous  bend  it  crosses  the  rirer  upon 
a  "riaduct  of  three  timbef  arches,  each 
of  one  hundred  and  ten  feet  span,  and 
almost  immediately  reoroSses  it  upon 
one  of  two  arches  of  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  span.  Thence  it  follows  the 
windings  Of  the  stream  to  the  Forks, 
twenty-five  ndles  from  Baltimore,  where, 
by  a  deep  cut  through  a  narrow  neck, 
it  turns  the  western  branch  of  the  river, 
and  thus  crosses  its  former  channel 
twice  without  a  bridge.  Passing  the 
Harriottsrille  limestone  quarries,  the 
road  then  crosses  the  Fatapsco  by  an 
iron  bridge  fifty  feet  span,  and  dashes 
through  a  sharp  spur  of  the  hill  by  a. 
tunnel  four  hundred  feet  long  in  mica 
slate  rock,  which  forms  a  substantial 
roof  without  other  support.  For  a 
milei  or  two  beyond  this  the  road  runs 
along  pretty  meadow  lands,  but  soon 
re-enters  a  crooked  gorge,  which  it  fol- 
lows with  many  diveraons  of  the  stream 
fit>m  its  oriig^al  bed,  as  fiir  as  Syke- 
▼ille,  a  Tillsge  prettily  dtuated  at  an 
opening  in  tne  valley,  and  showing  a 
mill  and  cotton  fkctory.  This  point  is 
thirty  miles  from  Baltimore,  and  the 
road  after  leaving  it  encounters  some 
rough  outdng  through  points  of  hard 
rook,  after  which  it  again  emerges  upon 
a  comparatively  open  countnr,  and  afteir 
passing  one  or  two  rocky  hills  at  Hood's 
Mill,  it  leaves  the  granite  re^on  and 
enters  upon  the  gentle  slopes  of  the 


date  hills,  among  which  the  river  mean 
ders  until  we  reach  the  foot  of  ftia^ 
B|dffs^  dividing  the  waters  of  the  Fa- 
tapsco ft«m  those  of  the  Potomao.  The 
road  crossed  this  ridge  at  first  by  four 
inclined  planes,  (two  on  each  sMe  of 
the  ridge,)  intended  to  be  worked  by 
stationary  power,  whioh  was,  howevei% 
never  applied,  as  before  the  trftde  of 
the  road  would  have  iustified  Its  use,  a 
new  location  was  made  in  1888,  and  a 
grade  of  eighty-two  feet  per  mile  with  a 
cut  of  fifty  feet  at  the  summit  was  sub- 
sUtuted  for  the  planes,  the  steepest  of 
which  had  upon  it  an  inclination  of 
about  three  hundred  and  dxty  feet  per 
mile.  The  new  road  of  about  five  miles 
in  length,  crosses  the  ridge  north  of 
the  old,  and  is  but  little  longer. 

From  the  summit  of  the  ndge  at  the 
Mount  Airy  Station,  forty-four  adles 
from  Baltimore,  is  a  noble  view  west- 
ward across  the  Frederibktown  Valley, 
and  as  far  as  the  Gatoctin  Mountain, 
some  fifteen  miles  distant.  The  roaa 
thence  descends  the  i^ey  of  Bosh 
Creek,  a  stream  of  moderate  curves  and 
gentle  dopes,  with  a  few  exceptioiis, 
where  it  breaks  through  some  ranges 
of  trap  roclu,  which  interpose  them- 
selves among  the  soft^  shales.  The 
Monrovia  and  IjamsviUe  Stations  are 
passed  at  Bush  C&eek.  The  dates  ter- 
minate at  the  Monocacy  Biver,  and  the 
limestone  of  the  Fredericktown  Yaliey 
commences.  That  river  is  crossed  by  a 
bridge  of  "three  timber  spans  one  hun- 
dred and  ten  feet  each,  and  elevated 
about  forty  feet  above  its  bed.  At 
this  point,  fifty-seven  miles  from  Balti- 
more, the  Frederick  Branch,  of  three 
miles  in  length,  leaves  the  Main  Boad  and 
terminates  at  the  city  of  that  name,  the 
centre  of  one  of  the  most  fertile,  jm^u- 
lous  and  wealthy  sections  of  Maryland. 

From  the  Monocacy  to  the  Point  of 
Bocks,  the  road  havinar  escaped  from 
the  narrow  winding  vaSevs  to  which  it 
has  thus  fkr  been  counned,  bounds 
away  over  the  beantiftil  champaign 
country  lying  between  that  river  and 
the  Oatoctin  Mountain.  This  rolling 
region  of  rich  limestone  land  is  the 
garden  of  the  State,  and  contains  tho 


90Y 


rftermean 

Df  tb«  P«- 
M>iDM.  The 
nt  by  foar 
«h  ride  of 
wdrked  by 
a,  howerer, 
M  tiAdeof 
id  Its  use,  & 
1888,  «nd  ^ 
r  mile  with  ft 
ait  was  rab- 
steepeitof 
slimUon  of 
zty  feet  per 
at  five  iDilee 
■fi  north  of 
iger. 

ridge  ftt  the 
^•four  aiilee 
eTtewwest- 
owtt  VeUey, 
m  Monntkin.    • 
.    The  roM 
»y  of  Bodi 
e  cnrres  and 
exceptious, 
ome  nmgeg 
rpose  them- 
ibalee.    The 
Stationi  are 
B  (diites  ter- 
ver,  and  the 
town  Valley 
crossed  by  a 
ins  one  bun< 
nd  elevated 
iB  bed.    At 
I  from  Balti- 
ih,  of  three 
tin  Road  and 
it  name,  the 
iBrtile,ix)pu- 
Mar^nd. 
he  Point  of 
.  iped  from 
to  which  it 
ted,  bounds 
champaign 
river  and 
This  rolling 
land  is  the 
Bointains  the 


The  BaMnoN  aad  Ohio  Ballwa^. 

across  their  bed.    the  length]  of  the 
bridge  is  about  nine  hundred  leet,  and 


i 


oslebrated  OarrolUon  Manor.  The  line 
finr  vpirards  of  eleven  miles  consists  of 
loQg  straight  stretches  and  fine  sweeping 
emwes,  aiMi  Ues  near  the  gently  rolling 
sprface  of  the  ground  with  little  eutting 
or  filUn^.  On  approaohing  the  Point  of 
Bocks,  it  passes  bv  a  cut  of  some  ex* 
tent  through  the  ridge  of  breoda  mar* 
ble,  fh>m  which  the  beautifhl  material 
of  the  columns  |n  the  Senate  Chamber 
and  Hall  of  RepresentaUves  of  the  Cap> 
itol  at  Washhigton  was  obtained. 

The  Point  of  Booha,  celebrated  in 
tile  contest  between  the  Raihroad  and 
Canal  Companies,  is  formed  by  the  bold 
profileof  the  Catootin  Moimtain,  against 
the  base  of  which  the  Potomac  River 
runs  on  the  Maryland  side,  the  moun- 
tain  towering  up  on  the  opposite,  Vir- 
ginia, diore,  forming  the  other  barrier 
of  the  pess.  Here,  sizty-nine  miles 
from  BalUmore  and  forty-eight  from 
Washington,  the  Canal  and  Ridlroad 
first  came  ride  by  ride,  and  a  village 
hiks  arisen.  There  is  also  a  bridge  over 
the  river,  which  is  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  wide.  The  Raihroad  turns  the 
promontory  by  an  abrupt  curve,  and  is 
partly  cut  out  of  the  rooky  precipice  on 
the  light,  and  partly  supported  on  the 
inner  ride  of  the  Canel  on  the  left  by  a 
stone  wall  of  conriderable  length.  Two 
miles  flirther  another  cliff  occurs,  ac- 
companied by  more  excavation  and 
wdBng.  From  hence  the  ground  be- 
comes compMratively  smootl^  and  the 
Railroad,  leaving  the  immediate  margin 
of  the  river  to  the  Canal,  runs  along 
the  Iwse  of  the  gently  doling  hills, 
pasring  the  viUages  of  Beriin  and 
Knox'rille,  Imd  reaching  the  Weverton 
Factories  in  the  pass  of  the  South 
Mountain. 

From  this  pdnt  to  Ebapac*s  Fanyi 
the  road  lies  along  the  foot  of  a  pred- 
I^ce  for  the  greater  part  of  the  distance 
of  three  miles,  the  last  of  which  is  im- 
mediately under  the  lofty  clifb  of  I^ 
Mountidn,  forming  the  north  ride  of 
this  noted  pass.  The  ShMinndonh 
Biwer  enters  the  Potomac  immediately 
below  the  bridge  over  the  latter,  and 
their  united  currents  rush  rapidly  over 
the  broad  ledges  of  rock  which  stretch 


at  its  western  end  it  divides  into  two^ 
the  left  hand  branch  connecting  witii 
the  Winchester  end  Potomac  BaUroad, 
which  passes  directly  up  the  Bhenan* 
doah,  and  the  right  nand  carrying  the 
Main  Road,  by  a  strong  carve  in  that 
direoUon,  up  the  Potomae.  Th^  ji>ridge 
consists  of  riz  arches  of  one  hundred 
and  thirty  and  one  arch  of  about  seven- 
ty-five feet  span  over  the  river,  and  an 
arch  of  about  one  hundred  feet  spaa 
over  the  canal ;  all  of  which  are  of  um- 
ber and  iron  and  covered  La,  except 
the  western  arch  connected  with  the 
Winchester  and  Potomac  Railroad, 
which  is  entirely  of  iron,  exceptingjthe 
floor.  This  viaduct  is  not  so  remarii- 
able  for  its  length  as  for  its  peculiar 
structure,  the  two  ends  of  it  being 
curved  in  opporite  directions,  and  m- 
lEVircated  at  the  western  extiemity.— 
Harper's  Ferry  and  all  its  fine  points  of 
scenery  are  too  well  known  to  need  de- 
scription here.  The  preciintous  moun- 
tains ^wluch  rise  from  the  water's  edge 
leave*  little  level  ground  on  the  river 
margin,  and  all  of  that  is  ocoupied  by 
the  United  States  Armoir  bimdings. 
Hence  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad 
has  been  obliged  to  build  itself  a  road 
in  the  river  bed  for  ibwards  of  half  a 
mile,  along  the  outer  boundary  of  the 
Oovemment  works,  upon  a  trestle  worik 
resting  On  the  ride  next  the  river,  upon 
an  insulated  wall  of  masonry,  and  upon 
the  other  side  upon  square  stone  cot 
umns  placed  upon  ^e  retaining  wall  of 
the  Armory  grounds.  After  passing 
the  uppermost  building,  the  road  runs 
along  upon  the  outer  bank  of  the  canal 
which  brings  the  water  of  the  river  to 
the  works,  and  soon  crosses  this  canal 
by  a  stone  and  timber  bridge  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet  span,  nience  the 
road  passes  up  the  river  on  the  inner 
ride  of  the  canal,  and  opposite  the  dam 
at  its  head,  about  one  and  three^uar- 
ters  of  a  mile  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Shenandoah,  pierces  a  i»(^ecting  rock 
by  a  tunnel  or  gallery  of  eighty  feet  in 
length, 
ilie  view  down  the  river  through  thie 


808 


HMOMN  Md  (Hdo  Bdlinqr. 


pcr^Bntion  Is  lingtdMly  plotar«M|iie, 
•ad  praaenta  t)M  paai  (hwragh  tha  mooii* 
tain  aA  the  eonfloeno*  of  the  ilTen  In 
one  of  Ite  meet  remarkable  aipeota,  A 
ihort  distance  abore  the  tonael,  where 
the  rirer  sweeiw  sradually  round  to  the 
eestward  In  the  oroad  smooth  sheet  of 
water  created  by  the  dam,  the  railroad 
learesthe  Potomac  and  passes  up  the 
ravine  of  BOk  Bwnohi  which  presents 
itself  at  this  point  In  a  &TOrabie  direo* 
tion.  This  rsTlne,  at  first  nurrow  and 
serpentine,  becomes  wider  and  more 
dinoi  until  It  almost  loses  Itself  in  the 
rriUng  table  land  which  characterises 
the  "Valley  of  yirginia.**  The  head  of 
ffik  Branch  is  reached  in  about  nine 
mfl^  and  thence  the  Une  desoends 
gradually  orer  an  undulating  oham* 
pugne  country,  to  the  croasbg  of  the 
^'Opequa"  Creek,  which  it  passes  by  a 
stone  and  timber  Tiadoot  of  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet  span  and  forty  liMt 
aboTO  the  water  surface.  Beyond  the 
orossiiw  the  road  enters  the  open  ral- 
ley  of  Tusoarora  Creek,  which  it  crosses 
twice  and  pursues  to  the  town  of  Mar- 
tin(rt»urg,  eifAiteen  miles  trom  Harper's 
Ferry.  At  Ifartlnsburg  the  Tuscarora 
Is  apUn  bridged  twlM,  the  crossing 
east  of  the  town  being  made  upon  a 
tiaduct  of  ten  spans  of  forty-four  feet 
each,  of  timber  and  Iron,  supported  by 
two  abutments  and  dghteen  stone  col- 
iVnns  In  the  Doric  style,  and  which 
Imtc  a  rery  agreeable  architectural 
eflbct.  The  Company  haTC  erected 
here  large  engine  houses  and  work- 
shops, and  haTo  made  it  one  of  their 
prindpal  stations  for  the  shelter  and 
repidr  of  thdr  machinery,  a  measure 
that  has  greatiy  promoted  the  prosper- 
ity of  the  town,  which  like  many  of  the 
old  Vir^nla  TiUages  had  previously 
been  in  a  stsgnant  state  for  an  ahnost 
immemorial  period. 

Westward  flrom  Martinsburg  the  route 
for  eight  ndlea  continues  its  course  orer 
the  open  country,  alternately  ascending 
and  descending  until  it  strikes  the  foot 
of  the  North  Monntidn,  and  crossiiu;  it 
by  a  long  ezoavation,  sixty-three  uet 
deep,  In  slate  rock,  through  a  depres- 
rion  tiierein,  passes  out  of  the  Valley, 


having  traTcrsed  Its  entire  breadth 
wpon  a  Ihie  twentynriz  stiles  in  leiglk 
The  soU  of  the  vslley  Is  Umestone,  irittk 
slight  exceptions,  and  of  great  fertility. 
On  iearing  these  rich  snd  well  tilled 
lands  we  enter  a  poor  and  thinly  settled 
district,  corered  chlefiy  with  «  foresi 
In  which  stunted  frfne  preralls.  Tho 
route  encounters  a  heavy  exeayatknt 
and  embankment  for  four  or  five  nUlea 
firom  the  Korth  Mountain,  and  croaes  ^ 
Back  Creek  upon  a  stone  viaduct  of* 
single  arch  of  eighty  feet  span  and  .fifty- 
four  feet  above  the  stream.  The  view, 
across,  and  of  the  Potomac  VaUey  Is  mag- 
nificent as  yon  approach  tibe  bridge,  sod 
extends  as  fiur  u  the  distant  mountaio> 
range  of  Sideling  Hill,  SS  mllea  to  tha 
West  The  Immematenuurdo  of  the  river 
Is  reached  at  a  point  oppoiite  Fort  JMk 
crick  on  the  Maryland  side,  an  ansiiBni 
stronghold,  erected  a  hundred  years  ago, 
and  still  In  pretty  good  preservatloa, 

From  this  p<dnt,  thirty  miles  from 
Harper's  Ferry,  the  route  follows  tho 
Virginia  shore  of  the  river  upon  bottom 
lands,  interrupted  only  by  the  rocky 
bluib  opposite  Ucking  Creek,  fi>R  tea 
miles  to  Hancock.  The  only  ceoaider- 
able  stream  crossed  in  this  diatanoe  is 
Sleepy  Creek,  which  is  passed  bja  via- 
duct of  two  spans  of  one  hundred  «^ 
ten  feet  each.  Hancock  is  in  Marybnid, 
and  although  a  town  of  no  great  sise  or 
importance,  makes  some  show  when 
seen  across  the  river  firom  the  statioa 
at  the  mouth  of  Warm  Sprii:^  Bon. ; 

The  route  firom  Hancock  to  Ciunber- 
land  pursues  the  margin  of  the  Potomao 
River,  with  four  exceptions.  The  first 
occurs  at  Dm  OuUey,  eighteen  miles 
above  Hancock,  where  by  a  tunnel  of 
1,200  feet  in  lensth  a  bend  of  the  river 
is  cut  oll^  and  a  {Ustance  of  neariy  four 
miles  saved.  The  second  Is  at  the  Faif 
Paw  Bidge,  where  a  distance  of  nearly 
two  miles  i»  saved  by  a  tunnel  of  860  feet 
hi  length.  The  third  and  fourth  are  with- 
in rix  miles  of  Cumberland,  where  two 
bends  are  cut  across  by  the  route  with 
a  conriderable  lessening  of  distance. 

In  advancing  westward  from  Han- 
cock the  line  passes  alons  the  western 
base  of  Warm  Spring  Bidge,  appiOM}^ 


909 


BdittaOT*  aad  Oilo  Irihn^. 


Iiig  wlthlii  a  oonple  of  uUm  of  the 
Btrtwioy  Wipria^  whioh  an  at  the 
OMtorn  fiMt  of  that  ridge.  It  then 
iweepe  wound  the  termination  of  the 
Oaoapon  Moantein,  oppoelte  the  remnrk- 
Able  and  Inaoleted  enoinenoe  oalled  the 
"Bound  Top."  Thenoe  the  road  proeeedi 
to  Uie  eroMing  of  the  Great  Oaoanon 
Rirer,  nine  and  a  half  milea  abore  Han- 
eook,  whieh  la  croMed  by  a  bridge 
about  800  feet  In  length.  Within  the 
next  mfle  It  paseee  dam  No.||'  of  the 
CheflapMke  and  Ohio  Oanal,  and  soon 
after,  It  enters  Uie  gap  of  Sideling  Hill, 
that  famous  bug-bear  of  the  trareller, 
which  on  the  JTational  Turnpike  opposes 
such  a  formidable  barrier  to  his  Jour- 
ney, but  which  here  is  unnoticed  except 
in  the  fine  profile  whioh  it  exhibits  on 
each  ride  of  the  river,  as  it  declines 
rapidlj  to  the  water  leveL 

In  the  gap  of  this  monntdn  are  the 
ooal  Tefais  which  the  late  R.  Oaton, 
EM}.,  with  that  zeal  which  always  dis- 
tinguished  his  researches  in  this  branch 
of  praetioal  getrfogy,  endeavored  to 
turn  to  profltalfle  account.  The  slack 
water  of  the  canal  dam  extends  some 
two  miles  above  Sideling  HIIL 

The  next  point  of  hiterest  reached  is 
the  TamMl  at  Do*  Ckdloy.  The 
approaehes  to  this  formidable  work  are 
very  imposinr,  as  for  several  miles 
above  and  berow  the  tunnel  they  cause 
the  road  to  occupy  a  hi{^  level  on  the 
dopes  of  the  river  hills,  and  thus  afibrd 
an  extenrive  view  of  the  grand  moun- 
tdn  scenery  around.  The  tunnel  is,  as 
before  mentioned,  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mfiie  In  length,  through  a  compact  slate 
rock,  which  Is  arched  with  brick  to  pre- 
serve it  flrom  Aiture  disintegration  by 
atmospheric  action.  The  fronts  'or  fa- 
cades Of  the  arch  are  of  a  fine  white 
sandstone,  procured  from  the  summit 
of  the  neighboring  mountain.  The 
wid<li  of  the  opening  within  the  brick 
work  of  the  arch  is  Isi  feet,  and  the 
hei^t  20},  affbrding  room  for  two 
tracks.  The  height  of  the  hill  above 
the  roof  of  the  tunnel  is  110  feet.  The 
excavation  and  embankments  ac^acent 
are  very  heavy,  and  conrist  of  the  slate 
rock  through  which  the  tunnel  is  cut. 


Above  this  pobt  the  lliiei|ki 
the  very  rinvoos  put  of  the  river  lytaur 
between  ISdeling  HiU  on  the  east,  M 
Town  HOI  on  this  west  Theonrvaa 
are  not  however  abrupt,  but  form  fine 
•weeping  dreuits,  passing  smnetfanei 
along  tieantlftil  attavlal  bottoms  and 
again  at  the  foot  of  preoipitona  dlflb. 

The  Paw  Paw  Ridge  Tunnel  Is  next 
reached,  thirty  mfles  ihmi'  Haneook, 
and  twenty-five  miles  below  Omnber- 
land.  This  tunnri  is  through  a  soft 
slate  rock,  and  is  curved  horisontdly 
with  a  radius  of  760  feet.  It  is  of  the 
same  sectional  dimensions  with  the  Doe 
QuUey  Tunnel,  and  la  completely  arched 
with  brick,  and  fronted  with  wute  sand- 
stone. Thence  the  route  reaches  Little 
Oaoapon  Creek,  21^  miles  from  Gum* 
berland.  At  the  mouth  of  this  stream 
there  are  fine  flats,  and  a  beautifrd  vbsw 
of  the  mountafais  to  the  eastward. 

The  viaduct  over  the  creek  is  148 
feet  long.  About  five  and  a  half  milei 
further  on,  the  south  branch  of  the 
Potomac  Is  crossed  on  a  bridge  400 
feet  long.  This  Is  In  fiMst  the  mala 
Potomac,  and  would  have  been  (as  the 
story  runs )  so  treated  by  tiie  commla- 
rioners  who  determined. the  boundary 
of  Maryknd  and  Yiighiia,  but  that  the 
north  branch  has  the  aj^arance,  at 
the  MMi^iMiiM,  of  being  the  kuger 
stream.  The  river  bottoms  are  here 
wide  and  exceedingly  fortile,  and  the 
scenery  very  beautiful  The  eartiMna 
of  the  strata  in  the  section  of  the  South 
Branch  Mountiun,  Just  above  the  Junc- 
tion, is  most  remarkable  and  grand. 

Some  two  miles  above  is  a  fine  straight 
line,  over  the  widely  expanded  flats  op> 
posite  the  ancient  village  of  Old  Town, 
in  Maryland.  These  are  tiie  finest  bot- 
tom lands  on  the  river,  and  from  the 
upper  end  of  them  is  obtained  the  first 
view  of  the-Snohhr  Momitsiiii,  that 
remarkable  range  which  lies  in  a  line 
with  tbe  town  of  Cumberland,  and  is 
BO  singularly  diversified  by  a  profile 
whioh  makes  it  appear  like  a  succesrion 
of  artificial  mounds.  Dan's  Mountain 
towers  over  it,  forming  a  fine  back 
ground  to  the  view,  ^on  after,  the 
route  passes  the  high  cHflBk  known  by 


910 


MMMTJJJnK 


M4<»leB«ati«f. 


the  iwn«  of  Kelly's  RooIm,  irh«i«  Umm 

MttafMBhi  Onik,  tight  biUm  from 
OonberUnd,  Is  next  NMhadL  ImoM- 
dUtelj  Mow  thif  stNui  Is  •  loftr 
munl  pneiplo*  of  UmMtone  And  Muia- 
•tone  rock,  ilngalarly  porforAtod  In 
■O0M  of  th«  MgM  bj  opealnn  which 
look  Uko  Gothic  loopholM.  The  tsI- 
1*7  of  thla  crack  !■  VC17  atraldht  Mid  bor> 
dcred  bj  bcAOtlM  fl»tc.  The  yteduct 
OTcr  the  atream  la  150  fact  long.  Lcaa 
than  two  miles  above,  and  ox  mUca 
fk«m  Oambcrland,  the  north  branch  of 
'the  Potomac  la  crossed  by  a  Tiaduct 
fOO  feet  long,  and  rising  in  •  saoces> 
sion  of  steps— embradng  also  a  cross* 
Ing  of  the  Ghesapcake  and  Ohio  Canal. 
Tms  extcnslTe  bridge  carries  us  out  of 
Ylrvlnia  and  hmds  us  onoe  more  Into 
Old  M aryhmd,  which  we  left  at  Harper's 
Ferry,  and  kept  out  offer  a  distance  <tf 
ninety-one  miles. 

The  route  thence  to  Cumberland  is 
acroas  two  bends  of  the  river,  between 
which  the  stream  of  Evett's  Creek  is 
crossed  by  a  viaduct  of  100  feet  span. 

The  entrance  to  the  town  of  Otm^ 
tnluad  is  beautlAd,  and  disi^ys  the 
noble  amphitheatre  in  which  it  liea  to 
great  advantage,  the  gap  of  Will's 
Mountain,  westward  of  the  town,  being 
n  justly  prominent  feature  of  the  view. 

The  brick  and  stone  viaduct  over 
Wells  Creek,  at  Oumberiand,  is  enUtled 
to  particular  notice.  It  consists  of 
14  elliptical  arches  of  50  feet  span  and 
18  feet  rise,  and  is  n  well  built  and 
handsome  structure. 

From  Cumberhmd  to  Piedmont,  28 
miles,  the  scenery  is  remarkably  pic- 
turesque, perhaps  more  so  than  upon 
any  other  section  of  the  road  of  similar 
length.  For  the  flrat  22  miles,  to  the 
mouth  of  New  Creek,  the  Knobly 
Mountain  bounds  the  valley  of  the 
North  Branch  of  the  I'otomac  on  the 
left,  and  WiU's  and  Dan's  Mountdbs  on 
the  right;  thence,  to  Piedmont,  the 
river  lies  in  the  ^p  which  it  has  cut 
through  the  latter  mountain. 
~  The  following  points  may  be  specially 
noticed : — 

The  general  direction  of  the  road  hi 


south-west,  for  21  mOes,  to  the  month 
of  New  Creek.  ^* 

The  diflb,  which  occur  at  interrals 
during  the  first  10  miles. 

The  wide  bottom  landa,  extending  fbr 
the  next  four  miles,  with  sobm  remark- 
ably bold  and  beautiftil  mountato  peaks 
in  view. 

The  hifdi  rocky  bhdBi  alone  Fort 
HiU,  and  the  grand  mural  precifMoe  op-  > 
posite  to  them,  on  the  Virginia  riiore, 
Immedlilelv  below  the  "  Stock  Oak  Bot- 
tom," a  celebrated  fiurm  embracing  500 
acres  in  a  sbgle  phdn,  between  moun- 
tains of  great  height. 

TIm  OhiauMsr  Hoto  Roek^  at  tho 
termbation  of  Fort  Hill,  a  «higidar 
crag,  through  the  base  of  which  the 
Railroad  Company  have  driven  a  tunnd 
under  the  road  to  answer  the  purpose 
of  a  bridge  for  several  streams  enttffaig 
the  river  at  that  point. 

The  crossing  of  the  Potomac,  ftom 
the  Maryland  to  the  Virginia  shore,  21 
miles  from  Cumbcrlano,  where  thi 
railroad,  after  paasin§.  through  n  long 
and  deep  excavation,  spane  the  river 
by  a  bridge  of  timber  and  iron,  on 
stone  abutments  and  a  pier.  The  view 
at  thb  point,  both  up  and  down  the 
river,  is  very  fine.  The  bridge  is  n 
noble  structure,  roofed  and  weather- 
boarded.  It  has  two  spans  of  160  feet 
each,  making  the  total  length  820  feet. 

Tho  BnWs  Band  Book,  a  ibile  be- 
yond this  point  the  railroad,  having  out 
through  the  neek,  haa  left  the  head 
standing,  a  bold  block  of  rock  breasting 
the  river,  which  dashes  hard  against  it. 
Immediately  on  the  other  side  of  the 
cut  made  by  the  railroad  through  the 
neck,  rises  a  conical  hill  of  great  height. 
The  mouth  of  New  Creek,  where  there 
is  a  beautiful  plain  of  a  mile  or  more  in 
length,  and  opposite  to  which  is  the 
long  promontory  of  Pine  HiU,  terminat- 
ing in  Queen's  piifP,  on  the  Maryhuid 
side  of  tiie  river.  The  profile  and  pass 
of  Dan's  Mountdn  is  seen  in  bold  relief 
to  the  north-west,  to  which  direction 
the  road  now  changes  its  course.  The 
road  skirts  the  foot  of  Thunder  Hill, 
and  winds  along  the  river  margin, 
bounded  by  Dan's  Monntahi  and  ita 


tit 


<m 


■Imp  apttii,  fl>rMT«n  nUM,  op  to  fti^ 
moot.    The  eamnt  of  (be  ri?«r  ii  ni««li 
mora  rapid  hero  Uum  bolow,  tad  iiknds 
ara  mora  ftvqout. 
VtodMoat,  a  U(  of  Umltod  ostont, 

rMlto  tiM  MBall  bill  aaolont  fiUago 
WMloraporl,  at  (bo  bmm^  of 
Oeorg«*s  Oraek. 

Wm(  of  Piodmont  (bo  raad  aaoondi 
1?  mllM  bj  a  grade,  of  wblob  11  milee 
le  at  the  nto  of  116  ibet  per  mile,  (o 
(be  AKamoiit  Summit.  Tbe  poinia 
wortby  of  notlde  tai  (ble  die(anoe  are— 

Tbe  ■(OM  Tiadae(  of  (bree  arabee,  of 
66  feet  span,  orer  (be  Potomae  River, 
wbera  (lie  road  recrawee  io(o  Marjbuid. 
I(  ia  a  iobe(an(ial  aod  bandiome  struc- 
(ura,  and  eloTated  60  fee(  abore  (lie 
wa(er.  Tbe  road  (ben  windi,  for  five 
milea,  vp  (Im  Talley  of  SavaM  Ri?er, 
pambig  (be  Brarat(  Tunnel,  of  800  fee( 
in  length,  and  82  miles  from  Cumber- 
land. Tbii  (unnel  hi  lecund  by  a  brick 
arob.  Tbe  winding  of  (be  road  up  (be 
inoun(aln  aide,  along  SoTage  River, 
gradually  Ineraasei  i(8  elevation  until  i( 
a((aina  a  belgb(  of  200  fee(  above  (be 
wa(er,  and  fMaoing  ua  far  above  the  (ops 
of  (be  (rees  growing  in  (he  valley,  or 
ra(her  deep  ravine,  on  our  rigb(,  pra- 
aen(s  a  grand  view. 

Tlie  mou(b  of  Orab«Tree  Greek,  whera 
the  road  turns  (he  flank  of  (he  Qraa( 
Back-bone  Moun(ain — ^from  (his  pobi(, 
the  view  up  Savage  River  to  the  north, 
and  CralHTree  Greek  to  the  south-west, 
is  magnificent ;  the  latter  presenting  a 
vista  of  several  miles  up  a  deep  gorge 
gradually  growing  narrower ;  tbe  former 
a  bird's-eye  view  of  a  deep,  winding 
trough  bounded  by  mountdn  ridges  <? 
great  elevation. 

Thrae  miles  up  Grab-Tree  Greek  is  an 
ezpavation  108  feet  deep,  through  a 
rooky  spur  of  the  monntidn. 

About  five  miles  from  its  mouth, 
Grab-Tree  Greek  is  first  crossed  by  the 
road  on  an  embankment  of  67  feet  in 
height,  and  after  that  several  times  at 
reduced  elevations,  until,  in  two  miles 
more,  the  forks  of  the  craek  ara  raached 
at  the  Swanton  level,  whera  ara  the  re- 
nudns  of  an  abandoned  clearing  and  an 
old  mill    Hera  also  the  old  Oumber- 


knd  Ba4  CTartaiboig  road  eras^ib,  tbo 
first  wagon  ro*d  of  tbe  oountry  after, 
tbe  pe«k-bone  bad  i^vtB  piaoe  to  tbo 
wbemd  v^iiole. 

▲U  tbe  way  np  Savage  River  and 
Orab-Trae  Greek,  11  mliee  to  this  pohit. 
the  road  Is  bung  upon  tbe  ragged  ana 
uncultivated  mountain  side;  but  from 
Swanton  to  tbo  ▲hamont  Summit,  tiireo 
or  four  miles,  H  asoends  along  the  flat 
bottom  of  a  beautiful  valley  of  gentle 
skipea,  peesing  one  ftr  two  pratty 
fbrms. 

AHniOBl,  tbe  oulmlnathig  point  of 
tbe  Une,  at  a  height  of  8,626  feet  above 
tide  water  a(  BaHlmoro— (be  dividing 
ridge  be(ween  tbe  Fotomao  and  Ohio 
waters— is  passed  by  a  long  open  cot  of 
upwards  of  80  feet  in  depth.  Tbo 
great  Baek-Bone  Mountain,  now  passe  i, 
towers  up  on  (be  left  band,  and  is  seen 
a(  every  opening  in  (ha(  direction. 

Th*  CHadoi,  which  reaob  from  Al» 
(amont  to  Granberry  Summit,  18  mile% 
ara  beautifbl,  natural  meadows,  lying 
along  tbe  upper  waters  of  tbe  i  oucbf 
ogheny  River,  and  its  numerous  tribu- 
taries, divided  by  ridgee  generally  of 
moderate  elevation  and  gentle  slope, 
with  fine  ranges  of  mountains, In  the 
back-ground.  Tbe  Okdes  have  numer> 
ous  arms  wUch  make  charming  ezpan^ 
sions  of  their  valleys,  and  afford  beau- 
tiful vistas  in  manv  directions.  Thefar 
verdora  is  peouUaily  bright  and  firesh, 
and  tbo  streams  watering  them  era  of 
singular  clearness  and  purity,  and 
abound  in  fine  trout. 

Oaklands  is  a  promising  village  64 
miles  west  of  Gumberland.  It  is  newly 
laid  out,  and  ahready  shows  a  respect- 
able number  of  good  frame  houses. 
From  this  point  a  magnificent  view  of 
the  broad  Olade  eostwa^  and  the  moun- 
tain beyond  it  is  obtained. 

The  crossing  of  the  great  Toiaghio> 
glieny  Biwor  is  by  a  viaduct  of  thnber 
and  iron — a  single  arch  of  180  feet 
span  resting  on  stone  abutments.  The 
dte  of  this  fine  structura  is  wild;  the 
river  runnine  hero  in  a  woody  gorge. 

The  orosnng  of  the  Maryluid  and 
Virginia  boun&ry  line  is  60  miles  ttom 
Gumberland. 


218 


XABTLAin>. 


BflltlmoM  and  Ohio  Bailwijr. 


Tb*  Falls  of  BnoiTf  Onek,  where 
the  road,  after    skirting  a   beautiful 

S'ade,  enters  a  saTage-looking  pass 
rough  a  deep  forest  of  hemlocks  and 
laurel  .thickets,  the  stream  dashing  over 
large  rocks  and  washing  t,he  side  of  the 
road  but  a  few  feet  below  its  leveL 

The  forks  of  Snowy  Creek,  where 
three  branches  come  together,  making 
a  broad  valley  west  of  the  pass  just 
described. 

The  Cranberry  Swamp  Summit  (68^ 
miles  from  Cumberland)  at  the  head  of 
Snowy  Creek,  falling  into  the  Toughi- 
ogheny,  also  of  Salt  lick  Creek,  emp- 
tying into  Cheat  River.  A  village 
shows  its  beginnings  here.  The  grouad 
on  the- margin  of  uie  toad  is  flat  (ua  its 
name  imports)  yet  its  elevation  above 
tide  water  is  2,660  feet,  afad  but  76  feet 
lower  than  Altamont  Summit. 

The  descent  of  12  miles  to  Cheat 
Biver  presents  a  rapid  succeodon  of 
very  heavy  excavations  and  embank- 
ments, and  two  tnnnels,  viz.,  the 
McGuire  Tunnel  of  600,  and  the  Ro- 
demer  Tunnel  of  400  feet  in  length, 
secured  by  heavy  timbers  preparatory 
to  arching  with  brick.  There  is  also  a 
stone  and  iron  viaduct  over  Salt  Lick 
Creek  60  feet  span  and  60  feet  high. 
The  creek  passes  through  a  denee 
forest  of  fir  trees  in  its  approach  to  the 
river. 

Ohoftt  Riwor  is  a  dark  rapid  moun- 
tain stream,  whose  waters  are  of  a  curi- 
ous coffee-colored  hue,  owing,  it  is 
said,  to  its  rising  in  forests  of  laurel  and 
black  spruce  on  the  highest  mountain 
levels  of  that  country.  This  stream  is 
crossed  by  a  viaduct  consisting  of  two 
arches  180  and  180  feet  span,  of  timber 
and  iron  on  stone  abutments  and  pier. 
The  masonry,  built  from  a  fine  free- 
stone quarry  close  at  hand,  is  remark- 
ably substantial  and  well  looking. 

The  ascent  of  the  Cheat  River  HiU 
comes  next.  This  is  decidedly  the  most 
imposing  section  of  the  whole  line — the 
difficulties  encountered  in  the  four  miles 
west  of  the  crossing  of  the  river  being 
quite  appalling.  The  road,  winding  up 
t^e  slope  of  Laurel  Hill  and  its  spurs, 
with  the  river  on  the  right  hand,  first 


orosses  the  ravine  of  Kyer's  Run  'TB-ftet 
deep,  by  a  solid  embankment ;  then, 
after  bold  cutting,  along  a  steep,  roclcy 
hill-side,  it  reaches  Buckeye  HoUow, 
the  df  pth  of  which  is  108  feet  below 
the  road  level,  and  400  feet  across  at 
that  level;  some  more  ride  cutting  in 
rook  ensues,  and  the  passage  of  two  or 
three  coves  in  the  hill-side,  when  wei 
come  to  Tray  Run,  and  cross  it  160 
feet  above  its  original  bed  by  a  line  of 
trestling  600  feet  long  at  the  road  leveL 
Both  these  deep  chaams  have  solid 
waUs  of  masonry  built  across  them,  the 
foundations  of  which  are  on  the  solid 
rock,  120  and  180  feet  respectively  be> 
low  the  road  height.  They  are  crossed 
on  elegant  cast-iron  viaducts. 

After  passing  these  two  tremendous 
clefts  in  the  mountain  side,  the  road 
winds  along  a  precipitous  slope  with 
heavy  cutting,  filUng,  and  walfing,  to 
Buclchom  Branch,  a  wide  and  deep 
cove  on  the  western  flank  of  tlie  rnoun* 
tain.  This  is  crossed  by  a  soUd  embank- 
ment and  retaining  well  90  feet  high  at 
its  most  elevated  point.  *Some  half 
mile  further,  after  more  heavy  outs  and 
fills,  the  road  at  length  leaves  the  de- 
clivity of  the  river,  which,  where  we  see 
it  for  the  last  time,  lays  600  feet  below 
us,  and  turns  westward  through  a  low 
gap,  which  admits  it  by  a  moderate 
cutting,  followed  soon,  however,  by  a 
deep  and  long  one  through  Cassidy's 
Summit  Ridge  to  the  table  land  of  the 
country  bordering  Cheat  lUver  on  the 
west.  Here,  at  80  miles  from  Cumber- 
land, we  enter  the  great  western  coal- 
field, having  passed  out  of  the  Cumber^ 
land  field  at  86  miles  from  that  place. 
The  intermediate  space,  although  with- 
out coal,  will  be  readily  supplied  from 
the  adjacent  coal  basins. 

Descending  somewhat  firom  Cassidy's 
Ridge,  and  passing  by  a  high  embank- 
ment over  the  Brushy  Fork  of  Pringle's 
Run,  the  line  soon  reaches  the  King- 
wood  Tunnel,  of  4,100  feet  in  lenjgth, 
the  longest  finished  tunnel  in  America. 

Leaving  Eingwood  Tunnel,  the  line 
for  6  miles  descends  along  a  steep  hill- 
side to  the  flats  of  Raccoon  Creek,  at 
Simpson's.    In  this  distance  it  lies  high 


ICA&YLAND. 


218 


Baltimore  aaid  Ohio  BaUwsy, 


ent ;  then, 
teep,  rocky 
lye  HoUow, 
feet  below 
It  aerOH  •! 

>  cotting  in 
;e  of  two  or 
e,  when  wei^ 
roM  it  160 
by  a  Une  of 
s  road  leveL 

hare  solid  . 
BS  them,  the 
on  the  solid 
(Mctively  be- 
r  are  oroased 
ts. 

tremendous 
ie,  the  road 
I  slope  with 
I  wa&ng,  to 
ie  and  deep 
of  the  moon- 
otid  embank- 

>  feet  high  at 
•  Some  half 

lavy  cuts  and 

aves  the  de- 

vhere  we  see 

)0  feet  below 

rough  a  low 

a  moderate 

wever,  by  a 

igh  Oasmdy^s 

I  land  of  the 

liver  on  the 

•om  Guraber- 

restem  coal- 

the  Cumber- 

1  that  place. 

though  with- 

ipplied  from 

om  Oassidy's 
igh  embank- 

ofFringle's 
is  the  King- 
it  in  length, 
in  America, 
nel,  the  Une 

a  steep  hill- 
on  Creek,  at 
te  it  lies  high 


above  the  valley,  and  crosses  a  branch 
of  it  with  an  embankment  100  feet  in 
elevation.  There  are  two  other  heavy 
fills  further  on.  Two  mUes  west  of  the 
Kingwood  Tunnel  is  Murray's  Tunnel, 
260  feet  long,  a  regular  and  beautiful 
semicircular  arch  cut  out  of  a  fine  solid 
sandstone  rock,  overlaying  a  vein  of 
coal  six  feet  thick,  which  is  seen  on  the 
floor  of  the  tunnel. 

From  Simpson's,  westward,  the  route 
pursues  the  valleys  of  Baccoon  and 
Three  Forks  Creeks,  which  present  no 
features  of  difficulty  to  the  mouth  of 
the  latter,  101  miles  from  Cumberland, 
at  the  Tygart's  Valley  River,  where 
the  railroad  to  Parkersburg  diverges 
firom  that  to  Wheeling.  The  distance 
to  these  two  places  (which  are  90  miles 
apart  on  the  Ohio  River)  is  nearly  equal, 
being  104  miles  to  the  former,  and  99 
to  the  latter. 

Fetterman,  a  promising-looking  vil- 
lage, two  milea  west  of  the  last  point, 
and  108^  miles  from  Cumberland.  Here 
the  turnpike  to  Parkersburg  and  Mari- 
etta crosse^the  river.  The  route  from 
Fetterman  to  Fairmont  has  but  one 
very  striking  feature.  The  Tygart's 
YaUey  River,  whose  margin  it  foUows, 
is  a  beautiful  and  winding  stream,  of 
gentle  current,  except  at  the  Falls, 
where  the  river  descends,  principally 
by  three  or  four  perpendicular  pitches, 
some  '70  feet  in  about  a  mile.  A  mile 
and  a  half  above  Fairmont  the  Tygart's 
Valley  River  and  the  West  Fork  River 
unite  to  form  the  Monongahela — ^the 
first  being  the  larger  of  the  two  con- 
fiuents. 

A  quarter  of  a  mile  below  their  junc- 
tion, the  railroad  crosses  the  Mononga- 
heUi,  upon  a  viaduct  660  feet  long  and 
89  feet  above  low  water  surface.  The 
lofty  and  massive  abutments  of  this 
bridge  support  an  iron  superstructure 
of  three  arches  of  200  feet  span  each, 
and  which  forms  the  largest  iron  bridge 
in  Ameriea. 

The  road,  a  mile  and  a  half  below 
Fairmont,  Ie  ives  the  valley  of  the  ocau- 
tifiil  Monongahela  and  ascends  the 
winding  and  picturesque  ravine  of  Buf- 
falo Creek,  a  stream  some  twenty-five 


miles  in  length.  The  creek  is  first 
crossed  five  miles  west  of  Fairmont, 
itnd  again  at  two  points  a  riiort  distance 
apart,  and  about  nine  miles  farther 
west. 

About  eleven  miles  beyond  Fairmont 
we  pass  the  small  hamlet  of  Farming- 
ton,  and  seven  or  eight  miles  fiirtherui 
the  thriving  village  of  "  Mannington," 
at  the  mouth  of  Piles'  Fork  of  Buftalo. 
There  is  a  beautiful  fiat  here  on  both 
sides  of  the  stream,  affording  room  for 
a  town  of  some  use,  and  surrounded 
by  hills  of  a  most  agreeable  aspect. 
Thence  to  the  head  of  Files'  Fork,  the 
road  traverses  at  first  a  narrow  and  ser- 
pentine gorge,  with  five  bridges  at  de- 
ferent points,  after  which  it  courses 
with  more  gentle  curvatures  along  a 
wider  and  moderately  winding  vdley, 
with  meadow  land  of  one  or  two  hun- 
dred yards  broad  on  one  or  other  mar- 
gin. Numerous  tributaries  open  out 
pretty  vistas  on  either  hand.  This  part 
of  the  valley,  in  its  summer  dress,  is 
singularly  beautiful.  After  reaching  its 
head  at  Glover's  Clap,  28  miles  beyond 
Fairmont,  the  road  passes  the  ridge  by 
deep  cutSf  and  a  tunnel  860  feet  long, 
of  curious  shape,  forming  a  sort  of 
Moorish  arch  in  its  roof.  From  this 
summit,  (which  divides  the  waters  of 
the  Monongahela  from  those  of  the 
Ohio,)  the  line  descends  by  Church's 
Fork  of  Fish  Creek--a  valley  of  the 
same  general  features  with  .the  one  just 
passed  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  ridge. 

The  road  now  becomes  winding,  and 
in  the  next  four  miles 'we  cross  the  creek 
on  bridges  eight  times.  We  also  pass 
Cole's  Tunnel,  112  feet,  Eaton's  Tunnel, 
170  feet,  and  Marten's  Tunnel,  180  feet 
long — ^the  first  a  low-browed  opening, 
which  looks  as  if  it  would  knock  off 
the  smoke-pipe  of  the  engine ;  the  next 
a  regular  arched  roof,  and  the  third  a 
tall  narrow  slit  in  the  rock,  lined  with 
timbers  lofty  enough  to  be  taken  for  a 
church  steeple. 

The  Littleton  Station  is  reached  just 
beyond,  and  Board  Tree  Tunnel  is  soon 
at  hand. 

Leaving  Board  Tree  Tunnel,  the  line 
detsconds  along  the  hill-side  of  the  North 


2U 


DISTBIOr  OF  COCDICBIA* 


Routes  to  WMhlogtoa  Oltj . 


Fork  of  Fish  Greek,  orostiDg  ravines 
and  spurs  by  deep  fillings  and  cnttings, 
and  reaching  the  level  of  the  flats  bor- 
dering the  Greek  at  Bell's  Mill;  soon 
after  which  it  crosses  the  creek  and 
ascends  Hart's  Run  and  Four  Mile  Bun 
tQ  the  Welling  Tunnel,  60  miles  west  of 
Fairmont,  and  28  from  Wheeling.  This 
tunnel  is  1,260  feet  long,  and  pierces 
the  ridge  between  fish  Creek  and  Orave 
Greek.  It  is  through  slate  rock  like 
the  Board  Tree  Tunnel,  and  is  substan- 
tially propped  with  timbers. 

From  the  Welling  Tunnel  the  line 
pursues  the  valley  of  Grave  Greek  1*7 
miles  to  its  mouth  at  the  Flats  of  Grave 
Greek  on  the  Ohio  River,  11  miles  be- 
low Wheeling.  The  first  five  miles  of 
the  ravine  of  Grave  Gre^k  is  of  gentle 
curvature  and  open  aspect,  like  the 
others  already  mentioned.  Afterwards 
it  becomes  very  sinuous,  and  the  stream 
requires  to  be  bridged  eight  times. — 
There  are  aiao  aevertd  deep  cuts  throueh 
sharp  ridges  in  the  bends  of  the  creek, 
and  one  tunnel  400  feet  long  at  Shep- 
pard's,  19  miles  from  Wheeling. 

The  approach  to  the  bank  of  the 
OUo  Bivwr,  at  the  village  of  Mouuds- 


ville,  is  very  beautifhl.  .  The  ^  line 
emerging  firom  the  defile  of  Gi-are 
Greek,  passes  straight  over  the  "flats" 
which  border  the  river,  and  forming  a 
vast  rolling  plain,  in  the  middle  of  wmch 
looms  up  the  *' great  Indian  mound," 
eighty  feet  high  and  two  hundred  feet 
broad  at  its  base.  There  is  ateothe 
separate  village  of  Elizabethtown,  half 
a  mile  from  the  river  bank,  the  mound 
standing  between  two  towns  and  look- 
ing down  upon  them  both.  The  "  flats" 
embrace  an  area  of  some  4,000  acres, 
about  three-four^  of  which  lies  on  the 
Vir^^nia,  and  the  remaining  fourth  on 
the  Ohio  side  of  the  river.  The  soil  is 
fertile  and  well  cultivated,  and  the  spot 
possesses  great  interest,  whether  for  its 
agricultural  richness,  its  historic  monu« 
ments  of  past  ages,  or  the  beauty  of  its 
shape  and  position  as  the  dte  for  a 
large  city. 

About  three  miles  up  the  river  from 
MoundsviUe,  the  "flats"  terminate,  and 
the  road  passes  for  a  mile  along  rocky 
narrows  washed  by  the  river,  after 
which  it  runs  over  wide,  ricU,  and  beau- 
tiful bottom  lands,  all  the  way  to  Wheel- 
ing. 


THE  DISTRICT  OF  COLUMBIA. 

The  IMstrict  of  Columbia  is  a  nti  generis  tract,  neither  State  or  Territory,  but 
■et  apart,  oro  bono  publico,  as  the  seat  of  the  Federal  Government.  It  was  ceded 
to  the  United  States  for  this  purpose  by  Maryland.  It  occupies  an  area  of  sixty 
square  miles.  Originally  its  measure  was  one  hundred  square  miles,  the  ad- 
ditional forty  coming  from  Virginia.  This  part  of  the  cession,  however,  was  re- 
troceded  in  1846.  It  embraced  what  is  now  Alleghany  County,  Virginia,  in 
which  the  city  of  Alexandria  is  included.  The  present  cities  of  the  District  are 
Washington  the  National  Capital,  and  Georgetown,  close  by.  Maryland  lies 
upon  all  sides,  except  the  southwest,  where  it  is  separated  from  Vir^nia  by  the 
Potomac  River. 

The  District  of  Columbia  is  governed  directly  by  the  Congress  of  the  United 
States,  and  its  inhabitants  have  no  representation,  and  no  voice  in  the  Federal 
elections. 


Xoute  from  Baltimore  to  Wtuhington 
City. 

The  nulway  firom  Baltimore  to  Wash- 
ington, 40  miles,  is  over  the  Baltimore 
and  Ohio  route,  to  the  Reky  House, 


nine  miles,  and  thence  by  the  Washing- 
ton Branch  Road,  31  miles.  Immedi- 
ately upon  leaving  the  route  «»f  the  Bal- 
timore and  Ohio  Road,  the  traveller 
passes  over  the  Thomas  Viaduct,  a 
grand  structure  across  the  valley  of  th« 


DIBXBIOT  OV  COLUMBIA. 


SIS 


Waahingttm  and  Yleiiilty. 


Fatazent.  The  Branch  route  for  An- 
napolis, the  capital  of  Mainland,  leaves 
the  Washington  road  at  the  Annapolis 
Junction,  18  miles.  Pasrine  Bhtdens- 
burg,  and  approaching  witbui  a  few 
miles  of  the  city,  the  grand  walls  and 
domM  of  the  Oapitol,  upon  its  lofty  ter- 
race height,  make  a  magnificent  feature 
in  the  luidscape.  The  terminus  of  the 
road  is  :aear  tiie  foot  of  the  Capitol 
HiU. 


WASHIN6T<»r  AND  VIOINITT. 

Washington  City,  tho  political  capital 
of  the  United  States,  is  in  the  District 
of  Cdambia,  near  the  banks  of  the  Po- 
tomac River.  It  is  40  miles  distant 
from  BiUtimore,  186  from  Philadelphia, 
and  226  from  New  York,  with  which 
cities,  as  wdl  as  with  all  the  chief  towns 
of  the  Union,  it  is  connected  by  ndlway. 
When  the  original  plan  of  Washington 
shall  be  realized  in  its  tall  growth  to 
the  proportions  it  was  designed  to 
reach— M  may  yet  happen — ^it  will  be  in 
its  own  right,  and  without  the  idd  of  its 
offidal  position,  one  of  the  great  cities 
of  the  Union.  It  would  be  difficult  to 
invent  a  more  magnificent  scheme 
than  that  of  the  founder  of  Washing- 
ton, or  to  find  a  location  more  eligible 
for  its  successful  execution.  Its  easy 
access  from  the  sea  gives  it  every  facil- 
ity for  commercial  greatness,^  and  its 
varied  topography  ahnost  compels  pic- 
turesque effect  and  beauty. 

The  site  was  chosen  by  Washington 
*  himself,  and  it  was  he  who  laid  the 
corner-stone  of  the  Capitol.  This  was 
on  the  18th  of  September,  1793,  seven 
years  before  the  seat  of  government 
was  removed  thither  from  Philadel- 
phia. 

The  scene  from  the  lofty  poidtion  of 
the  dome  of  the  Capitol,  or  from  the 
high  terrace  upon  which  this  magnifi- 
cent edifice  stands,  is  one  of  unrivalled 
beauty,  and  it  gives  the  visitor  at  once 
tnd  thoroughly,  a  clear  idea  of  the 
natural  advantages  of  the  region,  and 
of  the  character,  extent,  and  possibiU- 
ties  of  the  city.  Looking  eastward,  for 
^e  Sf  ace  of  a  mile  or  more,  over  a 


plain  yet  scarcely  occupied,  the  eve 
fhlla  upon  the  broad  and  beautind 
waters  of  the  Potomac,  leadins  by 
Alexandria  and  the  groves  of  Mount 
Vernon,  to  the  sea.  Turning  westward, 
it  overlooks  the  city  as  it  at  present 
exists,  upon  the  great  highway  of  Penn- 
sylvania Avenue,  to  its  obstruction,  a 
mile  ofi^  by  the  white  walls  of  the  Pies- 
ident*8  House,  the  Avenue  dropi^g 
toward  its  centre,  as  ahammock  might 
swing  between  the  two  elevated  points. 
Around,  on  other  firing  grounds,  the 
various  public  edifices  are  seen  with 
fin»  effect ;  and,  turning  agdn  to  the 
left,  the  view  takes  in  the  broad  acres 
of  the  new  national  Park,  in  which  are 
the  many  unique  towers  of  the  Smith- 
sonian  Institute,  and  the  soaring  shaft 
of  the  Washington  Monument;  off,  in 
the  distance,  across  Bocky  Creek,  are 
the  ancient-looking  walls  and  roofs  of 
Georgetowti. 

After  a  very  hasty  general  peep  at 
the  city,  the  viritor  wil^  of  course,  turn 
first  to  the  public  edifices,  which  form 
its  especial  attracti<m. 

7%«  Capitoly  in  its  magnitude  and 
in  its  magnificence  of  nuurble  and 
domes,  and  upon  its  bold  terrace  height, 
will  have  attracted  hisvcurious  wonder 
miles  distant,  whichever  way  he  may 
have  approached.  The  corner-stone,  as 
we  have  said,  of  this  imposing  structure 
was  laid  by  Washington  himself^  Sept. 
18,  1793.  In  1814,  it  was  burned  by 
the  British,  'together  wi^h  the  Library 
of  Congress,  the  President's  House, 
and  other  public  works.  In  1828  it 
was  entirely  repaired,  and  in  1861  (July 
4),  President  Illlmore  laid  the  comer- 
stone  of  the  new  buildings,  which 
make  the  edifice  now  more  than  twice 
its  original  size.  Its  whole  length  is 
761  feet,  and  the  area  covered  is  S^ 
acres.  The  surrounding  grounds,  which 
are  beautifully  cultivated  and  embel- 
lished by  fountains  and  statuary,  em- 
brace from  26  to  80  acres.  The  Senate 
Chamber  and  the  Hall  of  Representa- 
tives of  the  Congress  of  the  United 
States,  are  in  the  wings  of  the  Capitol, 
on  either  side  of  the  central  building. 
The  grand  rotundo  oontidns  eight  large 


216 


DISTBIOr  OV  COLUMBIA. 


Waahliigton— Pnblio  EdlfloM. 


The  Preddent's  House,  Washington. 


S'otnrea,  illustrating  scenes  in  American 
story,  painted  for  the  Government 
by  native  artists.  The  edifice  is  dso 
embellished,  both  within  and  without, 
by  many  other  works  of  the  pencil  and 
of  the  chisel:  chief  among  them  is 
Greenough's  colossal  marble  statue  of 
Washington,  which  stands  on  the  broad 
lawn,  before  the  eastern  facade. 

The  PresidefW*  Mansion,  or  the 
White  House,  as  it  is  popularly  called, 
is  a  mile  west  of  the  Capitol,  upon  a 
high  terrace,  at  the  opposite  extremity 
of  Pennsylvania  Avenue.  The  lawns 
around,  contidning  some  twenty  acres, 
drops  gradually  towards  the  Potomac 
River.  This  ekegant  but  not  imposing 
edifice  is  buUt  of  free-stone,  painted 
white.  It  is  two  stories  high,  170  feet 
long,  and  86  feet  deep.  On  the  north 
point,  upon  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  the 
building  has  a  portico,  with  four  Ionic 
columns,  under  which  carriages  pass. 
A  circular  colonnade  of  six  Doric  pillars 
adorns  the  Potomac  front.  In  the  centre 
of  the  lawn,  across  the  Avenue,  on  the 
nor;th,  is  Clark  Mills*  bronze  equestrian 
statue  of  General  Jackson,  erected  in 


January,  1868.  Near  the  President's 
Mansion,  on  the  one  dde,  are  the  very 
plain  buildings  of  the  Navy  and  the 
War  Departments;  and,  on  the  other 
side,  are  those  of  the  State  and  the 
Treasury  Departments. 

7%«  Treasury  Department  is  a  new 
and  imposing  stone  structure,  840 
feet  long  and  170  wide.  Its  total  length, 
when  completed,  will  be  467  feet.  The 
east  fti)nt,  on  the  bend  in  the  Avenue, 
(made  by  the  intervention  of  the 
grounds  occupied  by  the  President's* 
Mansion),  is  embellished  by  42  lonio 
columns. 

27i«  General  Post- Office  is  upon  E 
Street,  midway  between  the  President's  - 
House  and  the  Capitol.    It  is  built  of 
white  marble,  and  its  grand  dimensions 
give  it  an  imposing  air. 

The  Patent  Office  (Department  of 
the  Interior),  is  near  the  edifice  of  the 
General  Post  OfiBce ;  when  completed  it 
will  cover  an  entire  square,  and  will  be 
one  of  the  largest  and  most  interesting 
of  all  the  government  structures.  Here 
the  visitor  may  see  the  models  of  the 
countless  machines  which  have  growa 


DISTBICT  OF  COLUMBIA. 


217 


Washington  and  Yioinlty. 


Preddent*s 
are  the  very 
vy  and  the 
the  other 
ite  and  the 

t<  is  a  new 
icture,  840 
total  length, 
feet.  The 
he  Avenue, 
on  of  the 
President's* 
ty  42  lomo 

is  upon  E 
President's ' 
is  built  of 
dimenuons 

irtment  of 
ifice  of  the 
ompleted  it 
land  will  be 
interesting 
tures.  Here 
|del8  of  the 
lave  growa 


out  of  the  inventive  Yankee  brain,  and 
also  the  cabinets  of  natural  history  col- 
lected by  the  exploring  expeditions. 
Here,  too,  are  preserved  many  most  in- 
teresting relics  of  Washington  and  of 
Franklin,  and  the  presents  of  foreign 
governments. 

The  Smithsonian  Tnttitute  is  with- 
in the  area  of  the  New  Park,  west  of 
the  Oapitol,  and  south  of  Pennsylvania 
Avenue.  This  noble  institution  was 
endowed  by  James  Smithson,  Esq.,  of 
England,  "  for  the  increase  and  diffusion 
of  knowledge  among  men."  The  edi- 
fice is  cqustracted  of  red  sandstone,  in 
the  Konttan  or  Bomanesque  style.  Its 
length  In  460  feet;  its  breadth,  140; 
and  itints  nine  towers,  from  16  to  160 
feet  Ughl  It  contains  a  lecture  room, 
oapacuoos  enough  to  held  2,000  audi- 
tors; a  museum  of  natural  history,  200 
feet  in  length ;  a  superb  laboratory ;  a 
library  room,  large  enough  for  100,000 
volumes;  a  gallery  for  pictures  and 
statuary,  120  feet  in  length. 

The  National  Monument  to  Waah- 
ington,  is  also  within  the  area  of  tl^e 
New  Park.  The  base  is  to  be  circular 
teniple,  260  in  diameter,  and  100  feet 
high,  upon  which  there  is  to  be  a  shaft 
of  70  feet  base,  and  600  feet  high ;  the 
total  elevation  of  the  monument  being 
600  feet.  The  temple  is  to  contain 
statues  of  Revolutionary  heroes  and 
relics  of  Washington.  It  is  to  be  sur- 
rounded by  a  colonnade  of  thirty  Doric 
pillars,  with  suitable  entablature  and 
balustrade.  Eaca  State  contributes  a 
block  of  native  stone  or  other  material, 
which  is  to  be  placed  in  the  interior 
walls. 

The  Rationed  Obwrvaiory  is  located 
upon  the  Potomac,  and  is  under  the 
supervision  of  Lieutenant  Maury. 

The  Navy  Yard,  on  the  Eastern 
Branch,  about  three-fourths  of  a  mUe 
south-east  of  the  Capitol,  has  an  area 
of  2*7  acres,  enclosed  by  a  substantial 
brick  wall.  Within  this  enclosure,  be- 
sides houses  for  the  oflBcers,  are  shops, 
and  warehouses,  two  large  ship  houses, 
and  an  armory,  which,  like  the  rest  of 
the  establishment,  is  Icept  in  the  finest 
o  der. — ^The  Navy  Magazine  is  a  large 
10 


brick  structure,  situated  in  the  south- 
east section  of  a  plot  of  70  acres,  the 
property  of  the  United  States,  on  the 
Eastern  Branch. 

The  Congremonai  or  Notional  CetM- 
tery,  is  about  a  mile  east  of  the  Oapi- 
tol, near  the  Anacosta,  or  nuBtern 
branch.  Its  situation  is  high,  and  com- 
mands fine  pictures  of  the  surroun^g 
country. 

The  principal  public  builduigs  of  the 
dty  (not  national),  are  the  City  Hall 
in  North  D  street,  between  Fourth  and 
Fifth  streets;  the  Columbia  College, 
ui  the  immediate  vicinage  of  the  city ; 
the  Medical  College,  and  some  fifty 
church  edifices. 

The  Hotels  and  boarding-houses  are 
numerous,  as  they  of  course  must  be, 
in  a  city,  so  thronged  with  strangers. 
Among  the  leading  establishments  arei 
Browirs,  the  National,  Gadsby's,  Wil- 
lard's,  the  United  States,  the  Irving,  &c. 

The  residents  of  Washington  number 
about  66,000 ;  but  this  estimate  is  greatly 
increased  during  the  sittings  of  Con- 
gress, by  a  very  large  fioatmg  popula- 
tion. 

THE  VICmiTT  OP  "WASHINGTON. 

Qeorgetown  is  so  near  as  to  be  al- 
most part  and  parcel  of  the  Capital. 
It  is  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the 
Potomac,  on  high  and  broken  ground. 
Many  elegant  mansions,  the  residences 
of  some  of  the  foreign  ministers  among 
them,  occupy  the  ''Heights"  of  the 
city.  Oak  Hill  Cemetery  is  a  spot  of 
much  beauty.  An  important  Catholic 
College,  with  both  male  and  female 
schools,  is  located  here.  Population  is 
perhaps  nearly  9,000. 

The  Qxeat  Falls  of  the  Potomao, 
a  scene  of  remarkable  interest,  are  13 
miles  above  Georgetown.  The  Little 
Falls  are  three  miles  away  only.  Wash- 
ington is  to  be  supplied  with  water  by 
an  aqueduct  from  these  falls. 

Alexandria,  Va.,  is  upon  the  banks 
of  the  Potowac,  seven  miles  below  the 
Capital.  It  was  once  within  the  Dis- 
trict of  Columbia,  but  was  retroceded 
to  Virginia  in  1846,  with  all  the  terri- 
tory of  that  State  which  had  been  before 


218 


TIBGINIA. 


Historiod  and  Poetloal  Assoolatloiu. 


li  portion  of  the  national  ground.  The 
population  of  Alexandria  is  about  9,000. 

BIad«aabuzg|  a  small  village  in  Mary- 
land, on  the  eastern  branch  of  the  Poto- 
mac, 6  miles  from  the  Gapitol,  on  the  Bal- 
timore and  Washington  Bailway,  is 
famous  as  the  Congressional  duelling 
ground. 

Mount  Vernon,  sacred  as  the  home 
and  tomb  of  Washington,  is  upon  the 
west  bank  of  the  Potomac,  16  mUes 
below  the  Capital,  and  eight  miles  from 
Alexandria. 

The  old  tomb  which  is  now  fiut  going 
to  decaT|  occupies  a  more  picturesque 
situation  than  the  present  one,  being 
upon  an  elevation  in  full  view  of  the 
river.  The  new  tomb  into  which  the 
remains  were  removed  in  1880,  and 
subsequently  placed  within  a  marble 
sarcophagus,  stands  in  a  more  retired 
situation,  a  short  distance  jfrom  the 
house.    It  consists  of  a  i^ain,  but  solid 


structure  of  brick,  with  an  iron  g*te  at 
its  entrance,  through  the  bars  of  which 
may  be  seen  two  sarcophagi  of  white 
marble,  side  by  side,  in  which  slumber 
in  peaceful  silenco,  the  '*  Father  of  his 
country,"  and  his  amiable  consort. 

The  trouble  of  getting  to  Mount  Ver^ 
mon  is  perhaps  the  greatest  drawback 
in  a  visit  to  the  **tomb  of  Washington^** 
there  being  no  regular  and  expeditious 
conveyance  to  it.  'TIS  true  the  Poto- 
mac steamer  passes  it  on  its  way  from 
Washington  to  the  railroad  terminus 
at  Acquia  Creek,  giving  passengers  a' 
glimpse  of  the  general  view  only.  But 
to  visit  it  at  one's  convenience  it  will 
be  necessary  to  go  from  Washington  to 
Alexandria,  8  miles,  which  is  accom- 
plished by  steamboat,  at  an  expense  of 
twdve  and  a  hilf  cents.  At  the  latter 
place  hire  a  private  conveyance  to 
Mount  Vernon,  7  miles  &rther,  which 
may  cost  perhaps  three  dollars. 


VIRGINIA. 

ViRaixiA,*  in  the  abundance  and  quality  of  her  political  and  romantic  remi- 
niscences and  suggestions,  is  unquestionably  the  laureate  of  our  great  sisterhood 
of  nations.  She  was  born  of  the  most  gulant  and  creative  spirit,  and  in  the 
most  daring  and  chivalrous  days  which  tiie  world  has  ever  known— the  memo- 
rable and  mighty  age  of  Elizabeth — ^herself,  perhaps,  only  the  hard,  ungiving 
flhit,  yet  mi^esticaUy  striking  the  light  of  thought  and  action  from  idl  the 
dormant  genius  and  power,  which  came  within  the  range  of  her  influence.  Our 
queenly  State  grew  up  a  worthy  daughter  of  her  great  parentage ;  and  in  all 
her  history  has  evinced,  as  she  still  perpetuates,  its  noble  spirit.  Her  whole 
story  is  replete  with  musings  for  the  poet,  and  philosophy  for  the  historian. 
What  a  web  of  romance  may  yet  be  woven  from  the  record  of  the  trials  and 
hairbreadth  escapes  of  her  infant  life ;  from  the  first  days  of  the  restless  Raleigh ; 
through  all  the  bold  exploits  of  the  gallant  Smith,  the  troublesome  diplomacy 
of  the  wily  Opecacanough,  the  dangerous  jealousy  of  Powhattan,  the  plots  of 
the  treacherous  Bacon,  to  the  thrilling  drama  of  the  gentle  Indian  princess. 
And  again,  in  olden  days — ^in  the  days  of  border  strife,  of  bold  stp.^^sls  >rith 
the  united  strategy  and  cruelty  of  the  French  intruder,  and  the  revengeful  red- 
skin, she  gives  us  chronicles  which,  while  scarcely  yielding  in  dramatic  interest 
to  the  incidents  of  earlier  periods,  rise  higher  in  the  force  of  moral  teachings ; 
while  yet  again,  onward  and  later,  there  opens  to  us  the,  still  more  thrilling  and 
more  lofty  story  of  her  mature  life,  in  the  proud  deeds  and  grand  results  of  her 
participation  in  our  eventful  Revolution.  The  be-all  and  the  end-all  of  that 
achievement  it  is  not  our  place  now  to  ask.  Much  as  the  world  has  seen,  and 
much  more  as  it  hopes,  of  mighty  consequence,  the  stupendous  efiTect  is  not  yet 


*  The  **Boiiuuioe  of  American  Landscape." 


YntonfXA. 


819 


Eminent  M«n— 'Natonl  BaratlM. 


fUt.  nor  yet  dieamed  of,  perham ;  but,  for  wlwt  ium  o<mM,  and  for  what  iriU  come^ 
to  virgiiua  belongs  much  of  the  gloi7 — ^the  glory  of 'striking  the  first  blow,  by 
uniting  the  coloiues  in  resistance  to  border  encroachment^  while  the  Isist  blow, 
thirty  long  struggling  years  beyond,  fell  also  from  her  ganntleted  hand,  when 
the  conquered  Gornwallls  laid  down  his  shamed  sword  on  the  pUdns  of  Torktown. 
Virginia  then  led  the  soundine  shout  of  freedom  and  empire,  which  has  danced 
in  ^ad  echoes  orer  the  Alleghanies,  skimmed  the  vast  Tidleys  of  the  Mississipid 
and  Uw  prairies  of  the  Great  West,  crossed  the  snow-ohid  peaks  of  the  Rodty 
Ifoiintains,  and  kissed  the  far-ofif  floods  of  the  PMifio— a  shout  which  now,  more 
than  ever,  fills  the  rejoicing  ur,  and  which  must  grow  in  grandeur  and  melody, 
until  it  shall  exalt  and  bless  the  heart  of  all  the  earth. 

Among  the  proudest  boasts  that  Yirginia  may  make,  is  the  extraordinary 
number  of  great  men  which  she  has  given  to  the  nation.  During  half  the  Ufe- 
time  of  the  Republic,  its  highest  office  has  been  conferred  upon  her  sons,  who 
have,  in  turn,  nobly  reflected  back  upon  the  country  the  honors  they  have  re* 
ceived.  Not  only  has  she  been  the  mother  of  many  and  the  greatest  of  our 
Preridents,  but  she  has  reared  leaders  for  our  armies  and  navies,  lawgivers  for 
our  Senates,  judges  for  our  tribunals,  apostles  for  our  pulpits,  poets  for  our 
dosetSj  and  pointers  and  sculptors  for  our  highest  and  most  enduring  delight. 
Scanning  the  map  of  Middle  Virginia,  the  eye  u  continually  arrested  by  hallowed 
8hrine»<-the  birthphMses,  the  homes,  and  the  graves  of  uiose  whom  the  world 
has  most  delighted  to  honor.  Here,  we  pause  within  the  classic  groves  of  Hon* 
ticello,  and  look  abroad  upon  the  scenes  amidst  which  Jefferson  so  profoundly 
studied  and  taught  the  world.  There,  in  the  little  village  of  Hanover,  the  burn- 
ing  words  of  Patrick  Henry  first  awakened  the  glowing  fire  of  liberty  in  the 
bosoms  of  his  countrymen ;  and  here,  too,  the  great  Clay  was  nurtured  in  that 
lofty  spirit  of  patriotism,  from  wMoh  sprung  his  high  and  devoted  public  services. 
Not  far  off,  we  may  bend  agun,  reverently,  over  the  ashes  of  Madison  and  Mon> 
roe,  of  Lee  and  Wirt,  and  of  a  host  of  others,  whom  but  to^mention  would  be  a 
fktignfaig  task. 

Yetlinere  remdns  unspoken,  though  not  forgetfully,  one  other  name,  the  first 
and  greatest — not  of  Virginia  only,  not  of  this  wide  Republic  alone,  but  of  the 
world  itself— a  name  which  may  well,  and  without  other  laurel,  glorify  the  brow 
of  a  nation — ^the  immortal  name  of  Washinoton  i 

It  is  a  pity  that  Virginia,  while  no  less  smgularly  interesting  in  her  physical 
than  in  her  moral  aspect,  has  thus  far  won  so  little  of  the  attention  of  our  land- 
sbapists.  Despite  the  extent  and  variety  of  her  scenery,  from  the  alluvial  plains 
of  the  eastern  dividon,  through  the  picturesque  hills  and  dales  of  the  middle 
region,  onward  to  the  summits  of  the  Blue  Ridee,  with  their  intervening  valleys 
and  mountain  streams  and  water-fallt-  —the  white  cotton  umbrella  of  tiie  artist 
has  scarcely  ever  been  seen  to  temper  its  sunshine,  except  in  a  few  instances  of 

Eirticularly  notable  interest — as  the  Natural  Bridge  and  the  grand  views  near 
arper's  Ferry.  The  landscape  of  Virginia  is  every  where  suggestive ;  and  even 
in  the  least  varied  regions  continually  rises  to  the  beauty  of  a  fine  picture. 
There  are  the  rich  valleys  of  the  James  and  the  Roanoke  Rivers,  said  to  resem- 
ble, in  many  of  their  characteristics,  the  scenery  of  the  Loire  and  the  Garonne ; 
and,  fhr  off  among  the  hills,  are  the  rushing  and  plunging  waters  of  the  great 
Kuiawha,  and  the  beetling  cliffs  of  New  River. 

In  the  very  heart  of  these  natural  delights,  and  superadded  to  all  the  political 
and  historical  associations  at  which  we  have  hinted,  Virginia  attracts  us  by  a 
wealth  of  health-giving  waters,  in  the  form  of  mineral  springs,  in  number  and 
nature  infinite,  where  people  "  go  on  crutches,  looking  dismal,  and  come  away 
on  legs,  with  their  faces  wreathed  in  smiles— go  with  limbs  stiffened  into  pot- 
hook^-and-hangers,  and  leave  endowed  with  a  good  jointurt — go  like  shadows, 


220 


TIBOIinA. 


BtUw»7»— Bl«hmond. 


but  do  not  80  depart."  Ma{ric  Wsten  which,  u  Peregrine  Prolix  says,  according  to 
popular  belief,  cure  yeUow  jaundice,  white  swelling,  olue  dcTiU,  and  black  plague ; 
■oarlet  fever,  spotted  ferer,  and  fever  of  every  kind  and  color ;  hydrocephalus,  hj' 
drothorax,  hydrocele,  and  hydrophobia ;  hypochondria  aitd  hypocrisy ;  dyspepsia, 
diarrhoea,  diabetes,  and  die-of*any>thing;  gout,  eormandizing,  and  grogging; 
liver  complaint,  colic,  and  all  other  diseases  and  bad  habits,  except  eheirinfft 
Mmoking,  epitting  and  ewearing. 

For  your  health  or  pleasure,  dear  traveller,  we  shall  conduct  yon,  anon,  to 
these  high  and  mighty  uu^es  of  Hygiene,  the  Yirj^nia  Springs.  ^ 


BAILWATS  IN  TIBGINIA. 

The  links  of  the  Great  Northern  and 
Southern  route,  from  Acq  lia  Greek,  on 
the  Potomac,  to  IVederioksburg,  15 
miles;  to  Richmond,  60;  to  Peters- 
burg, 22 ;  to  Weldon,  N^O.,  68. 

The  Seaboard  and  Roanoke,  in  the 
south-east  comer  of  the  State,  80 
miles  from  Portsmouth  and  Norfolk  to 
Weldon,  N.  0.,  on  the  New  York  and 
New  Orleans  route. 

The  Richmond  and  Danville  extends 
141  miles  southwest  from  Richmond  to 
Danville,  on  the  North  Carolina  bound- 
ary. 

The  Petersburg  and  Lynchburg  road 
extends  from  Lynchburg,  128  miles,  to 
Petersburg,  on  the  Great  Northern  and 
Southern  line,  and  thence,  10  miles,  to 
City  Point,  on  James  River.  It  inter- 
sects the  Richmond  and  Danville  road, 
about  midway,  at  Burkesville. 

The  Virginia  and  Tenn  see  Railway 
extends  from  Lynchburg,  204  miles,  to 
Bristol,  to  be  continued  to  EnoxvUle, 
Tennessee. 

The  Virginia  Central  Rulway  extends 
westward,  178  miles,  to  Goshen,  pass- 
ing through  Hanover,  Louisa,  Gordons- 
viUe,  Charlottesville,  Staunton,  and 
other  places.  Route  to  the  Virginia 
Springs,  Weir's  Cave,  etc. 

The  Orange  and  Alexandria  Rulway, 
from  Alexandria,  D.C.,  to  Gordonsville, 
88  miles.  Station*. — ^Alexandria  to 
Sprin^eld,  9  miles;  Burke's,  14; 
Fairfax,  17 ;  Union  Mills,  28 ;  Manas- 
«iM,  27  (junction  of  Manassus  Gap 
Road) ;  Bristol,  31 ;  Weaversville,  88 ; 
Warrenton  Junction,  41  (Branch  nine 
miles  to  Warrenton) ;  Culpepper,  C.  H., 


62;  Orange,  0.  H.,  79;  Gordonsville, 
88 ;  unites  with  the  Virginia  Central. 

Manassus  Ch&p,  from  luinassns  (Orange 
and  Alexandria  road)  88  miles  to  Stras- 
bure. 

Winchester  and  Potomac  Raflway, 
82  miles  from  Winchester  to  Harpers 
Ferry  (Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad). 

Roanoke  Valley  road,  22  miles,  from 
Clarksville  to  Ridgewi^,  on  the  Raleigh 
and  Gaston  Railway,  N.  0. 

The  North  Western  Railway  (north- 
west, comer  of  the  State)  extends 
from  Grafton,  on  the  line  of  the  Balti- 
more and  Ohio  road,  to  Parkersburg, 
on  the  Ohio  River. 

The  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railway,  897 
miles  from  Baltimore  to  Wlieeling,  is 
partly  in  Maryland  and  partly  in  Virgi- 
nia. It  follows  the  route  of  the  Potomac 
River,  the  dividing  line  for  a  long  way 
between  the  two  States.  See  Maryland 
for  Airther  account  of  this  road. 


Bichmond,  the  capital  of  the  "  Old 
Donunion,"  as  Virginia  is  fiuniliaily 
ci^ed,  is  in  the  eastern  part  of  the 
P  ate,  directly  on  the  line  of  the  great 
rxilway  mail  route  from  New  England 
tu  New  Orleans,  through  Boston,  New 
York,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  Wash- 
ington, Charleston,  and  other  cities, 
about  100  miles  in  a  straight  line  south 
by  west  of  Washington,  from  which 
city  it  is  reached  by  steamboat  down 
the  Potomac  River  to  Acquia  Creek, 
and  thence  through  Frederickiiburg  by 
railway,  or,  more  leisurely,  from  Balti- 
more and  from  Philadelphia,  every 
Wednesday  and  Saturday,  and  from 
New  York  every  Saturday,  by  steamer, 
outside  sea  voyage,  except  from  Balti- 


VIBOnflA. 


SSI 


Slohiaond— Tlw  OftpltoL 


more,  whence  the  way  leads  down  the 
Ohenapeake  Bay,  and  then  (as  from  New 
York  and  Philadelphia)  up  the  Jam«s 
River. 

Richmond,  ae  first  seen  approaching, 
by  the  river,  is  a  city  seated  on  a  hill, 
says  a  traveller,  and  has  the  imposing 
aspect  of  a  large  and  populous  capital. 
It  owes  this,  its  first  dignity,  in  some 
measure  to  the  happy  and  elevated  po- 
sition of  its  Oapitol,  which  stands  on 
Shockhoe  Hill,  and  aJar  off  has  a  hand- 
some  and  classical  appearance;  when, 
however,  you  approach  within  criticis- 
ing distance,  it  loses  some  of  that  en- 
cuntment  which  distance  ever  lends 
the  view.  Though  Richmond  is  not  a 
great  cafdtal,^  it  is,  nevertherless,  -a 
flourishing  and  interesting  city,  and 
now  prol^bly  contains  nearly  88,000 
inhabitants,  two-thirds  of  this  number 
being  white,  and  the  rest  black,  free  or 
slave.  It  has  been  the  scene  of  some 
historical  events  of  great  dignity  and 
importance.  The  Capitol  stands — ^we 
atiU  quote  the  traveller,  whose  words 
we  have,  with  some  variation,  used 
in  the  last  sentences— on  an  elevated 
plain,  near  the  brow  of  Shockoe  Hill, 
and  its  front  looks  towards  the  valley 
of  James  lUver,  and  over  the  compact 
part  of  Richmond.  The  view  from  the 
portico  is  extensive,  various,  and  beau- 
tiful. It  is  a  GriBco- American  building, 
having  a  portico  at  one  end  consisting 
of  a  colonnade,  entablature,  and  pedi- 
ment, whose  apicial  angle  is  rather  too 
acute.  There  are  windows  on  all  sides, 
and  doors  on  the  two  longer  sides,  which 
are  reached  by  high  and  unsightly 
double  flights  of  steps  placed  sidewise, 
under  which  are  other  doors  leading  to 
the  basement. 

Entering  by  one  of  the  upper  doors, 
an  entry  leads  to  a  square  hail  in  the 
centre  of  the  building,  surmounted  by 
a  dome  which  transmits  light  from 
above.  The  Hall  is  about  forty  feet 
square,  and  about  twenty-five  above 
the  floor;  has  a  gallery  running  round 
it,  in  which  are  nine  doors,  communi- 
catinewith  various  apartments.  There 
are  eight  niches  in  the  walls,  in  one  of 
which  is  a  marble  bust  of  La  Fayette. 


Virginia  could  now,  easily  and  honora- 
bly, fill  six  of  the  remaining  seven. 
Patrick  Henry/Thomas  JelTerson,  James 
Madison,  James  Monroe,  John  Ran- 
dolph,* and  JohnMarshaUf  would  almost 
complete  the  octave. 

In  the  centre  of  the  square  hall  above 
described,  there  is  a  marble  statue  of 
OEOROE  WASHINGTON,  on  which 
the  sculptor's  legend  reads:  "Faiipat 
Houdon  CUojfen  IVanpaiB^  1*788." 

The  statue  is  mounted  on  a  rectau' 
gular  pedestal,  four  and  a  half  feet  high, 
on  one  of  the  larger  sides  of  which  is 
the  following  honest  and  affiBCtionate 
inscription : 

"The  Ctonenl  Assembly  of  the  Common- 
utealth  of  Tirginls,  have  caused  this  statue  to 
be  erected,  as  a  monument  of  aflbetlon  aad 
gratitade  to 

GSOBOS  WASHINGTON; 

who,  uniting  to  the  endowments  of  the  Hero 
the  virtues  of  the  Patriot,  and  exerting  both 
in  establishing  the  liberties  of  his  Coantrj, 
has  rendered  hia  name  dear  to  his  Fellow 
CItlsens,  and  giren  the  world  an  immortal  ex- 
ample of  true  Glory.   Done  in  the  year  at 

CHBIBT 

One  Thousand  Seven  Hundred  and  Eightr- 
Elght,  and  In  the  Year  of  the  Ck>mmonwealth 
the  TweMlh." 

The  simplicity,  dignity,  and  truth  of 
that  inscription  are  worthy  of  the  great 
original  commemorated,  and  of  the 
young  and  chivalric  State,  whose  ready 
gratitude  so  early  erected  this  lasting 
monument,  and  overfiowed  in  language 
so  beautiful  and  appropriate. 

The  statue  (like  the  inscription)  is  an 
honest  Christian  statue,  and  is  decently 
clad  in  the  uniform  worn  by  an  Ameii- 
can  General  during  the  Revolution,  and 
not  half  covered  by  the  semi-barbarous 
and  pagan  toga,  with  throat  uncovered 
and  naked  arm,  as  if  prepared  for  the 
barber  and  the  bleeder.  It  is  of  the 
size  of  life,  and  stands  resting  on  the 
right  foot,  having  the  left  somewhat 
advanced,  with  the  knee  bent.  The  left 
hand  rests  on  a  bundle  of  fasces,  on 
which  hang  a  military  cloak  and  a 
small  sword,  and  against  which  leans  a 
plough.  The  feet  are  plunged  in  whole 
boots,  which  are  strapped  to  the  knee- 


SS3 


TntOINIA. 


BldnBond. 


trattOM  of  the  lHre«che^  which  are  lur- 
mount«d  bj  ul  old-fhahumcd  waiitooat, 
fortified  with  deep  flaprand  moit  oapt- 
doufl  pockets.  MlUtaiy  man  defend 
the  heeli,  and  a  capital  pur  of  Wood- 
stock gloves  the  hands.  The  head 
wears  no  hat,  and  has  the  hair  in  the 
flMhion  of  fortr  years  ago,  and  looks 
Jnst  like  his,  when  he  raised  his  hat  in 
answer  to  the  salutation  of  some  hnm- 
ble  feUow-citisen  encountered  in  his 
morning  walk  in  Ohestnnt  street  The 
attitude  is  natural  and  easy,  and  the 
likeness  to  the  great  origind  is  strons. 

The  same  generous  and  patriotic 
S]4rit  which  so  early  enriched  Virginia 
irith  this  fkmous  work  of  Houdon,  will 
soon  be  yet  more  strildngly  seen,  in 
the  grand  bronze  sculpti^s  from  the 
attlier  of  the  eminent  American  artist, 
Crawford,  which  are  to  be  erected  upon 
tiie  noble  terrace-height  surrounding 
the  Gai^tol.  This  new  and  magnificent 
contribution  of  Virginia  to  the  art  of 
the  country,  will  be  a  colossal  equestrian 
statue  of  Washington,  elevated  upon  a 
grand  pedestal  or  base,  which  will  be 
embellished  with  historic  scenes  in  bas- 
relief,  and  supported  at  each  angle  by 
statues  of  other  illustrious  sons  of  the 
State. 

Besides  the  Capitol,  the  City  Hall, 
the  Penitentiary,  the  Custom  House, 
are  note-worthy  edifices.  The  CSty  Hall 
is  an  elegant  structure,  at  an  angle  of 
the  Capitol  Square;  the  Penitentiary 
has  a  fkfade  of  800  feet,  near  the  river, 
in  the  west  suburb  of  the  city.  The 
estimated  cost  of  the  Custom  House  is 
nearly  half  a  million  of  dollars. 

Among  the  churches  of  Richmond, 
over  80  m  number,  is  some  architectu- 
ral skill  worth  observing.  The  Monu- 
mental Church  (EiHscopal)  stands  where 
once  stood  the  Theatre,  so  disastrously 
burned  in  1811,  at  the  sad  sacrifice  of 
the  life  of  the  Governor  of  the  State, 
and  more  than  sixty  others  of  the  ill- 
&ted  audience  in  the  building  at  the 
time. 

Rxekmond  CoUeffe,  here,  was  founded 
by  the  Baptfnts  in  1882.  St.  Vineetie» 
Cofleffe  is  under  the  direction  of  the 
Catholics.    The  Medical  Department  of 


Hampden  and  Sydner  College,  wMh 
lishea  in  1888,  occupies  an  attraetive 
building  of  Egyptian  architecture. 

The  Rai^ds  or  Falb  of  James  River, 
which  extend  six  mOea  above  the  dty, 
and  have  a  descent  of  80  feet,  aflRord 
valuable  water  power.  The  navigation 
of  the  river  is  opened  above  the  dty  by 
the  assistance  of  a  canal  which  over^v 
comes  the  rapids.  The  city  is  supplied 
with  water  from  the  river,  by  means  of 
fordng^mps,  which  (yimish  three  re- 
servoirs of  1,000,000  of  gallons  each. 
Richmond  is  connected  by  mree  bri«^l.<i<es 
with  Manchester  and  Spring  HiH. 

The  railway  system,  of  which  liich* 
mond  has  become  the  centre,  is  addhig 
daily  to  its  extent  and  wealth.  The 
Richmbnd  and  Petersburg  Railroad  is 
its  first  route  southward  on  the  great 
Northern  and  Southern  tranrit,  and  the 
line  from  Fredericksburg  the  "first  to 
the  northward.  The  Central  Railway, 
after  leaving  the  fity,  makes  a  long 
excursion  to  the  nor.i ,  and  then  turns 
westward  into  the  in:;erior  of  the  State 
—the  region  of  the  ftmous  Springs. 
It  is  completed  already  1*78  miles  to 
Goshen,  via  Gordonsville,  Chariottesville 
and  Staunton,  and  it  is  to  be  continued 
through  the  State  to  Guyandotte  on 
the  Ohio  River.  This  is  a  fine  route, 
from  the  West  or  from  the  East  to  the 
Springs,  to  Weir's  Cave,  and  other 
wonders  of  Virginia. 

The  lUchmond  and  Danville  Raflway 
runs  south>west  141  miles,  to  the  u|^r 
boundary  of  North  Carolina ;  and  con- 
nects with  the  railways  of  Tennessee, 
Georgia,  and  the  Carolinas.  The  city 
is  connected  with  Lynchburg  by  rail- 
way and  thence  by  the  Virginia  and 
Tennessee  line  (through  all  the  southern 
part  of  the  State)  with  Knoxville,  Ten- 
nessee. This  last  route  is  completed 
(as  we  write)  204  miles  from  Lynchburg 
south-west  to  Bristol. 

The  James  River  and  the  Kanawha 
Canal  extends  westward  between  200 
and  800  miles. 

Richmond  is  the  great  d£p6t  for  the 
famous  tobacco  product  of  Viiginia. 
It  makes  also  large  exports  of  wheat 
and  flour. 


TIBAIinA* 


8S8 


Noifclk— Petonboq^— Hupw^t  Fcrrjr,  eto. 


aUractiT* 
store, 
aei  RiTer, 
6  the  dty, 
bet,  aflbrd 
n»Ti|(atioii 
ibe  dty  by 
hioh  orer-^ 
la  BoppUed 
J  mcMU  of 
\  throe  re* 
Qonfl  euoh. 
ree  bfi«'l.<i<ee 
HIH. 

bieh  Rkc?i* 
I,  ii  adding 
lalth.  The 
Kaihvad  is 
the  ffveat 
lit,  and  the 
he  "fimt  to 
il  Railway, 
Jces  a  long 
then  turns 
>f  the  State 
u  Springs. 
8  miles  to 
irlottesville 
)  continued 
andotte  on 
fine  route, 
East  to  the 
and  other 

lie  RaHway 
>  the  upper 
, ;  and  con- 
Tennessee, 
.  The  city 
pg  by  rail- 
irginia  and 
le  Bonthem 
KTiUe,  Ten- 
completed 
Lynchburg 

Kanawha 
tween  200 

)At  for  the 
Virginia, 
of  wheat 


MoxfollL  Portnaoiitli  and  Ooaport. 
From  Baltimore  daily,  by  steamboat 
down  Obesapeake  Bay.  From  lUoh- 
mond,  by  steamer  down  James  Rirer. 
From  Weldon,  N.  0.,  (on  the  great 
Northern  and  Southern  Bdlway  route,) 
by  the  Seaboard  and  Roanoke  Railway 
80  miles,  and  from  Phikdelphia  and 
New  York  direct  by  regular  lines  of 
steamers  on  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 

Norfolk  is  upon  the  Elisabeth  lUver, 
eight  miles  from  Hampton  Roads,  and 
82  miles  firom  the  ocean.  It  has  some 
17,000  inhabitants,  and  is,  after  Rich- 
mond, the  most  populous  city  In  Vir- 
ginia, A  canal  comes  in  here  through 
the  Dismal  Swamp.    Norfolk  is  a  very 

Kleasant  town,  irregularly  built  upon  a 
irel  plain. 

The  Harbor  is  large,  safe  and  easily 
accessible,  defended  at  its  entrance  by 
Forta  Monroe  and  Calhoun.  It  is  a 
great  market  for  wild  fowl,  oysters, 
poultry  and  Tegetables. 

The  city  was  laid  out  in  1706.  In 
1776  it  was  burnt  by  the  British.  In 
1855  it  was  visited  by  the  ybllow  fever, 
which  carried  off  several  hundreds  of  its 
inhabitants. 

Mr.  G.  P.  R.  James,  the  distingidshed 
EngUsh  novelist,  resides  here,  in  the 
capacity  of  British  Consul. 
-  Portsmouth,  directly  opposite  Nor- 
folk, is  a  naval  d^pOt  of  the  United 
States.  In  the  Navy  Yard  upwards  of 
1,000  men  are  employed.  The  build- 
ing occupied  by  the  U.  S.  Naval  Hos- 
pital is  an  imposing-looking  affair  of 
brick,  stuccoed.  The  Seaboard  and 
Roanoke  Railway  comes  in  at  Ports- 
mouth from  Weldon,  N.  C.  Ferry  boats 
ply  between  the  town  and  Norfolk. 
Oosport  lies  just  below.  The  United 
States  Dry  Dock  at  this  suburb,  is  a 
work  of  great  extent  and  interest. 

P«ton1inzg,  the  thurd  town  m  Vir- 
ginia in  population  (about  16,000),  is 
a  port  of  entry  situated  on  the  Appo- 
mattox lUver,  distant  by  railway  from 
Richmond  22  miles,  firom  Fredericks- 
burg 82  miles,  from  Washington  City  162 
miles.  It  is  on  the  great  route  from 
New  York  to  Charleston  and  New  'Or- 
leans.   The  South  %de  Railway  comes 


4- 


in  here  flrom  Lynchburg,  188  miles  dis- 
tant. The  Appomattox  Road  connects 
Peteraburff  with  CHty  Point,  10  miles 
away,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Appomat- 
tox into  the  James  River.  The  roman- 
tic ruins  of  the  old  church  of  Bkndford 
are  within  the  limito  of  this  borough. 

AUmandria  is  upon  the  Potomac 
lUver,  seven  miles  below  Washington 
City  by  steam  ferry.  The  Orange  and 
Alexandria  RidUiway  extends  hence  88 
miles  to  OordonsvUle,  and  the  Man- 
assus  Gap  Road  88  mUes  to  Strasbura. 
This  city,  until  retrooeded  to  Virginh 
by  the  ffeneral  jgovemment,  was  inclu- 
ded in  the  District  of  Columbia. 

Ebap«v*i  F«rnr  is  on  the  line  of 
the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railway,  82 
miles  from  .Baltimore  Citv.  The  Win- 
chester and  Potomac  Railway  conneote 
it  with  Winchester,  82  miles  distant. 
This  place,  famous  for  ita  beautifhl 
scenery,  is  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Potomac  and  the  Shenandoah  JUvera. 
Thismeetinff.of  the  waters  is  immedi- 
ately after  their  passage  through  a  gap 
of  tiie  Blue  lUdge,  which  was  thought 
by  Jefferson  to  be  "  one  of  the  most 
stupendous  scenes  in  nature,  and  well 
worth  a  voyage  across  the  Atlantic  to 
witness."  The  place  was  formerly  called 
Shenandoah  Fdls.  A  National  Armory, 
employing  several  hundred  hands,  is 
located  here.  See  Baltimore  and  Ohio 
Railway. 

Winoheitar  is  114  miles  from  Bal- 
timore and  82  from  Harper's  Ferry  by 
the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  and  the  Win- 
chester and  Potomac  Railways.  It  is 
in  the  midst  of  a  pleasant  and  pictu- 
resque country  in  the  north-eastern  part 
of  the  State,  west  of  the  Blue  Ridge 
and  within  the  limhs  of  the  great  vu- 
ley  of  Virginia. 

TIm  Ruina  of  Jamoatown.  This 
spot,  in  its  history  one  .of  the  most 
romantic  on  the  continent,  is  upon  an 
island  near  the  north  bank  of  the  James 
River,  82  miles  above  its  entrance  into 
Chesapeake  Bay,  passed  in  the  voyage 
from  Baltimore  to  Richmond.  The 
traveller  must  not  neglect  the  oppor- 
tunity to  recall  its  varied  story  of  the 
early  colonial  adventures  and  sufferings 


8f;4 


TISOINIA. 


Fradcrtoluborf— TlM  Blrthplaoe  of  WMhington. 


Harper's  Ferrjr,  Yirginta. 


—the  gallantry  of  Captain  John  Smith, 
and  the  gentle  devotion  of  the  Indian 
Princees  Pocahontas.  Its  revolutionary 
history,  too,  may  be  recalled  with  in- 
terest; its  battle  fields  of  1781 — and 
many  other  memorable  localities  and 
material  remembrances  of  all  the  tra- 
ditionary  past — in  the  ruins  of  its  an- 
cient church  and  other  relics  which  time 
has  not  yet  quite  obliterated. 

Fredariokabiirg  is  on  the  line  of 
railways  from  New  York  to  New  Or- 
leans, 70  miles  below  Washington  City 
and  60  miles  above  Richmond.  It  is 
an  agreeable  ancient-looking  town,  sit- 
uated in  a  fertile  valley  on  the  banks 
of  the  Rappahannock  River. 

The  Blrthplaoe  of  Washington. 
It  was  in  the  vicinity  of  Fredericksburg 
that  Washington  was  born,  and  here 
hc)  passed  his  early  years ;  and  here, 
too,     reposC)    beneath    an   unfinUhed 


monument,  the  remabs  of  his  honored 
mother. 

The  birthplace  of  the  Father  of  bis 
country  is  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
junction  of  Pope's  Creek  with  the  Po- 
tomac, in  Westm<)Riland  countv.  It  is 
upon  the  "  Wakefield  estate,'*  now  in 
the  possession  of  John  E.  Wilson,  Esq. 
The  house  in  which  the  great  patriot 
was  born,  was  destroyed  before  the 
Revolution.  It  was  a  plain  VTrginia 
farm-house  of  the  better  class,  with  four 
rooms  and  an  enormous  chimney,  on  the 
outtide,  at  each  end.  The  spot  where 
it  stood  is  now  marked  by  a  slab  of 
freestone,  which  was  deposited  by 
George  W.  P.  Custis,  Esq,,  in  the  pres- 
ence of  other  gentlemen,  in  June,  1816. 
'*  Desirous,"  says  Mr.  Custis,  in  a  letter 
on  the  subject  to  Mr.  Lossing,  "of 
making  the  ceremonial  of  depositing 
the  stone  as  imposing  as  circumstances 


TIBOUnA. 


896 


IIlBtor<'^1  MfliBorlM  of  f  radwrlelubarf— Habotw  mhI  WIlllMiMbnrg. 


woald  permit,  we  enveloped  it  in  the 
*  Star-Spengled  Banner '  ot  our  country, 
end  it  WM  borne  to  iti  retting-plaoe 
in  the  arms  of  the  deaoendanta  of  four 
reTolutionarjr  patrioti  and  aoldlera.  *  * 
We  gathered  together  the  briclce  of  the 
ancient  chimney,  which  once  fortned 
the  hearth  around  which  Washington, 
in  hii  infancy,  had  played — and  con« 
Btructed  a  rode  kind  of  pedeital,  on 
which  we  rererently  placed  the  First 
Stone,  comniendinff  it  to  the  respect 
and  proteetloB  of  the  American  people 
in  general,  Mid  of  thoee  of  Westmore* 
land  in  pwtionlar.'*  On  the  tablet  is 
this  simue  Inscription — "Hcbe,    thi 

11th  of  jhHiraABT(0.  8.)lt82,  OlOBOl 

Washinoion  was  Borm.'* 

TIm  tjumh  off  tlw  BlothMr  of 
WMhinflea.  The  remains  of  the 
mother  of  Washington  repose  in  the 
immediate  vlelnage  of  Fredericksburg, 
on  the  spot  which  she  herself,  years  be- 
fore her  death,  selected  for  her  grsTe, 
and  to  which  she  was  wont  to  retire  for 
private  and  devotional  thought.  It  is 
marked  by  an  unfinished  yet  still  im- 
posine  monument.  The  corner  stone 
of  thu  sacred  structure  was  laid  by 
Andrew  Jackson,  President  of  the 
United  States  at  the  time,  on  the  7th  of 
May,  1838,  in  the  presence  of  a  grand 
concourse,  and  with  most  solemn  cere- 
monial. After  the  lapse  of  idmost  a 
quarter  of  a  century  the  monument  re- 
mains still  unfini{|hed. 

The  mother  of  Washington  resided, 
during  the  latter  part  of  her  life,in  Frede- 
ricksburg, near  the  spot  where  she  now 
lies  buried.  The  house  of  her  abode, 
occupied  of  late  days  by  Richard 
Stirling,  Esq.,  is  on  the  comer  of 
Gharies  and  Lewis  streets.  It  was  here 
that  her  last  but  memorable  interview 
with  her  illustrious  son  took  place, 
when  she  was  bowed  down  with  age 
and  disease. 

Hanovvr  Ooort  House,  memorable 
as  the  scene  of  Patrick  Henry's  early 
triumphs,  and  as  the  birthplace  of 
Henry  Clay,  is  near  the  Pamumky 
River,  and  20  miles  above  Richmond. 
The  Great  Southern  Railway  passes 
close  by. 

10* 


Tho  Blrthplaoo  of  B«ury  Oimj  ii 

between  three  and  four  miles  from 
Hanover  Court  House,  on  the  right  of 
the  turnpike  road  to  Richmond.  Tb« 
flat,  piny  refrion,  in  which  it  is  situated, 
is  called  the  Slashes  of  Hanover ;  hence 
the  popular  »obriqu$t  familiarlv  applied 
to  the  great  sUtesman,  of  the  "  MiiU 
boy  of  ty  Shwhes.*'  The  house  is  • 
little,  one-story,  frame  building,  with 
dormer  windows,  and  a  Urge  ouUitU 
chimney  (after  the  universal  fashion  of 
Southern  country-houses)  at  each  gable. 
In  this  humble  tenement  the  Immortal 
Senator  was  bom,  in  1777. 

PKteiek  EtowwHi  Baily  TMvmphi 
«t  BaaowMr.  B[anover  awakens  pleas- 
ant memories  In  its  stories  of  the  patri- 
otic ardor  of  Patrick  Henry  assemblins 
his  volunteers  and  marching  to  Wil 
liamsburg  to  demand  the  restoration  of 
the  powder  which  Lord  Dunmore  had 
removed  from  the  public  magaiine,  or 
payment  therefor — a  daring  demand, 
which  he  soeeeeded  in  enforcing,  as, 
the  Governor,  aUrmed  at  the  strength 
of  his  cortege,  which  grew  as  he  went 
along  to  IM  in  number,  sent  out  the 
Recmver^eneral  with  audiority  to  com- 
promise the  matter.  The  young  leader 
required  and  obtdned  the  value  of  the 
powder,  880  pounds,  and  sent  it  to  the 
TreasuiT,  at  WUlismsburg.  This  in- 
cident happened  at  Newcastle,  once 
a  prosperous  viUage,  but  now  a  rain, 
with  a  single  house  only  on  its  site,  a 
few  miles  below  Hanover  Court  House, 
on  the  Pamumky  River. 

WUUanuilNUgi  the  oldest  incorpo- 
rated town  in  Virginia,  and  a  place  of 
extreme  interest  in  its  historical  associ- 
ations, is  built  upon  a  plain,  betwecQ 
the  Tork  and  James  River,  six  miles 
firom  each.  This  was  the  seat  of  the 
Colonial  Government  anterior  to  the 
Revolution,  and  the  Capital  of  the  State 
until  1779.  William  and  Mary  College 
— ^the  oldest  educational  establishment 
in  the  United  States,  after  Harvard 
Univerdty — is  located  here. 

SUtne  Of  Iford  Botetourt  Of  the 
numerous  mementoes  of  the  past  which 
this  venerable  town  contuns,  the  most 
interesting  aro  to  be  found  in  the  maip 


■treet,  a  broad,  pleasantly  shaded,  and 
rural-looking  atenue.  in  the  centre 
of  the  lawn,  fronting  the  edifice  of 
the  Ck>llege,  is  a  mutilated  statue 
of  Lord  Botetourt,  one  of  the  most 
popular  of  the  old  colonial  govemors. 
This  statue  was  placed  in  its  present 
.position  in  1797. 

Palace  of  Xidrd  DdiiiiiorBi  The 
remains  of  thb  ancient  hnilding,  the 
home  of  the  last  of  the  royal  governors 
pf/Virgioda,  is  at  the  headof  a  pleasant 
broad  court,  extending  from  the  Main' 
itreet  in  front  of  the  my  HftH    It  w«» 


built  of  brick.  The  tSbntre  Edifice  was 
accidentaUjr  destroyed  by  fite,  while 
occupied  by  the  French  sdldiertf,  just 
after  the  surrender  of  Obrhwaihs  at 
TorktowD.  Here  th^  stately  old  Got* 
emor  lived,  or  attempted  to  live,  in 
royal  splendor.  All  tliat  no#  remains 
of  his  pomp  are  the  two  littie6iit-build> 
ings  or  ?dng8  of  his  ^lace,  yet  to  be 
seen  by  the  vintOT  at  WiUiamsbnig. 

Brwtim  Ohurchj  a  venerate  edifice 
of  the  early  part  of  the  1^  century, 
stands  on  the  public  square,  nearPalftoe 
street  or  Court.  It  is  a  cruciform 
building,  surmounted  with  a  Bteejde. 

'ThoOld  BCagaxliie.  On  the  same 
area  as  Brenton  Church,  is  an  old  mag- 
azine, an  octagonal  edifice,  built  during 
the  administration  of  Oovernor  Spotts- 
wood. 

The  Old  Oapitol  stood  on  the  site 
of  the  present  Court  House,  on  the 
Square,  opposite  theMagasine.    It 


ii^' 


t 


TXBonnA. 


88t 


Torktown. 


'AV' 


^  «>% 


Ufloewaa 
«,  while 
ierS,jtist 
waltis  «t 
old  Gov- 
Uvc,  in 
remains 
ifUt'build- 
et  to  be 
ibnrg. 
e  ediltoe 
century, 
sarPtlftoe 
iradform 
eeple. 
the  same 
old  mag- 
It  during 
)r  8potts> 

the  site 
on  the 


destroyed  by  fire  in  1882.  A  few  of 
the  old  arches  lie  yet  around  half  buried 
in  the  greensward.  It  was  in  the  "  Old 
CapitoP  that  the  Burgesses  of  Yir^nia 
were  assembled,  when  Patrick  Henry, 
the  youngest  member  of  that  body, 
presented  the  series  of  bold  resolutions, 
which  led  to  his  fiunous  speech—"  Gtesar 
had  his  Brutus,  Charles  the  first  his 
Cromwett,  «iid  George  the  Third '^•— 
oonohided  by  those  master-words  of  rail- 
!eiy,  when  the  excited  assembly  inter- 
rupted him  with  the  cry  of  "  Treason  I 
treasonl  **  -»**  may  profit  by  their  ez- 
an^ple.  If  this  be  treason  make  the 
most  of  it!** 

I%«  Apollo  Soom  of  the  RaUigh 
Tuvttn  is  an  apartment  in  another  time- 
honcu^  <dd  building  of  l/niliamsburg, 
in  #l!^  liie  House  of  Bureesses  assem- 
l4ed1i4pBsider  the  Bevolutionary  moTc- 
lanR^^plfc^h  were  then  passing  in  Mas- 
BaehiJHiilll;  This  assembly  had  just  been 
disioi^  by  the  Royal  Governor^  in 
.coniiilifi^o  of  its  pawage  of  acts  in  op- 
pofimiiMR  these  of  the  Lords  and  CJom- 
meili^^PBgland  just  before  received, 
llie  i^«M|eai'«  Bangers,  commanded  by 
Lieat(MUttl|^<!olonel  Bmcoe,  entered 
"Vl^lllamsbttrg,  driving  out  the  Yiwinia 
militia,  on  tiie  stormy  night  of  April 
10th,  1781. 

The  thoughtfiil  traveller  will  delight 
himself  by  recalUng  other  incidento  in 
the  history  of  the  localities  we  have 

E-esented  to  his  notice,  and  in  follow- 
g  the  course  of  the  great  train  of 
events,  which  resulted  firom  or  were  con- 
nected with  them. 

WiUiam  and  Mary  Oolltge,  at  Wil- 
Hamsburg,  as  we  have  said  already,  the 
oldest  establishment  of  the  Idnd  m  the 
Union,  «(ter  Harvard  University,  was 
founded  in  1692.  Ita  library  numbers 
between  6,000  and  6,000  volumes,  and 
it  has  usually  in  attendance  from  160 
to  200  studenta. 

lh$  Ea$tem  Lunatie  Atylum  of  Fir- 
ginia  is  at  Williamsburg. 

Torktowii — ^memorable  as  the  scene 
of  that  closing  event  in  the  American 
Revolution,  the  surrender  of  the  British 
army,  under  Lord  Gornwallis — is  upon 
ihe  York  BiTttr,  11  miles  from  ita  en- 


trance  into  Chesapeake  Bay,  70  miles 
east«outh-east  of  Richmond,  and  about 
12  miles  from  WilUamsburs;.  It  was 
formerly  a.  flourishing  towii,  but  is  now 
reduced  to  the  character  of  a  "  Deserted 
Village,"  with  only  40  or  6Cl  houses,  aU 
told. 

'  All  the  region  of  Williamsburg,  Tork- 
town, and  toe  surrounding  country  of 
Eastern  Yirnnia,  so  thickly  strewn  with 
memories  of  thrilling  and  eventful  in- 
cidents in  the  history  of  the  American 
Revolution,  is  for  the  most  part,  a  peace- 
ful, level,  pastoral  land,  of  piny  woods 
and  grassy  meadows ;  yet  the  village  of 
Torktown  is  built  upon  a  high  blim^  on 
either  dde  of  which  is  a  deep  ravine. 

At  the  time  of  the  &moqs  siege,  in 
1781,  the  town  contained  about  60 
houses.  Li  1814  it  was  desolated  again 
by  fire,  and  h«s  never  rince  recovered 
ita  former  activity. 

RenMMu  of  the  JntmuAmotttt  cast  up 
by  the  British  on  the  south  and  east 
tides  of  the  town,'are  yet  to  be  seen. 
These  momids  vary  from  12  to  16  feet 
in  hdgbt,  and  extend,  in  broken  lines, 
from  the  river  bank  to  the  doping 
grounds  back  of  the  viUage. 

OomteaiU^*  Oem  is  an  ezoitvation 
in  the  bluH^  upon  which  the  village 
stands,  reputed  to  have  been  made  and 
used  by  Lord  ComwalUs  aa  a  council 
chamber  during  the  siege.  It  Is  exhib- 
ited with  this  character  for  a  small  fee. 
A  quarter  of  a  mile  below  this  cave  there 
is  another,  whTch  there  is  good  reason  to 
believe  really  was  thus  occupied  by  the 
English  commander. 

m»s»  of  Torktown.  On  the  1st  of 
September,  1781,  portiops  of  ihe  British 
army  proceeded  up  the  Tork  River, 
from  the  Chescpeake  Bay ;  and,  on  the 
22d,  Lord  Comwallis,  with  his  entire 
force  of  7,000  men,  arrived,  and  began 
his  fortifications.  He  constructed  a  Une 
of  works  entirely  around  the  village, 
and  across  the  peninsula  of  Oloueester 
in  ita  rear;  betides  some  field-works 
same  distance  off.  He  was  speedilv 
met  by  the  American  and  Frencn 
troops,  which  came  in  to  the  number 
of  12,000;  and  was  fit  the  same  time 
blockaded  by  the  IVenob  ships  at  the 


9SB 


YIROIKIA. 


I^ynoh^HU^p— Lasdagtoii — Otanlottesrine— Montloello. 


mouth  of  the  river.  The  final  result  wu 
A  geneiml  engaftement,  whi<;h  resulted, 
on  ihe  17th  m  October,  in  a  request 
from  Lord  Gomwallis  for  a  cessation  of 
ho'''i!Hties,  and  in  the  total  surrender  of 
bis  wmjy  on  the  morning  of  the  19th. 

Tnt:  precise-spot,  at  Torktown,  where^ 
the  scene  of  the  surrender  of  the  British 
arms  and  standards  took  phuse,  will  be 
pointed  out  to  the  inquiring  vi^or. 
This  great  event  is  the  theme  of  one  of 
Colonel  Trumbull's  pictures  in  the  Bo- 
tunda  of  th«  Oai^tol  at  WasbingtoxL 

l^yofAibatg  u  a  prosperous  friaoe  on 
the  James  Kver,  by  railway  from  Rich- 
mond 124  miles,  from  Petersburg  188 
miles.  The  Tirginia  and  Tennessee  Rail- 
way, extending  hence  westward  to  the 
railways  of  Tennessee  and  other  western 
and  south-western  routes,  is  in  operation 
at  present  204  miles  to  Bristol.  The 
James  lUver.  and  Kanawha  Canal,  fol- 
lowing the  course  of  the  river  from 
Biohinond,  passes  Lynchburg  on  its  way 
to  Buchanan  and  Covington. 

Lynchburg  is  on  the  route  to  and  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Spring 
re^on.  The  Natural  Bridge  and  the 
peaks  of  Otter  are  here  euily  acces- 
sible. 

Igsadafton  is  chsarmingly  situated  in 
the  mountain  and  spring  rej^on  of 
Western  Virginia,  85  miles  north-west 
of  Lynchburg,  and  169  from  Richmond, 
by  raUway  to  Lynchburg,  and  thence 
by  stage.  Washington  College  here, 
was  founded  in  1*798,  and  was  endowed 
by  General  Washington.  The  Virginia 
Military  Institute  was  .established  here, 
by  the  State  Le^slature,  in  1888-9. 

In  July,  1866,  a  copy  in  bronze  of 
Houdon's  Statue  of  Washfaigton,  in  the 
Capitol,  at  Richmond,  was  erected  here 
iriu  gay  inaugural  ceremonies  and 
fttes.  liexington  was  commenced  in 
1778,  and  the  present  population  is 
•bout  2,000. 

OharlottMrrfll*,  famous  as  the  seat 
of  the  Univerdty  ofVirj^nia,  and  for 
its  vioinag')  to  Hontioello,  the  home  and 
tomb  of  Tbomas  Jefferson,  is  in  the 
OMt-oentr'*!  part  of  the  State,  97  miles 
fl^m  Richmond  by  the  Central  Railway, 
and  119  miles  fi«m  Washington  City 


(via  Alexandria)  by  the  OraaM  and 
Alexandria  and  the  Virginia  Central 
Railways.  The  Central  Road  e<mtlnnes 
firom  Charlottesville,  via  Staunton,  into 
the  spring,  mountain,  and  cave  region. 

The  Univertity  of  Ftfymto,  one  of  the 
most  distinguishea  of  the  colleges  of  the 
United  States,  is  situated  about  a  mDe 
west  of  the  viUage  of  ChariotteftvfHe. 
It  is  built  (Gyclopsedia  of  American 
Literature)  on  moderately  elevated 
ground,  and  forms  a  striUng  feature  in 
a  beautifhl  landscape.  Ott  tii«  south- 
west it  is  shut  in  by  littie  mountains, 
beyond  which,  a  few  miles  distant,  rise 
the  broken,  and  ocoacdon^  steti^  and 
rugged,  but  not  elevated  ridgtB^  ^ 
characteristic  feature  of  which  Is  ex- 
pressed by  the  name  of  Ragged  Moun- 
tains. To  the  north-west  the  Mufi  Ridge, 
some  20  miles  off,  pres(>uts  its  deep^- 
ored  outline,  kretching  to  tin  north- 
east and  looking  down  upon  the 
mountain-like  hills  that  here  and  there 
rise  firom  the  {dain  without  its  Western 
base.  To  the  east,  the  eye  rests  upon 
the  low  range  of  mouatains  that  bdunds 
the  view  as  far  as  tiie  virioii  can  ex- 
tend north-eastward  and  south-westward 
along  its  slopes,  except  whel«  it  is  in- 
terrupted directly  to  the  east  by  ahHly 
but  fertile  plain,  through  wmch  l3w 
lUvanna,  with  its  discolored  streak, 
flows  by  the  base  of  Monticello.  To  the 
south,  the  view  reaches  far  away  until 
the  horizon  meets  the  plain,  embra^ng 
a  region  lying  between  the  mountidmi 
on  either  hand,  and  covered  witii  forests 
interspersed  with  spots  of  <nfltivated 
land. 

The  Universityof  Virgiida  was  found- 
ed in  1819,  by  Thomas  Jefferson,  and 
so  great  was  ms  interest  in  its  sUceess, 
and  his  estimate  of  its  importance,  tiiat 
in  his  epitaph,  found  among  his  pipers, 
he  ranks  his  share  in  its  foundatioii, 
third  among  the  achievements  and 
honors  of  his  life — the  authorship  of  the 
Declaration  of  Independence  being  the 
first,  and  of  the  Virginia  Statute  for 
Religious  Freedom  the  second.  The 
University  is  endowed  and  controllea 
by  the  State. 

MtoBlieello,  once  the  be«atffiil>ko«M 


viBonnA. 


d3i» 


llie  Bpriags— Boata*. 


•Bd  now  the  tomb  of  Jefferson,  is  about 
four  miles  west  of  Charlottesrille. — 
*'Thb  renermted  mansion,**  says  Mr. 
Iioraing,  in  his  Field  Book  of  the  Rero- 
Itttion,  '*  is  yet  standing,  though  some* 
what  dilapidated  and  deprived  of  its 
former  beauty  by  neglect  The  fumi* 
tore  of  its  distmguished  owner  iis  nearly 
•U  gone,  except  a  few  {uotures  and 
miiTors:  otherwise  the  interior  of  the 
house  is  the  same  as  when  Jefferson 
died.  It  is  upon  an  eminence,  with 
manjt  aspen  trees  around  it,  and  com* 
uands  a  view  of  the  Blue  Bidge  for  150 
miles  on  one  side,  and  on  the  other  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  and  extensive 
landscapos  in  the  world.  Wirt,  writing 
of  the  interior  arrangements  of  the 
house' during  Mr.  Jefferson's  lifetime, 
reeotds  tibat,  in  the  spacious  and  lofty 
hall,  whioh  opens  to  the  visitor  on  enter- 
ing, 'ho  marlu  no  tawdry  and  unmean- 
ii^  ornaments ;  but  before,  on  the  right, 
on  tbt  teft,  all  around,  the  eye  is  struck 
andgn^ed  by  objects  o^  science  and 
tMte^  so  classed  and  arriuiged  as  to 
produce  their  finest  effect.  On  one 
side  spedmens  of  sculpture,  set  out  in 
sudl  ord«r  as  to  exhibit  at  a  c<mp 
tP4i^  the  histwio  progress  of  that  art, 
froni  the  first  rude  attempts  of  the 
itbori^^nes  of  our  country,  up  to  that 
ozqi^te  and  finished  bust  of  the  great 
patriot  himself^  from  the  master  band 
of  GarrachL  On  the  other  side,  the 
visitor  sees  displayed  a  vast  collection 
of  the  specimens  of  the  Indian  art,  their 
paintinp^  weapons,  ornaments  and  man- 
ufaetH|M||i;  on  anotiier,  an  array  of  fos- 
nl  productions  of  our  country,  mineral 
and  apimal;  the  petrified  remains  of 
those  colossal  monsters  which  once  trod 
our  forests,  and  are  no  more ;  and  a 
variegated  display  of  the  branching 
honors,  of  those  monarohs  of  the 
waste  that  still  people  the  wilds  of  the 
American  Gontinent  I  In  a  large  saloon 
were  exquisite  productions  of  vie  paint> 
•r's  art,  and  from  its  windows  opened 
ft  view  of  the  surrounding  country  such 
as  no  painter  could  imitate.  There 
were,  too,  medallions  and  engravings 
in  great  profusion.  Mouticello  was  a 
>p(^i  <if  great  attraotion  to  the  learned 


of  all  lands,  when  travelling  i|i  this 
country,  while  Mr.  Jefferson  lived.  His 
writings  made  him  ftvorably  known  as  a 
scholar,  and  hhi  public  position  made 
him  honored  by  the  nations.  The  re- 
mains of  Mr.  Jefferson  lie  in  a  small 
fiunily  cemetery  by  the  ride  of  the  wind- 
ing roa^  leading  to  Monticello." 

Stamitoii,  is  upon  a  small  branch  of 
the  Shenandoah,  on  the  Yirgiida  Oen* 
tral  Railway,  l20  mfles  west-north-west 
of  Richmond.  It  has  long  been  a  point 
of  rendezvous  for  tourists  to  the  Spring 
Regpon,  hard  by,  though  the  railway 
now  takes  the  traveller  thither,  yet 
nearer.  It  is  from  Staunton  that  we 
reach  the  famous  Wier's  Gave,  18 
miles  north-eastward.  Staunton  is  a 
pretty  and  prosperous  village,  with  a 
population  of  between  2,000  and  8,000. 
It  is  the  seat  of  the  Western  Lunatfo 
Asylum,  and  of  the  yit:^nia  Institution 
tor  the  Deaf,  Dumb  and  Blind. 

WlMdlBf,  famous  as  the  Western 
terminus  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio 
Railway  ( ftt>m  Baltimore  Gity,  897 
miles),  is  on  the  OUo  Wver,  on  both 
rides  of  the  Wheefing  Greek.  It  la  92 
miles  below  Ftttsbnrg,  Pa.,  and  860 
from  Gindnnati.    The  city  is  built  in  a 

S;len  between  bold  hills.  It  Is  the  most 
mportant  {dace  in  Western  Virginia  in 
population,  trade  and  manufactures.— 
Railway  Unes  from  the  western  States 
meet  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  route  at 
Wheding. 

THB  YIBOINIA  SPBINOS. 

WIKB*8  OA.JM — THB  HATOBAL  BBIOOB—- 
THK    PBAKS    or    OTTBB— -AND    OTHBB 

BCBHBS. 

Routes  to  the  Springs.  Fivm  BaUi- 
more  to  Washington,  88  mUes — to  Alex- 
andria, by  steamboat  on  the  Potomac, 
or  by  stsge,  7  miles— 4o  Qordonsville, 
by  the  Orange  and  Alexandria  Railway, 
88  nules— Whence  to  the  present  tenm> 
nus  of  the  Yiri^nia  Gentral  Road,  and 
thence  by  stage.  From- Baltimore  to 
Harper's  Ferry  and  Winchester  by  rail- 
way, and  thence  by  rdlway  and  stage ;  < 
a  pleasant  but  not  the  most  expeditious 
way.     Or  fr<Mn  WasUngton  by  thi 


t89 


Yfaamuk, 


Th«  BiMrlngt— Advloe  to  iBvaUda. 


Potonpto  River  vaA  Fredericksburg 
Builway  180  miles  to  BioIuiHH>d,  tlienoe 
by  the  Yirj^iiia  Central  Railway,  as  far 
as  it  at  present  extends,  througli  Char- 
lottesTifle,  Staunton,  Goshen,  etc.  Ap> 
proaching  from  the  South,  travellers 
dbould  diverse  from  Richmond. 

From  Ricbmond  one  may  also  go  by 
railway  to  Lynchburg,  and  thence  via 
LexAigton,  the  Natunil  Bridge,  etc. 

IVoM  M«  Wuty  passengers  should 
leave  the  Ohio  River  and  route  at  6uy> 
landotte,  thence  by  stage. 
-<  For  still  other  routes,  and  to  pohits 
without  the  Central  Spring  regicm,  see 
each  in  Index,  or  farther  on  in  this 
chapter. 

AdTiM  to  lBvalkb«-Before  we 
let  our  health-seeking  tourist  loose  at 
the  Springs,  it  may  not  be  amiss  to 
give  mm  some  general  counsel  touch- 
Sig  the  life  it  wiU  be  well  for  hhn  to 
lead  therCjSo  that  his  virft  may  end 
hapi»ly.  We,  perhaps,  cannot  do  this 
better  than  in  the  words  ot  Dr.  Burke, 
fai  his  admirable  volume  i^ut  this  re- 
gion. The  prescription  may  be  used 
by  visitors  at  any  and  all  the  thousuid 
watering-places  in  the  Union. 

When  the  patient,  under  proper  ad- 
vice, has  selected,  and  arrived  at  the 
Spriiiig  where  he  expects  reliei^  there 
are  some  observances  so  essential  to 
his  success,  that  in  a  work  profesdng 
in  some  degree  to  serve  as  his  suide,  it 
woidd  be  improper  to  omit  ct^n^  at- 
tention to  them.  If  he  has  Erections 
fi«m  his  Ikmily  physician,  the  first 
question  that  suggests  itself,  is,  Is  he 
in  the  precise  condition  in  which  that 
physician  saw  him  f  If  he  be  not,  what 
change  has  taken  place,  and  what  new 
symptoms  have  occurred  f  It  will  readi- 
ly be  understood^  that  if  the  Journey 
has  been  tedious  and  laborious,  as  In 
virfts  from  the  distant  States,  the  faiva- 
lid  may  have  sulfered  ft>om  a  change  of 
water,  he<  may  be  in  a  state  of  over^x- 
citement,  or  exhaustion,  from  want  of 
deep,  fktigue,  or  want  of  accustomed 
eomforts.  He  may,  from  exposure, 
>  hav^  taken  cold  and  be  in  the  incipient 
sti^  of  catarrhal  fever.  His  liver  may 
have  hMB.  deranged  by  tho  journey. 


His  arterial  and  iwrveus  system  may 
be  abnormally  excited.  He  may  have 
headache,  fhrred  tongue;  or  he  may 
be  constipated,  or  in  other  respects  "  o«f 

Now  is  a  man  in  any  of  these  condi- 
tions to  plunge  into  the  Warm,  Hot,  or 
Sweet  Spring  Bath ;  or  is  he  to  drink «, 
deep  draughts  of  White,  Salt,  or  Red 
Sulphur  water  f    Assuredly,  nol 

It  may  be  necessary  to  administer 
some  agent  to  improve  the  diseased 
secretion,  or  to  give  a  brisk  purgative, 
or  to  prescribe  rest  and  regimen  for 
two  or  three  days,  or  even  to  deplete 
by  general  or  local  bleeding;  If  the 
derauffement  be  a  slight  oncj  he  may 
possibly  be  able  himself  to  administer 
the  necessary  preparatives,  but  if  it  be 
more  serious,  he  should  inrocure  medi- 
cal advice.  It  will  be  the  wisest  and 
safest  plan,  and  may  save  him  in  the 
end  time  and  money. 

I  know  there  are  tarious  rumors  cir- 
culated to  the  disadvantage  of  {Aysi- 
cians  resident  at  the  Springs.  In  MSt 
times  there  may  have  been  impodtions 
practised  in  regard  to  charges;  but  I 
have  made  some  inquiries  ou  this  sub- 
ject, and  believe  they  are  now  mtider^ 
ate  and  uniform.  They  are  necesssrily, 
however,  somewhat  h^er  than  those 
of  the  family  physician  at  home,  as  the 
expenses  are  also  greater. 

I  have  touched  on  this  subject,  be- 
cause I  have  seen  persons  absolutely 
lose  all  the  chances  of  benefit  from  the 
waters  for  want  of  judicious ,  advice. 
Distant  physicians — at  least  many  of 
then^-^now  nothing  of  the  Virginia 
Sprinn,  except  as  a  group.  Very  fre- 
quently, they  do  not  know  the  differ- 
ence between  the  White  Sulphur  uid 
the  Red  Sulphur;  and  often  confound 
the  ktter  with  the  Red  Sweet.  When, 
therefore,  a  physician,  thus  ignoraikt  of 
the  distinctive  characters  of  those  wa- 
ters, undertakes  to  prescribe  them,  he 
is  as  likely  to  be  wrong  as  right ;  and, 
indeed,  we  see,  eveij  season,  many  in- 
stances of  such  unfortunate  mistakes. 
I  spent  a  large  portion  of  last  season  at 
the  Salt  Sulphur,  and  was  consulted  in 
several  isases  in  which  serious  mlstakei 


•  3 


^!fni/QiaFLk, 


8M 


'ONl 


l>1ltl 

;  SUb- 
mcider* 

tbo«e 


TIm  BfiriiigtoAdTlM  t»  laraHdi. 


of  rlhli  kiii4  iMkd  b«en  made.  In  every 
ivitenoe  relief  rewdted  from  sending 
iA»  paUent  to  tlie  water  adapted  to  liis 
<UBeMe«> 

Wtietlier  he  employs  a  phyrician-  or 
not,  let  me  say  to  the  invalid:  "Be  in 
slow  haste."  Survey  the  whole  ground 
««eordin£  to  the  suggestions  I  have 
laid  before  you.  Do  not  gulp  down 
large  quantities  of  water  to  expedite  a 
cure.  It  would  be  about  as  wise  as  the 
|}oiiduct  of  a  man  who  eats  to  repleti<in, 
in  qrjder.  to  get  the  wortii  of  his  money, 
or  as  tb»t  of  the  old  negro  who  swd- 
lowed  down  all  the  physic  1^  by  his 
maJBter,  lest  ft  should  go  to  waste.  Be 
inoderate  in  all  things.  Take  the  water 
so  as  to  insure  its  gradual  difibsion 
through  your  system^  that  yon  may 
.obtMn  Uiat  invisible  and  silent  tUterative 
action  which  is  eventually  to  eradicate 
vour  disease.  Go  to  work  coolly,  cainn 
ly  and  systematically,  and  you  will  own 
t^vbeM^t  of  the  advice.  Cmrry  in 
jour  ndnd  the  following  prescription, 
or  something  like  it,  and  perhaps  it  will 
f^djovi  in  «  regular  plan  of  conduct : 

.If  the  weather  and  other  circum> 
sfawDcea  admit,  rise  about  6,  throw  your 
olot^  on  your  shoulders,  visit  the 
%liru)gr,  take  a  small-sized  tumbler  <^ 
water,  move  about  in  a  brisk  wak; 
jdiink  again  at  6^,  continuing  moderate 
exercise— «gidn  at  1 ;  bres£ftst  when 
jrott  can  get  it,  (generally  it  is  about  8, 
and.  that  is  early  enough,)  but  let  it  be 
moderate  and  of  suitable  quality.  In 
ihost  cases,  a  nice,  tender  mutton  chop, 
or  a  soft-boiled  eg^,  (be  sure  it  is  freui 
iand  not  preserved  m  (mw.)  or  venison, 
or  beef-«teak,  if  admisdble.  Eat  stale 
bread,  or  corn  mush,  or  hominy — the 
latter  a  delightftil  article  to  be  found  at 
ao^e  of  the  Springs— a  cuf^  of  black 
|»li.  not  strone,  or  a  glass  of  unakitmud 
milk.  From,  the  above  articles  you  may 
make  a  breakfast  Kood  enough  for  a 
king-4f  such  an  ammal  must  live  bet- 
ter than  othera  of  his  specie?.  Ton 
may  well  dispense  with  buckwheat 
cakes  floating  in  butter,  omelets  of  stale 
ieggs,  strong  coffee,  hot  bread,  and  all 
the  other  a^ioncts  of  an  ei^ourean  table. 

iilter  breakfast,  if  you  can  command 


a  eaniage,  or  a  horse,  lake  a  drive  .^r 
ride^  or  amuse  yourself  as  best  yon  maj 
until  19.  Sat  no  hmeh«o».  At  IJjl, 
takes  a  glass  of  water,  walk  in  the 
shade,  drink  again  at  lSf«-»again  at  1. 
IMnner  is  usually  about  8.  Eatfor«o«ir> 
iahment  and  not  for  loxury.  Avoid  bad 
potatoes,  cabbage,  beets,  tomips,onions, 
salt  meat  of  every  description,  pastry, 
fruits,  either  cooked  or  in  thdr  'atunU 
state.  Though  innocent  elsewhere,  they 
are  pot  usuafiy  «o  at  Mineral  Waters^ 

Amuse  younelf  in  social  intercoanw 
OT  gentie  exercise  until  6,  take  a  glass 
of  water — ^walk  or  ride  nniB  supper—* 
take  a  cup  oif  black  tea  <w  a  fiass  of 
milk  and  a  cracker.  If  you  are  a  danev, 
you  may  ei\}oy  it,  but  in  moderatfam, 
until  10,  then  retire  to  your  room.— 
Avoid  the  gaming  table,  as  you  would 
the  road  to  desiui,  and  the  gate  to 
HelL 

Such  is  the  ffmeral  prescription  I  give 
forinTalids.  It  will  readily  be  seen  that 
it  cannot,  and  indeed  ought  not,  to  be 
carried  out  in  detail  in  every  ease.— 
There  will  be  many  modifications  neoefr 
sary,  which  a  discreet  invalid  or  his 
judicious  fdiysician  will  not,  fitiT  to 
adopt.. 

If  he  finds  himself  improving,  let  him 
remain  at  the  fountain ;  bnt  u,  after:  ft 
fair  trial  of  the  water,  taken  after  the 
system  has  been  property  prepared,  an4 
accompanied  by  somethtaig  like  tibe 
course  I  have  suggested,  the  aymptosM 
of  his  disease  become  aggravated,  or 
new  ones  supervene,  then  he  should 
abandon  the  use  of  the  water,  and  try  to  - 
find  another  better  adapted  to  his  case. 
But  if,  by  an  act  of  imprudence  he  ren- 
ders that  noxious  which,  under  more 
au8i4cious  circumstances,  would  have 
been  salutary,  he  should  net  virit  up<m 
it  the  blame  due  to  his  own  indiseretion. 
It  has  been  made  a  question  Low 
long  a  mineral  water  ema  be  used  widi 
advantage.  Different  vievs  are  enter* 
ttdned  on  the  subject;  but  I  am  conk* 
vinoed  no  general  mle  can  be  giveo, 
where  so  much  depends  on  the  disease, 
its  intensitv,  the  habits  <^  the  iadly^ 
dual,  and  the  effects  produced. 
That  .there  i»  a  pcdi^t  of  soAe^ufieii, 


289 


yntcmriA. 


Th«  Bfitiag  Bagtoa. 


there  can  b«  no  doubt,  and  when  that 
la  reached— rindieated  by  furred  tongue, 
headache,  and  other  unpleasant  ajmp- 
toma — it  will  be  proper  to  intermit  the 
use  of  the  water  for  a  few  days,  to  take 
a  little  blue  mass  or  other  me^oine,  to 
make  an  excursion  to  the  a(j|jacent 
country  or  neighboring  Springs,  and 
agiin  after  a  week  to  resume  the  use 
of  the  water.  Symptoms  indicating 
this  condition  are,  howeyer,  often  pro* 
duoed  by  some  act  of  imprudence,  and 
when  this  is  the  case  the  first  step  is 
rt/orm.  With  these  obserranoes,  the 
season  may  be  spent  with  advantage  at 
any  Spring  that  suits  the  patient's  case, 
and  I  am  sure  that,  in  cases  of  long* 
continued  disease,  it  is  fdlly  to  expect  a 
radical  cure  in  a  few  days.  These  re- 
marics  are  no  less  appHoable  to  the 
bathing  than  to  the  drinking  waters, 
prudence  being  still  more  necessary  in 
usinff  the  former  than  the  latter. 

Th0  Wliite  Snlphnr  l^»ing&r— Not 
knowing  which  of  the  seTertU  routes 
oar  traveller  may  desire  to  follow,  we 
thaXL,  instead  of  journejing  in  any  pre* 
scribed  line  from  Spring  to  Spnng, 
iump  at  once  to  that  central  and  most 
famous  point,  the  White  Sulphur. 

The  favorite  Spa  is  on  Howard's 
Creek,  in  Oreenbrier  County,  directly 
on  the  edge  of  the  Great  Western  Val- 
ley, and  near  the  base  of  the  Alleghany 
raqige  of  mountains,  whidi  rise  at  all 
points  in  picturesque  and  winn.'of; 
beauty.  Kate's  Mountain,  which  re- 
calls some  heroic  exploits  of  an  Indian 
maiden  of  long  ago,  is  one  fine  p<nnt  in 
the  scene,  southward;  while  the  Green* 
brier  ffills  lie  two  miles  away,  towards 
the  west,  and  the  lofty  Alleghany 
towers  up  m^lesticaUy,  half  a  dozen 
miles  off,  on  the  north  and  east 

The  White  Sulphur  is  in  the  heart  of 
the  celebrated  group  of  Western  Virgi- 
nia Springs,  with  the  Hot  Spring,  88 
miles  distant,  on  the  north ;  the  Sweet 
Spring,  17  miles  to  the  eastward;  the 
Salt  and  the  Red  Springs,  24  and  41 
miles,  respectively,  on  the  south ;  and  the 
Blue  Spring,  22  miles  away,  on  the  west. 
The  vioina^  of  the  White  Sulphur 
Is  as  gratefiil  in  natural  attractions  as 


the  waters  are  admirable  in  medidnal 
value.  Its  locale  is  in  a  charming  vat- 
ley,  environed,  like  that  of  Rasseua,  by 
sfl»ring  hilb,  and  the  summer  home  in 
its  midst  has  all  the  conveniences  and 
luxuries  for  a  veritable  Castle  of  Indo* 
lence.  Fifty  acres,  perhaps,  are  oocv- 
pied  with  lawns  and  walks,  and  this 
cabins  and  cottages  of  the  guests,  birilt 
in  rows  around  uie  public  aparUnenta, 
the  dinine-room,  the  ball*room, '  eto., 
giVe  the  ]^ace  quite  a  merry,  happy  tH- 
lage  dr.  There  is  Abbama  Row,  Lou* 
iaiana,  Paradise,  Baltimore,  and  Vir> 
ginia  Bows,  Gewgia,  Wolf  and  Badie* 
lor's  Rows,  Broadway,  the  Cohumade, 
Virginia  Lawn,  the  Spring,  and  other 
specialities.  The  cottuies  are  baih  of 
wood,  brick,  and  of  logs,  one  story 
high;  and,  altogether,  the  sedal  ap* 
rangement  and  spirit  here,  as  ai  aU  the 
surrounding  Springs,  has  a  pleasant, 
quiet,  home  sentiment,  very  much  mora 
desirable  than  the  metropolitan  temper 
of  mora  accessible  and  mora  tiironged 
rosorts. 

It  is  sud  that  the  rite  of  these  Springs 
was  once  the  favorite  hunting-gronnd 
of  the  Shawnees,  a  tradition  sufqwrted 
by  the  romains  found  in  various  parts 
of  the  valley,  in  the  shape  of  imple* 
ments  of  the  chase  and  andent  gniv,e8. 

It  is  not  known  precisely  at  what  pe* 
riod  the  Spring  was  discoverad.  Tbouffh 
the  IncUans,  undoubtedly,  knew  ito  'dr* 
tues,  there  is  no  record  of  its  bdng 
used  by  the  whites  until  l*il8,  when 
Mrs.  Anderson,  wife  of  one  of  tilie  early 
settlers,  was  borne  hither  on  a  Utter, 
from  her  house  fifteen  mUes  ofl^  for  the 
relief  of  a  rheumatic  afleotion.  Her  re* 
covery,  fit>m  the  employment  of  the 


water  in  bathing  and  drinking, 
noised  abroad,  and  in  succeeding  yean 
other  visitors  came,  pitching  tents  aesnr 
the  Spring  in  the  absence  of  all  kind  of 
accommodation.  Log-cabins  were  first 
erected  on  the  spot  in  1784-6,  and  the 
place  began  to  assume  something  of  its 
present  aspect  about  1820;  ^ce 
then,  it  has  been  yearly  improved, 
until  it  is  capable  of  pleasantly  houataig 
some  1,600  guests. 
The  Spring  bubbles  up  from   tiM 


The  Spring  3«Stoa* 


-H- 


itss 


earth  in  the  lowest  part  of- the  valley, 
and  is  ooTered  by  a  pavilion,  formed  of 
12  lonio  eolumns,  supporting  a  dome, 
crowned  by  a  statue  of  the  bweom  lauU 
Hygeia. 

The  Sprhig  is  at  an  elevation  of  2,000 
feet  above  tide-water.  Itb  temperature 
is  62° .  Fahrenheit,  and  is  uniform 
through  all  seasons.  It  yields  about 
80  gidlons  per  minute,  and  the  supply 
is  neither  diminished  in  dry  weather,  nor 
increased  by  the  longest  rains. 

We  shall  not  occupy  our  little  space 
with  the  record  of  the  analyris  of  the 
water  here,  or  elsewhere,  as  the  visitor 
may  easily  inform  himself  in  that  re- 
spect on  the  spot.  One  of  its  most 
marlced  properties,  says  the  waggish 
Peregrine  Prolix, whom  we  have  alnady 
quoted^  and  may  perchance  again— 4s  a 
strong  infusion  of  fiuhion,  an  animal 
substMMe,  the  quality  of  which  cannot 
be  preeiady  ascertained,  but  is  sup- 
posml  to  contribute  greatly  to  its  effi- 
cacy. This  esteemed  and  magic  ingre- 
dient, when  submitted  to  the  ordeal  of 
BXUitpkt,  Is  found  always  to  vanish  in 
smoke;  There  are  less  erudite,  thouf^ 
not  more  merry  doctors  about  than 
oar  most  sage  friend  Prolix. 

Tliir  Salt  Buifhur  Springs,  three  in 
nvndlMr,  are  about  twenty-four  miles 
firom  the  WUte  Sulphur,  near  Union, 
the  capital  of  Monroe  Oounty.  Like 
the  WhiCie  Sulphur,  they  are  beautifoUy 
nestied  in  the  lajvof  mountain  rouges. 
Tlie  Springs  are  near  the  eastern  base 
of  Swepe's  Mountain.  On  the  north, 
the  Alleghany  rises,  while  Peter's  Moun- 
tun  extends  on  the  south  and  east. 

The  Salt  Sulphur  was  discovered  in 
1805,  -by  Mr.  Irwin  Benson,  while  bor- 
ii^  fbr  salt  water,  which  he  was  led  to 
hope  for  by  the  ftct  that  the  spot  had 
formerly  been  a  favorite  ''lick"  for 
deer  and  buffalo.  The  hotels  and  cot- 
tages at  the  Salt  Sulphur  will  accommo- 
date some  400  guests.  Every  reason- 
able wmt  may  be  satisfied  here,  whether 
it  regards  the  interior  creature  com- 
forts, or  the  exterior  seekings  for  the 
beautiful  and  curious  in  physical  nature. 
If  one  is  artistical,  he  may  sketch  for- 
ever ;  or  if  he  is  geological,  or  botanical, 


or  conchiological,hemay  fo8dlize,or  her> 
barittmise,  or  cabinetize,  to  all  eternity. 

TIm  BhM  Salplinr  Spttng ,  u 
Qreenbrier  Oounty,  is  another  sweet 
valley  nook,  22  mlMs  west  of  the  White 
Sulphur,  82  north  by  east  firom  the  Red 
Sulphur,  and  18  from  Lewisburg.  It  is 
upon  the  turai^ke  road  to  Ouyandotte, 
on  the  Ohio. 

The  Blue  Sulphur,  26  miles  from  the 
White  Sulphur,  was  known  long  ago, 
first  as  a  "lick,"  frequented  by  vast 
herds  of  deer  and  buflUo  from  the 
neighboring  forests  of  Sewers  Moun- 
tain. Its  geographical  position  is  with- 
in the  mi^c  hill-circle  of  the  great 
group  of  the  Western  Sprines,  eqoying 
ulthe  healthfhl  climates  of  that  most 
salubrious  of  regions. 

There  is,  besides  the  oaMns,  a  large 
brick  hotel  here,  180  feet  long  and 
three  stories  high,  to  which  is  Mded, 
on  either  side,  a  wing  of  two  stories, 
and  190  feet  ,&5}ade,  with  piasaas 
through  the  entire  length.  The  foan> 
tdn  is  in  the  centre  of  a  charming 
lawn,  and  is  crowned,  as  usual,  with  a 
temple-shaped  edifice.  Here,  as  in  the 
homes  <tf  all  the  sulphureous  sisterhood 
of  this  region,  the  guest  wQl  find  most 
hospitable  care  for  all  his  .wants— kind 
and  Hberal  provision  in  all  things  being 
the  common  law  of  tiie  land.  . 

The  Bad  Sii^pliiir  Spring!,  in  the 
southern  portion  of  Monroe  County, 
are  42  miles  below  the  White  Sulphur, 
1*7  from  the  Salt,  32  from  the  Blue,  and 
89  from  the  Sweet.  *The  approach  to 
the  Springs  is  beautlAilly  romantic  and 
picturesque.  Wending  his  way  around 
a  high  mountain,  the  weary  traveller  is 
for  a  moment  charmed  out  of  his 
fatigue  by  the  sudden  view  of  his  rest- 
ing-place, some  hundreds  of  feet  imme- 
diately beneath  him.  Continuing  the 
circuitous  descent,  he  at  length  reaches 
a  ravine,  which  conducts  him,  after  a 
few  rugged  steps,  to  the  entrance  of  a 
verdant  glen,  surrounded  on  all  sides 
by  lofty  mountains.  The  south'  end  of 
this  enchanting  vale,  which  is  the  wid- 
est portion  of  it,  is  about  two  hundred 
feet  in  width.  Its  course  is  neariy 
*  Hanti 


i  ^yf  W 


.TIBaiNIA. 

Hm  Byrlag  Bcgion. 


.north  for  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
yards,  when  it  begins  gradually  to  con- 
tracts  and  chapges  its  direction  to  the 
north-west  and  west,  until  it  terminates 
ip  a  narrow  point  This  beautifiilly 
secluded  Tempe  is  the  chosen  site  of 
the  Tillage.  The  north«west  portion  is 
occulted  by  stifles,  carriage-houses, 
and  shops  of  yaiious  sorts;  the  south- 
«m  portion,  just  at  the  base  of  the  east 
and  west  mountains,  is  that  upon  which 
stand  tl^  Tarious  edificM  for  Uie  ac- 
commodation of  Tiaitors.  These  build- 
ings are  spacious,  and  conveniently  ar- 
rainged,  while  the  jvomenades,  which 
•re  neatly  enclosed  bv  a  white  railing, 
aie  beautifully  embellished,  and  shaded 
ikom  the  mictday  sun  ^j  indigenes  of 
the  forest,  the  large,  umbrageous  sugar 
maple.;  The  Spring  is  situated  at  the 
south-west  point  of  the  valley,  and  the 
water  is  collected  into  two  white  mar- 
ble fountains,  ovef  which  is  thrown  a 
jmbstantial  cover. 

.  l^hese  Springs  have  neen  known  and 
^tinguished  as  a  watering-place  for 
near  fi%  years.  The  improvements  at 
the  place  are  extensive  and  well-de- 
signed, combining  elegance  with  com- 
fort, and  are  sufficient  for  the  accom- 
modation of  860  persons. 

The  water  of  the  Spring  is  clear  and 
cool,  its  temperature  being  64"  Fahren- 
heit. 

TIm  SwMil/Spiiagn  are  in  the  east- 
eAi  part  of  Monroe  County,  17  miles 
south-east  of  the  White  Sulphur  and  22 
from  the  Salt  Sulphur.  They  have  been 
known  longer  than  any  other  mineral 
waters  in  Virginia,  having  been  dis- 
covered as  early  as  1764.  So  long  ago 
as  1774,  these  waters  were  analyzed  by 
Bishop  Madison,  then  the  president  of 
William  and  Mary  Ck^ge. 

The  Sweet  Springs  lie  in  a  lovely 
valley,  five  miles  in  length,  and  be- 
tween a  mile  and  half  a  mile  broad. 
The  Alleghany  Mountain  bounds  this 
Ttimf9  on  the  north,  and  the  Sweet 
Spring  Mountun  rises  on  the  south. 
The  hotel  here  is  of  noble  extent,  with 
Its  grand  length  of  260  feet,  and  its 
dining-hall  of  160  feet,  The  Sweet 
Sprii^  is  one  of  the  gayest  places  in 


this  wide  valley  of  mhieral  fountain*; 
and  a  visit  hither  is  usually  the  ctvwning 
excursion  of  the  Spring  Miason,  the  jolly 
breakdown  of  the  ball. 

TIm  Bed  SwMt  Gtoriafn  are  a  mile 
only  firom  the  Sweet  Springs  Just  men^ 
tioned,  on  the  way  to  the  White  8ul» 
phur.  This  water  is  chalybeate,  aod^a 
powerfyil  agent  in  cases  reqidring  a 
tonic  treatment.  The  landscape  here 
is  most  agreeable.  A  mile  and  a  half 
from  the  Sweet  Springs  are  the  admired 
Beaver-dam  Falls. 

THBBMAL  WATEB8.  ' 

Thn  Waran  Sprfan  are  in  Bath 
County,  about  170  miles,  nearly  west, 
<on  the  great  Spring  Routt),  firom 
Staunton,  or  points  forther  wiBSt  on 
the  Virginia  Central  Railway  by  the 
Hot  and  White  Sulj^ur  to  the  Ohio 
River,  at  Ouyandotte.  They  are  utu* 
ated  in  a  delightful  valley,  bet^ween 
lofty  hill  ranges.  Fine  views  are  opened 
all  about  on  the  Warm  Spring  Mountain. 
From  the  "Gap,"  where  the  road 
crosses,  and  from  '*the  Rock,**  2,700 
feet  above  tide  water,  the  display  is 
aeservedly  famous. 

Hot  Springs.  Five  miles  rmnoved 
from  the  Warm  Springs  (Bath  County) 
at  the  interseetion  of  two  nafrrow 
valleys,  are  the  Hot  Springs^  The 
scenery  here,  though  very  agreeablCt  as 
is  that  of  all  the  region  round,  is  not 
especially  striking.  ^The  accommoda- 
tions for  guests,  however,  are  as  ad- 
mirable as  elsewhere ;  and  the  waters 
are  not  less  serviceable. 

Tha  Bath  Alum  Springe  are  at  the 
eastern  base  of  the  Warm  Spring  Moun- 
tain, five  miles  east  of  the  Warm  Springs, 
47  miles  east  of  the  White  Sulphur,  and 
46  west  of  Staunton.  The  vaUey  of  the 
Bath  Alum  is  a  cosy  glen  of  1,000  «cfes, 
shut  in,  upon  the  east,  by  MeClung*s 
Ridge ;  on  the  south-east,  by  Shayer's 
Mountun ;  on  the  west,  by  the  Piney 
lUf^e ;  and  on  the  south-west  by  Little 
Piney. 

TIm  Bookbridfs  Ahim  Springn 
are  in  Rockbrid^  County,  on  the  main 
road  from  Lexington  to  the  Warm 
Springs,  17  miles  trom  the  first,  uid  22 


luntaina; 
Browning 
thejoUy 

•e  a  mile 
usi  menv 
hite  Sui- 
te, Aod^a 
quiring  a 
ftpe  here 
id  a  half 
I  admired 


in  Bath 
urly  west, 
ite,   from 

veak  -on 
^  by  tlie 
the  Ohio 

are  «itu- 

bet^ween 
re  opened 
koontain. 
the  road 
jk,"  2,100 
disfday  is 

removed. 
I  County) 
>  narrow 
gs.     The 

Deabkf  as 
td,  ii  not 
sbramoda- 
re  as  ad- 
M  waters 

are  at  the 
AS  Moun- 


iprmgik 
)hur,  and 
ey  of  ^e 
000  acres, 
IeClung*s 
Bhayer's 
the  Piney 
i  by  Little 

SpringM 

the  mun 

le  Warm 

and  23 


Tha  Sprlag  ^agloa. 


9M 


■Hr 


from  the  second  point.  The  ralley  in 
mhieh  they  are  found  lies  below  the 
North  Mountain  on  the  east,  and  the 
If  ill  Mountain  on  the  west. 

TlM  FKoqalHr  White  Aa^^hnr,  in 
Flauqider  County,  are  86  miles  mily  firom 
Washington,  and  about  40  from  Fred* 
erioksburg.  Take  the  Orange  and 
Alexandria  Railway  from  Alexandria, 
41  miles,  to  Warrenton  Junction, 
thence,  nine  miles,  by  Branch  to  War- 
renton, and  you  are  dose  by.  Take  the 
Virghiia  Central  Railway  from  lUch- 
mond,  thence  deflect  at  Oordonsrille,  on 
the  Orange  and  Alexandria  road  to 
Warreikion  Junction ;  thence,  as  before, 
to  Warrenton,  by  Branch  road.  Dis- 
tance from  Richmond  182  miles. 

Joidnn^  White  Salphar.  These 
Springs  are  in  Frederick  County,  five 
imles  fkioin  Winchester,  and  one  mile 
and  a  half  fr^mi  Stephenson  Depot,  on 
the  Winchester  and  Potomac  Railway. 
Distattise  from  Harper's  Ferrr  28i,  from 
BaHlmore  (Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railway 
to  Harper's  Ferry)  116^  miles. 

The  Bhnnnondnle  Sjpriiigs  are  in 
Jefferson  County,  five  mues  and  a  half 
from  Charieston,  a  point  on  the  railway 
frbm'  Harper's  Ferry  to  Winchester. 
Distance  to  Charieston  Arom  Harper's 
Ferry,  10  miles ;  from  Baltimore  (Bal* 
timore  and  Ohio  Railway)  92  miles, 

Th»  BiriBelay  IS^piiaga,  hi  Bath, 
Morgan  County,  are  two  miles  and  a 
half  firom  Sir  John's  Depot,  a  point  on  the 
Baltimore  and  Ohio  Ridlway,  180  miles 
west  of  Batlimore.  This  is  a  very  ancient 
and  distinguished  resort,  esteemed  and 
frequented  by  Washinffton  before  the 
Rerolution.  Strother's  Hotel  is  a  house 
to  Hnger  at  as  long  as  ponible.  0*Far- 
rell's  Hotel  is  another  and  a  good 
house  here. 

Thn  Onpoa  Sprinfi  are  28  miles 
south-west  of  Winchester,  at  the  base 
of  the  North  Mountdn.  Take  the 
Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railway,  from  Bal- 
timore to  Harper's  Ferry,  82  nules; 
thence,  th«  Potomac  and  Winchester," 
82  miles,  to  Winchester;  thence  by 
stage  i  or  take  the  Orange  and  Alex- 
andria road,  from  Alexandria,  27  miles, 
to  Muassas  Station  and  the  Manas- 


Stts  Gap  Railway,  01  miles  more,  to  Straa* 


buiw. 


Spflngil  Bath  County. 
These  thermal  waters  lie  in  a  pleasant 
Tslley  of  eight  or  ten  miles  extent,  be» 
tween  the  Warm  l^ng  Mountidn  on 
the  east,  a&d  the  VaUey  Mountain  on 
the  west  In  the  neighborhood  is  th* 
fine  easoade,  from  whidi  this  loealitv  of 
the  southern  group  <^  the  HeslinK 
Springs  (here  j^irticulM^  referred  t<^ 
derires  its -name  of  nulling  Spring 
VaUej.  "         ^ 

Dinrall'i  fljpciag  is  on  the  nudn  road 
frum  Lynchburg  to  the  White  Sulphur, 
19  miles  west,  by  a  dlreot  road  from  the 
Natural  Bridge,  or  28  miles  thenoe,  via 
Buchanan.  It  is  in  the  extreme  norths 
western  part  of  Botetourt  County,  tO 
miles  east  of  the  AUeghanies,  and  «k 
the  base  of  Gordon  Mountain. 

RnwkyHi  Springi  are  in  Rooking- 
ham  County,  upon  the  soutiiem  dope 
of  the  North  Mountain,  12  miles  frMi 
Harrisburg,  and  120  miles  north'Oast  of 
the  White  Sulphur. 

Ofarayaon^Sal^phar  are  west  of  tbn 
Blue  Kdge,in  Carroll  County,  20  miles 
south  of  WytheriUe,  on  tiie  New 
Rlrer— a  region  of  remarkable  iatnnl 
beauty. 

Th*  AUsghaay  BpKla§»  are  in 
Montgomery  County,  On  the  south 
fork  of  the  Roanoke  Rirer,  10  railAs 
east  of  Christiansburg,  on  the  Virginia 
and  Tennessee  Railway.  From  Rich- 
mond to  Chrisliaxisburg,  210  miles  west'; 
from  Lynchburg,  86  miles. 

PnlMkl  Afana  Spriasr,  In  Futadd 
County,  north-west,  on  Little  Water 
Creek,  10  miles  from  Newbem,  and 
seyen  nules,  in  a  direct  line,  from  the 
Yir^nia  and  Teunessee  Railway. 

New  XiOndon  Alnni  la  in  the  Ooanty 
of  CampbeU,  10  mOes  south-west  of 
Lynchburg.  (See  Lynchburg,  for  route 
thither.) 

Th«  Hngnwot  G^ciags  is  a  water- 
ing-place  in  Powhattan  County,  17  miles 
fr>om  Richmond.  Take  the  Richmond 
and  Danville  Rdlway  to  the  Springs 
Station,  about  10  ndles,  thence  by  gOM 
omnibuses  or  stages.  A  pleasant  ex- 
cursion fh>m  Richmond.    . 


S86 


TZBOnilA. 


Tk«  Nttonl  Bridge. 


There  are  many  other  mineral  foon- 
tains  in  Yireiuia  (uaoorei^d  and  undis* 
oovered.  We  have  mentioned  in  our 
eatalogne  ail  of  much  reeort ;  and  many 
more  tlian  the  Tidtor  can  ex^riore  in 
one  short  ranuier. 

TIm  Natonl  Bridg*  is  in  Rook- 
bridge  Oonnty,  in  Western  Virginia,  68 
miles  from  the  White  Sulphor  Springs. 
From  Washington,  ih»  trareller  hitMr 
may  take  the  Orange  and  Alexandria 
RaUwaT  to  Qordons^e,on  the  Yirf^nia 
Central  and  the  Central  to  Staunton; 
and  tbenoe,  br  Stage,  08  miles,  via 
Lexington ;  or  he  may  take  the  railway 
from  Biohmond  to  Lynohburs,  and 
Alienee  by  stage,  86  miles.  In  the 
jdeasant  book  w  Viigihia  Lettera,  upon 
which  we  have  already  ft«ely  drawn. 
Peregrine  Prolix  thus  records  the  story 
of  his  visit  to  the  Katiiral  Bridge. 

«  Every  bodv  in  this  vicinity  wiU  teU 
yon  that  the  distance  from  Lexingtmi 
to  the  Natural  Bridge  is  19  miles ;  but 
the  shortest  route  is  14  ndles,  tix  of 
which  being  supposed  to  be  impossable 
In  consequence  of  the  superabundance 
of  rain.  The  driver  of  my  hack,  by 
name  Oliver  (a  mthmikrope  of  great 
•kill  Ul  his  art),  jmrsued  »  route  uiree 
ndles  longer.  Not  being  awftre  of  the 
inconceivable  badness  c?  the  road,  and 
being  naturally  averse  to  eariy  rising, 
I  did  not  leave  Lexington  until  nine 
o'clock.  Oliver  soon  horrified  me  by 
turning  into  the  road  we  travelled  last 
evenii^,  and  informing  me  we  mu&t 
pursue  it  for  six  miles,  and  then  take  a 
cross  road  for  three  miles  to  get  into 
the  direct  route.  This  was  bad  news ; 
for  in  a  rerion  of  bad  roads,  the  cross 
roads  are  tiie  worst,  and  are  as  bad  as 
the  cross  women.  And  indeed,  until 
within  two  miles  of  the  bridge,  the  road 
is  so  pre-eminently  abominable,  that  it 
has  won  to  itself  the  title  of  purgatory, 
and  like  that  uncomfortable  place,  when 
once  in,  it  requires  much  whipping  to 
get  yoc  out. 

"  Not  withstanding  the  difficulties  of 
mud  aid  mire,  rut  and  rock,  hill  and 
hollow,  the  skilftil  Oliver  luided  me 
safe  f.t  the  house  near  the  bridge  at 
two  y.  H.    A  melanthropic  guide  con- 


ducted me  immediately  down  a  winding 
rocky  path  to  the  bottom  of  the  deep 
chasm,  in  which  flows  the  little  stream 
called  Cedar  Creek,  and  across  the  top 
of  whibh,  from  brink  to  brink,  there 
sUll  extends  an  enormous  roclcy  stratum, 
that  time  and  gravity  have  moulded 
into  a  ffraoeftil  arch.  The  bed  of  Cedar 
Creek  is  more  than  two  hundred  fiset 
below  the  surfiuse  of  the  plain,  and  the 
sides  of  the  enormous  chasm,  at  the 
bottom  of  which  the  water  flows,  are 
composed  of  solid  rock  maintaining  a 
posinon  almost  perpendicidar.  These 
adamantine  walls  did  not  seem  to  me 
to  be  water-worn,  but  suggested  the 
idea  of  an  enormous  cavern,  that  in 
remote  ages  may  have  been  covered 
for  miles  by  the  continuatioB  of  that 
stratum  of  which  idl  that  now  remains 
ia  the  ardi  of  the  Natural  Bridge.  I  do 
verily  bdHeve  that  this  stupendous  ob- 
ject is  the  rui»  of  a  mm,  one  of  those 
antres  vast,  in  which  our  limestone  re- 
gions abound,  and  which  perhapa  existed 
previous  to  the  upheaving  of  our  conti- 
nent, and  was  tenanted  by  Naiads,  Tri- 
tons, and  other  worthies  of  the  deep. 

**  The  flrst  sensation  of  the  beholder 
is  one  of  double  astonishment ;  first,  at 
the  absolute  sublimity  of  the  scene ; 
next,  at  the  total  inadequacy  of  the  de- 
scripitions  he  has  read,  and  the  futures 
he  has  seen,  to  produce  in  Us  mind  the 
funtest  idea  of  the  reality.  The  great 
height  gives  the  arch  an  air  of  grace 
and  lightness  that  must  be  seen  to  be 
felt,  and  the  power  of  speech  is  for  a 
moment  lost  in  contemplating  the  im- 
mense dimensions  of  the  surrounding 
objects.  The  middle  of  the  arch  la 
forty-five  feet  in  perpendicular  tidck- 
ness,  which  increases  to  sixty  at  its 
juncture  with  the  vast  abutments.  Its 
top,  which  is  covered  with  soil  sup- 
porting shrubs  of  various  rixes,  is  two 
hundred  and  ten  feet  high.  It  is  r'xty 
feet  wide,  and  its  span  te  almost  ninety 
feet.  Across  the  top  passes  a  pubUo 
road,  and  being  in  the  same  phme  with 
the  neighboring  country,  you  may  cross 
it  in  a  coach  without  being  aware  of 
the  interesting  pass.  There  are  several 
forest  trees  of  large  dimensions  grow- 


TIBOOriA. 
TiM  Peak*  of  Otter. 


987 


-r-r 


•  winding 
the  deep 
tie  stream 
M  tlie  top 
Inlc,  there 
7  stratum, 

moulded 
lofOedar 
ndredfoet 
n,  and  the 
n,  at  the 
flows,  are 
itaining  a 
ir.  These 
»m  to  me 
csted  the 
a,  that  in 
a  eoTered 
m  of  that 
w  remains 
Ige.  I  do 
ndous  ob- 
I  of  tliose 
Bstone  le- 
ipB  existed 
oar  contl- 
aiads,  Tri- 
te deeoi 
I  beholder 
1 ;  first,  at 
le  seene; 
of  the  de- 
efrfetores 
I  mind  the 
The  great 
'  of  grace 
sen  to  be 
1  is  for  a 
g  the  im- 
rronndiog 
s  aroh  £ 
ilar  thiclc- 
cty  at  its 
ents.    Its 

s<h1  sap- 
es,  is  two 
t  is  r'xty 
Mt  ninety 
i  public 
dane  with 
may  cross 
aware  of 
re  several 
one  grow- 


ing  near  the  edge  of  the 
creek  directly  under  the 
arch,  which  do  not  nearly 
reach  its  lowest  part. 

**The  most  imporing 
view  is  from  about  sixty 
yards  below  the  bridge, 
dose  to  the  edge  of  the 
creek;  from  that  position 
the  aroh  appears  thinner, 
lighter,  and  loftier.  From 
the  edge  of  this  creek  at 
some  oistanoe  above  the 
bridge,  you  look  at  the 
thicker  side  of  the  arch, 
which  from  this  point  of 
view  approaches  some- 
what to  the  €h>tbic.  A 
little  above  the  bridge, 
on  the  western  side  of 
the  creek,  the  wall  of 
rock  is  broken  into  but- 
ress>like  masses,  which 
rise  almost  perpencUoular- 
ly  to  a  he^t  of  nearly 
two  hundred  and  fifty  feet, 
terminating  in  separate 
pinnacles  which  overlook 
the  bridge.  It  requires  a 
strong  head,  (perchance 
a  tiiick  skaU,)  to  stand 
(m  one  of  these  narrow 
eminences  and  look  into 
the  yawning  gulf  below. 

**  W  hen  you  are  exactly 
under  the  arch  and  cast 
your  glances  upwards,  the 
space  appears  immense ;  and  the  sym- 
metry of  the  ellipsoidal  concave  formed 
by  the  arch  and  the  gigantic  walls  from 
which  it  springs,  is  wonderfully  pleas- 
ing. From  tluis  position  the  views  in 
both  directions  are  sublime  and  strikng 
from  the  immense  height  of  the  rooky 
walls,  stretching  away  m  various  curves, 
covered  in  some  places  by  the  drapery 
of  the  forest,  green  and  graceftil,  and 
in  others  without  a  bramble  or  a  bush, 
4Mure  and  blue. 

*'  Header,  do  not  allow  the  coolness 
of  the  neighbors,  or  the  heat  of  the 
weather,  or  the  badness  of  the  roads, 
or  the  goodness  of  your  equipage,  or 
the  inertia  of  your  disposition,  or  the 


The  Nfttond  Bridge,  Yirglnls. 


gravity  of  your  baggage,  or  the  levity 
of  your  purse,  or  tiie  nolition  of  your 
womankind,  or  any  other  creature  of 
any  other  kind,  to  prevent  you  from 
going  to  see  the  Natural  Bridge ;  you 
never  saw  its  like  before,  and  never  will 
you  look  upon  its  like,  again." 

The  Feaka  of  Otter.  These  fa- 
mous mountain  heights  are  in  the  same 
region  as  the  Natural  Bridge.  They 
lie  in  the  County  of  Bedford,  10  miles 
from  the  village  of  Liberty,  and  85 
miles  from  Lynchburg — ^railway  from 
Bichmond  to  Lynchburg,  and  thence  by 
stage. 

The  summits  of  the  Peaks  of  Otter 
are  about  two  miles  apart.    The  north- 


m 


▼nMiitiA. 


TkcPMktoTOttor. 


•ni  mountain  rliM  4,S00  feet  abofe  the 
pkUn,  and  &,80f  aboTe  the  ms.  It  ia 
the  ■otttbern  or  conical  peali  wUcli  ia 
moat  often  aaceaded. 

**  After  ridinff  about  a  anarttr  of  a 
mile,**  saya  a  tlaitor  to  tbeae  pealia, 
**  we  came  to  the  point  bevond  which 
horaea  cannot  be  taken,  and  diamoont- 
ing  our  ateeda,  commenced  aacending 
on  ibot ;  the  way  waa  Terr  ateep,  and 
the  day  ao  warm  that  we  nad  to  halt 
often  to  take  breath.  Aa  we  approached 
(he  aummit,  the  treea  were  all  of 
a  dwarflah  nowth,  and  twiated  and 
gnarled  by  the  atorma  of  that  high  re- 
gion. There  were  alao  a  few  blaclt- 
berry  buahea,  bearing  their  fruit  long 
after  the  aeaaon  had  paiaed  below.  A 
few  minutea  lAnser  brou|(ht  oa  to  where 
the  treea  eeaaed  to  grow ;  biit  a  huge 
maaa  of  rooka,  tiled  wildly  on  top  of 
each  othW|  llnlahed  the  termination  of 
the  peak.  Oar  path  Uy  for  aome  dia- 
tance  around  the  baae  of  it,  and  under 
the  OTorhanging  iMttlementa.  and  rather 
deacending  for  a  while,  until  it  led  to  a 
part  of  tiM  1^  wMch  could  with  aome 
oflbrt  be  acaJed.  There  waa  no  ladder, 
nor  any  artificial  atepa,  and  the  only 
meana  of  aacent  waa  byclimbing  over 
the  aacceadve  rocka.  We  aoon  stood 
upon  the  wild  platform  of  one  of  na- 
tnre*a  moat  magnificent  obaenratoriea, 
iaolated  and  apparently  aboTe  all  thinga 
else  terreatrial,  and  looking  down  upon 
and  orer  a  beautiful,  variegated,  and  at 
the  same  time  grand,  wild,  wonderAiI, 
and  almost  boundleaa  panorama.  In- 
deed, it  waa  literally  boundleaa,  for 
therv  waa  n  considerable  haze  resting 
upon  some  parts  of  the  'world  below/ 
ao  that,  in  the  distant  horizon,  the 
earth  and  sky  seemed  insentdblr  to 
mingle  with  each  other.  I  had  been 
Aere  before.  I  remember,  when  a  boy 
of  little  more  than  ten  year*  old,  to 
have  been  taken  to  that  spot,  and  how 
my  unpractised  nerrea  foraook  me  at 
the  sublimity  of  the  scene. 

**0n  this  day  it  waa  aa  new  as  erer ; 
aa  wild,  wonderfiil  and  sublime  aa  if  I 
had  never  before  looked  from  those 
iaolated  rocks,  or  stood  on  that  awAil 
gnrnmit.    On  one  dde,  towards  Eaatem 


Virginia,'*  lay  a  comparatively  level 
country  in  the  distance,  bearing  atrong 
reaemblance  to  the  ocean ;  on  the  other 
hand  were  rangea  of  high  moontainft 
tntaraperaed  witn  cultivated  apota,  and 
then  terminating  in  pUea  of  mountaina. 
f<^owhig  in  aucceaaive  rangea,  un^ 
they  were  loat  also  In  the  haze.  Abova 
and  below,  the  BIm  RidM  and  AHe- 
rtaniea  run  off 'in  long  Unea;  aome- 
timea  relieved  by  knoUa  and  pealu,  and 
in  one  place  above  ua  making  a  .grace- 
ftd  curve,  and  then  again  runmag  off  in 
a  different  line  of  diraction. 

"Yerv  near  ua  stood  the  toonded 
top  of  the  other  peak,  looking  like  a 
auUen  sentinel  for  ita  neighbor. 

**We  paused  in  rilence  for  a  time. 
We  were  there  almost  cut  off  ftxmi  the 
worid  below,  standing  where  it  waa 
fearftd  even  to  look  down.  It  waa 
more  hazy  than  at  the  time  of  my  last 
visit,  but  not  so  much  ao  aa  to  dealroy 
the  intereat  of  the  scene. 

"  There  was  almoat  a  aenae  of  pain  at 
the  atillnesa  which  aeemed  to  reign. 
We  could  hear  the  flamdnga  of  tlie 
wfaiga  of  the  hawlca  and  the  buaaards,  aa 
they  seemed  to  be  gathering  a  new  im 
petus  after  sailing  through  one  of  their 
circles  in  the  air  below  ua.  North  of 
us,  and  on  the  other  side  of  the  Valley 
of  Virginia,  were  the  mountaina  Mar 
Lexington,  just  aa  aeen  from  that . 
beautiftil  village — the  Jump,  North  and 
House  mountuns  succeeding  each  other. 
They  were  femiliar  with  a  thousand  aa> 
sooiations  of  our  childhood,  seeming 
mysteriously,  when  away  from  the  apo^ 
to  brine  my  early  home  before  me — not 
in  imaf^tion,  such  as  had  often  haunt* 
ed  me  when  I  first  left  to  find  anotlier 
in  the  world,  but  in  substantial  rMtlity. 
Further  on  down  the  valley,  and  at  a 
great  distance,  was  the  top  of  a  laige 
mountdn,  which  was  thought  to  be  the 
Great  North  Mountain,  away  down  in 
Shenandoah  County.  I  am  afrdd  to 
aay  how  far  off.  Intermediate  between^ 
these  mountains,  and  extending  oppo> 
site  and  fer  above  us,  waa  the  VaUey 
of  Virginia,  with  its  numerous  and 
highly  cultivated  farms.  Acrosa  this 
vaUey,  and  in  the  Stance,  lay  the  re- 


TttQUnA. 


9H 


-i-i- 


moM  nngM  of  the  Alleghanj  and 
moontalu  about,  and,  I  lappoM,  be- 
yond th«  White  SolphurSprinM.  Nearer 
w,  and  leparating  Eaatem  and  Weatem 
yii|(lnla,  waa  the  Bloe  Ridge,  more 
than  oTor  ihowing  the  proprietjr  of  ita 
oononten  of  the  *  back  bone,'  and  on 
wueh  we  ooold  diatinctly  aee  two  lig^ 
sag  tumpilcea,  the  one  leading  to  Fin- 
eaStle  and  the  other  to  Buchanan,  and 
OTer  which  hitter  we  had  trarelled  a 
few  dari  before.  With  the  ipy-glaM 
we  could  diatinguiah  the  houaea  in  the 
Tillage  of  FincaaUe,  aome  twenty-flTC 
or  thirty  milea  off,  and  the  road  leading 
to  the  town.  Turning  towarda  die  di- 
rection of  our  moming*a  ride,  we  had 
beneath  us  Bedford  County,  with  its 
amaller  mountains,  &rms  and  farm- 
houses, the  beautiM  viUage  of  Liberty, 
the  county  roads,  and  occasionally  a 
mill-pond,  reflecting  the  aun  lilce  a  aheet 
of  poUahed  aUver.  The  houses  on  the 
hill  at  Lynchburg,  twenty-fire  or  thirty 
milea  distant,  are  distinctlr  visible  on  a 
dear  day,  and  also  Wilus'  mountain, 
away  down  in  Buckingham  County. 
The  towist  may  take  a  carriage  from 
Liberty  or  at  Buchanan,  to  the  Peinkfl. 
A  fine  well-graded  turnpike  leads  thence 
and  a  good  hotel  is  at  the  base  of  the 
monntMn. 

Wolrti  Onw*.  This  wonderful  place, 
scarcely  inferior  in  its  mysterious  gran- 
deur to  the  celebrated  Mammoth  Cave 
of  Kentucky,  is  in  the  north-eastern 
comer  of  Augusta  County,  Va.,  1*7  miles 
from  Staunton  (o)a  the  Central  Bailway), 
10  milea  from  Waynesboro',  8  miles 
from  Mount  Siclney,  14  miles  from  Har^ 
risburg,  and  82  from  CharlottesTille  and 
the  University  of  Yiivinia.— Take  the 
Central  Bailway  from  fiichmond,  or  the 
Orange  and  Alexandria  from  Washing- 
ton City  to  GordonsviUe  and  the  Cen- 
tral Railway  onward  to  Staunton : 
thence  by  stage  VJ  miles  to  the  Cave. 

Weir's  Cave  (sometimes  written 
We^$)j  was  named  after  Bernard 
Wever,  who  discovered  it  in  1804, 
while  in  chase  of  a  wild  animal  who  fled 
thither  for  escape.  Many  of  the  count- 
less apartmenta  in  tjuis  grand  subter- 
ranean oastle  are  of  ezqu&te  beanty — 


others  again  are  magnlflcent  In  their 
grand  extent  Washington  Hall,  tho 
brgeat  chamber.  Is  no  less  than  260 
feet  in  length.  A  traveller  viaiting  tha 
cave  on  the  occasion  of  an  annual  illu- 
mination, thua  deseribes  this  noble 
apartment : 

**  There  Is  a  fine  sheet  of  rock-work 
mnninff  Up  the  centre  of  th|s  room,  and 
l^vbg  It  the  aapect  of  two  separate  and 
noble  galleries,  till  you  look  above, 
where  you  observe  the  partition  rises 
only  twenty  feet  towarda  the  roo^  and 
leaves  the  fine  arch  expanding  over 
your  head  untouched.  There  is  a  beau- 
tifVd  connection  here  atanding  out  In 
the  room,  which  certainly  has  the  form 
and  drapery  of  a  aigantio  atatue ;  It 
bears  the  name  of  tne  Nation's  Hero; 
and  the  whole  place  is  filled  with  these 
pri^ections— «ppearanoe8  which  excito 
the  Imagination 'by  aucgeating  resem- 
bhmcea,  and  leaving  them  uminished. 
The  eeneral  eflRtct,  too,  waa  perhapa  In- 
deacnbable.  The  fine  perspective  of 
this  room,  four  times  the  length  of  an 
ordinary  church ;  the  numerous  taperSi 
when  near  you,  so  enonmbered  bv  deep 
shadows  as  to  give  <mly  a  dim,  rragioua 
light,  and  when  at  a  distance,  appear- 
ing in  their  varloua  attitudes  like  twink- 
ling stars  on  a  deep,  dark  heaven ;  the 
anuuing  vaulted  roof  spread  over  yon^ 
with  its  carved  and  knotted  aurfiuse,  to 
which  the  streaming  Ughta  below  |n 
vain  endeavored  to  convey  their  radi- 
ance; together  with  the  impression 
that  you  had  made  so  deep  an  en- 
tnmce,  and  were  so  entirely  cut  off 
from  the  living  worid  and  ordinary 
things,  produces  an  eifect  which,  per- 
haps, the  mind  can  receive  but  oncOi 
and  wiU  retain  for  ever." 

"  Weir's  Cave,"  says  the  same  writeiv 
"  is,  in  my  judgment,  one  of  the  great 
natural  wonders  of  this  new  worid,  and 
for  its  eminence  in  its  own  class,  de- 
serves to  be  ranked  with  the  Natural 
Bridge  and  IHagara,  while  it  Is  far  less 
known  than  either.  Its  dUmendons,  by 
the  most  direct  course,  are  more  than 
1,600  feet,  and  by  the  more  winding 
paths,  twice  that  lencth ;  and  its  objects 
are  remarkable  fw  weir  variety,  formft^ 


iCtdlaon's  OaTA— Blowlog  Oftve— Hawk's  Nest 


tion  and  beauty.  In  both  respects,  it 
will,  I  think,  compare,  "without  iqjury 
to  itself,  with  the  celebrated  Grotto  of 
Antiparofl.  For  myself,  I  acknowledge 
the  spectacle  to  have  been  most  inter- 
esting ;  but  to  be  so,  it  must  be  illu- 
minated as  on  this  occasion.  I  had 
thought  that  this  circumstance  m^ht 
give  the  whole  a  toyish  effect ;  but  the 
influence  of  2,000  or  8,000  lights  on 
these  immense  caverns  is  only  such  as 
to  reveal  the  objects,  without  disturb- 
ing the  solemn  and  sublime  obscurity 
which  sleeps  on  every  thing.  Scarcely 
any  scenes  can  awaken  so  many  pas- 
sions at  once,  and  so  deeply.  Curiosity, 
apprehension,  terror,  surprise,  admira- 
tion, and  delight,  by  tvbis  and  together 
arrest  and  possess  you.  I  have  bad 
before,  from  other  objeots,one  simple  im- 
pression made  with  greater  power ;  but 
I  never  had  so  many  impressions  malle, 
and  with  so  much  power,  before.  If 
the  interesting  and  the  awAil  are  the 
elements  of  the  subUme,  here  sublimity 
reigns,  as  in  her  own  domain,  in  dark- 
ness, fdlence,  and  deeps  profound." 

Madiaon'i  Oftwe  is  within  a  few 
hundred  yards  of  Weirds.  It  is  thus 
described*  by  Mr.  Jefferson,  in  his 
"  Notes  on  Virginia :  '* 

'^  It  is  on  the  north  dde  of  the  Blue 
Bidge,  near  the  intersection  of  the 
Rockingham  and  Augusta  line  with  the 
south  fork  of  the  southern  river  of  She- 
nandoah. It  is  in  a  hill  of  about  200 
feet  perpendicular  height,  the  ascent 
of  which  on  one  side  is  so  steep,  that 
you  may  pitch  a  biscuit  from  its  sum- 
mit into  the  river  which  washes  its 
base.  The  entrance  of  the  cave  is  in 
this  side,  about  two-thirds  of  the  way 
up.  It  extends  into  the  earth  about 
800  feet,  branching  into  subordinate 
caverns,  sometimes  ascending  a  little, 
but  more  generally  descending,  and  at 
length  terminates  in  two  different  places 
at  basins  of  water  of  unknown  extent, 
and  which  I  should  judge  to  be  nearly 
on  a  level  with  the  water  of  the  river ; 
however,  I  do  not  think  they  are  formed 
by  refluent  water  from  that,  because 
they  are  never  turbid ;  because  they  do 
not,  rise  and  M  in  correspondence  with 


that'in  times  of  flood,  or  of  drought,, 
and  because  the  water  is  always  cool.. 
It  is  probably  one  of  the  many  reser 
voire  with  wmch  the  interior  parts  of 
the  earth  are  supposed  to  abound.  The 
vault  of  this  cave  is  of  solid  limestone, 
from  20  to  40  or  60  feet  high,  through 
which  water  b  continually  percolating. 
This,  trickling  down  the  udes  of  the 
cave,  has  encrusted  them  over  in  the 
form  of  elegant  drapery ;  and  dripping 
from  the  top  of  the  vault  generates  on 
that,  and  on  the  base  below,  stalactites 
of  a  conical  form,  some  of  which  have 
met  and  formed  massive  columns." 

The  Blowing  Onwe  is  on  the  stage 
road  between  the  Rockbridge  and  the 
Bath  Alum  Springs,  one  n^  west  of 
the  village  of  Mliboro'.  It  is  in  a  high 
ledge  near  the  bank  of  the  Cow  Pasture 
River.  The  entrance  to  the  Gave  is 
semicircular  and  about  four  feet  high, 
elevated  SO  or  40  feet  above  the'  road 
below.  When  the  internal  and  external 
atmosphere  is  the  same,  there  is  no  per- 
ceptible current  issuing  from  it.  In 
intense  hot  weather,  the  air  comes  out 
with  so  much  force  as  to  prostrate  the 
Weeds  at  the  entrance.  In  intense  cold 
weather,  the  air  draws  in.  There  is  a 
Mowing  and  Ebbing  Spring  on  tiie  same 
stream  with  the  Blowing  Cave,  which 
supplies  water-power  for  a  grist-mill,  a 
distillery  and  a  tannery.  It  flows  irreg- 
ularly. When  it  commences  the  water 
bursts  out  ill  a  body,  as  if  let  loose  from 
a  dam.  Mr.  Jefferson  called  this  a  Sy- 
phon Fountain.  There  are  two  others 
of  the  kind  in  Virginia— one  in  Brooks 
Gap,  in  Rockingham  County,  and  the 
other  near  the  mouth  of  the  NorUi 
Holston. 

The  EbwlAi  kfiMrti  sometimes  called 
MarshalPs  Pillar,  is  on  New  River,  in 
Fayette  County,  a  few  rods  only  from 
the  road  leading  from  Guyandotte  on 
the  Ohio,  to  the  White  Sulphur  Springs 
—96  mUes  ftom  Guyandotte,  and  64 
miles  from  the  Springs.  It  is  an  im- 
mense pillar  of  rock,  with  a  vertical 
height  of  1,000  feet  above  the  bed  of 
the  river.  Thus  writes  a  foreign  tour- 
ist of  this  impressive  picture : 

Tou  leave  the  road  by  a  little  by^ 


vntannA. 


241 


The  loe  Mountain— Salt  Pond— Gaad7*a  Oaaflo. 


'  drought,, 
rays  oooL 
any  reser 
parts  of 
und.  The 
limestone, 
I,  throvgh 
ircolati^. 
lea  of  the 
rer  in  the 
1  dripinng 
lerates  on 
stabctites 
hich  havf 
nms.** 
the  stage 
;e  and  the 
e  west  of 
1  in  9,  high 
)W  Pasture 
e  Oare  is 
feet  high, 
the' road 
d  external 
)isnoper- 
m  it.    In 
comes  out 
tstrate  the 
tense  cold, 
There  is  a 
1  the  same 
Te,  wluch 
list-mill,  a 
ows  irreg* 
the  water 
oose  from 
this  a  Sy- 
vo  others 
hi  Brooks 
and  the 
le  North 

nes  called 
River,  in 
»nly  from 
ndotte  on 
r  Springs 
,  and  64 
)  an  im- 
vertieal 
le  bed  of 
ign  tour- 
little  hj- 


Satii,  and  after  pursuing  it  for  a  short 
istance,  the  whole  scene  suddenly 
brealcB  upon  you.  But  how  shall  we 
describe  it  f  The  great  charm  of  the 
whole  is  connected  with  the  point  of 
sight,  which  is  the  finest  imaginable. 
Tou  come  suddenly  to  a  spot  which  is 
cidled  the  Hawk's  Nest.  It  projects  on 
the  scene,  and  is  so  small  as  to  give 
Btanding  only  to  some  half  dozen  per- 
sons. It  has  on  its  head  an  old  pictu- 
resque pine ;  and  it  breaks  away  at  ^our 
feet  abruptly  and  in  perpendicular  hues, 
to  a  depth  of  more  than  1,000  feet.  On 
this  standing,  which,  by  its  elevated 
and  detached  character,  affects  you  like 
the  monument,  the  forest  .rises  above 
and  around  you.  Beneath  and  before 
you  is  spifead  a  lovely  valley.  A  peace- 
ful river  gUdes  down  it,  reflecting,  like  a 
mirror,  afi  the  lights  of  heaven,  washes 
the  foot  of  the  roclu  on  which  you 
are  standing,  and  then  winds  away 
into  another  valley  at  ydur  right.  The 
trees  of  the  wood,  in  all  their  variety, 
stand  out  on  the  verdant  bottoms,  with 
their  heads  in  the  sun,  and  casting  their 
shadows  at  your  feet,  but  so  diminished 
as  to  look  more  like  the  pictures  of  the 
things  than  the  things  themselves.  The 
green  hills  rise  on  either  hand  and  all 
around,  and  give  completeness  and 
beauty  to  the  scene ;  and  beyond  these 
appears  the  gray  outline  of  the  more 
distant  mountains,  bestowing  grandeur 
to  what  was  supremely  beautiful  It  is 
exquisite.  It  conveys  tc  you  the  idea 
of  perfect  solitude.  The  hand  of  man, 
the  foot  of  man,  seem  never  to  have 
touched  that  valley.  To  you,  though 
placed  in  tha  midst  of  it,  it  seems  alto- 
gether inaccessible.  Tou  long  to  stroll 
aloEg  the  margin  of  those  sweet  waters, 
and  repose  under  the  shadows  of  those 
beautiful  trees  *,  but  it  looks  impossible. 
It  is  solitude,  but  of  a  most  soothing, 
not  of  an  appalling  character,  where 
sorrow  might  learn  to  forget  her  griefs, 
and  folly  begin  to  be  wise  and  happy.** 
The  loe  Mountain  is  a  remarkable 
natwral  curiosity,  in  the  county  of 
Hampshire.  It  is  upon  the  North  River 
(eastern  bank),  26  miles  north-west  of 
Winchester.  May  be  reached  from  Bid- 
11 


timore  by  Baltimore  and  Oluo  Railway 
to  Harper's  Ferry,  by  ndlway  thence  to 
Winchester,  from  Winchester  by  stage. 

The  Ice  Mountain  rises  60p  feet  above 
the  river.  **  The  west  side,  for  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile,"  says  Mr.  Howe,  in  his 
History  of  Virginia,  *'  is  covered  with  a 
mass  of  loose  stone,  of  a  light  color, 
which  reaches  down  to  the  bank  of  the 
river.  By  removing  the  loose  stone, 
fine  erytai  ice  can  uways  be  found  in 
the  warmest  days  of  summer.  It  has 
been  discovered  even  as  late  as  the  16th 
of  September:  but  never  in  October, 
although  it  may  exist  throughout  the.en- 
tire  year,  and  be  found,  if  the  rocks  were 
excavated  to  a  sufficient  depth.  The 
body  of  rocks  where  the  ice  is  found,  is 
subject  to  the  fhll  rays  of  the  sun,  from 
nine  o'clock  in  the  morning  untU  sun- 
set. The  sun  does  not  have  the  effect 
of  melting  the  ice  as  much  as  continued 
rains.  At  the  base  of  the  mountain  is 
a  spring  of  water,  colder  by  many  de- 
grees than  spring  water  generally  is.'* 

The  Salt  Pood  is  a  charming  lake, 
on  the  summit  of  Salt  Pond  Mountain, 
one  of  the  highest  peaks  of  the  Alle- 
ghany. It  is  m  Giles  County,  10  miles 
east  of  Parisburg  and  five  miles  from 
the  Hygeian  Springs.  This  Pond  (we 
again  quote  from  Mr.  Howe)  "  is  about 
a  mile  long,  and  one-third  of  a  mile 
wide.  At  its  termination  it  is  dammed 
by  a  huge  pile  of  rocks,  over  which  it 
runs ;  but  which  once  passed  through 
the  fissures  only.  In  the  spring  and 
summer  of  1804,  immense  quantities  of 
leaves  and  other  rubbish  washed  in  and 
filled  up  the  fissures,  since  which  it  haa 
risen  ^U  26  feet.  Previous  to  that 
time,  it  was  fed  by  a  fine  large  spring 
at  its  head ;  that  then  disappeared,  and 
several  small  springs  now  flow  into  it  at 
its  upper  end.  THien  first  known,  it 
was  the  resort  of  vast  numbers  of  elk, 
buffalo,  deer,  and  other  wild  animals^ 
for  drink."  The  waters  of  this  Pond 
have  not,  despite  its  name,  any  saline 
taste;  on  the  contrary,  it  abounds  in 
fine  fresh  trout  and  other  fish. 

Oaudy'a  Oaatle  (Howe)  "was  so 
named  from  having  been  the  retreat  of 
an  earlv  settler,  when  pursued  by  the 


•i 


i42 


NORTH  OABOUKA. 

^<qM)gnphieal  and  HIatoiloal  Msntioii. 


Indians.  It  is  the  fragment  of  a  moun- 
tain, in  the  shape  of  a  half  cone,  with  a 
very  narrow  base,  which  rises  from  the 
banks  of  the  Capon  to  the  height  of 
about  600  feet,  and  presents  a  subUme 
and  majestic  appearance.  Caudy'a  Cm- 
tUy  as  also  the  Tea  Table  and  the  Hang- 
ing Jioeka,  mentioned  below,  may  m 
be  visited  from  the  Capon  Springs. 

«•  The  Tea  TftUs  is  about  ten  miles 
front  Caudy's  Castle,  In  a  deep,  ru^ed 
glen,  three  or  four  miles  east  of  the 
Capon.  It  is  about  four  feet  in  height, 
and  the  same  in  diameter.  From  the 
top  issues  a  clear  stream  of  water, 
which  flows  over  the  brim  on  all 
eides,  and  forms  a  foudtain  of  e xquidte 
.beauty. 

«•  *nie  Hanging  Boeka  are  about 


four,  miles  north  of  Romney.  There 
the  Wappatomka  River  has  cut  its  w^ 
through  the  mountain  of  about  500  feet 
in  height.  The  boldness  of  the  rocks 
and  the  wildness  of  tiie  scene  surprise 
the  beholder. 

A  bloody  battle,  says  tradition,  iraa 
once  fought  at  the  Hanging  Rocks,  be- 
tween contending  parties  of  the  Cataw- 
ba and  Delaware  Indians,  and  it  is 
believed  that  several  hundred  of  the 
latter  were  slaughtered.  Indeed,  the 
signs  now  to  be  seen  at  this  place  ex- 
hibit striking  evidence  of  the  fact. — 
There  is  a  row  of  Indian  graves  between 
the  rocks  and  public  road,  along  the 
margin  of  %he  river,  of  from  60  to  70 
yards  in  length.  It  is  believed  that 
very  few  of  the  Delawares  eseaped.** 


-; ;. 


NORTH  CAROLmA. 

North  Carolina. — Much  less  romantic  interest  possesses  the  public  mind, 
though  not  justly,  in  regard  to  this  State,  than  almost  any  other  of  the  Old 
Thirteen. 

The  history  of  the  region  does  not,  to  be  sure,  present  many  very  brilliant 
points,  although  attempts  to  colonize  it  were  made  at  a  very  early  day— as  long 
ago  as  1686-9,  and  by  Sir  Walter  Raleigh — t^nd  though  the  peo^e  were  engaged 
like  their  neighbors,  in  bloody  struggles  with  the  Indian  tribM.  Tet  the  Stat^  dld- 
memorable  service  in  the  Revolution,  and  especially  in  being  the  first  publicly  and 
solemnly  to  renounce  allegiance  to  the  British  crown,  which  she  did  in  the  famous 
Mecklenburg  Declaration  of  Independence,  May  20th,  1716— more  than  a  year 
befcffe  the  snnilar  formal  assertion  of  the  other  States. 

In  picturesque  attraction,  the  State  is  popularly  considered  to  be  wholly  desti- 
tute ;  an  impression  which  results  from  an  erroneous  estimate  of  her  topography, 
which  traveUers  in  the  course  of  years  have  made,  from  the  uninteresting  forest 
travel  in  the  eastern  portion,  traversed  by  the  great  railway  thoroughfare  tnm 
the  Northern  to  the  Southern  States ;  the  only  highway  until  within  very  late 
years,  and  to  this  day  the  only  one  very  much  in  use. 

The  Pine,  or  Eastern  part  of  North  Carolina,  stretching  sixty  miles  inland,  is 
a  Tast  plain,  sandy,  and  overrun  with  interminable  forests  of  pine.  Tet  this 
wilderness  is  not  without  points  and  impressions  of  interest  to  the  tourist,  more 
particularly  when  it  is  broken,  as  it  often  is,  by  great  stretches  of  dank  marsh, 
sometimes  opening  into  mystical-looking  lakes,  as  on  the  Little  Dismal  Swamp, 
lying  between  Pamlico  and  Albemarle  Sounds,  and  in  the  Great  Dismal  Swamp, 
which  the  State  shares  with  Virginia.  Then  in  these  woods  we  may  watch  the 
]>roce8s  of  the  gathering  Of  the  sap  of  the  pines,  for  those  &mous  sta|de  manu- 
factures, 'Har,  pitch  and  turpentine." 
"  The  Coast,  too,  of  North  Carolina  is  one  of  the  most  celebrated  on  the  West- 
em  borders  of  the  Atlantic— the  one  most  watched  and  feared  by  mariners  and 
all  Voyagers,  that  upon  which  the  dreaded  capes,  Hatteras  and  Lookout  and  Fear 
are  found. 


iKOXtB.  OABi&LtSA, 


i        248 


jr.  There 
at  Its  yrtfy 
it  600  feet 
the  rock0 
e  surprise 

lition,  iraa 
[locks,  be* 
he  Cataw- 
and  it  is 
Bd  of  the 
deed,  the 

place  ex- 
ile fact. — 
s  between 
along  the 

60  to  70 
eved  that 
taped.** 


Mineral  Prodneto BlTWfc 


blio  mind, 
of  the  Old 

7  brilliant 
f — as  long 
e  engaged 
3  Stat^  did- 
iblicly  and 
;he  famous 
lan  a  year 

lolly  desti- 
pography, 
Ing  forest 
ifare  from 
I  very  late 

I  inland,  is 
Tet  this 
irist,  more 
nfc  marsh, 
b1  Swamp, 
kl  Swamp, 
watch  the 
i|demantt- 

the  West- 
iriners  and 
t  and  Fear 


While  the  innumenMe  bays  and  shoals  and  islands  are  thus  cautiouisly  ayoid- 
ed  by  fhe  passing  mariners,  they  are  as  eagerly  sought  by  the  fisherman  and  the 
gportitnaiu  Immeuseqiaaiitities  of  Ihad  ud  herring  and  other  fish  are  taken 
line,  uid  the  dstwiries  of  the  rivers  and  tiie  bays  are  among  ithe  &Torite 
resorts  of  wOd  fowl  of  every  species ;  making  tiiis  ooast  seoroely  less  attractive, 
to  the  sportsman,  than  is  the  Ohesapeake  Bay  and  the  shore  of  Long  bland. 

The  Interior  of  the  State  is  a  rude,  hilly  coontry,  which,  though  it  is  not  at 
present,  may  yet  be,  softened  into  the  bloojning  beauty  of  New  England.  Be- 
yond  tp.the  Westward,  lies  the  great  mountain  district,  which,  when  it  comes  to 
be  better  known,  as  the  r^lways  now  approaching  it  from  all  rides  promise  that 
it  soon  will  be,  will  place  the  State  in  public  estimation  among  the  most  strikingly 
picturesque  portions  of  the  Union.  Two  great  ridges  of  the  Alieghanies  traverse 
this  grand  region,  somie  of  their  peaks  imng  to  we  noblest  heights,  and  one  of 
them  reaching  a  greater  altitude  than  any  summit  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountdns. 
W?;  1  br<H>ks  innumerable  and  of  the  richest  beauty^  water^falls  of  wonderful  de- 
tgh>  onrl  valleys  lovely  enough  for  loveliest  dreams,  are  seen  in  this, yet  almost 
y.'"<'  (  land.  We  shall  lead  our  traveller  thither  anon;  after  a  tfttle  longer 
gi'  ,  V  ?.i  the  general  characteristics  of  the  country;  at  the  fptdlities  for  loco* 
mokiou  which  are  at  command,  and  after  a  brief  vimt  to  places  and  scenes  in  tiie 
eastern  and  middle  sectioius  of  the  State. 

Mineral  products  of  great  variety  and  value  are  found  in  Nortii  Carolina,  as 
in  the  neighboring  mountain  districts  of  South  Carolina  and  Georgia.  Until  the 
^covery  of  the  auriferous  lands  of  California,  this  was  the  most  abundant  gold 
tract  in  the  United  States.  The  mines  here  of  this  monarch  of  metals  h^e  been 
|Hrofit»biy  worked  for  many  years.  At  the  branch  mint  at  Charlotte,  in  the 
mining  re^on,  gold  was  coined,  between  and  including  the  years  1888  and  1868, 
to  the  vidue  of  no  less  than  |8,'790,038 ;  the  highest  annual  product  bebg 
$1196,734,  in  the  year  1852. 

The  Copper  lands  of  the  State,  says  Professor  Jackson,  are  unparalleled  in 
richness.  Goal,  too,  both  bituminous  and  anthradte,  is  found  here  in  great 
abunduice,  i^nd  of  the  finest  quality.  Iron  ore  also  e:dsts  throughout  the  moun* 
tain  districts.  Limestone  and  Freestone  may  be  had  in  inexhkustible  supply. 
Marl  is  abundant  in  all  the  counties  on  the  coast,  and  rilver,  lead,  manganese, 
salt  and  gypsum  have  been  discovered. 

The  rivers  of  North  Carolina  haVe  no  very  marked  picturesque  character, 
except  the  mountidn  streams  in  the  west,  where,  berides  other  charming 
waters,  the  shores  of  the  Beach  Road  for  forty  miles,  are  unsurpassed  in  bold 
and  obangeM  beauty.  The  greater  number  of  the  rivers  run  from  200  to  400 
miles,  in  a  south-east  Erection  through  the  State  to  the  Atlantic.  A  few  small 
streams  empty  into  the  Tennessee.  The  Roanoke  and  the  Chowan  extend  from 
VirgiiUa  to  Albemarle  Sound.  The  Cape  Fear  Kver  traverses  the  State  and  enters 
the  sea  near  the  southern  extremity  of  the  State.  Travellers  by  the  old  steamer 
rbute  from  Wilmington  to  Charleston,  will  remember  the  passage  of  this  river 
from  the  former  place,  26  miles  to  its  mouth  at  Smithvitte. 

"(Q«(«2  6«attjMiy«rexpldmed  a  visitor  from  Guadaloupe,  as  he  entered  this 
stream  from  the  sea,  and  looked  out  upon  its  white  sandy  i^ores  luxuriant  with 
the  trailine  foliage  of  the  live-oak. 

**  *  Quel  oeau  pays '  1'*  echoed  the  captain  of  the  incoming  barque,  in  surprise ; 
"  do  you,  just  from  the  grand  mountains  and  valleys  of  Guadaloupe,  caU  this 
miserable  flat  re^on  a  beautiM  country  f^ 

"For  that  very  reason,  mon  ami.  It  is  exactlv  because  I  have  so  long  seen 
onlv  mountuns  and  valleys  that  these  beautiftdly  wooded  [dains,  so  new  to  my 
dght,  and  in  such  direct  contrast  with  all  I  have  ever  gazed  upon  before,  charm 
me  so  much.    Mon  Dleu,  quel  beau  ]paysl**  * 


S44 


irOBXH  OABOLIK A. 


BaUmyi—Baleigh— Wilmington. 


The  reader  will  understand  our  anecdote  according  to  the  teachings  of  his  own 
experience. 

The  Neuse  and  the  famous  Tar  Rivers  come  from  the  Jiorth  to  FamUco  Sounds 
The  Yadkin  and  the  Oatawba  enter  South  Carolina,  and  are  there  caUed,  one  the 
Great  Pedee,  and  the  othe^  the  Wateree.  These  and  the  other  rivers  of  this 
State  are  so  greatly  obstructed  at  their  mouths  by  sand  banks,  and  above  by 
rapids  and  fiilu,  that  their  waters  are  not  navigable  for  any  great  distance,  or 
by  any  other  than  small  craft.  Vessels  drawing  ten  or  twelve  feet  of  water 
ascend  the  Gape  Fear  River  as  far  as  Wilmington,  and  steamboats  yet  beyond 
to  Fayetteville.  Steamboats  sdl  vip  the  Neuse  120  miles,  to  Waynesboro',  up 
the  1^  100  miles,  to  Tarborough,  the  Roanoke  120  miles,  to  HaUikx,  and  up 
the  Chowan  16  miles. 


Railwnyfc— The  Wilmington  and 
Weldon  road,  162  miles  long,  traverses 
the  entire  breadth  of  t!he  State,  in  the 
eastern  portion,  from  Weldon  through 
£Dilifax,  Brattlel>orough,  Rocky  Mount, 
Joyners,  Wilson,  Nahiiata,  Goldsboro' 
Mt.,  Mount  Olive,  Faison's,  Strickland's, 
Teaohey's,  Washhigton,  and  Bordeaux, 
to  Wiuoington.  It  is  a  link  in  the 
great  mul  route  from  the  Northern  to 
tiie  Southern  cities.  Railways  also  di- 
verge from  the  above  line  to  Raleigh. 
The  Raleigh  and  Gaston  road  from 
Weldon,  97  miles,  and  the  North  Caro- 
lina road,  from  Goldsboro*,  48  miles. 
This  road  continues  on  from  Raleigh, 
through  Hillsboro',  Graham,  Greens- 
borough,  Lenngton,  Salisbury,  and 
intermediate  stations,  to  Charlotte,  1*76 
miles  beyond  Raleigh.  At  Charlotte  it 
unites  with  the  railway  system  of  South 
Carolina. 

The  Raleigh  and  Gaston  railway  ex- 
tends (with  connecting  Unks)  from 
Weldon,  on  the  Great  Northern  and 
Southern  mail  route,  97  miles,  to  Ra- 
leigh. 

The  Roanoke  Yalley  road  deflects 
from  the  Raleigh  and  Gaston,  and  unites 
with  the  Virginia  routes. 

The  North  Carolina  and  N.  C.  Cen- 
tral Railways  extend  from  Goldsboro', 
on  the  Great  Northern  and  Southern 
route,  to  Raleigh,  48  miles,  and  thence 
north-west  via  Hillsboro',  Graham,  etc., 
to  Greenboro' ;  thence  southwardly  to 
Charlotte,  uniting  with  the  South  Caro- 
Una  rdlways.  Distance  from  Raleigh 
to  Charlotte  176  miles. 

Other  routes  are  now  in  progress, 


which  will  traverse  ail  the  western  parts 
of  the  State,  and  unite  the  eastern  and 
middle  districts,  at  many  points,  with 
the  railways  of  Tennessee  and  the  Great 
West. 

Raleigli.  from  New  Tork,  by  the 
Great  Southern  line  of  ndlway,  through 
Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  Washington, 
and  Richmond,  to  Weldon,  N.  C,  thence 
by  the  Raleigh  and  Gaston  Railway. 
Distance  from  Washington,  286  miles ; 
from  Weldon,  97  miles.  From  Charles- 
ton, S.  C,  by  the  great  mail  route,  to 
Goldsboro',  N.  C,  on  the  Wilmington 
and  Weldon  link ;  thence  by  the  North 
Carolina  Central  Rulway. 

Raleigh,  the  capital  of  North  Caroli- 
na, is  situated  a  little  north-east  of  the 
centre  of  the  State,  nb^r  the  N^use 
River.  It  is  a  pleasant  little  cUy,  on  a 
high  and  healthf\il  position.  Union 
Square  is  an  open  area  of  ten  acres,  oc- 
cupying a  centre,  on  the  sides  of  which 
are  the  principal  streets.  The  State 
House,  which  is  on  this  square,  is  one 
of  the  most  imposing  of  the  Capitols  of 
the  United  States.  It  is  built  of  granite 
after  the  model  of  the  Parthenon,  with 
massive  columns  and  a  grand  dome. 
The  former  State  House  was  destroyed 
by  fire  in  1881,  and  with  it  the  cele- 
brated statue  of  Washington  by  Cano- 
va.  The  State  Lunatic  Asylum  is  here, 
and  the  North  Carolina  Institution  for 
the  Deaf  and  Dumb.    Pop.,  6,000. 

Wilmington,  the  largest,  and  the 
chief  commercial  city  of  North  Caroli- 
na, is  in  the  south-eastern  extremity  of 
the  State,  upon  the  Cape  Fear  River, 
t  84  miles  from  the  sea.    Reached  from 


JL 


VOBTH  OABQLnrA. 


245 


Towns  ud  TtlUges— The  MonntalQ  Begton. 


New  York,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore, 
etc.,  by  the  Great  Southern  route,  upon 
which  it  is  a  prominent  point.  Travel- 
lers from  Gharleston  and  New  Orleans 
formerly  took  the  steamer  here  for  a 
coast  voyage  aa  fkr  as  Gharleston ;  now 
the  route  is  oondnued  by  the  Manches- 
ter and  Wilmington  railway  to  Einss- 
ville,  on  the  Columbia  Branch  of  the 
South  Carolina  road.  A.  more  direct 
way  to  Charleston  will  be  opened  by  the 
North  Eastern  railway,  to  deflect  at  a 
convenient  point  from  the  Wihmngton 
and  Manchester  Une.  This  is  a  busy 
plaee,  foil  of  manufacturing  and  com- 
meroiid  life.  It  oflfers,  however,  no  very 
great  attractions  to  the  traveller  in 
quest  of  the  picturesque,  though  it  play- 
ed a  part  in  the  drama  of  the  Revolu- 
tion. Mfyor  Craig  took  possession  of 
the  town  in  January,  ItSl,  and  occu- 
pied it  until  the  surrender  of  Gornwal- 
lis.    Population  about  11,000. 

Nawbflm,  »» pleasant  old  town  of 
about  S,000  inhabitants,  is  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Neuse  and  the  Trent 
Rivers,  midway  on  the  Atlantic  line  of 
the  State,  60  miles  above  Pamlico 
Sound.  It  may  be  reached  from  Golds- 
boro*  or  other  stations  on  the  Wilming- 
ton andWeldon  link  of  the  main  southern 
line  of  railway.  A  railway  is  in  pro- 
gress from  Ooldsboro*  to  Newbern. 
Distance  from  Raleigh,  by  railway, 
about  ICO  miles;  from  Goldsboro'  it 
will  be  between  60  and  60. 

Fayettevills  is  a  thriving  place  of 
some  8,000  people.  It  is  at  the  head 
of  navigation,  on  Cape  Fear  River,  60 
miles  south  of  Raleigh,  and  100  miles 
above  Wilmington.  Reached  at  present 
on  plank  roads  from  Raleigh,  and  from 
the  Wiknington  and  Weldon  railway. 

Charlotte  is  one  of  the  chief  towns 
in  the  western  part  of  North  Carolina. 
Reached  from  Raleigh  by  the  North 
Carolina  railway,  1*76  miles,  and  from 
Charleston  and  Columbia,  S.  C,  by  the 
South  Carolina  and  Columbia  Branch, 
and  the  Charlotte  and  South  Carolina 
railways;  from  Columbia,  109  miles; 
from  Charleston,  237  miles.  A  plank 
road,  120  miles  long,  connects  this  town 
with  Fayetteville. 


Charlotte  !s  in  the  midst  of  the  gold 
rej^on  of  the  State,  and  is  the  seat  of  a 
United  States  Branch  Mint.  Some  in- 
teresting historical  memories  are  awak- 
ened at  Charlotte.  It  was  here  that 
the  patriots  of  Mecklenburg  County 
assembled  in  convention,  in  I'T'TS,  and 
boldly  passed  a  series  of  resolutions,  de- 
claring themselves  independent  of  the 
British  Crown ;  thus  anticipating  bv  a 

?ear  the  Immortal  Declaration  of  '^e. 
he  British  troops  occupied  the  town 
in  1780,  and  for  a  little  while  il  was  the 
head-quarters  of  the  American  forces. 
Here  General  Greene  took  the  command 
of  the  Southern  army  .from  General 
Gates,  fifty  days  after  the  departure  of 
Cornwallis. 

Battle  of  QoilfiEirdl  Oonrt  Bouae. 
^The  scene  of  this  interesting  event  in 
the  history  of  the  American  Revolu- 
tion, is  in  the  County,  of  Guilford,  in 
the  north-western  part  of  the  State. 

THE  MOUNTAIN  BEOION. 

No  section  of  the  United  States  is 
richer  in  beautiful  landscape  tiian  is  all 
the  western  part  of  North*  Carolina,  tra- 
versed by  some  of  the  noblest  spurs  of 
the  Blue  Ridge.  Turn,  here,  which  way 
you  will,  every  varying  point  presents  a 
picture  of  new  aitd  wonderfU  charm. 

Blaok  Mountain,  20  miles  north- 
east of  A8hville,^ises  to  the  magnifi- 
cent height  of  6,476  feet,  and  is  thus 
the  loftiest  peak  eosi.  of  the  Rocky 
Mountain  ranges.  The  scene  from  its 
crown  is  of  surpassing  grandeur. 

The  Swannanoa  Crap  is  a  magnifi- 
cent mountun  pass,  between  Ashville 
and  Morgantown.  The  Falla  of  tht 
CcUauba  are  hard  by. 

The  Biokory-Nut  Gap  is  another 
grand  clove  on  the  giant  hills,  rich  in 
wonderful  pictures  of  precipices  and 
cascades. 

Pilot  Mountain,  in  Burke  Coun- 
ty, is  a  bold  peak,  almost  isolated  in  the 
midst  of  a  comparatively  level  re^on. 
In  the  olden  time  it  was  the  landmark 
of  the  Indians  in  their  forest  wander- 
ing; hence  its  present  name. 

The  BawVa  Bill,  in  Burke  County, 
is  a  stupendoos  projecting  difT,  looking 


346 


NORIB  OASOUXTA, 


The  Moootdn  Beglon— Fnnoh  Broad  BiTOi. 


•t  .,  < 


Scene  in  the  Bine  Bidge,  N.  0. 


down  1,600  feet  upon  the  waters  of  a 
rushing  river. ' 

The  Talda  RocAe,  a  few  miles  below 
the  Hawk*s  Bill,  rises,  oone-ahaped, 
2,600  feet  above  the  valley  of  the  Ca- 
tawba River.  * 

Tb»  Oingwr  Oake  Book,  also  in 
Burke  County,  is  a  ^i^gular  pile,  upon 
the  summit  of  the  Ginger  CiUce  Moun- 
tain. It  is  a  natural  stone  structure,  in 
the  form  of  an  inverted  pyramid,  29 
feet  in  height.  It  is  crowned  with  a 
slab  82  feet  long  and  two  feet  thick, 
which  projects  half  its  length  beyond 
the  edge  of  the  pyramid  upon  which  it 
is  BO  strangely  poised.  Though  seem- 
ing just  ready  to  faU,  nothing  could  be 
more  secure.  A  fine  view  down  the 
dark  ravhie  below  is  commanded  at  this 
point. 

ThoFrenohBrottd Riv«r,  in  its  wild 
mountain  course  of  40  miles,  or  more, 
from  Ashville  to  the  Tennessee  line, 
abounds  in  admirable  scenes.  It  is  a 
rapid  stream,  and  in  all  its  course  lies 
deep  down  in  mountain  gorges — now 
foaming  over  its  rocky  pathway,  and 
now  Bleeping,  siQlen  and  dark,  at  the 


base  of  huge  precipitous  cBffs.  A  fine 
highway  follows  its  banks,and  often  tres- 
passes upon  its  waters,  as  it  is  crowded 
by  the  jealous  overhanging  olfiBk.  Near 
the  Tennessee  boundary,  and  close  by 
the  Warm  Springs,  this  road  lies  in  the 
shadow  Of  the  bold  mountain  precipices 
known  as  the  Painted  Rocks  amd  the 
Chimneys.  The  .P^iuted  Rocks  have  a 
perpendicular  elevation  of  between  200 
and  800  feet.  Their  came  con^  from 
the  Indian  pictu-es  yet  to  be  wim  upon 
them.  The  Chimneys  are  lofty  cliffs, 
broken  at  their  summits  into  detached 
piles  of  rocks,  bearing  much  the  likeness 
of  colossal  chimneys,  a  fancy  greatly 
improved  by  the  fire-place-looking  re- 
cesses at  their  base,  and  which  serve  as 
turn-outs  in  the  narrow  causeway.  The 
picture  embracing  the  angle  in  the 
river,  beyond  the  Chimney  Rocks,  is 
especiaUvfine. 

The  Indian  name  of  the  French 
Broad  is  Tselica.  Under  this  title,  Mr. 
Simms  has  woven  into  beautiful  verse  a 
charming  legend  of  the  river.  **  The 
tradition  of  the  Cherokees,^'  he  says, 
'*  asserts  the  existence  of  a  siren  in  the 


SOUTH  OABOLINA. 


247 


Route  to  the  Warm  SprlngB  and  the  Hill  Begion 


French  Broad,  who  implores  the  hunter 
to  the  stream,  and  strangles  him  in  her 
embrace,  or  so  infects  him  with  some 
mortal  disease,  that  he  invariably  per- 
ishes." 

The  Wkrm  Sprliigi,  across  the 
river  from  the  vicinage  of  the  Painted 
Books,  is  a  very  j^easant  and  popular 
summer  resort.  The  excellent  hotel 
here  occuides  a  fine  pUteao,  very  grate- 
ful to  the  dight,  in  its  contrast  with  the 
rugged  character  of  the  wild  landscape 
all  around. 

Rmitair— To  reach  the  mountun  re- 


gion of  North  Carolina,  from  tbo  north, 
follow  the  railways  to  Raleigh,  and  pro- 
ceed thence  by  the  Central  Railway,  182 
miles,  to  Salisbury  (station),  thence  by 
stage  to  Morgantown,  81  miles,  to  Ash- 
ville,  66  miles.  From  Charleston,  S.  C, 
take  the  South  Carolina  railways  to 
Spartanburg,  and  thence  by  stage  to 
Ashville ;  or  railway  lines  through  from 
Charleston,  via  Columbia,  S.  C,  and 
Charlotte,  N.  C,  to  Salisbury,  on  the 
North  Carolina  Central  route,  and 
thence,  as  before,  by  stage  to  Morgan- 
town  and  Ashville. 


■?% tiTIIC«- MCtn  II  •>  < 

Tho  French  Broad  River,  N.  G. 


SOUTH  CAROLIKA. 

SocTH  Carolina  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  States  in  the  Union,  in  its 
legendary  and  historic  story,  in  its  social  characteristics,  and  in  its  physical 
aspect. 

Upon  its  settlement  by  the  English,  in  16*70,  John  Locke,  the  famous  philos- 
opher, framed  a  Constitution  for  the  young  colony,  after  the  pattern  of  that  of 
Plato's  Model  Republic.  Later  (1690|  the  native  poetic  humor  of  the  people 
received  a  new  prompting  from  the  influx  of  French  Huguenots,  driven  from 
their  own  land  by  the  Revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantz.  This  chivalric  spirit 
was  fostered  by  the  wars  which  they  shared  with  the  Georgians,  under  Ogle- 
thorpe, against  the  Spaniards  in  Florida,  and  by  the  gallant  struggles  in  which 
they  were  perpetually  involved  with  the  Taniasses  and  other  of  their  Indian 


248 


SOUTH  OABOLmA. 


!■ 


CKnienl  BenMrk»— Bailwayn 


neigbbora.  Next  came  the  long  and  painftil  trial  of  the  Revolation,  in  which 
these  reaolate  people  were  among  the  first  and  most  ardent  to  take  up  arms  in 
the  cause  of  Right— the  most  perastent  and  self-sacrificing  in  the  prosecttUon  of 
the  contest,  under  evisry  rebii^  and  the  last  to  leave  the  bloody  and  devastating 
fight— «  storr  now  told  undeniably  and  gloriously  everywhere  through  her 
romantic  territory,  upon  the  battle-fields,  from  the  mountains  to  the  sea. 

The  geinerons  temper,  from  which  all  this  brave  history  grew,  has  been  ever 
rince  nourished  and  developed  by  the  social  circumstances  of  the  people;  the 
kindly  and  benign  influences  of  a  pastoral  or  agricultural  life,  cementing,  en- 
dearing, and  perpetuating,  through  a  thousand  links,  family  love,  associations, 
attainments,  and  possessions.  These  characteristics  have  been  yet  further 
brought  out  by  the  climate,  by  the  physical  nature  of  their  home,  and  by  the 
domestic  dependence  of  one  portion  of  the  community,  and  the  ennobling  effect 
of  the  consciousness  of  power  nnd  the  obligations  it  imposes  upon  the  other. 

The  physique  of  the  Palmetto  Staters  exceedingly  varied.    Here,  on  the  sea> 

board  and  tiie  so«^,  broad  savannas  and  deep,  dank  lagunes,  covered  with 

teeming  fields  of  rice,  and  fruitftil  in  a  thousand  changes  of  tropiotl  vegetation ; 

in  the  middle  districts  great  undulating  meadows,  overspread  with  the  luxuriant 

maize,  or  white  with  snowy  oarpetings  of  cotton ;  and,  again,  to  the  northward, 

bold  mountain  ranges,  lovely  valleys,  and  matchless  waterfalls. 

**  The  mnny  land,  the  sonny  hmd,  where  Nstare  has  displayed. 
Her  fUrest  works,  with  Uvish  hand,  in  hiU,  and  vals,  and  ghide ; 
Her  streams  flow  on  in  melody,  through  lair  and  froltflil  plains; 
And,  ttma  the  monntains  to  the  sea,  heanty  with  plenty  reigns  I " 


BaOwtcyn,  The  South  Carolina  Rail- 
way traverses  the  lower  portion  of  the 
State,  187  miles  from  Charleston  to 
Auguista,  Georgia.  There  are  muoj  sta- 
tions but  no  important  towns  on  this 
route,  excepting  Aikin,  a  semi-watering 
{dace,  lir  miles  from  Augusta. 

The  North-eastern  Railway  will  ex- 
tend north  from  Charleston  to  Florence, 
where  it  will  tap  the  great  highway, 
from  Boston  to  New  Orleans,  which 
now  leaves  Charleston  to  the  eastward. 

The  Cheraw  and  Darlington  extends 
40  nules  to  Cheraw  from  Florence  ter- 
minus of  the  North-eastern  road  from 
Charleston,  on  the  Wilmington  and 
Manchester. 

The  Columbia  Branch  extends  66 
miles  from  BranchviUe  midway,  on  the 
South-eastern  road  to  Columbia,  the 
capital  of  the  State.  Stations — ^Branch- 
viUe, on  the  South  Carolma  Railway 
to  Rowe's,  9  miles ;  Orangeburg,  1*7 ; 
Jamieson's,  34  ;  Lewisville,  28 ;  Fort 
Motte,  86;  Kingsville,  41  (Junction  of 
great  Mail  Route  from  New  Tork  via 
Wihnington,    N.  C.) ;    Gadsden,    46; 


Hopkins,  64;  Hampton,  60;  Columbia, 
66  miles. 

The  Wilmington  and  Manchester  ex- 
tends 172  miles  from  Kiiu^svillc,  Colum- 
bia Branch  of  South  Carouna  road.  Sta- 
tions—Kingsville  to  Wateree  Junction, 
9  miles  (Camden  Branch  Road  diverges 
here) ;  Manchester,  16  ;  Sumtervule, 
26 ;  MaysviUe,  84 ;  Lynchburg,  48  ; 
Timmonsville,  62 ;  Florence,  64)  North 
Eastern  Road  for  Charleston  and  the 
Cheraw  and  Darlington,  for  Cheraw, 
diverge  here);  Max's  Bluff,  70;  Pee 
Dee,  76;  Marion,  86;  Mullen's,  92; 
Nichol's,  99;  Fine  Bluff,  108;  Grist's, 
118  ;  Whitesville,  127  ;  Flenungton, 
187  ;  MaxweU's,  144;  Brinkley's,  164  ; 
Wilmington,  171  miles. 

The  Camden  Branch  extends  87  miles 
from  Kingsville — Columbia  Branch  of 
the  South  Carolina  Road.  Stations — 
Kingsville  to  Clarkson's,  4  miles ;  Man- 
chester Junction,  9  ;  Middleton,  11 ; 
Claremont,  18 ;  Hopkins,  28 ;  Camden, 
37  miles. 

The  Charlotte  and  South  Carolina 
Rulway  extends  northward,   through 


:li»i: 


■>  II  :; 


n,  in  which 
up  arms  in 
owcution  of 
derastating 
hrnugh  her 
sea. 

I  been  ever 
people;  the 
tenting,  en- 
tssociations, 
yet  further 
and  by  the 
)bling  effect 
le  other. 
,  on  the  sea- 
overed  with 
regetation ; 
le  luxuriant 
I  northward, 


;  Columbia, 

nchester  ex- 
rille,  Colum- 
kroad.  Sta- 
Be  Junction, 
>ad  diTcrges 
SnmterriUe, 
hburg,  48  ; 
),  64)  North 
;on  and  the 
or  Cheraw, 
BT,  10;  Pee 
alien's,  92; 
08;  Grist's, 
Flemington, 
kley's,  154 ; 

nds  87  miles 

Branch  of 

Stations — 

nUes;  Man- 

ileton,   11 ; 

3;  Camden, 


Ith 


Carolina 
through 


rl 


'Ji'O'f.'^titt^:-.     ,  ..*ri*i*i3t,- 


mmmmmt 


-rmie^0$i^^ 


.^^y^tili^jii^'.    ^^mm^- 


*'Wp>*^ 


!%>^m4'^i^^.:MMm^sii 


I 

.-3 

(; 

I 

■s 

•V 


s 


3 
A 


BOrra  OABOUKA. 


240 


ObwiMton  and  BoatM  Thither. 


I 


ij 


I 


the  mountain  region,  106  miles,  from 
Oolumbia  to  Gliarlotte,  North  Carolina. 
Tlie  principal  places  passed  are  Winns- 
boro  and  Chester.  At  Chester  a  rail- 
war  direrges  for  TorkviUe. 

King's  MounMn  Railway  extends  28 
miles  from  Chester  (Charleston  and 
South  Carolina  Road)  to  TorkTille. 

The  OreenTilie  and  Columbia  Railway 
extends  northwest,  via  Newberry  C.  H., 
148  miles  from  Columbia  to  Greenville, 
with  branches  and  connecting  lines  to 
Bpartanborg,  Laurensville,  Abbeville, 
and  Anderson. 

The  Spartanbnrg  and  Union  Ridlway 
deflects  at  Alson,  from  the  Greenville 
and  Columbia  Railway,  65  miles  north- 
west  of  Columbia.  When  finished  to 
Spartanburg  it  will  be  67  miles  long. 

The  Laurens  Road  extends  82  miles 
from  Newberry,  C.  H.  (Greenville  and 
Columbia  Railway)  to  Laurensville. 

The  Abbeville  Bn^nch  of  the  Green- 
ville and  Columbia  Road  deflects  at 
Cokesbory,  19  miles  to  Abbeville. 

The  Anderson  Branch  (Greenville 
*  and  Columbia)  deflects  at  Belton,  10 
miles  to  Anderson.  From  this  point 
and  from  Spartanbnrg  other  roads  are 
in  progress  to  connect  with  the  rail- 
way routes  of  North  Carolina  and  Ten- 
nessee. 

Charleston  from  iTeto  York. 

From  New  York  daily,  by  railway,  to 
Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  Washington 
City,  Fredericluburg,  and  Richmond, 
Ya.,  Welden  and  Wilmington,  N.  C. ; 
thence  by  Wilmington  and  Manchester 
Railway  to  Kingsville,  on  the  Columbia 
Branch  of  the  South  Carolina  Road; 
thence  by  Columbia  Branch  to  Branch- 
ville,  from  Branchville  to  Charleston — 
Great  Mail  Route  from  New  York  to 
New  Orleans. 

The  North  Eastern  Rdlway,  now  in 
progress,  from  Florence — a  station  on 
the  Wilmington  and  Manchester  Road 
-!-will  be  a  more  direct  route  to  Charles- 
ton than  by  the  Columbia  Branch. 

From  New  York,  every  Wednesday 
and  Saturday,  by  ocean  steamers.  Time, 
by  land  or  sea,  about  50  hours.  Steamer 
passage,  $26. 


.  From  N«w  Orleant  to  ChiatUalon. 
Steamers  dally  to  Mobile  and  to  Mont- 
gomery, Alabama;  thence,  by  railway, 
to  Atlanta ;  thence,  by  Georoia  Road, 
to  Augusta ;  thence,  by  South  Carolina 
Road,  to  Charleston. 

From  Savannah  to  CharltHon.  Steam- 
ers every  Monday.  Thursday,  and  Friday. 

OharlMtoii,  the  metropolis  of  South 
Carolina,  is  picturesquely  situated  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Ashley  and  Cooper 
Rivers,  which  combine  to  form  its  har- 
bor. This  harbor  b  deep  and  spacious, 
drawinff  17  feet  of  water.  The  wup 
d^cM  is  noble,  broad,  impodng,  and 
highly  picturesque.  Though  the  grounds 
are  low,  hardly  more  than  12  feet  above 
high  water,  the  elTect  is  good ;  and  the 
city,  like  Venice,  seems,  at  a  little  dis- 
tance, to  be  absolutely  rising  out  of  the 
sea.  The  bay  is  admost  completely 
landlocked,  mudng  the  harborage  and 
roadstead  as  secure  as  they  are  ample. 
The  acHuncts  contribute  to  form  a  tout 
entmmt  of  much  beauty.  Directly  at 
the  entrance  of  the  city  stands  Castle 
Finckney,  a  fortress  which  covers  an 
ancient  shoal.  On  the  sea-line  rises 
Fort  Moultrie,  famous  as  Fort  Sullivan, 
in  beating  off,  and  nearly  destroying, 
the  British  fleet,  under  Sir  Peter  Parker, 
in  1776.  On  the  eastern  extremitv  of 
the  same  island  (Sullivan's)  on  which 
Fort  Moultrie  stands,  you  may  trace 
the  outline  of  the  fortress,  which,  under 
Colonel  Thompson,  with  700  Carolina 
rifles,  defeated  Sir  Henry  Clinton  at  the 
very  moment  when  Moultrie  drove  Sir 
Peter  Parker  away  from  the  South. 
Within  the  harbor  you  are  arrested  by 
the  imposing  battlements  of  Fortress 
Sumter,  which  covers  the  channel  with 
a  foitddable  array  of  cannon.  This 
fort,  with  that  of  Moul^e,  constitute 
the  chief  defences  of  the  place  upon  the 
sea.  On  James  Island  you  are  shown 
the  ruins  of  old  Fort  Johnson.  On  the 
opposite  headlands  of  the  Haddrill  you 
may  trace  the  old  lines  which  helped  in 
the  defence  of  the  city,  eighty  years  ago, 
but  which  are  now  mostly  covered  by 
the  smart  village  of  Moont  Pleasant. 
These  points,  north,  east,  and  south, 
with  the  city  lying  weB>t  of  them,  bound 


250 


90UTH  OABOLmA. 


Charleston  snd  Tloinlty. 


the  harbor,  leaving  an  ami^e  circuit  of 
bay— coursing  oveir  which,  from  south 
to  north,  the  eye  gladly  pursues  the 
long  stretch  of  Cooper  River,  the  Eti< 
wando  of  the  Red  men,  along  the  banks 
of  which,  for  many  miles,  me  sight  is 
refreshed  by  noble  rice*fields,  and  in 
many  places  by  fine  old  structures  of 
the  ancient  and  present  gentry.  Steam- 
ers ply  up  this  river,  and  return  the 
same  day ;  aflfording  a  good  bird's-eye 
view*  of  the  settlements,  along  a  very 

{icturesque  shore  line,  on  either  hand, 
t  was  up  this  river  that  Mr.  Webster 
distinguished  himself  by  shooting  an 
alligator,  or  rather  shooting  at  him — the 
alligator  diving  at  the  shot,  and  leaving 
the  matter  sufficiently  doubtful  to  enable 
an  old  lawyer  and  politician  to  make  a 
plausible  case  of  it.    , 

Standing  on  James  Island,  or  on  the 
battlements  of  Fort  Sumter,  the  eye 
notes  the  broad  stream  of  the  Ashley, 
winding  from  west  of  the  city,  round  its 
southernmost  point,  to  mingle  in  with 
the  waters  of  the  Cooper.  The  Ashley 
was  anciently  a  region  of  great  wealth 
and  magnificence.  It  is  still  a  river  of 
very  imposing  aspects — Abroad,  capa- 
cious, with  banks  of  green,  through 
which  you  may  still  behold  some  antique 
and  noble  edifices.  Within  the  harbor, 
if  you  can  appropriate  a  couple  of  days, 
jon  may  find  them  agreeably  employed, 
especially  in  the  summer  months,  by  a 
trip  to  Fort  Sumter,  to  James  Island,  to 
Mount  Pleasant,  and  Sullivan's  Island. 
The  two  latter  places  are  favorite  and 
healthy  retreats  for  the  citizens  of 
Charleston  in  mid-summer.  The  "  Mount 
Pleasant  Eotel"  is  ample,  cool,  and 
well  kept,  with  the  usual  adjuncts  of 
bowling  and  billiard-saloons.  The  for^ 
estb  in  the  immediate  neighborhood 
afford  fine  drives  and  ^cturesque 
rambles.  You  pass  in  twentv  minutes 
from  Mount  Pleasant  to  Sullivan's  Isl- 
and. The  Moultrie  House,  at  this  place, 
is  one  of  the  finest  watering-places  in 
the  southern  country.  The  sea-bathing 
is  .cure ;  the  beach— one  of  the  most 
;;apacious — affords  hard  drives,  along 
the  line  of  breakers,  for  nearly  three 
miles,  to  the  eastern  end  of  the  island. 


where  the  sea,  angrily  Struggli&e  with 
shoals,  to  press  into  the  estutkriss  be- 
hind Sullivan  and  Long  Islands,  keeps 
qp  a  perpetual,  and  not  unpleasant 
roar — exhibiting  its  passions  in  a  way 
to  inspire  no  terror. 

Charleston  was  orifi^ually  founded 
about  1670.  It  was  suL  lequently  laid 
out  on  a  plan  fomished  Irom  England, 
which  Was  then  conridered  of  very 
magnificent  scale ;  but  the  streets  were 
narrow,  though  regularly  laid  out,  and 
no  provision  was  made  for  public 
squares.  In  this  respect,  the  city  is 
still  very  deficient.  But  the  general 
style  of  building,  which  gives  to  each 
private  dwelling  a  large  court  Of  its 
own,  with  trees  and  verandahs,  lep-dera 
the  want  of  piiblic  squares  less  sensibly 
felt.  Originally  built  of  wood,  and 
ravaged  by  frequent  fires,  Charleston 
has  become,  in  a  large  degree,  a  city  of 
brick.  Its  public  buildings  are  some  of 
them  antique  as  well  as  noble  edifices. 
St.  Michael's  Church,  the  State  House 
(now  employed  for  the  Courts  of  Jus- 
tice),  and  the  Old  Custom  House,  are 
all  solid  and  imposing  structures,  raised 
during  the  Colonial  period.  St.  Michael's 
Tower  is  held  in  great  admiration  among 
the  Charlestonians.  The  Custom  House 
has  a  traditional  character,  as  distin- 
guished by  the  British  in  the  Revolution 
as  the  prison-ho'use  of  the  patriots.  It 
was  in  this  building  that  Hayne,  the 
martyr,  was  kept  in  bonds ;  and  hence 
he  was  led  out  to  execution.  The  New 
Custom  House,  of  marble,  Is  making 
rapid  progress,  and  promises  to  be  one 
of  the  finest  specimens  of  American 
architecture.  The  several  churches  of 
St.Philip's  (Episcopal),  St.  finibar  (Cath- 
olic), Citadel  Square  (Baptist^,  Central 
(Presbyterian),  are  all  fine  edifices;  the 
towers  of  St.  Finibar's,  of  St.  Philip's, 
and  the  Baptist's,  being  more  than  200 
feet  in  height. 

Among  the  objects  of  public  curiosity 
is  the  Orphan  Asylum — a  magnificent 
structure,  capable  of  accommodating 
some  800  proteges  of  the  city.  Its 
number  of  ^rls  and  boys  (orphans)  may 
range  from  160  to  200  young  men — 
one  half  of  them  being  benejiaaty  stu- 


SOUTH  GABOUNA. 


251 


Ohwleaton  and  Yidnlty, 


dents,  or  elevetot  the  State.  The  plan 
of  education  is  borrowed,  in  part,  from 
the  system  at  West  Point,  and  in  part 
from  UiePoljfteehnigue  School  of  France. 
Its  graduates  are  among  the  most  dis- 
tinguished and  successfm  perhaps  of  all 
our  colleges,  and  are  more  thoroughly 
grounded  in  the  lueful  pursuits  than 
any  other.  To  exanune  these  two  in- 
stitutions will  afford  the  stranger  very 
grateful  employment  for  a  day. 

The  envicons  of  the  city  afford  a 
variety  of  very  pleasant  tbrive$.  The 
Battery,  which  is  the  Charleston  Prado^ 
PlazOf  Alameda,  Carroutel,  is  of  great 
resort  on  pleasant  afternoons ;  thronged 
with  curiages  and  pedestrians.  Its  gar- 
dens are,  on  such  occasions,  crowded 
with  happy  cldldren.  But  take  a  coach 
and  drive  to  the  Magnolia  Cetnetery^ — a 
beautiful  '*  city  of  the  sUent  ^ — the 
Greenwood  and  Mount  Auburn  of 
Charleston.  Ton  will  find  this  a  lovely 
retreat ;  well  laid  out ;  min- 

gled  woods  and  waters — 
loking  out  on  the  Cooper, 
whose  streams  find  their 
wajr  into  its  pretty  lakelets, 
over  whidi  the  live  oak 
hangs  its  Druid  masses. 
From  this  scene  drive  across 
to  Ashley  River ;  cross  this 
broad  stream,  here  a  mile  in 
width,  and  find  yourself  at 
once  in  the  eonmtty,  among 
cotton  plantations  and  love- 
ly farmsteads.  If  you  have 
time,  continue  your  drive  a 
few  ndles  fiarther,  to  the 
"  Old  Parish  Church  of  St. 
Andrew,**  one  of  the  most 
antique  churches  built  by 
the  early  settlers  under  the 
Anghcan  regime. 

The  great  avenue  from 
Charleston  into  the  country, 
was  pronounced  by  Arch- 
dale,  one  of  the  Lords  Pro- 
prietors, such  an  avenue  as 
no  prince  of  Europe  could 
boast.  This  was  due  to  the 
noble  oaks  and  magnolias, 
the  niyrties  and  the  iessa- 
mineS)  which    lined    it  on 


either  hand,  making  it  a  cdvered  way, 
embowered  in  shade,  grateful  in  green, 
venerable  with  moss,  and  giving  out  a 
perpetual  fragrance  from  a  wurid  of 
summer  flowers. 

Returning  to  the  city  you  w*l*  find 
yourself  interested  in  numerovs  public 
buildings  and  institutions,  all  of  which 
are  of  interest  to  the  traveller,  who 
is  either  studious  or  simply  curious. 
Charleston  is  especially  rich  in  her  pub- 
lic charities : — ^the  South  Carolina,  Fel- 
Ibwslup,  Hibernian,  Hebrew,  German, 
and  a  variety  besides,  all  of  whom  have 
large  endowments  and  fine  buddings. 
She  has  a  Literary  and  a  Medichl  Col- 
lege in  prosperous  exercise.  The  Col- 
lege Library  contains  some  10,000  vol- 
umes; the  Charleston  Library,  some 
80,000;  the  Apprentices*,  12,000;  the 
College  Museum  is  second  to  none  in 
the  United  States. 

The  Hotda  are  numerous,  and  among 


Entrance  to  the  Magnolia  Gemeteiy,  Charleston,  8.  0. 


262 


BOXITH  CABOUNA. 


OhartoBton— The  Sesboud  and  Lowlands. 


the  most  stately  edifices  in  the  city. 
They  are  usually  kept  in  a  style  which 
will  ranlE  with  any  in  the  country. 
Among  the  most  consinouous  of  these 
are  the  ** Charleston  Hotel,'* the  "Mills 
House,**  the  "  Oalder  House,**  the  "  Pa- 
Tilion,**  and  the  "Planters*  Hotel."  The 
charges  at  these  houses  range  from 
$1  60  to  $2  60  per  tUetn.  The  "  Charles- 
ton Hotel,**  the  "Mills  House,**  and 
"  Pavilion  Hotel,**  are  particularly  good 
specimens  of  Charleston  architecture.  . 

The  commerce  of  Charleston,  once 
equal  to  that  of  any  city  on  the  Atlantic, 
has  undergone  many  fluctuations.  It 
is  now  reviving,  and  gradually  increas- 
ing in  extent  and  profit.  She  is  slowly 
buHdfaig  u^  a  marine  of  her  own.  Her 
chief  exports  are  rice,  cotton,  tobacco, 
lumber,  tar,  pitch,  and  turpentine.  Her 
farms  now  contribute  their  spring  sup- 
plies to  New  York  and  other  Northern 
cities.  The  quantity  of  rice  raised 
within  the  State,  and  exported  through 
Charleston,  exceeds  that  of  any  other 
State  and  city;  and  the  enterprise  of 
her  merchants  and  dtizens  in  the  con- 
struction of  railways  to  the  Appalachian 
Mountains,  is  adding  largely  to  her  im- 
portance as  a  depot,  and  place  of  trade 
and  tranrit  for  the  great  interior  of  the 
West.  She  has  steam  lines  to  New 
York,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  Havan- 
na,  and  Florida.  Her  popidation  is 
now  estimated  at  60,000  inhabitants, 
of  whom  20,000  are  daves. 

We  have  indicated  Fort  Moultrie  as 
a  spot  distinguished  by  one  of  the 
greatest  battles  of  the  Revolution ;  but 
the  chronicles  of  Charleston  show,  be- 
sides, a  long  series  of  gallant  struggles 
withpowerfiil  enemies.  She  has  been 
threatened  by  the  Red  men,  who,  in 
formidable  alfiance,  brought  down  their 
numerous  tribes  to  her  very  gates. 
She  has  been  assidled  by  fleets  of  the 
Spaniards  and  the  French.  Her  colo- 
nial existence  was  one  long  struggle  with 
the  Spaniard  and  the  savages.  In  the 
revolutionary  contest  she  took  a  first 
and  most  distinguished  part  against  the 
Crown;  was  thrice  assuled  by  the 
British,  and  only  succumbed  findly  to 
their  arms,  after  a   leaguer  of  two 


months,  and  when  half  the  city  was  in 
ruins,  and  the  people  were  sq^ering 
from  famine.  She  has  contributed  some 
of  the  most  able  and  patriotic  men'to 
the  Republic  in  arts,  arms,  statesman- 
ship, science,  and  literature,  ^e  is 
the  birth^ce  of  Christopher  Gadsden, 
William  Moultrie,  Charles  Cotesworth 
and  Thomas  Pinckhey ;  Henry  Middle- 
toUf  Arthur  Middleton,  Thomas  Lynch, 
John  and  Edward  Rutledge,  William 
Lowndes,  Joel  R.  Poinsett,  Stephen 
Elliott.  Hugh  Legar6,  Holbrook,  Haynes, 
(R.  Y.)  and  scores  besides,  who  have 
left  honorable  memorials,  national  as 
well  as  sectional,  of  which  she  may  be 
justly  proud,  and  to  which  the  Confeder^ 
acy  itself  is  happy  to  do  honor.  The 
descendants  of  these  great  men  still 
survive,  and  serve  to  ^ve  character  to 
society,  and  to  add  to  the  attractions 
of  the  city.  Let  the  traveller,  if  he 
can,  give  a  week  to  Charleston,  and  he 
will  find  its  scenery,  its  society,  its 
characteristics,  quite  suflScient  to  exer- 
cise his  curiosity  and  thoughts  dtiring 
that  period ;  but  if  he  can  appropriate 
two  days  only,  we  have  shown  him  how 
these  may  be  profitably  spent. 

The  Seaboard  'and  Lowlaiid 
towns,  villages,  and  plantations,  may 
be  reached  by  the  steamboats  which 
ply  between  Charleston  and  Savannah, 
or  by  stage  or  carriage  from  the  line  m 
the  railway.  The  traveller  wUl  not  see 
them  in  their  own  peculiar  beauty,  be- 
cause the  climate  in  bummer  time,  when 
the  wonderful  tropical  vegetation  cov- 
ers the  rank  earth,  is  not  to  be  braved 
by  the  unanclimated.  The  planters 
themselves,  indeed,  remove,  with  their 
families,  at  this  season,  either  to  the 
uplands  or  to  the  little  sandy  pine- 
covered  elevations  with  which  the  coun- 
try is  dotted.  The  negroes,  alone,  can 
bear  the  summer  airs  of  the  lowlands 
without  ill  results.  In  the  winter, 
though,  life  may  easily  be  made  enjoy- 
able in  the  villages  here,  under  the 
balmiest  and  most  healthful  of  temper- 
atures, and  in  the  midst  of  genial  and 
refined  society. 

Beaufort,  in  the  extreme  southern 
part  of  the  State,  16  miles  inland,  on  a 


SOUTH  OABOUKA. 


253 


**  Woodlands,"  the  Home  of  W.  Oilmore  Simms. 


small  arm  of  the  sea,  is  a  pleasant  littk 
TiUage,  where  one  might  winter  quietly 
and  healthfully.  The  steamers  (inland 
route)  from  Charleston  to  Savannah 
call  here. 

Ths  Xiowlanda  of  OaxoUiuu— The 
journey  on  the  South  Oarolina  railway 
will  gire  tiie  traveller  some  inkling  of 
the  lowland  features  of  the  southern 
landscape,  though  not  in  its  strongest 
or  most  interesting  character.  Since 
much  of  the  way  is  through  extensive 
pine  forests,  which  makes  the  rhyming 
sneer  bestowed  upon  this  part  of  the 
country  not  altogether  inapt : 

"Where  to  tho  North,  pine  trees  in  prospect 

riso  * 
Where  to  Ihe  East,  pine  trees  assail  the  skies ; 
Where  to  the  Wes^  pine  trees  obstrnot  the 

view; 
Where  to  the  Soat> ,  pine  trees  forever  grew  T 

Bat  a  second  glimpse  will  reveal, 
amidst  all  these  '*  pine  trees,"  the  tower- 
ing cypress,  with  its  foliage  of  fringe 
and  its  garlands  of  moss — the  waxen 
bay-leaf,  the  rank  laurel,  and  the  clus- 
tering ivy ;  and,  if  you  are  watchful, 
you  may  catch,  in  the  rapid  transit  of 
the  cars  through  the  swamps,  glimpses 
of  almost  interminable  cathedral  aisles 
of  cypress  and  vine,  sweeping  through 
the  deeper  puts  of  the  boundless  la- 
goons. But  a  railroad  glimpse,  and  es- 
pecially at  the  speed  with  which  you 
travel  here,  is  quite  insufficient  for 
reasonable  observation.  At  Woodlands, 
a  mile  only  south  of  Midway,  the  centre 
of  the  road,  lives  the  distinguished  poet 
and  novelist,  Simms ;  and,  as  he  is  al- 
ways upon  hospitable  thoughts  intent, 
we  will  pay  him  a  flying  visit,  not 
doubting  of  our  welcome.  Yonder,  in 
that  wide  and  spreading  lawn,  stands 
our  author's  mandon — an  old-fashioned 
brick  structure,  with  massive  and 
strange  portico.  The  ranks  of  orange- 
trees  and  live  oak  which  sentinel  his 
castle,  are  the  objects  of  his  tenderest 
care — ^true  and  ardent  lover  of  nature 
as  he  is.  Mr.  Simms  has  a  particular 
fondness  for  the  especial  grape-vine, 
depending  in  such  fantastic  and  number- 
less festoons  from  the  limbs  of  yon  ven- 
erable tree.    He  has  immortalized  it  in 


h's  song ;  and,  ad  it  is  a  goo|d  specimen 
01  its  class— ^  class  numerous  in  the 
South — ire  will  pay  it  an  humble  trib- 
ute in  our  prose.  It  is  strong-limbed 
as  a  ^nt — and,  but  for  the  grace  with 
which  it  clings  to  the  old  forest-king, 
would  seem  to  be  rather  struggling  with 
him  for  his  sceptre,  thtan  loyally  and 
lovingly  suing  for  his  protection.  The 
vine  drops  its  festoons,  one  beneath  the 
other,  in  such  a  manner  that  half  a 
dozen  persons  may  find  a  cozy  seat, 
each  over  his  fellow,  for  a  merry  swing. 
On  a  dreamy  summer  eve,  you  may 
vacillate,  in  these  rustic  couches,  to 
your  hearths  content ;  one  arm  thrown 
round  the  vine  will  secure  y6u  in  your 
seat,  while  the  hand  mjtjPhold  the 
favorite  book,  and  the  other  pluck  the 
delicious  clusters  of  grapes,  which,  as 
you  swing,  encircle  your  head  like  the 
wreath  upon  the  brow  of  Bacchus.  If 
the  rays  of  the  setting  sun  be  hot,  then 
the  rich  and  impenetrable  canopy  of 
foliage  above  you  will  not  prove  un- 
grateftd. 

A  stroll  over  Mr.  Simms*  plantation 
will  give  you  a  pleasant  inkling  of  almost 
every  feature  of  the  Southern  lowlands, 
in  natural  scenery,  social  life,  and  the 
character  and  posidon  of  the  slave  pop- 
ulation. You  may  sleep  sweetly  and 
soundly  withi%  his  hospitable  waUs,  se- 
cure of  a  happy  day  on  the  morrow, 
whether  the  rain  holds  you  prisoner 
within  doors,  or  the  glad  sunshine  drags 
you  abroad.  He  will  give  you  a  true 
Southern  breakfast,  at  a  very  comfort- 
able hourj  and  then  furnish  you  abun- 
dant sources  of  amusement  in  his  well- 
stocked  library,  or  suffer  you  to  seek  it 
elsewhere,  as  your  fancy  listeth.  At 
dinner,  yon  shtdl  not  lack  good  cheer, 
for  either  the  physical  or  the  intellec- 
tual man,  and  then  you  may  take  a 
pleasant  stroll  to  the  quiet  banks  of  the 
Edisto — ^watch  the  raft-men  floating 
lazily  down  the  stream,  and  interpret 
as  you  will  the  windings  and  echoes  of 
their  boat-horns— -or  you  may  muse  in 
the  shaded  bowers  of  Turtle  Gove,  or 
either  of  the  many  other  inlets  and 
bayous  of  the  stream.  Go  where  3'ou 
may,  you  must  not  tail  to  peep  into  the 


264 


SOUTH  OABOLINA. 


The  Lowl«ftdt— The  BwatDpe. 


Bwamp  Scene,  8.  OL 


dark  and  solemn  swamps.  Ton  may 
traverse  their  waters  on  wild  bridges  of 
decayed  and  fallen  trees ;  you  may 
dream  of  knight  and  troubadour,  as 
your  eye  wanders  through  the  gothio 
passages  of.  cypress,  interlacing  their 
branches,  and  bearing  the  ever-depend- 
ent moss,  which  hangs  mournfully,  as 
if  weeping  over  the  desolation  and 
death  wMon  brood  withi|i  the  fatal  pre- 
cincts. If  you  fear  not  to  startle  the 
wild-fowl,  to  disturb  the  serpent,  or  to 
encounter  the  alligator,  you  may  enter 
your  skiff,  and,  sailing  through  the 
openings  in  the  base  of  ttie  cyi>re88,  you 
may  penetrate  at  pleasure,  amidst  bush 
and  brake,  into  the  mystic  chambers 
of  these  poisonous  halls.  Mr.  Kmms 
has  beautifully  described  these  solemn 
scenes  in  his  "Southern  Passages  and 
Inures:** 

***I1fl  a  wild  spot,  end  hath  »  gloomy  look ; 
Hie  MM  sings  never  merrily  In  the  trees, 
And  the  youig  leaves  seem  blighted.   A,  ruk 

growtJi 
Spreads  polsononsly  round,  with  power  to 

taint, 
With  blistering  dews,  the  thonghtless  hand 

that  dares 
To  penetrate  the  covert    Cypresses 
Orowd  on  the  dark,  wet  earth;  and  stretdied 

at  length. 
The  eaymaa— •  fit  dweller  In  saoh  home — 


Slumbers,  half  burled  in  the  i  . 
Beside  the  (rreen  ooze  where  he'shelters  him. 
A  whooping  crane  erect)*  his  skeleton  Ibrm, 
And  shrieks  in  flifpits.    Two  snmmei^aou 

aroused 
To  apprehension,  as  they  hear  his  cry. 
Dash  up  fjrom  tba  lagoon,  with  nutrvellons 

haste. 
Following  his  guidance.    Meetly  taught  by 

these. 
And  startled  bv  our  rapid,  near  approaeh, 
The  ateel-Jawed  monster,  ttom  his  grassy  bed. 
Crawls  slowly  to  his  slimy,  green  abode. 
Which  straight  receives  hun.  Tou  behold  him 

now. 
His  ridgy  back  uprising  as  he  speeds. 
In  silence,  to  the  centre  of  the  stream. 
Whence  his  head  peers  alone.'* 

Rambling,  once  upon  a  time,  through 
the  negro  quarters  of  Mr.  Simms'  plan- 
tation, we  amused  ourself  in  studying 
the  varied  characters  of  the  slaves,  as 
shown  in  the  style  of  their  cabhis,  the 
order  in  which  they  kept  them,  the 
taste  displayed  in  their  gardens,  etc. ; 
for  every  man  has  all  the  material  and 
time  at  his  command  to  make  himself 
and  his  fiunily  as  comfortable  as  he 
pleases.  The  huts  of  some  bore  as 
happy  an  ur  as  one  might  desire ;  neat 
palings  enclosed  them;  the  gardens 
were  full  of  flowers,  and  blooming  vines 
clambered  over  the  doors  and  windows. 
Others,  agun,  had  been  suffered  by  the 


n 


sours  OA.BOIJNA. 


2ffff 


The  Lowlands. 


the 


as 


idle  occupants  to  £aI1  into  sad  decay  ;- 
no  e^dence  of  taste  or  indaatry  was  to 
be  seen  in  their  hiageless  doors,  their 
fallen  fences,  <w  their  weed-grown  gar- 
dens.  These  lacy  fellows  were  accus- 
tomed even  to  out  down  ihe  shade- 
trees  wluidi  liad  been  kindly  planted  be- 
fore j^tdr  homes,  rather  tliaa  walk  a 
few  ywiai  Ikvther  fbr  other  and  even 
better  toA.  Tho  more  industrious  of 
the  negroes  here,  as  dsewhere,  employ 
their  l^MiNi  hours,  whjclr  are  abundant, 
in  the  iBuHnre  of  ve^tables  and  in  rais- 
ing fowls,  which  they  sell  to  their  mas- 
ters, and  thus  supi^y  themselves  with 
the  means  to  purchase  many  little  luxu- 
ries of  life.  For  necessaries  they  have 
no  concern,  smce  they  are  amply  and 
generously  provided  with  all  which  they 
can  require.  Others  who  will  not  thus 
work  for  their  pin-money,  are  depend- 
ent upon  the  kindneseof  their  masters, 
or  more  frequently  upon  their  ingenui- 
ty at  thieving.  Many  of  them  sell  to 
their  master  in  the  morning  the  pro- 
duce they  have  stolen  from  him  the 
previous  night.  At  least,  they  all  man- 
age to  keep  their  purses  filled ;  and  we 
were  assured  that  not  one,  had  he  occa- 
sion or  desure  to  visit  Charleston  or 
Augusta,  but  could  readily  produce  the 
means  to  d^ay  his  expenses.  One  old 
woman  was  pointed  out  to  us,  who  had 
several  times  left  the  plantation  with 
permission  to  remain  away  as  long  as 
she  pleased ;  yet,  although  her  absences 
were  sometimes  of  long  continuance, 
she  was  too  wise  not  to  return  to  a  cer- 
tain aiid  good  home.  Wander  how 
and  whither  she  would,  in  due  time 
her  heart  would  join  the  burden  of  the 
song : 

"  Oh  t  cury  me  back  to  old  Ylrginny, 
To  old  Ylrginny'B  shore  I  " 

While  once  visiting  some  friends  in 
Carolina,  we  had  the  pleasure  of  wit- 
nessing the  bridal  festivities  of  one  of 
the  servants  of  the  family,  a  girl  of 
some  eighteen  years.  The  occasion 
was  one  of  those  pleasant  things  which 
long  hold  place  in  the  memory.  For 
days  previous,  the  young  ladies  of  the 
household  gayly  busied  themaelveB  in 


kind  preparations  for  the  erept ;  in  io!- 
struotioas  to  the  bride,  in  thb  prepara- 
tion of  hdr  white  mtulin  robe,  of  her 
head-dress,  and  other  portions  of  her 
toilet,  in  writfaag  h«r  notes  of  invito* 
tion  to  her  sable  friends— Mr.  Sambo 
Sndth  or  Miss  Clara  Brown,  according 
to  the  baptimnals  of  their  respective 
masteia,  whose  name*  the  ,negroes  of 
the  South  dways  Msimie.  In  our  quaUty 
of  artist,  we  had  the  pleasure  to  ex- 
pend our  water-ooloxs  in  wreaths  of 
roses,  and  pictures  of  cupids,  hearts, 
and  darts^  and  ao  on,  upon  the  icings 
of  the  cakes  which  tiie  young  ladies 
had  prepared  for  the  bridal  feast ;  and 
who  knowa  but  that  our  chef  tPmwre* 
were  consumed  by  ebony  lips  on  that 
memorable  night  i  The  ceremony  took 
place  in  the  cabin  of  the  bride,  and  in 
presence  of  the  whites ;  and  then  fol- 
lowed revelry,  feasting,  and  dancing 
upon  the  lawn,  much  to  the  delight  of 
the  happy  pair  and  their  dark  friends, 
and  scarcely  less  to  the  pleasure  of  t«he 
bride's  kind  mistresses  and  of  all  of  us 
who  witnessed  their  sports  from  the 
parlor  windows.  By  the  way,  when 
you  journey  in  the  South,  line  your 
pockets  with  tobacco,  dispense  it  gene* 
rously  to  the  darkies,  and  they  are  your 
friends  for  life. 

As  we  have  said,  Woodlands  and  its 
vicinage  will  enlighten  you  as  to  the 
genus  of  the  scenery  of  all  the  lowlands 
of  the  South.  This  genusy  however, 
you  will  find  as  you  ramble  from  the 
seaboard  towards  the  interior,  fiub- 
divided  into  many  species,  each  widely 
varying  from  the  other.  Upon  the  sea- 
board, and  its  many  lovely  and  luxuri- 
ant islands,  you  will  find  the  beau  ideal 
of  Southern  soil,  climate,  vegetation, 
architecture,  and  character.  Here 
abound  those  lovely  inlets  and  bays, 
which  make  up  the  absence  of  the  lake- 
scenery  of  the  North.  These  bayous 
and  lakelets  are  covered  with  the  rank- 
est tropical  vegetation ;  they  abound  in 
every  species  of  wild-fowl — ^burds  of  the 
most  gorgeous  plumage,  songsters  of 
the  sweetest  aotes-— the  mocking-bird 
and  the  nightingale,  the  robin,  and  a 
host  of  other  equally  celebrated  war- 


.■.-.5 


266 


SOUTH  OABOLINA. 


The  Lowlands. 


bbn.  Here,  the  foliage  is  8o  dense  and 
rich,  in  form  and  colqr,  that  a  poor  ima- 
gination  will  readily  people  the  spot 
with  elves  and  sprites :  and  there, 
aguD,  so  dark  and  solemn  are  the 
caverns,  overshadowed  by  the  impene- 
trable roofs  of  leaves,  that  you  may 
readily  interpret  *he  screech  of  the  owl, 
the  groan  of  tLe  ouU-frog,  and  the  hiss 
of  the  serpent  into  the  unearthly  wail 
of  damned  spirits.  These  are  fitting 
haunts  for  the  sad  and  contemplative 
mind  at  the  witching  hour  of  night. 

Here,  the  rice  plantations  abound. 
Many  of  them  are  of  great  extent, 
some  of  the  planters  employing  several 
hundred  slaves.  The  white  population 
is  thus  necessarily  thin,  yet  opulent. 
The  cabins  of  the  negroes  on  these  ex- 
tensive domains,  surrounding  the  man* 
sion,  and  its  many  out-bkiildings  of  the 
proprietor,  give  to  every  settlement  the 
aspect  of  a  large  and  thriving  village. 
There  is  something  peculiarly  fascina- 
ting in  this  species  of  softened  feudal 
life.  The  slaves  are,  for  the  most  part, 
warmly  attached  to  their  masters,  and 
they  watch  over  their  interests  as  they 
would  their  own.  Indeed,  they  con- 
rider  themselves  part  and  parcel  of 
their  master's  family.  They  bear  his 
name,  they  share  his  bounty;  and 
their  fortune  depends  wholly  upon  his. 
Through  life  they  have  every  comfort ; 
the  family  phyrioian  attends  them  when 
sick,  and  in  their  old  age  and  imbecility, 
they  are  well  protected.  They  glory  in 
their  master's  success  and  happiness; 
their  pride  is  in  exact  proportion  to  the 
rank  of  the  family  they  serve;  and, 
whatever  that  may  be,  they  still  cherish 
a  haughty  and  self-satisfied  contempt 
for  "  poor  white  folks." 

'*  Oo  'way.  Sambo,"  we  once  heard 
one  of  these  jovial  lads  exclaim  to  an- 
other, whose  ill-fortune  it  was  to  serve 
a  less  opulent  planter  than  himself; 
*<  go  'way.  Sambo,  your  massa  only  got 
fifty  niggers ;  my  mrssa  got  hundred." 
And  he  pulled  up  his  shirt-collar,  and 
marched  pompously  oflf  with  the  step 
and  air  of  a  millionnaire. 

The  masters,  themselves,  descended 
from  an  old  chevaUer  stock ;  and,  ac- 


customed through  many  generations  to 
the  seclusion  of  country  life,  and  that 
life  under  Southern  skies,  and  surround- 
ed with  all  the  appliances  of  wealth  and 
homage,  have  acquired  an  ease,  a  grace, 
a  generosity,  and  largeness  of  character, 
incompatible  with  the  daily  routine  of 
the  petty  occupations,  stratagems,  and 
Struggles  of  modem  commercial  and 
metropolitan  life,  be  it  in  the  South  or 
the  North. 

Where  the  iwamps  and  bayous  do 
not  extend,  the  country,  still  flat,  is 
mostly  of  a  rich  sandy  soil,  w^ioh  deep- 
ly tinges  the  waters  of  all  the  rivers 
from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Mississippi. 
This  is  the  grand  characteristic  of  the 
southern  portions  of  all  the  Oulf  States. 
The  rivers,  as  they  extend  towards  the 
interior,  are  lined  with  high  sandy 
bluffs,  which,  still  further  northward, 
give  place,  in  their  turn,  to  mountain 
ledges  and  granite  walls.  These  streams, 
from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Alabama, 
the  Chattahoochee  and  the  Savannah, 
to  the  smaller  rivers  of  CaroUna  and 
Florida,  are  filled  with  sandy  islands, 
ever  changing  their  position  and  form. 
Frequently  high  freshets  occur  in  them, 
completely  altering  their  channels,  and 
bearing  away  the  produce  of  li'hote 
plantations,  from  the  cotton  bale  to  the 
family  domicile,  and  the  century-aged 
tree  which  shaded  it.  In  crossing  the 
smaller  water-courses  of  the  South,  we 
have  often  observed  marks  of  the  ex- 
tent of  a  freshet  upon  high  trees,  at  an 
elevation  of  60  or  60  feet  above  our 
head.  They  are  sometimes  an'  exces- 
sive bore  to  the  hurried  traveUer,  hold- 
ing him  water-bound  for  days  together, 
and  invariably  in  places  where,  of  all 
others,  he  does  not  love  to  tarry. 

We  happened  to  be  in  Augusta  year^ 
ago,  during  a  great  rise  in  the  waters 
of  the  Savannah.  In  the  course  of 
some  few  hours,  the  river  had  esttended 
its  limits  throughout  the  city,  and  over 
the  plain  for  nSles  in  every  direction. 
It  was  a  novel  and  beautiful  sight  to 
gaze  from  your  balcony,  upon  this  un- 
looked-for Yedce.  Boats  were  sailing 
in  every  direction  through  the  streets 
—even  the  {ionderous   crafts  of  the 


M 


SOUTH  OABOLIVA. 


257 


The  Interior  Town*. 


at  an 


Savannah,  capable  of  holding  fifty  or 
sixty  men.  We  observed  the  pretty 
vessel  of  the  *'  Augusta  Boat  Club/' 
dashing  up  Broad  street  and  under  the 
hotel  windows,  with  the  crew  in  full 
dress,  music  sounding,  and  gay  banners 
waving  upon  the  air  I  A  ferry  was 
establtohed  to  pick  up  passengers  at 
their  doors  or  windows,  and  convey 
them  to  the  base  of  the  Sand-hills,  a 
summer  retreat,  some  three  miles  to 
the  ntMrthward.  The  cross  streets,  lead- 
ing from  the  river,  were  washed  away 
to  the  depth  of  many  feet,  and  for 
days  afterwards  passengers  were  trans- 
ported across  tiien^  in  flats  and  ba- 
teaux. 

From  these  freshets,  with  the  innu- 
merable stagnant  pools  which  they 
leave,  together  with  the  miasma  arising 
from  immense  quantities  of  decaying 
vegetable  matter,  spring  many  of  the 
locfd  fevers  and  diseases  of  the  South. 
In  Augusta,  the  yellow  fever  followed 
the  great  freshet,  and  carried  off,  dur- 
ing the  brief  space  of  a  few.  weeks, 
nearly  three  hundred  of  the  mhabitants. 
This  terrible  scourge  had  not  previously 
visited  the  city  for  eighteen  years,  and 
has  not  ^ce  returned. 

Qeoxgetown,  one  of  the  oldest  set- 
tlements in  South  Carolina,  is  about  16 
miles  from  the  sea,  on  Winyaw  Bay, 
near  the  junction  of  the  Fedee,  Black, 
and  Waccamaw  Mvers.  Some  revolu- 
tionary memories  are  awakened  here. 
In  1780  the  vichutge  was  the  scene  of 
a  skirmish  between  American  and 
British  troops,  and  in  1781  it  was  taken 
from  the  enemy  by  General  Marion,  and 
the  military  works  destroyed. 

Odnmua,  the  capital  of  South  Car- 
olina, is  128  miles  from  Charleston,  by 
the  South  Carolina  Railway,  and  the 
Columbia  Branch.  It  is  connected  by 
rulway  with  the  great  route  from  New 
York  to  New  Orleans,  with  Augusta, 
Georgia,  and  with  Camden,  Cheraw, 
and  most  of  the  interior  and  mountain 
villages  of  the  State.  It  is  a  beautiful 
city,  situated  on  the  blufb  of  the  Con- 
guree,  a  few  miles  below  the  charming 
falls  of  that  river.  It  is  famous  for  its 
delightfully  shaded  streets,  its  wonder- 


fVd  flower  gardens,  and  the  xtip^el  plan- 
tations in  its  vicitdty.  Nothing  can  be 
more  inviting  than  the  walks  and  drives 
in  the  neighborhood.  The  South  Caroli- 
na College,  located  i^ere,  is  a  prosperous 
institution,  with  from  160  to  200  stu- 
dents. The  new  capitol  bulling  of 
granite,  now  in  progress,  will  be  a  noble 
edifice,  costing  about  three  millions  of 
dollars. 

The  college  and  State  libraries  are 
.large  and  choice.  The  lunatic  asylum 
is  an  object  of  great  interest.  Here, 
also,  is  the  theoTo^oal  college  of  the 
Presbyterian  Church,  and  a  Roman 
Catholic  establishment.  The  popula- 
tion of  Columbia  is  about  8,000. 

Oamdm  is  83  miles  ngrth-east  of  Co- 
lumbia, with  which  it  is  connected  by 
railway,  though  with  such  considerable 
detours,  as  to-mcrease  the  distance  to  62 
miles.  A  direct  line  is  in  progress. 
Distance  from  Charleston  by  rauway, 
140  miles.  It  is  on  the  Wateree 
River,  navigable  to  this  point  by  steam- 
boats. Camden  is  a  place  of  greathis- 
toric  interest.  A  battie  was  fought 
here  in  August,  1*780,  between  the 
Americans,  under  General  Gates,  and 
the  British,  under  Lord  Comwallis ;  and 
another  in  April,  1781,  between  General 
Greene  and  Lord  Rawdon.  The  scene 
of  the  latter  struggle  is  the  south-eastern 
slope  of  Hobku-k's  Hill,  now  called 
Eirkwood,  a  beautiful  summer  suburb 
of  the- old  town.  Upon  the  Green,  in 
front  of  the  Fresbyterian  Church,  on 
De  Ealb  street,  there  is  a  monument 
over  the  grave  of  Baron  De  Kalb,  who 
fell  in  the  battle  of  August,  1780,  at 
Camden.  The  comer  stone  was  laid  in 
1826,  by  Laltayette.  The  head-quarters 
of  Cornwallis,  to  be  seen  here,  is  a  fine 
old  building  in  ruins.  On  the  Market 
House,  there  is  a  well-executed  metallic 
efiigy,  10  feet  high,  of  King  Haiglar, 
a  most  famous  chiefuun  of  the  Cataw- 
bas.  Mr.  Simms  has  made  this  curious 
relic  the  theme  of  one  of  his  fine  le- 
gends. 

FortMotte,  an  importtmt  Revolution- 
ary relic,  is  upon  high  terrace  ground, 
near  the  Bull's  Head  Neck,  on  the  Con- 
garee,  just  above  its  meeting  with  the 


268 


SOUTH  OABOUNA. 


The  Mountain  Beglon. 


Wuteree,  88  miles  below  Oolumbia,  and 
en  route  thence  from  Charleston. 

Ohanw,  near  the  northern  Une  of 
the  State,  u  at  present  207  miles  iVom 
Charleston,  and  12&mjUes  from  Colum- 
bia by  railway.  The  north-eastem  rail- 
way, now  partly  in  operation,  will  open  a 
direct  and  much  nearer  route  from  the 
former  city,  and  a  direct  road  from  Ufa 
latter  is  in  contemplation.  Cheraw  is 
on  the  Great  Pedee  Birer^  at  the  head 
of  steam  navigation. 

Qrangvburgi  is  on  the  line  of  the* 
South  Cardina  (Columbia  branch)  Rail- 
way, 9*7  miles  from  Charleston,  and  49 
from  Columbia.  It  is  a  spot  of  historic 
intereflt,  near  the  banks  of  the  Edisto 
River.  It  formed  a  link  in  the  chain  of 
military  posts  fetablishedby  the  British 
after  the  fall  of  Charleston.  Amonff  the 
old  relics  here,  are  some  remuns  of  the 
works  erected  by  Kawdon,  near  the 
iBdisto,  and  the  old  Court  House,  which 
bears  traces,  in  the  shape  of  bullet 
marks,  of  the  assault  made  by  Sumter 
in  1781. 

Bataw  Spring!.  This  interesting 
spot,  the  scene  of  the  famous  battle 
of  Eutaw,  is  about  40  miles  below 
Orangeburg,  and  60  miles  north-west 
of  Charleston. 

tm!  MOUNTAIN  YILLAOEB  AND  80E- 
NEBY  OP  SOUTH  OABOLINA. 

Hie  northern  districts  of  So  ith  Ca- 
rolina, form,  with  the  neighboring  hill 
region  of  Georgia,  and  the  western 
portion  of  North  Carolina,  one  of  the 
ipost  interesting  chapters  in  the  great 
volume  of  American  landscape  beauty 
and  wonder.  In  mountain  surprises; 
j^cturesque  valley  nooks,  and  deUcious 
waterfalb,  this  re^on  is  nowhere  sur- 
passed in  all  the  Union.  Beautiful  and 
healthful  villages,  with  high  social  at- 
tractions, i^ord  most  agreeable  homes 
and  head-quarters  to  the  hunter  of  the 
picturesque.  These  villages  are  &vorite 
summer  resorts  of  the  people  of  the 
lowlands  of  the  State;  and  their  elegant 
mansions  and  villas  are  everv  year  more 
and  more  embellishing  all  tne  vicinage. 

Chraenville,in  the  north-west  comer 
of  the  State,  lies  at  the  threshold  of  the 


chief  beauties  of  this  region,  and  gives 
ready  access  to  all  the  rest.  It  is  dis- 
tant by  railway — ^fVom  Charleiiton,  271 
miles — ^from  Columbia.  128  miles.  The 
village  is  beautifully  situated  on  Reedy 
River,  near  its  source,  and  at  the  foot  of 
the  Saluda  Mountain.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  popular  summer  resorts  in  the  up- 
oounty  of  Carolina,  being  in  the  imftae- 
diate  vicinity  of  the  Table  Hoontain, 
the  White  Water,  and  the  SUtdiing 
Falls,  the  Jocassee,  and  Saluda  Vattovs, 
the  Keowee  lUver,  Paris  Xou&tain, 
CiBsar's  Head,  and  numerous  othiBf  bold 
peaks  of  the  Blue  Udm. 

The  Table  Monatidn  is  in  Pickens 
District,  in  the  north-west  comer  of 
South  Carolina,  about  20  mile»  above 
the  village  of  Greenville.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  remai'kable  of  the  natuhd  wonders 
of  the  State,  rising  as  it  does  4,800  feet 
above  the  sea,  with  a  long  extent  on 
one  side  of  perpendicular  clifik,  1,000 
feet  in  height.  The  view  of  these  grand 
and  lofty  rocky  ledges  is  exceecuogly 
fine  from  the  quiet  glens  of  the  valley 
of  the  cove  below,  and  not  less  impodng 
is  the  splendid  amphitheatre  of  hUl-tops 
seen  from  its  crown.  The  record  of  one 
of  our  own  journeys  to  this  interesting 
locality  stands  thus  in  our  note-book : 

Approaching  the  broad  perpendicular 
side  of  the  mountain,  at  its  base,  we 
came  upon  it  suddenly ;  a  right-angled 
descent  in  our  path  revealed  one  of  the 
most  charming  coup  cCml*  I  ever  en- 
joyed. In  the  foreground  lay,  in  pas- 
toral beauty,  the  sweet  valley  of  the 
cove,  diversified  with  greensward  and 
cultivated  land,  and  embellished  with 
a  most  picturesque  and  orthodox  log- 
cabin.  In  the  nuddle  ground,  rose  from 
the  bosom  of  the  vale,  a  line  of  mouu- 
tainsj  robed  in  richest  verdure,  upon 
which,  as  a  crowning  point,  the  mighty 
Rock  displayed  its  towering  front.  Be- 
sides tliese  magic  features,  were  others 
of  winning  beauty.  Turning  the  eye, 
the  Bald  Hountm,  Ciesar's  Head,  and 
other  chains,  were  i^sible.  The  ear, 
too,  detected,  though  unseen,  the  in- 
fantile murmurings  of  the  Saluda  River, 
as  it  swept  through  the  valley,  from  its 
source,  a  few  miles  north  of  the  great 


II 


80UTB  CABOUVA. 


S8» 


ear. 


The  HUl  RaififOh-JlMt  Momteln. 


mrnut^MUua 


Table  Moontetn,  8. 0. 


Rock,  and  between  it  and  the  a^oinlng  I 
space  of.  the  AUeghanies.  The  Stool 
Hountdn  to  the  left,  and  near  the  Rock, 
forms  a  prominent  feature  in  the  jhc- 
tnre.  I  was  told  a  pretty  Indian  le- 
gend, substantiadng  the  former  ex- 
istence  of  an  aboriginal  brobdignagian, 
whose  colossal  person  and  lordly  appe- 
tite could  be  satisfied  with  no  humbler 
seat  than  the  **  Stool"  in  question,  and 
no  less  a  board,  than  the  noble  '*  Table." 
Hence  the  names.  Such  accommoda- 
tions  would  suit  well  for  the  statue  of 
the  prince,  into  which  the  Grecian 
sculptor  was  assigned  the  trifling  task 
of  cutting  the  Athenian  Acropolis  I 
The  Rock,  of  course,  derives  its  name 
from  its  resemblance  in  form  to  the 
table.  This  resemblance,  however,  is 
only  general  It  is  a  solid  mass,  ob- 
long in  form.  The  northern  front  per- 
pendicular, and  over  half  a  mUe  in  ex- 
tent. The  eastern  is  considerably  in- 
clined. The  southern  admits  of  easy 
ascent.  On  the  north,  the  elevation  of 
the  rock  is  about  1,000  feet,  gradually 
declining  towards  the  western  verge. 
The  entire  elevation  above  the  level  of 
the  sea  is  4,800  feet. 
A  long  and  toilsome  i-amblc,  over 


hill  and  dale,  led  UB  to  the  foot  of  the 
Rock  at  the  usual  place  of  ascent,  on 
the  eastern  facade.  On  the  way,  we 
encountered  near  the  Rock  a  little  lake, 
more  properly  called  the  "  Pool.*'  It 
was  environed  with  straggling  and  maft- 
sive  pieces  of  stone,  that  had  fallen  at 
various  times  from  above.  Probably 
crumbs,  that  escaped  at  the  orgies  of 
the  before-mentioned  ideal  lord  of  the 
domain.  The  ascent  is  made  by,  means 
of  flights  of  wooden  steps^  secured  to 
the  rock.  Of  these  steps,  we  counted 
about  180.  They  are  substantially 
btdlt,  and  with  the  assistance  of  the 
rail  or  banister,  the  passage  is  safe  and 
tolerably  easy.  From  the  summit  we 
enjoyed  a  wide-spread  and  most '  eor 
chanting  panorama. 

Among  the  many  monntains  seen 
from  our  eyry  station,  was  the  com'* 
manding  form  of  Caesar's  Head.  It  is 
the  highest  in  the  vicinity,  and  well  de- 
serving a  visit.  Across  this  valley  was 
the  distant  gleam  of  the  Fall  of  Slicking; 
its  long  line  of  sparkling  spray  height- 
ened wuch  the  beauty  of  the  scene. 
The  Stool  Mountun,  which  is  prominent 
from  the  valley  below,  here  dwindles 
to  its  proper  height. 


.5 


260 


SOUTH  OABOLINA. 


The  Falls  of  Blioking— Pendleton— Home  of  Oalhonn. 


The  top  of  the  Reok,  which  is  com- 
paratively  level,  is  of  great  extent.  In 
many  places  tlie  sumce  is  stony,  in 
others  alluvial  and  covered  with  noble 
trees.  Near  the  centre,  the  remains  of 
a  hut  exist;  a  building  erected  as  a 
kitchen  to  a  hotel,  which  it  was  once 
Contemplated  to  erect  on  the  Rock. 
Though  the  enterprise  was  given  up,  it 
is  not  at  all  impracticable.  The  60  or 
60  acres  of  tillable  land  might  f\irni8h 
provisions,  *while  for  water,  there  is  a 
spring,  of  the  most  grateful  purity  aod 
coolness,  near  the  middle  of  the  isolated 
and  elevated  demesne. 

TlM  Fans  of  BHftMng  are  in  the 
mountain  glens,  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  valley,  at  the  base  of  the  Table  Rock. 

Leaving  the  cabin  at  the  base  of  the 
Saluda  mountain,  the  tourist  in  his  as- 
cent,  foon  finds  himpelf  following  the 
WincUngs  of  the  river.  After  the  pas- 
sage of  about  one-quarter  of  a  mile  he 
reaches  the  **  Trunk,"  hO  called  from  its 
being  the  point  of  junction  of  two  dif- 
ferent branches  of  the  river  or  creek ; 
the  distance  between  these  streams  as 
you  continue  to  ascend,  gradually  in- 
creases, and  when  near  the  summit  they 
are  widely  separated;  they  bear  one 
name,  and  abound,  each,  in  cascades. 
The  right-hand  branch  is  the  more  pic- 
turesque, and  is  the  one  by  which  the 
visitor  is  usually  conducted. 

The  *'Trank"  is  decidedly  the  gem 
of  all  the  locales,  and  for  that  reason 
many  forbear  visiting  it  as  they  aneend 
the  mountain,  philosophically  leaving  it 
until  they  have  surveyed  the  lesser 
beauties.  Such  shall  be  our  course 
now.  Following  then  the  right  or  south 
branch  of  the  stream,  the  traveller  is 
now  Idst  amid  the  forest  trees,  and  now 
reaching  a  spread  of  table-land,  sees  at 
his  feet  a  tranquil  stream;  above  him 
sport  the  featherji  waters;  below,  wave 
the  tops  of  giant  trees ;  and  beyond 
nrises,  in  majestic  grandeur,  the  Table 
Rock,  surroimded  by  numerous  attend- 
ant peaks.  Again  he  is  hidden  in  the 
thick  foliage,  and  again  and  again  he 
reaches  the  rocky  terrace  with  its  basin 
and  its  cascade,  and  its  mountain  dis- 
tance, each  view  improved  by  the  in- 


creased elevation.    Near  the  summit  is 
such  a  terrace  as  I  describe,  with  a  per- 

fondicular  fall  of  considerable  extent, 
rom  this  point  is  a  charming  view  of 
the  neighboring  mountains  of  Caesar's 
Head,  Bald  Mountain,  the  Pinnacle  Rock 
and  other  spurs.  This  site  is  second 
only  to  the  "  Trunk/'  to  which  w«  now 
return. 

At  the  **  Trunk  "— «  scene  of  remat-k- 
able  charms,  where  one  maylingor  long 
unweariedly — the  two  streams  ndl  per- 
pendicularly some  70  feet,  mil^^g  in 
OKO  in  the  basin  below.  TbIijMsin  is 
easily  accessible,  and  nowhere  fii  ttiere 
a  more  secluded  or  more  wildly  pictu- 
resque spot.  Save  when  In  his  Aierid- 
ian,  the  sun's  rays  seldom  violate  its 
solitude.  On  one  side  are  the  twp  cas- 
cades lea[)ing  in  snowy  masses  ttom 
rock  to  rock,  and  on  others  are  mighty 
bulwarks  of  venerable  stone,  here  and 
there  studded  with  the  adventurous 
shrub  or  overhung  with  rich  foliage. 

Pendleton  is  an  agreeable  little  vil- 
lage, on  Eighteen  Mile  Greek,  Anderson 
District,  in  the  mountain  region  of  the 
north-west  comer  of  South  Carolina. 
The  South  Carolina  Railway  and  its 
branches  approach  a  few  miles  below  at 
Anderson  Court  House,  thus  very  near- 
ly connecting  it  with  Charleston,  Colum- 
bia, Qreenville,  and  most  of  the  middle 
towns  of  the  State.  It  is  interesting, 
from  its  vicinage  to  much  picturesque 
scenery,  and  to  Fort  Hill,  once  the  home 
of  Calhoun. 

Port  Bill,  once  the  residence  of  the 
statesman  John  C.  Calhoun,  is  a  few 
miles  only  from  the  village  of  Pendle- 
ton. It  is  a  plun  but  comfortable  build- 
ing of  wood,  with  piazzas  and  other 
fittings  and  arrangements,  after  the 
usual  fashion  of  southern  country  houses. 
Here  Mr.  Calhoun  lived  in  his  months 
of  release  from  the  toils  of  public  life, 
venerated  by  the  humblest  and  highest 
of  his  neighbors  for  his  noble  and  gen- 
tle private  virtues  and  graces,  no  less 
than  he  was  honored  abroad  for  his 
unrivalled  genius  as  a  statesman  and 
orator. 

Walhella,  a  flourishing  German  set* 
tlement,  is  in  this  region. 


11 


SOUTH  OABOZJNA. 


9M 


Piokeiu-Th«  KeowM-^oeuM*  YMtj-Hh*  White  Water  OaXaneU. 


The  Keowee  Blver,  8.  0. 


Plokeiui  Oonrt  House  is  a  few 
hoaro'  ride,  on  horseback  or  carriage, 
north  of  Pendleton  and  west  of  Green- 
ville. It  is  within  excursion  distance 
of  the  Keowee  Hirer,  the  Valley  of  Jo- 
casses,  the  Cataract  oflthe  White  Water 
and  other  interesting  scenes. 

Tho  Eeowee,  a  beautiful  mountain 
stream,  in  Pickens  District,  S.  C,  with 
the  Tugaloo  River,  forms  the  Savannah. 
The  road  to  the  Valley  of  Jocassee  lies 
along  its  banks. 

**  I  have  been  where  the  tides  roll  by, 
Of  mighty  rivers  deep  and  wide, 
On  every  wave  an  argosy — 

And  cities  bullded  on  each  side : 
Where  the  low  din  of  commerce  fills 
The  wr  with  strife  that  never  stills. 

Tet  not  to  me  have  scenes  like  these, 
Such  charms  as  thine,  oh  peerless  stream  I 

Not  cities  proud  my  eye  can  please- 
Not  angles  so  rich  I  deem — 

As  thy  cload-vested  hills  that  rise— 

And  forests  looming  to  the  skies  P 

The  Eeowee  region  is  full  of  romantic 
memories  of  the  Cherokee  wars. 

The  JooaiMB  Valley,  in  Pickens 
District,  near  the  northern  line  of  the 
State,  is  one  of  the  most  charmingly 


secluded  little  nooks  in  the  world,  en- 
vironed as  it  is  on  every  ride,  except 
that  through  which  the  Eeowee  steua 
out,  by  grand  mountain  ridges.  The 
chief  charm  of  Jocassee  is,  that  it  is 
small  enough  to  be  felt  and  enjoyed  all 
at  once,  as  its  entire  area  is  not  too 
much  for  one  comfortable  picture.  It 
is  such  a  valley  as  painters  delight  in. 

The  White  Water  Oatanota  are 
an  hour  or  two's  tramp  yet  north  of 
Jocassee.  Their  chief  beauty  is  in  thrir 
picturesque  lines  and  in  the  variety  and 
boldness  of  the  mountain  landscape 
all  around:  though  they  would  still 
muntain  their  claims  to  the  universal 
admiration,  for  their  extent  alone,  even 
were  the  accessory  scenes  far  less  beau- 
tiful than  they  are.  The  number  of 
visitors  here  is  increasing  year  by  year, 
and  the  time  is  approaching  when  this 
and  the  thousand  other  marvels  of  na- 
ture in  the  Southern  States  will  win 
tourists  from  the  north,  as  the  White 
Mountains  and  the  Catskills,  and  Tren- 
ton and  Lake  Geerge  now  a^ract  pil« 
grims  from  the  South. 

Adjoining  this  most  attractive  region 
of  South  Carolina,  and  easily  accessible 


S62 


SOUTH  QABOXOirA. 


Bpftrtenbnrf— Battto'llalda  of  tk*  Oowp«iu  ud  of  Klng'i  MoanUln— YorkvUle. 


tb«refiroin,  are  the  many  bMutiful  soenes 
of  the  WMtera  portion  ot  North  Caro- 
lina, of  whiob  we  hare  already  ipcdcen, 
and  of  Tallulah  and  Tooooa  and  Vonah 
and  Naoooohee  and  numerous  other 
lovelv  spote  in  the  hiU-raslon  of  Qeor^a, 
which  we  hare  yet  to  ylait. 

Bwurtnabiiif  in  connected  with 
Chane«ton  by  ridlway  via  Oolumbia, 
and  Union<— distance  220  miles.  The 
village  of  Spartanbuiv  is  in  the  midst 
of  a  mineral  region,  umous  for  its  gold 
and'  iron.  Here,  too,  are  some  cele- 
brated limestone  springs.  The  {dace  is 
the  seat  of  a  Univernty,  endowed  by 
Be|\Jamia  Wofford^  an4  controlled  by 
the  Methodists;  alM  of  a  prosperous 
Female  College.  A  distinguLBhed  Asy- 
lum for  the  Deaf,  Dumb  and  Blind  is 
located  here.  Within  the  limits  of  this 
district  is  the  memonible  revolutionary 
•battle-Aeld  of  the  Oowpens. 

Tha  BattlftiMd  of  tiM  Oowptna, 
(January  17,  1781,)  is  on  the  hill-range 
called  the  Thiokety  Mountain.  In  the 
olden  time  the  cattle  were  suffered  to 
grase  upon  the  scene  of  the  contest— 
from  whence  its  name.  Without  re- 
viewing the  incidents  in  detail  of  the 
important  fight  of  the  Cowpens,  we  will 
remind  the  reader  that  it  was  a  brave 
one,  resulting  in  the  defeat  and  retreat 
of  the  British  under  Tarleton,  with  a 
loss  of  10  oiBcers  and  90  privates  killed, 
and  28  oflScers  and  600  privates  taken 

?irisoners.'^  The  American  loss  was  about 
0,  of  whom  CMiIy  12  were  killed. 
TorkrrUlo^  midway  on  the  upper 
boundary  of  South  Carolina,  is  in  the 
heart  of  its  beautiful  mountain  scenery, 
aud  is,  besides,  the  particular  point 
from  whence  the  tourist  may  the  most 
eauly  and  speedily  reach  the  scenes  of 
the  historic  events,  wliich  so  heighten 
the  pleasure  of  travel  in  all  this  region 
—every  pbmtation  telling  a  thrilling 
tale  of  its  own — ^for  during  the  last  three 
years  of  the  war  of  the  Revolution, 
there  was  unceasing  struggle  here,  be- 
tween the  partisMi  bands  of  the  patriots 
and  the  British  troops. 

Eoute.  YorkviUe  is  212  miles  from 
Charioston  by  the  South  Carolina  Rail- 
way and  the  Columbia  Branch  to  Colum- 


bia, thence  by  the  Charlotte  and  Sooth 
Carolina  Railway  to  Chester,  and  thenoo 
bv  the  King's  Mountain  Railway  to 
Yorkville.  A  line  of  railways  cornea 
b  at  Chester,  just  below  YorkviUe,  from 
Weldon  and  Goldsboro',  N.  C.  (on  the 
great  Aorthem  and  Southern  ronte^, 
via  Raleigh  and  Charlotte,  N.  0.  This 
is  a  pleasant  access  from  New  Toric, 
via  the  mountain  region  ^f  North -Caro* 
Una,  to  that  of  South  Carolina  and 
Qeorf^a. 

The  village  of  Torkville  is  situated 
upon  an  elevated  plain  on  the  dividing 
ridge  between  the  Catawba  and  the 
Broad  Rivers.  In  the  vicinage  there 
are  some  valuable  sulphur  and  magnesia 
waters,  to  add  to  the  attractions  of 
winning  scenery  and  roraantlo  story 
which  tne  region  so  abundantly  offers 
to  the  tourist. 

Bing^  Mountain  Battl^fidd  lies 
about  12  miles  north-east  of  Yorkville, 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  south  of  the 
North  Carolina  line.  The  King's  Moun- 
tain range  extends  about  sixteen  miles 
southward,  sending  out  lateral  spurs 
in  various  directions.  The  scene  of  the 
memorable  battle  fought  in  -this  strange 

Klace  is  just  below  the  summit  of  the 
ill.  A  simple  monument  to  the  memory 
of  Ferguson  and  others  marks  the  spot, 
and  on  the  right  there  is  a  large  tulip* 
tree,  upon  which  it  is  said  ten  tories 
were  banged. 

The  story  of  the  eventM  battle  of 
King's  Mountain  is  thus  told  in  the  words 
of  General  Q&tea :  **  On  receiving  intelli- 
gence,'' he  says  in  his  report,  "that 
M^jor  Ferguson  had  advanced  up  as 
high  as  Gilbert  Town,  in  Rutherford 
County,  and  threatened  to  cross  the 
mountains  to  the  western  Waters,  Col. 
William  Campbell  with  400  men  from 
Washington  County,  Virginia,  Colonel 
Isaac  Shelby  with  240  men  from  SulU- 
van  County,  N.  C,  and  Lieut.  Colonel 
John  Sevier  with  240  men  of  Washing- 
ton County,  N.  C,  assembled  at  Wat- 
auga, on  the  26th  of  September  (1780)^ 
where  they  were  joined  bv  Col.  Charles 
McDowell  with  160  men  from  the  coun- 
ties of  Burke  and  Rutherford,  having 
fled  before  the  enemy  to  the  western 


SOUTH  OABOUNA. 


268 


BaUlt-ileld  of  King'*  Moaataia. 


witn.  We  began  oar  maroh  on  the 
Mth,  Mid  on  the  80th  we  were  Joined 
by  Oot  OleftTeknd,  on  the  Catawba 
lUrer,  with  860  men  from  the  counties 
of  WiUiea  and  Surry.  No  one  officer 
having  properly  a  right  to  the  command 
in  chief,  on  the  1st  of  October  we  de- 
spatched an  express  to  Mi^or  (General 
Gates,  informing  him  of  onr  situation, 
and  requesting  nim  to  send  a  general 
officer  to  talie  command  of  the  whole. 

"  In  the  mean  time  Col.  Campbell  was 
chosen  to  act  as  ooramandaht,  until 
such  general  officer  should  arrive.  We 
marched  to  the  Cowptna  on  Broad 
Biver,  in  South  Carolina,  where  we 
were  Joined  by  Col.  James  Williams, 
with  400  men,  on  the  evening  of  the  6th 
of  October,  who  informed  us  that  the 
enemy  lay  encamped  somewhere  near 
the  Cherokee  Ford  of  Broad  River, 
about  80  ndles  distant  from  us.  By  a 
council  of  piincip^  officers  it  was  then 
thought  advisable  to  pursue  the  enemy 
that  lUght  with  900  of  the  beat  horse- 
men,  and  have  the  weak  horses  and  foot- 
men to  follow  us  as  fast  as  possible.  We 
began  our  march  with  900  of  the  best 
men  abont  8  o'clock  the  same  evening, 
and  marching  all  eight,  came  up  wiw 
the  enemy  about  8  o^look,  p.  x .,  of  the 
9th,  who  lay  encamped  on  the  top  of 
Kiiijg's  Mountdn,  la  miles  north  of  the 
Cherokee  Ford,  in  the  confidence  that 
they  would  not  be  forced  from  so  ad- 
vantageous a  pass.  Previous  to  the 
attaok,  on  our  march  the  following  dis- 
posidon  was  made :  Col.  Shelby's  regi- 
ment formed  a  column  in  the  centre  on 
the  left.  Col.  Campbell's  regiment  an- 
other on  the  right,  while  part  of  Colonel 
Cleaveland's  regiment,  headed  in  front 
by  Mi^or  Jose^  Winston  and  Colonel 
Sevier  formed  a  large  colunfn  on  the 
right  wing.  The  other  part  of  Cleave- 
land's  regiment,  headed  by  Colonel 
Cleaveland  himself,  and  CoL  Williams* 
regiment  composed  the  left  wing.  In 
this  order  we  advanced,  and  got  within 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  enemy  before 
we  were  discovered.  Col.  Shelby's  and 
Gol.  Campbell's  regiments  began  the 
attack,  and  kept  up  a  fire  on  the  enemy, 
while  the  right  and  left  wings  were  ad- 


vancing to  surround  them,  #hlch  was 
done  in  abont  five  minutes,  and  the  fire 
became  general  all  around.  The  en- 
gagement lasted  an  hour  and  fire  min- 
utes, the  greater  part  of  which  time 
a  heavv  and  incessant  fire  was  kept  up 
on  both  sides.  Our  men  in  some  parts 
where  the  regulars  fought,  were  obliged 
to  give  way  a  distance,  two  or  three 
times,  but  rallied  and  returned  with 
additional  ardor  to  the  attack.  The 
troops  upon  the  right  having  gained 
the  summit  of  the  eminence,  ^Uged 
the  enemy  to  retreat  along  the  top  of 
the  ridge  to  where  Col.  Cleaveland  com- 
manded, and  were  there  stopped  by  his 
brave  men.  A  fiag  of  truce  was  imme- 
diately hoisted  by  Captain  Depevster, 
the  commanding  officer  ( Major  Fergu- 
son having  been  killed  a  little  before), 
for  a  surrender.  Our  fire  immediately 
ceased,  and  the  enemy  lidd  down  their 
arms  (the  greater  part  of  them  charged) 
and  surrendered  themselves  prisoners 
at  discretion.  It  appears  firom  their 
own  provision  returns  for  that  dav, 
found  in  their  camp,  that  their  whole 
force  consisted  of  1,125  men.  *  *  Total 
loss  of  the  British,  1,106  men,  kiUed, 
wounded,  or  made  prisoners." 

"No  battle  during  the  war,**  says 
Mr.  Lossing,  in  his  Reld  Book  where 
we  find  the  preceding  report  of  the 
struegle  at  King's  Mountain, "  was  more 
obstinately  contested  than  this :  for  the 
Americans  were  greatly  exasperated  by 
the  cruelties  of  the  Tories,  and  to  the 
latter  it  was  a  question  of  life  and  death. 
It  was  with  ^ffloulty  that  the  Ameri- 
cans, remembering  Tarleton's  cruelty  at 
Buford's  defeat,  could  be  restrained  from 
slaughter,  even  after  quarter  was  asked. 
In  addition  to  the  loss  of  men  on  the 
part  of  the  enemy  mentioned  in  the  re- 
port, theAmericans  took  from  them  1 ,600 
stand  of  arms.  The  loss  of  the  Ameri- 
cans in  killed  was  only  twenty,  bat  they 
had  a  great  number  wounded."  Battle 
fought  Oct.  7, 1780. 

Crowder's  Knob,  the  highest  peak 
of  King's  Mountidn,  is  about  8,000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  Mountdn  Gap,  near  the  Chero- 
kee Ford,  the  Great  Falls  of  the  Oataw- 


264 


FLORIDA. 


Historical  and  Topographical  Mention. 


ba,  and  Rocky  Mount,  the  scene  of 
another  of  the  partisan  struggles,  and 
Hanging  Rock,  where  Sumter  fought  a 


desperate  fight,  are  other  interesting 
scenes  and  localities  of  this  hiil-region 
of  Carolina. 


FLOEIDA. 

Vlobida  is  much  vbited  when  cold  winter  winds  and  snows  preyail,  by  those 
who  love  mild  and  balmy  atmospheres,  and  especially  by  invalids  in  quest  of 
health-restoriug  climates.  The  villages  of  St.  Augustine,  Jacksonville,  Pilatka 
and  neighboring  places,  which  are  those  most  particularly  sought,  are  near  the 
Atlantic  coast,  in  the  extreme  north-eastern  part  of  the  State.  They  may  be 
speedily  and  pleasantly  reached  by  steamers  from  Charleston  and  Savannah,  as 
we  shall  show,  after  a  very  hasty  peep  at  the  specialities  in  the  history  and  char- 
acter of  the  region. 

The  shrine  of  the  life  and  health-^ving  Goddess,  Hygeia,  was  sought  uhder  the 
southern  skies  of  Florida  centuries  ago,  as  it  is  to-day.  Ponce  de  Leon  came  here 
in  1512,  hoping  to  find  the  fabled  fountain  of  perpetual  jonth  and  strength.  He 
was  not  so  fortunate,  though  thousands  of  others  have  since  been,  in  a  grate- 
ful degree.  \ 

After  the  brave  De  Leon,  came  Narvaez,  more  unlucky  still,  for  when  he  had 
resolutely  penetrated  to  the  interior  with  his  four  hundred  gallant  followers,  no 
man  ever  heard  of  him  or  of  them  again.  ^ 

De  Soto  followed  in  1639,  with  a  not  much  happier  reward,  for  t^-ough  he 
subdued  the  savages  and  took  possession  of  their  land,  it  was  only  tb  leave  it 
again  and  to  pass  on.  Battle  and  strife  have,  with  intervals  of  quiet,  so  charac- 
terized  Florida,  almost  to  the  present  day,  that  its  name  would  seem  but  irony, 
did  it  really  refer,  as  is  generally  supposed,  to  the  floral  vegetation  of  the  soil, 
instead  of  to  the  simple  happening  of  the  discovery  of  the  country  on  Fatcrna 
Florida,  or  Palm  Sunday. 

The  earliest  settlements  in  Florida  were  made  by  the  French,  but  they  were 
driven  out  by  the  Spaniards,  who  established  themselves  securely  at  St.  Augus- 
tine in  1666,  many  years  before  any  other  settlement  was  made  on  the  western 
shores  of  the  Atlantic.  Before  the  Revolution,  Florida  warred  with  the  English 
Colonies  of  Carolina  and  Georgia,  and  passed  into  British  possession  in  ItdS.  It 
was  reconquered  by  Spain  in  1781,  and  from  that  period  until  within  very  late  years, 
it  has  been  the  field  of  Indian  occupation  and  warfare.  The  reconquest  by  Spain 
in  1781,  was  confirmed  m  1783,  and  in  1821  that  power  ceded  .he  country  to 
the  United  States.  Its  territorial  organization  was  made  in  18!^*),  and  its  ad- 
mission into  the  Union  as  a  State  occurred  March  3,  1846.  A  saaguinary  war 
was  waged  from  1834  to  1842,  between  the  troops  of  the  United  States  and 
the  Indian  occupants,  the  Sejninoles,  led  by  their  famous  chief  Osceola. — 
Since  that  period  the  savages  have  been  removed  to  other  territory,  excepting 
Bome  remnants  still  in  possession  of  the  impenetfable  swamps  and  jungles  of 
the  lower  portions  of  the  State. 

Florida  is  the  grand  peninsula  forming  the  extreme  South-eastern  part  of  the 
United  States.  Its  entire  area  eastward  lies  upon  the  Atlantic,  and  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico  washes  ahnost  the  whole  of  the  western  side.  Georgia  and  Alabama  are 
upon  the  north.  The  country  is  for  the  most  part  level,  being  nowhere  more 
than  250  or  300  feet  above  the  sea.  "  The  southern  part  of  the  peninsula,"  says 
Mr.  De  Bow,  in  his  "  Resourses  of  the  South  and  West,"  "  is  covered  with  a 
large  sheet  of  water  called  the  Everglades — an  immense  area,  fiUed  with  islands, 
which  it  is  supposed  may  be  reclumed  by  dnunage.  The  central  portion  of  the 
State  is  somewhat  elevated,  the  highest  point  being  about  1*71  feet  above  the 


FLORIDA. 


265 


Land8oqp«  of  the  State— The  Bt  John's  Biver. 


interesting 
1  hiil-region 


il,  by  those 
in  quest  of 
lie,  Pilatka 
re  near  the 
iey  may  be 
ivannab,  as 
)r  and  char- 
it  uhder  the 
I  came  here 
sngth.  He 
in  a  grate- 

hen  he  had 
tllowers,  no 

'  though  he 
'  tb  leave  it 
,  so  charac* 
i  but  irony, 
>f  the  soil, 
on  JPasiTta 


they  were 
Augus- 
ic  western 
he  English 

lies.  It 

ate  years, 
it  by  Spain 

ountry  to 
id  its  ad' 
linary  war 
States  and 
Dsceola. — 

excepting 
ungles  of 

irt  of  the 
e  Gulf  of 
ibama  are 
lere  more 
ula,"  says 
ed  with  a 
ih  islands, 
on  of  the 
bove  the 


ocean,  and  gradually  declining  towards  the  coast  on  either  side.  TI16  icountry 
between  the  Suwanee  and  the  Ohattahoochee  is  elevated  and  hilly,  and  the  west- 
em  re^on  la  level.  The  lands  of  Florida,  Mr.  De  Bow  continues,  "  are  almost 
9ui  generia,  very  curiously  distributed,  and  may  be  designated  as  high  hummock, 
low  hummock,  swamp,  savannas,  and  the  different  qualitios  of  fine  land.  High 
hummock  is  usually  timbered  with  live  and  other  oaks,  with  magnolia,  laurel, 
etc.,  and  is  considered  the  best  description  of  land  for  general  purposes.  Low 
hummock,  timbered  with  live  and  water  oak,  is  subject  to  overflows,  but  when 
drained  is  preferred  for  sugar.  Savannas,  on  the  margins  of  streams  and  in  de- 
tached bodies,  are  usually  very  rich  and  alluvions,  yielding  largely  in  dry  seasons, . 
but  needing,  at  other  times,  ditching  and  dyking.  Marsh  savannas,  on  the  bor- 
ders of  tide  streams,  are  very  valuable  when  reclaimed  for  rice  or  sugar-cane. 

The  swampy  island-filled  lake  otdled  the  Everglades,  is  covered  with  a  dense 
jungle  of  vines  and  evergreens,  pines  and  palmettos.  It  lies  south  of  Okechobee, 
and  is  160  miles  long  and  60  broad.  Its  depth  varies  from  one  to  six  feet.  A 
rank  tall  grass  springs  from  the  vegetable  deposits  at  the  bottom,  and  rising 
above  the  surface  of  the  water,  gives  th  3  lake  the  deceitful  air  of  a  beautifiH 
verdant  lawn.  The  soil  is  well  adapted,  it  is  thought,  to  the  production  of  the 
plantain  and  the  banana. 

In  the  interior  of  Florida  there  is  a  chun  of  lakes,  of  which  the  extreme 
southern  link  is  Lake  Okechobee,  nearly  20  miles  in  length.  Many  of  these 
waters  are  extremely  picturesque  in  their  own  unique  beauty  of  wild  and  rank 
tropical  vegetation. 

The  rivers  of  the  State  are  numerous,  and,  like  the  lakes,  present  every  where 
to  the  eye  of  the  stranger  very  novel  attractions  in  the  abundance  and  variety  of 
the  trees  and  shrubs  and  vines  which  line  all  their  shores  and  bayous.  The 
largest  of  the  many  rivers  is  the  Appalachicola,  which  crosses  the  western  arm 
of  the  State  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The  St.  Mary's  is  the  boundary  on  the 
extreme  northern  corner,  Georgia  being  upon  the  opposite  bank.  Its  waters  fall 
into  the  Atlantic,  as  do  those  of  the  St.  Johns  rivet,  in  the  same  section  of  the 
State. 


The  St.  JTohrti  River  is  the  point  to 
which  we  purpose  to  direct  the  more 
particular  attention  of  the  tourist  at 
this  time,  not  for  its  own  beauties'  sake 
— ^for  it  is  but  a  straggling,  sluggish 
stream,  possessing  no  very  salient  pic- 
turesque attractions — ^bui  as  the  access 
to  the  famous  winter  and  invalid  resorts 
of  Florida,  the'  villages  of  St.  Augus- 
tine, Jacksonville,  Pilatka  and  other 
places. 

Rovtt  to  St.  At^p*'tine,  etc.  Two 
fine  steamers  leave  Charleston,  S.  C, 
and  three  leave  Savannah,  Geo.,  every 
week  for  Pilatka  on  the  St.  Johns  River. 
Fare  from  either  place  to  Piccolata  (18 
miles  from  St.  Augustine)  $8.  From 
Piccolatta  to  Augustine  (Si  hours  stage) 
one  to  two  dollars.  Charleston  steam- 
ers sometimes  visit  Augustine  direct. 

The  steamer  Darlington  leaves  Jack- 
12 


sonville  every  Saturday  morning  for 
Enterprise,  the  present  limit  of  steam- 
boat navigation  on  the  St.  Johns,  stop- 
ping at  Pilatka  over  Sunday,  resuming 
her  voyage  Monday  morning  and  arriv- 
ing at  Enterprise  that  (Monday)  night. 
Returning,  leaves  Enterprise  Wednes- 
days.   Fare,  $6. 

The  St.  Johns  River  comes  from  a 
marshy  tract  in  the  central  part  of  the 
peninsula,  flowing  first  north-west  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Ochlawaha,  and  thence 
about  northward  to  Jacksonville,  and 
finally  eastward  to  the  Atlantic.  It  is 
navigated  by  steamboats  only  to  Pilatka, 
though  vessels  drawing  eight  feet  of 
water  may  pass  up  107  miles,  to  Lake 
George.  The  entire  length  of  the  river 
is  200  miles.  The  country  which  it 
traverses  is  covered  chiefly  with  dank  cy- 
press swamps  and  desolate  pine  barrens.. 


266 


FLORIDA. 


Invalid  Besorts— Jacksonville— St  Angustine,  etc. 


Jaoksonville^  26  miles  from  the 
mouth  of  the  St.  Johns,  is  the  most  im- 
portant point  on  the  river.  It  is  a  flour- 
ishing, busy  town  of  from  1,000  to  1,600 
inhabitants,  has  numerous  saw-mills  and 
considerable  conunerce.  Many  invalids 
remain  here,  and  seek  no  further.  The 
only  good  hotel  is  the  Judson  House. 

The  next  in  order  frequented  by 
strangers,  is  Fleming's  Island  (47  miles 
up),  situated  at  the  confluence  of  Black 
Creek  with  the  St.  Johns.  It  is  a  quiet, 
home-like  and  pleasant  place,  not  infest- 
ed by  low  company. 

Of  Middlebnrgh,  16  miles  up  Black 
Greek,  report  speaks  favorably.  It  has 
been  but  recently  resorted  to  by  in- 
valids. It  consists  of  a  few  houses  only. 

Magnolia  Mills  (66  miles  up  the 
river),  a  large,  solitary  hotel,  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  St.  Johns,  is  kept  by 
Dr.  Benedict,  a  northern  physician,  of 
established  reputation.  Good  rooms 
and  good  entertainment  may  be  ex- 
pected there. 

Next  comes  Piooolata  (66  miles  up), 
a  village  of  but  one  house,  where  pas- 
sengers for  St.  Augustine,  18  miles  east, 
can  generally  get  a  tolerable  night's 
lodging,  when  desired. 

Pilatka,  on  the  west  bank,  26  miles, 
or  two  hours  further  south,  is  a  new 
and  thriving  town,  deriving  considerable 
trade  from  the  fertile  back  country. 
Here  are  two  or  three  more  or  less  tol- 
erable places  of  entertainment.  Pas- 
sengers for  Orange  Springs  and  Ocala 
take  stage  here. 

Weluca,  on  the  east  bank,  is  a  new 
settlement.  Every  attention  is  shown 
to  strangers  by  its  gentlemanly  propri- 
etor— 110  miles  up  the  St.  Johns. 

Bnterptiae,  also  on  the  east  bank, 
on  Lake  Monroe,  and  the  ultima  thule 
of  steamboat  adventure,  boasts  a  new, 
large,  commodious  and  well  kept  hotel. 
The  hunting  and  fishing  are  good  in 
the  vicinity — 180  miles  up  the  river. 
>.  Thirty  miles  east  from  Enterprise, 
on  the  sea  coast,  and  four  miles  from 
Mosquito  Inlet,  is  New  Smyrna^  con- 
sisting of  two  houses.  Reached  by 
mail  wagon,  once  a  week.  Mr.  Sheldon 
entertains  company,  and  ensures  them 


capital  sport.  Mail  boat  leaves  here 
for  Indian  River  every  second  week. 

St.  Augnitine  is  built  along  the  sea- 
ward side  of  a  narrow  ridge  of  land, 
situated  between  salt  marsh  and  estuary 
half  a  mile  from  the  beach,  two  miles 
from  the  ocean,  in  sight  of  the  bar  and 
light-house,  and  withm  hearing  of  the 
surf.  The  soil  is  sandy  loam  and  de- 
composed shell,  and  is  very  productive. 
Approaching  by  a  bridge  and  causeway 
crossing  the  St.  Sebastian  River  and 
marsh,  we  enter  a  well-shaded  avenue, 
flanked  by  gardens  and  orange  groves, 
which  leads  directly  to  the  centre  of 
the  quaint  old  city.  Here  is  the'  public 
square,  a  neat  enclosure  of  some  two 
acres,  facing  which  on  either  side  stand 
the  Court  House,  the  Market  and  wharf, 
the  Protestant  Episcopal  Church  — a 
plain  building,  in  the  pointed  style, 
handsomely  furnished  —  and  immedi- 
ately opposite,  the  venerable  Roman 
Catholic  Church,  a  striking  edifice  of 
seemingly  great  antiquity,  but  biult  only 
about  eighty  years  ago.  It  is  of  the 
periwig  pattern,  and  in  the  worst  pos- 
sible taste.  One  of  its  bells  bears  date 
1682.  Connected  with  this  church  is 
a  small  convent  and  school. 

A  minute's  walk  brings  us  to  the  sea 
wall  or  breakwater,  a  broad  line  of  mas- 
sive masonry,  built  about  1840  by  order 
of  Government,  at  great  cost,  for  the 
protection  of  the  city,  but  whose  chief 
use  is  that  of  affbrding  to  the  inhabi- 
tants the  pleasantest  promenade  in  fir^e 
weather.  This  wall  extends  half  a  mile 
southward  to  the  now  deserted  barracks 
and  magazine,  and  as  far  northward  to 
Fort  Marion,  formerly  St.  Mark,  a  pic- 
turesque and  decayed 'fortress,  which 
once  commanded  the  whole  harbor, 
looming  up  out  of  the  flat  landscape, 
grand  as  a  Moorish  castle,  and  forming 
the  most  conspicuous  and  interesting 
relic  of  the  Spanish  occupation. 

Parallel  to  this  sea  wall,  run  north 
and  south,  with  &hort  intersections,  the 
three  principal  streets  or  lanes,  long, 
narrow,  without  pavement  or  sidewalk, 
irregularly  built  up  with  •'  dumpy  "  but 
sub<it0  Mai  houses,  rather  dingy  and 
anti-.tnuvian,  mostly  of  stone,  or  with 


,yes  here 

week. 
;  the  8ea< 

of  land, 
>d  estuary 
;wo  miles 
e  bar  and 
kg  of  the 
I  and  de- 
•oductive. 
causeway 
Liver  and 
d  avenue, 
[e  groves, 
centre  of 
the-  public 
some  two 
side  stand 
ind  wharf, 
liurch— a 
ted  style, 
[  immedi- 
e  Roman 
edifice  of 

bmlt  only 

is  of  the 
^orst  pos- 
)ears  date 
church  is 

to  the  sea 

le  of  mas- 

by  order 

,  for  the 

kose  chief 

10  inhabi* 

,de  in  fine 

laLf  a  mile 

barracks 

iward  to 

rk,  a  pic- 

ss,  which 

}  harbor, 

andscape, 

1  forming 

iteresting 

n. 

>un  north 
tions,  the 
les,  long, 
sidewalk, 
npy  "  but 
ingy  and 
or  with 


It 


FLORIDA. 


267 


Bt  Angoatlne. 


the  lower  stories  stone  and  the  upper 
of  wood.  They  have  invariably  the 
chimneys  outside,  and  are  ornamented 
with  projecting  balconies  and  latticed 
verandas,  from  which  the  gay  paint  has 
long  since  faded,  being  all  toned  and 
weather-stained  into  one  sombre  gray 
hue,  which,  in  keeping  with  the  sur- 
roundings, is  the  joint  result  of  age, 
neglect,  sun,  and  saline  ur.  Every 
house  is  separated  from  its  neighbor  by 
more  or  less  of  garden  plot,  ill  protect- 
ed by  broken  fence  and  crumbling  wall, 
wherein  they  raise  two  or  more  crops 
of  vegetables  every  year,  figs  in  per- 
fection, and  roses  in  unmeasured  abun- 
dance. 

Augustine  is  sometimes  styled  the 
"  Ancient  City,*'  and  is,  indeed,  the  old- 
est in  the  United  States.  Its  appear- 
ance is  in  strict  keeping  with  its  vene- 
rable age,  seen  in  unequivocal  marks 
of  decay  and  decrepitation.  Perhaps 
the  triable  nature  of  the  common 
building  material  contributes  to  this 
ruinous  appearance,  all  the  older  houses 
being  coustructed  of  a  stratified  con- 
crete of  minute  shell  and  sand  call- 
ed "coquina,"  in  blocks  conveniently 
obtained,  easily  worked,  hardening  by 
exposure,  but  abrading  and  crumbling 
in  course  of  time.  And  yet  this  mate- 
rial seems  everlasting;  for  the  old 
stuff  of  dilapidated  buildings,  and 
houses  disused  by  diminution  of  popu- 
lation, forms,  by  refitcing,  the  excellent 
material  for  new.  Coquina  houses, 
however,  are  invariably  dark,  and  al- 
ways damp  in  winter,  on  which  account 
frame  dwellings,  although  not  so  cool 
summer  houses,  are  much  preferred  by 
the  innovating  Yankees.  But  the  Mi- 
aorcan,  or  sub-Spanish  population,  etiU 
adhere  to  their  traditions,  and  refuse 
to  be  reformed.  They  build  for  the 
summer  time — the  longest  season — and 
wisely  build,  when  they  do  build,  the 
same  solid,  squat,  low-doored,  narrow- 
windowed,  disagreeably-dark,  and  rheu- 
matically-damp  dwelUngs  as  ever. 
Visitors,  however,  in  choosing  winter 
quarters,  will  do  well  to  prefer  those 
hotels  which  are  of  frame,  and  have  a 
cheerful  sunny  exposure. 


Northerners  seeking  in  Florida  a 
milder  climate  and  permanent  winter 
residence,  have  generally  preferred  St. 
Augustine.  And  with  the  best  reason. 
The  proxunity  of  the  Gulf  Stream  ren- 
ders it  warmer  in  winter  and  cooler  in 
summer,  than  the  settlements  on  the 
St.  Johns  River.  It  is  at  present  the 
most  southern  habitable  phice  on  the 
eastern  coast ;  and  it  has  peculiar  ad- 
vantages over  all  other  towns  in  East 
Florida — ^in  its  churches,  its  company, 
and  its  comforts.  Good  society  may 
always  be  had  there ;  the  citizens  are 
hospitable,  and  among  the  visitors  are 
always  some  agreeable  persons,  culti- 
vated and  distinguished. 

Visitors  begin  to  arrive  about  the 
holidays,  and  the  first  "  stranger  **  is 
looked  for  with  as  much  anxiety  as  the 
first  Connecticut  shad.  From  the  mid- 
dle of  March  iintil  the  middle  of  April 
is  the  height  of  the  season,  and  then 
the  hotels  are  crowded.  Then,  too, 
the  city  is  gay.  Every  body  is  sociable, 
idle,  happy,  sant  aouei.  Pleasure  par- 
ties you  meet  at  every  turn,  groups  on 
every  corner,  bathing  in  the  sweet  air 
that  flows  through  shady  streets  from 
yon  blue  rushing  sea.  Deliciously 
fresh  and  mild  is  the  atmosphere  dur- 
ing the  first  spring  heats.  Then  the  soft 
south  wind  fills  the  senses  with  a  vo- 
luptuous languor,  and  the  evening 
land  breeze  comes  laden  with  the  fra- 
grance of  orange  blossoms  and  the 
breath  of  roses.  A  moonlight  walk 
upon  the  sea  wall  suggests  the  Mediter- 
ranean, and  the  illusion  is  heightened 
by  the  accents  of  a  foreign  tongue. 

The  effect  of  these  happy  climatic 
and  social  conditions  is  very  notice- 
able. The  most  morose  tempers  seem 
to  lose  their  acerbity,  and  even  the 
despairing  invalid  catches  the  contagion 
of  cheernilness. 

Two-thirds  of  the  population  of 
Augustine  (amounting  to  1,300  whites) 
are  of  Spanish  origin,  and  still  speak 
the  Spanish  language.  The  women 
are  pretty,  modest,  dark-eyed  bru- 
nettes ;  dress,  neatly  in  gay  colors,  are 
skilful  at  needlework,  and  good  house- 
wives.   The  men  exhibit  equally  char- 


268 


FLORIDA. 


St  Angnstlner-St  Ifary— Tallalussee. 


acteristic  traits  of  race  and  national- 
ity. The  people  are  generally  poor. 
There  are  no  manufactures.  The  town 
produces  little,  and  exports  nothing — 
its  chief  support,  since  the  loss  of  its 
orange  groves,  being  derived  from 
Government  offices,  receipts  from 
strangers,  and  the  hire  of  slaves.  It 
has  one  saw-mill,  rarely  running.  It 
has  a  bathing-house,  for  the  preven- 
tion of  sickness,  and  three  good  physi- 
cians and  a  dentist  to  cure  it.  Perhaps 
no  city  in  the  Union  is  healthier  than 
Augustine. 

St.  Augustine  is  well  fhmished  with 
Hotels  and  boarding-houses,  and  there 
is  unusually  ample  and  comfortable  ac- 
commodation for  all  comers.  The 
principal  hotels  are,  first,  HisMaamlia, 
B.  E.  Garr  proprietor — a  well-built, 
weU-kept,  and  well-furnished  resort,  sur- 
rounded by  a  garden  and  shrubbery. 
This  is  much  the  most  comfortable  and 

gleasant  house  in  town,  and  probably 
I  the  State.  Its  situation  and  appoint- 
ments are  better,  beyond  comparison, 
than  those  of  its  rival,  The  Planters, 
Mrs.  Cook,  lessee,  a  popular  hotel, 
which,  by  good  management,  got  a  run, 
and  contrived  to  keep  it.  The  latter, 
however,  is  a  gloomy,  irregular,  barn- 
and-stable-like  building,  with  few  good 
rooms  and  fewer  fireplaces,  and  quite 
too  well  ventUated  for  comfortable  win- 
ter-quarters. 

First-class  boarding  houses  are  kept 
by  Mrs.  Reid  and  Mrs.  Fazio.  There 
are  also  others  of  less  note. 

The  hotel  prices  are  |1  60  and  $2  a 
day ;  $9  and  $10  pfir  week ;  fire  extra. 
The  boarding-house  charges  are  less, 
being  from  |6  upward. 

Visitors,  unless  more  than  ordinarily 
difficult  aud  exacting,  wUt  ^.^.d  the 
tables  satisfacUrily  furnisLed;  admira- 
bly so,  considering  the  isolation  of  the 
place,  and  its  remoteness  from  markets 
and  commercial  cities.  The  winter 
fare  consists  of  groceries  and  butter 
from  the  north;  delicious  fish  and 
oysters,  beef,  game,  poultry,  venison, 
duck,  wild  turkey,  and  occasionally 
green  turtle ;  green  peas  and  salads  are 
rarely  lacking,   oven   in  mid-winter; 


game  birds  are  abundant,  such  as 
qucil,  snipe,  etc. 

Bt.  BSaxy  may  be  included  in  this 
region,  though  it  1I<.3  in  the  State  of 
Georgia,  yet  still  near  the  north-east 
line  of  florida.  It  is  upon  the  St. 
Mary's  River,  nine  miles  from  the  sea. 
The  village  hi  a  pleasant  one,  and  the 
healthfulness  of  its  climate  mak^s  it 
deservedly  a  place  of  invalid  resort. 

TallahaMei,  the  capital  of  Florida, 
is  a  pleasant  city,  of  some  1,400  inhabi- 
tants, in  the  centre  of  the  northern  and 
most  populous  part  of  the  State,  near 
the  head  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  It  is 
connected  by  railroad,  26  miles,  with 
St.  Mark's,  near  the  Gulfl  It  is  regu- 
larly built  upon  a  somewhat  elevated 
site.  Some  of  its  public  edifices  are 
highly  respectable,  but  do  not  call  for 
any  especial  remark. 

Chief  among  the  attractions  of  Tal- 
lahassee are  the  many  beautiful  springs 
found  in  the  vicinity.  Ten  miles  from 
the  city  is  a  famous  fountain,  called 
Wachvlla.  It  is  an  immense  limestone 
basin,  as  yet  unfathomcd  in  the  centre, 
with  waters  as  transparent  as  crystaL 


"Waohnlla,  bennteoos  Spring!  thy  crystal 
waters 
Bcflect  the  loTelinessof  Bunthern  skies : 
And  oft  inethinkb  the    dark-haired    Indian 
daughters 
Bend  oVr  thy  silver  depths  with  wondering 
eves; 
From  forest  glade  the  swarthy  chief  emerg- 
ing, 
Delighted  paused,  thy  matchless  charms  to 
view; 
Then  to  thy  flower-gemmed  border  slowly 
verging, 
I  see  him  o'er  thy  placid  bosom  urging 


I  light  canoe ! 


With  the  bright  orimton  of  the  Maple  twin- 

The    nragrant  Bay  its    peerless   chaplet 
weaves ; 
And  where  Magnolias  In  their  pride  are  shin- 
ing, 
The  broad  Palmetto  spreads  its  &n-Iike 
leaves: 
Far  doifn  the  forest  aisles  where  sunbeams 
quiver, 
The  fairest  flowers  their  rainbow  hues  com- 
bine; 
And  pendant  o'er  the  swiftly  flowing  river, 
The  shadows  of  the  graceful  Willow  shiver. 
In  glad  sunshine  I 


11 


FLORIDA. 

St  Mark's— Appalrwhleola—Pensaeolft—Tompar-Key  West. 


260 


Brlght-plamaged  birda  their  gorgeou  hues 
enwreatning, 
Their  amorous  tunes  to  listening  flowers 
repeat; 
Which,  in  reply,  their    sweetest    Ineense 
breatliing, 
Pour  on  the  silent  a(r their  perAime  sweet: 
From  tree  to  tree  the  golden  Jasmine  creep- 
ing, 
Hangs  its  light  bells  on   every  slender 
spsay ; 
And  in  each  flragrant  chalice  slyly  peeping, 
The  HumnUng- Bird  its  odorous  store  is 
reaping, 

Tholiyelongdayt" 

These  are  passages  from  a  graphic 
sketch  of  the  features  of  "  WachuUa, 
by  Mrs.  G.  W.  Du  Bose,  a  Southern 
poetess. 

St.  BSark's  is  on  St.  Mark's  River, 
near  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  26  miles 
from  Tallahassee  by  railroad. 

From  Pensacola  to  Tallahassee,  Flo. 
— ^To  La  Grange  (on  Ghoctawhatchie 
Bay),  by  steamboat,  66  miles;  by 
stage  to  Holmes  Valley,  26 ;  Oakey 
Hil^  42 ;  Marianna,  66 ;  Chattahoochee, 
90;  Qumcy,  108;  Salubrity,  117;  Tal- 
lahassee, 180. 

From  Jacksonville  to  TallaJuissee, 
Mo.— To  the  White  Sulphur  Spring,  82 
miles.  This  curious  spring  rises  in  a 
basin  ten  feet  deep  and  thirty  in  diam- 
eter ;  it  discharges  a  quantity  of  wa- 
ter, and  after  running  a  course  of  about 
100  feet,  enters  the  Suwanee  River. 
The  waters  have  been  found  very  bene- 
ficial in  cases  of  consumption,  rheuma- 
tism, and  a  variety  of  other  complaints. 
Visitors  will  find  ample  accommodation 
here.  From  the  mineral  spring  to 
Madison,  36  miles;  Lipona,  78;  Talla- 
hassee, 98 — or  180  miles  from  Jackson- 
ville. 

Ai^>alachiooIa  is  at  the  entrance  of 
the  river  of  the  same  name  into  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  through  the  Appala- 
chicola  Bay.  It  is  easily  accessible  by 
the  river  and  the  Gulf,  and  is  a  place 
of  large  cotton  shipments.  It  is-  136 
miles  south-west  of  Tallahassee. 

Fenaaoola  is  upon  the  Pensacola 
Bay,  in  the  extreme  south-west  corner 


of  the  State,  10  miles  fromf  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico  and  64  east  of  Mobile.  The 
harbor  here  is  one  of  the  safest  on  the 
Florida  coast,  which  is  not  remarkable 
for  safe  harbors.  It  is  well  sheltered 
by  St.  Rosa  Island,  and  is  defended  by 
Forts  Pickens,  McGrea,  and  Barrancas. 
The  population  of  Pensacola  is  about 
2,000. 

Route  from  Pensacola  to  Mobile,  Ala. 
-—To  Blakely,  60  ;  Mobile,  64  miles. 

Tanqia,  is  on  Tampa,  formerly  Espir- 
itu  Santo  Bay,  which  opens  on  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  near  the  centre  of  the 
western  coast  of  Florida. 

Key  Wait  Oity  is  upon  the  island 
of  Key  West,  off  the  southern  extrem- 
ity of  the  peninsula,  occupying  the 
important  post  of  key  to  the  Gulf  pas- 
sage. It  was  first  settled  in  1822,  and 
is  now  the  most  populous  city  of  Flor- 
ida, having  a  population  of  about 
3,000.  It  is  a  ndlitary  station  of  the 
United  States.  Some  80,000  bushels  of 
salt  are  annually  made  at  Key  West  by 
solar  evaporation.  Great  quantities  of 
sponges,  too,  are  found  and  exported ; 
but  the  chief  business  of  the  island  ac- 
crues from  the  salvages  upon  the  wrecks 
cast  upon  the  coast.  Forty  or  fifty  vessels 
are  every  year  lost  in  the  vicinity,  by 
which  the  island  profita  to  the  amount 
of  $200,000.  The  Marine  Hospital  here, 
100  feet  long,  is  a  noteworthy  building. 
Fort  Taylor,  a  strong  and  costly  post, 
defends  the  harbor.  The  Charleston 
and  Havana  steamers  touch  at  Key 
West  once  a  week.  There  is  no  other 
reliable  mode  of  access. 

Two  railroads  across  the  peninsula  of 
Florida,  connecting  the  Gulf  side  with 
the  Atlantic  are  in  course  of  construc- 
tion under  charters  fron;  the  State, 
granting  liberal  donations  of  land.  The 
Eastern  terminus  of  the  Florida,  At- 
lantic, and  Gulf  Railroad  will  be  at 
Jacksonville;  the  other  route  will  ex- 
tend from  Fernaudina  to  Cedar  Keys. 
A  similar  grant  for  a  railway  from  St. 
Augustine  to  the  St.  Johns  River,  has 
recently  been  obtained. 


270 


GEOBOIA. 


Oenenl  Bemark*— The  Bavaiuuh  Bint. 


GEOEGIA. 

This  great  State  possesses  unrivalled  sources  of  prosperity  and  wealth,  and 
though  they  are  as  yet  only  in  the  dawn  of  development,  the  traveller  will  not 
hesitate  to  predict  for  her  a  glorious  future,  when  he  notes  the  spirit  of  activity, 
enterprise,  and  progress,  which  so  markedly  distinguishes  her  from  other  por- 
tions of  the  South.  While  Nature  is  here  every  where  most  prodigal  in  means, 
man  is  earnest  in  improving  them.  With  the  wiil  and  energy  of  northern  enter- 
prise, utilizing  the  advantages  of  a  southern  soil,  who  can  cipher  put  the  grand 
result  ? 

Georgia  was  settled  the  latest  of  the  "  Original"  Thirteen  States  of  the  Union. 
She  derived  her  name  with  her  charter  from  George  II.,  June  0th,  1782.  Her 
first  colony  was  planted  by  General  Oglethorpe,  on  the  spot  where  the  city  of 
Savannah  now  stands,  in  1^18 ;  sixty-three  years  after  the  settlement  of  South 
Carolina,  and  a  century  behind  most  of  the  original  colonies.  Three  yearS'  after 
the  arrival  of  Oglethorpe,  Ebenezer  was  planted  by  the  Germans,  26  miles  up 
the  Savannah  River.  Darien,  on  the  sea,  was  commenced  about  the  same  time 
by  a  party  of  Scotch  Highlanders.  Among  the  early  troubles  of  the  colony, 
was  a  war  with  the  Spianiards  in  Florida,  each  party  in  turn  invading  the  territory 
of  the  other. 

The  people  of  Georgia  took  a  vigorous  part  in  the  Revolution ;  and  the  State 
was  in  possession  of  the  British  a~  portion  of  that  time.  The  city  .of  Savannah 
was  taken  by  them,  December  29th,  1*778.  A  bold  attempt  was  made  by  the 
combined  American  and  French  forces  to  recapture  it,  but  failed,  with  the  loss 
to  the  allies  of  1,100  men.  The  Great  Cherokee  Country,  in  the  upper  part  of 
the  State,  came  into  the  full  possession  of  the  whites  in  1838,  when  the  Indians 
were  removed  to  new  homes  beyond  the  Mississippi. 

The  sea-coast  of  Georgia,  extending  about  80  miles,  is  very  similar  in  charac- 
ter to  that  of  the  Carolinas,  being  Uned  with  fertile  islands  cut  off  from  the 
main  land  by  narrow  lagoons  or  sounds.  The  famous  sea-island  cotton  is  grown 
here ;  and  wild  fowl  are  abundant  in  all  varielics.  Upon  the  main,  rice  planta- 
tions flourish,  with  all  the  Reiui-tropical  vegetation  and  fr^it  which  we  have  seen 
in  the  ocean  districts  of  South  Carolina. 

Passing  northward  to  the  central  regions  of  the  State,  the  cotton  fields  greet 
our  eyes  at  every  step,  until  the  surface  of  the  country  becomes  more  and  more 
broken  and  hilly,  and,  at  last,  verges  upon  the  great  hiU-region  traversed  by  the 
Appalachian  or  Alleghany  Mountains.  These  great  ranges  occupy  all  the 
northern  counties,  and  present  to  the  charmed  eye  of  the  tovrist,  scenes  of 
beauty  and  sublimity  not  surpassed  in  any  section  of  the  Union. 

Rivers. — ^There  are  many  fine  rivers .  in  Georgia ;  but,  as  with  the  water- 
courses of  the  South  generally,  they  are  often  muddy,  and  their  only  beau^  is 
in  the  rank  vegetation  of  their  shores,  with  here  and  there  a  bold  sandy  bluff. 


The  Savannah  divides  the  States  of 
Georgia  and  South  Carolina,  through 
half  their  length.  Its  course,  exclusive 
of  its  branches,  is  about  460  miles.  The 
cities  of  Augusta  and  Savannah  are 
upon  its  banks,  and  it  enters  the  At- 
lantic 18  miles  below  the  latter  place. 
From  June  to  November  it  is  navigabk 
^or  large  vessels  as  far  as  Savannah, 


and  for  steamboats  up  to  Augusta,  280 
miles.  The  river  vot.  ge  between  these 
points  is  a  very  pleasant,  one,  presenting 
to  the  eye  of  the  stranger  many  pictu- 
resque novelties,  in  the  cotton  fields 
which  he  along  the  banks,  through  the 
upper  part  ot  the  passage ;  and  in  the 
rich  rice  plantations  below.  Approach- 
ing Savannah,  the  tourist  will  be  par- 


h 


OSOBGIA. 


271 


The  S«TUiMh— The  Cotton  Oin— Alligators. 


ds  greet 

nd  more 

by  the 

all  the 

enes  of 


Savannah  Blver. 


ticularly  delighted  with  the  mystic  glens 
of  the  wild  swamp  reaches,  and  with 
the  luxuriant  groves  of  live-oak  which 
shadow  the  ancient-looking  manors  of 
the  planters.  A  few  miles  above  the 
city  of  Savannah,  he  may  visit  the  spot 
where  Whitney  invented  and  first  used 
his  wonderful  cotton-gin.  Whitney 
was  a  Yankee  schoolmaster  of  an  in- 
quiring turn  of  mind,  and  it  was  during 
his  intervals  of  rest  from  pedagogical 
rule,  that  he  grew  impatient  of  the 
slow  process  of  picking  the  cotton- 
seed from  the  fibres  with  the  fingers, 
and  set  himself  to  work  so  efPectually 
to  remedy  the  difficulty.  A  noble 
monument  shoiold  mark  the  place,  and 
comraeBorate  the  acyevement;  but 
alas !  w*  live  in  an  irrererent  or  a  for- 
getful age  and  country. 

The  alligator  is  often  seen  sunning 
himself  on  the  shores  of  the  lower 
waters  of  the  Savannah,  being  abun- 
dant in  the  cont^uous  swamps.  They 
are  dangerous  reptiles  to  deal  with,  es- 
pecially when  im  ill  humor.  We  once 
saw  a  large  specimen  of  this  genus, 
who  had  swallowed,  as  his  "post-mor- 


tem*' discovered,  a  bottle  of  brandy  and 
a  certificate  of  membership  in  a  Metho* 
dist  church.  The  coroner's  inquiry 
asked  after  the  owners  of  the  articles, 
but  inference,  only,  answered  the  ques- 
tion. 

"  When  our  canoe,"  says  Sir  Charles 
Lyell,  in  his  record  of  travels  in  this 
region,  "  had  proceeded  into  brackish 
water,  where  the  river  banks  consisted 
of  marsh  land,  covered  with  a  tall, 
reed-like  grass,  we  came  close  to  an 
alligator,  about  nine  feet  long,  basking 
in  the  sun.  Had  the  day  been  warmer, 
he  would  not  have  allowed  us  to  ap- 
proach so  near  to  him ;  for  these  rep- 
tiles are  much  shyer  than  formerly, 
since  they  have  learned  to  dread  the 
avenging  rifle  of  the  planter,  whose 
stray  hogs  and  sporting  dogs  they 
often  devour.  About  ten  years  ago, 
Mr.  Cooper  tells  us  he  saw  two  hun- 
dred of  them  together  in  St.  Mary's 
River,  extremely  fearless.  The  oldest 
and  largest  individuals  on  the  Altamaha 
have  been  killed,  and  they  are  now 
rarely  twelve  feet  long,  and  never 
exceed  sixteen  and  a  half  feet.    As 


273 


OBOBOIA. 


The  Ooonee,  Ockmnlgee,  Flint  Md  Cbattahooohee  Blren. 


11-7 


almost  all  of  them  have  been  in  their 
winter  retreats  ever  rince  the  frost  of 
last  month,  I  was  glad  that  we  had  sur- 
prised one  in  his  native  haunts,  and 
seen  him  plunge  into  the  water  by  the 
ride  of  our  boat.  When  I  first  read 
Bartram's  account  of  alligators  more 
than  twenty  feet  long,  and  now  they  at- 
tacked his  boat  and  bellowed  liice  bulls, 
and  made  a  sound  lilie  distant  thunder, 
I  suspected  him  of  exaggeration ;  but 
all  my  inquiries  here  and  in  Louisiana 
convinced  me  that  he  may  be  depended 
upon.  His  account  of  the  nests  which 
they  build  in  the  marshes  is  perfectly 
correct.  They  resemble  haycoclcs, 
about  four  feet  high,  and  five  feet  in 
diameter  at  their  bases,  being  construct- 
ed with  mud,  grass,  and  herbage,  first 
they  deposit  one  lajier  of  eggs  on  a 
floor  of  mortar,  and  having  covered 
this  with  a  second  stratum  of  mud  and 
herbage  eight  inches  thick,  lay  another 
set  of  eggs  upon  that,  and  so  on  to  the 
top,  there  being  commonly  from  one 
hundred  to  two  hundred  eggs  in  a  nest. 
With  their  tails  they  then  beat  down 
round  the  nest  the  dense  grass  and  reeds, 
five  feet  high,  to  prevent  the  approach  of 
unseen  enemies.  The  female  watches 
her  eggs  until  they  are  all  hatched  by 
the  heat  of  the  sun,  and  then  takes  her 
brood  under  her  care,  defending  them, 
and  providing  for  their  subsistence. 
Dr.  Luzenberger,  of  New  Orleans,  told 
me  that  he  once  packed  up  one  of  these 
nests,  with  the  eggs,  in  a  box  for  the 
Museum  of  St.  Petersburgh,  but  was 
recommended,  before  he  closed  it,  to 
see  that  there  was  no  danger  of  any  of 
the  eggs  being  hatched  on  the  voyage. 
On  opening  one,  a  young  alligator  walk- 
ed out,  and  was  soon  after  followed  by 
all  the  rest,  about  one  hundred,  which 
he  fed  in  his  house,  where  they  went  up 
and  down  the  stairs,  whining  and  bark- 
ing like  young  puppies.  They  ate  vo- 
raciously, yet  their  growth  was  so  slow, 
as  to  confirm  him  in  the  common 
opinion,  that  individuals  which  have  at- 
tained the  largest  size  are  of  very  great 
age  ;  though  whether  they  live  for  three 
centuries,  as  some  pretend,  must  be  de- 
.  cided  by  future  observations. 


The  Ooonee  rises  in  the  gold  lands  of 
the  mountain  districts  of  Qcor^a,  and 
traverses  the  State  until  it  meets  the 
Ogeechee,  and  with  that  river  reaches 
the  £ea  under  the  name  of  the  Altama- 
ha.  MilledgeviUe,  the  capital  of  Georgia, 
is  upon  the  Oconee,  300  miles  from  the 
ocean ;  and  Athens,  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  places  in  the  State,  and  the 
seat  of  the  University  of  Georgia,  is  also 
passed  by  its  waters.  Small  steamboats 
may  ascend  the  Oconee  as  far  as  Mil- 
ledgeviUe; but  now,  with  the  more 
speedy  travel  by  railway,  there  is  little 
need  of  them. 

The  Ookmulgee  is  navigable  for 
small  steamboats  to  Macon. 

'The  Flint  River,  in  the  western 
part  of  the  State,  passes  by  Lanier, 
Oglethorpe,  and  Albany,  and  uniting 
with  the  Chattahoochee,  at  the  south- 
west  extremity  of  the  State,  forms  the 
Appalachicola.  The  length  of  the  Flint 
River  is  about  800  miles.  Its  navigable 
waters  extend  260  miles,  from  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico  to  Albany. 

The  Ohattahoodiee  is  one  of  the 
largest  and  most  interesting  rivers  of 
Georgia.  It  pursues  a  devious  way 
through  the  gold  region  westward  from 
the  mountains  in  the  north-eastern  part 
of  the  State,  and  makes  the  lower  half 
of  the  dividing  line  between  Georgia 
and  Alabama.  At  the  point  where  it 
enters  Florida,  it  is  joined  by  the  Flint 
River,  and  the  united  waters  are  thence- 
forward called  the  Appalachicola.  The 
Chattahoochee  is  navigable  for  large 
steamboats  as  far  up  as  Columbus,  860 
miles  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The 
principal  towns  on  this  river  besides 
Columbus,  are  Eufaula,  West  Point,  and 
Fort  Gaines. 

Just  above  Columbus  there  are  some 
picturesque  rapids  in  the  Chattahoochee, 
overlooked  by  a  fine  rocky  bluflf,  famous 
in  story  as  the  "  Lover's  Leap."  The 
scene  would  be  a  gem  in  regions  the 
most  renowned  for  natural  beauty.  On 
the  left,  the  river  pursues  its  down- 
ward course  to  the  city,  in  a  straight 
line.  Its  flow  is  rapid  and  wild,  broken 
by  rocks,  over  which  the  water  frets 
and  foams  in  angry  surges.    The  bed 


OBOBOIA. 


278 


Th«  Legend  of  the  Lover's  Leap. 


of  the  stream  is  that  of  a  deep  raTine, 
its  widls  lofty  and  irregular  oliffs,  cover- 
ed  to  their  verge  with  majestic  forest 

growth.  From  this  ppint  the  city  of 
olumbus  is  but  partially  visible.  The 
village  of  Oirard  and  the  surrounding 
hiUs  on  the  Alabama  side,  form  a  dis- 
tinct and  beautiful  back  ground  to  the 
picture.  The  fine  bridge  which  spans 
the  river  at  Columbus,  and  the  steam- 
boats which  boar  the  exchanges  of 
wealth  over  the  waters,  are  dimly  seen 
through  the  mist  which  clothes  the 
Fails  of  Coweta.     This  is  the 

Legend  of  the  Zioven*  Leap.  In 
the  early  part  of  the  present  century, 
this  region  was  inhabited  by  two  pow- 
erful tribes  of  Indians.  Rivals  were 
they,  and  with  numbers  equal  and 
alike  proud  names,  well  they  vied 
with  each  other.  There  was  no  tribe 
in  all  the  powerful  nation  of  the  Creeks, 
who  boasted  of  their  prowess  before  a 
Cusseta  or  a  Coweta.  Tet  they  were 
not  friends,  for  who  of  those  proud  red 
men  would  bend  before  the  acknow- 
ledged superiority  of  the  other?  It 
may  have  been  a  small  matter  from 
which  their  jealousy  sprung,  but  the 
tiny  thing  had  been  cherished  till  a 
serpent-like  hatred  hissed  at  the  sound 
of  the  other's  name. 

The  proud  chief  of  the  Cussetas  was 
now  become  an  old  man,  and  much  was 
he  venerated  by  all  who  rallied  at  his 
battle  cry.  The  boldest  heart  in  all  his 
tribe  quailed  before  his  angry  eye,  and 
the  proudest  did  him  reverence.  The 
old  man  had  outlived  his  own  sons. 
One  by  one  had  the  Great  Spirit  called 
them  from  their  hunting-grounds,  and 
in  the  flush  of  their  manhood  they  had 
gone  to  the  spirit-land.  Yet  he  was 
not  alone.  The  youngest  of  his  chil- 
dren, the  dark-eyed  Mohina,  was  still 
sheltered  in  his  bosom,  and  all  his  love 
for  the  beautiful  in  life,  was  bestowed 
upon  her.  Ah,  and  rightly  too,  for  the 
young  maiden  rivalled  in  grace  the 
bounding  fawn,  and  the  young  warriors 
said  of  her,  that  the  smile  of  the  Great 
Spirit  was  not  so  beautiful.  While  yet 
a  child,  she  was  betrothed  to  the  Young 
Eagle  of  the  Cowetas,  the  proud  scion 
12* 


of  their  warrior  chief.  Bdt  Stem  hatred 
had  stifled  kindly  feelings  hi  the  hearts 
of  all^ave  these  two  young  creatures, 
and  the  pledged  word  was  broken  when 
the  smoke  of  the  calumet  was  extin- 
guished. Mohina  no  longer  dared  to 
meet  the  young  chief  openly,  and  death 
faced  them  when  they  sat  in  a  lone, 
wild  trysting  pUoe,  'neath  the  starry 
blazonry  of  midnight's  dark  rote.  SUll 
they  were  undaunted,  for  pure  love 
dwelt  in  their  hearts,  and  base  fear 
crouched  low  before  it,  and  went  afar 
from  them  to  hide  in  grosser  souls. 
Think  not  the  boy-god  changes  his  ar- 
rows when  he  seeks  the  heart  of  the 
red  man.  Nay,  rather  with  truer  aim 
and  finer  point  does  the  winged  thing 
speed  from  his  bow,  and  deeplv  the 
subtle  poison  sinks  in  the  young  neart, 
while  the  dark  cheek  glows  with  love's 
proper  hue.  The  deer  bounded  g^idly 
by  when  the  lovers  met,  and  felt  he 
was  free,  while  the  bright-eyed'  maiden 
leaned  upon  the  bosom  of  the  Young 
Eagle.  Their  young  hearts  hoped  m 
the  Future,  though  all  in  vain,  for  Time 
served  but  to  render  more  fierce  that 
hostile  rive^ry,  more  rank  that  deadly 
hatred,  which'  existed  between  the 
tribes.  Skirmishes  were  frequent  amid 
their  hunters,  and  open  hostilities 
seemed  inevitable. 

And  now  it  was  told  by  some  who 
had  peered  through  the  tangled  under- 
wood and  matted  foliage  of  those  dim 
woods,  that  the  Coweta  had  pressed  the 
maiden  to  his  heart  in  those  lone  places, 
and  that  strange  words  and  passionate, 
were  even  now  breathed  by  him  in  her 
ear.  Then  the  hunters  of  the  Cussetas 
sprang  from  their  couches,  and  made 
earnest  haste  to  the  dark  glen.  With 
savage  yell  and  impetuous  rush  they 
bounded  before  the  lovers.  They  fled, 
and  love  and  terror  added  wings  to 
their  flight.  For  a  while  they  distanced 
their  pursuers.  But  the  strength  of 
Mohina  failed  her  in  a  perilous  moment, 
and  had  not  the  Young  Eagle  snatched 
her  to  his  fast  beating  neart,  the  raging 
enemy  had  made  sure  their  fate.  He 
rushed  onward  up  the  narrow  defile 
I  before  him.    It  led  he  forgot  whither. 


274 


OaOBOXA. 

BaOwAjr  BoatM. 


In  a  few  moment!  be  stood  on  th« 
Terge  of  thif  fearAil  height.  Wildly 
the  maiden  olvug  to  him,  and  eren 
then,  in  that  atrange  moment  of  life, 
Ilia  heart  throbt>ed  proudly  beneath  hia 
burden.  The  bold  fttture  alone  was 
before  him ;  there  was  no  return.  Al- 
ready the  breath  of  one  of  the  pur- 
suers,  a  hated  rival,  came  quick  upon 
his  cheek,  and  the  brisht  gleaming 
tomahawk  shone  before  mm.  One  mo- 
ment he  gaxed  on  him,  and  triumph 
flashed  in  the  eye  of  the  young  chief, 
and  then  without  a  shudder  he  sprang 
into  the  seething  waters  below.  Still 
the  young  maiden  dung  to  him,  nor  yet 
did  the  death-struggle  part  them.  The 
mad  waves  da  jhed  feamilly  over  them, 
and  their  loud  widl  was  a  fitting  requiem 
to  their  departing  sjdrits.  The  horror- 
stricken  warriors  gaiett  wildly  Into  the 
foaming  torrent,  then  dashed  with  reck- 
less liute  down  the  declivity  to  bear 
the  sad  tidings  to  the  old  chief.  He 
heard  their  tale  in  silence.  But  sorrow 
was  on  his  spirit,  and  it  was  broken. 
Henceforth  his  seat  was  unfilled  by  the 
council  fire,  and  its  red  light  gleamed 
fitfully  upon  his  grave. 

Railway  Routaa.  The  Chorgio 
Raihaay  extends,  in  a  westerly  direc- 
tion, 171  miles  from  Augusta  to  At- 
lanta, passing  through  Beudr,  Berselia, 
Dearing,  Thomson,  Camak,  Gumming, 
Grawfordville,  Union  FoLit,  Oreens- 
boro,*  Oconee,  Buokhead,  Madison, 
Rutledise,  Social  Olrtie,  Covington, 
Conyers,  Lithonia,  Stona  If ountain,  and 
B^tatur.  A  branch  line,  10  tniles  long, 
extends  firom  Ounak  to  Warrenton,  the 
capital  of  Warren  Goonty ;  another  of. 
18  miles  from  Gumming  to  Wadiington, 
the  capital  of  WUkes  County ;  another 
from  Union  Pofant  to  Athena^  the  Oapi- 
tal  of  Clarke  Govnty.  1%e  iroad  (the 
Georgia)  connaots  at  Augusta  idUi  the 
South  Carolina  road  to  Charleston. 
The  Augusta  and  Waynesboro*  extends 
88  miles  to  MlUen,  a  station  on  the 
Central  road,  fcom  Savannah  to'  Maeon. 
Stations:  Waynesboro,*  Thomias,  and 
Lumpkin. 

The  Western  and  Atlantic  Road  ex- 
tends from  the  Geor|^  Hallway  at  At- 


lanta, 188  miles,  northward  to  Chatta- 
nooga, Tennessee.  /9<<i<ioiM— Atianta 
to  Viidng's, Smiles;  Marietta,  20;  Ae- 
worth,  85;  Allatoona,  40 ;  CartersviUe, 
47 ;  Cass,  62 ;  Kingston,  69 ;  Adairs- 
vlUe,  69;  Calhoun,  78;  Resaca,  84; 
Tllton,  91 ;  Dalton,  100 ;  Tunnel  Hill, 
107;  lUnggold,  115;  Johnson,  120; 
Chlckamanga,  128;  Bovce,  188;  Chat- 
tanooga, 188  miles.  This  road  is  con- 
tinued (from  Dalton)  by  the  East  Ten- 
nessee and  Georgia,  to  Knoxville,  Ten- 

The  Borne  Bailwav  deflects  ftt>m  the 
Western  and  Atlantic  at  Kingston,  and 
extends  20  miles  to  Rome. 

The  Atlanta  and  Lagrange  Road  ex- 
tends from  the  Georgia  road  at  Atlanta, 
87  miles,  to  West  Point,  from  whence 
It  is  continued  by  other  routes  to  Mont- 
gomery, Alabama.  iSlf4«ft«iw— Atlanta 
to  East  Point,  6  mfles ;  Falrbum,  18 ; 
Palmetto,  25 ;  Powell's,  Newnan,  40 ; 
Grantville,  62;  Hogansville,  69;  La- 
ORAHoi,  72;  Long  Cane,  78;  West 
Point,  87  miles. 

The  Central  Railway  extends  191 
miles  from  Savannah  to  Macon.  8kh 
Hon*— Savannah  to  Eden,  20  miles ; 
Guvton,  80 ;  Egypt,  40;  Armenia,  46 ; 
Hucyondale,  50;  Ogeechee,  62;  Sear- 
boro,'7l;  Mlllen,  79  (branch  road  68 
miles  to  Augusta);  CushingvlUe,  88, 
BIrdsvllle,  90 ;  Midville,  94 ;  Holcomb, 
108;  Spelr's  Turnout,  112;  Davis- 
boro,*  128;  Tenidlle,  186;  Oconee, 
146;  Emmett,  168;  Kingston,  160; 
Gordon  171  (branch  to  Milledgeville 
andEatonton);  Griswoldvllle,  188;  Ma- 
oon,  191  miles. 

MilledgeviUe  and  Eatonton  Branch 
of  Gentnu  Road.  5^a<tofi«— -Gordon  to 
Woobey,  9  miles;  MiUedgeviUa,  18; 
Dennis,  29;  Eatonton,  88  miles. 

Macon  and  Western  extends  101 
miles  from  Macon  to  Atlanta,  tenninus 
of  Georgia  railway.  /S^iona^Macon, 
Junction,  Howard's,  6  miles;  Craw- 
ford's, 18;  Smarr's,  19;  Forsyth,  24; 
Collier's,  80 ;  Goggin's,  Bamesville,  40 ; 
MOner's,  47;  Thornton's,  GrifTen,  68; 
Fayette,  66 ;  Lovejoy's,  Jonesboro',  79 ; 
Bough  and  Ready,  90 ;  East  Pond,  96 ; 
Atlanta,  101  miles. 


OSOBOU. 


276 


La- 
Weat 

I   191 
Stth 


)coDee, 
160; 
iCeriUe 


' 


, 


lUIlwaj*— TIM  Oltf  or  SftTMinah. 


The  Mnioogee  Railway  eztenda  from 
Macon,  tennlnuii  of  Central  road,  09 
mllea,  to  Ck>lumbus,  with  Branch  to 
Americus.  Stationi—UtMOu  to  Eohe- 
oonnee,  17  milei ;  Mule  Greek,  21 ;  Fort 
YaUej,  28( Americus  Branch) ;  Everett'e, 
86 ;  BeynoldB*,  41 ;  Butler,  60 ;  Oolnm* 
btti,  99  miles. 

The  South«Westem  (or  Americus 
Branch  of  Musette)  station  as  above, 
from  Macon  to  Fort  Ydley,  28  miles ; 
thence  to  Marshallville,  8;  Winches- 
ter, 11 ;  Oglethorpe,  21 ;  Anderson, 
82 ;  Americus,  48  miles. 

Railways  in  progress. — ^From  Savan- 
nah south-west  to  Deckertown.  Rail- 
ways chartered  or  proposed. — The  Al- 
bany and  Savannah, from  Savannah  west- 
ward via  Deckertown  to  Albany,  and 
roads  thence  over  to  Eufaula,  and  an- 
other to  Fort  Oaines  on  the  Chattahoo- 
chee river.  The  Florida  and  Savannah 
■ooth-west  via  Deckertown  to  the  ex- 
treme south-west  comer  of  the  State, 
eonnecUng  with  the  road  to  Tallahassee 
and  continuing  towards  Pensacola  and 
Mobile.  The  Brunswick  and  Florida, 
flrom  Darien  and  Brunswick  to  Pensa- 
cola, Florida. 

Swrannah,  the  largest  city  of  Geor- 
gia, with  a  population  of  about  14,000 


whites  and  10,000  blacks,  is  upon  the 
south  bank  of  the  Savannah  river,  18 
miles  from  the  sea.  Its  site  is  a  sandy 
terrace,  some  forty  feet  above  low  water 
mark.  It  is  reguUrly  built,  with  streets 
so  wide  and  so  unpaved — so  densely 
shaded  with  trees,  and  so  Ml  of  little 
parks,  that  but  for  the  extent  and  ele- 
gance of  its  public  edifices,  it  might 
seem  to  be  an  overgrown  village,  or  a 
score  of  vilUges  rolled  into  one.  There 
are  no  less  than  twenty-four  little  green 
squares  scattered  through  the  city,  and 
most  of  the  streets  are  lined  with  the 
fragrant  flowering  China  tree,  or  the 
Pride  of  India,  while  some  of  them,  as 
Broad  and  Bay  streets,  have  each  four 
grand  rows  of  trees,  there  being  a 
double  carriage-way,  with  broad  walks 
on  the  outsides,  and  a  promenade  be> 
tween. 

Among  the  public  buildings  of  note 
in  Savannah  are  the  new  Custom  House, 
the  City  Exchange,  Court  House  and 
Theatre,  the  State  Arsenal,  the  Armorr, 
the  Oglethorpe  and  the  St.  Andrew's 
Halls,  the  Lyceum,  the  Market  House, 
and  the  Chatham  Academy.  The  St. 
John's  (Episcopal)  Church,  and  the  In- 
dependent Presbyterian  Church,  are 
striking  edifices.    The  city  has,  besides, 


Bavaaiisb,  Georgia. 


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23  WUT  MAIN  STRUT 

WIUTIR,N.Y.  14SM 

(716)872-4503 


re:',-,'. 


^H 


OXOBOIA. 


TIm  Glt7  of  QnTMUudi. 


*  doien  dhm  ProtMtant  and  flonw 
CMioUo  eh^rohes,  and  %  Jewish  Syna- 
gOgoe.  The  State  Historical  Society 
hu  a  fine  library.  !fho  public  JA- 
hnrj  has  oTer  6,000  Tolomes.  There 
are  also  other  literary  assodations  and 
veading-rooms.  The  jwindpal  chaHta- 
ble  institutimia  of  the  city  are  the  Or* 
pbian  Asylum,  the  Hibernian  and  Sear 
num's  Friend  Sodeties,  the  Georda 
Infirmary,  the  Sarannah  Hos^tal,  the 
Union  and  the  Widow's  Societies,  and 
the  SaVannah  Free  Soho<^ 

In  JohnB<m  or  Monument  Square,  op> 
petdte  the  Puladd  House,  there  is  a  fine 
Doric  Obelisk  erected  to  the  memories 
of  Oreene  and  Pulaski,  the  comer  stone 
of  wUch  was  laid  by  La&yette  during 
his  Tudt  in  1826.  It  is  a  marble  shaft, 
58  feet  in  height.  The  base  of  the  pe- 
destal is  10  ft  4  in.  Dy  6  ft.  8  hi.,  and 
its  elevation  is  about  12  feet.  The 
needle  whidb  surmounts  the  pedestal  is 
87  fiset  high.  Another  and  very  ele- 
^t  structure  is  now  being  bimt  in 
Chippewa  Square,  to  the  memory  of 
Pulaski.  Tlus  general  fell  gallantly 
during  an  attack  upon  the  citv,  while 
it  was  occupied  by  the  British  m  1779. 

The  vicinage  of  Savannah,  though  flat, 
10  exceedingly  picturesque  along  the 
many  pleasant  drives,  and  by  the  banks 
of  the  river  and  its  tributary  brooks, 
leadfaig  every  where  through  noble  ave- 
nues of  the  Uve  oaks,  the  bay,  the  mag- 
ui^Bas,  the  orange,  and  a  hundred  other 
tieau^bl  evergreen^  ti^ees,  shrubs  and 
vijaes. 

The  ffemOery  of  Bwrnauenturttf  dose 
by,  is  a  wonderfu  place.  It  was  ori|^- 
iiauy  a  ]»ivate  estate,  laid  out  in  l|>road 
uvepnes,  radiatbg  firom  a  central  point 
ia  all  directions.  These  avenues  are 
r.ow  gratid  forest  aides,  lined  whh 
live  OMs  of  immense  die ;  thdr  dense 
leafitge  ndngling  overhead,  and  the 
huge  lateral  bra&idieetraifing  upon  the 
ground  with  thcdr  own  and  the  super- 
1  dded  weight  of  the  heavy  festoons  of 
the  pendant  Spanish  moss.  A  more 
beautiAil  or  more  solenm  home  for  the 
dcMkd  tiian  in  the  shades  of  these  green 
forell  «ldes,  cannot  be  well  imanned. 
Tht  endloM  cypress  groves  of  the 


"silent  dties"  by  theBorohonu,  ara 
not  more  impresnve  than  the  Intricate 
web  of  these  still  forest  walks.   .. 

Buenaventura  has  thus  been  dcetched 
by  star-light : 

**  A!<«9  a  oorridor  I  tread, 

Hi^  over-voheA  by  indent  trees, 
Wliere,  like  a  tepeetry  o*erbe«d, 

Tbfft  gnj  moae  llomi  npoa  the  1»eew : 
A  ■wwrjhnm  which  kiaeed  to-dajr 

TaUnlah**  ftUi  of  flashing  foun. 
And  qwrted  In  Toeeoa's  spnj— 

Bilnige  moBle  from  its  mMiitaiji  honie. 

•*  The  doads  are  floating  o^it  the  aly. 

And  east  at  times  a  IltAd  gloom,— 
As  o'er  onr  hesrto  dark  DMmories  1^, 

Cast  deeper  shades  on  Tatnall's  «Mnl(; 
While  (^tnmiering  onward  to  the  sea, 

With  soaree  a  np^g  wave  stpbigr, 
A  line  of  stiver  throng  tlw  ka. 

The  river  strctehes  nr  away;^  *  . 

Savannah  was  founded  by  Geneinil  OgIe> 
thorpe  in  1782.  It  was  occni^ed  in 
1778  by  the  British,  and  came  back  bto 
the  possesdon  of  the  Americans  in  1788. 
But  few  Revolutionary  remains  are  noW 
to  be  seen,  the  city  having  over|;r6wli 
most  of  them.  Batteries,  ramparts,  and 
redoubts  have  ^ven  place  to  the  mote 
pleasant  siehts  of  fragrant  gardens  and 
shady  parks.  Mounds  and  ditches, 
however,  may  be  traced  near  the  edge 
of  the  swamp,  south-east  of  the  town. 
Jatmer'a  Spring^  the  scene  of  a  brai^ 
and  £unous  exploit  of  the  war  time, 
may  yet  be  vidted.  It  lies  near  the 
Augusta  road,  two  miles  andahdf  from 
the  city  westward ;  the  spring  is  a 
fountain  of  purest  water,  hi  the  midst 
of  a  marshy  spot,  covered  witii  rank 
dirubbery,  at  the  edge  of  a  forest  of  dak 
and  i^e  trees.  The  interest  of  the 
dace  isin  ita  assodation  only.  Sargent 
Jasper,  aided  only  by  oAe  companion^ 
watched  by  this  sfwing  for  the  pa«^- 
sage  of  an  American  prisoner,  under  a 
British  guard  of  dght  men,  wham  he 
boldly  and  suocessfnuy  assdwd,  restor*. 
ing  tiie  captive  to  his  country  and  hid 
friends.     In  memory  of  thb  action, 

*  Bn<maveBtara  is  upon  tha  Bavaanld^ 
which  may  be  seen  gleaming  throu^  the 
forest  pasBsges.  "TktnaU*s  tomb,"  a  flunilj 
vanlt  of  the  former  possesson  of  the  spot,  was 
here,  alone,  befi»«  ita  adoption  as  a  pubUe 
eemetery. 


ftTMUII 


ftmUjr 
i>t,wu 
pubUo 


9 


oxoaaiA. 


m 


BsTumali— Aogoali.' 


Sngent  JMpev's  name  has  been  given 
td  one  of  the  paUie  perks  of  the  mj. 

J£otelii.-—Th9  mincipal  hotels,  and 
they  are  most  exeellent  ones,  are  the 
Pvltalki  ffotue  in  Johnson  or  Menu* 
mMit  Square,  the  C%  ffo^  in  Bay 
street,  and  the  Mantion  H<nm.  They 
are  all  eligibly  and  pleasantly  ritnated 
in  the  heart  of  the  city. 

Savannah  is  one  of  the  heUthlest  of 
the  southern  cities,  and  its  climate  is 
constantly  improving,  owing,  it  is  sdd, 
to  the  improved  manner  of  cultivat- 
ing  the  great  rioe  lands  in  the  neigh* 
bwhoodi  No  pleasanter  winter  home 
for  invalids  or  others  can  be  found :  for, 
to  the  balmy  climate  of  the  region,  and 
every  appliance  of  physical  conifort, 
there  are  superadded  extraordinary  so- 
cisl  attractions  in  the  oultivated  man- 
ners and  the  hospitable  hearts  of  the 
people. 

JSottfM  from  8Avtmnoh.---GwrmL,  is 
fikmpus  the  Union  over  for  hex  rauroad 
enterprise.  In  this  respect,  at  least, 
sb^  toftds  all  the  sonthem  States.  Her 
endless  rails  traverse  her  borders,  and 
especiatty  in  the  central  and  northern 

Krtions,  in  every  direction:  linking  all 
r  towns  and  districts  to  each  oueri 
apdwith  all  the  surrounding  States.  Be- 
tween  ten  and  eleven  thousand  miles  of 
railroad— either  finished,  or  being  built 
—now  centre  in  Savannah,  communi- 
cating thence,  directly  or  indirectly, 
with  Hacon  and  Golumbus,  and  with 
Montgomery  in  Alabama,  with  Augusta, 
Atlanta,  and  onward  to  Tennessee,  etc. 
RoadB,too^  are  in  process  of  construction, 
or  soon  will  be,  to  Charleston  and  to 
Ipensaoola,  and  other  points  in  Florida. 
The  Central  Railroad  extends  from 
Savannah,  192  miles,  to  Macon,  with 
branch  defleothur  from  Waynesborough 
to  Augusta,  and  another  to  Milledge- 
\Jle.  It  unites  also  witii  the  South- 
western road,  to  be  extended  west  to 
the  Chattahoochee  river ;  and  from  that 
route  by  the  Muscogee  road  to  Colum- 
bus. The  Maeon  and  Western  links  the 
Central  road  from  Savannah  with  the 
Qeori^a  nOroad  from  Augusta  at  At- 
lanta; the  Western  and  Atlanta  pro- 
longs it  tiienoe  to  Chattanooga  in  Ten* 


X4- 


nessee,  and  by  other  routes  to  JLaox- 
yille.  All  these  and  other  routes  we 
shall  duly  follow  as  we  continue  Wt 
journey  through  the  south  and  south- 
west. 

Florida  is  reached  at  JacksonsviUe^ 
St.  Augustine,  and  other  places,  by  regu- 
ter  tri-weekly  steamers  fr<Mn  &ivannui; 
8e»  chapter  on  Florida. 

Avgoste,  one  of  the  most  beautiM 
cities  in  Geor^  and  the  second  in 
population  and  importance,  is  on  the 
eastern  boundary  of  the  State,  upon 
the  banks  of  the  Savannah  ffiver,  and 
at  the  head  of  its  navigable  waters,  120 
miles  K.  X.  w.  fit>m  Savannah,  and- 186 
K.  w.  fi-om  Charleston,  with  both  of 
which  cities  it  has  long  been  connected 
by  rdlroad.  Augusta  has  now  a  popo- 
httion  of  over  12,000,  and  it  is  every 
year  greatiy  !ncrMring.  The  prindpM 
street  parallel  with  the  river,  is  a  noble 
avenue,  in  length  and  breadth.  This  is 
the  Broadway  of  the  city,  wherein  all 
the  shopj^ng  and  promenading  are 
done,  and  where  the  banks,  and  hotelf, 
and  markets  are  to  be  found.  Of  late 
years,  Augusta  has  spread  itself  greatiy 
over  the  level  lands  westward. 

A  pleasant  ride  of  two  or  three  miles 
from  the  heart  of  the  town,  brings  us 
to  a  lofty  range  of  sand-hills,  covered 
with  charming  summer  residences.  This 
high  oBOund  is  in  healthfiil  atmos- 
pmP^even  when  epidemics  prevail- 
as'  they  very  rarely  do,  however^-4nthe 
city  streets  below. 

There  are  delightftil  drives  along  the 
banks  of  the  Savannah,  partioulariy  be- 
low the  city ;  and  across  the  river  at 
Hamburg  there  are  some  beautiM 
wooded  and  grassy  terraces,  known  ag 
Shults's  HHI,  and  much  resorted  to  as,  a 
pio-nic  ground. 

Attgiuta  has  some  fine  public  bidld- 
ings  and  churches.  The  CSty  HalL 
built  at  a  cost  of  $100,000,  the  Medical 
College,  the  lUolunond -^Academy,  and 
the  Masonic  Hall,  are  every  way  credit- 
able to  the  architectural  taste  and  the 
liberality  of  the  people.  The  churches 
are  about  fifteen  m  number.  There  are 
also  here  an  arsenal  and  hospital,  and 
gasworks. 


>''? 


278 


OBOBOIA. 


Mtoon— Oolamba*— Atluta^Athens— Mai«dg8TlUe. 


The  rapid  derelopment  of  the  up- 
eountry  of  OeorgU,  within  a  few  yean, 
has  brought  down  to  Augusta,  by  her 
railways,  great  prosperity;  and  the 
water  power  which  has  been  secured  by 
means  of  a  canal,  which  brings  the 
upper  floods  of  the  Savannah  River  to 
the  city,  at  an  elevation  of  some  40 
feet,  is  enlarging  and  enriching  it  by 
extensive  and  profitable  manufactures. 
This  canal,  9  nules  in  length,  was  con- 
structed in  1846. 

Routetfrom  Augwta. — ^To  Chaiieston 
by  the  South  Carolina  Rdlway ;  to  Sa- 
vannah by  the  Central  road  and  the 
Waynesboro'  Branch,  and  by  steamers 
down  the  Savannah ;  to  Atlanta  by  the 
Geor^  Railway,  and  thence  into  Ala- 
bama "or  Tennessee  by  connecting 
lines ;  to  Macon,  Athens,  'Columbus,  and 
most  of  the  northern  towns,  by  de- 
flecting or  intersecting  lines  of  the  i 
Georgia  road.  Bee  Index  for  the  various 
routes,  and  the  places  and  scenes  to 
which  they  give  access. 

BSaoOB,  Uie  capital  of  Bibb  County, 
is  on  the  Ockmulgee  River,  191  miles 
west-north-west  of  Savannah,  by  the 
Central  Railway,  of  which  it  is  the 
northern  terminus.  From  Augusta,  by 
the  Augusta  and  Waynesboio*,  68  miles, 
to  MiUen,  on  the  Central  Railway ; 
thence,  112,  by  the  Central  road  from 
Savannah.  Total  distance  from  Augusta, 
166  miles;  frpm  Milledgeville  (the  capi- 
tal)v  by  rwUway,  88  miles ;  from  Atlanta, 
on  the  Georgia  Railway,  101  miles; 
from  Columbus,  by  the  Muscogee  and 
South  Western  Railways,;  99  miles. 
The  South  Western  extends  (at  present) 
to  Americus,  71  mile^  from  Macon, 
uniting  with  the  Muscogee  for  Colum- 
bus at  Fort  Valle?.  Macon  is  one  of 
the  chief  cities  in  Georgia  in  population 
(about  8,000).  It  is  a  prosperous  com- 
mercial place,  and  a  great  cotton  mart. 
The  Georgia  Female  Coll^;e  is  located 
here.  Rose  Hill  Cemetery,  on  the 
Ockmulgee,  is  a  pretty  rural  trit  of 
native  woodland.  Lamar's  Mound  is  ,a 
high  ridng  ground^  covered  with  fine 
private  reoidenoes,  continued  by  the 
pleasant  suburban  village  of  VineviUe. 

Oolumbus  is  on  the  Chattahoochee 


River,  the  western  boundary  of  the 
State ;  290  miles  from  Savaniuill,  by  the 
Central,  the  South  Western,  and  the 
Musco^^e  Railwavs,  via  Macon ;  from 
Augusta,  264  miles,  by  the  Augusta 
and  Wimiesboro*,  the  Central,  the 
South  Western,  and  the  Muscogee 
Railway,  or  810  miles  by  the  Georgia 
Ridlway  to  Atlanta,  thence  by  the  At- 
lanta and  Lagrange,  and  the  Mont- 
gomery and  West  Point,  via  Opelica, 
Alabama ;  from  Macon,  by  ndlway,  99 
miles;  from  Atlanta,  189;  from  Mont- 
gomery, Alabama,  by  railway,  92  mik«. 
Columbus  is  a  handsome  commercial 
city,  of  some  9,000  inhabitants.  hOffi 
quantities  of  cotton  are  shipped  hence 
for  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  via  the  Chatte- 
hoochee.  See  Chattahoochee  Kverfor 
picturesque  scenes  in  this  neighborhood. 
Girard,  Alabama,  is  oonneoted  with 
Columbus  by  a  fine  bridge. 

Atlanta  is  a  new  bunness  town,  with 
a  population  of  about  6,000.  It  is  the 
western  terminus  of  the  Georgia  Rail- 
way. Distance  by  that  route,  1*7 1  miles 
from  Augusta;  from  Macon f railway), 
101  miles,  and  from  Savannah  (railway), 
via  Macon,  292  miles.  The  railway 
routes  of  Tennessee  and  of  Tirginia 
meet  at  Atlanta;  also  railways  from 
Columbus  and  from  Montgomery,  Abi- 
bama.  Atlanta  is  upon  the  great  route 
from  Boston  and  New  Tork  to  New 
Orleans.  • 

Athens  is  a  beautiftil  upmountry 
town  on  the  Oconee  River.  From 
Augusta,  by  the  Georgia  Railway,  to 
Union  Point,  70  miles ;  thence  by  the 
Athens  branch,  48  miles.  Total,  118 
miles  from  Savannah,  by  railway,  via 
Augusta.  Athens  is  the  seat  of  Frank- 
lin College,  the  University  of  Georgia. 

milaogawills,  the  capital  of  Geor- 
gia, a  town  of  about  8,000  people,  is 
upon  the  Oconee  River,  in  the  midst  of 
a  fine  cotton-growing  region.  From 
Savannah,  by  the  Central  Railway,  to 
Gordon,  171  miles,  and  thence  by  the 
Milledgeville  and  Eatonton,  18  miles. 
Tottd,  189  miles.  From  Augusta,  by 
the  Augusta  and  Waynesboro',  to  Mil- 
ieu, on  the  Central  road,  63  miles; 
thence  by  the  Central  (as  from  Savan- 


OXOBOXA. 


S?9 


TIm  Maaataln  BagioB— lUl*  «f  Totmp^ 


Noountry 
From 
Iway,  to 
by  the 
tal,  118 
|way,  via 
if  Frank' 
lorgia. 
Oeor- 
ople,  is 
lidstof 
From 
way,  to 
by  the 
miles, 
ita,  by 
Mil- 
miles; 
Savan- 


nah)»  Total  lUstance  firom  Augusta,  168 
miles;  firom  Columbus^  186  miles,  and 
from  AtlMita,  189  miles. 

llie  Caidtol  at  MilledgeTille  is  a  Jai!ge 
■emi-Oothio  structure. 

The  Of^athocpe  UniTwralty  is  at 
Hidway,  a  pretty  Tillage  on  the  nilway, 
li  mUes  below  MiUedgeTille. 

TIm  Mountain  Bagion  of  Gkor- 
gisir— Throughout  all  Northern  Georgia, 
the  traveller  will  find  a  continuation  of 
the  charming  Blue  Bidge  landscape, 
which  we  have  already  teplored  in  the 
contiguous  regions  of  Upper  South  Car- 
olina, and  North  Carolina  Wut.  This 
l^eturesque  district  in  the  **  Pine  State  " 
extends  firom  Babun  County,  in  the 
north-eastern  comer  of  the  State,  to 
Dade,  fai  the  extreme  north- 
west, where  the  summit  of 
the  Lookout  Mountain  over- 
sees the  valley  of  the  Tennes- 
see. Here  are  the  fiimous 
gold  lands,  and  in  the  midst 
of  tibem  the  Dahlonega  branch 
of  the  Uiuted  States  Mfait. 

Ibe  most  firequented,  if  not 
the  fittest  scenes  in  this  neigh- 
borhood are  in  the  north-east, 
as  the  wonderfiil  FaUs  of  Tallu- 
lah  and  Toccoa,  the  valley  of 
Nacoochee  and  Mount  Tonah 
in  Habersham  County,  the  Cas- 
cades of  Eastatoia  and  the 
great  Babun  Gap  in  Babun ; 
aU  within  a  day's  ride  of  the 
Table  Jiountmn,(^B8ar's  Head, 
Jocassee,  the  Whitewater 
Falls,  and  other  wonders  of 
South  Carolina.  Further  west 
are  the  Falls  of  Ammicalolah, 
the  Cahutta  Mountain,  the 
Dogwood  Valley,  and  Mount 
Look-out.  This  was  formerly 
the  hunting-ground  of  the 
Oberokees;  and,  indeed,  not 
many  years  have  passed  since 
the  final  removal  of  this  tribe 
to  new  homes  beyond  the  Mis- 
dssipin. 

CwurkMrriUa,  a  pleasant 
villMe  in  Habersham  County, 
is  a  nivorite  summer  residence 
of  the  people  of  the  **Low 


country  "  of  Georgia,  an^  the  pdlnt  of 
rendesvoQS  for  the  explotationef  the 
landscape  of  the  region— 4he  point 
from  whence  to  reach  Tallulah,  Toccoa, 
Nacoochee,  etc.  From  Charleston  or 
Columbia,  or  other  places  in  South 
Carolina,  follow  the  railways  to  Green> 
ville  or  to.Anderson,  S.  C,  and  proceed 
thence  by  stage,  one  to  two  days*  ride, 
to  Clariuville;  or  take  the  Georgia 
railways  fiK>m  Augusta  to  Athens,  and 
thence  by  stage,  one  or  two  days'  travel 
to  ClarksviUe,  passing  the  Madison 
Springs,  Mount  Currahee,  and  Toccoa. 
Tocoott  Falls  (for  route  see  Clatks- 
ville,  above),  is  in  the  County  of  Ha- 
bersham, a  few  miles  firom  the  village 
of  Clariuville. 


Falls  of  Toceoa,  Qtoigia. 


a«o 


aXOBGIA. 


TIm  7aOa  of  Tooom  and  lUlabh. 


The  late  Jadge  Ohultoiii  dewribing 
^hu  fiunoiu  fleen^^  wys: 
.  BeTenl  yean  haTe  pused  away  dnce 
I  hut  stood  at  the  bea)^  Uibl  Fall  of  the 
TpeoM.  It  was  one  6f  the  delightfol 
sanuner  days  peculiar  to  the  climate  of 
HalMnham  OouiitT.  The  ait  had  all 
the  elasticity  of  Uie  high  re^^on  that 
sorroiinded  us,  and  tiie  scenery  was  of 
a  character  to  devate  our  spirits  and 
enliven  our  fimcy. 

A'  narrow  passage  led  us  firom  the 
soad-rfde  to  the  foot  of  the  Fall.  Be- 
isire  us  appeared  the  perpendicular  face 
<if  rock,  resembling  a  rugged  stone 
liailil,  and  over  it, 

**1b«  iMMk  earn*  iMbbUng  down  the  laoaa* 
,,  tidn'stide." 

The  stream  had  lost  much  of  its  ful- 
ness from  the  recent  dry  weather,  and 
as  it  became  lashed  into  Airr,  by  its 
sudden  fell,  it  resembled  a  nlver  rib- 
boui  hung  graceflilly  over  the  fiwe  of 
the  rook,  and  waving  to  and  fro  with 
the  bK^th  of  the  wind.  Itrembded 
me  more  forcibly  than  any  otlier  scene 
I  had  ever  Iwheld,  of  the  poetic  de- 
scriptions of  &iry-land.  It  is  just  such 
a  pwee — as  has  been  often  remarked  by 
oUienHowhere  we  might  expect  the 
fays  and  elves  to  assemble  of  a  moon- 
I&h^  night,  to  hold  their  festival  on 
tna ,  green  bank,  whilst  the  spray, 
clothra  with  all  the  varied  colors  of  the 
raindiow,  formed  a  halo  of  glory  around 
their  heads.  It  is,  indeed,  beautiAil, 
surpassingly  beautiful:  the  taU  trees 
reaching  out  half  way  up  the  mountain 
height,  the  niter  cascade  foaming  o'er 
die  brow  of  the  hiU,  the  troubled  waves 
of  the  mimic  sea  t>eneath,  tlie  lulline 
sound  of  the  &Uing  water,  and  tlie  oim 
of  tlie  mountain  birds  around  you,  each 
and  all  come  with  %  soothing  power 
upon  the  lieart,  wUch  makes  It  anxious 
to  linger  through  the  long  hours  of  the 
summer  day. 

Tearing  ourselves  away  fbom  the  en- 
chantment that  held  us  below,  we  tolled 
o«r  way  up  to  the  top  of  the  Fall,  using 
a.  path  that  wound  around  the  moun- 
tain. When  we  reached  the- summit, 
we  trusted  ourselves  to  such  support,  as 


a  small  tree,  which  overhangs  the  pn' 
cifdce,  could  give  us.  and  looted  over 
into  the  baon  beneath.  Then,  growing 
bolder  as  our  Sfrfrits  rose  with  the  ex- 
citement of  the  scene,  we  divcftcd  our- 
selves of  our  boots  and  stockmgs,  imd 
waded  into  the  stream,  until  we  ap- 
proached within  a  few  feet  of  the  cas- 
cade. This  can  be  done  with  but  ITttl^ 
danger,  u  the  brook  keeps  on  the*ev«n 
and  unruffled  tenor  of  its  way,  until 
just  as  it  takes  its  lofty  plunge  mto  the 
abyss  below. 

The  height  of  the  Fall  is  now  189 
feet ;  formerly  it  was  some  feet  higher, 
but  a  portion  of  the  rock  was  dqtsche^ 
some  years  ago  bv  the  attrition  of  the 
water,  and  its  fau  has  detracted  from 
the  perpendicular  descent  of  the  stream. 

**  BeantifkilatrMmlet  I  onward  gUd«^ 
In  thy  destined  ooune  to  the  eesan^  ttdal 
80  yonth  impetuona,  longs  to  be-^ 
Tossed  on  the  waves  of  manhood's  wa: 
Bnt  weary  soon  of  olond  and  blast, 
Bighs  for  the  haven  Its  bark  hath  past; 
And  though  thou  mshest  now  Wtw  ^IM, 
By  hill  and  plain  to  seek  the  sea- 
No  lovelier  spot  ag^n  thoult  Had, 
Than  that  thou  lea  vest  here  behind: 
Where  hill  and  rook  •  rebound  the  flalC'  V 
Of  olear  Tooeoa's  water-IUl  i " 

There  are  picturesque  legends  con- 
nected with  this  winsome  spot ;  one  of 
them  narrates  the  story  of  an  IncBan 
chief  and  liis  followers,  who,  bent  upon 
the  extermination  of  the  whites,  and 
trusting  to  the  guidance  of  a  woman, 
was  led  by  her  over  the  precimce^  and, 
of  course,  perished  in  their  fiuS. 

The  Oatanota  of  Tallnlah  are  12 
miles  from  Clarksville  rsee  route  to 
Claricsville),  by  a  road  of  very  varied 
beauty.  From  Toccoa  'o  Tallulah  the 
cut  across  is  five  or  six  miles  on^. 
There  is  a  comfortable  hotel  near  the 
edge  of  the  gorges  traversed  by  this 
wild  mountain  stream,  and  hard  by  ito 
army  of  waterfalls. 

The  Tallukh  or  Tmwtf,  aS  the  In- 
dians more  appositely  called  it,  is  a  small 
stream,  which  rushes  through  an  awful 
chasm  in  the  Blue  Ridge,  rending  it  for 
several  miles.  The  ravine  is  1,000  feet 
in  depth,  and  of  a  similar  width.  Iti 
walls  are  gigantic  oliffli  of  dark  granite. 


\5 


V..r;M 


unta 


and 

ronoan, 

and, 

are  12 

ite  to 

Taried 

)ah  the 

only. 

sarthe 

by  this 

by  its 


Vails  of  TaUnUh— Valley  of  Naoooehoe— Mount  Tonab— Eastat^kk 


The  heary  masses  piled  upon  each 
other  in  the  wildest  conftaaion,  some- 
,  times  shoot  oat,  OTerhanging  the  yawn- 
ing  gi4f,  and  threatening  to  break  from 
their  seemingly  frail  tenure,  and  hurl 
therasdves  headlong  into  its  dark 
depths. 
'Along  the  rocky  and  wieTen  bed  of 
this  deep  abyss,  the  influiated  Terrora 
frets  and  foams  with  ever  varying 
course.  Now,  it  flows  in  sullen  majesty, 
through  a  deep  and  romantic  glen,  em- 
bowered in  the  foliage  of  the  trees, 
which  here  and  there  spring  from  the 
rocl^  ledges  of  the  ohann  walls.  Anon, 
it  rushes  inth  accelerated  motion,  break- 
ing fretlUly  over  protruding  rocks,  and 
uttering  hush  murmurs,  as  it  reiges  a 
precijdoe. 

■*  Where,  ooUeoted  bU, 
Ib  one  impetaors  torrent,  down  the  steep 
It  thnndmng  shoots,  and  shakes  the  oonn- 

;  417  roniid. 
At  flnt^aa  aiore  sheet,  it  mshes  broad : 
Then  whitening  by  degrees  as  prone  it  ftlla, 
And  ftom  the  lona-iesoonding  roeks  below 
IJash'd  in  a  elond  of  foam,  it  sends  aloft 
A  hoary  mist,  and  fiMrms  a  oeaseleas  shower." 

The  most  familiar  point  of  obaerra- 
tion  is  the  Pulpit,  an  immense  cliff 
which  projects  far  into  the  chasm. 
From  tms  porition,  the  extent  and  depth 
of  the  fearful  ravine,  and  three  of  the 
most  romantic  of  the  numerous  cata- 
racts fure  observed.  At  various  other 
localities  fine  glimpses  down  into  the 
deep  gorge  are  afforded,  and  numerous 
other  paths  lead  to  the  bottom  of  the 
chasm.  At  the  several  cataracts — ^the 
Zodore,  the  l^peatOy  the  Oceana,  the 
Serpentine,  and  others, — ^the  picture  is 
ever  a  new  and  striking  one— which  the 
niost  striking  and  beautifbl,  it  would  be 
very  difficult  to  determine.  The  natural 
recess  called  the  Trysting  Rock,  once 
tjtie  sequestered  meeUng  place  of  In- 
dian Idvers,  is  now  a  ludting-spot  for 
merry  groups  as  they  descend  the 
chasm,  just  below  the  Lodore  cascade. 
From  this  point,  Lodore  is  upon  the 
left,  up  the  stream ;  a  huge  perpendicular 
wall  of  parti-colored  rock  towers  up 
in  front  and  below;  to  the  right  are 
seen  the  foaming  watera  of  the  Oceana 
cascade,  and  the  durk  glen  into  which 


they  are  surging  their  maddened  w|y. 
Tempests,  tte  Serpentine,  and  other 
fiiUs.  lie  yet  below. 

The  wild  grandeur  of  this  moun- 
tidn  gorge,  and  the  variety,  number, 
and  maguifloence  of  its  cataracts,  give 
it  rank  with  the  most  ~impodiig  watev* 
fitll  scenery  in  the  Union. 

The  Vallaj  of  Naoocdiee  ir  the 
Evening  Star,  is  said  by  tradition  to 
have  won  its  name  from  the  story  of 
the  hapless  love  of  a  beauteous  In^Uui 
princess,  whose  sceptre  once  ruled  its 
solitudes.  With  or  without  such  as* 
sociations,  it  wiU  be  renfembered  with 
pleasure  by  all  whose  fortune  it  may  be 
to  see  it.  The  valley-passages  of  the 
South  are  spedaUtiies  m  the  landscape, 
being  often  so  small  and  so  thoroughly 
and  markedly  shut  in,  that  each  forms 
a  complete  lecture,  neither  more  nor 
less,  in  itself.  The  little  vale  of  Jocaa- 
see  in  South  Carolina,  b  such  a  seene, 
and  tiiat  of  Kacoochee  is  another,  and 
yet  finer  example. 

Nacoochee,  like  Tullulah  andToocoa, 
is  a  matter  of  a  day's  excurrion  firom 
Olarksville. 

Mdnat  Tonah  looks  down  into  the 
quiet  heart  of  Nacoochee,  lying  at  its 
base.  If  the  tourist  shotdd  stay  over- 
night in  the  valley,  as  he  will  be  apt  to 
do,  he  will  take  a  peep  at  the  mountain 
panorama  to  be  seen  from  the  summit  of 
old  Jonah. 

The  Fall!  off  tli*  Butatda  are 
some  three  or  four  miles  from  the  villace 
of  Olayton,  in  Rabun,  the  extreme  north- 
eastern county  of  Oeorria.  Iliey  lie 
off  tiie  road  to  the  right.  In  the  passage 
of  the  Rabun  Gap.  one  of  the  moun- 
tain ways  from  Georgia  into  North 
Oaroliaa.  Clayton  may  be  reached 
eadly  from  Glarksville,  the  next  town 
southward,  or  in  a  ride  of  12  miles  from 
the  Fall^  of  Tallukh. 

The  idllage  of  Clayton  is  an  out-of- 
the-way  little  place,  occupying  the 
centre  of  a  valley  completely  encircled 
by  lofty  mountam  ranges. 

The  Eastatoia,  or  the  Rabun  Falb  as 
they  are  otherwise  called,  would  be 
a  spot  of  crowded  resort,  were  it  in 
tiie  midst  of  a  more  thickly  peo[ded 


*^  n 


382 


aiOBGIA. 

Smbm  in  th»  Mountain  Ikfton. 


eoontry.  The  so^im  is  a  mooeBdon  of 
cnacnd— ,  noble  in  Tolnme  and  charao- 
ter,  down  the  lavined  flanln  of  a  nurged 
moontain  lieight.  From  the  top  ofone 
of  the  Ughesl  of  the  fUlsa  magnificent 
view  isnined  of  the  valley  and  waten 
of  the  Tennemee,  north  of  the  Tillage  of 
Clayton,  and  the  hilla  which  enoompam 
it. 

In  the  neighborhood  of  Bastatoia, 
and,  indeedi  ul  tlurough  Babon  County, 
the  traveller  will  find  every  where  de* 
liffhtfiil  hill,  valley,  and  brook  loenery. 
We  once  traversed  all  the  region  leisure 
ly,  and  with  great  pleasure,  en  route 
from  Clarksvilfo  to  the  French  Broad 
Biver  in  North  Carolina. 

Mtountain  Anoonnnodattoaa.  We 
ought,  perhaps,  to  remind  the  traveller, 
that  when  he  leavep  the  frequented 
routes  hereabouts,  or  any  where  among 
tiie  Southern  hills,  he  must  voyage  in 
his  own  conveyance,  wagon  or  Irorse- 
back  (the  latter  the  better),  stop  for  the 
night  at  any  cabin  near  wldch  the 
twilight  may  find  him,  content  himself 
with  such  figure  as  he  can  eet  (we  won't 
discourage  him  by  presenting  tne  earte), 
and  pay  for  it  moderately  when  he  re- 
sumes his  journey  in  the  morning. 

Union  County,  lying  upon  the  north- 
west line  of  Habersham,  is  distinguished 
for  natm«l  beauty,  and  for  its  objects 
of  antiouarian  interest. 

The  Txmbk  Rook,  in  Union,  bearing 
wonderAil  impressions  of  the  feet  of 
curious  animds  now  extinct,  must  be 
seen  to  be  believed. 

Pilot  MdantatB,  also  in  Union,  is  a 
noble  elevation  of  some  1,200  feet. 

BiawwHMe  Fallai  in  the  Hiawassee 
Biver;  there  are  some  beautiful  cas- 
cades, some  of  them  from  60  to  100 
feet  in  height. 

The  Falls  of  Amwlnalolnh  are  in 
Lumpkin  County,  southwest  of  Haber- 
sham. They  lie  some  17  miles  west  of 
the  village  of  Dahloneea,  near  the  State 
road  leamng  to  East  Tennessee.  The 
name  is  a  compound  of  two  Cherokee 
words — "Ami,**  nignifying  water;  and 
"Cidolah,"  rolling  or  tumbling,  strik- 
i^y  expressive  of  the  cataract,  and 
,  alrording  oa  another  instance  of  the  rim- 


plioity  and  significant  foroe^x  of  tho 
names  conferred  by  the  natntofed  sons 
of  the  forest. 

The  visitor  will  rein  no  at  the  nearest 
ftrm-house.  and  make  Us  way  thence, 
either  up  the  Battlesnake  Hollow  Uy^e 
base  of  the  FaUs,  or  to  the  summit. 
The  range  of  mountains  to  the  sovfth 
and  west,  as  it  strikes  the  eye  fron>  the 
top  of  the  falls,  is  truly  subUme ;  and 
the  scene  is  scarcely  surpsased  in  gran- 
deur by  any  other,  even  in  this  country 
of  everlasUng  hills.  The  view  from 
the  foot  embraces,  as  strictly  regards 
the  falls  themselves,  much  more  than 
the  view  from  above,  and  is  therefore, 
perhaps,  the  better;  both,  however, 
should  be  obtidned  in  order  to  form  a 
just  conception  of  the  scene ;  for  here 
we  he  ve  a  succession  of  cataracts  and 
cascades,  the  greatest  not  exceeding  60 
feet,  but  the  torrent  in  the  distance  of 
400  yards,  descending  more  than  as 
many  hundred  feet.  This  creek  has  its 
source  upon  the  Blue  Bidge,  several 
nules  east  of  the  falls;  and  it  winds  its 
way,  fringed  with  wild  flowers  of  the 
richest  dyes,  and  kissed  in  autumn  by 
the  purple  wild  grapes  which  cluster 
over  its  transparent  bosom;  and  so 
tranquil  and  mirror-like  is  its  surAice, 
tiiat  one  will  fancy  it  to  be  a  thing  of 
life,  conscious  of  its  proximate  late, 
rallying  all  its  energies  for  the  startling 
leap;  and  he  $an  scarcely  forbear 
moraliring  upon  the  oft-recurring  aud 
striking  vicissitudes  of  human  life,  as 
illustrated  in  the  brief  career  of  this 
beautiful  streamlet. 

From  an  elevated  point,  attained  in 
ascending  the  mountain  on  the  east, 
Dahlonega,  embosomed  in  its  lovely 
hUls,  is  dutinctly  visible;  several  of 
the  principal  buildings  are  distinguish- 
able— among  them,  the  United  States 
Branch  Mint. 

The  Xiook-oat  Mountain.  On  the 
summit  of  tUs  beautiful  spur  the  north- 
west comer  of  Georgia  and  the  north- 
east extremity  of  Alabama  meet  on 
the  southern  boundary  of  Tennessee. 
Almost  in  the  shadow  of  the  Look-out 
heights  lies  the  busy  town  of  Chatta- 
nooga, in  Tennessee,  on  the  great  rail- 


Smiim  la  tb*  llotntatai  Bagloa. 


288 


-r- 


1 


led  in 
{le  east, 

lovely 
leral  of 

igiiish- 

Statos 

I  On  the 
north* 
north - 
leet  on 
Inessee. 
ik-out 
]hatta- 
fttnul- 


way  route  from  Charleston  Tia  the 
Georgia  roada  to  Knoztille,  and  thenee 
by  the  Ybginla  railways  to  the  north ; 
and  on  the  other  hand  we8tward,throagh 
KashTille  to  the  Ohio  and  the  Missis- 
sip^  /8m  Chattanooga  in  tlie  ehapter 
on  Tennessee. 

The  country  aroond  the  **Look  ont^ 
is  extremely  picturesque ;  the  views  dl 
about  the  mountain  itself  are  admi- 
rable, and  nothing  can  exceed  hi  beauty 
the  charming  vwey  of  the  Tennessee 
and  its  waters,  as  seen  from  its  lofty 
summit.  It  is,  too,  in  the  immediate 
vicinage  of  other  remarkable  localiUes, 
the  D^ifwood  Valley,  hard  by ;  Georgia 
and  the  Niokaiack  Cave  in  Alabama. 

The  Mlokigkok  Onwtt.  The  mouth 
of  this  wonderful  cavern,  which  has 
only  to  be  known  in  order  to  be  famous, 
is  in  Alabama,  although  otherwise  it 
traverses  Geor^  territory.  We  leave 
it  therefore  for  our  chapter  on  Alabama. 

There  are  some  other  mountain  and 
waterfkll  pictures  in  Georj^a  besides 
those  in  the  upper  tier  of  counties,  a 
few  isolated  scenes  lower  down,  stand- 
ing as  outposts  to  the  bill-re^on,  as 
Mount  Cnirahee,  the  Rock  Mountain, 
and  the  Falls  of  Towalaga. 

Mount  Oannliee  is  on  the  upper 
edge  of  Franklin  County,  adjoining 
Habersham,  where  we  lunve  already 
visited  the  Falls  of  Tallulah  and  Toccoa, 
Nachoochee  and  Tonah,  and  on  the 
stage  route  from  Athens  (see  route  to 
Clarksville)  to  those  scenes.  It  is  about 
16  miles  above  the  village  of  Cairnes- 
ville,  and  a  few  miles  below  the  Toccoa 
cascade. 

Mount  Currahee,  in  the  midst  of 
mountains,  might  not  be  very  notifi- 
able; but  isolated  as  it  is,  and  as  an 
appetizer  for  the  feast  of  wild  beauties 
which  the  traveller  fkrom  the  lowlands 
is  anticipating,  it  is  always  a  scene  of 
much  interest. 

The  Rook  Mountain  is  a  place  of 
great  repute  and  resort  in  the  western 
part  of  the  State.  It  is  in  De  Kalb 
County,  where  also  is  Atlanta,  the 
western  terminus  of  the  Georgia  Rail- 
way. It  may  thus  be  ea^ly  reached  by 
the  Georgia  Road  from  Augusta,  and 


all  pointa  thereon,  and  from  all  ptoeea 
fn  the  many  dillinrent  railways  meetii^ 
at  Athmta.  (See  Atknta.)  The  pra- 
oise  locaHtjy  of  the  Rock  or  Stone 
Moontahi,  b  at  the  Stone  Mountain 
station  on  tb»  Geoigb  Railway,  10  miles 
east  of  Atlanta,  and  9  miles  east  of 
Decatur,  the  capital  of  the  county. 
AccommodAtionsare  ample..  The  moun- 
tain stands  alone  in  a  comparatively 
level  region.  It  covers  1,000  acres  of 
surface.  '  Ita  cirenmflBrence  is  about 
six  miles.  Ita  height  above  the  sea 
2,280  feet,  yet  increased  by  the  addition 
of  an  observatory. 

The  western  new  of  the  mountain, 
though  perhaps  the  most  beautiAil,  is 
not  calcuUted  to  give  the  behcAder  a 
just  conception  of  ita  msgnitnde.  To 
obtain  this,  he  must  visit  we  north  and 
south  sides,  both  at  the  base  and  at  the 
summit.  Pursuing,  for  half  a  mile,  a 
road  which  winds  in  an  easterly  dUree- 
tion  along  the  base  of  the  mountain, 
the  traveller  arrives  directly  opposite 
ita  northern  front  There  the  view  is 
exceedinely  grand  and  imposing. .  This 
side  of  ue  mountdn  presenta  an  id- 
most  uninterrupted  surfikce  of  rock, 
rising  about  900  feet  at  its  greatest 
elevation.  It  extends  nearly  a  mile 
and  a  hal^  ^dually  declining  toward 
the  west,  while  the  eastern  termination 
is  abrupt  and  precipitous.  The  side  is 
not  peipendicular,  but  exhibito  rather  a 
convex  face,  deeply  marked  with  Air- 
rows.  During  a  shower  of  rain,  a  thou- 
sand wateifalb  pour  down  these  chan- 
nels, and  if^  as  sometimes  happens,  the 
sun  breaks  forth  in  his  splendor,  the 
mimic  torrento  flash  and  sparkle  in-his 
beams,  like  the  coruscations  of  count- 
less diamonds. 

Near  the  road  is  a  spring,  which 
from  the  beauty  of  its  location,  and  the 
delightful  coolness  of  ita  water,  is  an 
agreeable  place  of  resort.  It  is  in  a 
shady  dell,  and  ita  water  gushes  up 
from  a  deep  bed  of  white  and  sparkling 
sand.  A  more  exquisite  beverage  a 
pure  taste  could  not  desire. 

Among  the  curiosities  of  the  moun- 
tain, there  are  two  which  are  espe- 
cially deserving  of  notice.    One  is  tiie 


984 


WatMfldb  and  Bpriaga. 


"OroMBoAdi.''  There  are  (wo  orer- 
ioee  or  flaiures  In  the  rook,  wbioh  crow 
eaeh  other  nearly  at  right  angles.  They 
ooBunence  aa  mere  onoka,  faiereaahig 
to  the  width  and  depth  of  Ato  feet,  at 
their  Intereeetion.  Thej  are  of  differ> 
ent  lengthi,  the  longest  extending, 
probably  400  feet  These  ourioos  pas- 
sages  are  oorered  at  tiieir  jnnotion  by 
a  flat  rook,  about  SO  feet  in  diam- 
eter. 

Another  is  the  rains  of  a  fortiflca> 
tion,  which  once  surrounded  the  crown 
of  the  mountain.  It  is  said  to  have 
stood  entire  in  1788.  When,  or  by 
whom,  it  waa  erected,  is  unknown. 
The  Indians  say,  that  it  was  there 
before  the  time  of  their  fathers. 

Tlw  Falls  of  tin  Townlaga  would 
be  beautifyil  any  where,  and  they  are 
therefore  particularly  so,  occurring  as 
they  do  in  a  part  of  the  State  not  re- 
markable for  its  picturesque  character. 
ThcT  lie  some  distance  south  of  the 
Rock  Mountain, '  and  may  be  easily 
reached  from  Forsyth  or  Griffin,  on  the 
line  of  the  railway  from  Macon  to 
Atlanta. 

nie  river  above  the  ialls  Is  about 
three  hundred  feet  in  width,  flowing 
swiftly  over  a  rooky  shoaL  At  its  flrst 
descent,  it  is  divided  by  a  ledge  of  rock, 
and  ftwrns  two  precipitous  fidb  for  a 
distance  of  flfty  feet  The  fidls  are 
much  broken  by  -the  uneven  surface 
over  which  the  water  flows,  and  on 
reaching  tiieir  rooky  iMUitti  we  sUvered 
into  foam  and  sprav. 

From  the  foot  of  this  ftB,  |bi(  stream 
foams  rafridly  down  its  declivitous  chan- 
nel, for  two  hundred  feet,  and  again 
bounds  over  a  minor  precipice  in  sev- 
eral distinct  cascades,  which  commingle 
their  waters  at  its  base  in  a  cloud  of 
foam. 

th»  &idiwi  Sprlnga  are  in  Butts 
County,  near  the  Falls  oS  the  Towalaga. 
Stop  at  Forsyth  or  Griffin,  on  the  rtul- 
way  between  Macon  and  Atlanta.  i 


TIm  MwHiffn  Bpciaga  ara  on  the 
stage  route  from  Athens  to  the  waterfUl 
reipon  of  Habersham  Oountv,  1  milea 
from  Danielsville,  the  capital  of  Madi- 
son CSounty.  Take  the  Georgia  Bailway 
and  Athens  Branch  to  Athens  thence 
by  stage. 

Tbm  Waim  Spclagt,  in  Merri- 
weather  Ck>onty,  are  86  mllw  by  stage 
ftx>m  Columbus.  A  nearer  nulway 
point  is  Lagrange,  on  the  Atlanta  and 
Lagranse  Railway,  oonneoUng  at  At* 
lanta  with  the  Georgia  road  from  Au- 
gusta. These  springs  discharge  1,400 
gallons  of  water  per  minute  of  90  de- 
grees Fahrenheit 

Tho  Snlpluir  Spxinga  are  6  ndlw 
north  of  GainMville,  Hall  County,  in 
the  upper  part  of  the  State.  The 
nearest  rdlway  point  is  Athens,  on  the 
branch  of  the  Great  Georgia  Roact~ 
thence  bv  stage. 

T|m  Bowland  Sningi  are  about  6 
miles  from  GartersvUle,  in  Caw  County. 
Cartersville  is  a  station  on  the  great 
railway  route  from  Charleston  via  An- 
gusta  to  Tennessee.  Western  and  At- 
lantic link  4*7  miles  above  Atlanta ;  91 
miles  below  Chsttanocwa.    , 

The  Rod  lEkil^^liiur  qpdlif^  or  "  the 
Vah  of  8prii^»J*  are  at  the  base  of 
Taylor*s  Ridge,  in  WiOker  Obonty,  the 
north-west  corner  of  the  Sti^e.  West- 
em  and  Atlantic  Railway.  In  the  vicin- 
age is  the  Look-out  Mountidn  and  other 
beautiM  scenes.  No  lees  than  twenty 
springs  are  found  here  in  the  space  of 
half  a  mile,— chalybeate,  sulphur,  red, 
white  and  black,  and  magnena. 

Tlw  Thnndartaig  SpniigB  are  in  llp' 
son  County,  in  the  west  central  part  of 
the  State.  Nearest  rulway  station, 
Forsyth,  on  the  western  and  Macon 
route  from  Macon  to  Atlanta. 

Tho  Pofwdwr  ^pcinga — sulphur  and 
magnesia — are  in  Cobb  County,  accessi- 
ble from  Marietta,  20  miles  above  At- 
lanta, on  the  Western  and  Atlantie 
Rulway. 


ILABAXA. 


OmniI 


ALABAMA. 

Tn  Bfttond  b«ftvtfeii  of  AhlwuBa,  MoepUng  in  the  paotdtftr  fcatorM  ef  Hm 
■outhern  lowluidi  Men  new  the  oomI,  we  not  of  Moh  marked  Intereet  to  tho 
towtit  •■  the  kndacape  of  some  other  State*.  Still  we  ihell  lead  attention  to 
many  oljecta  moat  noteworthy  and  ei^oyable. 

In  the  npper  region  are  the  extreme  loathem  ontpoeta  of  the  great  ADp»> 
laoUan  hlu  ranges ;  bat,  aa  if  wearied  iHth  all  thdr  long  Joomej,  tiiey  n«e 
droop  thdr  oqoe  bold  heads  and  fidl  to  aleep,  wilUng,  peraapa,  to  aecept  the 
poewal  rignifloation  of  the  name  of  the  new  territory  into  which  they  now 
enter— Alabama,  BtH  m*  tML 

WhOe  the  upper  portion  of  the  State  Is  thna  mde  and  hiDy,  the  central  fhlk 
Into  fertile  prune  reaches.  The  extreme  southern  edge  for  fifty  or  sixty  mUes 
from  the  guf,  is  sometimes  a  sandy,  sometimes  a  rich  uluTlal  plain. 

The  climate,  lUce  most  of  all  the  southern  line  of  States,  Taries  from  the  char* 


A  Cotton  FUatttloo,  AMwm*. 


aoterlsttol  of  the  irofdcs  below,  through  all  the  intermediate  degrees  to  the  sac 
lubriouB  and  inyigorating  air  of  the  mountdn  lands  abore. 

The  chief  agricultural  product  of  Alabama  is  cotton,  of  which  great  staple  it 
Yields  more  tlun  any  other  State  hi  the  Union.  Extensiye  canebrakes  once  ex- 
isted, but  they  have  been  greatly  cleared  away.  Sugar  cane  grows  on  the  south- 
west neck,  between  Mobile  and  the  MissindppL  Many  of  the  rich  alluvial  tracts 
yield  rice  abundantly.  Tobacco,  also,  is  {woduced.  Indian  com,  oats,  sweet 
potatoes,  buckwheat,  barley,  flue,  and  rilk,  are  much  cultivated,  beddes  many 
other  grains,  fruits,  and  vegetables,  and  large  supplies  of  live  stock  of  all  ds^ 
scriptions. 

Jiineral  produeU.    Alabama  Is  rich  in  great  depodts  of  coal,  iron,  variegated 


986 


ALABAMA. 


TIm  AtebuM  Btrwr;  Bmbm  ud  laddtBti. 


marblea,  limMtona^  and  other  mineral  treasures.    Gold  mines,  too,  ha>e  been 
found  and  worlied.    Salt,  sulfdmr,  and  chalybeate  sprinn  abound. 

/Hstory.  It  is  supposed  that  Alabama  was  first  Tisited  hj  white  men  in  1S41, 
when  the  gallant  troopa  of  De  Soto  passed  through  its  wildernesses,  on  their 
memorable  exploring  expedition  to  the  great  Mississippi.  In  ITOS,  a  fort  was 
erected  in  Mobile  Bay  bv  a  FrenohmAn  named  BienTille,  and  nine  Tears  later 
the  present  site  of  the  cltj  of  Mobile  was  occupied.  At  the  peace  of  1768,  this 
territorj  passed  into  the  po«ession  of  the  English,  with  all  the  IVenoh  possessions 
(except  New  Orleans)  east  of  the  Missisrippi.  Uhtil  1802  Alabama  was  included 
In  the  domain  of  6eor|^a,  and  after  1802  and  up  to  1817  it  was.  a  part  of  the 
Mistfssipid  Territory.  At  that  period  it  was  formed  into  a  distinct  goyemment, 
and  was  admitted  in  1819  into  tpe  Union  as  an  independent  State. 


TIm  Alnlwinn  Btwir  la  a  grand 
navig«ble  stream,  formed  by  the  meet- 
ing, some  ten  miles  aboTe  Montgomery, 
of  the  Coosa  «nd  the  Tallapoosa.  About 
15  miles  abore  the  Mobile  it  is  Joined 
by  the  Tombigbee,  and  the  united  waters 
are  thence  Imown  as  the  Mobile  River. 
The  Alabama  is  nayieable  for  large 
steamers  through  its  whole  course  of 
460  miles,  from  the  dty  of  Mobile  to 
Wetumplca.  It  has  long  been,  and  still 
is,  a  part  of  the  great  highway  from 
Boston  and  New  York  to  New  Orleans. 
It  flows  through  a  country  of  rich  cot- 
ton  fieldil,  broad  savanna  lands,  and 
dense  forest  tracts. 

A  Toyager  on  the  Alabama  thus 
memorandizes  upon  the  boats,  the  land- 
scape, and  the  incidents  of  the  journey. 
His  vessel — the  first  he  had  seen  of  these 
magnificent  steamen— **  was  fittted  up 
for  the  twofold  purpose  of  carrying 
as  many  bales  of  cotton  as  can  be 
heaped  upon  them  without  their  sink- 
ing, and  taking  in  as  many  passengers 
as  can  ei\}oy  the  luxuries  whieh  South- 
em  manners  and  a  hot  climate  require, 
especially  spacious  cabins,  abundance 
of  fresh  air,  and  protection  from  the 
sun.  The  principal  cabins  of  the  steam- 
er ran  the  whole  length  of  the  ship,  on 
a  deck  above  that  on  which  the  machin- 
ery wa&  placed  and  where  the  cotton 
was  piled  up.  This  upper-deck  was 
chiefly  occufried  by  a  hanc^me  saloon, 
about  200  feet  long,  the  ladies'  cabin  at 
one  end  opemng  into  it  with  folding- 
doors.  Sofas,  rocldng-chairs,  tables, 
and  a  stove,  were  pk^d  in  this  room, 
which  was  lighted  by  windows  from 


above.  On  each  side  of  it  was  •  row 
of  sleeping  apartments,  each  communi- 
cating by  one  door  with  the  saloon,- 
while  the  other  led  out  to  the  guard,  as 
they  call  it— « long  balcony  or  gallerv, 
covered .  with  a  shade  or  verandah, 
which  passed  round  the  whole  boat. 
The  second-class,  or  deck  passengers, 
slept  where  thev  could|  on  the  lower 
floor,  where,  besides  the  en^^e  fnd  th6 
cotton,  there  were  prodigious  heaps  of 
wood,  which  were  devoured  with  mar- 
vellous rapidity  by  the  fomaoe,  and 
were  often  restored  at  the  different 
landings,  a  set  of  negroes  being  pm> 
posely  hired  for  this  work. 

**  These  steamers,  notwithstanding 
their  size,  draw  but  very  little  water, 
for  they  are  constructed  for  rivers  which 
rise  and  fbll  very  rapidly.  They  can- 
not quite  realize  the  boast  of  a  western 
captain,  that  he  could  sail  on  the  morn- 
ing dew,  but  some  of  them  dkiw 
scarcely  two  feet  of  water.  The  hieh- 
pressure  steam  escapes  into  the  air  by 
a  suo<!es8ion  of  explosions,  alternately, 
from  the  pipes  of  the  two  engines.  It 
is  a  most  unearthly  sound,  like  that  of 
some  huge  monster  gasping  for  breath ; 
and  when  they  clear  the  boilers  of  the 
sediment  collected  from  the  riyer- 
water,  it  is  done  by  a  loud  and  pro* 
tracted  discharge  of  steam,  which  re- 
minded one  of  the  frightM  noise  made 
by  a  steam-gun.  Were  it  not  for  the 
power  derived  from  the  high-pressure 
principle,  of  blowing  out  from  the  boil- 
ers the  deposit  collected  in  them,  the 
muddiness  of  the  American  rivers 
would  soon  clog  the  machinery.    Every 


kl.klUkUk, 


989 


Th«  AkibMM  BITOT ;  BenMMid  iBHdMto. 


b««n 


iding 
water, 
I  which 


brefisare 
|he  boU- 

em,  the 
rivew 
BTery 


•truiger  who  hat  heard  of  fktal  aoei- 
dent*  by  the  boreting  of  boUen,  be- 
Uerea,  the  flnt  time  he  heate  tUa  tre* 
meodoiM  noiM,  that  H  ie  all  OTer  with 
him,  and  ia  aorpriaed  to  aee  that  hia 
eompaniona  eTince  no  alarm.  Habit 
aoon  reoonoUed  as  to  the  aoond ;  and 
we  were  amnaed  to  obaerre  the  wild 
birda,  perched  on  the  treea  which  OTor- 
hang  the  riter,  looklnit  on  with  indiffet^ 
ence  while    the   paodle-wheela   were 

Slathbgin  the  water,  and  the  iteam- 
.  pea  pofflng  and  gaiiNng  loud  enough 
to  be  heard  many  milea  off.** 

"  The  pilot,*'  continuea  our  trareUer, 
"put  into  hia  handa  a  Uat  of  the  land- 
Inga  on  the  river,  from  Wetumpka  to 
Mobile— no  leaa  than  200  of  them,  in  a 
distance  of  484  milea.  X  email  part 
onlj  of  theae  consisted  of  bluflb,  or 
thoae  pointa  where  the  high  land  comea 
up  to  the  river's  edge— 4n  other  worda, 
wnere  tlMre  ia  no  aUurial  plain  between 
the  great  stream  and  the  higher  country. 
Theae  ipots,  beinc  the  only  ones  not 
liable  to  inundawm,  and  which  can, 
therefore,  serve  aa  inland  porta  when 
the  river  is  Aill,  or  when  the  largest 
boats  can  sail  up  and  down,  are  of  great 
importance  in  the  inland  navigation  of 
the  country.  A  proprietor  whose  ikrm 
is  thus  advantageouuy  situated,  uaually 
builda  a  warehouse,  not  only  for  storing 
up  for  embarkation  the  produce  of  hu 
own  land,  but  large  enough  to  take  in 
the  cotton  of  his  neighbors.  A  long 
and  8teeply>inclined  plane  is  cut  in  the 
high  bank,  down  whidi  one  heavy  bale 
amr  another  is  made  to  slide.  The 
negroes  show  great  dexterity  in  guiding 
these  heavy  packages;  but,  oecatdon- 
ally,  they  turn  over  and  over  before 
reaching  the  deck  of  the  boat,  and 
sometimes,  though  rarely,  run  off  tiie 
course  and  idunge  into  the  river,  where 
they  float  until  recovered. 

«« The  banks  of  the  Alabama,  Uke  those 
of  the  Savannah  and  Altamaha  rivers, 
are  fringed  with  canes,  over  wUch  usu- 
ally, towers  the  deciduous  cypress, 
covered  with  much  pendent  moss.  The 
mistletoe  enlivens  the  bougb«  of  the 
trees  when  out  of  leaf,  and  now  and 
then,  through  an  opening  in  the  thicket 


bordering  the  river,  the  evergreen  plno- 
foreat  ffmn  in  the  back-ground. 
Somo  of  the  largest  treea  on  the  banks 
are  ayeamofea  Xftahmtu  oeetdtntmUt), 
called  bntton>wood,  one  of  which,  when 
meaaured,  was  found  to  be  dghteen 
feet  in  cnonmforenee.  The  old  bark  Is 
continually  peeling  ofll^  and  the  new  is  aa 
white  as  If  the  trunk  of  the  tree  had 
been  painted." 

Wnen   it  was   growing  dusk,  and 
nearty  all  had  retired  to  their  cabins, 
and  some  to  their  beds,  our  traveller 
was  starded  by  a  loud  crash,  as  if  parte 
of  the  woodwoiA  of  the  steamer  were 
giving  way  over  his  head.  At  the  same 
moment,  a  diower  of  broken  gbMscame 
rattling  down  on  the  floor  of  the  cabin. 
Aa  he  expected  to  land  In  the  course  of 
the  idght.  he  had  not  taken  off  his 
clothes,  so  he  rushed  Immediately  on 
deck,  and  learnt  from  the  captdn  that 
there  was  no  danger.    He  then  went 
down  to  tell  the  passengers,  especially 
the  women,  who  were  natun^  in  no 
small  akrm,  that  all  w»8  safe.  He  found 
them  in  gnat  consternation,  crowded 
together  at  tlie  door  of  tiM   kdiee* 
cabin,  several  mothers  with  children  in 
their  arms.    When  he  returned  to  see 
what  had  haj^ned,  a  moat  singular  and 
novel   scene  presented  itself.     Crash 
after  crash  of  brcricen  spars  and  the 
ringing   of   shattered   window*glassei< 
were  still  heard,  and  the  conftition  and 
n<^  were  indeecribable.    "Don't  be 
alarmed ;  we  have  only  got  amons  the 
trees,"  said  tiie  captain.    This  he  found 
was  no  uncommon  occurrence,  when 
these  enormous  vessels  are  sweei^ng 
down  at  ftill  speed  in  the  flood  season. 
Strange  as  It  may  seem,  the  higher  the 
water  rises  the  narrower  is  tne  river 
channel.    It  is  true  that  the  adjoining 
swamps  and  lowlands  are  inundated  fhr 
and  wide;  but  the  steamers  must  all 
pass   between  two  rows  of  tall  trees 
which  adorn  the  opporite  banks,  and 
as  their  great  branches   stretch  out, 
very  often,  half  way  over  the  stream, 
the  boat,  when   the  river  has  risen 
forty  or  sixty  feet,  must  steer  between 
them.    In  the  dark,  when  they  are  go- 
ing at  the  rate  of  dxteen  mflesan hour 


S88 


BlTen,  Hill*  ud  Cavea,  et«. 


or  more,  and  the  bends  are  numerous, 
a  slight  miscalculation  carries  the  wood' 
work  of  the  great  cabin  in  among  the 
heads  of  the  trees.  In  this  predicament 
he  found  the  boat  when  he  got  on  deck, 
liany  a  strong  bough  had  pierced  right 
through  the  cabin  Endows  on  one  side, 
throwmg  down  the  lights  and  smashing 
the  wooden  balustrade  and  tho  roof  of 
the  long  gallery,  and  tearing  the  canvas 
awning  from  the  verandah.  The  engine 
had  been  backed,  or  its  motion  reversed, 
but  the  steamer,  held  fast  by  the  trees, 
was  swinging  round  with  the  force  of 
the  current.  A  large  body  of  men  were 
plying  their  axes  freely,  not  only  cut- 
ting off  boughe,  but  treating  with  no 
respect  the  framework  of  the  cabin  it- 
self.  He  could  not  hdlif  feeling  thank- 
ful that  no  branch  mi  obtruded  itself 
into  his  berth.  At  length  he  got  off, 
and  the  carpenters  and  glaziers  set  to 
work  immediately  to  make  repairs. 

The  Tombigbee  River  flows  460 
miles  from  the  north-east  comer  of 
Hisslsdppi,  first  to  Demopolis,  Alabama, 
where  it  unites  with  the  Black  Warrior, 
and  thence  to  the  Alabama  River,  about 
45  miles  above  Mobile.  Its  course  is 
through  fertile  savanna  lands,  occupied 
by  cotton  plantations.  Aberdeen,  Co- 
lumbus, PickensviUe,  Gainesville,  and 
Demopolis,  are  upon  its  banks.  Large 
steamboats  ascend  866  miles  to  Co- 
lumbus. 

The  Blaok  Waxxior  Biwer  unites 
at  Demopolis  with  the  Tombigbee  (see 
Tombigbee  above).  Tuscaloosa,  the  cap- 
ital of  the  State,  is  upon  its  banks. 
To  this  point  large  steamboats  regularly 
ascend,  806  miles,  from  Mobile.  Tlie 
Indian  name  of  this  river  was  Tusca- 
loosa, and  it  is  still  thus  sometimes  called. 

^e  CAiAttahoochee  forms  a  part  of 
the  Eastern  boundary  of  the  State. — 
See  Georgia. 

The  EUll-Reglon.— The  upper  part 
of  Alabama  is  jncturesquely  broken  by 
the  AUeghanies,  which  end  their  long 
journey  hereabouts.  In  the  north-east 
extremity  of  the  State,  there  are  many 
fine  landscape  passages. 

The  Nicdnjadk  0«we  enters  the 
Baccoon  Moonttin  a  few  miles  below 


Chattanooga,  Tennessee,  andthe  Look* 
out  Mountain,  and  immediately  finds  its 
way  into  Georgia.  A  magnificent  rocky 
arch  of  some  "^0  feet  span  forms  the 
mouth  of  the  oavem,  high  up  in  the 
mountain  mde.  Just  beneath  is  a  dainty 
little  lakelet,  formed  by  the  waters  of  a 
mysterious  brook,  which  comes  f^om 
the  interior  of  the  cave,  and  disappears 
some  distance  from  the  point  of  egress, 
rising  again  without.  How  the  waters 
of  this  singular  pond  vanish,  no  one 
know?^  any  more  than  how  they  come ; 
but  vanish  they  do,  for  some  distance, 
when  they  are  again  seen,  making  their 
way,  like  all  ordinary  mortar  Waters, 
toward  other  streams.  The  passage  of 
the  cave  is  made  in  a  canoe,  on  this 
subterranean  and  nameless  stream,  now 
through  immense  chambers  of  grand 
stalactites,  and  now  through  passages  so 
narrow,  that  to  pass,  one  must  crouch 
down  on  his  back  and  paddle  his  way 
against  the  walls  and  roof  of  the  proems- 
tean  tunnel.  We  thus  explored  the 
Nick^jack  some  years  ago  for  seven 
miles,  without  finding  its  end  or  any 
signs  thereof.  At  that  period  no  trav- 
eller had  before  penetrated  so  fitr,  and 
we  have  not  heard  of  any  additional 
revelations  since.  This  wonderful  Aver- 
nos  was  at  one  period  of  long  ago,  the 
rendezvous  of  the  band  of  a  certain 
negro  leader,  known  as  Nigger  Jack. 
His  mountain  head-quarters  were  thus 
called  "  Nigger  JackV  Cave,  a  patro- 
nymic refined  at  this  day  into  the  more 
romantic  name  of  the  Nickajack.  Large 
quantities  of  saltpetre  are  found  here. 

Natural  Bridge. — ^In  Walker  coun- 
ty there  is  a  remarkable  Natural  Bridge, 
thought  by  somo  travellers  to  be  more 
curious  than  the  celebrated  scene  Of  the 
same  kind  in  Virginia. 

TheMuade  raoahi  are  an  extenrive 
series  of  rapids  in  that  part  of  the  Ten- 
nessee River  which  lies  in  the  extreme 
northern  part  of  the  State.  The  de- 
scent of  tho  water  here  is  100  feet  In 
the  course  of  20  miles.  The  neighbor- 
hood is  a  famous  resort  of  wild  ducks 
and  geese,  which  come  in  great  flocks 
in  search  of  the  shell-fish  from  which 
the  rapids  derive  their  name.    Boati 


he  Look* 
)r  finds  its 
ent  rocky 
fomM  the 
ip  in  the 
is  B  dainty 
iters  of  a 
nea  from 
lisappears 
of  egress, 
he  waters 
ti,  no  one 
ley  come ; 
I  distance, 
kking  their 
ul  Waters, 
passage  of 
e,  on  this 
ream,  now 

of  grand 
)assagesso 
list  crouch 
le  his  way 
beproonis- 
pidred  the 

for  seven 
id  or  any 
)d  no  trav- 
&r,  and 

additional 

srfulAver- 
^g  ago,  the 

a  certain 

;ger  Jack. 

were  thus 

I,  a  patro- 
the  more 

|ck.  Large 
id  here. 

Ilker  coun- 

Bridge, 

be  more 

tneofthe 

1  extenrive 
the  Ten- 
|e  extreme 
The  de- 
feet  in 
I  neighbor- 
rild  ducks 
eat  flocks 
im  which 
le.    Boats 


289 


SpringB— BailwaTS-rOity  of  Mobile. 


cannot  pass  tins  part  of  the  Tennessee 
except  at  times  of  very  high  water.  A 
canal  was  once  built  around  the  shoals, 
but  it  has  been  abandoned  and  is  falling 
into  decay. 

Mhuind  Spilnga  abound  in  the  up- 
per part  of  Awl>ama.  The  Blount 
Springs,  in  Blount  County,  near  the 
Black  Warrior  river,  are  much  resorted 
to ;  and  so  also  'the  Bladen  Springs,  in 
Choctaw  County,  in  the  western  part  of 
the  State,  near  the  line  of  the  Mobile 
and  Ohio  Suiways.  At  Tuscumbia  a 
spring  issues  from  a  fissure  of  the  lime- 
stone rock,  discharging  20,000  cubic 
feet  of  water  per  minute.  It  forms  a 
considerable  brook,  which  enters  the 
Tennessee  2^  miles  below.  There  are 
valuable  sulfur  springs  in  Shelby  and 
Talladega  counties.  The  Shelby  Springs 
are  near  Columbiana,  on  the  Alabama 
and  Tennessee  lUver  Rulway. 

HantaviUs  is  a  l>eautiful  mountun 
village  of  Alabama,  on  the  line  of  the 
Memphis  and  Charleston  Railway,  160 
miles  above  Tuscaloosa  and^llO  below 
KashviUe,  Tennessee. 

BaitwayiT— The  Mobile  and  Ohio 
extends  northward  219  mUes  from  Mo- 
bile to  Columbus,  Mississippi.  From 
^ence  it  is  proposed  to  continue  it  to  a 
pohit  on  the  Memphis  and  Cliarleston 
road,  which  crosses  Northern  Alabama. 

The  Montgomery  and  West  Point  ex- 
tends 88  miles  from  Montomery  to  a 
connectioA  with  the  Qeorgia  Railway 
from  Augusta,  Atlanta,  Columbus,  ko. 
It  is  a  j^urt  of  the  highway  from  the 
Korthern  cities  to  New  Orleans. 

The  Alabama  and  Tennessee  Railroad 
runs  78  miles,  from  Selina  to  Columbi- 
ana. Shelby  Springs  are  near  Colum- 
biana. 

The  Memphis  and  Charleston  extends 
from  Memphis,  on  the  Mississippi  river, 
along  the  lower  line  of  Tennessee  and 
the  upper  line  of  Alabama,  to  Chatta- 
nooga, 810  miles;  thence  by  the  Georgia 
and  Carolina  Rtdlways  to  Atlanta,  Ma- 
con, Augusta,  Savannah,  Charleston, 
&c.,  and,  m  another  direction,  to  Knox- 
ville,  and  thence  to  Virginia.  The  part 
of  the  route  West  from  Tuscumbia,  Al 
abama,  is  just  fiidshed.  Tuscumbia, 
13 


Decatur,  and  Huntsville,  are  among  the 
towns  on  this  road. 

Mobile  is  the  last  changing  place  on 
the  great  mail  route  from  the  Northern 
cities  to  New  Orleans.  (See  route  to 
New  Orleans.)  Steamboats  connect  dai- 
ly with  New  Orleans,  166  miles  west- 
ward. From  St.  Louis  it  is  reached  by 
steamers  on  the  Mississippi  to  New  Or- 
leans. From  Montgomery,  880  miles 
above,  by  steamboats  duly  on  the  Ala- 
bama river.  Distance  of  Mobile  from 
New  York,  1666  miles ;  time,  four  to 
five  days;  fare,  between 40  and  60  dol- 
lars. 

Drom  Montgomery  to  Mobth,  hy  Stecatt' 

boat. 

To  Washington.. IS 

Lowndesport 10   S3 

Vernon »   81 

MUler'sFerry »   40 

Benton U   64 

Selma 28    8S 

Cahawba 16   98 

Portland 28  121 

Bridgeport 17  188 

Canton 4  14S 

Prairie  Bloff 10  182 

Black  Bluff  Landing S4  176 

Bell's  Landing. .20  196 

Claiborne 22  218 

Goeport 7  225 

OUver's  Ferry 8  288 

French's  Landing 9  242 

James  Landing. 6  248 

Tombigbeo  Blver 89  287 

Fort  St  Philip 28  810 

Moaiu 21281 

Fare  $10.00. 

From  Montgomery  to  Mobile  by  Stage. 

ToPintUda 18 

Hickory  Grove U    24 

Bandy  Bidge 5   &• 

Kirkville 6    84 

Greenyille 12    46 

AoUvity 26    72 

Bnmtoom 18   90 

Claiborne 24  114 

Mt.  Pleasant 18  182 

Stockton 85  167 

Blakely. 16  188 

MoBiu 14  197 

Fare  $8.00. 

Reverse  these  tables  for  routes  from 
Mobile  to  Montgomery. 

From  Mobile  to  XTew  Orleans  by  Steami- 

boat. 

To  Cedar  Point,  Ala.. 80 

PortersTlUe. IS   4S 


in 


490 


.ALABAMA. 


Mobile— Montgomery— ToBoaloosa. 


'1/7 


To  PMoagoala,  Miasj 18   66 

Mlasisaippiaty 28    88 

Cat  Island 11    94 

East  Marianne 11  105 

WefltMarianne 6  110 

8t  Joseph's  Island 5  116 

Grand  Island... 4  119 

LakeBorgne 9  128 

FortCoqnlUes 11  189 

Point  anz  Herbes 7  146 

Lakeport  (on  Lake  Pontchartrain)..16  161 

By  Railroad. 

ISvir  Ovumm 5166 

Fare  |6.00. 

Mobile  was  founded  by  the  French, 
about  the  year  1*700,  and  was  ceded  by 
that  nation  to  England  in  1*768.  In 
1780  England  surrendered  it  to  Spain, 
and  on  the  6th  of  April,  1818,  it  was 
made  over  by  the  Spanish  government 
to  the  United  States.  It  was  incorpo- 
rated as  a  city  in  l)e«ember,  1819.  The 
present  popukition  is  about  22,000. 

The  city  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a 
broad  plam,  elevated  16  feet  above  the 
highest  tides,  and  has  a  beautiful  pros- 
pect of  the  bay,  from  which  it  receives 
refreshing  breer.es.  Vessels  havmg  a 
draft  of  more  than  8  feet  of  water  can- 
not come  directly  to  the  city,  but  pass 
up  Spanish  River,  six  miles  round  a 
marshy  island,  into  Mobile  River,  and 
then  cbrop  down  to  the  city.  As  a  cot- 
ton mart,  and  a  place  of  export,  Mobile 
ranks  next  in  importance  to  New  Or- 
leans and  Charleston.  In  1860  the 
tonnage  of  this  port  was  upwards  of 
26,000  tons.  The  city  is  supplied  with 
excellent  water,  brought  in  iron  pipes 
for  a  distance  of  two  miles,  and  thence 
distributed  through  the  city.  This  port 
is  defended  by  Fort  Morgan  (formerly 
Fort  Bower),  situated  on  a  long,  low, 
san^y  point,  at  the  mouth  of  the  bay, 
opposite  to  Dauphin  Island.  A  light- 
house is  built  on  Mobile  Point,  the 
lantern  of  which  is  66  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea. 

A  number  of  sailing  vessels  ply  re- 
gularly between  MobUe  and  New  Or- 
leans, and  places  in  the  Oulf  of  Mexico, 
and  the  principal  cities  on  the  Atlantic 
coast.  Steamboats  also  keep  up  a  daily 
communication  with  New  Orleans,  via 
fiake  Borgne,  and  likewise  with  Mont- 
gomery, continuing  the  route  hence  to 


Charleston,  S.  C,  and  the  East.  The 
Mobile  and  Ohio  Railroad,  a  most  im- 
portant work  for  the  city  of  Mobile  and 
the  States  through  irhich  it  will  pass,  is 
now  under  active  construction,  a  por- 
tion of  which  is  already  opened.  This 
road,  in  connection  with  its  great 
link,  the  Illinois  Central  Rulroad,  irill 
be  one  of  the  greatest  works  of  the 
age,  extending  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico 
to  Lake  Michigan,  and  embracing  nearly 
twelve  degrees  of  latitude.  Bet  Rail- 
ways of  Alabama,  anie. 

Spring  Hill  CoUege  (Roman  Catholic), 
is  located  here. 

BSontgomciry,  the  capital  and  the 
second  city  of  Alabama  in  population 
and  trade,  and  one  of  the  most  prosper- 
ous places  in  the  South,  is  on  the  Ala- 
bama River,  881  miles  from  Mobile  by 
water.  See  Mobile  for  routes  hence  to 
that  city  and  to  New  Orleans.  Mont- 
gomery is  connected  by  railway  with 
the  Georgia  roads,  and  is  upon  the 
Great  Northern  and  Southern  Line  from 
New  York  to  New  Orleans.  Population 
about  8,000. 

From  Montgomery  to  7\tsealooiafAla., 
by  stage. — ^To  Wetumpka,  16;  Kings 
ton,  89;  Maplesville,  61;  Randolph, 
71;  Centreville,  86;  Scottsville,  93; 
Mars,  99 ;  Tuscaloosa,  128. 

TuacalooM  is  upon  the  Black  War- 
rior Kver,  at  the  head  of  steamboat 
navigation,  126  miles  by  plank  road 
from  Montgomery.  It  is  one  of  the 
principal  towns  of  Alabama,  and  was 
once  the  capital.  It  is  the  seat  of  the 
University  of  Alabama,  established  1881. 
The  State  Lunatic  Asylum  and  a  United 
States  Land  Office  are  located  here  also. 
Population  about  4,000. 

For  route  to  Montgomery,  see  Mont- 
gomery, ante. 

From  IStsealoosa  to  Tuseumbia,  Ala.^ 
by  stc^. — ^To  New  Lexington,  24 ;  Eld- 
ridge,  61 ;  Thorn  HiU,  U ;  Russelville, 
108;  Tuteumbia,  111. 

From  Tuscaloosa  to  HuntsviUe,  Ala.^ 
by  stcLge. — ^To  McMath's,  82;  Jones- 
boro',  44 ;  Elyton,  66 ;  Mount  Pinson, 
70;  Blountsville,  96 ;  Oleander,  120; 
Lacy  Springs,  182;  Whitesburg,  189; 
Ifuntsville,  149. 


t.  The 
lost  im« 
bile  and 
pass,  is 
I,  a  por- 


i.  This 
I  great 
Dad,  ffill 
I  of  the 
f  Mexico 
kg  nearly 
See  RaU- 

Jatholic), 

and  the 
jpulation 
.  prosper- 
the  Ala* 
lobile  by 
hence  to 
I.  Mont- 
Kray  with 
ipon  the 
[jine  from 
opulation 

;  Kings 
andolph, 
ille,    93; 

MskWar- 
teamboat 
ink  road 
e  of  the 

and  was 
at  of  the 

ed  1881. 

a  Uidted 

ere  also. 

Mont- 

^'a,  Ala.^ 
[24;  Eld- 
selville, 

|»Ue,  Ala., 

Jones- 

Pinson, 

ler,  120; 

rg,  189; 


MI88IB8XPPI. 


i#i 


Hiatory  and  PhyaiMl  Aapeot. 


I 


I 


MISSISSIPPI. 

Mississippi,  like  Alabama,  was  first  vitd^d  by  Europeans  at  the  time  (about 
1641)  when  the  Spanish  expedition  bore  the  bright  banner  of  De  Soto  through 
all  the  great  belt  of  forest  swamps  which  lies  upon  the  Mexican  Gulf— from  the 
palm-corered  plains  of  Florida  on  the  east,  to  the  far-oflf  floods  of  the  mighty 
«<  Father  of  Waters,"  on  the  west. 

The  enmity  of  the  Indians,  and  other  obstacles,  preyented  any  permanent 
occupation  of  the  new  country  at  this  period.  In  1682,  La  Salle  descended  the 
Mississippi  Biver,  and  visited  the  territory  of  its  present  namesake  State.  Two 
years  aiter,  he  set  out  again  for  the  region,  with  a  resolute  band  of  colonists, 
but  the  venture  failed  before  it  was  fairly  begun,  various  misfortunes  preventing 
his  ever  reaching  his  destination.  IberviUe,  a  Frenchman,  made  the  third 
attempt  at  a  settlement,  but  with  no  better  success  than  his  predecessors  met 
with.  A  beginning  was,  however,  at  length  accomplished,  by  Bienville  and  a 
party  of  Frenchmen.  This  expedition  settled  in  1716  at  Fort  Bosalie,  now  the 
city  of  Natchez.  A  dozen  years  later  (1728)  a  terrible  massacre  of  the  new 
comers  was  made  by  their  jetdous  Indian  neighbors,  which  checked,  but  yet  did 
not  stay,  the  "  course  of  empire."  *'  Manifest  destiny  "  was  the  watchword  of 
America  then,  even  as  it  is  now ;  and  the  whites  '*  still  lived,"  despite  decapita- 
tion. Other  sanguinary  conflicts  with  the  aborigines  took  place  in  1786,  '89, 
and  *62,  with  the  same  final  result — ^the  defeat  and  devastation  of  the  Indiau 
.  teibes,.and  the,  tr|umph  of  the  invading  whites. 

The  territory  fell  into  the  possession  of  the  British  Grown  upon  the  concludon 
of  the  peace  of  Paris,  in  1768.  The  strength  of  the  new  colony  was  augmented 
about  this  period  by  portions  of  the  dispersed  Acadian  communities  of  Nova 
Scotia ;  and  soon  after  a  stream  of  colonists  stole  down  from  the  Kew  England 
territories,  by  the  way  of  the  Mississippi  and  the  Ohio  Rivers.  In  1798  the  colony 
was  organized  as  a  Territory,  Alabama  forming  a  portion  thereof.  The  State 
history  of  Misdssippi  began  December  10,  1817. 

Much  of  the  area  of  Misnssippi  is  occupied  by  swamp  and  marsh  tracts. 
There  is  within  her  territory,  between  the  mouth  of  the  Yazoo  River  and  Memphis  in 
Tennessee,  a  stretch  of  this  description,  covering  an  area  of  nearly  7,000  square 
miles.  It  is  sometimes  a  few  miles  broad,  and  sometimes  not  less  than  a  hun- 
dred. These  low  portions  of  the  State  are  subject  to  inundation  at  the  time  of 
freshets,  and  great  is  the  cost  and  care  to  protect  them,  as  well  as  all  the  lands 
of  a  similar  character  lying  along  the  Mississippi.  Banks,  or  levees,  are  built 
along  the  river  shores  to  restrain  the  unruly  fioods,  but  sometimes  a  breach  or 
crevasse,  as  such  rent  is  called,  occurs,  and  then  woefid  is  the  damage  and  great 
the  risk,  not  only  of  property  but  of  life. 

Where  the  country  is  not  thus  occupied  by  swampy  or  marshy  stretches,  it 
sweeps  away  in  broad  table-lands,  shaped  bito  grand  terraces,  or  steps  descend- 
ing from  the  eastward  to  the  waters  of  the  great  river.  The  steps  are  formed 
by  two  ranges  of  blufEk,  which  sometimes  extend  to  the  river  shores,  and  halt 
abruptly  in  precipices  of  fifty  and  even  a  hundred  feet  perpendicular  height. 
These  bluffs  are  features  of  great  and  novel  attraction  to  the  voyager  on  the 
Mississippi  River. 

The  climate  of  Mississippi  has  the  same  general  characteristics  of  the  other 
Southern  States,  passing  from  the  temperatures  of  the  torrid  zone,  southward,  to 
more  temperate  airs  above — ^unlike  Alabama,  however,  and  the  South-eastern 
States^  of  Oeorgia  and  Carolina,  it  has  no  bold  mountain  lands  within  its 
area.  ^ 

The  dimate  of  Mississippi  curnot  at  present  be  commended  for  salubrity ; 


\: 


llIBfllBBTPPI. 


Blven  and  Ballwmyi. 


thooffh  u  the  manh  lands  become  cleared  and  cultivated,  the  fiital  litlasmaa 
which  at  present  taint  the  air  at  certain  seasons  and  in  pardc^lar  districts,  will 
decrease — ^najr,  perhaps  disappear  entirely;  and  the  dread  caution,  like  that 
OTcr  the  entrance  to  Dante's  wferno^  may  no  more  require  to  be  written  upon 
ainy  part  of  her  flruitfol  domain.  The  winters  here,  and  in  the  neighboring  State 
of  Louisiana,  have  a  temperature  a  few  degrees  lower  than  that  of  the  same  lati- 
tudes near  the  Atlantic.  The  fig  and  the  orance  grow  well  in  the  lower  part  of 
the  State,  and  the  apple  flouriuies  in  the  hi^er  hilly  regions.    Cotton  is  the 

Seat  staple  of  Misdssipi^  the  State  being  the  third  in  the  Union  in  this  product: 
e  qecond  even,  the  amount  of  population  being  the  measure.  Besides  cotton, 
however,  the  varied  soil  yields  great  supplies  of  Indian  com,  tobacco,  hemp, 
flax,  dlk,  and  aU  species  of  grdns  and  grasses,  besides  Uve^ock  of  very  oonsid- 
erable  values^ 

Mississippi  has  no  very  extensive  mineral  products ;  or,  if  she  has,  they  have 
not  as  yet  been  developed.  Some  gold  has  been  foun<j^  but  in  no  important 
'quantity. 

Host  of  the  water-courses  here  are  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi.  They  run, 
chiefly,  in  a  south-west  direction,  following  the  general  slope  of  the  country. 
Some  lesser  waters,  ii|  the  eastern  sections,  find  their  way  to  the  Oulf  of  Mexico, 
as  tributaries  of  the  Pearl  River,  in  the  centre  of  the  State,  and  of  the  Tombig- 
bee  and  Pascagoulaj  in  Eastern  Mississippi  and  Western  Alabama. 


Tbe  TtiMoRivMr  is  a  deep  and  nar- 
row stream,  and  sluggish  in  its  move- 
ments. It  is  neariy  800  miles  in  length, 
exclusive  of  its  branches,  and  is  naviga- 
ble for  steamboats  in  all  its  course,  and 
At  aU  seasons,  from  its  mouth  to  its 
sources.  Its  way  leads  through  great 
alluvial  plains  of  extreme  fertility, 
covered  every  where  by  luxuriant  cot- 
ton fields.  Yicksburg  is  12  miles  below 
the  union  of  the  Yazoo  with  the  Missis- 
[dppi. 

The  TaUahatohie,  the  largest  branch 
of  the  Tazoo,  has  a  length  almost  as 
great  as  that  river,  100  imles  of  which 
may  be  traversed  by  steamers. 

TlM  Big  Blaok  Miwmr  is  some  200 
miles  long.  Its  course  and  destiny  are 
the  same  as  that  of  the  Tazoo,  as  also 
the  character  of  the  country  which  it 
traverses. 

The  Pearl  Bivwr  pursues  a  devious 
course  from  the  north-east  part  of  the 
State,  260  miles,  to  Lake  Bortme,  and 
thence  to  the  Gim  of  Mexico.  Jackson, 
the  capital  of  the  State,  is  upon  the 
Pearl  River,  south-west  of  the  central 
region.  Small  boats  sometimes  ascend 
the  river  as  far  as  this  place,  though 
the  navigation  is  almost  destroyed  by 


the  accumulations  of  sand-bars  and 
drift-wood. 

BAILWATS  IN  MISSISSIPPL 

The  Mobile  and  Ohio  Road  extends, 
first,  along  the  western  edge  of  Alaba- 
ma, and  afterwards  near  the  eastern 
line  of  Mississippi,  219  miles  northward 
from  the  city  of  Mobile,  Alabama,  to 
Columbus,  lussissippi. 

The  Southern  Mississiftpi,  part  of  a 
line  which  will  cross  the  centre  of  the 
State  from  east  to  west,  extends  at  pres- 
ent eastward  from  Jackson,  the  capital 
of  the  State,  about  80  miles  to  Myers- 
ville,  and  westward,  46  miles,  to  Yicks- 
burg, on  the  Mississippi. 

The  Miscdssippi  and  Tennessee  will 
extend  southward  from  Natchez,  9*7 
,milea,  to  Granada,  where  it  will  be  con- 
tinued by  other  routes,  either  completed 
or  in  progress,  to  New  Orleans.  A  part 
of  the  line  only,  from  Natchez  down,  is 
at  present  in  operation. 

The  Mississippi  Central  Road  is  at 
present  completed  from  Holly  Springs, 
in  the  northern  part  of  the  State,  20 
miles,  to  its  junction  with  the  Memphis 
and  Charleston  route. 

Th*  New  Orleaiu,  Jaokion,  end 


A 


LOUXBIANA. 


298 


Towna,  Bontea,  tnd  Waterlng-FlMM  in  AUbtuu— LoniaUoia. 


&rt  of  a 
of  the 

I  at  pres- 
capital 
Myera- 
Vicks- 

iee  will 
|hez,  97 

be  con- 

jmpleted 

Apart 

lown,  is 

ltd  is  at 

Springs, 

ptate,  20 

[emphis 

■ad 


i 


Oraat  Northnii  Hallway,  from  New 
Orleans  to  Jackson,  is  in  operation, 
north-west,  to  the  Mississipid  boundary. 
8m  Railways  of  Louisiana. 

Jaotooa,  the  capital  of  Misdsrippi, 
is  upon  the  Peari  River,  south-west  from 
the  centre  of  the  State.  It  is  connected 
by  railway,  46  miles,  with  Yidcsburg, 
on  the  Missisdppi  lUver,  and  may  be 
thus  reached  from  New  Orleans.  The 
Southern  Mianssipid  road  extends,  at 
present,  14  miles  east  of  Jackson,  to 
Brandon.  It  is  a  chief  point  on  the 
great  railway  route  now  in  progress 
from  New  Orleans  northward.  The 
State  Capitol,  the  Penitentiary,  Lunatic 
Asylum,  and  a  United  States  Land 
Office,  are  here.  Population,  about 
4,000. 

Fhnn  Jaekton  to  Natchez,  IfUa.,  hy 
stage. — ^To  Newtown,  10 ;  Oalhttin,  40 ; 
Hucolm,  76;  Hamburg,  86;  Natchez, 
101. 

J^Vom  Jaekton  to  Woodville,  via  Nat- 
chez and  Bayou  Sara. — To  Natchez  (as 
in  previous  route),  101  miles;  Gold 
Spring,  121 ;  Woodville,  18*7 ;  by  rail- 
road to  Laurel  Hill,  13 ;  Bayou  £fara, 
24;  total,  160  miles. 

iVom  Jackton  to  Granada,  Miu. — ^To 
Canton,  24 ;  Benton,  61 ;  Lexington, 
76;  CarroUton,  106;  Granada,  126. 

JFhmi  Jackson  to  Columbut,  Mies. — 
To  Canton,  24;  Springfield,  42;  Ho- 
pahka,  60 ;  Louisville,  98  ;  Cclwnhus, 
146. 

Cooper's  WeU,  in  Hind  County,  12 
miles  west  of  Jackson,  is  noted  for  the 
mineral  qualities  of  its  waters. 

Natchez,  on  the  Mississippi  River, 
279  miles  above  New  Orleans,  is  the 
most  populous  and  commercial  place  in 


the  State.  It  is  btdlt  upon  a  bhiff,  200 
feet  above  the  water,  overlooking  the 
great  cypress  swamps  of  Lonioana. 
The  lower  part  of  the  town,  where  the 
heavy  shipping  budness  is  done,  is 
oaUed  Natchez-Und«r-the-HilL  In  Belt- 
zertown,  near  Natchez,  there  is  a  re- 
markable group  of  ancient  mounds, 
one  of  which  is  86  feet  high.  Smaller 
remains  of  the  kbid  are  found  yet  near- 
er the  toifn.    Population,  about  7,000. 

ViokalNttg  is  upon  the  Misrissippi, 
400  miles  above  New  Orleans,  and  46 
miles,  by  railway,  from  Jackson,  the  caid- 
tal  of  the  State.  Population,  about  4,000. 

Abardaen,  a  town  of  some  4,000  in- 
habitants, is  upon  the  Tombigbee  River, 
166  miles  north-east  of  Jackson,  28 
north  of  Columbus,  and  640  from  Mo- 
bile, by  water.  Steamboats  jdy  regular- 
ly from  Mobile. 

Ooltunboa,  population  about  4,000, 
is  upon  the  Tombigbee  River,  60  miles 
below  Aberdeen,  and  146  miles  north- 
east of  Jackson.  Bee  Jackson  for  route 
thither.  Regular  steamboat  commuid- 
cation  with  Mobile. 

Holly  Spxinga  is  210  miles  above 
Jackson.  It  is  connected  by  railway 
^orth)  with  the  line  from  Memphis  to 
Chattanooga,  Tennessee.  The  Chal- 
mer*s  Institute  and  St.  Thomas'  Hall 
for  Boys,  the  Franklin  Female  College, 
and  the  Holly  Springs  Female  Institute 
are  here. 

The  vicinage  of  Holly  Springs  is  re- 
markable for  its  natural  beauty  and  its 
salubrious  climate. 

The  Zrfiiidardala  Springs,  sulphur 
and  chalybeate,  are  in  Lauderdale 
County,  in  the  extreme  north-west 
comer  of  the  State. 


LOUISIANA. 

Louisiana  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  States  in  the  Union,  from  the  roman- 
tic incidents  of  its  early  history,  the  peculiar  features  of  its  landscape,  and  its 
unique  social  character  and  life. 

The  traveller,  looking  upon  the  face  of  the  Oreat  River,  will  recall  the  bright 
hopes  of  De  Soto,  when  he,  too,  so  gazed  with  delighted  wonder ;  then  he  will 
muse  upon  that  hapless  destiny  which  gave  the  gallant  explorer  a  grave  beneath 


204 


LOUISIAKA. 


HIatory— Topography— BaUwayi. 


the  Tery  floods  which  he  was  the  first  to  find  and  enter,  with  snch  exultant 
anticipations.  Then  he  will  remember  the  visit  of  La  Balle,  to  the  mouth  of 
the  river,  in  1691 — next,  the  attempted  settlement,  in  1699,  under  the  brave  lead 
of  Iberville ;  then  comes  the  enterprise  of  Crozart,  to  whom  the  country  was 
granted  by  Louis  XIY.  in  1712;  next  comes  its  history  firom  1*7 1*7,  whUe  in  pos- 
session of  the  famous  French  financier  John  Law,  and  his  company  of  rash 
speculators,  with  all  the  incidents  of  the  story  of  the  brilliant  but  fleeting  "Mis- 
sissippi Bubble  ;**  next  the  restoration  of  the  territory  to  the  French  Crown,  its 
transfer  to  Spain  in  1762,  its  retrocesdon  to  France  in  1800,  and  its  final  acqui- 
sition  by  the  United  States  in  1808,  when  this  Oovemment  purchased  it  for 
$11,600,000,  and  the  fhrther  payment  of  certahi  claims  of  American  citizens 
against  the  Government  of  Fnmce.  Of  tne  history  of  the  region  in  its  partici- 
pation in  our  national  trials,  and  especially  of  the  memorable  event  of  the 
battle  of  New  Orleans,  we  shall  speak  by-and-by. 

Louisana  in  no  part  of  its  territory  reaches  a  greater  elevation  than  200  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  Oulf  of  Mexico,  while  very  much  of  the  Southern  region 
is  so  low  that  it  becomes  inundated  at  high  water.  Marshes  extend  from  the 
coast;  then  come  the  low  prairie  lands  which  approach  the  central  parts  of  the 
State ;  and  above,  the  country  grows  brolcen  and  hilly,  west  of  the  basin  of  the 
Misflisrippi.  In  the  extreme  north-west  is  a  marshy  tract  of  60  miles  in  length 
and  6  in  breadth,  full  of  small  lakes,  made  by  the  interlaoings  of  the  arms  of  Bed 
Biver.  It  is  estimated  that  an  area  of  between  8000  and  9000  square  miles,  lying 
respectively  upon  the  Mississippi  and  Bed  rivers,  is  subject  to  inundation  annu- 
•Uy. 

About  three-fifths  of  the  whole  area  of  the  State  is  alluvial  and  diluvial ;  the 
rest  is  occulted  by  the  tertiary  formation,  and  contains  coal  and  iron,  ochre,  salt, 
gypsum  and  marl.  In  the  vicinity  of  Harrisonbtirg,  near  the  north-eastern  line  of 
the  State,  and  among  the  freestone  hills  which  rise  hereabouts  precipitously  to  a 
height  of  80  and  100  feet,  large  quartz  crystals  have  been  found,  and  qjantities 
of  Jasper,  agates,  comeliaiis,  sardonyx,  onyx,  feldspar,  crystdlized  gypsum,  alu- 
mine,  chalcedony,  lava,  meteoric  stones  and  fossils. 

The  exhalations  firom  the  marshes  in  the  long  hot  summers  poison  the  atmos- 
phere, and  make  Louisiana,  in  much  of  its  territory,  dangerous  to  the  acclimated, 
and  quite  unapproachable  to  strangers,  at  the  season  when  the  especial  features 
of  the  landscape  may  be  seen  in  aU  their  greatest  glory. 

Cotton  and  sugar-cane  are  the  great  products  of  this  State.  Of  the  latter 
staple,  it  yielded  m  1860  nine-tenth%  of  the  whole  supply  raised  in  the  United 
States.    Two-tiiirds  of  idl  the  alluvial  land  is  overrun  by  the  sugar-cane. 

The  bays  and  lakes,  formed  by  expanmons  of  the  rivers  in  the  marsh  lands 
near  the  coast,  make  a  marked  feature  in  the  landscape  of  Louisiana,  as  lakes 
Fontchartrain,  Borgne,  Maurepas,  &c.  Some  of  these  waters  we  shall  see  again 
when  we  reach  New  Orleans. 

Besides  the  Mississippi  and  the  Bed  rivers,  of  which  the  reader  will  find  ac- 
counts elsewhere  in  our  volume,  the  streams  in  Louisiana  do  not  oft^er  very  great 
attractions  to  the  traveller. 


Bailwttyik— But  little  need  of  Bul- 
way  communication  has  heretofore  been 
felt  in  Louisiana,  so  great  are  the  facili- 
ties of  travel  by  water ;  though  the  iron 
roads  now  in  progress,  chartered  or 
projected,  will  traverse  the  country  in  all 


directions,  and  connect  it  advantage- 
ouslv  with  the  neighboring  States. 

The  New  Orieans,  Jackson  and  Great 
Northern  Bailway  extends  206  miles 
north  firom  New  Orleans,  through  Jack- 
son, the  Capital  of  Mis^ippi,  to  Oau- 


't^: 


r^-^- 
f 


.t>^:iUU^jUb4M»fr%U'<^.4;«MrilMbM.«<. 


Bnurid.,'iAXuiiluiq  w^ct  of  Congress' mttif  ye^ir  Jfi'iS  .  bj    tf''W;/.Uew4    nuhe  (Urk'.i  QQiC'e  oftfuT'ism'/.tciurtofthi'ti. 


i-»,    *f*ijfc.»i  !.;**:■;/ ■W,i("i'W. 


1  Court  House- 

2Gttii6dntl 

30ldJaa 
\4Ch-lean,x  'JJtJi^Ure 

5  City  A'j.-chan^e 

(i  Orleans  Hotel 
■j  Thttiik  of'Louisiumi 

a  Loin'jri'iina  State Biuik 

.V  CusCont  HoU^e 

lO  Men-hantsEjc.  tiFostOK 

U  If ebrew  Synagogue 


REFERENCES. 

12  Ho*  I  Mmton  die  Santet 

13  Hewlett*  E.vchange 
Ullanterit  Hotel 
15mvBanh 
16Mechanfdi  liotl*  B¥ 
J7Vermiciah  HoWt 
/HSff7ualMK.t:  Hotel 
L't  t,'(ut  Works  tS  omce 
20  MtrcfuintsEjr.CVewj 
'JJ  Canal <t'  Com! Hanks 
21Amer.  ITtea.  XlMJhy'Sif 


QQu4  (jfrhf.  [iisfruz  Coun  of  iht:  to.iUni  hisrmt  ot'i'MiuVUoiim. 


'/■/lUA'  hrtMn  ■i.f'.Tcii'W^TA'iltiemi- 


pi^iV  OF        -nvl 


n 


^ 


^ 


^} 


^^ 


c<S 


^^ 


<m 


^WM'OJMjn,,- 


LOUIBULNA. 


895 


BaUw»7  BontM  to  New  Ori««iii, 


ton,  the  upper  portion  of  the  route  be- 
tnafat  present  travelled  by  stage. 

The  New  Orleans,  Opelousas  and 
Great  Western  line,  crosses  the  low  pen- 
insular part  of  the  State  westward  from 
New  Orleans,  98  miles  to  Bayou  Bosuf. 
This  route  is  to  be  continued  north- 
westward through  the  State  past  Alex- 
andria and  Natchitoches  to  a  junction 
with  other  projected  lines  in  Texas. 

The  Mexican  Oulf  R.  B.  runs  from  New 
Orleans  to  Proctorsville,on  Lake  Borgne. 

The  New  Orleans,  Miueburg  and  mJic 
Pontohartrain,  and  the  New  Orleans  and 
Oarrollton  RaOways,  are  short  routes 
from  New  Orleans. 

The  West  Feliciana  Railway  extends 
S6  ndles  from  Bayou  Sara,  on  the  Mis- 
sissippi, north  to  Woodyille,— to  be  con- 
tinued to  Natches. 

The  Glinton  and  Port  Hudson  Road, 
from  Port  Hudson  on  the  Missisrippi  to 
Clinton,  is  14  miles  in  length. 

ilTcw  Orhan$  from  New  York. 

By  railway,Tia  Philadelphia,  Baltimore, 
Washington,  Richmond,  Kingsville,  on 
the  Columbia  branch  of  the  S.  0.  Ridl- 
war  (or  Charleston,  S.  C.)  Augusta, 
Atlanta,  Georgia,  Montgomery  and  Mo- 
bUe,  Alabama.  (From  Montgomery  by 
steamboat,  rest  of  the  route  Railway.) 
New  Orleans  may  also  be  pleasantly 


reached  from  the  Noithem  cities  by  tho 
Railway  routes  to  Pittsburg  or  to  Cin- 
cinnati, and  thence  down  the  Ohio  and 
the  Mississippi  rivers,  or  to  Saint  Louis 
by  Railways  and  down  the  MissisdppL 
To  go  by  one  route  and  return  by  the 
othen  would  make  a  fine  round  tour  of 
the  Union. 

N««r  OrlMUU,  the  metropolis  of  the 
South-western  States,  is  buUt  within  a 
great  bend  of  the  Misdsdppi  river 
Qh>m  whence  its  name  of  the  Orescent 
City),  94  miles  from  its  debouehure  into 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  It  is  distant  from 
New  Tork  1,668  mOes,  from  Phlladet 
phia  1}676,  Boston  1,887,  Baltimore 
1,478,  WasUngton  City  1,488,  Charles- 
ton, S.  C,  879,  Cincinnati  1,S48,  St. 
Louis  1,201,  Pittsburg  2,026,  Chicago 
1,628,  and  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony 
1,998. 

The  city  is  built  on  land  gently  de- 
scending from  the  river  towards  a 
marshy  ground  in  the  rear,  and  fh>m 
two  to  four  feet  below  the  level  of  the 
river  at  high  water  mark.  It  is  pre- 
vented from  overflowing  the  city  by  aa 
embankment  of  earth,  termed  the  Imtei 
which  extends  from  Fort  Phmuemine, 
48  miles  below  the  city,  to  120  miles 
above  it ;  it  is  16  feet  wide  and  4  feet 
hieh,  and  forms  a  delightful  promenade. 
It  18  accessible  at  all  umes  by  vessels  of 


New  Orleans,  LonMana. 


296 


LOunuAirA. 


N«w  OriMM:  Hotel*— ThMtn*— Market*— Cotton  Tnmm. 


th«  lurgest  deaoriptton  coming  from  the 
ooean,  and  its  adTantagei  of  oommnnl- 
oatlon  with  th«  app«r  eountrj,  »nd  the 
whde  Tallejr  of  tne  MiMtnippi,  are  at 
onoe  itupendoua  and  anriraUed.  It  li 
not  an  exaggeration  toiay  that,  inolud- 
Ing  the  tiibotariee  of  tnii  noble  rlTer, 
New  Orleana  haa  upwardi  of  17,000 
miles  of  internal  naylgation,  jpenetrat' 
ing  the  most  fertile  soih^  and  a  great 
Tarlety  of  climates;  though  at  present 
the  resources  of  this  immense  yalley 
are  only  partially  developed. 

This  oitT  is  the  chief  cotton  mart  of 
the  world.  Not  unfrequently  from  a 
thousand  to  fifteen  hundred  flat«boats 
may  be  seen  lying  at  the  Levee,  that 
have  floated  down  the  stream  hundreds 
of  miles,  with  the  rich  produce  of  the 
interior  country.  Steamboats  of  the 
largest  class  mar  .be  observed  arriving 
and  departing  almost  hourly ;  and,  ex- 
cept in  the  summer  months,  at  its 
wharves  may  be  seen  hundreds  of  ships 
and  other  sailing  craft,  fh)m  all  quarters 
of  the  globe,  landing  the  productions 
of  other  climes,  and  receiving  cargoes 
of  cotton,  sugar,  tobacco,  lumber,  pro* 
visions,  kc.  Indeed,  nothing  can  pre- 
sent a  more  busy,  bustling  scene  than 
exists  here  in  the  loading  and  unloading 
of  vessels  and  steamers,  with  hundreds 
of  drays  transporting  the  various  and 
Immense  products  which  come  hither 
from  the  West. 

New  Orleans  conrists  of  the  city 
proper,  which' is  built  in  the  form  of  a 
parallelogram,  the  suburbs  of  St.  Mary's, 
Annunciation,  and  La  Oourse,  caUed 
fauxbourgs ;  to  which  may  be  added  the 
city  of  La  Fayette,  idthough  under  a  sep- 
arate government.  Below  the  city  are 
the  suburbs  of  Harigney,  Dounois,  and 
Dedouet,  and  in  the  rear  are  Treme 
and  St.  John'Si  The  whole  extent  is 
probably  not  less  than  five  miles,  in  a 
Une  parallel  with  the  river,  and  extend- 
ing perpendiculariy  to  it,  from  a  quar- 
ter to  three-quarters  of  a  mQe,  and  to 
the  Bayou  St.  John  two  miles. 

Botela.— The  Crescent  CSty  is  fiunous 
for  the  extent  and  style  of  its  hotels,  in 
a  land  of  sumptuous  establishments  of 
the  kind. 


The  St.  Charles  is  a  splendid  "insti- 
tution" on  St.  Charles  street.  Destroyed 
by  fire,  it  was  re-built  bv  the  close  of 
1802,  at  a  cost  of  neariy  $600,000.  The 
house  was  leased  at  the  rate  of  $80,000 
per  annum  until  1806,  and  at  $40,000 
since  that  period.  It  has  accommoda* 
tion  for  nearly  1000  guests. 

The  St.  Louis  hotel,  another  snperb 
palatial  establishment,  Is  upon  St. 
Louis  street.  It  holds  the  same  high 
rank  as  the  St.  Charles. 

The  Verandah,  another  first  ckss  ho^ 
tel,  is  a  magnificent  palace-home  for  the 
stranger.  It  is  dtuated  on  Common 
street. 

The  City  Hotel  is  on  Camp  and  Com- 
mon streets. 

Theatres.— New  Orleana  is  as  amply 
supplied  with  public  amusements  as 
with  public  houses.  Both  are  esteemed 
there  as  among  the  first  of  human  con- 
siderations. 

The  St.  Charles  Theatre,  on  St 
Charles  street,  was  built  at  a  cost  of 
$800,000.  It  is  182  feet  in  length  and 
1*70  feet  deep.  The  best  histrionic  tal- 
ent of  the  time  is  displayed  npon  it* 
boards. 

The  Orleans  Theatre. — ^The  represen- 
tations at  this  house  are  in  the  Freach 
language.  It  is  a  very  popukr  resort 
of  the  large  foreign  population  of  tiie 
city. 

The  American  Theatre  is  another  of 
the  leading  dramatic  establishments. 
There  are  still  many  other  minor  the- 
atres, and  {daces  of  amusement,  in  the 
city. 

The  edifices  of  the  City  Bank,  at{ 
Toulouse  street,  of  the  Canal  Bank,  ok.  \ 
Magazine  street,  and  of  the  Bank  of ' 
Louisiana,  are  note-worthy  objects. 

The  Makkbts. — ^The  stranger  here 
will  be  much  interested  by  a  visit  to 
the  markets.  St.  Mary's,  in  the  Second 
District,  the  Washington  Market,  in  the 
Third  District,  and  the  meat  market, 
on  the  Levee,  are  all  extensive  estab- 
lishments. 

Cotton  Prbbbks. — There  are  some  20 
or  more  great  cotton  presses  In  New 
Orleans,  each  occupying  usuaUy  a  whole 
block  to  itself.    They  are  well  worth 


L0UI8UVA. 


«»y 


N«wOriMUM:  Obanh**— Pablio  Ballillafi->I4t«rM7  BMteMiMi— Pvkt. 


retort 
of  the 


lome  20 
New 
h  whole 
worth 


inipeotlon.  A  fine  view  of  the  dty 
in»7  be  had  from  the  lummlt  of  the 
dome,  which  surmoaDtf  the  centre 
building  of  the  edifice  luiown  m  the 
New  Orleena  Cotton  Preae;  160,000 
belM  of  cotton  are.  It  is  Mid,  annuelly 
prened  at  this  laat  mentioned  eetabliah- 
ment. 

Ohwdliei^-The  dty  poweica  many 
elennt  church  edifices. 

Tkt  Churdi  of  8t.  LouU^  opposite 
Jackson  Square,  makes  an  Imposing 
appearance.  The  entrance  is  flanked 
on  either  dde  by  a  lofty  tower.  The 
present  bnildinff  was  erected  in  I860, 
upon  the  rite  of  the  old  church,  which, 
was  pulled  down.  The  Presbyterian 
Church,  opposite  Lafayette  Square ;  the 
Jewish  Synagogue  (formerly  the  Canal 
street  Episcopal  Church) ;  St.  Patrick's 
Church,  on  Camp  street,  and  the  new 
Episcopal  Church  on  Canal  street,  are 
all  fine  structures.  The  spire  of  St. 
Patrick's  is  a  striking  feature  in  the  pic- 
ture of  the  city,  as  seen  from  the  riVer 
approach.  There  are  40,  or  more, 
churches  in  New  Orleans,  about  one- 
third  of  which  are  Roman  Catholic. 
The  most  numerous  of  the  Protestant 
denominations  i»'  the  Episcopal— at 
least  in  church  edifices. 

Th«  Otutom  HouM  is,  after  the  Capitol 
at  Washington,  the  largest  building  in 
the  United  States.  It  coTers  an  area 
of  8*7,888  superficial  feet,  having  a  front 
on  Canal  street  of  884  feet,  on  Custom 
House  street  of  262  feet,  on  the  New 
Levee  of  810  feet,  and  on  the  Old 
Levee  of  297  feet.  Its  height  is  82 
feet.  The  chief  business  apartment  is 
116  long  by  00  broad,  and  has  no  less 
than  60  windows.  There  is,  luckily, 
no  window-tax,  though,  in  the  United 
States.  This  grand  edifice  is  built  of 
granite,  from  the  Quincy  quarries  of 
Massachusetts. 

The  United  Statea  Bratuh  JUifU  is  a 
noble  structure  at  the  comer  of  Espla- 
nade and  New  Levee  streets.  It  is 
three  stories  high,  282  feet  in  length, 
and  108  feet  deep.  It  has,  beddes,  two 
wines,  each  81  feet  long. 

iTu   Munieipai  fftul  is  a  Grecian 
bui'  ding  of  marble.    It  is  at  the  comer 
18* 


of  St.  Charles  sad  ^evia  streets,  oppo> 
site  JLiafryette  Squtf ». 

7%4  04i  JMhme'  HM  k  a  large  edl- 
fice,  oppoaM«  Lafkyette  Square,  on  Carap 
street ;  built,  1669. 

Ike  MerditmU^  JSxehotufe  is  on  lUnral 
near  Canal  street.  1%«  OUp  Pmt  Office 
is  hi  the  Exchange,  also  the  Merchant^ 
Reading  Room. 

Tk»  Btreete  of  New  Orleans  are  wide* 
well  paved,  and  are  resularlyldd  out, 
usually  intersecting  eaon  other  at  right 
angles.  The  broadest  is  Canal  street, 
with  a  width'  of  190|  feet,  with  a  grass 
plot,  26  feet  wide,  extending  in  the 
centre  throuch  its  whole  lenmi.  The 
houses  are  btmt  chiefly  of  brick,  and  are 
usually  five  or  six  stories  high.  The 
private  dwelUngs  In  the  sttburba  are 
many  of  them  very  oharming  placet, 
buried  in  the  grateful  shadow  of  tropi- 
cal leaves— the  magnolia,  lemon,  myrUei 
and  orange-tree. 

JaekMmSguaret  formerly  Place  d*Ar> 
mes,  covers  the  centre  of  the  river- 
fVont  of  the  Old  Town  Plot,  now  the 
first  District  It  Is  a  phuse  of  fkvorite 
resort.  Its  shell-i^rewn  paths,  its  bean- 
tifyd  trees  and  shrobbery,  and  its 
statuary,  are  all  agreeable  pleasures  to 
ei\joy. 

Jj(tfajfetU  Square,  In  the  Second  I^ 
trict,  is  another  elegant  public  park, 
superbly  adorned  with  fine  shade  trees 
and  shrubbery. 

Cofwo  Square  Is  in  the  rear  of  the 
city,  liike  the  other  pubUc  grounds,  it 
is  a  delightfU  place  to  lounge  away  a 
summer  eveniiu;* 

.  Literal^  and  Charitable  Inetitutione. 
— The  Uhivenitjf  of  Lomeiana  is  on 
Common  street,  between  Baronne  and 
St.  Phillipi  streets,  occupying  the  whole 
front  of  we  blodc  It  has  a  prosperous 
Zaw  School  and  tkMedieal  School.  This 
University  was  organised  in  1849.  The 
Medical  College,  which  stands  in  the 
centre  of  the  block,  has  a  fk^ade  of  100 
feet.  This  department  was  established 
in  1886.  It  nas  a  large  Anatomical 
Museum  and  extensive  and  valuable 
collections  of  many  kinds.  The  State 
made  an  appropriation  of  $26,000 
towards   the   purchase  of  appfuratus, 


208 


LOUISIANA. 


N«w  Orleana :  Pabllo  Iiutitntioiis— Cemeteries— Battle  of  Now  Orleans. 


drawings,  plates,  etc.,  illostratiTe  of  the 
Tarious  branches  of  medical  study. 

The  Charity  Hospital  hn  which  the 
medical  students  of  the  University  en- 
joy great  facilities  for  practice)  is  situ- 
ated on  Common  street,  between  St. 
Mary's  and  Gironde  street.  It  is  a 
splendid  edifice,  three  stories  high  and 
2V0  feet  in  length,  surmounted  by  a 
cupola,  and  enclosed  in  grounds  ele- 
gantly embellished. 

Tm  United  States  Naval  Hospital  is 
on  the  opposite  side  of  th«  river,  a  lit- 
tle way  above  Algiers. 

Newspapers.— -Over  20  newspapers 
are  published  in  New  Orleans,  half  of 
which  are  dailies  of  deservedly  high  re- 
pute, at  home  and  abroad.  Several  of 
them  are  printed  in  the  French  lan- 
guage. The  New  Orleans  Picayune  is 
famous  the  world  over.  De  Bow's  Re- 
tieyr,  a  commercial  journal  of  distin- 
guished ability,  is  published  here. 

Water  and  Gas  Works. — ^The  city  is 
supplied  with  water  from  the  river, 
raised  by  steam  to  an  elevated  reservoir, 
and  thence  distributed  through  the 
streets.  Some  six  millions  of  gallons 
are  used  daily.  Oas  was  introduced  in 
1884— water  the  same  year. 

Oemeteriag. — Some  of  these  homes 
of  the  dead  iu  New  Orleans  are  deserv- 
ing of  particular  notice,  both  from  their 
unique  arrangement  and  for  the  peculiar 
modes  of  interment.  Each  is  enclosed 
with  a  brick  wall  of  arched  cavities  (or 
ovens,  as  they  are  called  here),  made 
just  large  enough  to  admit  a  single 
coffin,  and  raised,  tieirupon  tier,  to  a 
height  of  about  twelve  feet,  with  a 
thickness  of  ten.  The  whole  enclosure 
is  divided  into  plots,  with  gravel  paths 
intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles, 
and  is  densely  covered  with  tombs,  built 
wholly  above  ground,  and  from  one  to 
three  stories  high.  This  method  of  se- 
pulture is  adopted  from  necessity,  and 
burial  under  gr<ntnd  is  never  attempted, 
excepting  in  the  Potter's  Field,  where 
the  stranger  without  friends,  and  the 
poor  without  money,  find  an  uncertain 
rest :  the  water  with  which  the  soil  is 
always  saturated,  often  lifting  the  coffin 
and  its  contents  out  of  its  narrow  and 


shallow  cell,  to  rot  with  no  other  cover- 
ing than  the  arch  of  heaven. 

New  Orleans  was  named  in  honor  of 
the  Duke  of  Orleans,  Regent  of  France, 
during  the  minority  of  Louis  XY.  It 
was  the  place  selected  for  the  seat  of 
the  monarchy  meditated  in  the  treason 
of  Aaron  Burr.  Great  was  the  alarm 
of  the  citizens  in  January,  1804,  at  that 
prospective  insurrection. 

^The  Battle  of  Nevr  Orlewu.— 
This  memorable  battle-ground  lies  about 
four  miles  from  the  St.  Charles  Hotel. 
It  is  washed  by  the  waters  of  the  great 
Mississippi,  and  surrounded  by  cypress- 
swamps  and  canetbrakes.  The  action 
took  place  Jatfuary  8th,  1816,  between 
the  British  troops,  under  General  Pak- 
enham,  jxtd  the  Americans,  under 
Jackson,  the  former  suffering  a  signal 
defeat.  Pakenham  was  approaching 
the  city  by  the  way  of  |iakes  Borgne  and 
Pontchartrain,  at  the  time  of  this  terri- 
ble repulse.  His  loss  in  killed  and 
wounded  was  nearly  8,000,  while  the 
Americans  had  but  7  men  killed  and  6 
wounded.  Jackson's  troops  fought  se- 
curely and  effectively  behind  improvised 
entrenchments  of  cotton-bags,  while 
the  enemy  was,  unluckily  for  himself, 
unsheltered  and  defenceless  in\he  open 
marshy  field.  This  engagement  occurred 
after  the  signing  of  the  treaty  of  peace, 
but,  of  covrse,  before  intelligence  of 
that  event  had  reached  the  country. 

"  Next  morning,  at  daylieht,"  says  a 
traveller,  of  his  approach  to  New 
Orleans  from  Mobile,  "we  found  our- 
selves in  Louisiana.  We  had  already 
entered  the  large  lagoon,  called  Lake 
Pontchartrain,  by  a  narrow  passage, 
and,  having  skirted  its  southern  shore, 
had  reached  a  point  six  miles  north  of 
New  Orleans.  Here  we  disembarked, 
and  entered  the  cars  of  a  railway  built 
on  piles,  which  conveyed  us  in  less  than 
an  hour  to  the  great  city,  passing  over 
swamps  in  which  the  tall  cypress,  hung 
with  Spanish  moss,  was  flourishing,  and 
below  it  numerous  shrubs  just  bursting 
into  leaf.  In  many  gardens  of  the 
suburbs,  the.  almond  and  peach  trees 
were  in  full  blossom.  In  some  places 
the  blue-leaved  palmetto,  and  the  leaves 


^ 


\ 


If./ 


-J 


LOUISIANA. 


290 


New  OrloMu:  The  Ylolnage— The  Carnival— The  Creoles. 


\ 


of  a  species  of  iris  {Iri»  euprea),  were 
Ter7  abundant.  We  saw  a  tavern  call- 
ed the  '^Elysian  fields  Coffee  House," 
and  some  others  with  French  inscrip- 
tions. There  were  also  many  houses 
with  porte-ooch^res,  high  roofs,  and  vo- 
lets, and  many  lamps  suspended  from 
ropes  attached  to  tall  posts  on  each 
side  of  the  road,  as  in  the  French  capi- 
tal. We  might,  indeed,  have  fancied 
that  we  were  approaching  Paris,  but  for 
the  negroes  and  mulattoes,  and  the 
large  verandahs  reminding  us -that  the 
windows  required  protection  from  the 
Bun's  heat. 

"  It  was  a  pleasure  to  hear  the 
French  language  spoken,  and  to  hafe 
our  thoughts  recalled  to  the  most  civil- 
ized parts  of  Europe,  by  the  aspect  of 
a  city  forming  so  great  a  contrast  to  the 
innumerable  new  towns  we  had  lately 
beheld." 

As  the  account  is  graphic,  and  the 
estimate,  too,  of  an  accomplished 
■tranger,  we  will  continue  our  extracts 
at  length  from  the  journal  of  our  visi- 
tor just  quoted.*  He  thus  mentions  the 
fetiof 

The  Oamival  of  New  Orleans. — 
From  the  time  we  landed  in  New 
England  to  this  hour,  we  seemed  to  have 
been  in  a  country  where  all,  whether 
rich  or  poor,  were  laboring  from  morn- 
ing till  night,  without  ever  indulging  in 
a  noliday.  I  had  sometimes  thought 
that  the  national  motto  should  be,  "All 
work  and  no  play."  It  was  quite  a  nov- 
elty and  a  refreshing  sight  to  see  a 
whole  population  giving  up  their  minds 
for  a  short  season  to  amusement.  There 
was  a  grand  procession  parading  the 
streets,  almost  every  one  dressed  in  the 
most  grotesque  attire,  troops  of  them 
on  horseback,  some  in  open  carriages, 
with  bands  of  music,  and  in  a  variety 
of  costumes — some  as  Indians,  with 
feathers  in  their  heads,  and  one,  a  jolly 
fat  man,  as  Mardi  Gras  himself.  All 
wore  masks,  and  here  and  there  in  the 
crowd,  or  stationed  in  a  balcony  above, 
we  saw  persons  armed  with  bags  of 
flour,  which  they  showered  down  copi- 

'•  Second  Visit  to  the  United  States,  by  Sir 
Oidurles  LyelL 


ously  on  Any  one  who  seemed  partiou< 
larly  proud  of  his  aitiire.  The  strange- 
ness of  the  scene  was  not  a  little 
heightened  by  the  blending  of  negroes, 
quadroons,  and  mulattoes  in  the  crowd  { 
and  we  were  amused  by  observing  the  In- 
dicrous  surprise,  mixed  with  contempt, 
of  several  unmasked,  stiff,  grave  Anglos 
Americans  from  the  North,  who  were 
witnessing,  for  the  first  time,  what 
seemed  to  them  so  much  mummery  and 
tom-foolery.  One  wagoner,  coming 
out  of  a  cross  street,  in  his  working 
dress,  drove  his  team  of  horses  and  ve- 
hicle, heavily  laden  with  cotton  bales, 
right  through  .the  procession,  oauMng  a 
long  interruption.-  The  crowd  seemed 
determined  to  allow  nothing  to  disturb 
their  good  humor ;  but  although  many 
of  the  wealthy  Protestant  citizens  take 
part  in  the  ceremony,  this  rude  intru- 
sion struck  me  as  a  kind  of  forediadow- 
ing  of  coming  events,  emblematic  of 
the  violent  shock  which  the  invasion  of 
the  Anglo-Americans  is  about  to  ^ve 
to  the  old  rigime  of  Louisiana.  A  gen- 
tleman told  me  that,  being  last  year  in 
Rome,  he  had  not  seen  so  many  masks 
at  the  Carnival  there ;  and,  in  spite  of 
the  increase  of  Protestants,  he  thought 
there  had  been  qtute  as  much  "flour 
and  fun"  this  year  as  usual.  The  pro- 
portion, however,  of  strict  Romanists  is 
not  so  great  as  formerly,  and  to-mor- 
row, they  say,  when  Lent  begins,  there 
will  be  an  end  of  the  trade  m*  masks ; 
yet  the  butchers  will  sell  nearly  as  much 
meat  as  ever.  During  the  Carnival,  the 
greater  part  of  the  French  population 
keep  open  houses,  especially  in  the 
country. 

The  Creoles. — Of  this  class  of  the 
population  of  the  city,  our  traveller 
saye,  apropos  of  a  visit  to  the  French 
Opera: — "The  French  Creole  ladies, 
many  of  them  descended  firom  Norman 
ancestors,  and  of  pure,  unmixed  blood, 
ai*e  very  handsome.  They  were  attired 
in  Parisi&n  fashion,  not  over-dressed, 
usually  not  so  thin  SB  are  the  generality 
of  American  women—their  luxuriant 
hair,  tastefully  arranged,  fastened  with 
ornamental  pins,  and  adorned  with  e 
colored  ribbon  or  a  idngle  flower." 


\ 


800 


LOUISIANA. 


New  Orleans :  The  Creoles  and  Qoadroons— The  Harketa. 


The  word  Greole  in  used  in  Louis- 
iana to  express  a  native-born  Amer- 
ican, whether  black  or  white,  de- 
scended from  old-world  parents,  for 
they  would  not  call  the  abori^al 
Indians  Creoles.  It  never  means  per- 
sons of  mixed  breed ;  and  the  French 
or  Spanish  Creoles  here  would  shrink  as 
much  as  a  New  Englander  from  inters 
marriage  with  one  tainted,  in  the  slight- 
est degree,  with  African  blood.  The 
lre(iaent  alliances  of  the  Creoles,  or 
Loiiisianians,  of  French  extraction,  with 
lawyers  and  merchants  from  the  North- 
em  States,  help  to  cement  the  ties 
which  are  every  day  binding  more  firm- 
ly together  the  distant  parts  of  the 
Union.  Both  races  may  be  improved 
by  such  connection,  for  the  manners  of 
the  oriole  ladies  are,  for  the  most  part, 
more  refined ;  and  fiany  a  Louisianian 
might  justly  have  felt  indignant  if  he 
could  have  overheard  a  conceited  young 
bachelor  from  the  North  telling  me 
*'  how  much  they  were  preferred  by  the 
fidr  sex  to  the  hard-drinking,  gambling, 
horse-racing,  cock-fighting,  and  tobacco- 
chewing  Southerners."  If  the  Creoles 
have  less  depth  of  character,  and  are 
less  striving  and  ambitious  than  the 
New  Englanders,  it  must  be  no  slight 
source  of  happiness  to  the  former  to  be 
so  content  with  present  advantages. 
They  seem  to  feel,  &r  more  than  the 
Anglo-Saxons,  that  if  riches  be  worth  the 
winning,Hhey  are  also  worth  enjoying. 

The  quadroons,  or  the  offspring  of 
the  whites  and  mulattoes,  sat  in  an  upper 
tier  of  boxes  appropriated  to  them. 
When  they  are  rich,  they  hold  a  pecu- 
liar and  very  equivocal  position  in  so- 
ciety. As  children  they  have  often  been 
sent  to  Paris  for  their  education,  and, 
being  as  capable  of  improvement  as  any 
whites,  return  with  refined  manners, 
and  not  unfrequently  with  more  ctdti- 
vated  minds  than  the  minority  of  those 
from  whose  society  they  are  shut  out. 
By  the  tyranny  of  caste,  they  are 
driven,  therefore,  to  form  among  them- 
selves a  select  and  exclusive  set.  Among 
other  stories,  illustrating  their  socifu 
relation  to  the  whites,  we  are  told,  that 
a  young  man  of  the  dominant  race  fell 


in  love  with  a  beautiful  quadroon  girl, 
who  was  so  light  colored  as  to  be 
scarcely  distinguishable  from'  one  ot 
pure  breed.  He  found  that,  in  order 
to  render  the  marriage  legal,  he  was 
required  to  swear  that  he  himself  had 
negro  blood  in  his  veins ;  and,  that  he 
might  conscientiously  take  the  oath,  he 
let  some  of  the  blood  of  his  betrothed 
'into  his  veins  with  a  lancet.  The  ro- 
mance of  this  tale  was,  however,  greatly 
diminished,  although  I  fear  that  my  in- 
clination to  believe  in  its  truth  was 
equally  enhanced,  when  the  additional 
circumstance  was  related,  that  the 
young  lady  was  rich. 
♦Markwte.  One  morning  we  rose 
early  to  vi^t  the  market  of  the  First 
Municipality,  and  found  the  air  on  the 
bank  of  the  Mississippi  filled  with  mist 
as  dense  as  a  London  fog,  but  of  a  pure 
white  instead  of  yellow  color.  Through 
this  atmosphere  the  innumerable  masts 
of  the  ships  alongside  the  wharf  were 
dimly-  seen.  Among  other  fruits  in  the 
market  we  observed  abundance  of  ba- 
nanas, and  good  pine-apples,  for  26  cents 
(or  a  shilling)  each,  from  the  West 
Indies.  There  were  stalls  where  hot 
coffee  was  selling,  in  white  china  cups, 
reminding  us  of  Paris.  Among  other 
articles  exposed  for  sale  were  brooms 
made  of  palmetto  leaves,  and  wagon 
loads  of  the  dried  Spanish  moss,  or  TU- 
latubia.  The  quantity  of  this  plant 
banging  from  the  trees  in  the  swamps 
surrounding  New  Orleans,  and  every 
where  on  the  Delta  of  the  Mississippi, 
might  suffice  to  stuff  all  the  mattresses 
in  the  world.  The  Indians  formerly  used 
it  for  another  purpose — ^to  give  porosity 
or  lightness  to  their  building  materials. 
When  at  Natchez,  Dr.  Dickeson  showed 
me  some  bricks  dug  out  of  an  old  Indian 
mound,  in  which  the  tough  woody  fibre 
of  the  lUlandsia  was  still  preserved. 
When  passing  through  the  stalls,  we 
were  surrounded  by  a  population  of 
negroes,  mulattoes,  and  quadroons, 
some  talking  French,  others  a  patois  of 
Spanish  and  French,  others  a  mixture 
of  French  and  English,  or  English  trans- 
lated from  French,  and  with  the  French 
accent.    They  seemed  very  merry,  es- 


f 


) 


LOUISIANA. 


801 


New  Orleans:  The  Markets— The  Levee— Panorama  of  the  Glty. 


wagon 
orJW- 
plant 
swamps 
every 
sissippi, 
ttresses 
7  used 
yoToeaij 
,terial8. 
showed 
Indian 
y  fibre 
served. 
,11s,  we 
tion  of 
droons, 
,tois  of 
nixture 
trans- 
French 
,  es- 


1 


N 


pedally  those  who  were  jet-black.  Some 
of  the  Creoles  also,  both  of  French  and 
Spanish  extraction,  like  many  natives  of 
the  south  of  Europe,  were  very  dark. 

Amid  this  motley  group,  sprang  from 
so  many  races,  we  encountered  a  young 
man  and  woman,  arm-in-arm,  of  fair 
complexion,  evidently  Anglo-Saxon,  and 
who  looked  as  if  they  had  recently  come 
from  the  North.  The  Indians,  Span- 
iards, and  French  standing  round  them, 
seemed  as  if  placed  there  to  remind  us 
of  the  successive  races  whose  power  in 
Louisiana  had  passed  away,  while  this 
fair  couple  were  the  representatives  of 
a  people,  whose  dominion  carries  the 
Imagination  far  into  the  future.  How- 
ever much  the  moralist  may  satirize  the 
spirit  of  conquest,  or  the  foreigner 
laugh  at  some  of  the  vain-glorious 
boasting  about  "destiny,"  none  can 
doubt  that  from  this  stock  is  to  spring 
the  people  who  will  supersede  every 
other  in  the  northern,  if  not  also  in  the 
southern  continent  of  America — 


.« Immota  manobont^ 


Fata  tlbl 

Bomanos  rerom  domlnos." 

The  ]j«V6a.  Soon  after  our  arrival 
we  walked  to  the  Levee  or  raised  bank 
of  the  Mississippi,  and  ascending  to  the 
top  of  the  high  ro.of  of  a  large  steamer, 
looked  down  upon  the  yellow  muddy 
stream,  not  much  broader  than  the 
Thames  at  London.  At  first  we  were 
disappointed  that  the  ''Father  of  wa- 
ters" did  not  present  a  more  imposing 
aspect ;  but  when  we  had  studied  and 
contemplated  the  Mississippi  for  many 
weeks,  it  left  on  our  mind  an  impression 
of  grandeur  and  vastness,  far  greater 
than  we  had  conceived  before  seeing  it. 

Panorama  of  the  Oity.  We  went 
next,  for  the  sake  of  obtaining  a  general 
view  of  the  city  and  its  environs,  to  the 
top  of  the  cupola  of  the  St.  Oharles 
Hotel.  If  the  traveller  has  expected, 
on  first  obtaining  an  extensive  view  of 
the  environs  of  this  city,  to  see  an  un- 
dghtly  swamp,  with  scarcely  any  objects 
to  relieve  the  monotony  of  the  flat 
plain,  save  the  winding  river  and  a 
few  lakes,  he  will  be  agreeably  disap- 


pointed. He  will  admjire  many  a  villa 
and  garden  in  the  suburbs,  and  in  the 
uncultivated  space  beyond,  the  effect  of 
uneven  and  undulating  ground  is  pro- 
duced by  the  magnificent  growth  of 
cypress  and  other  swamp  timber,  which 
have  converted  what  would  otherwise 
have,  formed  the  lowest  points  in  the 
landscape  into  the  appearance  of  wood- 
ed eminences.  From  the  gallery  of  the 
cupola  we  saw  the  well-proportioned, 
massive  square  tower  of  St.  Patrick's 
Church,  recently  built  for  the  Irish 
Catholics,  the  dome  of  St.  Louis  Hotel, 
and  immediately  below  us  that  fine 
bend  of  the  Mississippi,  where  we  had 
just  counted  the  steamers  at  the  wharf. 
Here,  in  a  convex  curve  of  the  bank, 
there  has  been  a  constant  gain  of  land, 
so  that  in  the  last  twenty-five  years  no 
less  than  three  streets  have  been  erect- 
ed, one  beyond  the  other,  and  all  within 
the  line  of  several  large  posts  of  cedar, 
to  which  boats  were  formerly  attached; 
New  Orleans  was  called  the  Crescent 
City,  because  the  first  Municipality  was 
built  along  this  concave  bend  of  the 
MississippL  The  river  in  this  part  of 
its  course  varies  in  breadth  from  a  mile 
to  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  and  below 
the  city  sweeps  round  a  curve  for  18 
miles,  and  then  returns  again  to  a  point 
within  five  or  eix  miles  of  that  from 
which  it  had  set  out.  Some  engineers 
are  of  opinion  that,  as  the  isthmus  thus 
formed  is  only  occupied  by  a  low  marsh, 
the  current  will  in  time  cut  through  it, 
in  which  case,  the  First  Municipal'^y 
will  be  deserted  by  the  mun  channel. 
Even  should  this  happen,  the  prosperity 
of  a  city,  which  extends  continuously 
for  more  than  six  miles  along  the  river, 
would  not  be  materially  affected,  for  its 
site  has  been  admirably  chosen,  although 
originally  determined,  in  some  degree, 
by  chance.  The  French  began  their 
settlements  on  Lake  Pontchartrain,  be- 
cause they  found  there  an  easy  com- 
munication with  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 
But  they  fixed  the  site  of  their  town  on 
that  part  of  the  great  river  which  was 
nearest  to  the  lagoon,  so  as  to  com- 
mand, by  this  means,  the  navigation  of 
the  interior  country. 


I 


'» 

80^ 


LOUISIANA. 


New  Orioans:  Ptoe  Astolne'a  Date  Palm— Baton  Bouge— The  MisBLufppL 


Fwe  Antoine'B  X>«te  Palm.  Walk- 
ing through  one  of  the  streets  of  New 
Oneansi  near  the  river,  immediately 
north  of  the  Catholic  Cathedral,  we 
were  surprised  to  see  a  fine  date  palm, 
80  feet  high,  growing  in  the  open  air. 
The  tree  is  seventy  or  eighty  years  old, 
for  Fdre  Antoine,  a  Roman  Catholic 
Prie9t,  who  died  about  twenty  years 
ago,  at  the  age  of  eighty,  told  Mr.  Brin- 
gier  that  he  planted  it  himself  when  ho 
was'  young.  In  his  will  he  provided 
that  they  who  succeeded  to  this  lot  of 
ground  should  forfeit  it  if  they  cut  down 
the  palm.  Wishing  to  know  something 
of  P^re  Antoine's  hbtory,  we  asked  a 
Catholic  Creole,  who  had  a  great  vencr- 
.  ation  for  him,  when  he  died.  He  said 
it  could  never  be  ascertained,  because, 
a'^r  he  became  very  emaciated,  he 
walked  the  streets  like  4  mummy,  and 
gradually  dried  up,  ceasing  at  last  to 
move ;  but  his  flesh  never  decayed,  or 
emitted  any  disagreeable  odor. 

If  the  people  here  wish  to  adorn  their 
metropolis  with  a  striking  ornament, 
such  as  the  northern  cities  can  never 
emulate,  let  them  plant  in  one  of  their 
public  squares  an  avenue  of  these  date 
palms. 

Baton  Booge,  the  Capital  of  Louis- 
ianii,  ie  upon  the  Mississippi,  129  miles 
above  New  Orleans.  It  is  built  upon 
the  first  of  the  famous  bluffs  of  the 
Great  River  seen  in  ascending  its  waters. 
It  is  thought  to  be  one  of  the  most 
healthy  places  in  this  part  of  the  conn- 
try.  Besides  the  State  Capital,  the  city 
contains  a  College  and  a  United  States 
Arsenal  and  Barracks.  The  name  of 
Baton  Rouge  is  said  to  have  come  thus : 
When  the  place  was  first  settled,  there 
was  growing  on  the  spot  a  cypress  (a 
tree  of  a  reddish  bark)  of  immense  size 
and  great  height,  denuded  of  branches. 
One  of  the  settlers  playAiUy  remarked 
that  it  would  make  a  handsome  cane. 
From  this  small  jest  grew  Baton  Rouge 
(red  cane). 

The  Home  of  Zaohary  Taylor. 
Baton  Rouge  is  interasting  as  having 
been  the  home  of  the  military  hero, 
and  President  of  the  United  States, 
General  Taylor. 


THE  MieSISSIPFI. 

This  mighty  river  was  discovered  in 
16*72,  yet  its  true  source  was  not  fully  de< 
termined  until  its  exploration  by  School- 
craft, who,  in  1882,  found  that  it  took 
its  rise  in  the  small  lake  called  Itasca, 
situated  in4'7'*  10'  N.  lat.,  and  94°  64'  W. 
long,  from  Greenwich.  This  lake,  called 
by  the  French  Lae  la  Biche,  is  a  beau- 
tiful sheet  of  water,  of  an  irregular 
shape,  about  eight  miles  in  length,  situ- 
ated among  hills  covered  with  pine  for- 
ests, and  fed  chiefly  by  springs.  It  is 
elevated  above  1,600  feet  above  the 
ocean,  and  is  at  a  distance  of  more  than 
8,000  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

The  rivet  drains  an  extent  of  terri- 
tory which,  for  fertility  and  vastness,  is 
unequalled  upon,  the  globe.  This  terri- 
tory, termed,  the  "  Mississippi  Valley," 
extends  from  the  sources  of  the  Missis- 
sippi in  the  north,  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexi- 
co in  the  south,  and  from  the  Alleghany 
mountains  on  the  east  to  the  Rocky 
mountains  on  the  west.  Or,  to  give  its 
outline  more  definitely,  we  will  take  a 
position  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  where 
it  empties  its  accumulated  waters,  and 
run  a  line  north-westward  to  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  from  whence  issue  the  sour- 
ces of  the  Arkansas,  Platte,  and  other 
smaller  streams ;  from  this  point,  along 
the  Rocky  Mountdns,  to  the  sources  of 
the  Yellowstone  and  Missouri  rivers; 
around  the  northern  sources  of  the  lat- 
ter river  to  the  head-quarters  of  Red 
River,  a  branch  of  the  Assinoboin; 
around  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi 
proper,  to  the  head-quarters  of  the  Wis- 
consin and  Illinois  rivers ;  between  the 
confluents  of  the  lakes,  and  those  of  the 
Ohio,  to  the  extreme  source  of  the  Al- 
legany river,  along  the  dividing  line 
between  the  sources  of  streams  flowing 
into  the  Ohio  river,  and  those  flowing 
towards  the  Atlantic ;  between  the  con- 
fluents of  the  Tennessee,  and  those 
streams  emptying  into  Mobile  bay;  be- 
tween the  sources  discharged  into  the 
Mississippi,  and  those  into  the  Tombig- 
by  and  Pearl  rivers ;  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Mississippi,  and  from  its  mouth,  to 
the  outlet  of  the  AtchafaUya.    The 


80i 


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M 
LOUI0UVA  AHD  TBI  vMsutt  OF  1H1  imtnam. 

Tk«  lUalHippl  BlTW. 


whole  preMDting  an  outliM  of  mora 
than  6,000  milei,  or  an  an*  o "  about 
1.210,000  squaro  miles.  The  Missiaeip- 
pi  river  is  naTinble  for  eti^mboatii, 
with  but  partial  interruption,  aa  fkr 
north  aa  the  Falla  of  8t.  Aathony,  a 
distance  of  2,087  milea;  its  course, 
however,  is  extramely  crooked,  and  not 
unfVcquently  a  bend  occurs  from  20  to 
80  miles  round,  while  the  distance 
across  is  not  mora  than  a  mile  or  two. 
In  some  instances,  however,  these  dis- 
tances have  been  shortened,  by  what  la 
termed  "  cut-offs,**  which  ara  made  by 
opening  a  narrow  channel  across  the 
neck  of  a  bend,  when,  on  admitting  the 
water,  the  currant,  running  with  sueh 
velocity,  soon  forces,  a  channel  both 
wide  and  deep  enough  for  the  largest 
steamboats  to  go  through.  The  navi- 
gation is  frequently  rendered  danger- 
ous, owing  to  the  mighty  volume  of 
water  washing  away  from  some  project- 
ing point  krge  masses  of  earth,  with 
its  huge  trees,  which  are  carried  down 
the  stream.  Others,  again,  are  often 
imbedded  in  the  ipud,  with  their  tops 
rising  above  the  water,  and  not  unusu- 
ally causing  the  destruction  of  many  a 
fine  craft.  These  are  called,  in  the 
phrase  of  the  oountir,  "snags*'  and 
"sawyers.**  The  vhirU,  or  «ddie$, 
caused  by  the  striking  peculiarities  of 
the  river  in  the  uniformitv  of  its  mean- 
ders, are  termed  "  points'* and  "bends,** 
which  have  the  precision,  in  many  in- 
stances, as  though  they  had  been  struck 
by  the  sweep  of  a  compass.  These  are 
so  regular,  that  the  flat-boatmen  fre- 
quently calculate  distances  by  them; 
instead  of  the  number  of  miles,  they  es- 
timate their  progress  by  the  number  of 
bends  they  have  passed. 

A  short  distance  from  its  souree,  the 
Mississippi  becomes  a  tolerably  sized 
stream ;  below  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony 
it  is  half  a  mile  wide,  and  below  the  Des 
Moines  rapids  it  assumes  a  medial  width 
and  character  to  the  mouth  of  the  Mis- 
souri. About  1 6  miles  below  the  mouth 
of  the  St.  Croix  river,  the  Mismssippi 
expands  into  a  beautiftil  sheet  of  water, 
called  JLake  Pepin,  which  is  24  miles 
long,  and  from  two  to  four  milea  broad. 


The  isUnds,  which  ara  numeroua,  tM 
nsany  of  them  krge,  have,  during  tht 
atsmmer  season,  an  aspect  of  great 
beauty,  possessing  a  grandeur  of  ven- 
tation  wnich  contributes  much  to  tm 
magnifloenee  of  the  river.  The  num^ 
ous  saad4)an  ara  Uie  resort,  during  Um 
season,  of  innumerable  swans,  geeaa, 
and  water  fowl.    The  Upper  Mississip* 

8i  is  a  beautiftil  river,  mora  so  than  ws 
)hio;  its  oorrant  hi  mora  gentle,  Us 
water  clearer,  and  it  is  a  third  wider. 
In  general  it  is  a  mile  wide,  vet  for 
some  distance  befora  commingling  ita 
waters  with  the  Missouri  it  has  a  mudi 
graater  width.  At  the  Junction  of  th« 
two  streams  it  is  a  mile  and  a  half  wide. 
The  united  straam,  flowing  from  theooe 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  has  an  aver* 
age  width  of  little  mora  than  thrae 
quartera  of  a  mile.  On  its  uniting  wiU 
the  Missouri  it  loses  its  distinctive  ohal^ 
acter ;  it  is  no  longer  the.  gentle,  plaeid 
straam,  with  smooth  shoras  and  clean 
sand-ban,  but  has  a  ftirious  and  boUiQf 
current,  a  turbid  and  dangerous  mass 
of  waters,  with  jagged  and  dilapidate^ 
shores.  ,Its  character  of  calm  magnUI- 
cence,  iliat  so  delighted  the  eye  above, 
is  seen  no  mora. 

A  little  below  89**,  on  the  west  side,' 
comes  in  the  mighty  Missouri,  which, 
being  longer,  and  carrying  a  greater 
body  of  water  than  the  MiMissippi,  and 
imparting  its  own  character  to  the  uni- 
ted stream  below,  some  have  thought, 
ought  to  have  given  its  name  to  the 
river  fiom  the  junction.  Between  Sft* 
and  87°,  on  the  east  ride,  comes  in  the 
magnificent  Ohio,  called  by  the  French, 
on  Its  first  discovery.  La  Belle  Riviere; 
for  a  hundred  miles  above  the  junction 
it  is  as  wide  as  the  parent  stream. 

"  No  person  who  descends  the  Missis^ 
sippi  river  for  the  first  time,  receives 
clear  and  adequate  Ideas  of  its  gran- 
deur, and  the  amount  of  water  it  car- 
ries. If  it  be  in  the  spring  of  the  year, 
when  the  river,  below  the  mouth  of  this 
Ohio,  is  generally  over  its  banks,  al- 
liiough  the  sheet  of  water  that  is  mak- 
ing its  way  to  the  Gulf  is,  perhaps,  80 
miles  wide,  yet,  finding  its  way  througji 
deep  forests  and  swamps,  that  concMl 


^"  ftf'"; 


^i'- 


¥ 


304 


THB  TALLET  OF  THB  MISSISSIPPI. 


The  Misslflalppi  Blver— Distances. 


1/ 


■i. 


?■,- 


all  from  the  eye,  no  expanse  of  water 
Is  seen  but  the  width  that  is  curved  out 
between  the  outline  of  woods  on  either 
bank,  and  it  seldom  exceeds,  and  often- 
er  faUs  short  of  a  mile.  But  when  he 
sees,  in  descending  from  the  Falls  of  St. 
Anthony,  that  it  swallows  up  one  river 
after  another,  with  mouths  as  wide  as 
Itself,  without  affecting  its  width  at  all ; 
when  he  sees  It  receivmg,  in  succession, 
the  mighty  Missouri,  the  broad  Ohio, 
St.  Francis,  White,  Arkansas,  and  Red 
Rivers,  all  of  them  of  great  depth, 
length,  and  volume  of  water ;  when  he 
sees  this  mighty  river  absorbing  them 
all,  and  retaining  a  volume  apparently 
imohanged,  he  begins  to  estimate  right* 
ly  the  increasing  depths  of  current  that 
must  roll  on  in  Its  deep  channel  to  the 
sea.  Carried  out  of  the  Balize,  and 
Bailing  with  a  good  breeze  for  hours,  he 
sees  nothing  on  any  side  but  the  white 
and  turbid  waters  of  the  Mississippi, 
long  after  he  is  out  of  sight  of  land.'^ 


TaBLB  or  THB  PLAOBS  OK  TBI  MISSISSIPPI 
BlVBR,  WITH  THBIB  IMTBBUBDIATB  AND 
GBNBBAL  DISTANOKS : 

DtBtaneea  from  the  Falls  of  8t.  An- 
thony to  8t.  Louia. . 

To  Fort  Snelline,  Mln. )  » 

Bt  Peter's  Biver,     J  ' 

Bt.Paul 8  12 

Lake  Pepin,  and )                         aa  tq 

Maiden's  Book,    f ^  '" 

Gliippewa  BiTor S5  97 

La  Crosse 89  186 

BootBiver 6  191 

BadAxoBiver 20  211 

Upper  Iowa  Biver 9  220 

Prairie  da  Chien 66  276 

FortCrawfbrd 2  278 

Wisconsin  Biver 2  280 

Prairie  la  Port 20  800 

Cassville 10  810 

Peru 20  880 

DcBUOUK 8  888 

Fever  Biver 17  865 

Oalkna,  Ill.t7 miles    (, 
np  Fever  Biver.       ) 

Belleview,  Iowa 7  802 

Savannah,  111 19  881 

Charleston,  Iowa .    2  888 

Lyons,  Iowa 16  898 

New  York,  Iowa 6  408 

Camanohe,  Iowa 7  410 

Albany,Ili 8  418 

Parkhnrst,  Iowa 19  487 

Davenport,  Iowa,  and  )                   -ta  aaa 

Bockhland,                f ***  *** 

filoomlnKton,  Iowa 81  471 

NewBoBton,IU 86  497 


Tolowa  Biver 1  498 

-     Oquawke,  111 20  618 

BvBuneTOM,  lo 16  688 

Bknnk  Biver,  lo 7  640 

Madison,  lo ;.. 16  666 

Montrose,  lo.,  and  )  in  nut 

NArvoo,IlL  f 10  6«« 

Keoknck 12  678 

Des  Moines  Biver,  and )  ^  Koa 

Warsaw.nL  f *  '** 

Tnlly,Mo 18  600 

LaOrange,Mo 8  60S 

QainoT,IU 12  620 

MSHonCl^,Mo 8  628 

Hannibal,Mo 11  689 

Loni8iana,Mo 27  666 

Clarksville,  Mo 18  6T9 

Hambnrfc  III 18  692 

WestportMo 14  706 

GileadjIU 16  721 

Bailev^sLandinff,Mo 18  784 

nUnols  Biver,  lU 16  749 

Grafton,  lU 2  761 

Alton,  111 18  769 

Mlssoari  Biver,  Mo 6  774 

8T.Lotn8,Mo 18  792 


DUtanees  from  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  to 

and  Mouth  of  Ohio  River, 

ToCahokia,m 

Carondalet,  or  Tide ) 

Ponohe,Mo.        f 

Jefferson  Barracks,  Mo 

Harrison,  111 

Heroulaneum,  Mo 

Belma 

Fort  Ghartres  Island 

St  Genevieve,  Mo 

Kaskaskia  Biver,  111 

^Chester,  111 ^ 

Lacoarse's  Island 

Devil's  Bake-oven,  and ) 
Grand  Tower,  f "  *  *  * 

Bainbridge,  Mo 

Devil's  Idand 

Cape  Girardien,  Mo 

Commerce 

Dog-tooth  Island 

Elk  Island 

Caibo,  UL,  and  Moma    ) 
or  Ohio  Bitbb,  f  * ' 


Cairo^ 


2      9 
20     29 


81 
86 


16  60 

11  61 
14  76 

1  76 

14  90 

16  106 

17  122 
8  180 
6  186 

12  148 
11  169 

8  167 

8  175 


Distances  from  the  Mouth  of  the  Ohio 

Kiver  to  New  Orleans. 

To  Island  No.  1 6 

Colambns,Kv 12  18 

Wolf '8  IslancC  or  No.  6 1  19 

Hickman,  Ky 18  87 

New  Madrid,  Mo 42  79 

Point  Pleasant.  Mo 7  86 

Little  Prairie,  Mo 27  118 

Needham's  Island,  and  Gnt-off. ...  26  188 

Bearfleld  Landing,  Ark 8  141 

AshportiTenn 6  146 

Osceola,  Ark 12  168 

PlumPoint 8  161 

1st  Chickasaw  Blnff 6  166 

Fulton,Tenn 2  168 

KIS-SbW*} ^«"'' 


X 


1  498 

20  618 

IS  688 

T  640 

16  66« 

10  6M 

13  678 

4  668 

18  800 

8  608 

IS  690 

8  628 

»••••••  xX  Doll 

87  668 

18  6T9 

18  698 

14  700 

18  721 

18  784 

16  74» 

• •    8  761 

18  769 

6  774 

18  798 

Mo.,  to  CairOf 
River. 

•  ••••••     o 

•  ••••••      4  • 

8  9 

80  89 

8  81 

4  85 

..  16  60 

..  11  61 

...  14  75 

.i  1  76 

...  14  90 

..  15  106 

..  17  188 

...  8  180 

..  6  186 

...  18  148 

..  11  160 

...  8  167 

..  8  175 
the  Ohio 


..  « 

..  12 
..  1 
..  18 
..  48 
7 


18 
19 
87 
79 

86 


...  27  118 

...26  188 

...  8  141 

...  6  146 

...  12  168 

...  8  161 

...  6  160 

...  2  168 

...  10  178 


t    i 


II 


m 


?:«■ 


^ 


:^ 


>  « !5 


.t 


■  > 


h 


THB  VALLEY  OF  THB  OHIO. 


805 


The  Ohio  Blver. 


ToSdChlokanwBlaff IT  195 

OreenookfArk .80  220 

Wolf  Biver,  Tenn. )                      on  qm 

'     MKiiPHi8,Tenn.       f ^  *** 

NbrfolkTMlss 10  365 

Commerce,  MtM 17  S7S 

Pe7toii,Mi88 81  806 

8t  Francis  Blver,  and  )               <«  ma 

Sterling,  Ark.                 f ^^  *" 

Helena,ATk 10  820 

Yazoo  Pass,  or  Baron, )               ««  asut 

andDelSLMlM          f ^^  ^^ 

Horse-shoe  Bend 8  844 

Montgomery's  Pt,  Ark. )               no  ana 

Victoria,  Miss.               f *  *" 

White  Slrer,  Ark 4  406 

Arkansas  Blrer,  i                         .«  ^oa 

Napoleon,  Ark.     j " 

BoUvar  Landing 18  485 

Columbia,  Ark 68  488 

PolntChlcot 4  49S 

Greenville,  Miss 4  496 

Grand  Lake  Landing,  Ark 40  686 

Princeton,  Miss 6  541 

Bnnohes  Bend  and  Gut-olf 10  651 

Lake  Providence,  La 19  670 

Tompklnsvllle,  La 15  685 

Campbellsville,  La 16  601 

MilliklnsvUle,  La 10  611 

Yasoo  Blver,  Miss.,  and  )                 «  <tia 

8parta,La.                      f ^  619 

Walnnt  Hills.  Miss 10  629 

ViOKBBune,  Miss 2  681 

Warronton,  Miss       10  641 

Palmyra  Sett,  Miss 15  666 

Carthiwe  Landing,  La 4  660 

Point  Pleasant,  La 10  670 

BlgBlack  Biver 14  684 

Grand  Golf,  Miss 2  686 

St  Joseph's  La.,  and  )                   ia  aui 

Bminsburg,  Miss.       f lOWHJ 

Bodnejr,  Bliss 10  706 

Natohbz,  Miss 41  747 

Ellis  Cliff,  Miss 18  766 

Homochitto  Biver,  Miss 26  791 

Fort  Adams 10  801 

Bed  Biver  IsUmd,  and  Gut-off. ...  11  812 

Bacconrci  Ont-off  and  Bend 10  822 

Bayou  Sara,  St  Franolsvillo,  t      »a  am 

and  Pt  Coupee,  La.          'j-..  80  862 

WaterlocLa 6  858 

Pt  Hudson,  La 6  868 

Bator  Bouas,  La 26  888 

Plaquemine,  La 28  911 

Bayou  la  Fourche,  and  I                ai  imk 

DonaldsonviUe,  Lai        f 84  945 

Jefferson  College 16  961 

Bonnet  Qnarre  Oh 24  985 

Bed  Church,  La 16  1001 

Carrolton,  La 19  1020 

Lafoyette,  La 41024 

Nnw  Obuamb,  L* 2  1026 

'  THE  OHIO  BIVEB 

Is  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Alle- 
ghany and  Monongahela,  the  former 
being  navigable  for  keel-boats  as  far  as 

Oleau,  in  the  State  of  New  Tork,  a  dis- 


tance of  about  260  miles ;  the  latter  is 
navigable  for  steamboats  to  Browns- 
viUe,  60  miles,  and  by  keel-boats  up- 
wards of  176  miles.  At  Pittsburg 
commences  the  Ohio,  and  after  running 
a  course  of  about  a  thousand  miles, 
unites  its  waters  with  those  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi. No  other  river  of  the  same 
length  has  such  a  oniform,  smooth,  and 
placid  current.  Its  arerage  width  is 
about  2,400  feet,  and  the  descent,  in  its 
whole  course,  is  about  400  feet.  At 
Pittsburg  it  is  elevated  about  1,160  feet 
above  the  ocean.  It  has  no  faU,  except 
a  rocky  rapid  of  22^  feet  descent  at 
LouisvUle,  around  which  is  a  canal  2^ 
miles  long,  with  locks  sufBciently  capa- 
cious to  admit  large  steamboats,  though 
not  of  the  largest  class.  During  huf 
the  year  this  river  has  a  depth  of  water 
allowing  of  navigation  by  steamboats  of 
the  first  class  through  its  whole  course. 
It  is,  however,  subject  to  extreme  ele- 
vations and  depressions.  The  average 
range  between  high  and  low  water  Is 
probably  60  feet.  Its  lowest  stage  is 
in  September,  and  its  highest  in  March. 
It  has  been  known  to  rise  12  feet  in  a 
night.  Various  estimates  have  been 
made  of  the  rapidity  of  its  current,  but 
owing  to  its  continually  varying,  it 
would  be  difficult  to  assign  any  very  ex- 
act estimate.  It  has  been  found,  how- 
ever, according  to  the  Cerent  stages 
of  the  water,  to  vary  between  one  and 
three  miles;  in  its  lowest,  however, 
which  is  in  the  autumn,  a  floating  sub- 
stance would  probably  not  advance  a 
mile  an  hour. 

Between  Pittsburg  and  its  mouth  it  is 
diversified  by  many  considerable  iiri- 
ands,  some  of  which  are  of  exquisite 
beauty ;  besides  a  number  of  tow-heads 
and  sand-bars,  which  in  low  stages  of 
the  water  greatly  impede  the  naviga- 
tion. The  passages  between  some  of 
the  islands  and  the  sand-bars  at  their 
head,  are  among  the  difficulties  of  the 
navigation  of  the  Ohio. 

In  the  infancy  of  the  country,  every 
species  of  water  craft  was  employed  in 
navigating  this  river,  some  of  which 
were  of  the  moat  whimsical  and  amusing 
description.     The  barge,  the  keel-boat, 


;i!i 


\ 


300 


THB  VALLET  OF  THE  OHIO. 


Th«  Ohio— DlsUnces. 


4he  Kentucky-flat  or  family-boat,  the 
pirogue,  ferry-boats,  gondolas,  skiffs, 
dug-outs,  and  mknj  others,  formerly 
floated  in  great  numbers  down  the  cur- 
rents of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Rivers 
to  their  points  of  destination,  at  dis- 
tances sometimes  of  three  tiiousand 
miles. 

*'  Whoever  has  descended  this  noble 
river  in  the  spring,  when  its  banks  are 
full,  and  the  beautiful  red-bud  and  Cor- 
nua  Florida  deck  the  declivities  of  the 
bluffs,  which  sometimes  rise  800  feet  in 
height,  impend  over  the  river,  and  cast 
their  gran'^.  shadows  into  the  transpa- 
rent waters,  and  are  seen  at  intervals  in 
its  luxuriant  bottoms,  while  the  tower- 
ing sycamore  throws  its  venerable  and 
mi^estic  arms,  decked  with  rich  foliage, 
over  the  other  trees — ^will  readily  ac- 
knowledge the  appropriateness  of  the 
French  name, '  La  Belle  Rivitre.^ " 

Table  or  placbs  on  thb  Ohio,  tboh  Pitts- 

BCBG  to  CiNOIMNATI,  WITH  THUB  IMTBB- 
HBDIATB  AMD  OBMBBAb  DI8TA1ICIS  : 


To  Middletown,  Ps. U 

Eoonom]r,Pa 8 

Freedom,Pa 6 

Beaver,  Pa 6 

Georgetown,  Pa. 14 

Liverpool,  Ohio 4 

WellsviUe,  Ohio 4 

BtenbenTille,  Ohio. 19 

Welhburg,  Va T 

Warrenton,  Ohio 7 

Martinsville,  Ohio. '  8 

"Wheblimo,  Va.    i  1 

Bridgeport,  Ohio  f 

Ellzabetbtown,  Va.        ) 

Big  Grave  Greek,  Ya.    f 

17ew  MartinsvUle,  Ya. 10 

BtatervlUe,  Va. 29 

Newport,  Ohio 12 

Marietta,  and    i  -lo 

Pt  Harmer,0.    f 

Yienna,Va. 6 

Parkersbniv,  Ya. )  a 

BelpKsOhfo        f • " 

BlennerhasaeVs  Island S 

Hockingsport,  Ohio. U 

BeUvllle.Va. 4 

Marraysvllle, Va.... 6 

Shade  Biver,  Ohio. 1 

Bavenswood,  Va It 

LetarUviUe,  Ohio. 22 

Pomeroy. 14 

GoalporL  Ohio  I  i 

Sheffield,  Ohio  f 

Point  Pleasant  Va.  )  -la 

Gt.  Kenawha  Biver,  Ya.  J 

QaU4K>Ua»0. 4 


19 
SB 
80 
44 

48 
60 
Tl 
T8 
85 
98 

94 

18   lOT 

IIT 
140 
168 

176 

182 

188 

190 
201 
206 
210 
211 
232 
244 
268 

269 

271 
»5 


To  MiUersport,  O. 24  299 

Gnvanaotte,  Va.  )  la  ma 

Pr6ctor»ville,0.  f ^'  "" 

Bnrlington,  0 8  820 

Big  Bandy  Biver,  Va. »  a  shu 

CiStlettsbnrg,  Va.       f *  *^ 

Hanging  Book,  0 18  887 


Greennpebnrg,  Ky 6 

Wheelenburg,  0 8 

POBTBHOnTH,  0.    i  19 

Scioto  Elver,  0.    f " 

BockviUe,  0 16 

Vancebni^,  Ky. 8 

Borne,  O 7 

Concord,  Ky 6 

Manchester,  0 7 

Matsville,  Ky. )  <« 

Aberdeeo,0.       f " 

Charleston,  Ky. 7 

JBipley,  0 2 

Higglnsport,  0 7 

Augusta,  Ky 4 

Mechanlcsburg;  Ky. 7 

NeviUe,0 8 

Moscow. 4 

Pt  Pleasant,  0.1  ^ 

Belmont,Ky>       J * 

New  Blchmond 6 

Little  Miami  Biver,  O. 14 

Columbia,            > 
Jamestown,  Ky.  j 

GlROIRHATI,  O.  ) 

Newport  dc  Covington,  Ky. ) 


848 
861 

803 

879 
8S1 
889 
896 
403 

414 

421 
428 
480 
484 
441 
444 
448 

462 

467 
471 

1    472 
6    477 


16 

4  SO 

9  23 

8  26 

2  27 

6  88 

8  86 

12  48 


JHetanne  from  Cincinnati  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Ohio. 

To  NorthBend,0 

Great  Miami  Elver,  O 

Lawrence,  la. 

Petersburg,  Ky 

Aurora,  la. 

Belleviow,  Ky 

EiringSun,  la. 

Big  Bone  Lick  Creek,    i 

Hamilton,  Ky.  f 

Patriot,  la 

Warsaw,  E  y 

Yevay,  la 

Kentucky  I'iv'jr. , . 

Madison/ la  

Hanover  Landing,  la 

New  London,  la. 

WestportjKy 

Utica,Ia 

Joffersonville,  Ky 

LoniBvii.iJkKy 

and  from  Pittsburg 610 

Bhippingsport,  Ky. 
Portland,  Ky. 
New  Albany,  la. 
Salt  Biver  and 
West  Point,  Ky. 
Brandenburg,  Ky. 

Mockportfia 

Northampton,  la. 
Amsterdam,  ta... 
Leavensworth,  la 

Fredonia,Ia. 

Alton,  la. 


2 

10 

10 

10 

12 

6 

4 

6 


60 
60 
70 
80 
93 
98 
103 
103 


16  128 
9  183 
1  188 


186 
186 


18  164 

18  172 

8  1T6 

7  183 

8  186 
8  198 
6  108 

18  211 


« 

848 

8 

851 

12 

8G3 

18 

879 

831 

880 

895 

403 

IS 

414 

421 

428 

480 

484 

441 

444 

448 

4    45S 


1    479 


1« 

4 

SO 

2 

2S 

8 

25 

2 

27 

6 

88 

8 

86 

12 

48 

2 

SO 

10 

60 

10 

70 

10 

80 

12 

93 

6 

98 

4 

102 

6 

108 

15 

128 

9 

182 

1 

188 

2 

185 

1 

186 

18 

154 

18 

ITS 

8 

176 

7 

182 

8 

186 

8 

198 

6 

108 

18 

811 

TEXAS. 

Historical  Mention— Batfle-Flelda. 


307 


To 


OonoordU,  K7 10  221 

Borne,  Ia.,  and     )                         ii  «»9 

Stevensport,  Ky.  f "  **" 

Clovenport,  Ky 10  242 

Garmelton,  la 18  265 

Troy,  la 6  261 

LewUport,  Ky 6  267 

Rockport,Ia 12  279 

Owensburg,  Ky 9  288 

BonHarbor.Ky 8  291 

Enterprise,la 8  294 

Newburg,Ia 16  809 

Green  Blver,  Ky 6  815 

Eransville,  U. 9  824 

HentlersonTllle,  Ky 12  886 

Mount  Vernon,  la. 26  862 

Uniontown,  Ky 15  877 

WabashRlver. 6  882 

Ealelgh,Ky. 6  885 

Shawneetown,  111 6  898 

Caseyvllle,  Ky 9  402 

Catb  IN  Book,  111 14  416 

Elizabeth,  IIL 6  422 

Oolconda,IlL 28  446 


To  Gnmberland  Blyer  and  )  it   .ma 

^mlthland,  Ky.  f. ........  IT    4ra 

Tennessee  Birer  and  i  ta  ata 

Paducah,Ky.              f "  «* 

Belgrade,  111 8  482 

FortMassao,IU 2  484 

Caledonia,  lU 26  6U9 

America.111 8  51S 

TrinityTlU 6  617 

Gaibo,  IIL,  and                       )  .  gg^ 

Mouth  of  thb  Ohio  Bnm    f  "  "  "" 

and  from  Pittsburg 999 

Diataneea  from  PUUburg  and  Cineini- 
nati. 

P'mOln.      FmPn)'g 

To8tLoais,Mo 697  1171 

FallsofSt  Anthony..  1489  1966 

Memphi^Tenn 767  1244 

Vickslturg 1158  1680 

Natchez 1869  1746 

NewOrleans 1648  9085 


TEXAS. 

Tkxab,  one  of  the  younger  of  the  great  family  of  American  States,  came  into  the 
Union  through  much  tribtdation,  her  history  marked  with  wars  and  rumors  of  wars. 
In  the  year  1821  the  inducements  held  out  to  settlers  in  this  region  by  the  Got- 
ernment  of  Mexico,  to  whom  the  territory  at  that  period  belonged,  caused  an  im- 
mense  rush  of  emigration  thither  from  the  United  States.  This  new  and  hardier 
population  had  grown  so  great  by  the  year  1882,  as  to  quite  absorb  and  destroy 
the  original  feeble  spirit  of  the  land  under  Mexican  rule,  and  to  embolden  the 
exotic  population  to  seek  the  freedom  and  independence  there,  to  which  they  had 
been  accustomed  at  home.  With  both  the  will  and  power  to  accomplish 
their  purpose,  they  first  demanded  admission  for  their  State  as  an  independent 
meml^r  of  the  Me;;ican  Confederacy;  and  that  being  refused,  they  declared 
themselves  wholly  free  of  all  allegiance  whatsoever  to  that  government.  This 
assumption  resulted  in  a  war  with  Mexico,  which  after  various  fortunes  was 
determined  in  favor  of  the  Texans  by  the  total  defeat  and  capture  of  the  Mex- 
ican President  Santa  Anna,  at  the  memorable  batUe  of  San  Jacinto,  April  21st, 
1886.  The  little  village  of  San  Jacinto  is  in  Harris  County,  near  the  present 
city  of  Houston,  in  Buffalo  Bayou,  near  its  entrance  into  Galveston  Bay. 

Texas  continued  to  be  an  independent  nation  after  the  battle  of  San  Jacinto, 
until  her  admission  in  1846,  as  a  member  of  the  great  North  American  Con> 
federacy. 

This  fresh  turn  in  events  and  the  disputes  which  followed,  in  respect  to  boun- 
dary lines  between  the  new  State  and  the  territory  of  Mexico,  were  soon  followed 
by  the  war  between  that  country  and  the  United  States.  Again,  Texas  became 
the  scenes  of  battle  and  bloodshed,  enriching  her  soil  with  gallant  and  brave 
associations.  Two  of  the  famous  fights  in  this  war,  under  the  sturdy  and 
victorious  lead  of  the  American  General,  Taylor,  occurred  within  the  limits  of  the 
present  State. 

The  immortal  field  of  Palo  Alto  is  near  the  southern  extremity  of  Texas,  be- 
tween Point  Isabel  and  Matamoras,  9  miles  north-east  of  the  latter  town.  The 
battle  took  place  on  the  8th  of  May,  1846.    The  American  troops  numbering 


808 


TEXAS. 


Fbysieal  Ohanetor  of  fhe  Conotry. 


2111,  led  by  General  Taylor,  had  82  killed  and  4*7  wounded,  while  the  Mexicans, 
under  General  Ariata,  amoonting  to  6000  men,  had  262  killed.  The  American 
loss  unhappily  included  the  gallant  Mi^or  Ringeold. 

The  battle>field  of  Besaca  de  la  Fauna,  lies  m  the  south-eastern  oztremity  of 
the  State,  near  the  entrance  of  the  Rio  Grande  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  It  is 
in  close  vicinage  with  the  field  of  Palo  Alto,  4  miles  north  of  Matamoras,  on  the 
route  to  Point  Isabel.  This  gallant  engagement  occurred  on  the  9th  of  May, 
1846,  the  day  following  the  victory  of  Palo  Alto.  The  Mexicans,  to  the  number 
of  6000,  under  General  Arista,  were  totally  defeated  by  about  2000  Americans, 
commanded  by  General  Taylor.  The  loss  of  the  former  was  about  000  killed  and 
wounded,  berides  all  their  artillery  and  furniture :  that  of  the  latter  was  89  killed 
and  82  wounded. 

Though  the  Lone  Star*  has  rinoe  these  days  of  trial  gone  on  prospering  and 
to  prosper,  she  is  not  yet  entirely  at  peace  in  all  her  borders.  At  the  north-west 
phuns  of  the  State  the  people  are  still  exposed  to  the  murderous  incursions  of  their 
Indian  ndghbors,  the  fierce  and  war  ke  Camanches,  Apaches,  and  other  tribes. 


Tli0  LmdumpB  of  TaaDUk— rNo  one 
of  the  Southern  States  has  a  greater 
variety  of  surface  than  has  Texas. 
Along  the  coast  on  the  south-east  there 
is  a  flat  reach  of  from  80  to  60  miles  in 
breadth ;  next  comet  a  belt  of  undulating 
prairie  country  extending  from  160  to 
200  miles  wide,  and  this  agahi  is  suc- 
ceeded in  the  west  and  north-west  by  a 
region  of  bold  hills  and  table-lands. 
The  plateau  of  Texas,  including  some 
portions  of  New  Mexico,  extends  about 
260  miles,  from  north  to  south,  and 
800  mUes  from  the  Rio  Grande  East. 
The  upper  part,  Llano  Estacado  or 
"Staked  Plsdn,"  is  2500  feet  above  the 
sea.  This  immense  district  is  totally 
destitute  of  trees  and  shrubbery,  ex- 
cepting, sometimes,  the  immediate  edge 
of  the  streams.  Even  the  stunted  grasses 
which  the  rains  call  up,  soon  wither  and 
die.  The  Colorado,  the  Brazos  and  the 
Bed  rivers,  find  their  sources  here. 

The  extreme  northern  part  of  the 
State,  extending,  perhaps,  60  miles  or 
more,  is  occupied  by  a  portion  of  the 
great  American  desert.  The  high  lands 
of  the  west  and  north-west  are  yet  a 
wilderness,  visited  only  by  a  few  bold 
hunterS  in  quest  of  the  buflPalo  and  other 
wild  animalb  which  abound  there.  The 
region,  though,  is  said  to  have  an  in- 
viting aspect,  and  to  be  well  watered 
and  fertile. 

*  The  doviee  of  the  flag  of  the  Bopnblio  of 
Tozu. 


The  Colorado  Hillfl  extend  in  a  north 
and  south  direction,  east  of  the  Colora- 
do Biver.  Between  the  Colorado  and 
the  Bio  Grande,  and  north  of  the  sources 
of  the  San  Antonio  and  Nueces  Bivers, 
are  broken  and  irregular  chains  of  hills, 
probablv  outposts  of  the  great  Bocky 
Mountam  ranges.  Some  of  these  hills— 
as  the  Organ,  the  Hueco,  and  the  Gua- 
dalupe Mountains — ^have  an  elevation 
of  8,000  feet  above  the  Bio  Grande ; 
and  the  Guadalupe  group  rises  to  that 
height  above  the  adjacent  plains. 

Texas  abounds  in  mineral  wealth,  as 
nught  be  supposed  from  her  proximity 
to  the  rich  mining  districts  of  Mexico. 
Gold  and  silver  lie  buried,  no  doubt,  in 
large  supplies  in  her  soil.  Indeed,  the 
latter  metal  has  been  already  found  at 
San  Saba  and  upon  the  Bidas  Biver. 
Exciting  rumors  prevailed  for  a  whfle, 
some  few  years  since,  of  the  detection 
of  gold,  west  of  the  Colorado  Biver,  and 
between  it  and  the  San  Saba  Mountdns. 
Coal  is  supposed  to  exist  about  200 
miles  from  the  coast,  in  a  belt  extend 
ing  south-west  from  Trinity  Biver  to 
the  Bio  Grande.  Iron  is  found  in  many 
parts  of  the  State ;  and  copperas, 
agates,  lime,  alum,  chalcedony,  jasper, 
and  red  and  white  sandstone.^  There 
are,  too,  salt-lakes  and  salt-springs.  In 
a  pitch  lake,  20  miles  from  Beaumont, 
there  are  deposits  of  sulphur,  nitre,  and 
fire-clay. 

The  coast  of  Texas,  like  that  of  the 


TEXAS. 


800 


The  Bio  Oimnde  aad  other  Riven. 


Wild  Life  la  Texas. 


borders  of  all  the  Southern  States  on 
the  Atlantic  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico, 
is  lined  with  a  chain  of  low  islands,  sep- 
arated from  the  main  land  by  bays  and 
lagoons.  There  are  the  bays  of  Galves- 
ton, Hatagordo,  Espiritu  Santa,  Aran- 
zas,  Corpus  Ghristi,  and  Laguna  del  Ma- 
dre.  These  bays  are  some  80,  and  some 
nearly  100  miles  in  length. 

Tlia  Bio  Qrande,  or  Ko  Bravo  del 
Norte,  the  largest  river  m  Texas,  of 
which  it  forms  the  southern  boundary, 
is  1,800  miles  in  length.  It  comes  from 
the  Rocky  Mountains  to  the  Gulf  of  Mex- 
ico. It  is  a  shallow  stream,  much 
broken  by  rapids  and  sand-bars,  though 
small  steamboats  ascend  its  waters  450 
miles  from  the  sea,  to  Kingsbury  Bapids. 
The  *' Great  Indian  Crosshig"  is  about 
900tfniles  from  its  mouth.  At  this  place 
is  the  famous  ford  of  the  Apaches  and 
the  iSamanches,  wh^  they  make  their 
predatory  visits  into  Mexico. 

The  Oolorado  Blver  runs  from  the 
table-lands  in  the  north-west  part  of  the 
State  900  miles  to  Matagordo  Bay.  Aus- 


tin City,  'Bastrop,  La  Orange,  Colum- 
bus, and  Matagordo,  are  upon  its  baidcs. 
Austin,  the  capital  of  the  State,  at  the 
head  of  steamboat  navigation,  is  800 
miles  from  the  sea ;  at  Matagordo,  at  its 
mouth,  man^  portions  of  tus  river  are 
extremely  picturesque. 

Tlie  BnuKMi  is  one  of  the  largest  of 
the  Texan  rivers.  It  runs  from  the  ta- 
ble-lands of  the  west  to  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  40  miles  below  Galveston ;  the 
direct  distance  from  its  source  to  ita 
mouth  is  600  miles,  and,  by  the  wind* 
ings  of  its  channel,  900  miles.  It  passes 
by  Waco,  Washington,  Columbia,  and 
lUchmond.  At  high  water  the  Bra- 
zos  is  navigable  800  miles  from  its 
mouth,  to  Washington,  and  steamboats 
may  ascend  40  nmes,  to  Columbia,  at 
all  seasons.  Much  of  its  course  is 
through  alluvial  plains,  occupied  with 
sugar  and  cotton  plantations,  fields  of 
Indian  corn,  and  lorests  of  red  cedar 
and  of  live  oak. 

The  Nueoei  comes,  like  most  of  the 
rivers  of  Texas,  from  the  table  and  bin 


810 


TBZA8. 


Wild  Animal*— Blrd»—B»llwt7>— City  of  OtlTeston. 


difltrictfl  of  the  west,  and  flows  through 
the  State  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The 
Nueces  follows  a  very  eccentric  course 
of  8S0  miles  to  the  Nueces  Bay.  It  may 
be  ascended  by  steamers  100  miles. 

The  San  Antonio,  the  Qhtadaloupe, 
the  TVtnt^y,  the  NeeMa,  and  the  StUnne, 
other  chief  rivers  of  Texas,  are,  in  gen- 
eral character,  course,  and  extent, 
much  like  those  of  which  we  have  al- 
ready  spoken  more  at  length. 

Th«  Soil  of  Texas  is  as  varied  as  its 
surface  and  climate,  and,  for  the  most 
part,  extremely  fehile.    The  great  sta- 

Sle  is  cotton,  which  thrives  all  over  the 
tate,  and  is  of  very  superior  quaUty  in 
the  Gulf  districts.  Sugar  may  be  prolii;- 
ably  cultivated  in  the  level  regions. 
Tobacco  is  raised  with  ease,  and  with 
scarcely  less  success  than  in  Cuba  itself. 
All  the  grains  and  giluses  of  the  north 
are  found  here,  with  every  variety  of 
tropical  and  other  fruits  and  vegetation. 
The  live  oak,  in  many  varieties,  abounds 
in  the  forests,  besides  the  palmetto,  ce- 
dar, pine,  hickory,  walnut,  ash,  pecan, 
mulberry,  elm,  sycamore  and  cypress. 

Wild  Aninuui.  There  is  every  op- 
portunTtv  for  the  adventurous  hunter, 
in  the  wildernesses  and  prairies  of  Tex- 
as, where  wild  animals  of  many  species 
abound.  In  the  north-west  he  may 
find  the  wild  horse,  or  mustang,  and  the 
fierce  buffalo.  The  deer  and  the  ante- 
lope, the  moose  and  the  mountain  goat, 
are  plehtifiil — ^not  to  mention  tho^ja- 
guarsi  the  pumas,  wild-cats,  black  bears, 
ocelots,  wolveiB  and  foxes,  and  such 
smaller  game  as  peccaries,  opossums, 
raccoons,  hares,  rabbits,  and  squirrels. 
A  special  feature  of  the  wild  life  here  is 
the  prairie  dog,  or  marmot,  dwelling  in 
holes  burrowed  in  the  grotind^  Their 
numbers  are  so  great  that  the  traveller 
may  sometimes  journey  for  days  to- 
gether without  losing  sight  of  them. 

Wild  Birds  are  abundant  in  many 
varieties,  birds  of  prey  and  birds  of 
sport.  There  is  the  bald-headed  eagle 
and  the  Mexican  eagle,  vultures,  owls, 
hawks,  wild  turkeys,  wild  geese,  prairie 
hens,  canvass-back  and  othor  ducks, 
teal,  brandt,  pheasants,  quid -i^  grouse, 
woodcocks,  pigeons,  partridf  ,cs,  snipes, 


plovers,  red-birds,  and  turtle-doves.  By 
the  waters  are  found,  also,  the  crane, 
the  swan,  the  pelican,  the  water  turkey, 
and  the  king-fisher.  The  smaller  birds 
are  numerous,  and  among  them  many  of 
the  most  brilliant  plumage,  as  the  ori- 
ole, the  paroquet,  the  cardinal,  the 
whippoorwill,  and  the  sweet-toned 
modcing-bird.  BUokbirds  abound,  and 
woodpeckers,  blue-jays,  starlings,  red- 
birds,  swallows,  martens,  and  wrens. 

In  the  rivers  and  bays  there  are  all 
the  varieties  of  water  Ufe,  from  alliga- 
tors, to  perch,  pike,  trout,  turtles  and 
oysters. 

Snakes  and  reptiles  of  all  sorts  are  at 
home  in  Texas.  Rattlesnakes,  mocca- 
sins, copperheads,  coach-whips,  and 
garden  snakes,  homed  frogs  and  lizards, 
the  ugly  centipedes  and  the  poisonous 
tarantula. 

Railwayi.  The  people  of  Texas 
have  not  yet  had  time  to  build  many 
Railroads.  Various  lines,  however,  are 
in  process  of  construction,  and  others 
are  surveyed. 

The  Buffalo,  Bayou,  Brazos  and  Col- 
orado  Railway  extends  at  present  26' 
miles  from  Harrisburg,  near  Houston, 
to  Richmond,  on  the  Brazos  river,  170 
miles  south-east  of  Austin  City. 

The  Galveston  and  Red  River  Rail- 
way, now  partly  in  operation,  is  to  be 
continued  westward  to  the  Brazos  river, 
perhaps  to  Austin. 

Oalveaton  from  New  OrUant,  by 
steamer,  Sundays  and  Thursdays.  Dis- 
tance, 460  miles. 

Qalvwton,  with  a  population  of  8  or 
9  thousand,  is  yet  the  largest  city  and 
the  commercial  metropolis  of  Texas.  It 
is  built  on  an  island  at  the  mouth  of  Gal- 
veston bay.  The  island  of  Galveston 
is  about  SO  miles  in  length  and  3  miles 
broad.  It' is  a  thriving  place,  and  with 
the  spirit  of  progress,  and  its  advan- 
tages as  the  best  harbor  on  the  coast, 
wUl  no  doubt  increase  rapidly  in  •im- 
portance. Galveston  is  provided  with 
good  hotels,  a  reasonable  suppff^  of 
newspapers,  churches  and  schools. 
Rtulways  will  soon  be  constructed  hence 
to  Houston,  to  Red  River,  and  other 
points.    Steamboats  ply  regularly  be- 


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TEXAS. 


611 


TowM  tnd  BootMi 


110 


tween  the  eitj  and  the  towns  in  the  in* 
terior,  and  to  New  Orleana. 

The  first  settlement  here  wu  made 
In  1887. 

Eoutefrcm  Galvetton.  to  Auttin,  To 
Houston  (by  steamboat),  82  miles ;  San 
Felipe  (by  stage),  186 ;  Butersyille,  178; 
La  Grange,  188;  Mt.  Pleasant,  218; 
Bastrop,  228  ;  Austin,  266. 

From  Oalvetton  to  Matagorda^  by 
Btage.  To  San  Luis,  27 ;  Yelasoo,  88 ; 
Cedar  Orove,  64 ;  Matagorda,  89. 

From  Qidveston  to  WathingUm.  To 
Houston,  82;  Myrtle  Turf,  112:  Wash- 
IKOTON,  147. 

From  OaivnUm  to  Cormu  Chriati. 
To  Yelasoo,  38  f  iHitagorda,  89 ;  Tex- 
ana,  188;  Victoria,  159;  GolUd)  194; 
OoRPCS  Christi,  246. 

Boniton  from  New  Orleans  is  by 
steamer  via  Galveston.  Houston  is  the 
second  of  the  Texan  cities  in  commer- 
cial importance.  Its  population  is  about 
7,000.  It  is  situated  on  the  low  lands  of 
ti^e  coast  stretch,  upon  the  Buffalo 
Bayou,  82  miles  north-west  of  Galves- 
ton and  200  miles  east-south-east  of  Aus- 
tin City.  Much  of  the  surrounding 
country  is  a  treeless  savanna,  covered 
with  fine  pasturage.  This  is  a  great  en- 
trepot for  the  cotton,  sugar,  and  other 
products  of  the  adjacent  country. 
Houston  was  settled  in  1886,  and  was 
once  the  capital  of  Texas.  There  are 
excellent  hotels  here.  A  Bulroad,  to 
extend  hence  to  Austin  City,  is  partly  in 
operation. 

From  Hotuton  to  Wiuhington,  To 
Myrtle  Turf,  80;  Washinoton,  86. 

From  Honaton  to  Beaumont.  To 
Lynchburg,  86;  to  Liberty,  60;  to 
Bkavmont,  112. 

Anatiiii  the  capital  of  Texas,  is  upon 
the  Colorado  River,  200  miles  by  land 
from  its  mouth,  and  280  miles  west- 
north-west  of  Galveston.  The  landscape 
of  the  vicinage  is  strikingly  picturesque,  i 


The  seat  of  government  was  established 
here  in  1844.  The  preseiit  population 
is  nearly  4,000.  From  New  Orleans  by 
steamer  to  Galveston.  For  routes  thence, 
see  Oalvuton. 

From  Auttin  to  Oalvetton. — ^Reverse 
route  from  Galveston  to  Austin,  fourth 
route  preceding. 

From  AMttin  to  MeUagorda. — ^To  Bas- 
trop, 88 ;  Mt.  Pleasant,  48 ;  La  Grange, 
78 ;  Columbus,  108 ;  Egypt,  188 ;  Pres- 
ton, 168 ;  Matagorda,  ^8. 

From  4y*tin  to  Waahinffton.—'Io  La 
Grange,  78 ;  Rutersville,  78 ;  Industry, 
98;  Mt.  Vernon,  116;  Independence, 
132;  Washington,  142. 

From  Auttin  to  the  Rio  Chrande.—To 
Bastrop,  88 ;  River  San  Marcos,  77 ; 
River  Guadaloupe,  98 ;  San  Antonio  de 
Bexar,  148 ;  River  San  Miguel,  190 ; 
River.  Frip,  2^0;  River  Nueces,  282; 
Rio  Grande  (town  and  river),  382. 

Sstt  JkatcmOf  with  a  population  of 
about  8,000,  is  one  of  the  largest  towns 
in  Texas.  It  is  in  Bexar  County,  on  the 
San  Antonio  iUver,  110  miles  south- 
west of  Austin  City.  Fort  Alamo,  in 
the  vicinity,  contains  a  United  States 
Arsenal.  Many  of  the  residences  here 
are  very  elegant  and  beautiful. 

BrowiumIl«|  formerly  Fort  Brown^ 
is  oppoute  Matamoras,  on  the  Rio 
Grande,  40  miles  from  its  mouth.  It 
is  300  south  of  Austin.  Brownsville  Is 
one  of  the  chief  towns  of  the  State,  - 
with  a  popukUon  of  about  6,000.  It 
was  named  in  honor  of  Major  Brown, 
who  commanded  the  garrison  at  the 
period  of  the  Mexican  war.  He  was 
mortally  wounded  by  a  shell  from  the 
enemy's  batteries  (May  6,  1846)  while 
General  Taylor  was  occupied  in  opening 
a  communication  with  Point  IsabeL 
The  American  army  entered  Mata- 
moras without  opposition  after  the  suc- 
cess of  Palo  Alto  and  Resaca  de  la 
Fahna. 


ARKANSAS. 

Abkansas  is  one  of  the  younger  States,  having  been  admitted  into  the  Union 
as  late  as  1886.  It  was  formerly  a  part  of  the  territory  of  Louisiana,  and  was 
Mttled  by  the  French  at  Arkansas  Post,  about  1686.    Its  history  has  no  very 


813 


ABKAN8A8. 


Prodnoto— AninukU— BiT«n. 


marked  points,,  beyond  rude  frontier  oooteati  with  the  Idditn  tribea.  It  ie  • 
wild,  desolate  region  of  iwamps.  marabes.  and  lagoona,  for  a  hundred  wilei  back 
bom  the  MiMiaaippi  River.  Thia  great  plain  ia  broken  at  intenrala  by  elevations 
sometimes  thirtv  miles  tn  oircuit.  At  flood  periods,  when  the  land  ia,  aa  it  often 
ia,  inundated,  theae  pointa  become  temporaiy  iahinda.  Great  leveea  are  in  pro- 
ceaa  of  conatruotion  along  the  banka  of  the  river,  by  which  meana  much  of  thia 
vaat  tract  will  be  converted  into  valuable  land,  with  a  aoil  of  the  richeat  nature. 
The  Ozark  Mountaina  biaect  the  State  unequally.  The  middle  regions,  and  the 
diatriot  north  of  the  Osark  rangea,  have  a  broken  and  varied  aurface. 

The  climate,  soil,  vegetation,  and  producta  of  the  lower  portion  of  Arkanitaa, 
are  all  similar  to  thoae  of  the  other  south-western  Statea ;  while  the  hilly  rcgioiM 
above  have,  in»all  these  respects,  the  more  northern  cbaraoterist}es.  The 
southern  section  is  unhealthy,  while  the  uplands  are  as  salubrious  aa  any  port  of 
the  north-western  States. 


Productions.  The  rich,  black  allu- 
vion of  the  river,  yields  Indian  com  in 
great  luxuriance.  Thb  product,  with 
cotton,  tobacco,  rice,  manv  varieties  of 
grain,  wool,  hops,  hemp,  flax,  and  silk, 
are  the  staples. 

The  FoRKST  Tnns  include  great 
quantities  of  the  cotton-wood,  gum, 
ash,  and  cypress,  in  the  bottom  huids ; 
and  the  usual  vegetation  of  the  north 
in  the  upbmds.  The  susar-maple,  yield* 
ing  large  supplies  oi  sap,  is  found 
here. 

Wild  Animals  range  the  forests  and 
swamps  in  Arkansas  as  id  Texas ;  and 
quails,  wild  turkeys,  geese,  and  other 
birds  abound.  Trout  and  other  fish 
•re  plentiful  in  the  rivers  and  streams. 

Minerals.  Coal,  iron,  zino,  lead, 
gypsum,  manganese,  salt,  and  other  min- 
eral products  exist  here.  Oold,  too, 
it  is  said,  has  been  fbund.  "  There  is," 
says  a  writer,  "manganese  enough  in 
Arkansas  to  supply  the  world ;  in  sine, 
it  exceeds  every  State  except  New 
Jersey ;  and  has  more  gypsum  than  all 
the  other  States  put  together;  while  it 
is  equally  well  supidied  with  marble  and 

Reaching  Arkansas,  we  leave  the  sea- 
board, which  we  have  followed  almost 
without  intermission  thus  fiur,  in  our 
rapid  tour  of  the  Union,  from  the  St. 
Lawrence,  southward  and  westward. 
Arkansas  has  no  seaboard,  though  the 
great  highway  of  the  Hlssisrippi  well 
supplies  this  want ;  laidng  as  its  waters 
do  nearly  aSl  its  eastern  boundary,  and 


receiving  the  floods  and  freights  of 
most  of  the  many  great  rivers  which 
traverse  every  part  of  its  wide  area. 

The  ArkaniMii  Rlwwr}  rising  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  comes  in  from  the 
Indian  Territory  on  the  west,  and  tra- 
verses the  middle  of  the  State  for  000 
miles,  gathering  up  in  its  long  course 
the  waters  of  many  tributary  streams, 
and  bearing  them  to  the  great  floods  of 
the  Missisupid.  The  entire  leneth  of 
this  river  is  2,000  miles.  It  is  na^gable 
for  steamers  800  ndles.  Next  to  the 
Missouri,  the  Arkansas  is  the  largest 
of  the  vassals  of  the  "Father  of 
Waters.'* 

The  WhiU  BiTW  is  800  miles  in 
length.  It  is  navigable  from  the  Missis- 
sippi— ^into  which  it  debouches,  not  fkr 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Arkansas — 860 
miles  to  the  mouth  of  the  Black  River, 
and  at  some  periods  of  the  year  50  miles 
yet  higher  up,  to  Batesville.  As  along 
the  other  rivers  of  Arkansas,  the  cy- 
press covers  the  swamps  of  the  Missis- 
nppi  vicinage,  and  gives  place  to  the 
pnine  and  other  vegetation  higher  up.,/ 
This  stream  has  numerous  lai^e  afflu- 
ents, among  them  the  Big  North  Fork, 
Bryant's  Fork,  the  Little  North  Fork, 
and  Buffalo  Fork. 

The  St.  TxtateiMf  the  Bed  Riwor,  the 
Washita,  and  other  waters  bear  the  same 
general  characteristics  as  the  streams 
akeady  mentioned.  There  are  no  bkes 
in  this  State  of  especial  extent  or  in- 
terest. 

iUilw»ya  haive  not  thus  far  been 


M 


▲BKANSAS. 


813 


Placet  and  So«no»— Buutea, 


Itiaa 
Uei  back 
ievationa 
I  it  often 
B  in  pKH 
ih  of  this 
t  nature. 
,  and  the 

Lrkaniias, 
r  region* 
is.  TlM 
^  part  of 


eighta  of 
ira  which 
I  area, 
kg  in  the 
from  the 

and  tra- 
e  for  600 
kg  course 

streams, 
I  floods  of 
length  of 
navigable 
it  to  the 
e  burgest 
ather    of 

miles  in 
heliissis- 
9,  not  fkr 
Lsa»— 860 
ck  River, 
r  60  miles 
As  along 
I,  the  oy- 
le  Missis- 
ce  to  the 
gher  up. 
rgeafflu- 
rth  Fork, 
rth  Fork, 

lver,the 

the  same 
streams 
no  lakes 
nt  or  in- 
fer been 


much  needed  in  Arkansas,  with  her 
great  facilities  of  water  communication, 
and  her  thin  population.  Still  various 
routes  are  projected ;  one  of  them  to 
lead  from  St.  Louis  to  New  Orleans ; 
and  another  from  Little  Rock  to  Mem- 
phis. In  some  i\iture  edition  of  this 
work,  we  shall  no  doubt  be  called 
upon  to  unravel  the  iron  web  of  travel 
here,  as,  now,  in  most  of  the  other  States 
of  the  Union. 

Zdttl*  Rook— accessible  by  steam- 
boat from  the  Mississippi.  Arkansas 
has  as  yet  no  towns  of  any  considerable 
extent.  Little  Rock,  the  capital,  with 
a  population  of  8,0U0  or  4,000,  is  the 
lareest.  It  is  situated  on  the  top  of  a 
rocky  bluff,  the  first  of  these  character- 
istic precipices  which  is  seen  in  the 
ascent  of  the  Arkansas  River,  800  miles 
up.  The  State  House  is  a  handsome, 
roueh-cast  brick  edifice.  The  Penitenti- 
ary Ui  located  here,  and  there  is  also  a 
United  States  Arsenal.  Regular  com- 
munication with  points  on  the  Arkansas 
and  the  Mississippi  Rivers. 

Jioiftt  from  Little  Bock  to  Fort 
Smith  and  Fort  Oibton. — ^To  Lewis- 
burg,  46;  Ft.  Remove,  62;  Dwight, 
76;  Scotia,  82;  Olarksville,  98;  Horse 
Head,  109;  Ozark,  121;  Pleasant  Hill, 
186;  Van  Buren,  160;  Fort  Smith, 
166 ;  Fort  Oibson,  28  miles. 

From  Little  Bock  to  BateavilUy  Ark. 
—To  Oakland  Orove,  80 ;  Searcy,  60 ; 
Batesviile,  96  miles. 

From  Baiemlle  to  Six^a  Fsrry.— To 
Sulphur  Springs,  10;  Smithville,  86; 
Jackson,  60 ;  Hix's  Ferry,  80  miles. 

From  Little  Book  to  Helena,  Ark. — 
To  Big  Prairie,  26;  Rock  Roe,  »8 ; 
Lawrenceville,  48;  Lick  Greek,  76; 
Helena,  91  miles. 

FVom  Little  Bock  to  Napoleon,  Ark. 
—To  Pine  Bluff,  60;  Richland,  72; 
Arkansas  Post,  118;  Wellington,  188; 
Napoleon,  148  miles. 

From  Little  Bock  to  Columbia,  Ark. 
—To  Pine  Bluff,  60;  Bartholomew, 
120 ;  Columbia,  146  mUes. 

From  Little  Bock  to  Memphis,  Tenn. 
—To  Clarendon,  66 ;  St.  Francis,  116 ; 
Marion,  146;   Mississippi  River,   164; 
Memphis,  166  miles. 
14 


From  Little  Bock  to  Fultcn,  Ark.— 
To  Benton,  24;  IJpckport,  66;  Ray- 
mond, 80 ;  Qreenville,  98 ;  Washington, 
129 ;  Fulton  and  Red  River,  144  miles. 

The  Hot  Springe  are  situated  a  few 
miles  north  of  the  Washita  River. 

A  line  of  stages  runs  hence  from 
Little  Rock,  68  miles. 

Projecting  over  the  Hot  Spring  Creek 
there  la  a  point  of  land  from  16U  to  200 
feet  high,  forming  a  steep  bank.  More 
than  one  hundred  springs  issue  hence, 
in  temperature  varying  from  186°  to 
160°  Farenheit.  The  region  is  one  of 
very  great  resort. 

Alabaator  Mountain.  In  Pike  Coun- 
ty, on  the  Little  Missouri  River,  there 
is  a  mountain  of  Alabaster,  of  fine 
quality,  and  white  as  new-fallen  snow. 

Natnnd  Bridge.  In  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  Alabaster  Mountain,  there 
is  a  remarkable  natural  bridge  forma- 
tion, which  is  regarded  as  a  very  curious 
and  interesting  scene. 

Van  Buren,  the  most  commercial 
town  of  Arkansas,  is  160  miles  west*  • 
north-west  of  Little  Rock,  within  five 
miles  of  the  Indian  Territory.    It  is. 
pleasantly  situated  on  the    Arkansas 
River. 

BateivUlei  with  a  population  of 
about  2,000,  is  upon  the  White  River, 
400  miles  from  its  mouth.  Small  steam- 
ers ascend  at  nearly  all  seasons.  Bates- 
ville  is  distant  from  Little  Rock  (see 
route)  90  miles ;  from  Memphis,  Tenn., 
116  miles. 

Fort  Smith  is  a  thriving  village  on . 
the  Arkansas  River,  168  miles  west- 
north-west,  by  land,  of  Little  Rock. 

Oamden,  is  upon  the  Washita  River, 
110  miles  from  Little  Rock. 

Napotoon,  126  miles  south-east  of 
Little  Rock,  is  upon  the  Mississippi 
River,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Arkansas. 
It  is  a  busy  and  thriving  place — the 
seat  of  a  United  States  Marine  Hospital. 

Arkaniiai  Post,  is  upon  the  Arltan- 
sas  River,  some  60  miles  from  its 
mouth.  It  is  an  ancient  settlement, 
having  been  occupied  by  the  French  as 
early  as  1685.  It  was,  for  many  years, 
the  chief  depot  of  the  peltries  of  the 
country  far  around. 


f.tt^.- 


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Sli 


TSNNBSSEB. 

Oenenl  Bemarks— Tenneaaee  Biver. 


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1' 


TEKNESSEE. 

Thi  territory,  which  now  forms  the  State  of  Tennessee,  was  settled  before  any 
other  of  the  lands  west  of  the  Alleghanies,  Fort  Loudon  having  been  built  by 
adventurers  from  North  Carolina  as  early  as  1767.  The  early  history  of  the 
country  is,  like  that  of  the  neighboring  State  of  Kentucky,  fuU  of  the  records  of 
bloody  struggles  with  the  Indian  occupants  of  the  soiL 

The  little  band  of  pioneers  at  Fort  Loudon,  were  not,  of  course,  suffered  to  rest 
peacefully  in  their  new  home :  on  the  contrary,  they  were  idl  either  butchered  or 
driven  away.  In  a  few  years,  though,  the  axes  of  the  whites  again  rung  through 
the  wile  xorests,  and  their  cabins  dotted  the  land,  gradually  dustering  Into  villages 
and  towns.  Tennessee  was  admitted,  in  1796,  as  the  sixteenth  member  of  the 
American  Union.    She  played  a  very  honorable  part  in  the  war  of  1812. 

The  landscape  of  Tennessee  is  most  varied  and  agreeable,  though  none  of  the 
great  natural  wonders  of  the  Republic  lie  within  her  borders.  Her  moontain, 
valley,  and  river  scenery  is  exceedingly  beautiful,  and  will  become  famous  as  it 
becomes  known.  The  Cumberland  Hills,  and  other  ranges  of  the  Appalachian 
chain,  pass  through  her  western  area,  separating  her  from  North  Carolina,  and 
shutting  in  the  valleys  of  the  Holston  and  other  rivers.  The  height  of  the 
mountain  ridges  and  summits  here  is  variously  estimated  at  from  IQuO  to'  2000 
or  more  feet.  They  are  most  of  them  covered  with  a  rich  forest  growth  to  the 
top,  where  the  axe  and  the  plough  have  not  changed  their  native  character. 
The  central  portion  of  the  State,  stretching  from  the  mountains  to  the  Tennessee 
River,  has  a  broken  surface,  while  beyond,  towards  the  Mississippi,  which  mdces 
the  western  boundary,  the  country  is  comparatively  level. 

Many  valuable  mineral  products  are  found  here — coal  and  iron  in  great  abun- 
dance, and  rich  deposits  of  copper.  Gold,  too,  has  been  detected,  and  silver,  lead, 
tine,  manganese,  magnetic-iron  ore,  gypsum  of  superior  quality,  and  a  great 
variety  of  beautiful  marbles,  slate,  nitre,  burrstones,  and  limestone.  Salt  and 
mineral  springs,  the  latter  of  very  valuable  character,  abound. 

The  climate  here,  excepting  in  the  river  lowlands,  is  most  agreeable  and 
healthful ;  exempt  alike  from  the  winter  severities  of  the  North,  and  from  the 
summer  heats  of  the  South. 

Immense  quantities  Of  live  stock  are  raised  in  Tennessee ;  more,  indeed,  than 
in  any  ether  part  of  .the  Union.  It  is,  too,  a  vast  tobacco,  cotton,  and  corn- 
growing  region.  The  culture  of  hemp,  buckwheat,  rye,  oats,  barley,  maple, 
sugar,  and  many  other  agricultural  products  occupy  the  industry  and  contribute 
to  the  wealth  of  the  people. 


Tb»  Tenneuae  Riv«r  enters  the 
State  at  its  south-east  extremity,  from 
North  Carolina,  and  forms  the  chief 
aflSuent  of  the  Ohio.  Its  sources  are 
among  the  Alleghanies,  in  Virginia, 
flowing  under  the  names  of  the  Clinch 
and  the  Holston  Rivers,  until  they  unite 
at  Kingston,  in  Tennessee.  The  first 
course  of  the  main  stream  u  south- 
west to  Chattanooga,  near  the  point 
where  the  States  of  Tennessee,  Georgia, 
and  Alabama  meet.  From  Chattanooga 
it  turns  towards  the  north-west,  until 


the  obstruction  of  the  Cumberland 
Mountains  bends  its  current  southward 
again,  and  sends  it  off  on  tiditour  of 
800  miles  into  Upper  Alabama  a  ad  the 
north-east  comer  of  the  Mississippi.  It 
gets  back  to  Tennessee  at  this  point, 
and,  for  the  second  time,  traverses  the 
entire  breadth  of  the  State,  crosses 
Kentucky,  and  reaches  the  end  of  its 
journey  at  Paducab,  48  miles  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Ohio.  The  length  of  the 
Tennessee  proper  is  about  800  miles; 
including  its  longest  branch,  the  Hoi- 


i 


ijf^ 


WfMmrnt^ 


|4« 


d  before  any 
een  built  by 
[story  of  the 
lie  records  of 

iffered  to  rest 
butchered  or 
rung  through 
;  into  villages 
»mber  of  the 
1812. 

I  none  of  the 
er  mountain, 
famous  as  it 
Appalachian 
Carolina,  and 
leight  of  the 
IQUOta  2000 
rowth  to  the 
re  character, 
be  Tennessee 
which  makes 

I  great  abun- 
1  silver,  lead, 
and  a  great 
e.    Salt  and 

;reeable  and 
ind  from  the 

indeed, than 
and  corn- 
irley,  maple, 
id  contribute 


Cumberland 
it  southward 

a.dStoiur  of 
ima  a  jd  the 

lissippi.    It 

this  point, 
raverses  the 
ate,   crosses 

end  of  its 
es  from  the 
ngth  of  the 

800  miles; 
sb,  the  Hoi- 


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I 

4 


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MAP  OF  THE 

WB8TEBN  STAXS8. 

KNGBAYKll  TO  ACCOMPAOTr 
APPIJKTONS* 

HAND    BOOK   OF  AMERICAN    TRAVEL 


West  flrom     8 


7    r.itwwieh 


y.ntiriidi:  ,  ,•■'11  !<■  .<i»  •'  ■".■■/'..■•.,;/'  '/i<  if'ii  .'')*"  '•)  H  */<V.'.v".    ■'I'll'  ilfri:i '-> '/  'I' IK'  lujiii.i  I0I.-1  ,.i  il.r  !-:<ui,ni  ilijiul  "I  r,i,i,.,ili„ 


udr  a 


8       Vfesl  from     B 


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TBitMISSEB. 


815 


Th«  TeaiMMM  Blvwr— BaUir»: 


-"<« 


Yleir  on  the  Tenneasee  Bint. 


8ton,  its  waters  extend  1,100  miles. 
The  only  important  obstruction  in  the 
navigation  of  the  Tennessee  is  that 
great  20  miles  stretch  of  n^ids  in  Ala- 
bama, the  Muscle  Shoals  (see  Alabama). 
Steamboats  ascend  the  river  nearly  800 
miles,  to  the  foot  of  these  rapids,  and 
above,  to  Knozville,  on  the  Holston, 
nearly  600  miles.  A  railway  suppUes 
the  missing  link  in  the  passage  of  the 
river,  caused  by  the  intervention  of  the 
rapids.  Enoxville  and  Chattanooga 
are  the  principal  {daces  in  Tennessee 
passed  by  this  river.  In  Alabama,  Tus- 
cumbia  and  Florence ;  and  in  Kentucky, 
Faduoah. 

The  upper  waters  of  tiie  Temiessee, 
and  all  tibiat  portion  of  the  river  in  the 
eastern  and  middle  parts  of  the  State, 
are  eximmely  beautiM ;  iwried  as  the 
landsoipe  is,  by  wild  mountain  scenes, 
and  fertile  pastoral  lands.  In  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Chatlanooga,  where  the 
Look-out  Mountain  lifts  its  bold  crest, 
the  scenery  is  especially  attractive.  It 
would  be  diflScult  to  find  a  more  charm- 
ing picture  than  that  from  the  summit 
of  the  Look-out  Mountiun,  over  the 
smiling  vallev  of  the  Tennessee,  and  the 
capricious  windbgs  of  the  river. 

The  chief  rivers  of  the  Tennessee,  be- 
irides  its  great  namesake,  and  the  two 
branches  from  which  it  ii  formed — 


the  Holston  and  the  Clinch — are  the  Hi- 
awassee,  from  Georgia,  the  Hatohee, 
and  the  Duck  Kver.  All  the  waters  of 
the  State  are  ultimately  absorbed  by 
the  Missisuppi,  in  its  western  bounds 
ary. 

Railway*  iaTMUMMMb  Nashville 
and  Chattanooga,  161  miles  firom  Nash- 
ville, in  the  North  Central  part  of  the 
State,  to  Chattano<^;a,  near  the  Qeorgia 
and  Alabama  lines,  connecting  with  tne 
Georgia  and  South  Carolina  Railway 
system.  To  be  extended  north-west  to 
the  Ohio  River. 

Tennessee  and  Alabama.  In  opera- 
tion southward  to  Columbia ;  to  be  ex- 
tended and  connected  with  routes  from 
Mobile,  Alabama,  and  from  New  Or- 
leans. 

East  Tennessee  and  Georgia.  IVom 
Enoxville,  south-west,  108  miles,  to 
Dalton,  Georgia,  connecting  with  the 
ndlways  of  that  State.  To  be  extended 
north*east,  by  the  East  Tennessee  and 
Vir^nia,  to  the  ndlways  of  Virginia, 
and  west,  from  Enoxville  to  Nashville. 

Memphis  and  Charleston^  810  miles 
from  Memphis  to  Chattanooga,  partly 
on  the  southern  borders  of  extreme 
Western  Tennessee,  through  the  upper 

ert  of  MissLsdppi  and  Alabama,  into 
At  Tennessee. 
Memphis  and  Granada,  southward, 


h\ 


sie 


TENNBSSBB. 
NashvlUe— Memphis— KnoxTllI«,  «t«. 


I 


fr  IC- 


t 


from  Memphifl  to  the  Mississippi  and 
Louisiana  roads. 

Besides,  these  routes  now  in  operation 
many  others  are  being  constructed  or 
are  proposed. ' 

NMhvill*,  the  capital  of  Tennes- 
see, and  the  most  important  town  in  the 
commonwealth,  is  most  agreeably  situ- 
ated on  the  south  side  of  Cumberland 
River,  and  at  the  head  of  steamboat  navi* 
gation.  The  site  of  the  town  consists 
of  an  entire  rock,  covered  in  some 
places  by  a  thhi  soil,  and  elevated  from 
60  to  176  feet  above  the  river.  This 
place,  owing  to  its  healthy  location,  is 
the  resort  of  numbers  from  the  low:er 
country  during  the  heat  of  summer., 
Numerous  steamboats  of  the  first  class 
are  owned  here,  which  ply  at  regular 
intervals  between  Nashville  and  Cin- 
cinnati, andk>tber  places. 

Both  the  public  and  private  build- 
ings of  Nashville  are  highly  creditable 
to  the  taste  and  the  liberality  of  the  peo- 
ple ;  many  of  the  latter  are  really  sump- 
tuous in  their  character.  The  capitol, 
in  its  bold  position  176  feet  above  the 
river,  and  in  its  elegant  and  costly  arch- 
itecture, is  a  very  imposing  structure. 
It  is  buUt  of  fine  limestone,  much  like 
marble,  which  was  quarried  on  the  spot. 
Its  noble  dimensions  are  240  by  136 
feet.  Its  cost  was  about  $1,000,000. 
The  Lunatic  Asylum  is  a  superb  aJSair, 
and  so,  too,  is  the  Penitentiary  with  its 
810  feet  fafade.  Here  is  the  Univer- 
sity of  Nashville,  founded  in  1806.  Its 
Medical  School  has  over  100  students. 
The  Mineral  Cabmet  of  the  late  Dr. 
Troost  is  the  richest  private  collection 
in  the  United  States.  A  wire  Suspen- 
sion Bridge  spans  the  Cumberland  ^ver 
here.  It  was  built  at  a  cost  of  $100,000. 
The  city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  sup- 
plied with  water  from  the  river.  The 
population  of  Nashville  was  in  1868, 
about  20,000.  The  city  is  ^200  miles 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Cumberland  Riv- 
er, 280  miles  east-north-east  of  Memphis, 
206  miles  south-west  of  Lexington,  Ken- 
tucky, and  684  miles  from  Washington. 
Railroads  are  in  progress,  which  will 
connect  it  with  Louisville,  Kentucky, 
and  thence  with  all  the  great  railwayf^. 


north  and  east— others,  wl^ich  will  unite 
it  with  all  the  Atlantia  States  via  Knox- 
ville  and  the  Vir^nia  routes,  while  it 
is  already  in  daily  and  unbroken  com- 
munication with  the  Atlantic,  via  the 
Nashville  and  Chattanooga  route,  oon> 
neoting  with  the  Geor^pa  railways,  At- 
lanta, Augusta,  SavanQah  and  Charles- 
ton, S.  C,  and  with  Montgomery,  on  the 
at  line  from  New  Tork  to  New  Or- 


leans. 

Ths  H«nniUig«,  Bonne  of  Omiand 
JAtoon*— The  traveller  while  in  this 
vicinage  will  not  fdl  to  make  a  {d^grim- 
age  to  the  spot  sacred  as  the  hearth- 
stone of  the  great  General  and  States- 
man, Andrew  Jackson. 

Mumnhla  is  finely  situated  upon  the 
Tenth  Chickasaw  Bluff  of  the  Missis- 
uppi,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Wolf  River. 
It  is  in  the  south-west  corner  of  the 
State,  upon  the  site  of  Fort  Pickering. 
The  city  presents  a  striking  appearance 
as  seen  from  the  water,  with  its  espla- 
nade several  hundred  feet  in  width 
sweeping  along  the  bluff  and  covered*; 
with  large  warehouses.  It  is  the  chief 
town  on  the  Mississippi,  between  New 
Orleans  and  St.  Louis.  Its  population 
amounted  in  1863  to  over  12,000.  Mem- 
phis is  781  miles  from  New  Orleans,  120 
miles  below  St.  Louis,  and  209  miles 
from  Nashville.  The  Memphis  and 
Charleston  railway  connects  the  city  via 
Chattanooga,  Tenn.,  and  Atlanta  and 
Augusta,  Georgia,  with  the  Atlantic  at 
Savannah,  and  at  Charleston,  S.  C.  A 
rulway  to  Little  .Rocic,  Arkansas,  and 
others  to  Nashville,  are  in  course  of 
construction. 

SnoxviUs  is  upon  the  Ho^^ton  River, 
four  miles  from  its  junction  with  the 
French  Broad :  186  miles  east  of  Nash- 
ville and  204  miles  south-east  of  Lex- 
ington, Kentucky.  It  is  connected  by 
the  East  Tennessee  and  Georgia  railway 
with  all  the  great  routes  of  Georgia  to 
the  Atlantic,  and  with  the  highway  to 
New  Orleans,  via  Montgomery  and  Mo- 
bile, in  Alabama ;  also  by  the  East  Ten- 
nessee and  Virginia  railway,  with  Rich- 
mond, Virginia,  and  all  the  great  thor- 
oughfares of  the  country.  The  great 
route  from  Boston  to  New  Orleans  will 


«« 


\  • 


KENTCOKT. 


81^ 


OluttanoogM  and  other  Towns. 


Boon  paM  through  Ejiozville.  The  city 
is  a  pWsant  and  prosperooa  one,  with 
a  population  at  this  time  of  some  6,000. 
Formerly  it  was  the  capital  of  the  State. 
The  University  of  East  Tennessee, 
founded  in  1807,  is  here.  Here,  too, 
is  the  largest  manufactory  of  window 
glass  in  the  Southern  States. 

Ohattanooga  is  upon  the  Tennessee 
River,  in  the  southern  part  of  the  State, 
where  its  boundary  is  touched  by  Ala- 
bama and  Georgia.  It  is  260  miles  from 
Knoxville  by  water,  and  140  miles 
south-east  of  Nashville.  It  is  a  great 
railway  centre,  being  the  terminus  of 
the  Nashville  and  Chattanooga  route, 
from  Nashville,  beine  also  upon  the 
Georgia  routes,  reaching  to  Knoxville, 
and  thence  through  Virginia ;  and  upon 
the  great  line  from  Charleston,  S.  C,  to 
the  Mississippi  at  Memphis.  The  Ten- 
nessee River  is  navigable  two-thirds  of 
the  year,  and  at  all  times  for  small 
boats,  from  the  Ohio  to  Chattanooga. 
Population  about  4,000.  See  Look-out 
Mountain  in  the  chapter  upon  Georgia 
for  the  beautiful  landscape  surround- 
ings of  Chattanooga. 

Oolumtaia  (population  about  8,000) 
is  upon  the  Duck  River,  41  miles  below 
Nashville,  upon  the  line  of  the  great 
railway  now  in  process  of  construction 
from  Nashville  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico 
and  New  Orleans — ^in  operation  (at  the 
upper  end)  from  Nashville  to  Columbia. 
Jackson  College  is  located  here.    The 


Maury  Female  Acadiemy  occupies  an 
imposing  edifice.  Columbia  was  the 
home  of  Mr.  Polk  before  his  election  in 
1844  to  the  Presidency  of  the  United 
States. 

Muifreesboro'  is  30  miles  below 
Nashville,  on  the  railway  route  via 
Chattanooga,  Atlanta  and  Augusta  to 
Charleston,  Savannah,  etc.  The  town 
is  built  in  a  beautiful  and  picturesque 
valley.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  Union  Uni* 
versity  (Baptist),  established  in  1841. 
Murfreesboro*  was  the  capital  of  Ten- 
nessee 'from  1817  to  1827,  a  pleasant 
and  thriving  town. 

Jaokaon  is  upon  the  Forked  Deer 
River,  180  miles  below  Nashville  by 
stage.  The  Mobile  and  Ohio  railway 
will  pass  here. 

•  Xiebanon,  the  seat  of  the  Cumberland 
University,  is  80  miles  east  of  Nashville 
by  stnge. 

Oavqa  and  Monnda  in  TenoiM- 
■ee. — While  in  Eastern  Tennessee,  the 
traveller  should  not  fail  to  see  some  oi 
the  numerous  caves  in  the  Cumberland 
Mountains.  Upon  the  Enchanted  Rock, 
here,  are  some  singular  impressions  of 
the  feet  of  men  and  animals.  In  Coffee 
County,  not  far  from  Manchester,  there 
is  an  ancient  stone  fort,  enclosed  by  a 
wall,  upon  which  trees  are  growing, 
whose  age  is  supposed  to  exceed  600 
years.  This  laysterious  fortification  is 
situated  between  two  rivers,  and  occu- 
pies an  area  of  47  acres. 


KENTUCKY. 

"  The  highest  phase  of  Western  character,"  says  Mr.  Tuckerman,  "  is  doubt- 
less to  be  found  in  Kentucky,  and  in  one  view  best  illustrates  the  American  in 
distinction  from  European  civUization.  In  the  North,  this  is  essentially  modified 
by  the  cosmopolite  influence  of  the  seaboard,  and  in  the  South  by  a  climate 
which  assimilates  her  people  with  those  of  the  same  latitudes  elsewhere ;  but  in 
the  West,  and  especially  in  Kentu'cky,  we  find  the  foundations  of  social  existence 
laid  by  the  hunter — whose  love  of  the  woods,  equality  of  condition,  habits  of 
sport  and  agriculture,  and  distance  from  conventionalities,  combine  to  nourish 
independence,  strength  of  mind,  candor,  and  a  fresh  and  genial  spirit.  The  ease 
and 'freedom  of  social  intercourse,  the  abeyance  of  the  passion  for  gain,  and  the 
scope  given  to  the  play  of  character,  accordingly  developed  a  race  of  noble  apti- 
tudes; and  we  can  scarcely  imagine  a  more  appropriate  figure  in  the  foreground 
of  the  picture  than  Daniel  Boone,  who  embodies  the  honesty,  intelligence,  and 
ohivabic  spirit  of  the  State." 


818 


KXSTUOtCt, 


I  ' 


HlstorioAl  Mention— The  Kentveky  and  other  BlTera. 


The  first  Tiflit  of  Boone  to  the  wildernesseB  of  Kentucky  #a8  sbout  the  year 
1*769,  at  which  period  he  and  his  hardy  companions  made  the  ekrliest  settlement 
at  Boonesborough.  In  1774,  Harrodsburg  was  begun,  and  Lexington  a  year  or 
two  afterward^  The  pioneers  in  their  western  forests  met  with  aD  the  adven* 
ture  their  hearts  could  desire — more,  indeed ;  for  so  great  was  their  exposure 
and  suffering,  for  many  long  years,  from  the  cruel  enmity  of  the  savage  popula- 
tions, that  the  country  came  tO  be  known  as  "  the  dark  and  bloody  ground."  A 
memorable  battle  was  fought  near  the  Blue  Uck  Springs,  Aug.  19, 1782,'  between 
the  Kentuckians  and  the  Indians — an  unequal  and  lUiastrous  conffict,  in  which 
the  colonists  were  routed,  with  a  losb  of  sixty  men,  amtmg  them!  a  son  of  the 
gallant  Boone. 

In  1778,  Da  Quesne,  with  his  Canadian  and  Indian  army,  was  briavely  re- 
pulsed at  Boonesborough.  Kentucky  came  into  the  Union  m  1792,  being  the 
second  State  admitted  after  the  Revolution. 

The  physical  aspect  of  Kentucky  is  one  of  changing  and  wonderM  beauty,  as 
we  shall  see  in  subsequent  visits  to  some  of  her  marvellous  natuml  scenes.  The 
Cumberland  Mountains  traverse  the  eastern  counties,  and  a  line  6f  hills  follows 
the  course  of  the  Ohio  River,  with  meadow  stretches  between,  sometimes  ten, 
and  even  twenty  miles  in  width.  The  State  is  well  supplied  with  coal,  iron,  and 
other  miner^    Salt  and  mineral  sprhigs  of  great  repute  abound. 

The  chief  agricultural  stajdes  of  this  region  are  hemp,  flax,  tobacco,  and  Indian 
com :  of  the  first  two  of  these  products,  a  greater  quantity  is  raised  here  than 
in  any  other  State.  In  tobacco,  Kentucky  is  second  oidy  to  Virginia,  and  in  the 
product  of  Indian  com  she  is  behind  Ohio  alone. 


Biwwnkr— The  Ohio  River  forms  the 
entire  northern  boundary  of  Kentucky, 
and  the  Mississippi  washes  all  her  west- 
ern shore;  thus  giving  her,  with  the 
ud  of  the  many  streams  which  come 
from  the  interior  of  the  State  into  these 
great  highways,  the  greatest  possible 
Mcilities  for  the  transportation  of  her 
stimles  to  all  markets. 

The  Kentucky  River,  like  most  of 
the  streams  here,  is  remarkable  for  pic- 
turesque beauty ;  its  passage,  in  a  course 
of  200  miles,  north-west,  to  the  Ohio,  is 
often  through  bold  limestone  ledges, 
ranged  on  either  side  of  the  narrow 
dark  channel  in  grand  perpendicular 
cliffs.  "Deepen  Trenton  Falls,"  says 
Mr.  Willis,  **  for  one  or  two  hundred 
feet,  smooth  its  cascades  into  a  river, 
and  extend  it  for  thirty  miles — thirty 
mites  between  perpendicular  precipices, 
from  three  to  five  hundred  feet  high, 
and  only  a  biscuit-toss  across  at  the  top 
—and  you  have  a  river  of  whose  re- 
markable beauty  the  world  is  strangely 
ignorant." 

The  OumberUoid  Biver  is  one  of 


the  largest  of  the  tributaries  of  the 
Ohio.  It.  has  its  source  in  the  Cumber- 
land Mountains,  in  the  south-east  comer 
of  the  State,  and  flows  600  miles,  mak- 
ing a  bend  into  Tennessee,  and  then 
traversing  western  Kentucky.  It  is 
navigable  for  steamers  200  miles  to 
Nashville,  and  sometimes  to  Carthage, 
while  small  craft  may  ascend  800  miles 
yet  higher.  About  14  miles  from  Wil- 
liamsburg there  is  a  flne  fall  of  60  feet 
perpendicular  in  this  river. 

^nie  Ificking  River  flows  from  the 
Cumberland  Mountains,  200  miles,  into 
the  Ohio,  opposite  Cincinnati.  Steam- 
boats may  ascend  60  miles  to  Falmouth. 
This  river  varies  in  width  from  60  to 
100  yards.  Its  banks  are  often  lofty 
and  precipitous,  covered  with  huge 
forest  trees.  The  South  Licking  and 
the  North  Fork  are  among  its  tributa- 
ries. 

Green  River  is  about  800  miles  in 
length.  It  rises  in  the  eastern  section 
of  the  State,  and  flows  westward  for 
some  160  miles,  through  the  limestone 
regions  and  by  the  Mammoth  Cave,  final« 


;  . 


KXNTUOKT. 


810 


BlTem— IUUw«y»-Clty  of  LontsvlDe. 


ee,  and  then 


Soono  OL  the  Kentaoky  Btrer. 


entering  the  Ohio  idne  miles  above 
ETansviUe  in  Indiana.  It  is  navigable 
in  high  water,  and  by  the  aid  of  locks 
and  dams,  for  steamboats,  200  miles  to 
Greensburg.      * 

Salt  Bivwr,  named  in  token  of  the 
Salt  Springs  which  abound  in  its  vicini- 
ty, enters  the  Ohio  22  miles  below  Lou- 
isville. This  is  the  fabled  retreat  of  de- 
tlBated  politicians  and  other  unhappy 
adventurers. 

TbB  Tenneiwe  RiTer  rises  among 
the  Cumberland  Mountains  of  Eastern 
Kentucky,  and  flows  10  miles  within  the 
Umits  of  this  State.    (See  Tennessee.) 

Ridlwaya.  Covington  and  Lexing- 
ton, 99  miles  south  from  Covington,  on 
the  Ohio,  opposite  Cincinnati,  to  Lex- 
ington, on  a  branch  of  the  Elkhorn  river, 
via  Falmouth. 

Louisville  and  Frankfort  and  Lexing- 
ton and  Frankfort  Railways,  94  miles 
from  Louibville,  on  the  Ohio,  to  Lexing- 
ton via  Frankfort. 

Louisville  and  Nashville.  Portions 
of  this  road  from  Louisville  south  are 
in  operation ;  the  rest  is  in  progress. 
Many  routes,  traverdng  the  State  in 
every  direction,  are  in  course  of  con- 
struction, and  others  stiU  are  proposed. 

Oity  oi  Louisville.  To  reach  Lou- 
isville from  Boston,  New  York,  Phila- 
delphia, Baltimore,  and   intermediate 


{daces,  see  Cincinnati  and  routes  to  that 
city.  From  Cincinnati,  take  the  steam- 
er down  the  Ohio  river,  18S  miles  to 
Louisville;  or  take  the  Ohio  and  Mis- 
sissippi Railway  8*7  miles  to  Seymour, 
and  thence  by  the  Jeffersonvllle  Rail* 
way  69  miles  to  Jeffersonvllle,  opposite 
Louisville.  l%is  t«  the  beat  land  route. 
Total  distance  to  Louisville  from  Cin- 
cinnati, 146  miles.  Louisville  may  also 
be  reached  less  directly,  from  Clncmnati 
by  the  Kentucky  Railways,  the  Coving- 
ton and  Lexington,  99  miles  to  Lexing- 
ton, and  thence  by  the  Louisville  and 
Lexington,  via  Frankfort,  94  miles; 
from  Cincinnati  to  Louisville,  by  this 
route,  198  miles.  Louisville  may  be 
reached  from  Pittsburg,  western  termi- 
nus of  the  Pennsylvania  Railway,  fkt>m 
Philadelphia  or  from  Wheeling,  western 
terminus  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio 
Rdlway  from  Baltimore,  by  steamboat 
down  the  Ohio.  From  St.  Louis  there 
is  a  direct  Rfdlway  communication  by 
the  new  route  of  the  Ohio  and  Missis- 
sippi road  from  Oncinnati  to  St.  Louis. 
The  way  heretofore  has  been  by  routes 
higher  up ;  the  ''  Terre  Haute  and  Al- 
ton** to  Indianapolis,  and  thence  by  the 
Jeffersonvllle  Railway. 

Hotels.  The  Gait  House,  pleasantly 
situated  on  Main  street ;  the  Louisville 
Hotel,  also  on  Main  street. 


820 


KBNTUCKY. 


Glty  of  LoolSTille . 


Louisvillo,  with  a  population  of  about 
60,000,  is  the  chief  city  of  Kentuclcy. 
Its  position  is  at  the  Falls  of  the  Ohio, 
where  Grass  Oreelc  enters  La  Belle  Jii- 
viere.  The  topography  is  most  agree- 
able, affording  fine  views  from  many 
parts  of  the  terrace  elevation  of  '70 
feet. 

The  Falls,  which  are  quite  picturesque 
in  appearance,  may  be  seen  from  tlie 
town.  In  high  stages  of  the  water  they 
almost  entirely  disappear,  and  steam< 
boats  pass  over  them ;  but  when  the 
water  is  low,  the  whole  width  of  the 
river,  which  is  scarcely  less  than  a  mile, 
has  the  appearance  of  a  great  many 
broken  rivers  of  foam,  making  their 
way  over  the  falls^  The  river  is  divided 
by  a  fine  island,  which  adds  to  the 
beauty  of  the  scene.  To  obviate  the 
obstruction  t«  the  navigation  caused  by 
the  falls,  a  canal  two  and  a  half  miles 
in  length  has  been  cut  round  them,  to 
a  place  called  Sbippingsport.  It  was  a 
work  of  immense  labor,  being,  for  the 
greater  part  of  its  course,  cut  through 
the  solid  rock.  The  extent  of  th0  city 
river-wards  is  over  two  miles.      The 


course  of  the  leading  streets  is  in  this 
directi«n.  They  are,  for  the  most  part, 
wide,  well  paved,  apd  delightfhlly  shaded 
with  noble  trees. 

The  chief  points  of  architectural  dis* 
play  are  in  the  edifices  of  the  City  Hall, 
the  Court  House,  the  University  of 
Louisville,  the  Medical  Institute,  the 
Blind  Asylum,  the  Mercantile  Library 
and  the  Historical  Association,  and  St. 
Paul's  (EpiscoiMd),  and  the  Fhrst  Pres- 
byterian church. 

Silver  Oreekf  4  miles  below  the  city, 
on  the  Indiana  side  (cross  by  ferry  f^om 
Portland),  is  a  beautiful  rooky  stream, 
and  a  favorite  fishing  and  pic-nio  place 
of  the  Louisville  ruralisers.  There  is  a 
small  but  fair  Hotel  here.  Another 
pleasant  excursion  is  to  the  mouth  of 
Harrod's  Greek,  8  miles  up  the  Ohio. 
There  are,  too,  famous  drives  on  the 
Lexington  and  Bardstown  turnpikes, 
through  a  beautiful  and  richly  cultivated 
country.  The  road  along  the  borders 
of  Bear  Grass  Creek,  Lexington-wards, 
is  very  agreeable.  The  fine  forest  veg- 
etation, the  charming  parklike  groves, 
the  hemp  fields  and  the  blue  grass  paai> 


LoulSTille,  Kentucky. 


KJBNTUUKT. 


821 


LonlBTlHe  ud  Adiluid— Coyliigtoii. 


tures,  all  help  to  Airniflh  forth  deUght 
in  the  LouisTille  suburban  rides  and 
rambles. 

Louisville  Is  connected  with  Frank* 
fort,  65  miles  distant,  by  Railway,  and 
with  Lexington,  94  miles.  A  Railway 
to  Nashville  is  in  progress,  and  partly 
in  operation,  by  which  route  the  tour- 
ist will  be  put  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
borhood of  the  Mammoth  Cave. 

XiSKiiigtoii.  From  Cincinnati,  by 
the  Lexington  and  Covington  Railway, 
99  miles :  from  LouisvUle,  by  the  Louis- 
ville and  Frankfort  and  Lexington  and 
Frankfort,  94  miles. 

Uotala.  7%«  Broadway  House,  cor- 
ner of  Broadway  and  Short  streets. 

Lexington,  upon  the  Town  Fork  of 
the  Elkhom  River,  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  and  most  opulent  of  the  Ken- 
tucky cities.  In  population  (about 
18,000)  it  is  the  second  place  in  the 
State.  The  streets  are  regular,  broad, 
well-paved,  well-built,  and  delightfully 
shaded.  Here  is  the  seat  of  the  TVan- 
sytvania  Uhiver$itjf,  the  Law  and  Medi- 
eal  schools  of  which  are  held  in  high  re- 
pute. The  Vhivernity  Librarjt  numbers 
over  14,000  volumes.  The  State  Luna- 
tie  Aaylwn  occupies  a  prominent  locale. 

A  monument  in  honor  of  Henry  Clay, 
whose  home  of  Ashland  is  close  by,  is 
about  to  be  erected  in  Lexington.  This 
city  was  once  the  Capital  of  Kentucky. 

Aahland,  the  Bom*  of  Olay.  The 
impretending  abode  of  the  great  west- 
em  statesman,  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
from  Lexington,  and  is,  of  course,  the 
chief  object  of  interest  to  the  visitor  in 
this  neighborhood.  "  Wdking  slowly 
and  thoughtihlly  up,"  says  Mr.  Greeley, 
"a  noble  avenue  that  leads  easterly 
from  Lexington,  the  traveller  finds  the 
road  terminating  abruptly  in  front  of  a 
modest,  spacious,  agreeable  mansion, 
only  two  stories  in  height,  and  of  no 
great  arcUtectural  pretensions.  Mr. 
Clay  lived  at  Ashland  between  forty 
and  fifty  years.  The  place  bore  the 
name  when  he  went  to  it,  probably,  as 
he  said  himself,  on  account  of  the  ash 
timber  with  which  it  abounds,  and  he 
made  it  one  of  the  most  delightful  re- 
treats in  all  the  West.  The  estate 
14* 


is  about  600  acres  ^rge,   all  under 
the  highest  cultivation,  except  some 
200  acres  of  park,  which  is  entirely 
cleared  of  underbrush  and  small  trees, 
and  is,  to  use  the  words  of  Lord  Mor- 
peth, who  stayed  at  AshUmd  nearly  a 
week,    the   nearest   approach    to   an 
English  park  of  any  in  this  country. 
It  serves  for  a  noble  pasture,  and  here 
Mr.  Clay  had  some  of  the  finest  horses 
and  Durham  cattle  in  America.    The 
larger  part  of  the  farm  is  devoted  to 
wheat,  rye,  hemp,  etc.,  and  the  crops 
look  most  splendid.    Mr.  Clay    paid 
great  attention  to  Ihe  ornamentation  of 
the  land  with  beautiM  shade  trees, 
shrubs,   flowers,  and   fruit   orchards. 
From  the  road  which  passes  the  place 
on  the  north-west  side,  a  carriage-way 
leads  up  to  the  house,  lined  with  locust, 
cypress,  cedar,  and  other  rare  trees,  and 
the  rose,   jasmine,  and  ivy    clamber 
about  them,  and  peep  through  the  grass 
and  the  boughs  like  so  many  twinkling 
fairies.    The  mansion  is  nearly  hidden 
from  the  road  by  the  surrounding  trees ; 
and  is  as  quiet  and  secluded,  save  to  the 
throng  of  pilgrims  continually  pouring 
thither,  as  though  it  were  a  wilderness. 
After  the  death  of  Mr.  Clay,  the  estate 
of  Ashland  was  sold  at  public  auction, 
but  was  purchased  by  James  B.  Clay, 
the  ereat  statesman's  eldest  son,  and  so 
the  nonored  and  beloved  little  home- 
stead remains  yet,  happily,  in  the  family 
possession.    Let  it  be  sacredly  and  for 
ever  preserved." 

Oowington,  opposite  Cincinnati  (see 
routes  from  all  points  to  Cincinnati),  is 
one  of  the  principal  cities  of  Kentucky, 
with  a  population  of  about  14,000.  It 
is  upon  the  Ohio,  immediately  below 
the  point  where  the  Licking  River  comes 
in.  Across  the  Licking  is  the  suburban 
town  of  Newport.  Steam  ferries  unite 
it  with  Cincinnati,  and  the  great  sus- 
pension bridge  (see  Cincinnati)  will 
soon  make  a  yet  better  means  of  commu- 
nication thence.  Covington  is  built  upon 
a  broad  and  beautiful  plain,  very  much 
after  the  topography  of  the  great  Ohio 
city  opposite,  to  which,  indeed,  it  may 
be  regarded  as  suburban.  This  is  the 
I  seat  of  the  Wutem  Theologieal  College^ 


822 


KSSTVVKT, 


Fnnkfbr^— HkiTodaburg  Bprlnp  Mid  ottaar  pli 


t\ 


ft  prosperous  and  riohly-endowed  in- 
stitution. There  are  liere  large  mana* 
factories  of  cotton,  hemp,  sillc,  and 
tobacco.  The  place,  too,  lilie  Cincin- 
nati, is  geatly  addicted  to  the  salting 
and  packing  of  pork  and  beef. 

Newport,  across  the  Licking  River 
ft-oin  Covington,  has  a  population  of 
about  9,000.  Uke  the  neighboring 
cities  of  Covington  and  Cincinnati,  to 
which  it  owes  its  prosperity,  it  is  de- 
lightfully and  advantageously  situated. 
It  will  probably  soon  absorb  the  large 
a<]|joining  villages  of  Jamestown  and 
Brooklyn. 

Frankfort,  the  capital  of  Kentucky, 
is  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Ken- 
tucky River,  60  miles  above  its  entrance 
into  the  Ohio.  The  site  of  the  town  is 
a  deep  valley,  surrounded  by  precipi- 
tous nills.  The  river  flows  in  deep 
limestone  banks ;  the  quarries  of  which 
yield  a  fine  stone,  or  marble,  of  which 
manv  of  the  houses  are  built.  The 
heights  on  the  north-east,  afford  fine 
peeps  at  the  beautiM  scenery  of  the 
Kentucky  waters.  The  State  Capitol 
occupies  an  eminence,  midway  between 
the  river  and  the  upper  end  of  the  val- 
lej.  It  is  a  fine  structure,  built  of 
marble,  quarried  in  the  neighborhood. 
Here,  too,  is  the  State  Penitentiary. 
The  town  is  connected  with  the  village 
of  South  Frankfort,  across  the  river,  by 
a  chain  bridge.  Population  some  6,000. 
Distance  firom  Louisville,  by  the  Louis- 
ville and  Frankfort  Railway,  65  miles; 
from  Lexington,  by  the  Frankfort  and 
Lexington  Railway,  29  miles ;  firom  Cin- 
cinnati, by  railways  via  Lexington,  128 
miles. 

BCftyfTlll*  (population  some  8,000), 
is  upon  the  Ohio  River,  60  miles  above 
Cincinnati,  and  60  miles  north-east  of 
Lexington,  from  CSnoinnati  by  steam- 
boat. At  Portsmouth,  Ohio,  some  50 
miles  abovct  on  the  Ohio  River,  railway 
lines  come  in  from  all  parts  of  the 
country,  north  and  east.  Maysville  is 
upon  Limestone  Creek,  whose  name  it 
formerly  bore.  The  position  of  the 
town  is  in  the  midst  of  a  varied  hill- 
landscape.  It  is,  in,  business  and  popu- 
lation, tiie  fourth  city  of  Kentucky,  and 


its  greatest  hemp  mart.  This  is  the 
entrepot  for  the  merohiMid^  >nd  pro* 
duce  imported  and  exported  by  the 
north-west  section  of  the  State.  Rail- 
ways will  soon  connect  it  with  other 
points. 

Paduofth  (population  nealv  4,0001 
is  upon  the  Ohio,  Just  below  the  moutn 
of  the  Tennessee,  840  miles  from  Louis- 
ville; 478  miles  from  Cincinnati.  Pa- 
ducah  bears  the  name  of  an  Indian 
chief  who  onoe  lived  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. 

Bazxodabniy,  a  town  of  over  8,000 

Esople,  and  the  oldest  settlement  in 
entucky,  is  upon  an  eminence  near 
Salt  River,  about  80  miles  below  Frank- 
fort and  Lexington.  The  first  cabin 
ever  built  in  the  State  was  erected  here 
by  Captain  James  Harrod,  in  1774. 
Here  is  the  seat  of  JBaeon  College,  and 
of  a  MUitary  Aeademv.  The  greatest 
attraction,  however,  of  Harrodu>urv,  is 
its  celebrated  mineral  springs,  which 
make  it  the  most  fiimous  summer  re- 
sort of  all  the  country  round. 
•  Harrodtbiuv  SpilBga.  See  Har- 
rodaburffy  ante.  This  is  one  of  the  most 
fashionable  watering  places  of  Ken- 
tucky, and  is,  in  the  crowded  season  of 
July  and  August,  *'the  grand  field  of 
tournament  for  Western  flirtation,  and 
the  gathering  point  for  politicians 
out  of  harness,  and  for  such  wealthy 
Westerners  and  Southerners  as  like  to^ 
spend  their  monev  on  the  side  of  the 
Alleganies  that  mopes  towards  home." 
The  hotel  here  with  all  its  surroundings 
and  appointments,  is  most  admirable. 
Dr.  Graham,  the  liberal  proprietor,  has 
already  expended  more  than  $800,000 
upon  the  embellishment  of  the  ^ace, 
and  so  expended  it,  that  it  all  sensibly 
contributes  to  the  comforts  and  ei\joy 
ments  of  his  guests. 

Knob  ZiioiE  is  an  interesting  spot, 
within  excursion  distance  of  the  Har- 
rodsburg  Springs,-— 16  miles  distant. 
The  knobs  or  hiUocks  here  are  from 
100  to  200  feet  high,  more  or  less  coni- 
cal, some  of  them  Insulated,  others  con- 
nected by  crumbling  isthmuses;  the 
whole  forming  a  group  of  barren  oo- 
noidal  eminences,  which  are  finely  con- 


RKNTUOKY. 


828 


Wfttcring  PlM«»-lI»tanl  CnriotltiiM— W«t«rfUU. 


trastod  with  the  deep  rerdure  of  the 
■urrounding  pldn. 

The  Drril*»  Pulpit  is  s  wonderM 
rook  and  ravine ;  a  paisage  in  the  bold 
landaoape  in  the  Kentucky  River,  aoces- 
sible  fh)m  Harrodaburg  in  a  twenty-mile 
excursion. 

The  Bin*  ZJok  Bpringi  is  a  water- 
ing place  of  high  repute,  on  the  Licking 
River,  in  Nioholae  County.  Easily 
reached  by  stage  iVom  Paris,  a  station 
on  the  Covington  and  Lexington  Rail- 
way; 19  miles  from  Lexington;  80 
miles  from  Covington,  opposite  Cincin- 
nati. These  springs  contain  soda,  mag- 
nesia, lime,  sulphuretted  hydrogen,  and 
oarbonio  acid,  in  combination  with 
muriates  and  sulphates. 

Drannon  Springi  (black  and  salt 
sulphur),  are  upon  the  banks  of  the 
Kentucky,  in  Henry  County.  They 
may  be  reached  by  steamboat  from 
Louisville. 

Poplar  Mtonntaln  Spring!  are  upon 
the  Poplar  Mountidn  top,  in  Clinton 
County,  four  miles  from  Albany.  The 
scenery  in  this  vicinage  is  of  remark- 
able beauty.  Upon  Indian  Creek,  not 
far  from  the  springs,  there  is  a  fine 
waterfall,  of  90  feet  perpendicular  de- 
scent 

The  White  Snlplinr  Sprinp  are  in 
Grayson  County,  four  miles  from  Litch- 
field. They  are  very  numerous  within 
a  small  area. 

The  Tar  and  Braokaoridge  White 
Sulphur  Spring!  are  in  Breckenridge 
County,  four  miles  from  Cloverport. 
They  are  readily  accessible  from  the 
Ohio  River.  The  Breckenridge  coal  is 
found  in  this  vicinity. 

The  Tar  and  Sulphur  Spring!  are 
upon  Green  River,  in  Davies  County, 
near  the  "Old  Vernon  Settlements." 
There  are  other  springs  of  reputation 
in  this  vicinity. 

The  Baoulapia  Spring!,  Chalybeate, 
and  White  Sulphur,  are  in  a  beautiful 
valley  of  Lewis  County. 

The  Fox  and  the  Phillipa'  Spring! 
are  in  the  abundant  spring  region  of 
Fleming  County. 

The  Iiettonian  Spring!  (sulphur), 
are  upon  the  Bank  Lick  Road,  near  the 


Ohio  River,  tnd  abouti  four  miles  from 
Covington.  This  is  a  pleasant  exour- 
sion  point  (Irom  Cincinnati. 

The  Panroqnat  BDringl  are  near 
Sheppardsville,  in  Bullitt  County. 

The  Sink  Bolaa  of  Kantooky.  Of 
these  curious  cavities  or  depresnons  in 
the  sur&ce  of  the  ground,  known  as 
sinks,  remarkable  examples  are  found 
in  Kentucky.  Sinking  Creek  in  Breck- 
enridge County  suddenly  disappears, 
and  is  not  seen  again  within  a  distance 
of  half  a  dozen  miles.  Near  Mumford- 
viUe,  in  Harts  County,  there  is  a  strange 
spring  connected  with  a  mill-pond,  the 
waters  of  whloh  overflow  the  dam  every 
twenty-four  hours,  rising  12  or  16 
inches,  and  receding  to  their  ordinary 
level  with  the  precision  of  the  tides. 
Six  miles  east  of  the  same  town,  there 
is  a  hole,  in  form  like  an  inverted  cone, 
which  is  70  feet  in  diameter  at  the  sur- 
face, and  but  10  or  12  feet  across,  at  a 
depth  of  26  or  80  feet.  Stones  oast 
into  this  pit^  give  no  indication  of 
touching  the  Mrttom.  There  is  yet 
another  extraordinuy  idnk  hi  this  neigh- 
borhood, on  the  top  <tf  an  elevaUon, 
called  Frenchman's  Knob.  It  hat  been 
descended  by  means  of  a  rope,  276 
feet,  but  without  flncUng  bottom. 

Natural  Bri^gUb  There  is  an  extra- 
ordinary natural  Bridge  in  the  romantic 
county  of  Christian.  It  makes  a  grand 
span  of  70  feet,  and  is  8P  feet  high. 

X>iamal  Rook  is  a  frowning  pre> 
oipice,  160  feet  high,  hi  Edmonson 
County. 

Onmherland  Qapb  This  passage  of 
the  Cumberland  River  through  the 
mountuns,  in  Knox  County,  is  an  im- 
posing scene.  The  waters  make  their 
way  between  huge  cliflb,  1,800  feet  in 
height. 

Waterfalla.  Besides  the  cascades 
of  the  Indian  Creek,  near  Poplar  Moun- 
tain, of  which  we  have  already  made 
mention,  there  are  numerous  beautiM 
waterfalls  among  the  bills  of  Kentucky. 
The  Kentick  Greek  in  Cumberland 
County,  presents  some  fine  pictures  of 
this  kind.  The  traveller  must  not  over- 
look, either,  if  his  time  serves  for  the 
exploration,  the  Rock  House  in  Com- 


824 


KENTUCKY. 


Natnral  Wonders— Mammoth  Gaye. 


berland;  the  Indian  Rock  in  Edmon- 
son ;  Pilot  Rock  in  Christian ;  and  the 
Flat  and  the  Anvil  Rocks  in  Union 
County. 

The'  Monnds  and  Fortifioatioiia, 
which  are  numerous  in  Kentucky,  a£fora 
employment  enough  for  the  antiquarian 
tourist.  In  Allen  County,  1*7  miles  from 
Bowling  Green,  there  is  a  wall  of  solid 
limestone,  200  yards  in  length,  40  feet 
high ;  at  its  base,  80  feet  thick,  and 
at  its  summit,  6  feet.  It  crosses  a 
neck  formed  of  a  curve  in  Drake's 
Creek,  and  shuts  in  a  peninsula  of  about 
200  acres,  elevated  100  feet  above  the 
river.    Upon  the  crown  of  this  emi- 


nence, an  area  of  three  aocres  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  wall  and  ditch,  making 
the  place  a  fortress  of  immense  strength. 
Other  strange  ancient  works,  older  than 
tradition,  may  be  found  in  Warren, 
Spencer,  Boone,  La  Rue,  Montgomery, 
Barren,  and  Bourbon  Counties. 

The  Big  Bone  licks  of  Boone 
County  exhibit  the  great  bones  of  the 
Mastodon,  and  other  extinct  animids. 
Curious  fossil  remains  are  found  in 
Bourbon  County.  Impressions  of  the 
feet  of  men  and  of  animals  may  be 
seen  in  a  rock  near  Morganfield,  in 
Union  County. 
1     The  Mammoth  Oav«.    Many  and 


Th«  Oothio  Chap«l,  Mammoth  Cave,  Ky. 


KENTUCKT. 


82{^ 


The  Mammoth  Cave. 


varied  as  are  the  natural  beauties  and 
wonders  in  Kentucky,  the  most  strange 
and  magnificent  of  them  all  remains  yet 
to  be  seen  in  the  weird  balls  and  cham- 
bers of  the  famous  Mammoth  Gave. 

Route.  Tourists  from  the  Eastern 
cities  will  reach  the  Mammoth  Cave  via 
Cincinnati  and  Louisville,  and  proceed 
thence  by  the  Louisville  and  Nashville 
Railway,  and  by  stage.  The  railway 
passes,  or  will  pass,  within  10  miles  of 
the  cave.  From  the  South  and  West, 
travellers  will  take  the  stage  route  from 
Nashville  for  Louisville,  stopping  at 
Bell's.  Steamers  ply  on  the  Oreen 
River  from  Louisville,  to  within  a  mile 
only  of  the  cave. 

The  Mammoth  Cave  is  in  Edmonson 
County,  south  of  the  centre  of  the  State. 

BeWa  Hotel  is  the  ante-room — ^the 
head-quarters  of  its  visitors.  It  is  nine 
miles  distant  by  a  romantic  forest  road. 
The  cave  is  suf^sed  to  extend  under 
the  ground  paued  over  in  this  journey 
of  nine  miles  from  Bell's.  The  Cave 
Hotel  is  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
grand  Futonian  hall8,but  200  feet  indeed 
from  the  gloomy  portals.  The  journey 
through  these  stupendous  vaiuts  and 
passages  is  long  and  toilsome,  despite 
the  marvels  wmoh  every  where  be- 
guile the  way.  As  it  takes  days  to  see 
these  wonderful  scenes,  so  it  would  re- 
quire many  pages  to  describe  them, 
which  compels  us  to  be  content  with 
the  briefest  catalogue  of  the  chief  points 
of  interest. 

After  exploring  the  ante-chambers  and 
the  Audubon  Avenue,  which  is  a  mile 
in  length,  00  or  60  feet  high,  and  as 
many  wide,  we  return  and  pass  through 
the  vestibide  for  a  second  time,  entering 
the  main  cave  or  Orand  Gallery,  a 
mighty  tunnel  of  many  miles  extent. 
The  Kentucky  Oliffis  passed,  we  descend 
some  20  feet  to  the  Church.  This  is  a 
grand  apartment,  100  feet  in  diameter, 
with  a  ro9f  formed  of  one  solid  seam- 
less rock,  suspended  03  feet  overhead. 
Nature  has  supplied  these  solemn  halls 
with  a  natural  pulpit,  and  a  recess  where 
a  mighty  organ  and  a  countless  choir 
could  be  placed.  Religious  services 
have  been  performed  in  the  dim  reli- 


gious light  of  torches, :  under  this  mag- 
nificent roof.  The  Oothie  Avenue  is 
reached  by  a  ditour  from  the  main  cave, 
and  a  descent  of  some  30  feet.  It  is 
two  miles  in  length,  40  fieet  wide  and  15 
feet  high.  This  place  was  once  called 
the  Haunted  Chamber.  Louisa's  Bower, 
Vulcan's  Furnace,  and  the  new  and  old 
Register  Rooms,  are  now  passed  in  suc- 
cession. The  Gothic  Chapel  rivals  all 
the  marvels  of  the  highest  and  nicest 
art,  in  the  strength,  beauty  and  propor- 
tions of  its  grand  columns,  and  its  ex- 
quisite ornamentation.  The  Devil's 
Arm  Chair  is  a  larce  stalagmite  pillar, 
in  the  centre  of  which  is  a  spacious  seat, 
grand  enough  for  the  gods.  After  pass- 
ing numerous  other  stalactites  and  sta- 
lagmites, we  look,  in  succession,  at  Na- 
pdeon's.  Breast  Work,  the  Elephant's 
Head,  and  the  Lover's  Leap.  This  last 
scene  is  a  large  pointed  rock,  more  than 
90  feet  above  the  floor,  and  projecting 
into  a  grand  rotunda.. 

Just  below  the  Lover's  Leap,  AdStour 
may  be  made  to  the  lower  branch  of 
the  Gothic  Avenue,  at  the  entrance  of 
which  we  may  see  an  immense  flat  rock, 
called  Gate  wood's  Dtning  Room;  and 
to  the  right,  a  beaatifiil  basin  of  water; 
named  uie  Cooling  Tub.  Beyond  is 
FUnt  Pit.  Still  punning  our  cUtourj  we 
pass,  one  iller  the  other.  Napoleon's 
Dome,  the  Cinder  Banks,  the  Crystal 
Pool,  the  Salts  Cave,  and  a  wonderful 
place,  still  beyond,  called  Annetti's 
Dome,  through  a  crevice  of  which  a 
waterfitU  comes. 

Reentering  the  main  Cave  or  the 
Grand  Avenue,  we  arrive,  soon,  at  the 
Ball  Room,  where  Nature  has  provided 
every  necessary  fitting  of  gaUery  and 
orchestra.  Willie's  Spring  has  its  pleas- 
ant story,  which  will  delight  the  won* 
dering  visitor  until  he  is  called  upon  for 
astoniahment  at  the  sight  of  the  great 
rock,  known  as  the  Giant's  Coffin. 

Here  begin  the  incrustations,  ever 
varied  in  form  and  character,  which  are 
so  much  the  delight  of  all  visitors.  The 
Giant's  Coffin  passed,  wo  sweep  round 
with  the  Great  Bend.  Opposite  is  ihe 
Sick  Room.  Hereabouts  there  is  a  row 
of  cabins  for  consumptive  patients. 


ilk:- 


SSft 


KBNTU09LT. 


i'   '■  .     '.   ■         •■■■;'    '^ 


The  Mtmmoth  Gftre. 


r,    ,■  .i  . 


The  Ster  OhuDber,  Mammofh  Care,  Kf. 


TIU  Star  Chamber  i»  a  splendid 
hall,  with  perpendioular  arolies  on  eacli 
side,  Mid  a  flat  root  The  side  roolu 
are  of  a  light  color,  and  are  strongly 
lelieTed  aj^nst  the  dai1(  ceiling,  wmoh 
Is  coTcred  with  countless  sparkling  sub- 
stances, resembling  stars. 

l%e  CfroM  Room,  has  a  ceiling  of 
1*70  feet  span,  wad  yet  not  a  single  pillar 
to  uphold  it.  The  Blacic  Ohambers  con- 
tain ruins  which  remind  us  of  old  ba> 
ronial  castle  walls  and  towers.  Through 
the  Big  Ghimneys  we  ascend  into  an 
upper  room,  about  the  size  of  the  main 
cave.    Here   are  heard   the  pli^ntiTe 


whispers  of  a  distant  waterftU ;  as  we 
come  nearer,  the  sound  swells  into  a 
grand  roar,  and  we  are  close  to  the  cat- 
aract. '  To  enter  the  place  called  the 
Solitary  Chambers,  by  the  way  of  the 
Humble  Chute,  we  have  to  crawl  upon 
our  hands  and  knees  for  16  or  18  feet 
beneath  a  low  arch.  Here  is  the  Fairy 
Grotto,  the  character  pi  which  admi- 
rably realizes  the  promise  of  its  name. 
The  Chief  City  or  Temple,  is  an  im- 
mense vault  two  acres  in  area,  corered 
by  a  solid  rocky  dome,  120  feet  high. 
Other  localities,  in  the  direct  passage  of 
the  cave,  as  iA  some  of  the  manr  dii(Min^ 


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OHIO. 


327 


0«ne»l  Benutrlu— Kiven. 


are  appropriately  named  the  Steeps  of 
IStne,  the  Covered  Pit,  the  Side  Saddle, 
andthf  Bottomless  Pit ;  the  Labyrinth, 
the  Dead  Sea,  the  Bandit's  Hall,  and 
the  River  Styx,  and  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains. Indeed,  the  entire  nomenclature 
of  the  crowding  objects  rich  and  strange, 
would  fill  a  volume.  The  visitor  must 
put  himself  under  the  guidance  of 
"  Stephen,"  tbe-immortal  Prospero  of 
the  place,  and  see  and  hear  all  and  all 
about,  every  thing  for  himself. 

No  more  serious  accident,  it  is 
said,  than  an  occasional  stumble,  has 
ever  been  known  to  occur.  Colds,  hi- 
stead  of  being  contracted,  are  more 
often  cured  by  the  visit.  Nowhere  is 
the  air  in  the  slightest  degree  impure. 


So  free  is  the  cavofrom  reptiles  of  every 
kind,  that  St.  Patrick  might  be  supposd 
to  have  exerted  his  fiibled  annihilating 
power  in  its  favor.  Combustion  is  every 
where  perfect.  No  decomposition  ,  is 
met  with.  The  waters  of  tiie  springs 
and  rivers  of  the  cave  are  habitually 
fresh  and  pure.  The  temperature  is 
equable  at  all  seasons  at  69"  Fahren- 
heit. 
Thus,  no  one  need,  through  any  ap« 

Erehension,  deny  himself  the  novel  de- 
ght  of  a  ramble  along  the  220  avenues, 
under  the  47  domes,  by  the  8  cata- 
racts, the  28  pits,  and  the  "  thousand 
and  one"  marvellous  sceneli  and  objects 
of  this  magnificent  and  moat  matooless 
Cave. 


OHIO. 

Ohio  is  on^  of  the  largest  and  most  important  of  the  great  Western  States, 
and  the  third  in  the  Republic  in  population  and  wealth.  It  extends  over  an 
area  200  miles  in  length  and  196  miles  in  breadth.  On  its  northern  limits  are 
Michigan  and  Lake  Erie ;  Pennsylvania  and  Yir^nia  encompass  it  eastward.  The 
waters  of  the  Ohio  separate  it  from  Kentucky  on  the  south,  and  westward  is  the 
State  of  Indiana. 

The  central  portions  of  Ohio  are,  for  the  motst  part,  level  lands,  with  here  and 
there,  more  especially  towards  the  north,  tracts  of  marsh.  In  the  north-west 
there  is  an  extensive  stretch  of  very  fertile  country,  called  the  Black  Swamp ; 
much  of  which  is  yet  covered  with  forest.  Some  prairies  are  seen  in  these  middle 
and  northern  parts  of  the  State.  Huge  boulders  are  found  hereabouts,  as  upon 
all  the  plains  of  the  West,  but  where  they  came  from  or  how,  nobody  knows. 
North  of  the  middle  of  the  State  there  is  a  range  of  highhmds  which  apportion 
the  waters  for  the  Ohio  on  the  south  and  for  Lake  Erie  on  the  north,  the  former 
recipient  getting  the  lion^s  share.  A  second  ridge  interrupts  the  Ohio  slope  near 
the  middle  of  the  State,  and  thence,  all  the  rest  of  the  way  southward,  the 
country  is  broken  and  hilly,  terminating,  often,  upon  the  waters  of  the  Ohio,  in 
abrupt  and  lofty  banks. 

The  great  bituminous  coal  veins  of  Pennsylvania,  Virginia  and  Kentucky,  ex* 
tend  into  Ohio,  supplying  her  well  with  this  valuable  product.  •  Of  uron,  also,  she 
possesses  ample  stores. 


Hm  Ohio  Rivnr  forms  most  of  the 
eastern  and  all  of  the  southern  bound* 
ary  of  the  State,  and  is  the  recipient  of 
the  other  principal  streams  of  the  re- 
gion. See  index  for  description  of  the 
Ohio  in  previous  pages. 

The  Miukingnm  Rivur  is  formed 
of  the  Tuscarawas  and  the  Walhond- 


ing,  which  rise  in  the  upper  part  of  the 
State  and  meet  at  Coshocton.  From 
this  point  the  course  of  the  Mnskinghum 
is  nearly  south-east,  110  miles  to  the 
Ohio  at  Marietta.  Steamboats  reach 
Dresden,  96  miles  up. 

The  8ob»to  Bl-nt  receives  itf  main 
affluent  at  Oolombus,  and  flows  thence 


.'» 


828 


OHIO. 

BlTcn— B«Uw8yB— B«marksble  Sisenea. 


If 


nearly  south  to  the  Ohio  at  Portamouth. 
Its '  passage  is  about  200  miles,  through 
a  fertile  valley  region.  The  route  of 
the  Ohio  and  Erie  canal  is  near  the  Sci- 
oto, below,  for  a  distance  of  90  miles. 

The  BUami  River  flows  160  miles 
from  the  north-west  central  part  of  the 
State,  past  Troy,  Dayton  and  Hamilton, 
to  the  Ohio,  20  miles  below  Cincinnati. 
It  is  a  rapid  and  picturesque  stream, 
traversing  a  very  populous  and  produc- 
tive valley  tract.  Its  course  is  followed 
for  70  miles  by  the  Miami  canal. 

In  the  upper  part  of  Ohio  are  the 
Maumee,  the  Sandusky,  the  Huron,  the 
Cuyahoga,  and  other  smaller  rivers, 
which  find  their  way  to  Lake  Erie. 

Lake  Erie  forms  about  150  miles  of 
the  north  and  north-eastern  boundary 
of  Ohio. 

Though  there  are  many  scenes  of 
quiet  beauty  on  the  rivers  and  in  the 
valleys  of  Ohio,  yet  the  State  possesses 
no  landscape  of  any  considerable  fame ; 
no  celebrated  and  accepted  shrines  for 
Nature's  devotees  and  pilgrims.  There 
are,  however,  some  objects  of  curious 
antiquarian  interest — ^remarkable  earth- 
works, which  have  for  many  long  years 
attracted  attention  and  inquiry.  These 
mounds  are  scattered  all  over  the  coun- 
try. There  are  some  examples  existing 
at  Gircleville.  Another  very  remarkable 
one  is  found  at  Marietta ;  this  mound  is 
80  feet  high,  and  is  surrounded  by  an 
elliptical  waU  230  by  216  feet.  In  War- 
ren County  is  Fort  Ancient — which  has 
about  4  miles  of  embankment  from  18 
to  20  feet  high.  In  Ross  County  are 
Clark's  Works,  2,800  feet  long  and  1,800 
broad,  enclosing  some  smaller  works 
and  mounds. 

A  subterranean  Lake  is  supposed  to 
exist  at  Bryan,  in  Williams  County,  as 
water  when  bored  for  is  found  at  a  depth 
of  40  or  60  feet,  at  all  times  and  in  great 
abundance;  and  fish,  too,  sometimes 
coming  up  with  it. 

Ohio  owes  her  wonderful  prosperity — 
her  almost  marvellous  growth  in  the 
period  of  half  a  century,  from  a  wild 
iorest  tract  to  the  proud  rank  she  now 
holds  among  the  greatest  of  the  great 
American  States — ^mainly  to  the  rich 


capabilities  of  her  generous  soil  and  cli« 
mate.  Nearly  all  her  vast  territory  ia 
available  for  agricultural  uses.  In  the 
amount  of  her  products  of  wool  and 
of  Indian  com,  she  has  no  peer  in  all 
the  land — while  she  is  exceeded  by  only 
one  other  State  in  her  growth  of  wheat, 
barley,  cheese  and  live  stock ;  by  only 
two  States  in  the  value  of  her  orch- 
ards, oats,  potatoes,  buckwheat,  grasses, 
hay,  maple  sugar  and  butter.  Tobacco 
also  is  one  of  her  staples,  and  among 
other  articles  which  she  yields  abun- 
dantly, are  hops,  wine,  hemp,  silk,honey, 
beeswax,  molasses,  sweet  potatoes,  and 
a  ^reat  variety  of  fruits.  Her  vines, 
which  are  known  and  esteemed  every 
where,  have  yielded,  in  the  vicinity  of 
Cincinnati  alone,  half  a  million  of  gal' 
Ions  of  wine  in  a  year. 

In  the  forests  and  woodlands  are 
found  the  oak,  the  sugar  and  other  ma- 
ples, the  hickory,  the  sycamore,  poplar, 
ash  and  beech — the  pawpaw,  the  buck- 
eye (Ohio  is  called  the  Buckeye  State), 
the  dogwood,  and  many  other  trees. 

Railways.  If  Ohio  were  famous  for 
nothing  else,  her  railways  would  immor- 
talize her  name.  The  very  best  way  to 
catalogue  these  iron  roads  here  would 
be  to  say,  that  no  matter  between  what 
two  given  points  you  may  desire  to 
pass,  you  wiU  be  sure  to  find  a  locomo* 
tive  to  drag  you.  In  round  terms,  sev- 
eral thousand  miles  of  railway  are  in 
operation  in  this  State,  with  yet  many 
other  routes  in  progress.  Ohio,  and  her 
neighbors,  Indiana  and  Illinois,  form  the 
great  triumvirate  of  locomotive  States. 
Looking  upon  the  map,  no  one  would 
attempt  the  vain  labor  to  unravel  the 
intricate  web  which  the  restless  spider 
Travel  has  woven  all  over  this  region. 
*'  Ironing  done  here "  seems  to  be  the 
sign  of  the  land,  as  it  was  over  Punch's 
map  of  the  world,  during  the  railway 
mania  in  England.  Happily,  many  as 
are  the  roads,  they  are  not  too  many,, 
but  all  contribute  to  the  prosperity  and 
glory  of  the  country,  near  and  afar  ofif. 

Ohio,  in  the  number  and  population 
of  her  cities  and  towns,  exceeds  all  the 
States  of  the  West.  To  Cincinnati,  her 
chief  commercial  metropolis,  her  peers 


OU8  soil  and  oli- 
rast  territory  is 
1  uses.    In  the 
IS  of  wool  and 
no  peer  in  all 
Lceeded  by  only 
owth  of  wheat, 
stock ;  by  only 
B  of  her  orch- 
cwheat,  grasses, 
itter.    Tobacco 
les,  and  among 
le  yields  abun- 
3mp,  silk,honey, 
it  potatoes,  and 
Its.    Her  vines, 
esteemed  every 
the  vicinity  of 
million  of  gal- 
woodlands  are 
r  and  other  ma- 
camore,  poplar, 
rpaw,  the  buck- 
Buckeye  State), 
other  trees, 
were  famous  for 
s  would  immor- 
ery  best  way  to 
ids  here  would 
■  between  what 
may  desire  to 
find  a  locomo- 
und  terms,  sev- 
railway  are  in 
with  yet  many 
Ohio,  and  her 
linois,  form  the 
omotive  States, 
no  one  would 
to  unravel  the 
restless  spider 
er  this  region, 
ems  to  be  the 
a  over  Punch's 
ng  the  railway 
)pily,  many  as 
not  too  many,, 
prosperity  and 
ir  and  afar  off. 
md  population 
exceeds  all  the 
Cincinnati,  her 
>olis,  her  peers 


«M*^' 


rv?^-^jmm*^^ii?v:*tfifWiir>'*' 


Enured, accardmg  w  Act  ofCcmyress, in tkt  year  1349.  hy  W.WiUianw  in  the  Clerki  Office  oftht  Vistriu  Court  ofth. 


rki  ^Tr^u;^  of  t)i£  Distriet  Court  of  the  Eastern  Btstnlct  of  I'miuiyLvMua 


tV.  Witlicun.i- .u . 


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rano —    " 


ll/Miyltf  ^  f^,^  if,ai 


fias^^fitfi 


/.units 


PLAN  OF 

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VIOINITY. 


Scale  of  j^aMiLe. 


Unumi^according  to  Aa  of Conyrtjs .in^t year  1349  hy  W.WUUam^  in  the 


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ftUl 


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city  of  aaolaiwtl— BontM-HoMii  atci 


'rfH»ift!!lii....:i5i|:  r,;;ii;;;       liinini: 


f?"H  /-ii:: 


BtMmbMt  Landings  Oinoinnitl,  Ohio. 


have  coacedcd  the  roval  title  of  "  the 
Queen  City.**  New  Orleans  alone,  in  all 
tiie  vast  valley  of  the  Miariaaippi,  aur- 
paaaeait. 

■  Oiiidmiatl — ^From  Neva  York.  By 
Hodaon  River  or  the  Harlem  Railway 
to  Albany,  and  thence  by  the  Central 
Raihroad  to  Buffalo,  or  by  the  N.  Y.  and 
Erie  Rdlroad  to  Dunkirk  or  Buffalo, 
469  miles;  from  Dunkirk,  or  Buffalo, 
above  (N.  T.),  via  Erie  (Penn.)  by  the 
Cleveland  ana  Erie  Railroad,  uong  the 
shore  of  Lake  Erie  to  Cleveland  (Ohio), 
142  miles;  Cleveland  and  Columbua 
Railroad,  186  miles,  to  Columbus ;  Little 
Miami  Ridlroad,  120  miles,  to  Cincin- 
nati. Total  distance  from  New  York, 
866  miles. 

From  Philadelphia.  By  Pennsylva- 
nia Railroad,  866  miles,  to  Pittsburg, 
g?A.),  187  miles  to  Crestline,  60  miles  to 
olumbus,  120  miles  to  Cilicinnati. 
Total,  722  miles. 

From^a/<tmof0.  Baltimore  and  Ohio 
Railroad,  397  miles,  to  Wheeling  (Va.), 
Central  Ohio  via  Zanesville  to  Columbus, 
141  miles;  Little  Miami  Railroad,  120 
miles,  to  Cincinnati.    Total,  668. 

From  8t.  Jjmit.  Ohio  and  Mississippi 
Railway. 

From  Nei0  Orleans.  Mississippi  and 
Ohio  River  Steamers. 


Bottto.— The  Burnet  Houtt  (C«ile- 
man)  pleasantly  and  centrally  located  oa 
Third  and  Vine  streets,  $2  60  per  day ; 
the  Spencer  Mousey  near  the  Landing ; 
Broatueajf  ffoM,  near  the  River  and 
Landing;  Walnut  Street  Omee^WtiuvA 
and  Quano  streets,  $1 60  per  day;  Oeorge 
Selves*  Restaurant^  Third  street. 

"The  Queen  City  of  the  West,**  as 
CSnoinnati  is  called,  is  the  largest  cafd- 
tal  of  the  Mississippi  region,  and  with 
its  population  of  200,000,  It  is  the  fifth  in 
extent  and  importance  in  all  the  Union. 
Its  central  position  on  the  Ohio  River 
has  made  it  a  receiving  and  distributing 
depdt  for  all  the  wide  and  rich  country 
tributary  to  those  great  waters.  The 
city  is  delightfully  situated  in  a  vaUey 
of  three  miles  extent,  enclosed  by  a  weU 
defined  cordon  of  hills,  reaching,  by 
gentle  ascent,  an  elevation  above  the 
river  of  some  400  feet.  These  high 
points  command  imposing  views  of  the 
city  and  its  surroundings,  far  and  near. 

The  chief  portion  of  Cincinnati  lies 
upon  two  plateaus  or  terraces,  the  first 
60  feet  above  low-water  mark,  and  the 
second  108  feet.  The  upper  pUdn  slopes 

Sadually,  for  a  mile,  to  the  foot  of 
ount  Auburn — a  ranee  of  limestone 
hills,  charmingly  embellished  with  villas 
and  vineyalrds.    The  city  occupies  the 


WtTluunr  ,h 


880 


OHIO. 


;.^ 


:  '> 


city  of, Ciocinnati— Public  Edifices. 


river  shore  for  more  than  three  miles, 
and,  ineluding  the  suburban  Tillages, 
for  a  much  greater  distance.  The  cen- 
tral k^nd  commercial  quarter  is  well  and 
compactly  built  The  streets  are  mostly 
of  good  width,  well  paved  and  weU 
lighted  with  gas.  The  principal  thor- 
oughfares are  Broadway,  Main,  Pearl 
and  Fourth  streets.  Main  street,  the 
great  business  highway,  five  and  a.  half 
miles  long,  traverses  the  city  from  the 
Steamboat  landing — an  open  area  of  10 
acres,  with  1,000  feet  fronts  and  is  in- 
terse^tted  at  right  angles  by  14  leading 
streets,  named  First,  Second,  Third, 
Fourth,  and  so  on.^  Pearl  street,  paral- 
lel with  the  river,  is  the  great  jobbing 
mart.  Fourth  street  is  the  "Fifth  Ave- 
nue," of  the  Town,  a  long,  wide,  ele- 
gant and  fashionable  promenade  upon 
the  orowq  of  the  First  Terrace,  following 
the  course  of  the  river  and  overlooking 
its  waters  and  windings.  Fifth  street 
contains  the  markets,  and  displays  a 
scene  of  busy  life  through  an.  extent  of 
three  or  four  miles. 

Public  Bcildinqs.  The  dneinnati 
Obiervatmy  has  a  beautiful  utuation 
upon  Mount  Adams,  in  the  eastern  part 
of  the  city.  It  commands  an  extensive 
view  of  the  Ohio,  and  of  the  surround- 
ing country.  It  can  be  distinctly  seen 
by  the  trav  eller,  from  the  steamboat,  in 
passing  up  or  down  the  river.  It  oc- 
cupies four  acres  of  land,  the  gift  of 
Mr.  Nicholas  Longworth.  It  was  built 
by  the  voluntary  contributions  of  the 
citizens,  who  gave  $26  each,  towards 
the  erection  of  the  building  and  the 

£urcbase  of  appropriate  instruments, 
[uch,  however,  is  due  to  the  energy 
and  perseverance  of  Professor  Mitchel, 
to  whose  unr  -ji^sing  labors  they  are 
principally  uidebted  for  the  result.  The 
coruer-stoi ..  <  was  laid  on  the  9th  Novem- 
ber, 1848,  by  the  late  John  Quincy 
Adams,  who  Cu'iled  the  edifice  a  "  light- 
house of  the  skies.*'  The  telescope  is 
of  unsurpassed  finish,  accuracy,  and 

e^wer,  made  by  Mentz  k  Mahler,  of 
unich,  artists  of  the  highest  reputa- 
tion.   Its  cost  was  (10,000. 

The  Masonic  Hall  stands  on  the  north- 
east corner  of  Wahint  and  Third  streets ; 


it  was  erected  at  an  expense  of  $80,000. 
A  portiou  of  the  ground  floor  is  ocou> 
pied  by  the  !Fost  (Moe. 

The  Merchants'  Exchange,  or  Ginoin- 
nati  College,  a  beautiful  new  building, 
is  situated  in  Walnut  street,  between 
Fourth  and  Fifth  streets.  It  is  of  the 
Grecian  Doric  order,  three  stories  high, 
exclusive  of  an  attic,  and  140  feet  front, 
100  deep,  and  60  in  height.  The  Ex- 
change and  Reading-room  is  69  feet  by 
46,  and  one  of  the  finest  in  the  United 
States. 

The  Mercantile  Library  Association 
is  in  the  same  building  as  the  Exchange, 
and  on  the  same  floor ;  it  had,  in  1853, 
no  less  than  2,800  members,  and  13,000 
volumes,  besides  a  very  large  supply  of 
American  and  foreign  newspapers,  peri- 
odicals, &c. 

The  Odd  Fellows'  Hdl,  a  fine  building, 
is  on  the  north-west  corner  of  Walnut 
and  Third  streets.  The  public  hall  oc- 
cupies the  whole  of  the  second  story,  is 
62  feet  by  46,  and  is  not  inferior  to  any 
other  similar  room  in  the  country  ;  it  is 
well  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  used  for 
concerts,  lectures,  sc. 

The  Ohio  Medical  College  is  in  South 
Sixth  street,  between  Vine  and  Race ; 
it  contains  a  large  lecture-room,  library, 
&c.,  the  latter  having  several  thousand 
well-selected  standard  works,  purchased 
by  the  State.  The  cabinet  belonging 
to  the  anatomical  department  is  amply 
furnished. 

St.  Peter's  Cathedral  is,  perhaps,  the 
finest  building  of  its  kind  in  the  West ; 
it  w  situated  on  Plum  street,  corner  of 
Eighth,  and  is  devoted  to  the  services 
of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church.  The 
building  is  2  JO  feet  long  by  80  broad, 
and  60  feet  high.  The  roof  is  princi- 
pally supported  upon  18  fi*ee6toae  pillars, 
fornted  of  a  fluted  shaft,  with  Corinthian 
tops,  three  and  a  half  feet  in  diameter, 
and  85  feet  in  height.  The  ceiling  is  of 
stucco-work,  of  a  rich  and  expensive 
character.  The  roof  is  compo»ed  of 
iron  plates,  whose  seams  are  coated  with 
a  composition  of  coal,  tar,  and  sand, 
which  renders  it  impervious  to  rain. 
The  building  cost  $90,000,  and  the 
ground  $24,000.    At  the  west  end  of 


OHIO. 


HBl 


Clnotnoatl— ThflfttNft— 8nBp«iuitOB  Bildg*. 


the  charoh  ia  an  altar  of  the  purest 
Carrara  marble,  made  by  XShiappri,  of 
Genoa;  it  ia  embellished  with  a  centre- 
piece, encircled  with  rays,  aronnd  which 
wreaths  and  flowers  are  beautifully 
carved.  An  immense  organ  occupies 
its  opposite  end,  having  2,700  pipes  and 
44  stops.  One  of  the  pipes  is  38  feet 
long,  and  weighs  400  pounds.  The 
cost  was  $5,600.  Several  paintings  oc- 
cupy  the  walls,  among  which  is  a  Si. 
Peter,  by  Murillo,  presented  to  Bishop 
Fenwick  by  Cardinal  Fesoh,  uncle  to 
Ntmoleon. 

The  Episcopal  Church,  comer  of  Sev- 
enth and  Plum  sfireets,  and  the  first 
Presbyterian,  corner  of  Main  and 
Fourth,  are  notable  edifices.  Besides 
these,  there  are,  all  told,  more  than  100 
churches  of  every  shade  of  &ith  and 
doctrine  in  Cincinnati. 

The  City  Eall  is  in  Plum  street,  be- 
tween Eighth  and  Ninth.  It  is  a  com- 
etratively  new  structure.  In  the 
elodeon.  Fourth  and  Walnut  streets, 
there  is  a  fine  public  hall  100  by  60 
feet. 

ThaatiM.  The  National,  Sycamore 
between  Third  and  Fourth  street?,  is 
-the  oldest  establishment  in  the  city. 
Wood's  Theatre,  corner  of  Vine  and 
Sixth  streets,  is  a  new  and  fashionable 
place  of  resort ;  where  the  "  legitimate 
drama"  is  done.  There  is  also  a  Mu- 
seum called  the  "  Western." 

The  Cincinuaii  College,  the  Wood- 
ward College,  and  the  St.  Xavier  (Cath- 
olic), three  Medical  Schools,  a  College 
of  Dental  Surgery,  and  the  Lane  (Theo- 
logical) Seminary,  a  Baptist,  and  an  Old 
School  Presbyterian  Seminary,  are  the 
chief  educational  establishments  of  the 
city,  excepting  an  abundant  supply  of 
excellent  private  and  public  academies 
and  schools. 

The  Mechanics*  Institute,  Vine  and 
Sixth  streets,  makes  annual  exhibitions 
of  industrial  art. 

The  chief  Benevolent  Institutions  are 
the  Lunatic  Asylum,  the  Commercial 
Hospital,  four  Orphan  Asylums,  the 
Widows'  Home,  Asylum  for  Indigent 
Females,  the  House  of  Refuge,  and  the 
Hotel  for  InvaUds. 


The  SnspemlCMkBvldg*  is  a  magni- 
ficent structure,  now  in  process  of  erec- 
tion across  the  Ohio  River.  A  corrMh 
pendent  of  the  New  York  Evening  Post, 
writing  of  this  great  work  (De?embOT 
1th,  1866),  says— 

*'The  Ohio  River  is  reaUy  to  be 
bridged  at  Cincinnati;  not  as  it  was 
last  winter,  by  ice,  and  in  defiance  of 
the  constitution  of  the  United  States— 
but  by  a  splendid  structure,  that  will 
stand  against  all  weathers  and  freshets. 

"  John  A.  Roebling,  Esq.,  architect  of 
the  Niagara  Suspension  Bridge,  is  .at 
work,  "hammer  and  tongs,"  building 
the  towers  of  a  structure  on  the  same 
general  plan,  though  not  adapted  for 
the  passage  of  a  railroad,  as  it  might  be 
with  greater  cost.  This  project  has 
been  long  talked  of,  and  the  charter,  I 
believe,  was  granted  some  years  ago  iij 
the  legislatures  of  Kentucky  and  Ohio. 
It  was  not  till  a  quite  recent  date  that 
subscriptions  of  stock  could  be  secured 
to  make  a  beginning.  Some  enterpris- 
ing men  have  procured  $360,000,  and 
w^  probably  issue  bonds  for  as  much 
more,  which  will  complete  the  bridge. 
The  progress  of  the  woric  is  very  inter- 
esting. The  towers,  the  foundations  of 
which  are  laid  86  by  62  feet  at 
the  base,  will  be  280  feet  high,  and 
1006  feet  apart.  The  cables  will  be 
anchored  800  fe^t  back  on  each  side  of 
the  river,  pass  ever  the  tops  of  the 
towers,  and  thus  be  made  to  sustain 
the  weight  of  the  bridge.  The  entire 
span  wiU  therefore  be  1606  feet — a  little 
short  of  one  third  of  a  mile.  The  ele- 
vation of  the  floor  at  the  middle,  above 
low-water  mark,  will  be  122  feet.  The 
great  flood  of  1882 — ^the  highest  on 
record — rose  62  feet  above  low  water; 
and,  making  allowance  even  for  this, 
there  will  remain  60  feet,  which  is  con- 
siderably more  than  will  be  required  for 
the  highest  steamboat  pipes  on  tibe 
river.  It  will  be  a  novel  spectacle  to 
look  down  on  those  splentUd  floating 
palaced  passing  under  the  magnificent 
span. 

"The  highest  grade  of  ascent  at 
either  end  will  be  7  feet  in  100,  and  the 
strength  of  the  bridge  will  be  equal  to 


■'.V' 


882 


OHIO. 


Clndnnsti  and  Vioinity— North  Bend— Cleveland. 


I  ' 


erery  thing  but  a  rulroad  train.  The 
foundations  were  begun  on  the  Ist  of 
September,  and  the  structure  will  be 
completed  in  three  years  from  that 
time." 

The  Reridence  of  Mr.  ZiOngworth, 
at  the  foot  of  Mount  Adams,  north-east 
end  of  the  city,  is  a  charming  seat, 
with  its  vineyards,  gardens,  ond  con- 
servatories, and  its  art-treasures.  Mr. 
Longworth^s  name  is  familiar  abroad, 
in  connection  with  the  culture  of  the 
grape,  for  which  Cincinnati  is  so  dis- 
tinguished; for  everybody  knows  and 
esteems  the  "sparkling  Catawba**  of 
this  neighborhood. 

In  early  times  (that  is,  15  yean  ago) 
Dear  Creek,  a  green-margined,  pebbly 
stream,  wound  gayly  along  the  base  of 
Mount  Adams;  now  it  is  an  under- 
ground selrer,  carrying  off  the  blood 
and  ofial  of  the  extensive  i>ork-killing 
and  packing  establishments,  for  which 
Cincinnati  is  so  greatly  renowned. 

Yioinage, — ^For  Covington  and  New- 
port^ cities  of  KentucI^  across  the 
Ohio,  from  Cincinnati,  see  chapter  on 
Kentucky ;  also,  for  the  Latonian 
Springs,  near  by. 

A  short  distance  from  the  city,  in  its 
north  part,  are  two  beautiful  villages — 
Mt'  Auburn  and  WcUnut  Hill — occu- 
pied chiefly  as  country  seats,  by  persons 
whose  business  is  in  the  city.  The  lat- 
ter place  is  the  seat  of  Lane  Seminary. 

Spring  Grove  Cemetery  is  situated  in 
the  valley  of  Mill  Greek,  about  four 
miles  north-west  of  the  city.  It  has  a 
beautiful  location,  and  contains  about 
168  acres.  The  road  thence  is  a  famous 
equestrian  route. 

North  Bend,  the  Home  and  Tomb 
of  Oeneral  Haxzison,  is  16  miles  be- 
low the  city,  in  full  view  from  the  river. 
The  venerable  homestead  of  the  re- 
gretted chieftain  and  President  (now 
occupied  by  his  son-in-law.  Col.  Wm. 
H.  Taylor),  is  a  plain  wooden  structure, 
some  portions  of  weather-boarded  logs, 
all  agreeably  embowered  in  shading 
trees.  It  lies  some  250  yards  back  of 
the  river.  The  grave  of  the  departed 
hero  is  upon  a  knoll,  some  200  yards 
both  from  the  water   and   from  the 


house,  its  position  marked  by  a  single 
white  shaft.  In  the  rear,  upon  the  hill* 
top,  there  is  a  romantic  little  lake. 

Running  along  the  base  of  the  hills, 
on  the  west  of  the  town,  is  Mill  Creek, 
three  or  four  miles  up  which  is  the  Mill 
Creek  House,  a  famous  resort  of  jolly 
excursionists,  bent  upon  "having  a 
time.'* 

"Over  the  Rhine."— The  Miami 
Canal  divides  Cincinnati  north  and 
south,  the  upper  portion  being  known 
to  the  initiated  as  "  Over  the  Rhine.** 
It  is  the  German  quarter,  and  has  a 
German  theatre,  with  lager-bier,  pipes 
and  tobacco,  Schiller  and  Goethe,  daily, 
but  Sundays  especially. 

2%«  Race  Course  lies  two  miles  below 
Covington,  across  the  Ohio. 

The  Buckeye  House,  opposite  the  Race 
Course,  on  the  upper  side  of  the  river, 
is  four  miles  below  the  city.  This  pop- 
ular excursion  terminus  is  kept  by  "  Old 
Joe  Harrison,"  so  called,  a  rosy,  hazy, 
Indian  summery  Boniface.  His  guests 
come  to  him  on  fast  horses,  and  tarry 
long  beneath  his  ancient  and  hospitable 
roo£  This  neighborhood  is  a  fine  pi- 
geon or  trap-shooting  ground.  In  the 
shallows  and  surfy  ripples  of  the  Ohio 
hereabouts,  salmon  are  taken  with  rod 
and  line  heavily  leaded. 

Cleveland.— From  New  York,  by 
the  New  York  and  Erie  Railway,  to 
Dunkirk,  oif  Lake  Erie,  459  miles.  The 
lake  steamers,  or  the  Lake  Shore  route 
R.  R.  (via  Erie,  Pa.),  142  miles.  Total, 
New  York  to  Cleveland,  596  miles.  Or, 
from  New  York,  by  Hudson  River  and 
Central  roads  to  Albany  and  Buffalo, 
thence  as  above,  627  miles. 

From  Philadelphia,  Penn.  R.  R.',  855 
miles  to  Pittsburg,  etc.  From  Balti- 
more, via  Harrisburg,  thence  to  Pitts- 
burg, Pa.,  or  by  the  Baltimore  and 
Ohio  route  to  Wheeling,  etc. 

From  Cincinnati,  see  Cincinnati  from 
Cleveland ;  from  Chicago,  see  Chicago, 
from  Cleveland. 

Hotda^-The  Weddell  House,  Bank 
and  Superior  streets,  $2  per  day ;  the 
Angier  House,  Bank  and  St.  Clair 
streets,  $2  per  day. 

Cleveland,  after    •  i-ioinnati,  is  the 


)    * 


OHIO. 

City  of  Colambiu. 


833 


miles  below 


^l_wf^^^H 


■.       ^NVN<  ■SM   "-^ 


Cleveland,  and  part  of  Ohio  City. 


chief  city  of  Ohio,  with  a  population 
(the  suburb  of  Ohio  city  included)  of 
over  41,000,  in  1853 — a  number  greatly 
increased  since  that  period.  Though 
not  very  attractive,  as  seen  firom  the 
waters  of  Lake  Erie,  on  the  lower  shore 
of  which  it  is  built,  the  topography  here 
is  yet  very  admirable  and  pleasing,  as 
the  visitor  will  confess  when  he  passes 
from  the  Lower  to  the  elevated  terrace 
of  the  Upper  Town,  and  looks  abroad 
over  the  city  and  the  waters  of  the 
boundless  lake. 

The  streets  are  wide,  regular,  well 
paved,  and  most  agreeably  shaded. 
Main  street,  the  great  business  depot, 
is  120  feet  broad,  long,  and  compactly 
built.  Near  the  centre  of  the  town 
there  is  a  public  square,  occupying  ten 
acres. 

The  Court  Souse^  the  Exchange^  the 
Medical  Collegt,  the  Soteh^  and  some 
of  the  Oh,urehe$,  are  noteworthy  struc- 
tures here.  The  Wettem  JUurvt  Medi- 
cal College  has  betwe6n  200  and  800 
students.  The  Homoeopathic  Medical 
School  was  founded  in  1850,  and  the 
Engineers'  and  Mechanics'  College  in 
1864.  The  Ouyahoga  Works,  for  the 
manufacture  of  locomotives,  are'  very 
extensive. 


Across  the  Ouyahoga  Kver,  which 
comes  into  Lake  Erie  at  Cleveland, 
is  the  suburban  quarter  called  OUp 
City. 

Oolnmboi,  the  capital  of  Ohio.  To 
reach  Golumbu3  from  New  York,  Phila* 
delphia,  and  intermediate  places,  tee 
CiiMinnati  for  route  thence  to  that 
city,'  as  far  as  Columbus.  From  Cleve* 
land  (Lake  Erie),  south-west,  186  miles, 
by  the  Cleveland,  Columbus,  and  Cin- 
cinnati road ;  from  Cincinnati,  by  the 
same  route,  north-east,  120 miles;  from 
Wheeling,  Va.,  terminus  of  Bdtimore 
and  Ohio  road,  141  miles  west,  by  the 
Ohio  Central;  from  Pittsburg,  on  the 
Pennnylvania  road,  by  the  Steubenville 
and  Indiana  route,  via  Steubenville  and 
Zanesville,  Ohio. 

Hotels   m   Columbus.     The   Veil 
ffoute,  $2  per  day. 

Columbus  is  near  the  centre  of  the 
State,  upon  the  bank9  of  the  Sciota 
River,  90  miles  from  its  debouchure  on 
the  Ohio.  It  was  founded  in  the  wilder- 
nese  in  1812,  and  in  1863  had  a  popula- 
tion of  some  26,000.  It  is  the  centre 
of  a  rich  country,  which  is  daily  adAne 
to  its  extent  and  opulence.  Some  of 
the  principal  streets  are  100  and  120 
feet    in  width,    and   elegantly   built. 


8S4 


OBIO^ 


Dayton— ZuifltTille—€hIUIootlM-<-Bpriagfleld—StenbeiiTlU«. 


Many  of  the  pablio  edifices  are  of  very 
striung  character.  The  Capitol,  which 
is  constructed  of  a  marble-like  lime- 
stone, has  a  facade  of  more  than  800 
feet,  and  an  elevation,  to  the  top  of  the 
rotonda,  of  167  feet.  ,  Then  there  are, 
bendes,  the  Ohio  Lunatic  Asylum,  the 
hutittttion  for  the  Blind,  the  Asylum 
for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  and  the  State 
Penitentiary,  all  fine  buildings.  The 
Starling  Medical  College,  endowed  by 
the  late  Lyne  Starling,  was  established 
here  some  few  years  ago.  It  occupies 
a  Gothic  e<MDe  of  brick,  capped  with  a 
whitish  limestone. 

At  JEoMtwood,  dos^  by,  the  traveller 
may  see  the  gardens  of  the  Columbus 
Horticultural  Society,  and  the  grounds 
of  the  Franklin  County  Agricultural 
Society. 

Daytoi^  is  at  the  meeting  of  various 
rdlway  lines ;  from  Cincinnati,  60  miles, 
by  the  Hamilton,  Cincinnati,  and  Day- 
ton road ;  from  Xenia,  16  miles  ;  from 
Columbus,  66  miles;  from  ZanesviUe, 
114  miles,  and  from  Wheeling  (Va.), 
196  miles,  on  the  direct  route  from  Bal- 
timore to  St.  Louis.  By  the  same 
route  (firom  the  West),  108  miles  from 
Indianapolis,  181  from  Terre  Haute, 
•Hd  S68  from  St.  Louis. 

The  Mad  River  enters  the  Great 
Miami  at  Dayton,  and  it  is  also  upon 
the  libe  of  the  Miami  Canal.  This  is 
one  of  the  most  populous  and  enterpris- 
ing cities  in  Ohio.  The  situation  is 
pleasant,  and  the  streets,  which  are  of 
remarkable  width,  are  built  with  more 
than  wonted  elegance  and  richness. 
Many  of  the  public  edifices  and  private 
mansions  are  constructed  of  excellent 
limestone  and  marble,  which  abounds 
in  the  vicinage.  In  1868,  the  population 
of  Dayton  amounted  to  neady  17,000. 

SCuBMviUe  is  upon  the  t  >ute  from 
Baltimore  to  Columbus,  Cincinnati,  In- 
dianapolis, and  St.  Louis  {see  those 
cities  for  routes  thither) ;  from  Wheel- 
ing, Va.,  82  miles  by  Central  Ohio  line ; 
f^oip  Columbus,  by  same  road,  69  miles ; 
from  Cincinnati  (Cincinnati,  Wilming- 
ton, and  ZanesviUe  road),  167  miles. 

The  position  of  ZanesviUe  upon  the 
Muskinghum  River,  and  in  the  midst  of 


a  rich  and  populous  valley  region,  prom> 
ises  an  indefinite  .(continuation  of  its 
past  success,  which  has  been  upon  the 
scale  common  to  the  cities  of  the  West. 
Settlements  were  first  made  here  in 
1799,  and  here  was  the  seat  of  the  State 
Government  during  the  two  years  im- 
mediately preceding  the  selection  of 
Columbus  as  the  capital  in  1812. 

OhiUioothe  is  on  the  Sciota  Riyer 
and  the  Ohio  and  Erie  Canal,  46  miles 
below  Columbus,  and  the  eame  distance 
from  the  Ohio  at  Portsmouth.  It  is 
upon  the  Cincinnati  and  Marietta  Rail- 
way, extending  from  Parkersburg,  on 
the  Ohio,  a  terminus  of  the  Baltimore 
and  Ohio  road,  to  Cincinnati.  From 
Cincinnati,  96  miles. 

The  fine  hill-slopes  which  enclose  the 
valley  site  of  Chillicothe  contribute 
greatly  to  the  unusually  attractive  as- 
pect of  the  landscape  here.  To  describe 
the  topography  of  this  pleasant  city 
would  be  but  to  repeat  what  we  have 
already  said  of  many  other  places  on 
the  fruitful  plains  of  Ohio  and  the  neigh- 
boring States — ^to  talk  only  of  spacious 
and  regular  streets,  substantial  and  ele- 
gant buildings,  all  telling  eloquent  tales 
of  prosperity  and  progress. 

This  city  was  founded  in  1796,  and 
was  the  capital  of  the  State  between  the 
years  1800  and  1810. 

Springfield  is  in  the  midst  of  rul- 
ways,  84  miles  above  Cincinnati,  on  the 
direct  route  thence  from  Sandusky  City 
on  Lake  Erie,  and  129  miles  below  San- 
dusky ;  from  Columbus,  46  miles. 

The  Mad  River  and  the  Lagonda 
Creek  meet  at  Springfield.  These  rap- 
id waters  afford  abundance  of  fine 
mill-sites,  which  are  all  well  employed 
by  the  manufactories  of  the  town.  This 
cit>  is  regarded  as  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  in  the  State,  both  in  its  posi- 
Uon  rnd  in  its  construction.  It  is  inter- 
esting as  the  birth-place  of  the  famous 
Indian  warrior  Tecumseh. 

SteubanTilla  is  upon  the  Ohio  River, 
on  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  State, 
and  on  the  great  railway  route  from 
Philadelphia,  via  Pittsburg,  and  from 
Baltimore,  via  Wheeling,  va.,  to  Cin- 
cinnati, and  all  points  in  the  West. 


INDIANA. 


886 


Sandnsky  ud  Toledo— Ohlo-^tate  t/t  Indiftas. 


The  history  of  SteubenTille  dates  from 
1*798.  Railroad  communication  with 
the  great  world  has  of  late  years  given 
to  it,  no  less  than  to  its  neighbors,  a 
new  and  strong  impetus  forward.  The 
position  of  the  town  is  upon  high  ter- 
race land,  overlooking  a  smiling  and 
happy  country  in  all  directions. 

Sanduiky  Oity  is  upon  Lake  Erie, 
on  the  line  of  the  Lake  Shore  Railways, 
from  Dunkirk  and  Buffalo  (N.  T.)  to 
Toledo,  Chicago,  Cincinnati,  etc.  From 
Cleveland,  61  miles ;  from  Toledo,  62 
miles ;  from  Cincinnati,  213  miles ; 
from  Dunkirk  (N.  T.  and  Erie  road),  208 
miles ;  from  New  York,  662  miles. 

The  first  church  in  Sandusky  was 
built  as  late  as  1830,  and  now  the  oity 
is  one  of  the  most  populous  and  opulent 
in  the  State.  Its  eligible  position  on 
the  busy  waters  of  Lake  Erie  and  its 
beautifid  harbor  ensure  it  continued 
growth  and  prosperity. 

PortMnottth  is  upon  the  Ohio,  in  the 


south-east  part  of  the  State.  A  railway 
extends  northward  to  the  line  of  the 
road  from  Cincinnati  to  Marietta  and 
WheeUng  (Ya.)  <S«e  ChUlicothe.  The 
river  steamers  from  all  points  oatt 
here. 

Toledo  is  upon  the  Maumee  River, 
four  miles  from  its  entrance  into  Lake 
Michigan,  and  upon  the  great  railway 
route  from  the  eastern  States  west- 
ward. It  is  52  miles  west  of  Sandusky, 
City,  113  miles  west  of  Cleveland;  265 
miles  from  Dunkirk  (Erie  road);  714 
miles  from  New  York,  and  248  miles 
east  of  Chicago,  by  the  Michigan  South- 
em  route. 

Toledo  is  the  terminus  of  the  Wabash 
and  Erie  Canal,  the  largest  in  the  United 
States.  Its  history  as  a  city  dates  only 
from  1886,  but  it  is  already  one  of  the^ 
chief  commercial  stations  of  the  com- 
merce  of  the  Great  Lakes. 

The  American  Hotel,    Summit  uad 
Elm  streets,  is  an  excellent  house  here. 


INDIANA. 

Indiana  extends  about  276  miles  from  North  to  South,  and  136  from  East  to 
West ;  on  the  North  is  the  Lake  and  State  of  Michigan ;  on  the  East,  Ohio ;  on 
the  South,  Kentucky  (across  the  Ohio  River) ;  and  on  the  West,  Illinois  (across 
the  Wbbash). 

Topo^^raphically,  this  State  bears  a  great  resemblance  to  its  neighbor,  Ohio. 
In  the  South,  bordering  on  the  Ohio,  is  the  same  hilly  surface ;  and  above,  the 
same,  undulating  or  level  land,  of  a  more  marked  prairie  character  sometimes, 
and  perhaps  more  of  barrens  and  marshes  northward.  In  this  direction  a  great 
pine  tract  abuts  on  Lake  Michigan  in  sand-hills  of  200  feet  elevation.  The  river 
lands  are  almost  always  rioh  and  fertile. 

As  in  surface,  so  in  soil  and  climate,  Indiana  is  very  like  Ohio.  In  the  pro* 
duction  of  Indian  corn,  she  is  the  fourth  State  in  the  Union,  Ohio  being  the  first. 
The  other  products  are  much  the  same  as  those  we  have  credited  to  her  great 
sister  State.    (See  Ohio.) 

Coal,  iron,  copper,  marble,  freestone,  lime  and  gypsum  are  found  here. 


The  Ohio  forms  the  entire  southern 
boundary  of  Indiana,  and  receives  the 
waters  of  nearly  all  the  other  rivers  of 
the  Statd. 

The  Wabash,  after  the  Ohio,  the 
largest  river  of  the  region,  flows  600 
miles,  crossing  the  State  and  separating 


it  in  the  lower  half,  firom  Illinois.  It  it 
the  largest  tributary — ^from  the  north— 
of  the  Oliio,  which  it  enters  140  mUes 
from  tke  Mississippi.  In  its  passage,  it 
passes  Huntington,  Lafayette,  Attica, 
Terre  Haute,  Covington  and  other 
towns.    It  is  navigable  at  high  water 


LJi  - 


INDIANA. 

Blven— CkTes— S«il«*7a— Olty  of  IndUiutpoIla. 


for  nearly  400  milea.  The  Wabash  and 
Erie  Canal  follows  its  course  from  Hunt- 
ington to  Terre  Haute,  180  miles. 

The  White  lUver,  the  principal  trib- 
utary of  the  Wabash,  is  formed  by  the 
two  branches  called  the  East  and  West 
Fork,  which  unite  near  Petersburg.  It 
enters  the  Wabash  after  a  course  of 
some  40  miles — ^nearly  opposite  Mount 
Carmel,  Illinois.  Upon  the  West  Fork, 
the  longest  branch  of  the  White  River 
flows  south-west  nearly  800  miles 
through  the  centre  of  the  ^ate,  pass- 
ing, among  other  places,  Muncie,  An- 
derson, Indianapolis,  Martinsville  and 
Bloomfield.  On  the  East  Fork  are 
New  Castle,  Shelby ville,  Columbus  and 
Rockford.  This  Fork  is  200  miles  in 
length.  It  is  sometimes  called  Blue 
River,  until  it  reaches  Sugar  Creek  near 
Edinburg! 

The  MawmiBft,  which  is  formed  in  In- 
diana  by  the  St.  Joseph's  and  the  St. 
Mary's  rivers,  passes  into  Ohio,  where 
we  have  already  met  it. 

Besides  these  rivers,  there  are  many 
other  lesser  waters.  Lake  Michigan 
washes  the  northern  border  of  the  State 
for  40  miles.  In  this  region  there  are 
also  a  number  of  other  small  lakes  and 
ponds. 

The  most  interesting  natural  curiosi- 
ties here,  (the  peculiar  landscape  fSea- 
tures  of  the  region,  in  prairie  reaches 
and  richly  wooded  r?ver  banks  except- 
ed,) are  the  numerous  and  remarkable 
.caves. 

The  Wymndotts  Oave  in  Crawford 
County,  11  miles  from  Corydon,  is  a 
wonderful  place,  thought  by  many  to 
equal  in  its  marvels  the  famous  Mam- 
moth Cave  of  Kentucky.  It  has  been 
explored  for  a  number  of  miles,  and  has 
been  found  rich  in  magnificent  cham- 
bers and  galleries,  in  stalactites  and 
other  calcareous  concretions. 

BpBom  Salts  0*v«  is  another  no- 
table place.  It  is  on  the  side  of  a  hill, 
400  feet  in  height.  Among  its  won- 
ders, is  a  white  column  30  feet  high  and 
16  feet  in  diameter.  It  is  regularly  and 
beautifully  fluted,  and  is  surrounded  by 
other  formations  of  the  same  character. 
Epsom  salt    nitre,  gypsum  and  allumi- 


nous  earth  are  found  in  the  soil  of  the 
floor  here.  Anotl^er  curious  object  is 
the  picture  of  an  Indian  rudely  painted 
on  the  rock. 

Anctont  Mounds  and  earth-works 
are  scattered  over  this  State,  as  through 
Ohio. 

Railways. — ^In  our  peep  at  Ohio,  we 
have  alluded  to  the  wonderful  reticula- 
tion of  nulway  tracks,  which  so  marks 
this  State  and  its  neighbors  both  East 
and  West.  These  iron  roads  link  all 
parts  of  Indiana  to  each  other,  and 
unite  it  thoroughly  with  all  the  Union 
from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Mississippi. 
The  railways  here,  as  in  Ohio,  on  the 
one  side,  and  Illinois  on  the  other,  are 
liniu  of  the  great  highways  across  the 
Republic  westward.  Haifa  dozen  trains 
often  start  together  from  the  same 
depot  in  Indianapolis,  the  Capital,  radi- 
ating to  all  points  of  the  compass. 

Indiana  has  at  present  but  few  large 
cities,  the  most  populous  not  number- 
ing, perhaps,  more  than  20,000. 

Indianapolis,  the  capital  of  Indiana, 
is  in  the  centre  of  the  State,  and  is  the 
radiating  point  of  railways  in  every 
direction.  To  reach  the  city  direct 
from  New  York,  see  route  thence  to 
Cleveland  on  Lake  Erie;  from  Cleve- 
land, take  the  Cincinnati  and  Columbus 
road  to  CresUine,  and  the  Bellefontaine 
and  Indiana  route  thence  to  Indianapo- 
lis. Distance  from  Cleveland,  281 
miles;  from  New  York,  840  c  iles. 

From  Philadelphia,  see  route  thence 
to  Cincinnati  as  far  as  Columbus,  Ohio— 
from  Columbus,  proceed  by  the  Colum- 
bus and  Xenia,  the  Dayton  and  Ws^t- 
ern  and  the  Central  Indiana  roads. 

From  Bcdtimore,  by  the  Baltimore 
and  Ohio  Railway  to  Wheeling,  the 
Ohio  Central  to  Columbus,  and  thence 
as  in  preceding  route  from  Philadelphia. 

From  Cincinnati,  by  the  Cincinnati 
and  Indianapolis  Railway,  direct. 

From  Louisville,  Ky.,  by  the  Jeffer- 
sonville  road,  108  miles. 

From  St.  Louie,  by  the  Ohio  aud  Mis- 
sissippi and  the  Jeffersoaville  roads. 

Indianapolis  may  be  readily  reached, 
also,  by  railway  from  Chicago,  and 
nearly  every  other  city  of  the  West. 


INDIANA. 


991 


IndtanapoUa— New  Albany— Madison. 


The  State  House,  Indianapolis. 


Hotels  in  Indianapolis. — ^The  Bates 
House,  $2.00  per  day;  the  American, 
(opposite  the  Depot,)  $1.60  per  day. 

The  locale  of  Indianapolis  was  se- 
lected for  the  State  Capital  in  1820,  at 
which  time  the  whole  region  was  a 
dense  forest.  Five  years  later,  the 
public  offices  were  removed  hither  from 
Gorydon,  and  now,  broad  and  beautiful 
and  populous  streets,  lined  with  costly 
and  elegant  edifices  and  dwellings,  are 
every  year  spreading  farther  and  farther 
over  the  great  plain. 

The  Raibmy  Station  here  is  an  edi- 
fice of  magnificent  proportions,  with  a 
frontage  of  360  feet,  and  trains  are  mo- 
mently leaving  it  for  every  point  of  the 
compass.  Some  of  the  very  many 
Churches  are  imposing  structures.  The 
State  House  is  a  fiine  building,  180  feet 
IB  length,  ornamented  on  each  side 
with  ..  grand  Doric  portico,  and  sur- 
rounded by  a  noble  dome.  The  Court 
House,  the  Masonic  Hall  and  t&e  Bates 
Hotel  will  attract  the  particular  notice  of 
the  viator  here. 

Indianapolis  is  the  seat  of  the  Indi- 
ana Medical  College,  founded  in  1849; 
here,  too,  is  the  State  Lunatic  Asylum. 

New  Albany,  one  of  the  chief  cities 

of  the  State,  is  upon  the  Ohio  River, 

three  miles  below  Louisville,  and  two 

miles  below  the  Falls.    From  CHncin- 

15 


nati,  186  miles.  See  Cincinnati  and 
Louisville  for  routes  to  those  points. 
The  NtoW  Albany  and  Salem  Rulway 
comes  to  Albany,  288  miles  from  Michi- 
gan City,  on  Lake  Michigan,  where  it 
connects  with  the  routes  to  Chicago 
and  the  north-west,  and  with  the  Michi- 
gan Railways  for  Detroit,  Niagara,  and 
the  Canadas,  and  with  the  lake-shore 
lines  to  New  York  via  Dunkirk  and 
Buffalo.  The  Jeffersonville  Railway 
from  Indianapolis,  the  capital,  108  miles 
above,  terminates  at  Jeffersonville,  just 
above  New  Albany,  and  opposite  Louis- 
ville. The  lines  intersect  and  commu- 
nicate with  others,  for  all  the  towns  of 
the  We^iem  States.  Steamboats  arHve 
and  depart  continually  for  all  landings 
on  the  Ohio  and  the  Mississippi  Rivers 
and  their  tributaries.  New  Albany  is 
one  of  the  two  largest  commercial  de- 
pots of  Indiana.  In  1864  its  population 
numbered  some  14,000,  and  it  has  since 
very  greatly  increased.  The  aspect  of 
this  city  is  very  like  that  of  most  towns 
on  the  level  prairie  lands  of  the  West, 
broad,  regular, well-built,  and  agreeably- 
shaded  streets,  with  a  general  air  of 
life  and  prosperity. 

BCadison  (population  12,000  in  1868), 
is  upon  the  Ohio,  90  miles  below  Cincin- 
nati ;  40  miles  above  Louisville ;  and 
86   miles  south-east    of  IndiaoApoIis. 


888 


INDIANA. 


Fort  WmjM  «nd  Tern  Haute— 8Ut«  of  lUlnois. 


See  Cincinnati  and  LouisTille  for  routes 
thither.  From  Cincinnati  take  the 
steamers  on  the  Ohio  River,  or  the  Mia- 
tiaApjA  and  Ohio  route  for  St.  Louis  to 
Vernon,  and  the  Jeffersonville  road 
from  Indianapolis. 

Madison  is  in  a  pleamnt  TaUey,  of 
three  miles'  extent,  shut  i^  on  the  north 
by  bold  hills,  400  feet  in  height.  It 
was  first  settled  in  1808. 

Fort  WmynBt  in  the  north-east  part 
of  the  State,  is  a  great  railway  centre, 
on  the  grand  route  from  New  York  via 
Clereland  and  Toledo  on  Lake  Erie,  and 
irom  Oausda  via  Detroit,  to  Springfield 
(Illinois),  and  St.  Loids.  It  is  the  west- 
ern terminus  of  the  Ohio  and  Indiana 
Road,  which  connects  at  Crestline  with 
the  Ohio  and  Pennsylvania,  for  Phila- 
delphia. The  St.  Joseph's  and  St. 
Mary's  Rivers  form  the  Maumee  at  this 
point,  and  the  Wabas^  and  Erie  Canal 
comes  in  122  miles  from  La  Fayette, 
and  ljl2  miles  from  Indianapolis.  Fort 
Wayne  was  the  ancient  site  of  the 
Twight-wee  village  of  the  Miami  In- 
dians. The  fort  which  giv^s  name  to 
the  town,  was  erected  here  in  1*794,  by 
the  command  of  General  Wayne.  It 
continued  to  be  a  military  post  until 
1819.  The  Miamis  were  not  removed 
westward  until  1841. 

Tern  Hante  is  on  the  western  bound- 
ary of  the  State,  upon  the  Wabash 
River ;  the  Wabash  and  Erie  Canal,  and 
the  great  line  of  railways  cros^ng  Ohio, 


Indiana,  aod  Illinois ;  from  Wheeling, 
Ya.,  through  Zanesville,  Columbus, 
Xema,  and  Dayton,  Ohio,  Indianapolis, 
Indiana,  and  extending  westward  to  St. 
Louis ;  communicating  with  Cincinnati, 
Louisville,  Chicago,  Cleveland,  and  all 
other  points. 

The  town  is  most  pleasantly  situated 
upon  a  bank  60  feet  above  the  Wabash. 
Fort  Harrison  Prairie,  which  sweeps 
away  to  the  eastward,  is  famous  for  its 
ohairmiug  landscape. 

La  Fayiatte  is  upon  the  Wabash 
River,  and  the  Wabash  and  Erie  Canal, 
and  at  the  intersection  of  the  New 
Albany  and  Salem  Road  from  Michigan 
City  on  Lake  Michigan,  to  New  Albany 
on  the  Ohio ;  the  La  Fayette  and  India- 
napolis Road  from  Cincinnati,  via  In- 
dianapolis and  the  Toledo,  Wabash,  and 
Western  road  from  Toledo  on  Lake 
Erie;  from  Toledo  (railway  always) 
208  miles ;  from  Indianapolis,  64  miles ; 
from  New  Albany  (Ohio  river),  197 
miles;  from  Michigui  City  (Lake  Mi- 
chigan), 91  miles. 

Zhransville  is  upon  a  high  bank  of 
the  Ohio,  near  the  south-west  extremity 
of  the  State,  200  miles  from  the  Missis- 
sippi, and  the  same  distance  below 
Louisville  in  Kentucky.  A  railway  ex- 
tends north  to  Yincennes  on  the  Ohio 
and  Mississippi  route  (between  Cincin- 
nati and  St.  Louis)  to  Yincennes,  61 
miles,  and  to  Terre  Haute  109  miles 
(from  Evansville). 


ILLINOIS. 

Illinois  extends  northward  880  miles,  and  westward  (at  the  extremest  point) 
200  mUes.  Wisconsin  lies  on  the  north,  Lake  Michigan  and  Indiana  on  the  east, 
Kentucky  on  the  south  (the  Ohio  between),  and  Missouri  and  Iowa  on  the  west, 
the  Ml'^iissippi  intervening. 

The  general  surfiuse  of  the  country  here,  as  in  Indiana  and  Ohio,  is  that  of 
elevated  table  lands  inclined  southward,  though  it  is  more  level  than  the  neigh- 
boring States.  In  the  lower  portions  there  is  a  small  stretch  of  hilly  land,  and 
some  Inroken  tracts  in  the  north-west ;  and  upon  the  Illinois  River  there  are  lofty 
blufb,  and  yet  higher  and  bolder  points  on  the  Mississippi. 


Tha  Fndrias.    The  great  landscape  I  try,  this  unique  phase  of  Nature  being 
feature  of  Illinois  is  the  prairie  coun- 1  seen  here  in  its  most  marked  and  hap- 


njjNon. 


889 


PniriM— Prodnetk 


piest  humor.  No  matter  wluit  may 
be  ita  oharaoter,  every  work  of  art  or 
nature,  eamesUv  and  magnificently 
done,  affects  and  intereata  ue  human 
mind  and  heart.  The  want  of  variety 
and  caprice  which  are  ordinarily  essen- 
tial to  landscape  attraction,  are  more 
than  compensated  in  the  prairie  scenery, 
as  in  that  of  the  bouncUess  ocean,  by 
the  impressive  qualities  of  immensity 
and  power.  Far  as  the  most  searching 
eye  can  reach,  the  great  unvarying 
plain  rolls  on;  its  sublime  grandeur 
softened,  but  not  weakened  by  the  oc- 
casional groups  of  trees  in  its  midst, 
or  by  the  forests  on  its  verge,  or  by  the 
countless  flowers  every  where  upon  its 
surface ;  any  more  than  is  the  sea,  by 
the  distant  sail  here  and  there,  by  the 
far-off  surrounding  hills,  or  by  the  glit- 
tering sparkles  of  its  crested  waves. 

The  Ovuid  Fndile,  here,  is  the 
most  striking  example  in  the  country 
of  this  aspect  of  Nature.  Its  gently 
undulating  plains,  proilisely  decked  with 
flowers  of  every  hue,  and  skirted  on 
all  sides  by  woodland  copse,  rolls  on 


through  manv  long  mttes  from  Jackson 
Ooonty,  north-eas^to  Iroquois  County, 
with  a  width  varying  firom  one  to  a 
dozen  or  more  miles.  The  uniform  level 
of  the  prurie  region  is  supposed  to  re- 
sult from  the  depodts  of  waters  by  which 
the  land  was  ages  ago  covered.  Tha 
soil  b  entirely  free  from  stones,  and  ia 
extremely  fertile.  The  most  notable 
characteristic  of  the  prairies,  and  their 
destitution  of  vegetation,  excepting  in 
the  multitude  of  rank  grasses  and 
flowers,  will  gradually  disappear,  since 
nothing  prevents  the  growth  of  trees 
but  the  continual  fires  which  sweep 
over  the  plains.  These  prevented,  a 
fine  growth  of  timber  soon  springs  up ; 
and  as  the  woodlands  shall  be  thus  as- 
sisted in  encroaching  upon,  and  occupy- 
ing the  pluns,  human  settlements  and 
h{u[>itations  will  follow,  until  the  -prairie 
tracts  shall  be  overrun  with  cities  and 
towns. 

The  Agrionltanl  OapaUlltlM  of 
Illinois  are  not  surpassed  any  where 
in  the  Union.  The  soil  on  her  river 
bottoms  is  often  26  or  80  feet  deep» 


Prairie  on  Fire,  HHnols. 


840 


ILUNOIS. 


MInenU— Bprlncs— Blvcn. 


i  : 


;•     '      •.. 


•nd  the  upper  prairie  diatriots  are  hardly 
less  produc^ve.  The  richest  tracts  In 
the  State  are  the  great  Amerioan  Bot* 
torn,  lying  along  the  Missisaipiri,  be< 
tween  the  mouths  of  the  Missouri  and 
the  Easkaskia  Rivers,  a  stretch  of  80 
miles,  the  country  on  the  Rock  River 
and  its  branches,  and  that  around  the 
Sangamon  and  other  waters.  Forty 
bushels  of  wheat,  or  100  bushels  of 
Indian  com  to  the  acre,  is  a  common 
product  here.  In  the  growth  of  In- 
dian com,  lUinois  ranks  as  the  third 
State  in  the  Union ;  and  her  population 
and  the  amount  of  land  emyloyed  con- 
iddered,  she  is  the  first.  In  respect  to 
other  agricultural  staples  and  pioduots, 
whbt  we  have  aaid  of  the  acyoining 
States  of  Ohio  and  Indiana,  may  be  re- 
peated of  IlUneis ;  so  of  the  forest  trees 
of  the  country. 

In  Mbmral  RfltonroM  the  State  is 
well  provided.  She  shares  with  the  ad- 
joining States  of  Iowa  and  Wisconsin, 
extenfflve  supplies  of  lead.  The  trade 
in  this  minenU  is  the  chief  support  of 
the  prosperous  town  of  Oalena,  in  the 
north-west  part  of  Illinois.  More  than 
thirteen  millions  of  pounds  of  lead  have 
been  smelted  here  in  one  year.  Bitu- 
minous coal  exists  every  where,  and  may 
be  procured  in  many  places  without  ex- 
cavation. The  Bliub,  near  the  Great 
American  Bottom,  contain  immense 
beds.  In  the  south  part  of  the  State 
iron  is  said  t(  be  abundant ;  and  in  the 
north,  copper,  zinc,  lime,  fine  marbles, 
freestone,  gypsum,  and  quartz  crystals. 
Some  silver,  too,  has  been  said  to  exist 
in  St.  Clair  County. 

Medicinal  Spriiiga,  sulphur  and 
chalybeate,  are  found  in  vanous  parts 
of  the  State.  In  Jefferson  county  there 
is  a  sprine  very  much  resorted  to,  and 
in  the  southern  part  of  the  State  are  some 
waters,  which  taste  strongly  of  Epsom 
salts. 

Excepting  the  speciality  of  the  prai- 
rie, the  most  interesting  landscape 
scenery  of  this  State,  is  that  of  the  bold, 
acolivitous  river  shores  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, the  Ohioy  and  the  Illinois,  more 
partacuUiriy 
The  MiiMirippi  forma  from  the  entire 


western  boundary,  and  n^v  of  the  moat 
remarkable  pictures  for  which  its  upper 
waters  are  famous,  occur  in  this  region, 
the  tall,  eccentrically  shaped  bluffs  ria> 
ing  at  diflbrent  points  from  100  to  600 
feet.  The  Fountain  Bluff,  of  the  Misais- 
sippi,  is  in  Jackson  County ;  it  is  odd  in 
form,  is  6  miles  in  circuit,  and  800  feet  in 
height;  the  summit  is  fiill  of  rink  holes. 
See  '*  MiMtittippi  Biver,^  elsewhere. 

TIm  ZUinou,  the  largest  river,  here, 
flows  through  the  centre  of  the  State, 
south-westerly  into  the  Mississippi, 
20  miles  above  Alton.  Exclusive  of 
its  branches,  the  Des  Fkdoes  and  the 
Kankakee,  its  length  ia  about  820  miles. 
Its  navigable  waters  extend  at  some 
seasons  206  miles,  to  Ottawa,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Fox  river.  Peoria  is 
upon  its  banks,  200  miles  up.  Half  a 
hundred  steamboats  plv  upon  this  river. 

The  picturesque  heights  of  the  lUi- 
nois,  called  the  Starved  Rock,  and  the 
Lover's  Leap,  are  a  few  miles  only  below 
Ottawa.  Starved  Rock,  6  miles  down 
the  river,  is  a  grand  perpendicular  lime- 
stone cliff,  160  feet  in  height.  It  was 
named  in  memory  of  the  fate  of  a  party 
of  IlUnois  Ind'uns,  who  died  on  the 
rock  from  thirst,  when  berieged  by  the 
Fottawatomies.  Lover's  Leap  is  a  pre- 
cipitous ledge  just  above  Starved  Rock, 
and  directly  across  the  river  is  Buffalo 
Rock,  a  height  of  100  feet.  This  emi- 
nence, though  very  acclivitous  on  the 
water  side,  slopes  easily  inland.  The 
Indians  were  wont  to  drive  the  Buffaloes 
in  frightened  herds  to  and  over  its  fear- 
M  brink.  Lake  Peoria  is  an  expansion 
of  the  Illinois,  near  the  middle  of  the 
State.  Above  Vermilion  lUver  there 
are  some  rapids,  which  boats  pass  only 
in  periods  of  high  water. 

TIm  Ohio  bounds  the  State  on  its 
southern  extremity.  It  ia  in  this  part 
of  Illinois  (Hardin  County)  that  the  fa- 
mous Cave  hi  the  Rock  of  the  Oliio  shore 
occurs.    See  Ohiojtiver. 

The  Wabash,  on  the  Eastern  bound- 
ary, divides  Illinois  in  the  lower  portion 
from  Indiana.    See  Indiana. 

Book  River  flows  830  miles  from 
the  neighborhood  of  Lake  Winnebago, 
iu  Wisconsin,  to  the  Mississippi,  a  little 


ILLINOIS. 


841 


Ballwajn— Gitjr  of  GhlMgo. 


below  the  town  of  Rook  Island.  It 
enters  Illinois  at  Beloit,  and  afterwards 
passes  Rockford  and  Dixon.  The  course 
of  Rock  River  is  throueh  a  rich  Talley 
or  plain,  remarkable  ror  its  pictorial 
interest.  The  navigation  of  its  waters 
is  mnch  obstructed  bv  rapids ;  for  it  is, 
unlike  the  sluggish  IlUnois,  a  bold,  swift 
stream,  with  a  will  and  way  of  its  own. 
Small  steamboats  ascend  sometimes, 
however,  226  miles,  to  Jefferson,  in 
Wisconsin. 

The  Dm  FlaliiM  flows  ISO  miles 
from  the  south-east  corner  of  Wiscon- 
sin  to  Dresden,  where  it  unites  with  the 
Kankakee  and  forms  the  Illinois. 

The  Kankakw  comes  from  the 
northern  part  of  Indiana,  100  miles  to 
Dresden.  Its  course  is  sluggish  and 
through  a  region  chiefly  occupied  by 
prairies  and  marshes. 

The  Sangamon  travels  200  miles 
to  the  Illinois,  about  10  miles  above 
Bardstown.  Small  steamers  ascena  it 
in  high  water.     ^ 

The  Fox  Riv«r  comes  200  miles 
from  Wisconsin  to  the  Illinois,  at  Ot- 
tawa. 

The  Vermilion,  the  Embarras  and 
the  Little  Wabash,  are  tributaries  of 
the  Wabash  from  Illinois. 

Ziake  Miohigan  forms  60  miles  of 
the  northern  boundary  of  the  State. 
Excepting  the  e^cpansion  of  the  Illinois 
River,  called  Lake  Peoria,  and  the 
waters  of  Pishtaka,  in  the  north-east, 
there  are  no  other  lakes  of  import* 
ance. 

Railway!  abound  in  Illinois  as  in 
all  parts  of  the  West.  The  whole  coun- 
try is  traversed  in  all  directions  by  grand 
lines  of  iron  road,  which  unite  M  its 
cities  and  towns  to  each  other  and  to 
all  the  surrounding  States.  At  a  mode- 
rate count  we  may  speak  of  the  miles 
of  railway  here  in  thousands. 

In  no  part  of  the  Union  have  towns 
and  cities  sprung  up  so  rapidly  and  in 
such  wonderful  growth  as  in  Hlinois — 
increasing  so  fast  in  population,  that 
the  census  of  one  year  is  no  standard 
by  which  to  count  the  people  of  the 
next.  Chicago,  for  exc.mple,  was  occu- 
pied in  1881  only  by  tiixe  wigwams  of 


the  Indians,  and  at  this  day  its  popula* 
tion  numbers  nearly  160,000. 

Ohioago— From  New  York—To  But- 
fUo  or  Niagara  Falls,  by  the  New  Toric 
and  Erie,  and  the  Hudson  River  and 
Oentral  railways;  firom  IHagara,  by  the 
Great  Western  Ridlrosd.  (Canada)  to 
Detroit,  and  from  Detroit  through  Michi- 
gan by  the  Michigan  Central  Raihroad; 
or,  from  Buffalo  by  the  Lake  Erie  steam- 
ers ;  or  the  rdlway  on  the  Lake  Shot*, 
through  Erie,  Pa.,  Cleveland  and  San- 
dusky to  Toledo,  and  thence  by  the 
Southern  Michigan  route. 

From  Phitidelphia — Pennsylvania 
Railroad,  865  miles  to  Pittsburg ;  888 
miles  by  Pittsburg,  Fort  Wayne  and 
Chicago  Railroad  to  Plymouth;  from 
Plymouth  to  La  Porte,  80  miles ;  from 
La  Porte  to  Chicago,  68  miles.  Total, 
826. 

Botala  in  Chicago.— The  Tremont 
Houae,  comer  of  Dearbone  and  Lake 
streets,  |2  60  per  day ;  the  BUfga'  Houm^ 
comer  of  Randolph  and  Wells  streets. 
$2  60;  Metropolitan,  opposite  Biggs* 
House,  $2  00 ;  Richmond  Uouety  (opened 
October,  1866,)  comer  Wabash  aVenue 
and  Lake  street,  near  the  Great  Central 
D6p6t. 

Chicago  is  the  largest  and  most  im- 
portant city  in  Illinois,  and,  in  its  rapid 
growth,  the  most  remarkable  in  the 
Union.  In  1881  it  was  only  an  Indian 
trading  post,  and  as  late  as  1840  its 
population  did  not  number  6,000,  while 
to-day,  it  can  scarcely  fall  short  of 
160,000.  Its  progress  so  far  and  its 
eligible  position,  seem  to  point  it  out  as 
the  future  commercial  metropolis  of  the 
north-west.  It  is  in  the  north-eastera 
boundary  of  the  State,  on  the  southern 
shore  of  Lake  Michigan.  The  site  is  an 
extremely  level  plain,  stretching  away 
for  long  miles  in  beautiful  and  fertile 
prairies.  The  city  is  divided  into  three 
portions  by  the  two  branches  of  the 
Chicago  River,  which  unite  within  a 
mile  of  the  lake.  The  streets  cross  each 
other  at  right  angles,  and  are  often 
paved  with  planks.  The  Michigan  and 
the  Wabash  avenues — ^the  one  on  the 
lake  shore  and  the  other  next  behind— 
are  noble  thoroughfitres,  in  their  extent. 


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iM^  MeUteetme,  and,  more  espeeiidly, 
in  A^  ine  Uses  of  nobte  tieei. 

The  trariBW»  qniurter  of  Ghioago  is 
thai  tapMn  the  south  dde  of  the  nver, 
irl^lliflineat  ]MiYSteiiitturii<Hui  occupy 
the  nordtern  seetioiis. 

me  most  steikiag  of  the  pablie  edi- 
fioes  here,  are  the  MtrchaaM  Iheehantu 
and  0omt  Bonuet  oonstructed  of  Locs- 
Mfft  Umestone,  the  JTorifM  Bbniial^ 
huilt  of  MUitAukee  briek,  the  MtHeal 
Oolkg*  and  the  ^SmmmI  PrtOmt^rim 
iStMHrdk^  This  last  motioned  emfice  is 
a 'Ootfiio  Btrootore,  with  a  steepto  200 
fiMt  high;  and  it  is  more  parttculudy 
lemarkaUe  for  the  material  of  which  it 
Is  made— a  dngolarj^tchystime,  seamed 
with  streaks  brdaricer  and  lii^tweolors, 
fat  odd  oimtnst.  Tliere  we  some  seTenty 
or  more  otherohnrehes  hi  tiie  city,many 
of  them  of  great  cost  and  elegance. 

Oldoago,  with  its  immense  raUway  and 
water  fiMsUities,  b  witUn  ready  and 
speedy  reaeh  of  all  the  cities  and  towns 
«f  nUnois  and  the  ndghbOring  States, 
and  is  -an  important  dep6t  upon  most 
of  the  great  routes  from  the  Atiantio  to 
all  the  nortb>westem  sections  of  the 
Uidon. 

flhilttiff  is  in  the  extreme  north-west 
comer  6f  the  State,  upon  the  Fevre 
UTer,  rix  milea  from  its  entrance  faito 


the  HississippL  It  Is  460  mOes  abOTje 
St.  i*ouis,.and  171  fi«m  CSiicago,  by 
the  Galena  and  Ohicago  ITnion  BiSllway. 
(See  Chicago,  for  routes  to  jthat  pbce 
hKnm  the  Athmtic  cities.)  Sprii^eld, 
the  capital  of  the  State,  is  260  miles  be- 
low.  The  Ferre  ItiTer.  upon  a  rocky 
ledge  of  which  Galena  is  built,  may  be 
considered  as  an  arm  or  bay  of  the 
MisnsdppL  The  dtui^tion  is  bold  and 
picturesque,  amidst,  lofty  bluffiu  The 
streets  rise  in  terraces,  one  aboTc  the 
OtlMr,  communicating  by  stairways  or 
ftops,  making  a  very  noTcl  and  stiikhig 


picture.  B^w,  on  the  lev^e,  are 
the  business  dep6ts.  Next  come  the 
churches  and  other  public  edtiices;  and 
yet  above,  rise,  file  on  file,  elegant-pii- 
rate  dwellings  and  villas. 

Galena  is  famous  as  the  centre  of  tilw 
great  lead-miidng  districts  of  the  Upper . 
Mississipiri.    Gopper,  too,  is  found  in 
conailderable .  quantity  in  the  country 
around. 

With  its  ndlroad  and  steamboat  ac- 
cess to  all  points  of  the  State,  and  of  the 
vast  territory  on  the  north-west,  it  pro- 
mises soon  to  double  and  teeble  its  pre- 
sent population  of  perhaps  12,000. 

The  Dt  Soto  JStnuo  here  is  an  excelient 
hotel 

BprimltoM,  the  cMjitsl  of  IBfaiols. 


iLLoren* 


m 


From  N«w  YoriK,  tk-BoflUo  or  DniH 
kiilt,  N.  T.;  OleVeluid,  OrMdiiie,  aad 
BettefboteiiMi  OUo;  and  IndiaBi4[iolii, 
KadUna.  (See  derelaad  and  Xn^Uma* 
iM>Us.) 

From  CSndnaati^  lia  I&diaiiMoBfl. 

From  Si.  Xooia,  vp  97  mim,  ai|d 
firomOUeagodbiM  188  milea,  on  the 
Ghioago,  Anon,  aad^  Louis  Railway. 

Spnuigfield  lies  soath-west  of  Ura 
centre  of  tlie  State,  near  the  Sangamon 
Rirer,  upon  the  confines  of  a  beantiful 
prairie  Strict.  In  the  centre  of 
the  dty  is  a  sqttar^  ocoapied  bj  the 
State- €ai{tftol  and  other  public  e^oes, 
and  encompassed  by  qNmous  and  ele- 
gant streets.  Sidtways  ifiverge  towards 
ail  points.  The  ^polationof  Sprliw* 
field,  in  18fi3,  amounted  to  neaify 
7,000. 

Poprin  Ues  north-west  of  the  oentre 
of  the  State,  upon  the  Illinois  River,  at 
the  meeting  of  the  Peoria  Branches  of 
the  Ohid^  and  Boole  Island  RdlWa3rs. 
By  these  routes  it  is  connected,  more  or 
leas .  directly,  with  all  the  other  towns 
oflllhiois  and  neighboring  States.  From 
Chicago,  160  miles;  firom  Rock  Ishmd, 
114  miles;  from  Springfield,  70  miles 
north;  from  St  Louis,  167  miles. 

Peoria  is  the  most  populous  place 
upon  the  IlUnois;  and,  commercially, 
the  most  important  in  the  State.  "It 
is  situated  upon  rising  ground,**  says  a 
traveller;  **  a  broad  plateau,  extending 
back  from  the  blul5--«uid  the  river  ex- 
panding into  a  broad,  deep  lake.  This 
lake  is  the  most  beautiful  feature  in  the 
scenery  of  Peoria,  and  as  useful  as  it 
is  beautiful,  fbr  it  supplies  the  iidiablt- 
ants  with  ample  stores  of  fish;  and,  in 
winter,  with  abundance  of  the  purest 
ice.  It  is  often  firoien  to  such  a  thick- 
ness that  heavy  teams  can  pass  securely 
over  it.  A  substantial  drawbridge  con- 
nects the  town  with  the  opposite  shores 
of  the  river.  The  city  is  hdd  out  in 
rectangular  blocics,  the  streets  being 
wide  and  well  graded.  The  schools  and 
churches  are  prosperous,  and  the  society 
good.  A  publio  square  has  been  re- 
served near  the  centre.  Back  of  the 
town  extends  one  of  Uie  finest  rolling 
pndrles  in  the  State,  which   ahready 


fhmisbes  to  Peoria  its  fop^Bsa,  and 
much  of  its  businefls.**  A^  post  was  e*> 
tabtfshed  here  bv  La  SaUe  as  earljy  |ui 
ljS84^  but  the  Uatory  of  tho  pit^m% 
ioira  dates  only  from  1819.  1%epop»i 
latkm,  in  1868,  amomted  0  8,000. 

Alton  is  upon  ^e  Itississipl^t  2& 
miles  abOTO  St.  Looiii,  on  tlw  Terr^ 
&mte  and  Alton  Railway^  direci  foate 
from  Phihtdelphis,  by  the  Pennsylvania 
Road  to  Pittsburg,  Fa. ;  thence  to  Co- 
lombia and  Dayton,  <%io,  and  to  Indian- 
iqmlis  and  Terrs  Hante,  Indiana.  It 
is  S60  mileB  bek>w  Cliieafa.  and  185 
bdow  Sprin^eld,  by  tiie  €aii<»^,  Al* 
ton,  and  St.lU»iis. line; 

The  Xissfttri  epters  the  lilsdsappi 
thrse  miles -iMtoir  Alton,  contribnt^g 
grsaiJLy  10^^  #flamerdal  value  of  its 
position.  It  is,  besides,  one  iol' the  best 
landings  on  the  great  iiver<  The  pre- 
sent city,  of  abont  10,000  people,  has 
grown  np  since  188^  at  whtoh  tim^ 
the  Penitentiary  was  estabUshed  here. 
Upper  AUon  is  the  seat  of  the  ShiirtMr 
OBaptist)€olloge. 

Qdnoy  (po|wdation,  in  1886,  abonl 
18,000)  is  upon  the  Mississippi,  170 
miles  above  St.  Louis,  and  104  ndles 
west  of  Springfield;  868  miles  from 
Oltioago,  by  the  Oldoago  and  BurUagton 
Road,  168  miles  to  Galesbuig ;  and 
thence,  100  milss,  by  the  l^rthem 
Cross  Railway.  By  these  lines  Quincv 
is  oonnected  ako  with  Qalena,  Row 
Island,  Peoria,  and  other  cities.  The 
town„is  buOt  upon  a.limesttme  blufl^ 
12S  feet  above  uie  river,  in  tlie  vieiiu^ 
of  a  fertile  rolling  iwairie. 

|lo6k  laiaiid  hi  two  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Rock  Island  lUver,  on  the 
Missisaippi,  at  the  foot  of  .the  Upper 
Rapids,  which  extend  18  mites.  It  is 
upon  the  great  highway  from  the 
I&MBtem  States  to  Iowa  and  the  northr 
■west;  firom  Chicago,  182  miles;  from 
Iowa  City  (westward),  64  miles.  This 
city  is  nfmed  after  a  large  island  near 
by.  It  is  a  picturesque  and  most  thrii^ 
tngplace. 

jrara  is  upon  the  DUnois  River,  and 
the  Chicago  and  Botk  Island  Raitwajt 
at  the  intersection  of  the  Ilfinds  Central 
Road.    From  Chicago,  100  nlUes ;  frma 


l,;S:3i 


844 


MIOHIOAX. 

NftaTO(V  UL— State  of  Mlclilgan. 


■ 


Rodk  Islftnd,  82  miles.  The  Illinois  a^d 
Iflchigan  Canal  terminates  near  Pern. 
Hie  town  is  very  advantageously  situ- 
ated, witli  suoli  ready  and  general  rail- 
way access,  and  bdng,  too,  as  it  is,  a^ 
the  head  of  natural'  navigation  on  the 
Illinois  River.  The  population  of  some 
thousands  is  rapidly  increasing. 

Nauvoo  is  on  the  Ifississippi  River, 
at  the  second  and  last  rapids  below  the 
Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  which  extend  up 
the  river  about  12  miles.  It  may  be 
easily  reached  from  Quinoy,  below,  or 
from  Burlington,  the  western  terminus 
of  the  Chicago  and  Burlington  Railway. 

This  *i8  the  dte  of  the  famous  Mor- 
mon City,  which  was  founded  in  1840, 
by  "  Joe  Smith"  and  his  followers,  and 
once  contained  a  population  of  18,000. 
It  is  located  on  a  bluff,  but  is  distin- 
guished from  every  thing  on  the  river 
bearing  that  namd,  by  an  easy,  graceful 
slope,  of  very  great  extent,  rising  to 
an  unusual  height, 'and  contaiiung  a 
smooth,  regular  surface,  which,  with 
the  plun  at  its  summit,  is  sufficient  for 
the  erection  of  an  immense  city.  Nau- 
voo  was  laid  out  on  a  very  extensive 
plan,  and  many  of  the  houses  were 
handsome,  structures.  The  great  Mor- 
mon Temple,  an  ol^eot  of  attraction,  and 


seen  very  distinctly  from  the  river,  was 
128  feet  long,  88  feet  wide,  and  66  feet 
high  to  the  top  of  the  cornice,  and  168 
feet  to  the  top  of  the  cupola.  It  would 
accommodate  an  assemblage* of  8,000 
persons.  It  was  built  of  compact, 
polished  limestone,  obtamed  on  the 
spot,  resembling  marble.  The  '  archi- 
tecture, although  oT  a  mixed  order,  in 
its  main  features  resembled  Doric.  In 
the  basement  of  the  Temple  was  a  large 
stone  basin,  supported  by  12  oxen  of 
colossal  saza ;  it  was  about  16  feet  high 
altogether,  all  of  white  stone,  and  well 
carved.  In  this  font  the  Mormons 
were  baptized.  This  building,  without 
an  equal  in  the  West,  and  worth  half  a 
million  of  dollars,  was  fired  by  an  in- 
cendiary, on  the  9th  of  October,  1848, 
and  reduced  to  a  heap  of  ruins.  Joe 
Smith  and  a  number  of  his  followers 
were  arrested  and  confined  in  the 
county  prison,  where,  in  June,  1844, 
they  were  put  to  death  by  a  mob,  dis- 
guised and  armed.  ExpeUed  from  Illi- 
nois, by  force  of  arms,  the  Mormon 
community  removed  to  their' present 
settlements,  in  Utah.  Since  tiien,  a 
company  of  French  socialists,  led  by 
M.  Cabet,  have  established  themselves 
here. 


MICHIGAN. 

Thb  unique  character  of  the  scenery  of  the  upper  peninsula  of  Michigan,  and 
the  present  easy  means  of  access,  promise  to  make  the  region  one  of  the  most 
popular  summer  resorts  in  the  Union.  Excepting  in  portions  of  its  southern 
boundary,  this  State  is  every  where^surrounded  by  the  waters  of  the  Great 
Lakes,  insomuch  that  it  has  a  coast  of  much  more  than  a  thousand  miles.  The 
country  is,  in  shape,  something  after  the  position  of  a  reversed  letter  ^  divided 
into  two  peninsidas.  All  the  northern  shore  of  the  upper  portion  or  top  stroke 
of  the  1,  is  washed  by  the  waters  of  Lake  Superior,  with  Lake  Huron,  Green 
Bay  and  Wisconsin  on  the  south.  Of  the  lower  peninsula,  Lake  Michigan 
forms  the  entire  western  boundary,  while  on  the  east,  there  are  Lakes  Hulron, 
St.  Clair  and  Erie,  and  Michigan  and  ^Huron  on  the  north.  Of  this  immense 
lake-coast,  860  miles  belong  to  Lake  Superior,  as  much  more  to  Lake  Michigan, 
800  to  Lake  Huron,  40  to  Lake  Erie  and  80  to  St.  Clair.  Besides  these  grand 
waters  which  encompass  the  State  about  like  a  girdle,  there  are  many  beautiful 
ponds  scattered  over  the  interior,  and  bearing  wither  the  picturesque  beauty  of 
tile  shores. 

The  southern  peninsula  is  more  interesting  in  an  agricultural  than  in  a  pic- 
torial point  of  view.    It  isinsor&oe  notably  unvaried--*  vast  plain,  indeed, 


momGAH. 


846 


History— Ballways. 


undulating  but  not  broken  by  any  eleyations  worthy  of  mention.  It  has,  how- 
ever,  peculiar  features  which  will  interest  the  traveller,  in  its  great  prairie  lands 
and  that  special  characteristic  of  the  western  landscape— 4he  Oak-Openings— 
a  species  of  natural  park  meagerlT  covered  with  trees. 

The  shores,  however,  even  of  this  part  of  Michigin,  are  often  jrfctnresquely 
varied,  with  steep  banks  and  bluffii,  and  shifting  sand-hills,  reaching,  sometimes, 
a  height  of  200  or  more  feet. 

ThS  romantic  lands  of  the  "Lake  State*'  are  in. the  upper  pminsula,  which 
is  rich  in  all  the  loveliness  of  rugged,  rock^  coast,  of  the  most  fantastic  and 
striking  character,  in  beautiful  streams,  rainds  and  cascades.  Here,  nfliking  a 
part  of  the  scenery  of  Lake  Superior,  which  we  have  elsewhere  visited,  are  Uie 
Wisconsin,  or  Porcupine  Mountains,  2,000  feet  in  height,  and  those  strange 
huge  castellated  masses  of  sandstone,  celebrated  as  the  Pictured  Rocks.  The 
famous  straits  of  Mackinaw  unite  the  convening  floods  of  Lakes  Huron  and 
Michigan  at  the  extreme  northern  apex  of  the  lower  peirinsula,  and  the  beauti- 
ful Sault  de  St.  Marie  conducts  the  wondering  tourist  fh>m  Lake  Huron  to  Lake 
Superior  on  the  north.  The  St  Mary  separates  the  upper  peninsula  at  its  north- 
eastern extremity  from  Canada.  The  Pictured  Rocks  are  about  60  miles  west  of 
this  passage.  Here  the  famous  white-fish  and.  other  finny  game  may  reward  the 
patience  of  the  angler. 

The  rivers  of  Michigan  are  chiefiv  small  streams,  but  many  of  them,  especially 
those  in  the  mountain  districts  of  tlie  north,  are  replete  with  pleasant  themes  for 
the  pencil  of  the  artist. 

The  lustory  of  this  State  has  more  pointe  of  interest  than  we  are  apt  to  find  in 
this  section  of  the  Union,  recording  as  it  does  some  memorable  incidents  of  In- 
^an  adventure  and  important  exploits  in  the  American  and  English  war  of  1812. 
After  England  had  dispossessed  the  French,  who  first  settled  the  country  in  the 
latter  part  of  the  seventeenth  century,  there  arose  among  the  Indian  tribes  the 
famous  chieftun  Pontiao,  who  availed  himself  of  the  opportunity  afforded  by  the 
outburst  of  the  Revolution,  to  attempt  the  entire  expulsion  of  the  white  invaders 
of  his  ancestral  lands.  This  chief  planned  a  general  attack  upon  all  the  English 
forts  on  the  lakes  ;  massacred  the  garrison  at  Macldnaw,  and  hud  riege,  for  some 
months,  to  Detroit 

From  its  contiguity  to  Oanada,  Michigan  was  called  early  into  the  field  in  the 
war  of  1812.  Detroit  was  surrendered  to  the  enemy  by  Qeneral  Hall,  August 
16th,  the  fort  at  Mackinaw  having  already  been  captured.  A  number  of  Ameri* 
can  prisoners  of  war  were  butchered  by  'the  Indhins  at  Frenchtown  on  the  22d 
of  January,  1818.  The  State  suflfered  at  this -period  many  trials,  until  General 
Hsirrison  at  length  drove  the  British  into  Canada,  carrying  the  war  into  their 
own  country.  Detroit  was  not  surrendered  to  the  United  States  until  1*796. 
Michigan  came  into  tiie  Union  as  an  independent  State  in  the  year  1887. 


Railwa3ri<— The  Michigan  Central 
railway  crosses  the  entire  southern 
breadth  of  the  lower  peninsula  firom 
Detroit,  282  miles,  to  Chicago,  Illinois. 
It  is  a  link  in  one  of  the  great  Missis- 
sippi routes  from  the  Eastern  States,  via 
Buffalo  and  magara  Falls  and  Canada. 

The  Michigan  Southern  road,  in  con- 
nection with  the  Northern  Indiana, 
traverses  the  southern  line  of  the  one 
State  and  the  upper  line  of  Ohio,  248 
16* 


miles  firom  Toledo,  Ohio  to  Chicago, 
Illinois.  lake  the  Michigan  Central,  it 
is  a  part  of  one  of  the  great  Western 
highways. 

Detroit  and  Mllw^iikM  Railway. 
— ^The  route  crosses  the  State  above  the 
line  of  the  Central  and  Southern  Michi- 
gan road.  It  will  extend  firom  Detroit 
to  the  Lake  Michigan  shore  opposite 
Milwaukee.  It  is  in  operation  at  pres- 
ent 80  miles  from  Detroit  to  Owosso. 


-:-i3a 


046 


inomGAN. 


Oltj  of  Detroit 


l^ie  Great  Wertern  (Oansda)  ndlwaj 
has  its  western  terminns  opposite  De- 
troit. Tlie  Orand  Trunlc  (Canada)  route 
vili  terminate  opposite  Fort  Haren,  at 
the  southern  eztremitj  of  Lalce  Huron. 

Detrait  from  Nnr  Tork.— By  the 
Hudson  River  or  Harlem  Railway  to 
Albany,  thence  by  the  Central  Railway 
to  Buffalo  or  Niagara„  Falls,  or  to  Buf- 
fiftlo  and  Niagara  By  the  Kew  Tork  and 
Erie  Railway.  (£we  these  routes  else* 
where.)  From  Bt^alo  or  Niagara,  take 
the  Great  Western  Ridlway  (Canada)  to 
Windsor,  opposite  Detroit.  Total  dis- 
tance from  New  Tork  about  6*78  miles. 
Detroit  may  dso  be  pleasantly  reached 
from  Buffalo  or  Dunkirk,  via  Cleveli^d, 
Sandusky  City  and  Toledo,  Ohio,  by 
the  railways  on  the  southern  shore  of 
Lake  Erie,  or  by  the  Lake  Erie  steam- 
ers. From  Chicago  to  Detroit,  by  the 
Michigan  Central^  or  by  the  Michigan 
Southern  and  Northern  Indiana  rail- 
ways; distance,  282  miles.  Seyeral 
trains  daily  on  all  these  routes. 

Botsla.— The  Biddle  Hmue,  Jeffer- 
son Avenue,  comer  of  Randolph  street, 
$2.60  per   day.    JUiehigan  Exchange^ 


Jefferson  Ayenne,  Shelby  and  Wood- 
bridge  streets. 

I>Btroit.is  one  of  the  gr^at  commer- 
cial depots  of  the  West,  and  the  chief 
city  of  Michigan.  It  is  pleasantly  situ- 
ated upon  the  Detroit  Rrrer,  a  Bnk  in 
the  chain  of  waters  which  unite  Lake 
Huron  and  Lake  Erie.  This  strait,  for 
such  it  is,  gives  the  city  its  French 
name— <i^frot<.  It  is  here  about  half 
a  nule  in  width,  and  is  charmingly  dot- 
ted with  beautiful  islands.  D^roit  oc- 
cupies a  pomtion  admirable  for  burfness 
activity,  being  directly  ifi  the  way  of 
the  flood  of  travel  and  transportation 
from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Mississippi,  and 
great  ndlways  and  steamers,  with  their 
freights,  necessarily  pytng  it  tribute. 
Not  only  is  the  .city  thus  commercially 
alive,  but  it  is  distinguished  also  for  its 
manufactories  of  many  kinds. 

Jtffwwn  and  Woodward  avenues, 
and  CorujireM  street^  are  flue  thorough- 
fares. The  Campus  Martins  is  a  good 
example  of  its  public  squares.  There  is 
a  fine  open  area  called  the  Orand  Cir- 
eus,  towards  which  the  avenues  of  that 
part  of  the  city  lying  back  of  the  river, 


lOBsoirfti. 


847 


Detroit  nd  other  Towat— fltate  of  Miawnri. 


eonverge.  The  Old  State  Houm  (De- 
troit was  the  oi^ital  of  Michigan  at  one 
time)  is  a  noteworthy  edifice,  with  its 
dome  and  its  tall  steeple  OTerlooking 
the  town  and  its  enTirons,  Lake  St 
Glidr  above,  and  the  Canadian  shores. 
The  City  Hall  is  a  brick  structore  of  a 
hundred  feet  fit^ade.  The  Bank  of 
Michigan  is  an  elegant  specimen  of 
Oreciui  architecture.  The  dty»  too, 
possesses  a  fine  Custom  House  and  a 
Murine  HospitaL 

Detroit  was  founded  by  the  French 
in  1670.  The  Capital  of  the  State  was 
here  until  it  was  removed  to  Lansing. 
The  present  population  is  approaching 
60,000. 

Tianringi  the  capital  of  Michigan,  is 
upon  the  Grand  Kver,  110  miles  north- 
west of  Detroit.  The  Detroit  and  MU- 
waukee  railway,  which  will  cross  the 
State,  approaches  very  near  Landng. 
At  Owosso  (the  point  to  which  it  is  iQ- 
ready  completed  from  Detroit,  80  miles) 
it  comes  within  the  cUstance  of  a  short 
ride.  Leinsing  became  the  seat  of  the 
State  govemmeat  in  1847,  at  "which 
period  it  was  almost  a  wilderness.  Its 
population  now  is  about  8,000. 

Ann  Arbour  is  a  flourishing;  place  of 
8,000  or  more  pleople,  on  the  hue  of  the 


Michigan  and  Centiyd  raOway,  87  mUes 
west  of  Detroit.  It  is  the  seat  of  the 
State  University,  founded  in  1887.  This 
Institution  is  liberally  endowed,  and 
has  about  200  students. 

TpsOaati  (population  from  8,000  to 
4,000)  is  upon  the  line  of  the  Central 
railway,  80  miles  from  Detroit. 

Michigan  towns  and  stations  on  the 
Central  ndlway,  and  thehr  distances 
from  Detroit:  Dearborn,  10  mdles; 
Wayne,  18  do. ;  Tysilanti,  80  do. ;  Ann 
Arbour,  87  do. ;  Dexter,  47  do. ;  Chelsea, 
64  do. ;  Orass  Lake,  66  do. ;  Jackson, 
76  do. ;  Farma,  86  do. ;  Albion,  96  do. ; 
MarshaJl,  101  do. ;  Battle  Creek,  120  do. ; 
Oalesburg,184  do. ;  Eahunazoo,  143  do. ; 
Mattawan,  — ;  Paw  Paw,  169  do. ;  De> 
catur,  167  do. ;  Dowagiac,  178  do. ;  Niles, 
191  do.;  Buchanan,  196  do. ;  Terre 
Coupee,  202  do. ;  New  Buffalo,  218  do. ; 
Michigan  City,  228  do. 

BAnuroe  Oily,  one  of  the  prindpal 
towns  of  Michigan,  (population  about 
4,000)  is  upon  the  Baisin  lUver,  two 
miles  from  Lake  Erie,  40  miles  below 
Detroit,  and  at  the  eastern  terminus  of 
the  Michigan  Southern  railway  for  Chi- 
cago and  the  West. 

Munroe  was  settled  by  the  French 
about  1776. 


MISSOTJKI. 

MissouBi  formed  part  of  the  ancient  territory  of  Louiriana,  purchased  by 
the  United  States  from  France.  A  settlement  called  Fort  Orleans  was  made 
within  its  limits  by  the  French  in  1719.  The  oldest  town  m  the  State,  St.  Ge- 
nevieve, was  founded  in  1766.  St.  Louis  was  commenced  in  1764.  The  State 
was  visited  in  1811  and  in  1812  by  a  memorable  series  of  earthquakes,  which 
occurred  in  the  vicinage  of  New  Madrid.  The  face  of  the  country  was  gready 
altered  by  these  events — ^hills  entirdy  disappeared ;  lakes  were  obliterated  and 
new  ones  formed.  The  waters  of  the  Misdssippi  river  were  turned  back  with 
such  accumulations  that  they  overran  the  levees  built  to  hem  them  in,  and  inun- 
dated whole  re^ons,  leaving  it  in  its  present  marshy  state.  Missouri  is  the  first 
of  the  States  formed  wholly  westward  of  the  Mississippi. 

lMiikid»eape  of  Mutouri.  The  surface  of  this  great  State  is  in  many  parts 
level,  or  but  slighdy  undulating.  A  wide  marshy  tract  occupies  an  area  of  8000 
square  miles  in  the  south-eastern  part,  near  the  Missisdppi.  In  other  sections 
are  vast  reaches  of  pndrie  lands,  extending  to  the  Bocky  Mountains.  The. 
Ozark  Mountiuns,  which  we  have  seen  traverring  also  the  State  of  Arkansas,  ex 
tend  through  MiaBouri,  centrdly,  from  north  to  south:  The  Ozark  hills  are  ele- 
vated table  lands.  The  rich  alluvial  tracts  of  the  Mississippi  lie  east  of  this  dis- 
triet,  and  westward  are  boundless  deserts,  and  treeless  phdns,  sweeping  away  to 
the  bam  of  the  Bocky  Mountain  ranges. 


348 


MI8SOX7BL 
Minerals— Prodneto—MlaKmri  BlTcr. 


IfliMnl  BeioacoM  of  BUmoutL 
This  State  ia  remarkably  rich  in  iron 
ore,  lead  and  copper  and  coal  mineft, 
aud  in  nearly  all  the  mineral  products. 
It  possesses,  too,  a  neat  variety  of 
marbles,  some  oftheQibeautifliUyyarie' 
g4ted,and  other  valuable  building  stones. 

A^^rioultiml  Prodnota.  ^e  chief 
staples  of  Missouri  are  Indian  corn, 
hemp,  tobacco,  flax,  and  all  the  varie> 
ties  of  grains,  fruits,  vegetables  and 
g;-asses,  for  the  successful  growth  of 
wUch  the  soil  is  admirably  adapted. 

^nie  BUnomi  Rivw.  The  restless, 
turbid  waters  of  this  magnificent  river 
tiow  fretfully,  3096  miles  from  their 
sources  in  the  remote  west  to  their  de- 
bouehure  in  the  Mississippi,  not  fitr  above 
t!ie  city  of  St.  Louis.  The  entire  length 
of  die  river,  including  its  course  to  the 
Golf  of  Mexico  by  the  Mississippi 
(1268  miles  more),  is  4,349  miles. 

The  head-waters  of  the  Missouri  are 
very  near  the  springs,  which  find  their 
way  to  die  Pacific  through  the  channels 
of  the  Columbia  Kver.  Their  course 
is  northward  for  600  miles,  until  they 
reach  the  remarkable  cataracts  known 
a.)  the  Oreat  FcUla.  Before  their  arri- 
val here,  however,  and  at  a  distance  of 
411  miles  from  their  source,  the  waters 
-make  the  grand  passage  of  the  bold 
chasms  called  the 

■  Oatet  of  the  Rocky  Mbuntmru. 
*'  Here,  through  a  length  of  six  miles, 
the  g^t  rocks  rise  perpendicularly  to 
an  elevation  of  1,200  feet.  The  dark 
waters,  in  their  narrow  bed,  wash  the 
b  use  of  Uiese  huge  walls  so  closely  that 
not  a  foothold  is  anywhere  to  be  found. 
It  is  a  ghostly  gorge  on  the  sui&iiest 
dAy,  but  when  its  habitual  gloom  is 
deepened  by  the  diadow  of  a  stormy 
sky,  its  sentiment  of  solitude  grows 
p\uifiilly  impressive.  Let  a  thunder 
poal  reverberate,  as  often  happens,  in 
a  thousand  wailing  voices  through  the 
rucky  windings  of  this  glen,  and  let  the 
it>lackne8S  of  darkness  be  increased  by 
the  vanished  gleams  of  the  lightning 
fliish,  and  you  think  you  have  left  this 
fair  worid  nr  behind  you.  ' 

**  We  were  once,  with  some  friends. 


traversing  this  passage  at  such  a  fear- 
fhl  moment  as  we  have  described,  when 
we  became  aware  that  we  were  pursued 
by  a  party  of  IndUns.  Noiselessly  and 
breathlessly  we  urged  on  our  canoes, 
pausing  at  intervals  only,  to  ascertain 
the  progress  of  our  foes,  hope  and  des- 
pidr  alternately  filling  our  breasts,  as 
we  seemed  at  one  mometit  to  be  gaining 
and  at  anotiier  losing  ground.  It  was 
only  now  and  then  that  we  caught  a 
glimpse  of  the  savages,  and  the' sound 
of  their  unceasing  and  unearthly  yells 
came  to  our  ears  with  such  uncertainty 
that  it  gave  us  no  clue  to  their  poirition. 
The  excitement  of  the  struggle  was  in- 
tense, as  their  randon\  arrows  flew 
about  our  ears,  and  as  the  deadly  effect 
of  our  fattd  riiots  was  told  to  us  by 
the  death-cries  from  their  own  ranks. 
.  '*  We  took  frefdi  courage  as  the  in- 
creasing light  spoke  our  approach  to 
the  terminus  of  the  glen,  and  gave  us 
hope,  once  on  terra  firma,  of  custanc- 
ing  our  foes.  New  fears,  though,  seized 
upon  us,  lest  our  scanty  sup^y  of  am- 
munition should  be  exhausted  before 
we  reached  the  prayed-for  sanctuary. 
Happily  the  dread  vanished,  as  the  ar- 
rows of  the  savages  sensibly  decreased 
in  numbers,  and  the  chorus  of  their  in- 
fernal shrieks  died  away. 

"  When  we  at  last  leaped,  panting, 
upon  the  open  shore,  not  a  sound  of 
pursuit  was  to  be  heard,  leaving  us  the 
glad  hope  that  we  had  shiin  them  all,  or 
so  many  as  to  secure  us  from  further 
danger.  But  not  stopping  to  verify 
this  supposition,  we  made  all  possible 
haste  to  reach  the  camp,  which  we  had 
so  guly  left  a  few  hours  before.  Once 
safe  among  our  companions,  we  men- 
tally vowed  to  be  wary  henceforth  how 
we  ventured  within  the  Gates  of  the 
Rocky  Mountahis.^* 

3%«  Oreat  Falh  of  the  MiuouH. 

The  descent  of  the  swift  river  at  this 
point  is  367  feet  in  16^  miles.  First 
comes  a  cascade  of  26  feet,  next  one  of 
27  feet,  then  a  third  of  19  feet,  and  a 
fourth  of  87  feet,  the  upper  and  high- 

*Th(i  Author^s  Bomuoe  of  AnwriesB  Land- 
eeape.    Leavitt  A  Allen,  N.  T. 


MISSOUBL 


840 


such  •  fear- 
loribedf  when 
were  pursued 
oiMlessly  and 
1  our  canoes, 
,  to  ascertain 
liope  and  des- 
ir  breasts,  as 
to  be  gaining 
rand.  It  was 
we  caught  a 
nd  the' sound 
learthly  yells 
h  uncertainty 
iheir  portion, 
•uggle  was  in- 

arrows   flew 

deadly  effect 
old  to  us  by 
own  ranks, 
ge  as  the  in- 

approach  to 
I,  and  gave  us 
a,  of  distanc- 
hough,  seized 
Bupi^y  of  am- 
lusted  before 
br  sanctuary, 
ed,  as  the  ar- 
bly  decreased 
IS  of  their  in- 

)d,  panting, 

a  sound  of 
saving  us  the 

them  aU,  or 
Ifrom  further 
kg  to  verify 

all  possible 

rhich  we  had 

ifore.    Once 

|>ns,  we  men- 

loeforth  how 

&tes  of  the 


ftMottn. 

I  river  at  this 
les.  First 
next  one  of 
feet,  and  a 

Br  and  high- 

omriesn  Land- 


Mtsaonrl  BiTer^BAllways. 


est.  Between  and  below  these  cata- 
racts  there  are  stretches  of  angry  rap- 
ids. This  passage  is  one  of  extreme 
beauty  and  grandeur,  and  at  some  day, 
not  very  distant  perhaps,  when  these 
western  frilds  shall  be  covered  with 
cities  and  towns  and  peacefiil  hamlets, 
this  spot  will  be  one  of  no  less  eager 
and  numerous  pilgrimage  than  many 
far  less  imposing  scenes  are  now.  The 
Falls  of  the  MiMOuri  are  esteemed  by 
the  few  tourists  whose  good  fortune  it 
has  been  to  look  upon  these  wonders,  as 
holding  rank  scarcely  below  the  cata- 
racts of  Niagara. 

The  upper  waters  of  the  Missouri 
flow  through  a  wild,  sterile  country, 
and,  below,  pass  vast  prairie  stretches. 

AboTd  the  river  Platte,  the  open  and 
prairie  obanoter  of  the  country  begins 
to  develop,  extending  quite  to  the 
banks  of  the  river,  and  stretching  from 
it  indefinitely,  in  naked  grass  plains, 
where  the  traveller  may  wander  for 
days  without  seeing  either  wood  or 
water.  Beyond  the  "Council  Blufi^," 
which  are  situated  about  600  miles  up 
the  Missouri,  commences  a  country  of 
great  interest  and  grandeur,  denomina- 
ted the  Upper  Missouri.  It  is  com- 
posed of  vast  and  almost  boundless 
grass  plains,  through  which  runs  the 
Platte,  the  Yellow  Stone,  and  the  other 
rivers  of  this  ocean  of  grass.  Buffaloes, 
elk,  antelopes,  and  mountain  sheep 
abound.  Lewis  and  Clark,  and  other 
respectable  travellers,  relate  having 
found  here  lai^  and  singuhir  petri£gu:- 
tions,  both  aninial  and  vegetable.  On 
the  top  of  a  hill  they  found  the  petri- 
fied skeleton  of  a  huge  fish,  46  feet  in 
length.  The  herds  of  gregarious  ani- 
mals, particularly  of  the  buffalo,  are 
innumerable. 

The  Missouri  is  navigable  for  steam- 
boats, except  during  periods  of  extreme 
drought,  2,675  miles,  firomits  mouth  to 
the  foot  of  the  Great  Falls. 

The  Yellow  Stone,  one  of  the  princi- 
pal tributaries  of  the  Missouri,  rises  in 
the  same  range  of  mountains  with  the 
main  stream.  It  enters  fi^m  the  south 
by  a  mouth  ^0  yards  wide,  and  is  a 
broad  and  deep  river,  having  a  course 


of  about  1,600  miles.  The  Platte, 
another  of  its  great  tributaries,  rises  in 
the  same  range  of  mountains  with  the 
parent  stream,  and,  measured  by  its 
meanders,  Is  supposed  to  have  a  course 
of  about  2,000  miles  before  it  joins  that 
river.  At  its  month  it  is  nearly  a  mile 
wide,  but  it  is  very  shallow,  and  is  not 
beatable  except  at  its  highest  floods. 
The  Kansas  is  a  very  large  tributary, 
having  a  course  of  about  1,200  miles, 
and  is  beatable  for  most  of  the  distance. 
The  Osage  is  a  large  and  important 
branch  of  the  Missouri;  it  is  beatable 
for  660  miles,  and  interlocks  with  the 
waters  of  the  Arkansas.  The  Gascon- 
ade, beatable  for  66  miles,  is  important 
from  having  on  its  banks  extensive  phue 
forests,  fh>m  which  the  great  supply  of 
plank  and  thnber  of  that  kind  is  brought 
to  St.  Loids. 

Railwayi  In  BOaaonri.  This  State 
is  destined,  as  a  chief  depot  for  the  pro- 
ducts of  the  Great  West,  to  be  the  cen- 
tre of  an  interminable  radiation  of 
Railways,  though  not  many  miles  of 
such  roads  have  yet  been  constructed 
within  her  territory. 

The  Pacific  Railway  commences  at 
St.  Louis,  and  has  been  completed  to 
Jefferson  City,  the  capital  of  the  State 
of  Missouri,  distant  126  miles.  The 
line  of  road  as  contemplated,  leaves  the 
Missouri  river  4  miles  above  Jefferson 
City,  and  runs  through  the  counties  of 
Moniteau,  Cooper,  Petters,  Johnson  and 
Jackson;  strikes  the  Missouri  river 
agun  at  or  near  Kansas  City,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Kansas  river. 

The  road  west  of  Jefferson  City  is  all 
tmder  contract,  and  the  Company  ex- 
pect to  have  40  miles  further  completed 
by  the  first  of  June,  1867.  The  di»> 
tance  from  St.  Louis  to  Kansas,  by  this 
line,  will  be  280  miles.  The  Company 
are  also  constructing  a  road  called  the 
South-West  Branch,  commencing  at 
Franklin,  37  miles  west  of  St.  lK>ui8, 
and  running  south-west,  striking  tiie 
western  boundary  of  the  State  in  New- 
ton County.  This  road  will  be  288 
miles  long. 

The  Company  have  over  one  million 
acres  of  Und  granted  to  aid  in  the  con- 


850 


inssouBi. 


city  of  6t  Lonit— BontM,  Hiatorj,  ato. 


■tniotion  of  th}8  branch  road,  which 
runs  throuffh  some  of  the  flnett  hmd  in 
Mitaouri,  aevelofw  the  iron  and  lead 
regions  on  the  head  of  the  Marameo, 
and  terminates  in  the  great  lead  region 
of  the  south-west. 

The  Railways  in  progress,  terminating 
at  St.  Louis,  are  the  Pacific  Railwav 
and  branch,  668  miles;  North  Missouri, 
290  miles;  besides  the  connections 
with  the  Hannibal  and  St.  Joseph  Bail- 
way,  220  miles ;  Iron  Mountain  Bail> 
way,  86  utiles  to  Pilot  Knob,  with 
branch  to  the  Misrissippi  river  at  or  be- 
low  Ckiro,  80  miles  more.  The  St. 
Louis,  Alton  and  Terre  Haute,  the  Ohio 
and  Mississippi,  and  the  Bc;llerille  RaU- 
ways,  all  terminate  opposite  to  St.  Louis, 
and  add  to  the  ikoUities  of  her  trade. 

Saint  iKMiia.  From  New  York,  via 
Ohic^o  (see  Chicago),  and.  thence  by 
the  Chicago,  Alton *and  St.  Louis  road; 
or  to  Cleveland,  Ohio,  696  miles  (see 
Cleveland) ;  from  Cleveland  to  Crestline 
by  the  Glevehind,  Cincinnati  and  Co- 
lumbus Hailroad,  76  miles;  Crestline  to 
Indianapolis  (Bellefontaine  Line),  206 
mile^;  Indianapolis  to  Terre  Haute 
(Terre  Haute  and  Richmond  route),  78 
miVsa ;  Terre  Haute  to  St.  Louis  (Terre 
Haute  and  Alton  road),  18*7  miles ;  to- 
tal, 11Z1  miles.  Or  from  Cincinnati  in 
a  direct  line  by  the  new  route  of  the 
Ohio  and  Misnssippi  Railwav. 

From  Philadelphia ;  to  Pittsburg  by 
the  Pennsylvania  Rdlway,  866  miles; 
Pittsburg  to  Crestline  (Pittsburg,  Fort 
Wayne  and  Chicago  road),  187  miles ; 
Crestline  to  Indianapolis  (Bellefontaine 
roads),  206  miles;  Indianapolis  to  Terre 
Haute  (Terre  Haute  and  Richmond 
road),  73  miles;  Terre  Haute  to  St. 
Louis  (Terre  Haute  and  Alton  line),  187 
miies ;  total,  1,008  miles. 

From  Baltimore ;  Baltimore  uidOhio 
road  to  Wheeling,  397  miles ;  to  Zanes- 
ville,  82  miles;  Columbus,  141  miles; 
Dayton,  71  miles;  Indianapolis,  108 
miles ;  Terre  Haute,  78  miles ;  St.  Louis, 
187  miles;  total,  1,069.' 

Hotelaof  St.  Louis.  Planter*s,  Fourth, 
between  Pine  and  Chestnut  streets; 
City  Hotd^  Tine  street ;  Yir^nia  Hotel, 
Main  street ;  the  United  States,  comer 


of  Marlcet  and  Third;  the  Missouri, 
Main  and  Morgan  streets;  tiie  Munroe, 
Second  and  OUve  streets.        ^ 

JRatoiy.  The  present  rite  of  the 
mat  city  of  St.  Louis  was  chosen  by 
lAolede  on  the  16th  of  February,  1764. 
It  was  settled  as  a  tradingstation  for 
the  trappers  of  the  West.  The  average 
annual  value  of  fhrs  brought  here  dur- 
ing the  fifteen  successive  years  ending 
with  1804,  was  $208,760.  The  number 
of  deer  skins  was  168,000;  beaver, 
86,900 ;  otter,  8,000 ;  bear,  6,100 ;  buf- 
falo, 860,  and  so  on.  At  this  period  of 
wild  life,  the  population  of  St.  Louis 
was  between  1,600  and  2,000,  half  of 
whom  were  always  away  ais  voyagewn 
and  trappers.  Up  to  1820,  the  number 
of  the  people  had  not  reached  6,000. 

In  1768  (August  11th),  Rious  and  his 
band  of  Spanish  troops  took  possession 
of  the  place,  in  behalf  of  Her  Catholic 
Majesty,  who  kept  possession  until  it 
was  transferred  to  the  United  States, 
March  26th,  1804.  The  first  brick 
house  was  built  in  1818.  The  first 
steamboat  arrived  in  1817.  The  his- 
tory of  St.  Louis  as  a  city  began  in 
1822,  with  the  name  bestowed  upon  it 
by  Laclede,  in  honor  of  Louis  XY.  of 
France.  Between  1826  and  1880,  emi- 
gration began  to  flow  in  from  IlUnois, 
and  the  place  thrived.  The  population 
in  1880  had  reached  6,694:  in  1840  it 
had  swelled  to  16,469 ;  in  1860  it  was 
77,860;  in  1862  it  was  (the  suburbs  in- 
cluded) over  100,000,  to  which  a  census 
to-day  would  add  very  many  more  thou- 
sands still.  This  is  the  magnificent 
way  in  which  cities  grow  in  the  Oreat 
West. 

St.  Louis  lies  upon  the  right  bank  of 
the  Mississippi  river,  20  miles  below  the 
entrance  of  the  Missouri,  and  174  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio.  It  b  744 
miles  below  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony, 
and  ]|194  miles  above  the  city  of  New 
Orleans.  It  is  built  upon  two  limestone 
plateaus,  one  20  and  the  other  60  feet 
above  the  waters  of  the  Misrissippi. 
From  the  plain,  into  which  the  upper 
terrace  widens,  fine  views  of  the  city 
and  its  surroundings  are  presented.  The 
entire  extent  of  St.  I^uis  along  the 


Bt  Loni*— Puka— PnblteBalMlafl 


801 


8t  Lonls,  MiaMOfl 


ouryes  of  the  river  is  about  *l  miles,  and 
back  some  8  ndles,  though  the  densely 
occupied  area  spreads  over  a  space  of 
only  2^  miles  riverward  and  l\  miles 
inland.  The  streets  are  of  good  width 
aad  regular.  Front  street,  stretching 
along  the  levee,  is  100  feet  in  breadth. 
This  highway,  and  Main  and  Second 
streets,  hack  of  and  paraUel  with  it, 
are  the  geat  commercial  streets. 

Lafayette  Square  is  almost  the  only 
public  park  of  importance  which  the 
city  yet  possesses. 

The  public  edUieee  cf  St  Louis,  in  Its 
municipal  buildings,  churches,  hotels, 
market-houses,  and  charitable  institu* 
tions,  are  in  every  way  creditable  to  the 
taste,  munificence  and  enterprise  of  the 
people.  The  (^yiTo//,  the  (TuatomiTouw 
and  the  Court  Smue,  are  worthy  of 
a  metropolitan  fame.  Of  the  chnrches, 
which  perhaps  much  exceed  60  in  num- 
ber, many  are  verv  imposing:  as  the 
Catholie  Cathedrw,  on  Walnut  street, 
between  Second  and  Third;  the  8t. 
George  (Episcopal),  at  the  corner  of 
Locust  and  Seventh  streets,  and  the 
Church  of  th«  Meeeiak  (Unitarian),  at 
the  comer  of  Olive  and  Nintii  streets. 
The  United  Statee  Arsenal  is  a  grand 


structure  in  the  south-east  part  of  the 
city ;  and  18  nules  below,  on  the  river 
banks,  are  the  Jefereon  Barraeke. 

If  the  visitor  at  St  Louis  should 
chance  to  be  benevolent,  or  literary,  or 
educational,  he  wQl,  perhaps,  like  to  look 
at  the  CituHoepital,  the  Marina  Ho^iM 
(8  miles  below  the  city),  the  Home  far 
the  JiyienOete,  the  Siatere'  ffo^pittd,  and 
the  Orphan  Amflume:  or  the  Uhiver- 
eity  of  St.  Xou««,  founded  m  1882  bv 
Roman  Oatholio  patronace;  the  Metk- 
eal  School,  connected  with  tibe  Univer-  - 
sity,  and  the  JfetUcal  DepartmeKt  (also 
here)  of  the  Mmowri  Univernty;  the 
Mercantile  Library  Aetoeiationf  estab- 
lished in  1846,  and  at  the  numeroot 
excellent  private  schools  and  convents. 
Let  the  stranger,  in  this  progressive 
metropolis  of  the  great  vuley  of  the 
Mississippi,  seek  his  pleasure  as  he  wlU, 
here  are  the  Opportunities  to  find  it 

Many  railways  bend  their  vast  iron 
tracks  towards  St  Loids  from  all  direo* 
tions  eastward,  and  soon  they  will  be 
converging  hither  from  tiie  Rocky  Monno 
tain  side ;  though  as  yet,  in  this  dire|C- 
tion,  and  indeed,  witmn  the-  limits  of 
the  State,  the  only  route  yet  in  operation 
is  that  of  the  Fadjie  Eailviajf,  extend- 


852 


XUMOUBI. 


OltlM  sad  TowM. 


ing  at  pr«Mnt  1S5  milM  wMtward  from 
St.  Louis  to  JeffiBnon  City,  the  e«pit«l 
of  the  Bute. 

St.  Louie  is  the  greet  iterting  point 
flrom  oiTilisfttion  ror  earegedoin — the 
^ece  where  adrenturere  for  KeoNi  and 
Nebraska,  and  Utah,  and  for  the  wild 
traverse  of  the  Bocky  Mountains  to  the 
Paoiflo  States  and  Territories— begin, 
their  rude  forest  Journey. 

JtffKBOir  Ol^,  the  capital  of  Mis- 
souri,  is  upon  the  Missouri  RiTer,  126 
miles  west  of  St.  Louis,  by  the  Pacific 
Railway,  or  155  miles  by  steamboats  up 
the  river.  The  situation  is  bold  and 
beautiful,  overlooking  the  turbid  waters 
of  the  Missouri  and  thehr  cliif-bound 
shores.  The  population  in  1 858  amount- 
ed to  about  8000.  Jefferson  City  Is  on 
the  great  route  to  Kansas,  Nebraska, 
Utah,  California,  and  all  the  Bocky 
Mountidn  region.    * 

St.  JoMfMfc^  is  upon  the  Missouri 
River,  840  miles  above  Jefferson  CHty 
and  49^  miles,  by  water,  from  St.  Louis. 
It  is  the  most  important  place  in  the 
western  part  of  the  State,  and  a  great 
point  of  departure  for  the  western  emi- 
grants. Population,  6,000.  See  Han- 
nibal. 

Hanirihal  is  upon  the  Misdssippi, 
168  miles  above  St  Louis  and  16  miles 
below  Quinoy,  Illinois.  A  railway  over 
200  miles  long  is  in  progress  across  the 
State,  which  will  connect  Hannibal 
with  St.  Joseph's  on  tlie  western  bound- 
ary. 

Lwrington  is  upon  the  Missouri 
lUver,  120  miles,  by  land,  from  Jefferson 
City.  The  town  has  prospered  by  its 
trade  with  the  Santa  F6  and  Great  Salt 
Lake  caravans.  Population  in  1868, 
about  4,000. 

St  OharlM  Oity  is  upon  the  Mis- 
souri, 22  miles  horn  its  mouth.  By  land 
itisdmilesbelowtheMissisrippi.  Pecu- 
lation, between  8,000  and  4,000. 

Oajw  Qirardoan  is  upon  the  Missis- 
sippi, 46  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Ohio.  The  8t.  Vincent  CoiUgt  is  located 
here. 

Wetton  is  upon  tbo  Missouri,  200 


miles  by  railroad  beyond  Jefferson  Ottv, 
and  6  miles  above  Fort  Leavenworth. 
With  the  exception  of  St.  Louis,  Jelfer- 
son  is  the  most  active  busineM  town  in 
the  State.  It  drives  a  busy  trade  with 
the  western  emigrants,  and  supplies  the 
garrison  at  Fort  Leavenworth. 

Palonrn  is  6  miles  f^m  Marion 
CHty.its  landing  place  on  the  Misslsrippi 
River.  The  railway  fVt>m  Hannibal 
across  the  State  to  St.  Joseph's  will  call 
at  Palmyra. 

Ourondakt  is  6  miles  below  St.  Louis, 
on  the  Mississippi. 

St  QvaafwUm  is  61  miles  below  St 
Louis,  on  the  Mississipirf.  It  is  the 
shipping  point  for  the  products  of  the 
Iron  works  at  Iron  Mountain. 

New  Madrid  was  formeriy  a  noted 
place,  but,  owing  to  the  dreacuhl  earth- 
quakes it  experienced  in  1811  and  1812, 
it  has  sunk  into  comparative  insignifi- 
cance. It  is  situated  on  a  great  curve 
or  bend  of  the  river,  the  land  being  ex- 
tremely low,  and  the  trees  along  the 
bank  presenting  a  great  uniformity  of 
appearance.  The  view  is  most  monoto- 
nous— a  feature,  indeed,  characteristic 
of  much  of  the  scenery  of  the  Lower 
Mississippi.  On  this  side  there  is  scarcely 
a  dozen  feet  elevation  for  the  distance 
of  100  miles.  By  the  earthquake  thou- 
sands of  acres  wepe  sunk,  and  multi- 
tudes of  lakes  and  ponds  were  created. 
The  church-yard  of  this  village,  with  its 
sleeping  tenants,  was  precipitated  into 
the  river.  The  earth  burst  in  what 
are  called  sand-blows.  Earth,  sand, 
and  water,  were  thrown  up  to  great 
heights  in  the  air.  The  river  was 
dammed  up,  and  flowed  backwards. 
Birds  descended  firom  the  air,  and  took 
shelter  in  the  bosoms  of  people-  that 
were  passing.  The  whole  country  was 
inundated.  A  great  number  of  boats 
passing  on  the  river  were  sunk.  One 
or  two  that  were  fastened  to  islands, 
went  down  with  the  islands.  The  coun- 
try was  but  sparsely  peopled,  and  most 
of  the  buildings  were  cabins,  or  of  logs ; 
and  it  was  from  these  circumstances  that 
but  few  people  perished. 


IOWA. 

Pnlriet— Stnk  Hole*— MIimii1»— BlTeiv— BalliraTa. 


858 


IOWA.  ' 

Iowa  is  one  of  the  new  States,  admitted  into  the  Union  in  1846.  It  lies  wholly 
berond  the  Misslsaippi,  which  washes  all  its  eastern  boundary.  On  this  side,  its 
neighbors  are  Wisconsin  and  Illinois.  On  the  north  is  Minnesota ;  on  the  west, 
Minnesota  and  Nebrasica,  and  upon  the  south,  Missouri.  The  Btat6  has  no  rtrj 
notable  history,  beyond  the  usual  adventure  and  hardship  of  a  lone  forest  life, 
among  savage  tribes.  The  settlement  of  the  region  was  seriously  began  (first  at 
Burliaffton)ln  the  year  1888. 

The  landscape  of  Iowa  is  marked  by  the  features  which  we  hare  traced  in  our 
visit  to  neighboring  portions  of  the  north-west.  The  surface  is,  for  the  most 
part,  one  of  undulatinjg  prairie,  varied  with  ridges  or  plateaus,  whose  extra  eleva- 
tions impel  the  diverse  course  of  the  rivers  and  streams.  The  Ooteau  des  Prai- 
ries enters  the  State  ftom  Minnesota,  and  forms  its  highest  ground.  On  the 
Mississippi,  in  the  north-east,  the  landscape  assumes  a  bolder  aspect,  and  pictures 
of  rugged  rooky  height  and  bluff  are  seen.  A  few  miles  above  Dubuque,  Table 
Mound  will  interest  the  traveller.  It  is  a  conical  hill,  perhaps  600  feet  high, 
flattened  at  the  summit. 


The  Pniflsii  which  are  sometimes 
20  miles  across,  present  many  scenes 
of  interest,  in  their  way — and  it  is  a  way 
not  unmtfeftil  to  the  unaccustomed 
eyes  of  the  viritor  flrom  the  AUanUc 
States — mouotonous  as  it  may,  possibly, 
grow  in  time.  The  rivers  in  some  parts 
of  the  State  wind  through  ravines  of 
magnesian  limestone,  amidst  which 
they  have  gradually  worked  their  way, 
leaving  the  rocks  'in  every  grotesque 
form  of  imagery. 

Siiik  Bowk-— The  depressions  in  the 
ground,  caUed  sinks,  are  curious  objects. 
These  singular  phu^  which  are  nume- 
rous, are  circular  holes,  10  and  some- 
times 20  feet  across.  They  abound 
more  partiotdarly  on  Turkey  River,  in 
the  upper  part  of  the  State.  Near  the 
mouth  of  this  stream  there  are  also  to 
be  seen  many  small  mounds,  sometimes 
rows  of  them,  varying  in  height  from 
4  to  6  feet. 

Minwralt. — Iowa  has  many  mineral' 
products,  among  which  is  an  abundant 
supply  of  lead.  Copper  and  rinc  are 
also  freely  found,  and j^enty  of  coaL 

The  SNm  MobiM  Rivar,  the  most 
important  stream  in  Iowa,  rises  in  Min- 
nesota and  flows  460  miles  through  the 
State,  to  its  south-east  extremity,- where 
it  enters  the  Mississippi,  4  miles  below 
Keokuk.  It  is  navigable  for  small  steam- 
ers 260  miles,  or  may  be  made  so,  with 
some  practicable  improvMuents. 


The  Iow«  Riw«r  is  800  miles  in 
length,  and  is  navigable  from  the  Mis- 
sismppi  upwards,  80  miles,  to  Iowa 
City.  The  Skunk  River,  200  miles,  the 
Oedar,  the  Makoqueta,  and  the  Wapsi- 
pincton,  are  aU  tributaries  of  the  Missis- 
sippi. 

The  MbmovaA  and  the  Great  Sioux 
rivers  form  the  entire  western  boundary 
of  Iowa. 

The  Lake  region  of  Southern  Minne- 
sota extends  into  the  upper  part  of 
Iowa,  giving  the  State  a  little  ware  of 
this  most  charming  phase  of  natund 
beauty. 

Bailwayi  ia  Iowa. — ^Many  great 
lines  of  railways  are  projected  here,  and 
will  no  doubt  be  soon  in  good  progress. 
Some  routes  are  already  in  operation. 

^e  Mississippi  and  Missouri  railway 
extends  from  Davenport,  opposite  Rook 
Island  (Illhiois),  on  the  Mississippi,  64 
mUes  to  Iowa  Gity,  connecting  the  latter 
place  with  the  routes  from  the  Atlantic 
States  to  the  West. 

The  Burlington  and  Missouri  ndlway 
is  another  link  between  Iowa  and  the 
great  routes  of  Illinois,  and  eastward  to 
the  Atlantic.  It  is  in  operation,  at 
present,  29  miles  from  Burlington,  on 
the  Mississippi,  opposite  the  western 
terminus  of  railways  from  Chicago  to 
Mount  Pleasant;  will  soon  be  opened 
to  Ottumwa,  on  the  Des  Moines  River. 

Dnbaqns. — ^To  reach  Dubuque  firom 


$S4 


IOWA. 


SabofiM— lom  Citf. 


f 


Boeky  Towen,  b«w  Dobaqoe^  U^er  WmiaiiwiL 


tb«  Atluitio  oitieSi  follow  either  of  the 
routes  thence  to  (Mcago,  niinoUu  See 
Chieago.  Or,  to  St.  Lods.  See  ^. 
Lorn, 

From  Ohioago;  proceed  hj  the  Galena 
and  Chicago  Union  Bailwaj,  through 
upper  Qlinoifl,  via  Galena,  184  n^es,  to 
Dubuque*  iVom  St.  Louis,  take  the 
steamer  up  the  Misrissipid  Biver,  400 
miles. 

Dubuque  is  upon  the  banhs  of  the 
Upper  Mississippi,  in  the  midst  of  a 
Teryi^pturesque  country.  Itis,faideed, 
if  ire  pos^bly  except  Iowa  C^ty,  the 
moat  beautiM  town  in  the  State.  It 
occupies  a  broad,  eleyated  terrace, 
which  stretches  along  the  great  river  for 
miles.  Many  fine  buildings  are  to  be  seen 
here.  Ntunerous  rkilways  of  the  west 
find  their  way  to  this  pdnt.  Dubuque  is 
the  oldest  town  in  Iowa,  having  been 
settled  by  the  French  as  long  ago  as 
1786.    ItspopuUiUon  is  about  10,000. 

Iowa  Olty  is  charminely  situated 
upon  some  oval  bluflb  of  the  Iowa  Biver, 
about  80  ndles  firom  the  meeting  of  that 
water  with  the  Misirisiipi^    It  may  be 


reached  firom  Chicago  (see  Chicago,  for 
routes  to  that  pointfrom  Vew Tork and 
other  j^es)  by  the  Clucago  and  Book 
Isbmd  Railway,  182  miles  m>m  Chicago 
to  Bock  Island,  on  the  M^arisnppi ;  and 
thence,  64  miles,  by  Uie  Misassii^i  and 
Missouri  Bailway.  From  St.  IdOtus,  bj 
thenUnois  Bailway,  or  by  the  ICssis^pj^ 
Kver,  to  Davenport;  and  thence,  64 
miles,  by  rulw^. 

The  nte  of  Iowa  CSty  was  a  wilder* 
neas,  in  1889,  when  it  was  selected  as  the 
seat  of  government  of  the  then  prospeo* 
tive  State.  Within  one  short  year  it 
had  a  population  of  600  or  700  people ; 
and  now,  ahnost  as  many  thousand*. 
The  town  is  delightfnily  embosomed  in 
shady  groves,  and  surrounded  by  fertile 
prairies.  At  the  intersection  of  the 
chief  street — the  Iowa  Avenue  and  Ca|M- 
tol  street,  which  are  each  100  feet  wide, 
stands  die  former  State  House,  a  hand- 
some Doric  building,  120  feet  inlengtii. 
It  is  constructed  of  ringed  and  spotted 
stone,  called  "  bird*8-eye  marble,*'  which 
was  quarried  in  the  ndghborhood, 
TUs  edifice,  and  its  extendve  grounds, 


WUCKmHH'. 


ws 


Burlington ud othMP Ttmvmlm lairi   Btata of Hlehlgu. 


have  beea  gnuted  to  the  Bute  UniTer- 
aity,  Fort  DM  Moines  beviiig  been 
Belected  es  the  fiiture  oai^toL  lihe 
State  i^lunu  for  the  deaf^  Uie  blind, 
and  the  dumb,  are  located  at  Iowa  City. 
The  Iowa  Birer  I9  at  all  times  navigable 
to  the  city. 

BurUaclQtti  formerly  the  cajdital  oi 
Iowa,  and  one  of  the  most  pc|>ulQtis 
Mid  importaal  iriaoes  in  the  State,  is' 
upon  the  ]Qiri^p|iA  Hirer,  260  miles 
above  ^  I<aidi,;'48  Biiles  abOTO  Keo* 
iiuk,  and  a8.'ii^  east*soath-east  of 
Iowa  pi^.  Be^  €hie«|(o,  for  rentes 
thither, mm  tbi  Atisintio  citiee^  and 
from  that  pointpfotieed  by  the  Cmcago 
and  Buriidcikon  Bi41«r»y,  210  miles 
Bouth-weste^^i^roiV  IheSt^  Illi- 
nois to  BvimffXfiu  Burlb^^ten  to  partly 
built  Qpon  the^^  lirhieh  characterize 
the  shores  of  tiie  ]IissiMl|»pi  in  this  the 
most  ixktt»rci|tte.n^  of  its  endless 
journey,  finn^itirCbnMkt  Lakes  to  the 
Oulf  of  Mexicdfi  la  t«54,  its  population 
was  about  7,00Or  Jit  thto  time  it  is 
very  much  moire,  as  it  to  growing  raidd- 
ly,  like  all  tikC  oitiea  of^  West. . 

The  famous  tndiati  cUeftato,  Black 
Hawk,  once  dwelt  at  Burlingtoli,  and 
here  hto  bones  He  buried. 

One  of  the^i^ent  kraMM  to  Nebraska, 
starts  from  Bqi|tni^oh  by  rdttway  a  few 
miles  to  Mount,  PtoiMnnjt:|  and  thence, 
by  stages,  to  OmiAtli  ptt>. 

D«vei90rt  p^nihe;]u8stos|qn^  at  aie< 
foot  of  the  Upliesr  Jtai4dB,  n^oeite  Rock 
Island,  lUindis^  (Mkdon  the  rmlways  from 
Chicago  to  Iowa  Oitt.  See  n>titeto  Iowa 
City.  The  Iowa  Cktlleige  was  tistablished 
here  some  10  years  ago.  The  landscape 
of  this  region  is  extremely  attrtctlve. 

Bieolnuc  is  at  the  foot  of  the  Lower 
Rapids  of  the  Mississippi,  206  miles 
aboTe  St.  Louis^  and  126  miles  below 
Iowa  Oity.  See  Burlington,  for  route 
from  Chicago  and  the  eastern  cites  to 
that  place.  Keokuk  to  not  fitr  below, 
following  the  river. 


Thto  to  the  head  ci  navigatioii  pt  ^ 
tormet  steamers,  and  the  outlet  forAe 
rich  valley  of  the  Des  Mdnei^  timimoet 
popolOtti^  portion  itf  the  State,  line 
steaawrs  nm:  daily  between  Kaektdi 
end Bt.  Loui^  and  a  raflwa^y  to  ihtprot 
gress  henecj  180  mUesi  to  Pohnqoe^ 
pastidg  Bariiiu;to4,  Daveniiortt  jtad 
LymiBi  on  tiie  Iowa  aids  of  the  Mtoai»- 
Sipdi  and  Ro6k  Idand^Fidtcm,  GatoiuH 
ana  other  points  upon  the  BUaoto 
banks.   '  ■ 

MmoaXtam  to  upon  the  Mississimii^ 
100  miles  above Keoknk,  and  SSnuMa 
from  Iowa  City.  See  OhiiMgo,  for  imttM 
to  that  ciiy  from  the  EMt»  and  take  the 
Chicago  and  Rock  Island  Railway,  189 
mibsa  to  RookIdiuid;  cross  the  Mi«ds> 
sipi^  to  Davenport  (o|qposite);  thence< 
down  the  r^rir»  wr,  mote  expieditiously, 
by  t|te  Misflissirai  asd  Missoml  BaUvay, 
Io%a  dty-iiiids  26  miles  to  Muscatine 
•ranoti(m,and  12  mile%  by  bnnch  road, 
to  Muscatine. 

Muscatine  to  at  the  apex  <if  a  bend  in 
the  Misdsaippi,  on  tiie  sumndt  of  a  bold 
range  of  rocky  bhiftb  leen  from  the 
water  40  miles  awa^l  It^ivas  first  settied 
by  the  whitesj  inl^;b^re that  period 
it  was  an  Indian  tra^g'iioat,  called 
Manatheka.  It  to  one  ot]  the  most  active 
and  populoos  dtieii  h^  the  State. 

Fort  Mittttion  to  &  growing  town 
upon  the  MisflMi^J,  22  i^m  above 
Keokuk,  and  the  imme  distance  be- 
low Buningtoii.  See  relates  to  these 
places. 

Fort  D«i  MdiiMp,  iselected  as  the 
cai^tal  of  Iow4  bi  1866,  to  at  the  junc^ 
tion  of  the  Des  Moines  and  Raccoon 
Rivers,  120  miles  West  of  Iowa  City. 
Steamboats  ascend  the  Des  Moines  to 
thto  point  from  the  Misdssippi.  The 
railway  from  Davenport  to  Coundl 
Blufto  (completed  now  to  Iowa  City)  to 
to  pass  through  Fort  Des  Momes. 
The  place,  as  a  United  States  military 
post,  was  evacuated  in  1846. 


WISCONSIN. 

WiBComiiM  came  into  the  Union  as  a  State  as  tote  as  1848,  thoagh  the 
country  was  tiltited,  as  was  all  the  wilderness,  of  which  it  was  so  reocntiy  a  ptft, 


■v\' 


86« 


'WISOONBIN. 


Oeiwnl  Bemark*— Lakes— BIy«n. 


by  Hub  French  missionariefl  two  centuries  ago.  Its  growth  has  been,  and  con* 
tuines  to  be,  unexampled  any  where,  excepting  in  ue  surrounding  new  States 
mnd  Territories.  , 

The  topographical  aspect  of  Wisconsin  is  yery  similar  to  that  of  othe^  portions 
of  the  north-west  section  of  the  Union,  presenting,  for  the  most  part,  grand 
8tr9tches  of  elevated  prairie  land,  sometimes  1,000  feet  higher  than  t'he  level 
of  the  sea.  Though  there  are  no  mountains  in  this  State,  there  are  the  charac> 
teristio  plateau  ri^es  of  the  latitude,  formed  by  depressions,  which  drain  the 
waters,  and  aflford  beds  for  the  rivers,  and  lakes.  The  descent  of  the  land 
towards  Lake  Superior  is  very  sudden,  and  the  streams  are  full  of  falls  and 
ra^ds. 

The  floods  of  Lake  Superior  and  Lake  Michigan  wash  the  northern  and 
eastern  boundaries  of  Wiscondn,  and  numberless  lesser  watert  are  scattered 
through  the  interior,  and  more  abundantly  over  the  north-western  counties.  '  The 
shores  of  these  lakes  are  often  most  jdcturesque  in  rich  forest  growth,  and  in 
rocky  precipice.    The  waters  are  clev  and  full  of  delicious  fish. 


Tlie  Wisconain  UniTersity  at  Madison. 


Lak»  WlnnelMigo,  the  largest  of  the 
interior  waters  of  Wisconsin,  lies  south- 
east of  the  middle  of  the  State.  Its 
length  is  about  28  miles,  with  a  width 
«of  10  miles.  The  Fox  or  Neenah  River 
unites  it  with  Green  Bay,  an  arm  of  Lake 
Michigan.  A  singular  wall  which  might, 
in  its  regular  formation,  easily  be  sup- 
posed the  work  of  art,  instead  of  nature, 
follows  the  eastern  shore  of  Winnebago 


for  16  miles.  This  wall  rises  through 
all  its  extent  about  6  feet  above  the 
surface  of  the  water,  and  sinks  in  places 
hundreds  of  feet  below.  Steamboats 
navigate  the  lake. 

The  MiMdsiippl  Riv«r  forms  much 
of  the  western  boundary  of  Wisconsin, 
separating  it  from  Iowa  and  Minnesota, 
with  whidi  State  and  territory  it  thus 
shares  the  charming  scenery  of  this 


WISCOKBHr. 


867 


Birem— Nstanl  OariositteB  and  Beauties. 


•  forms  much 

Jary  of  Wisconsin, 
Iwa  and  Minnesota, 
Id  territory  it  thiffl 
scenery  of  tWi 


portion  of  the  great  river — ^the  noble 
expansion  of  Lake  Pf  pin,  with  its  bold 
precipices,  and  headland  of  the  Maiden 
Bockt  and  the  La  Orange  Mountain; 
Mount  Trempleau  in  La  Crosse  County, 
with  its  perpendicular  cliffs  600  feet  in 
height,  and  many  other  striking  scenes. 
The  WiMOnun  Riwati  the  largest 
stream  in  the  State,  rises  in  a  small  Uke 
c^ed  Vieux  Desert,  on  the  northern 
boundary,  and  flows  south-westerly  600 
miles  to  the  Mississippi,  four  miles  below 
Prairie  du  Chien.  Shifting  sandbars 
obstruct  the  navigation  very  much,  yet 
steamboats  ascend  as  high  as  Portage 
City,  200  miles  distant,  by  the  windings 
of  the  river.  From  Portage  City  a  canal 
has  been,  or  is  being  constructed  to 
the  Neenah  or  Fox  River  (the  outlet  of 
Lake  Winnebago),  by  which  the  navi- 

Stion  is  continued  thA)ugh  the  State 
>m  the  Missiasippi  to  Lake  Michigan. 
The  Wisconsin  Kiver  presents  many 
beautiful  pictures  to  the  eye  of  the  tra- 
veller. At  the  remarkable  passage 
called  the  Grandfather  BullFaUs,  where 
the  waters  break  through  a  bold  gorge 
a  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  and  flanked 
on  either  hand  with  rugged  walls  160  feet 
in  height,  some  fine  chalybeate  springs 
add  to  the  attractions  of  this  charming 
spot,  and  promise  to  make  it  before 
long  a  favorite  summer  resort. 

Petanwttll  Peak.  On  the  Wisconmn, 
below  Grandfather  Bull  Falls,  some  60 
miles,  there  is  a  singular  oval  mass 
of  rock,  900  feet  in  length,  and  300 
wide,  with  an  elevation  above  the  sur- 
rounding country  of  200  feet.  This  is 
Petenwell  Peak.  The  summit  for  10 
feet  is  perpendicular,  and  the  rocks  in 
their  fantastic  groupings  assume  the 
most  wonderful  architectural  appear- 
ances, almost  persuading  the  voyager 
that  he  is  transported  back  to  feudal 
ages,  and  is  passing  through  a  bar- 
baric land  of  castled  and  battlemented 
heights. 

Fortification  Book  is  another  inter- 
esting scene,  a  few  miles  below  Peter- 
well  Peak.  The  cliffs,  here,  have  a  ver- 
tical elevation  of  100  feet. 

The  DallM  of  Wlsooiudn.  At 
the  part  of  the  river  thus  called,  the 


water  passes  for  half  a  dozen  miles  be< 
tween  hills  of  red  sandstone,  varying  Ui 
height  from  80  to  100  feet.  The  width  of 
the  river  at  this  point  is  about  100  feet 

The  8t  Zioida  Riwmr,  which  forms 
part  of  the  boundary  between  Minneso- 
ta and  Wisconsin,  is  remarkable  for  a 
series  of  bold  rapids,  cidled  the  Falls 
of  St.  Louis.  Of  thb  scene  we  have 
spoken  in  our  mention  of  the  landscape 
of  Minnesota. 

The  St.  Louis  lUver  is  the  original 
source  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

The  Badaxe,  Black,  Chippewa,  the 
Rock,  the  Des  Plaines,  the  Fox,  and 
other  rivers  of  Wisconsin,  are  much 
broken  by  cataracts  and  rapids. 

Moands  or  Barth-works  in  Wi»- 
oonsin.  The  antiquary  no  less  than 
the  lover  of  natural  beauty,  may  find 
here  striking  sources  of  pleasure,  in  o\y- 
jects  scarcely  less  strange  than  the  mys- 
tical relics  of  the  old  world.  Scattered 
every  where,  over  the  plains  of  Wiscon- 
sin, are  singular  structures  of  earth, 
formed — who  knows  where,  or  by  what 
people  ? — after  the  likeness  of  men  and 
animals.  At  Prdrieville,  there  is  one 
of  these  weird  works,  66  feet  in  length, 
which  is  in  the  similitude  of  a  turtle ; 
near  the  Blue  Moands  is  another,  re- 
presenting a  man  in  a  recumbent  at- 
titude, 120  feet  in  length ;  near  Cassville, 
yet  another  of  these  eccentric  labors 
has  been  found,  made  in  the  image  of 
the  extutct  Mastodon.  At  Aztalan,  in 
Jefferson  County,  there  is  an  old  forti- 
fication 660  yards  in  length,  and  276 
wide.  The  walls  are  from  4  to  6  feet 
high,  and  more  than  20  feet  thick. 

The  Bins  Moands  are  in  Dane  Coun- 
ty. The  most  elevated  rises  nearly 
1,200  feet  above  the  waters  of  the 
Wisconsin  River. 

The  Forest  Soenury,  and  the  ever- 
welcome  oak  openings — ^the  oasis  of  the 
prairie — ^will  be  among  the  gratifications 
of  the  nature-loving  tourist  in  Wiscon- 
sin. The  hunter  may  indulge  his  pas- 
sion for  the  chase  at  will,  whether  he 
aspire  to  the  wild  game  of  the  wilder- 
ness, or  to  the  gentler  sports  by  the 
brook-side. 

Railways  in  Wisconsin.    Several 


a56 


WIBOOSfSDS, 


■M- 


BaUw»7t— OittM  of  MUwtakee,  Madison  nd  Bitolne. 


hundred  mttes  of  ndlway  are  completed, 
ftnd  many  other  routes  are  in  progreas 
in  Wisconsin. 

The  Chicago  and  Milwaukee  extends 
along  the  western  shore  from  Luke 
Michigan,  86  miles  from  CMcago  to  Mil- 
waukee^ connecting  with  rarious  routes 
to  other  towns  in  me  State. 

The  La  Crosse  and  Milwaukee  will 
traverse  the  entire  breadth  of  the  State 
in  the  south,  from  Milwaukee  to  La 
Cross,  on  the  Mis^ii^ppi.  About  one- 
half  the  route  is  now  in  operation, 
being  95"  miles  west  of  Milwaukee  to 
Portage  City,  via  Horicon,  on  Lake 
Horioon. 

The  Milwaukee  and  Misdsdpjd  road 
will  cross  the  ontire  southern  ]^ari«f  the 
State,  below  the  route  of  the  La  Crosse 
and  MUwaukee  road,  terminating  west- 
ward on  the  Misrisidppi,  at  Fndne  du 
Obien.  It  is  now  in  Operation  to  Madi- 
son and  beyond. 

Besides  these  main  fines,  other  lesser 
routes  4re  in  operation,  connecting 
Beloit  and  Madison,  Milwaukee  and 
Watertown,  and  places  on  Lake  Michi- 
gan,  and  in  Illinois  with  the  more  in- 
terior towns  and  villages  of  Wisconsin. 

BSUwaukee  from  New  York.  See 
Chicago  for  the  route  from  the  Atlantic 
cities  thither.  From  Chicago  take  the 
raihroad  86  miles  toMilwaukee,  along  the 
western  shore  of  Lake  Micldgan,  or  the 
steamers  on  the  lake  which  arrive  dailv. 

Milwaukee,  the  most  populous  city  m 
Wisconsin,  is  built  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Wiscondn  Uver,  on  the  western  shore 
of  Lake  Michigan,  90  mUes  from  Chi- 
cago, and  70  miles  east  of  Madison. 
The  town  lies  upon  the  river  flats,  and 
upon,  the  bluffs  which  overlook  the 
lake. '  The  peculiar  color  of  the  "  Mil- 
waukee brick,"  of  which  many  of  the 
buildings  are  made,  ^ves  the  dty  a  very 
peculiar  and  pretty  air.  These  famous 
briclts,  which  are  much  in  fiiubion  now 
all  over  the  country,  hava  a  delicate 
cream  or  straw  tint.  In  growth,  this 
city  of  promise  has  kept  pace  with  the 
rapid  progress  characteristic  of  the  re- 
gion. It  was  settled  in  1886,  incorpo- 
rated in  1846,  had  &  population  in  1840, 
of  1,'7«1 ;  in  1860,  of  20,061 ;  and  in 


1864,  more  than  80,000.  It  has  ia. 
creased  greatly  since,  and,  as  the  outlet 
of  a  large  and  rich  country,  i^ill  lone 
continue  to  extend  its  borders.  Se^venu 
htmdred  miles  of  plank  road  radiate 
from  the  city  towards  the- interior,  and 
many  lines  of  railway  are  in  course 
bf  construction  hence.  There  are  80 
or  40  churches  here,  and  numerous  lit* 
erary  institutions  and  schools. 

Bb4laoii,.the  capital  of  Wisconnn, 
is  80  miles  west  of  Milwaukee,  an^  154 
north-wesi^of  Chicago  from  each  place 
by  nulway.  See  Gmoago  for  routes  to 
that  city  i^rom  the  Atlantic. 

The  town,  in  the  Centre  of  a  broad 
valley  enclosed  by  lugfa  grounds,  occu- 
pies an  isthmus  between  the  Third  and 
Fourth  (Mendota)  Lake.  Mendota  or 
Fourth  Lake  upoik  the  upper  side  of 
the  cit]^  is  about  6  miles  by  4  miles  in 
area.  Tlie  Third  Lake  b  somewhat 
smaller;  both  are'  exceedingly  pic- 
turesque waters,  deep  enough  for  steam- 
boat navigation. 

There  was  no  building  except  a  soli- 
tary log  cabin,  upon  the  site  of  Madi- 
son, when  it  was  selected  in  1836  for 
the  Capital  of  the  State ;  vet  m  1855 
the  population  had  reached  nearly 
7,000.  The  streets  of  this  beautiful 
city  of  the  wilderness,  drop  down-pleas- 
antly towards  the  shores  of  the  sur- 
rounding lakes.  "  Madison,"  says  a 
writer  of  the  landscape  here,  *'  perhaps 
combines  and  overlooks  more  charming 
and  diversified  scenery  than  any  other 
town  in  the  West,  or  than  any  other 
State  Capital  in  the  Union.  Its  high 
lakes,  fresh  groves,  rippling  rivulets, 
shady  dales,  and  flowery  meadow  lawns, 
are  commingled  in  greater  profusion,  and 
disposed  in  more  picturesque  order  than 
we  have  ever  elsewhere  beheld." 

The  Capitol,  built  at  a  cost  of  $50,000, 
is  a  Umestone  edifice,  in  a  public  parii 
70  feet  above  the  level  of  the  lalces. 
The  University  of  Wisconsin,  founded 
in  1849,  occupies  an  eminence  a  mile 
west  of  the  Capitol,  and  126  feet  above 
the  lakes.  The  State  Historical  Society 
and  the  State  Lunatic  Asylum  are  lo- 
cated here. 

Baoine^  one  of  the  principal  cities  of 


wuoonaN, 


I 
859 


OltlM  Ud  TOWM. 


Lake  Hendote,  Madison,  Wlsconrin. 


^HHscondn,  is  upon  the  shore  of  Lake 
Michigan,  at  the  month  of  Root  Kver, 
10  miles  north  of  Ohicago  and  26  miles 
below  Milwaukee,  on  the  line  of  rulway 
between  those  points.  It  may  be  reached 
by  steamboat  on  the  lake  either  from 
diicago  or  from  Milwaukee. 

Hisnoslui  is  upon  Lake  Michigan,  just 
below  Racine,  06  miles  above  Chicago 
(by  railroad  or  by  water),  and  86  miles 
b(uow  Milwaukee. 

JanMwiUa^  a  populous  and  important 
dty,  is  upon  the  Rocky  River,  46  miles 
below  Madison,  and  66  miles,  by  plank 
road,  from  Racine.  A  branch  of  the 
nulway  between  Milwaukee  and  Madi- 
MD,  extends  to  Janesville ;  Junction,  at 
HOton. 

WanksdiB,  once  Pndrieville,  is  upon 
the  Milwaukee  and  Mississipi^  ndlway, 
20  miles  from  Milwaukee  and  78  from 
Madison.  It  is  upon  Ilshtuka  or  Fox 
River,  at  the  extremity  of  a  pine  prairie. 
Carroll  Colleee,  founded  1846,  is  here. 

FlatUwUu^  the  centre  of  an  e^ten- 
rive  lead  rerion.  is  about  22  miles  north 
of  Galena,  uhi(^  and  78  from  Madison. 
Bee  rouU  to  QaUna. 


Fond  dn  Xiao  is  a  prosperous  tuid 
populous  town,  at  the  south  endof  Win- 
nebago Lake,  72  miles  from  Milwaukee 
and  90  miles  from  Madison,  reached  by 
railway  from  Milwaukee  or  from  Chi- 
cago. Fond  du  Lac  is  remarkable, 
among  other  things,  for  its  Artesiui 
Wells,  which  are  so  numerous  that 
nearly  every  household  has  its  own. 
They  vary  in  depth  froid  90  to  180 
feet. 

Beloit  is  upon  the  southern  boundary 
of  the  State,  on  the  line  of  nUlway  from 
Chicago  to  Madison  and  to  Dubuque, 
98  miles  from  Chicago  and  60  miles  from 
Madison.  From  Milwaukee,  by  railway, 
78  miles.  Beloit  is  built  on  a  beautirai 
plain,  on  the  banks  of  Rook  IUver»  It 
is  famous  for  elegant  churches  and  fine 
streets.  The  Beloit  College  is  located 
here. 

Watartown  is  upon  the  Milwaukee 
and  Watertown  nJlway,  46  miles  from 
Milwaukee. 

Oraen  Bay  is  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Neenah  or  Fox  lU'^er,  at  the  head  of 
Green  Bay.  A  railway  from  Milwaukee 
via  Fond  dn  Lac,  is  in  process  of  build 


860 


lONXraBOTA  TBBRITOBT. 


P'i 


Area— fliirfw   8otl--ro«wte— Blvew. 


ml 


Distance  from  Milwaukee,  114 
;  from  Madison,  ISO  miles.    The 


largest  steamers, of  Lake  Michimn  stop 
here.  The  older  part  of  Green  Bay  was 
formerlv  called  Navarino.  Fort  Howard 
and  Viilage  is  upon  the  opporite  side 
of  the  river. 
Portefe  Oljhr  is  at  the  head  of  nari- 

gation  on  the  Wisconsin  River.    Steam- 
oats  ply  regularly  between  this  place 
and  Guena,  filinois.  It  is  upon  the  route 


of  the  La  Crosse  Railway,  95  miles  from 
Milwaukee.  The  site  of  Portage  City  ia 
at  the  famous  JVlnnebago  Portage,  and 
at  Old  Fort  Winnebago.  Mo&ison  is  40 
miles  distant. 

8lMboyg«n  is  at  the  entrance  of 
Sheboygan  lUver  into  Lake  Michigan, 
62  miles  above  Milwaukee. 

Manitanwas  is  upon  Lake  Michigan, 
above 'Sheboygan,  08  miles  from  Mil- 
waukee. 


MINNESOTA  TERRITOBY. 

RoMAMTio  stories  of  the  wonders  of  the  land,  which  now  forms  the  territory 
of  Minnesota,  were  told  two  centuries  ago  by  this  sealous  French  missionaries,  who 
had  even  at  that  remote  period,  pushed  their  adventures  thither ;  still,  only  a  very 
few  years  have  elapsed,  since  emigration  has  earnestly  set  that  way,  calling  up 
populous  towns  and  cultivated  fkrms  along  the  rivers  and  valleys,  before  coca- 
ided  by  the  canoe  and  the  wigwam  of  the  savage  alone. 

The  magical  development  of  Minnesota  is  in  keeping  with  that  marvellous 
spirit  of  progress  so  characteristic  of  the  great  Western  sections  of  the  United 
States.  So  rapid  is  this  growth,  and  on  such  a  sure  and  euUghtened  basis,  that 
the  church  and  the  sohoM-house  spring  up  in  the  wilderness  befqre  there  are 
inhabitants  to  occupy  them.  In  Minnesota,  one  of  the  earliest  foundations  was 
that  of  a  Historical  Society,  established  ahnost  before  the  history  of  the  country 
^ad  begun! 


^y. 


Azetu  Minnesota  occupies  an  area 
almost  four  times  as  great  as  that  of  the 
State  of  Ohio,  extending  from  the  Mis- 
dsidppi  and. the  St.  Croix  rivers,  and 
from  Lake  Superior  on  the  east,  to  the 
Missouri  and  the  White-Earth  rivers  on 
the  west,  a  distance  of  more  than  400 
miles ;  and  from  the  Iowa  line  on  the 
south,  to  the  British  borders  on  the 
north — also  400  miles  apart. 

BatbuoB  and  SoiL — "Almost  the 
whole  of  this  vast  region,"  says  Mr. 
Bond  in  his  interesting  volume  about 
Minnesota  and  its  resources,  "  is  a  fine 
AX>lling  pnurie  of  rich  soil,  a  sandy  loam 
rdapted  to  the  short  summers  of  the 
climate,  and  which  produces  bounteous- 
ly. The  surface  of  the  country,  except- 
ing the  Missouri  pluns,  is  interroersed 
with  numerous  beautiful  lakes  of  fresh 
^ater^all  abounding  in  the  finest  fish, 
and  their  banks  covered  with  a  rich 
growth  of  woodland.    The  land  is  about 


equally  divided  between  oak-openings 
and  prairies,  the  whole  well  watered  by 
numerous  streams  navigable  for  steant- 
ers." 

Foraat  Land*  and  Riwen.— In  the 
eastern  part,  on  the  head-waters  of  the 
Mississippi,  Rum  River,  and  the  St. 
Croix,  are  extensive  pine  and  hard- 
wood forests,  apparenUy  inexhaustible 
for  centuries ;  while  from  the  mouth  of 
Crouhwinff  Eiver,  a  tributary  of  the 
Mississippi,  an  extensive  forest  of  hard- 
wood timber,  fifty  miles  in  width,  ex- 
tends south-westerly  faito  the  country 
watered  by  the  Blue-EM*th  river,  a  trib- 
utary of  the  Minnesota  river,  emptying 
into  it  150  miles  above  its  mouth.  The 
latter  stream,  rising  near  Lac  Traverse, 
flows  south-easterly  a  di-'<tance  of  460 
miles,  and  empties  into  the  MississipiH 
at  Fort  Snelling,  seven  miles  above  St. 
Paul,  and  the  same  distance  below  St. 
Anthony.    This   is-  one  of  the  finest 


laXNESOTA  TKBBITOBT. 


S61 


BlTan— LalUB,  eto. 


Streams  in  tl^e  valley  of  the  Mississippi, 
and  the  oountrr  through  wUoh  it  flows 
ia  not  excelled  for  salubrity  of  climate 
and  fertiljity  of  soil  by  any  part  of  the 
United  States.    In  a  good  stage  of  wa- 
ter, steamboats  can  ascend  it  umost  to 
its  source.    A  portage  of  a  mile  or  two 
then  connects  it  from  Big-Stone  lake 
with  Lac  Traverse ;  and  tiie  outlet  of 
the  latter,  the  Sioiu^  Wood  river  (all  of 
which  are  thirty  miles  in  length,)  with 
the  famous  Red  Rlvw  of  we  North. 
This  stream  is  navigable  at  all  seasons 
for  steamboats  from  the  Bois  de  Sioux 
to  Pembina,  on  the  British  Une — ^to  Sel- 
kirk settlements,   100  miles  beyond — 
and  even  to  Lake  Winnipeg.   The  whole 
trade  of  these   extensive  regions  will 
eventually  seek  this  channel  to  a  mar- 
ket, following  down  the  Minnesota  to 
the  Misnsdp^  at  St.  Paul,  and  thence 
to  the  States  below.    A  railroad  con- 
nection will  eventually  be  made  from 
the  mouth  of  the  Bois  de  Sioux  to  Fond 
dtt  Lac ;  also  from  the  same  pomt  to 
St.  Anthony  and  St.  Paul  via  Sauk  rap- 
ids and  the  Misdssippi.    Another  will 
connect  the  same  point  with  Lao  qui 
Parle,  on  account  of  the  portage  at  Big- 
Stone  lake ;  thence  down  to  the  mouth 
of  Blue   £arth ;  thence  south-easterly 
through  Iowa  to  some  point,  say  Prairie 
da  Guen  or  Dubuque,  on  the  Lower 
Uississippi. 

The  only  interruption  to  the  naviga- 
tion of  the  Lower  Minnesota  river  in 
dry  seasons,  is  what  are  called  the 
"Rapids,"  some  40  miles  above  its 
mouth.  This  is  a  ledge  of  sandstone 
rook,  extending  across  the  stream,  and 
wUl  soon  be  removed. 

The  MiaiiMi^ni  above  St.  Anthony 
is  navigable  an  almost  indefinite  dis- 
tance to  the  north;  and  the  steamer 
"  Governor  Bamsey  "  has  already  been 
runnmg  in  the  trade  above  the  falls  for 
four  years,  as  far  as  the  Sauk  rapids 
(80  miles),  which,  with  the  Little  Fdls 
(40  miles  beyond),  are  the  mun  obsta- 
cles in  a  navigation  of  over  400  miles 
from  St.  Anthony  to  the  falls  of  the 
Pokegama.  St.  Croix  lake  and  river 
are  navigable  to  the  &lls,  60  miles  above 
the  junction  of  the  lake  and  Mississippi ; 
16 


and  the  St.  Louis  river  is  naviMtbfo 
frtm  Lake  Superior  20  miles  to  Food 
du  Lao.  Numerous  other  streams  are 
navigable  for  light-draught  steamers 
and  flat-boats  from  60  to  100  milen, 
penetrating  into  the  interior  to  the 
pineries,  and  nving  easy  access  into  the 
country  in  all  directions.  These  ar6  the 
Blue-Earth,  Rum,  Elk,  Sauk,  Grow, 
Orow-wing,  Y^rmilion,  Cannon,  and 
others. 

On  the  noiith-eastem  border  of  the 
territory  is  Lake  Superior,  with  its  val- 
uable fisheries  and  its  shores  abounding 
in  inexhaustible  mines  of  copper,  coi^ 
iron,  etc.,  besides  affording  the  facility 
of  that  vast  inland  sea  for  immigration 
and  commerce. 

The  Oreat  Father  of  Waters,  too— 
the  mighty  Mississippi — after  rldng  in, 
Itasca  lake,  in  the  northern  portion  pf 
the  territory,  flows  by  a  devious  course 
for  some  800  miles  through  the  eastern 
part,  and  below  the  mouth  of  the  St. 
Croix  forms  the  dividing  line  between 
Minnesota  and  Wisconsin  for  some  200 
more  to  the  Iowa  line.  This  mighty 
river  gives  the  territory  the  whole  lower 
valley  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico  for  a  never- 
ceasing  market  for  its  agricultural  pro- 
duce, lumber,  and  manufactures. 

Various  elevated  ridges  traverse  the 
territory  of  Minnesota,  though  not  of  a 
mountain  character.  The  plateau  called 
the  Ooatean  dea  Pnlxies,  or  the 
Prairie  Heights,  is  one  of  these  singular 
terraces.  It  extends  200  miles,  with  a 
breadth  varying  from  20  to  40  miles. 
The  average  elevation  of  this  lofty  plain 
is  some  1,600  feet,  and  in  some  parts  it 
rises  nea,rly  2,000  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  In  the  north  it  is  about 
900  feet  above  the  neighboring  waters 
of  Big-Stone  lake.  There  is  another 
range  of  wooded  heights  reaching  100 
miles  or  more,  called  the  "  Coteau  du 
Grand  Bois."  Then  there  are  the 
''Hauteurs  de  Terre,"  which  extend 
some  800  miles.  These  last-mentioned 
ridges  form  the  dividing  line  of  the 
rivers,  which  flow  to  Hudson's  Bay  on 
one  side  and  to  the  Mississippi  and  Lake 
Superior  on  the  other. 

The  lakM  of  MLunMiota  are  nnm- 


'fp,  ■■''■■ 


i 

I 


•  '■ 


W% 


MmiflBOTA  TEBBrrOBT. 


The  Falls  of  St  Anthony. 


berless,  and  of  extreme  beauty.     Sometimes 
there  are  little  ponds  a  nule  in  circumference, 
and  i^ain,  great  ifaters  40  or  60  miles  in  ex- 
tent.   Their  shores  are  charmingly  wooded, 
and  frequently  present  fine  pictures  of  cliff 
and  headland.     The  waters  are   pure   and 
transparent,  and  are  filled  with  white  fish, 
trout,  pike,  pickerel,  sucker,  perch  and  other  finny 
inhabitants.    The  largest  of  these  lakes,  after  Lake 
Superior,  which  skirts  the  eastern  borders  of  the 
territory,  are  the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  100  miles  in 
circuit,  Bainy  Lake,  Minnie-Waken  or 
Devil  Lake,  Bed  Leach  and  Mille  Lac 
or  Spirit  Lake. 

Lake  Pepin,  a  beautiiul  expanrion  of 
tbe  Hisassippi,  is  in  this  region.  On 
the  east  buLk  is  the  &mous  Maiden's 
Bock,  400  feet  high,  and  near  the 
northern  end,  the  La  Grange  Mountain 
rises  in  a  bold  headland,  280  feet  above 
the  water. 

The  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  in  the 
Mississippi,  lie  within  the  territory  of 
Minnesoto,  8  miles  from  St.  Paul.  The 
river  at  tUs  pass  is  cUvided  by  an  island, 
as  at  Niaigara,  forming  the  falls,  the 
greater  of  which,  on  the  western  side, 
is  980  feet  across.  The  descent  of  the 
water  tn  fitlls  and  rapids  is  68  feet  in 
200  rods.  The  beauty  of  the  scene  is 
thus  not  so  much  in  the  magnitude  or 
height  of  the  cascade  as  in  the  acces- 
sories of  rock  and  forest  noup. 

<<  I  visited  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony," 
said  the  Bev.  Mr.  Barnes  in  a  sermon 
of  two  years  ago.    *'  I  know  not  how 


other  men  feel  when  standing  there, 
nor  how  men  will  feel  a  century  hence, 
when  standing  there — ^then,  not  in  tiie 
voesty  but  almost  in  tbe  centre  of  our 
great  nation.  But  when  I  stood  there, 
and  refiected  on  the  distance  between 
that  and  the  place  of  my  birth  and  mj 
home ;  on  the  prairies  over  which  I  had 
passed;  and  the  stream — ^the  'Father 
of  Bivers ' — ^up  which  I  had  sailed  some 
600  miles,  into  a  new  and  unsettled 
land — where  the  children  of  the  forest 
still  live  and  roam — ^I  had  views  of  the 
greatness  of  my  country,  such  as  IhsTe 
never  had  in  the  crowded  oa|HtaIs  and 
the  smiling  villages  of  the  East.  Far 
in  the  distance  did  they  then  seem  to 
be,  and  there  came  over  the  soul  the 
idea  of  greatness  and  vastness,  which  no 
figures,  no  description,  had  ever  con- 
veyed to  my  mind.  To  an  inexperienced 
traveller,  too,  how  strange  is  the  ap- 
pearance of  all  that  land !  Those  bound- 
less prairies  seem  as  if  they  had  been 
cleared  by  the  patient  hbor  of  another 


1 1 


MlimSBOTA  nSBXTOBT. 


8d8 


flMBM  «ad  Plaeei. 


sn  standing  there, 
)1  a  century  hence, 
— 4hen,  not  in  the 
the  centre  of  our 
rhen  I  stood  there, 
,  jUstanoe  between 
'  my  birth  and  my 
)S  over  which  I  had 
>ani— the  *  Father 
ilhadsuledsome 
Lew  and   unsettled 
Idren  of  the  forest 
,  had  views  of  the 
itry,  such  as  I  have 
twded  oaptals  and 
J  of  the  East.    Fw 
hey  then  seem  to 
over  the  soul  the 
JvastnesSjWhichno 

[on,  had  ever  con- 
^o  an  inexperienced 

strange  is  the  ap- 

ad  I    Those  bound- 

if  they  had  been 

it  labor  of  another 


race  of  men,  rtmvlng  all  th«  forests, 
and  roots,  and  stumps,  and  brambles, 
and  smoothing  them  down  as  if  with 
mighty  rollers,  and  sowing  them  with 
grass  and  flowers ;  a  race  which  then 
passed  away,  having  built  no  houses  of 
their  own,  and  made  no  fbnoes,  and  set 
out  no  trees,  and  established  no  land* 
marks,  to  by  the  foundation  of  any 
future  claim.  The  mounds  which  yov 
here  and  th«M)  aee,  look,  indeed,  as  if  a 
portion  of  them  had  died  and  had  been 
buried  there;  but  those  mounds  and 
those  boundleM  fields  had  been  forsaken 
together.  Y<m  ascend  the  Misdssipi^ 
aimd  scenery  nnstupassed  in  beauty 
probably  in  tlM  worn.  You  see  the 
waters  making  their  way  along  an  in- 
terval of  from  two  to  four  miles  in 
width,  between  bluffii  of  from  1  to  600 
feet  in  height  Now  the  river  makes 
its  way  along  the  eastern  range  4>f 
blufib,  and  now  the  western,  and  now<  in 
the  centre,  and  now  it  divides  itself 
into  numerous  channels,  forming  thou- 
sands of  beautiful  islandis^  covered  with 
long  grass  ready  for  the  scythe  of  the 
mower.  Those  blulb,  rounded  with 
taste  and  skill,  such  as  could  be  imi- 
tated by  no  art  of  man,  and  set  out  with 
trees  here  and  there,  gracefully  ar- 
ranged like  orchards,  seem  to  have  been 
sown  with  grain  to  the  summit,  and  are 
dothed  wit£  beautiful  green.  Tou  look 
out  instinctively  for  the  house  and  barn ; 
for  flocks  and  herds ;  for  men,  and  wo- 
men, and  children ;  but  they  are  not 
there.  A  race  that  is  gone  seems  to 
have  cultivated  thpse  fldds,  and  then 
to  have  silently  disappeared — leaving 
them  for  the  fint  man  that  should  come 
from  the  older  parts  of  our  own  coun- 
try, or  from  foreign  lands,  to  take  pos- 
sesuon  of  them.  It  is  only  by  a  process 
of  reflection  that  yon  are  convinced 
that  it  is  not  so.  But  it  is  not  the  work 
of  man.  It  is  God  who  has  done  it, 
when  there  was  no  man  there  save  the 
wandering  savage,  alike  ignorant  and 
unconcerned  as  to  the  deugn  of  the 
great  processes  in  the  land  where  he 
roamed— Qod  who  did  all  this,  that  he 
might  prepare  it  for  the  abode  of  a  civ- 
ilized and  Christian  people,** 


JFaoatalnOa^vw  is  a  remarkableispqt 
two  or  three  miles  above  St.  Paul  A 
passage  way,  25  feet  hi|^  and  nearly  aa 
wide,  leads  into  a  oarera  of  white  sand- 
stone, whioh  has  been  penetrated  for 
1000  fiset;  first  bv  a  gallery  160  feet 
in  length  and  SO  feet  broad,  and  after- 
wards thrOngh  narrow  passes.;  A  riv- 
ulet follows  Va»  course  of  tUs  cave. 

Fort  Bnalting  is  6  miles  from  St. 
Paul,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Minneso- 
ta or  St.  Peter's  and  Mfandssipid  rivers. 
Ml  the  west  side  of  the  Missisdpid.  The 
buildings  of  the  saniaon  are  npon  a 
high,  bluir,  probabnr  two  hundred  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  water  in  the 
rivers,  and  which  stretches  to  the  north 
and  west  in  a  gently  undulating  and 
very  fertile  prurie,interapersed  here  and 
there  with  groves  of  heavy  timber. 
The  steamboat  landing  of  Fort  Snelling 
is  directly  opposite  the  mouth  of  the 
Minnesota,  from  which  a  low  island  ex* 
tends  about  two  and  a  half  miles  down 
tile  Mississipi^. 

Blradota,  which  lies  about  half  a 
mile  below  the  mouth  of  the  Minnesota, 
has  been  for  numy  yearn  a  trading  post 
of  the  American  Fur  Company,  and  is 
stilla  dipot  of  goods  and  provisions  for 
the  supi»y  of  the  traders,  who,  at  this 
time,  have  penetrated  much  farther  into 
the  Indian  country.  But  it  has,  till 
lately,  been  included  in  the  military  re- 
serve of  Fort  Snelling.  It  has  not  at- 
tained that  degree  of  prosperity  so  re- 
markable in  the  villaffes  of  St.  Paul  and 
St.  Anthony,  and  which  its  far  naore  fa- 
vorable position  might  justly  have  se- 
cured for  it. 

Pilot  Biu>b.  "From  this  summit, 
whioh  lies  back  of  Mendota,"  says  Mr. 
Bond,  whom  we  just  quoted,  "  a  view 
may  be  obtained  of  the  surrounding 
country  as  far  as  the  eye  can  graw,  af- 
fording to  the  spectator  a  sight  of  one 
of  the  most  charming  natur^  pictures 
to  be  found  in  this  territory,  so  justly 
celebrated  for  scenic  beauty.  The  view 
describes  a  circle  of  eight  or  nine  miles, 
a  grand  spectacle  of  rolling  prairie,  ex- 
tended plain  and  ^oves,  the  valley  of 
the  Minnesota  with  its  meandering 
stream,  a  bird's-eye  view  of  Fort  Snel- 


S.V 


804 


KXmnBOTA  1BBBIT0BT. 


Blran  and  Bi^idt-^tf  of  Bt  PauL 


\ 


Ung,  Ijakt  Harriet  in  the  distance— the 
town  of  St.  Anthony  j'jst  Tiaible  through 
the  nooks  of  the-^interrening  groTee, — 
and  St.  Paul,  looking  like  a  city  set 
upon  a  hiU,  its  buildings  and  spires  dis< 
tinotlj  Tisible,  and  presenting  in  ap- 
pearance the  distant  Tiew  of  a  city  con- 
taining a  population  of  one  hundred 
thousand  human  beinn. 

Th*  St.  Oiroix  FaUa,  or  rai^ds,  are 
In  the  St.  Oroiz  river,  about  80  miles 
from  its  entrance  into  the  Misdsrippi 
below  St.  Paul.  The  Bt.  Oroix  con- 
tinues the  boundary  line  between  Wis- 
consin and  Minnesota,  in  the  upperhalf 
of  the  territonr,  formed  below  by  the 
waters  of  the  MississippL  The  Falls  hi 
the  St.  Oroix  have  a  descent  of  50  feet 
in  800  yards.  The  perpendicular  walls 
of  trap  rock  between  which  the  waters 
make  their  boistertuis  way,  is  a  scene  of 
remarkable  jdcturesque  interest.  This 
wild  pass  is  about  haif-a-mile  below  the 
rairfds.  It  is  called  the  Dalles  of  the 
St.  Oroix. 

Th0  ttonx  Rapida,  in  the  Sioux 
river,  is  another  striking  point  in  the 
varied  landscape  of  this  region.  The 
pass  is  through  a  grand  quartz  forma- 
tion. The  descent  of  the  waters  is  100 
feet  in  400  yards.  There  are  three  per- 
pendicular falls  of  from  10  to  20  feet. 

TIm  Falls  of  the  St.  Lonla  Riwr 
are  a  series  of  rapids  extending  16 
miles,  the  waters  making,  in  that  dis- 
tance, a  descent  of  820  feet.  These 
cataracts  terminate  about  20  miles  from 
the  mouth,  of  the  river. 

In  our  enumeration  of  the  landscape 
features  and  attractions  of  Minnesota, 
we  have  included  only  a  few  of  the  lead- 
ing and  most  accessible  scenes.  There 
are,  beddes,  the  forest-hidden,  laughing 
waters  of  Minnehaha,  immortalized  in 
the  sweet  song  of  Hiawatha,  and.  a 
thousand  cascades  of  beauty;  genUe 
lakes  and  fertile  flower-strewn  prairies. 

The  Sportraian  here  will  find  plenty 
to  do,  whether  it  be  with  his  gun  in  the 
woods,  or  with  his  line  by  the  marge  of 
the  graceful  waters.  Immense  herds 
of  biShlo,  deer,  elk,  antelope,  and  other 
noble  denizens  of  the  forest,  still  roam 
over   the    western    plains,    and   the 


moose  and  the  grisily  bear,  the  otter 
and  the  wolf,  may  all  yet  be  found  in 
Mhmesota.  Upon  the  praiiie  Unds 
there  are  grouse,  pheasants  and  par- 
tridges, and  wild  geese  and  ducks  live 
near  the  rivers  and  lakes. 

St.  Paid.  Galena  and  OUcago  Rail- 
way  from  Ohicago  to  the  Hiarisrippi, 
and  thence  by  steamer ;  or  the  Ohicago, 
St.  Paul's  and  Fond  du  lao  Bailway 
froni  Ohicago  to  Prahie  dn  CSiien,  on 
the  Misdssu>id ;  thence  by  steamer  hi 
summer,  and  stages  in  winter.  The  La 
Orosse  Railway  from  Milwaukee  will  soon 
be  completed  to  th^  Misdssippi  st  La 
Crosse,  yet  higher  up.  This  flourishbg 
dty  of  the  far-west,  theoi|4tal  of  Mb- 
nesota,  is  graphically  ^escribed  ss 
perched  on  a  Ugh  bluff  overiooking 
the  Mississipi^  at  the  head  of  its  navi- 
gable waters,  2070  iniles  from  its  mouth. 
"It  is  surrounded  in  the  rear  by  a 
semi-chrcular  plateau,  elevated  about 
40  feet  above  the  town,  of  easy  grade, 
and  commanding  a  magnificent  view  of 
the  river  above  and  below.  Nature 
never  planned'  a  spot  better  adapted  to 
build  up  a  showy  and  delightfiil  display 
of  architecture  and  gardening  than  that 
natural  terrace  of  hills.  The  town  has 
sprang  up  like  Minerva,  iVill  armed  from 
the  head  of  Jupiter,  and  now  contains 
10,000  hihabitants;  its  whole  history 
of  seven  years  forming  an  instance  of 
western  enterprise  and  determined  eui- 
ergy  and  resolution,  hitherto  un8U^ 
passed  in  the  story  of  any  frontier  set- 
tiement.  The  main  street  is  fully  a 
mile  in  length,  with*builcKngs  running 
from  shanties  to  five-story  bricks.  Itt 
ten  churches,  with  their*  lofty  spires, 
show  that  the  aspirations  of  the  people 
of  St.  Paul  are  upward,  and,  though  in 
the  far-off  west,  tiiey  make  the  welkin 
ring.  A  travelling  friend  observed 
that  he  had,  in  Constantinople,  where 
they  have  five  Sabbaths  a  week,  heard 
the  Turkish  Salims,  the  Catholic  and 
Protestant,  the  Greek,  Armenian,  and 
Jew,  each  sending  forth  their  summona 
for  prayer  to  the  faithfiil,  but,  mesmt- 
ing  its  religion  by  its  beil'rin^ng,  St. 
Paul  far  exceeds  the  Oriental  capitaL 

The  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  Fort  Snel- 


*  I  i 


OAUFOBNIA. 

TowflAuidYIUagMb 


««6 


1,  elevated   about 


Bed  Wing  Tillagtt,  Upper  MiMiwIppL 


ling,  and  other  points  of  interest  to  the 
tonriat,  are  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  St.  Paul.  See  menUon  of  these 
places  in  preceding  pages  of  Minne- 
sota. 

StOhrator,  upon  the  west  bank  of 
Lalte  St.  Croix,  90  miles  from  St.  Paul, 
was  first  settled  in  1843,  and  is  rapidly 
becoming  a  populous  and  important 
place.  To  be  justly  informed  of  the 
number  of  people  in  these  cities  and 
villages  of  the  West,  would  require  a 
monthly  or  weeklv  census. 

St.  Anthony  la  a  thrivhig  town  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Miscnssippi,  at  the 
famous  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  8  miles 
above  St.  Paul  (see  St.  Paul  and  the 
Falls  of  St.  Anthony  in  preceding  pages.) 
The  village  is  situated  upon  a  lofty  ter- 


race overlooking  the  Falls.  Itspoirition 
at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Father 
of  Waters,  is  of  immense  commercial 
consideration,  and  ihe  Falls  afford  in- 
calculiAle  water-power  for  manufac- 
tures. This  is  the  seat  of  the  Univer- 
sity of  Minnesota. 

Wabuha  is  upon  the  IDstdsrippi, 
opposite  the  month  of  '<;ba  Chippewa 
river.    It  is  90  miles  below  St.  PauL 

Fonddn  Lao  (Minnesota)  is  upon 
the  St.  Louis  river,  22  miles  from  its 
entrance  into  Lake  Superior.  It  is 
reached  by  steambciats. 

Ztaaoa  is  upon  the  Mississippi,  20 
miles  above  St.  Paul. 

Daootah  is  the  proposed  name  of  a 
new  territory,  to  be  formed  of  a  part  ol 
Ifinnesota. 


CALIFOEKIA. 

Thx  Histobt  ov  OALiFOBinA  must  -be  of  great  interest  to  the  traveller, 
especially  as  he  surveys  the  astonishing  progress  which  has  been  made  within 
the  last  eight  years. 

The  peninsiua  of  Lower  California  was  discovered  by  the  expeditions  of  Cor- 
tex  hi  1684-6. 


909 


01 


nuioiy  ud  niyriatl  AfpMt 


ITpper  OaUfornl*  wm  m«ii  br  Otbrlllo  In  1542.  Sir  Franoia  Drake  rUtod  tht 
eoMt  and  diwoTered  Jaok's  Harbor,  on  the  bef  of  Sir  Fnuide  Drake,  a  ftw 
mllea  to  the  northward  of  the  bar  of  San  Franouoo,  In  1079.  \ 

In  1709  the  bay  of  San  Franoiaco  wai  dIacoTer«l  bj  the  early  Spankh  mia- 
■lonarlea,  who  e•tab)^hed  eome  18  mbeionf  in  the  oountrj ;  theee  eontinued  to 
flouriih  nntll  after  the  Mexican  Berohition  in  1822,  fUling  ihto  decay  under  the 
new  goTemment. 

Oa^  John  Sutler  eitabliihed  Umaelf  near  the  pment  irfte  of  Sacramento  dty 
in  1889. 

In  1846  thd  war  broke  but  between  the  United  Statei  and  Mexico,  irtdch  re* 
suited  in  the  oonqueit  and  purchaee  of  Oalifbmia  by  the  United  Statee.  v 

Gold  was  diworered  ib  January,  1848,  by  Jaa.  W.  Mamhall,  in  the^mj^y  of 
Capt.  Sutler,  at  Butler's  Mill,  on  the  South  Fork  of  the  American  il,^^*'*  ^  the 
present  town  of  Oohwna. 

From  this  date  the  un|Mreoedented  progress  of  the  country  eommeneed. 

The  State  of  OaUforaia  extends  amig  the/  Faciflo  coast  neaity  seTcn  hundred 
and  fifty  mUes,  from  southrcast  ttf  north-west,  with  an  aTcrage  bssadlh  from  east 
to  west  of  two  hundred  hnd  ttW  mDes,  containing  an  area  of  18t;M0  miles,  or 
neatly  twice  the  site  of  Great  Britain.  The  whole  country  naturaHy  frdls  faito 
three  great  divisions : 

First,  The  great  TsDeys  of  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin  rirers,  with  all 
their  ktend  ▼•U«I* ;  all  of  whose  waters  meet  in  the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  paaa- 
ing  through  the  Golden  Oaie  to  the  Padflc  Ocean. 

Second,  The  portions  of  the  ooaat  range  north  and  south  of  the  bay  of  San 
Francisco,  where  the  country  is  drained  by  streams  fklling  Erectly  into  the  Pacific, 
as  the  Klamath,  Eel  River,  Buasian  BiTcr,  the  SaUnas,  San  Pedro,  and  San  Be^ 
nardlno,  with  others  of  lessor  magidtude. 

Third,  The  country  east  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  Ohain,  the  waters  of  which 
ftll  into  the  great  basin,  having  no  outlet  to  the  ocean. 

The  ranges  of  mountdns  con;iprise  the  Sierra  Nevada,  which  divides  the  State 
on  the  east  from  the  Oreat  Baun,  and  the  Ooast  Banse  on  the  west. 

Between  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  the  Ooast  Bangs,  Ues  the  extensive  country 
of  the  First  Diviri<m,  a  valley  of  some  600  miles  in  length,  with  an  average 
breadth  of  75  mile^  with  a  rich  soil  and  warm  cUmate,  producing  all  the  froita 
of  the  warm  region  with  the  products  of  the  mora  temperate  climes.  The  lat* 
era!  Valleys,  wltn  an  elevation  of  from  1,000  to  6,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  produdnff  the  mora  hardy  fruits  and  grains  common  to  the  mora  northern 
States  of  the  Union. 

A.  belt  of  ffigantlo  timber,  consisting  of  jrfnes,  firs,  cedars,  oaks,  Ac,  &c.,  ex* 
tends  the  entire  length  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  range,  affording  a  supply  of  wocd 
that  can  never  be  exhausted. 

The  mining  ngion  also  Stratches  along  this  range,  extending  on  the  north 
into  the  Ooast  Mountains,  passing  into  Oregon  with  an  average  breadth  of  40  or 
60  miles,  at  some  points  extending  6eom  the  valley  to  near  the  summit  of  the 
Kerra,  a  distance  of  100  miles  in  broadth. 

Of  the  Second  Division,  located  near  the  coast  This  portion  of  Califomlt 
contains  thousands  of  beautiftal  valleys,  some  of  which  aro  very  extensive,  u 
that  of  the  Salinas,  whose  outitt  is  at  the  bay  of  Monterey  and  the  country  ad- 

ioihing  Los  AoffClos  and  San  Diego.    This  pwtion  has  a  cooler  climate  than  the 
ower  valleys  of  the  ilrst  Division,  owing  to  their  proximity  to  the  sea. 

Every  variety  of  product,  from  the  orange  and  other  fruita  of  the  warm  region 
at  Los  Angeles,  to  the  more: temperate  clime  and  products  of  Humboldt  bay  and 
Trinity  river  at  the  north.  Gold  is  also  found,  and  the  richest  quioludkermiBes 
in  the  world.    Oaks  and  the  gigantic  red  woods  afford  fine  lumber. 


!  i 


OAUrOBHIA. 

Fmii  N«w  Twk  to  Bw  FimmImo— itoptowaU. 


807 


toTWtodth* 
Drake,  a  fow 

Bpanlih  mil- 
I  oontinued  to 
oftj  under  the 

tenmento  dty 


the^mploy  of 
a  HtVOTi  •(  the 

DBtoeed; 
wTen  Irandred 
Mdthfrom«Mt 
4;M0'inUM,or 
unily  IkllB  into 

riren,  with  til 
h«&oiMO,iw» 

the  bay  of  Sen 
into  the  Pacific, 
0,  and  San  B«^ 

r»teraof  which 

iTidestheSUte 

eit 

tendTO  eoontry 
ith  an  aTorage 
ag  eU  the  fraits 
imes.  The  lat- 
theloTelofthe 
more  northen 

.,  Ac,  Ac.,  ex« 
apply  of  wood 

on  the  north 

^adthof40or 

:  Bummit  of  the 

Ln  of  GalifonU 
>y  extensive,  m 
ttihe  country  adv 
amate  than  the 

^e  Boa. 
hewarmrepon 

aboldt  bay  and 
dokidkermiBes 


Of  the  Third  DiTision,  the  eeontry  east  of  tti«  Merra  Veradty  but  littk  ia 
known,  eapeciallT  to  the  eoutlheaet,  yet  many  fine  vOliyi  occur,  at  dial  of  Gftr* 
■on'«  valtoy,  wueh  now  contains  quite  a  population.  G«M  alao  ia  found  along 
the  eaatem  itope  of  tiie  Sierra. 

Theae,  then,  are  the  general  features  of  the  oountnr.  Muoh  more  might  be 
■aid  oonoeming  the  raiiety  of  climate  incident  to  the  location,  the  diflleroot  net- 
uiml  productions,  the  mines  of  gold,  quioksilTer,  coal,  and  iron,  which  are  being 
dikUy  diaooTeved,  wHh  the  many  adTantages  of  soil  and  climate  adapted  to  gra» 
ing  and  agriouHural  purposes. 


TOTAUI  rtOM  «IW  TOU  TO  SAM 

nuiioiaoo. 

The  two  prindpal  routes  to  California, 
per  ateamer,  are  by  way  of  Oentral 
America  and  the  Isthmus  of  Panama. 

By  the  former  route  we  reach  San 
Juan  del  Norte,  on  the  AtUntio  side, 
and  proceed  up  the  San  Juan  Rirer,  by 
steamer;  tihenoe  acrosa  Uie  southern 

Etrt  of  the  Lake  of  Nicaragua  to  Virgin 
ay.  Stages,  or  riding  animals  convey 
travellers  across  the  narrow  isthmus  of 
12  mUes,  to  San  Juan  del  Snr,  on  the 
Pacific,  where  the  steamer  receives 
them  and  conveys  them  to  San  Fran< 
cUwo.  By  this  route,  some  700  miles 
of  sea  voyage  is  avoided,  which  is 
scarcely  compensated  by  the  exposure 
mcident  to  the  navieation  of  a  tropical 
river,  and  the  lengUi  of  time  occupied 
in  making  the  transit  flrom  sea  to  sea; 
yet,  to  the  observant  tourist,  many  ob- 
leots  of  interest  are  presented  upon  this 
route.  The  beauty  of  the  rich  tropical 
verdure  along  the  river,  with  the  gigan- 
tic cones  of  the  Central  American  Vol- 
canoes are  objects  well  worth  viewing. 
Perhaps  the  best  way,  and  certunly 
the  most  reliable,  is  by  the  semi-monthly 
steamer,  via  Aspinwall  and  Panama, 
by  railroad  across  the  Isthmus  of 
Darien.  ^ 

Leaving  New  York  on  the  6th  or 
20th  we  are  soon  upon  the  broad  At- 
lantic. Crossing  the  Gulf  Stream  in  about 
the  latitude  of  Cape  Hatteras,  we  some' 
times  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  low,  coral 
islands  of  the  Bahamas.  live  or  six 
days  bring  us  to  the  eastern  extremity 
of  Cuba,  whose  highlands,  with  those  of 
the  more  ^s'ant  mountains  of  San  Do- 
mingo look  Maptiful  in  the  warm  tropic 


base  as  we  pass  between  them.  Soon 
after,  the  Blue  Mountains  of  Jamaica 
loom  up  in  the  distanee  to  our  righ^— 
the  last  land  seen  until  we  arrive  at 
AspinwaU,  the  Athmtlo  terminus  of  the 
Istnmus  Railroad,  to  which  we  oome, 
after  a  voyage  of  eight  or  ten  daysfh>m 
New  Tork. 

Aqslnwall  is  rituated  upon  the  Isl* 
and  of  Manzanilla,  at  the  north-east 
entrance  to  Navy  Bay,  and  owes  its 
importance,  hi  fact,  its  existence,  to  the 
ndlroad.  As  it  lies  but  a  few  inches 
above  the  waters  of  the  sea,  it  is  a  per* 
feet  marsh,  and  is  very  unhealthy.  The 
population  consists  of  the  employ^  of 
the  railroad  and  steamers,  together 
with  a  motley  class  of  Jamaica  negroes. 
There  is  nothing  of  interest  in  the 
idaoe,  and  the  traveller  is  glad  to  take 
his  seat  in  the  oars  for  Panama,  leaving 
behind  him  a  place  with  a  population, 
upon  whose  faces  disease  appears  in  its 
most  pallid  form. 

For  several  miles  the  road  passes 
through  a  deep  marsh,  reaching  Oatun, 
on  the  Chagres  lUver.  Leaving  the  river 
a  mile  or  two  to  the  right,  we  traverse 
a  dense  tropical  forest,  with  occasional 
clearings,  and  passing  a  few  nsitire 
huts,  arrive  at  Barbacoas,  crossing  the 
Chagres  River,  upon  a  high  wooden 
bridge.  Beyond,  the  Cierro  Oigante, 
the  highest  point  upon  the  Isthmus,  is 
seen  on  our  right,  from  whose  summit 
Balboa  discovered  the  waters  of  the 
Pacific  Ocean.  Moving  on,  we  get  oc- 
casional views  of  the  river,  gleaming 
amid  the  rich  verdure  of  gigantic  treea 
and  overhanging  vines.  Paadng  the 
little  hamlet  of  Mataohin,  in  seven  miles 
we  reach  the  summit,  which  lis  260  feet 
above  the  tide  level  of  the  Pacific.   * 


868 


CALIFOBNIA. 


From  New  York  to  San  Francisco— Panams. 


' 


i^m  this  point  we  descend  rapidly, 
a  distance  of  11  miles,  shooting  through 
the  dense  foi'ests,  and  gliding  over  the 
level  savannas,  until,  at  last,  we  catch 
a  gleam  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  the 
spires  of  Panama. 

Previous  to  the  completion  of  the 
railroad,  the  steamers  touched  at 
Chagres,  at  which  place,  the  travel  up 
the  Chagres  River  was  performed  in 
native  boats  to  Gorgona  or  Crucas, 
thence,  by  animals,  to  Panama;  this 
generally  occupied  three  or  four  days, 
and  was  attended  with  much  exposure 
and  discomfort,  which  very  often  re- 
sulted in  an  attack  of  the  isthmus  fever, 
80  fatal  in  its  consequences. 

In  1860,  the  survey  of  the  railroad 
was  commenced,  under  the  superintend- 
ence of  the  well-known  traveller,  the 
late  John  L.  Stephens. 

In  July,  1852,  23(^  miles  of  the  road 
were  completed,  from  Aspinwall  to  Bar- 
bacoas,  on  the  Chagres  River,  and 
opened  for  travel.  From  that  date 
Chagres  sunk  inio  utter  neglect,  as  all 
the  travel  was  diverted  to  Aspinwall, 
passing  up  the  river  from  Barbacoas. 
December,  1864,  saw  the  road  completed 
to  Culebra,  on  the  summit.  Panama 
was  reached  from  the  latter  place  by 
animals. 

It  was  not  until  January  27 th,  1856, 
that  the  first  locomotive  passed  over 
the  entire  road,  from  ocean  to  ocean, 
a  distance  of  49  miles. 

Nearly  five  years  were  thus  consumed 
in  the  completion  of  this  extrordinary 
American  enterprise. 

The  cost  of  the  road  had  been  im- 
mense— some  six  millions  of  dollars,  at 
the  lowest  estimate ;  while  the  sacrifice 
of  life  has  been  enormous. 

The  Isthmus  afforded  scarcely  a  ma- 
terial for  its  construction.;  not  even  food 
for  the  laborers.  Every  thing  had  to  be 
imported  from  the  United  States  or  from 
Europe.  A  primeval  forest  was  cut 
through,  dense  jungles  were  opened, 
deadly  swamps  were  crossed,  deep  cuts 
were  made,  rivers  spanned  by  bridges, 
whose  timber  was  brought  from  afar ; 
and,  more  than  all,  the  pestilential  cli- 
mate swept  thousands  upon  thousands 


into  their  graves  ere  the  oceans  were 
united.   « 

But,  to  resume  our  travel<(— 

As  the  small  steamer  is  lying  at  the 
terminus  of  the  railroad  to  convey 
the  California  passengers  on  board 
the  Pacific  steamer,  which  is  waiting 
for  us  at  the  Island  of  Perico,  some 
two  miles  distant,  we  shall  not  have 
an  opportunity  of  visiting  the  City  of 
Panama. 

Tet  we  obtain  a  general  view  as  we 
pass  upon  .Dur  transit  to  the  steamer, 
its  old  towers  and  ramparts,  gleaming 
in  the  sun,  overgrown  with  rank  vege- 
tation, presenting  a  time-worn  and 
venerable  appearance,  finely  relieved 
by  the  back-ground  of  hills,  clothed  in 
the  richest  green. 

Tbe  Oity  of  Panama  contains  many 
obji^i^ts  of  interest;  but,  owing  to  the 
present  arrangements,  travellers,  m 
rotUe  for  California,  have  no  opportunity 
of  visiting  or  remaining  here,  unless 
they  should  lay  over  one  steamer — a 
delay  that  might  be  fatal  to  the  health, 
as  the  climate  is  usually  pernicious  to  a 
northern  constitution. 

The  Pacific  Voyage.  On  -arriving 
at  the  steamer  we  are  soon  under  way 
for  San  Francisco,  and,  steering  south, 
we  pass  the  beautiful  Islands  of  Toboga 
and  Toboquilla,  which  are  12  miles  from 
the  city.  Soon  after,  we  pass  the  lovely 
Islands  of  Otoque  and  Bana,  while, 
away  to  the  south-east,  a  glimpse  of  the 
Peairl  Island  groups  is  obtained. 

The  next  morning  or  evening  finds 
us  steaming  past  the  Island  of  Quibo, 
with  a  distant  view  of  the  Mountains 
of  the  Isthmus. 

We  find  the  arrangements  perfect  on 
board  the  Mail  Line,  and  our  days  pass 
pleasantly  as  we  steam  along  the  calm 
blue  waters  of  the  Pacific. 

On  the  seventh  day  from  Panama, 
we  get  a  grand  view  of  the  Mountains 
of  Mexico,  and  soon  enter  the  fine  ha^ 
bor  of  Acapulco.  Here  the  steamer 
takes  in  a  supply  of  coal,  which  afibrds 
the  stranger  time  to  go  on  shore  and 
take  a  look  at  this  interesting  place. 

The  Harbor  of  Acapuloo  is  one  of 
the  most  perfect  in  the  world,  protected 


«    • 


CAUFOmnA. 


S69 


9  the  oceans  were 

•  travelT- 
ler  is  lying  at  the 
lilroad  to  convey 
angers  on  board 
which  is  waiting 
1  of  Perico,  some 
re  shall  not  have 
isiting  the  City  of 

general  view  as  we 
it  to  the  steamer, 
amparts,  gleaming 
vn  with  rank  vege- 
a  time-worn  and 
ce,  finely  relieved 
of  hiUs,  clothed  in 

una  contains  many 
but,  owing  to  the 
its,  travellers,  m 
lave  no  opportunity 
lining  here,  unless 
er  one  steamer — a 
fatal  to  the  health, 
lally  pernicious  to  a 


City  of  Ssn  Frandseo. 


AOK.  On  -arriving 
re  soon  under  way 
nd,  steering  south, 
Islands  of  Toboga 
are  12  miles  from 
we  pass  the  lovely 
and  Bana,  while. 
It,  a  glimpse  of  the 
|s  obtained, 
or  evening  finds 
Island  of  Quibo, 
lof  the  Mountains 

rements  perfect  on 
lind  our  days  pass 
Im  along  the  calm 
cific. 

ay  from  Panama, 

[of  the  Mountains 

enter  the  fine  ha^ 

tere  the  steamer 

loal,  which  aflFords 

Igo  on  shore  and 

eresting  place. 

apuloo  is  one  of 

!  world,  protected 


Panama. 


on  all  sides  by  mountuns,  which  rise 
almost  from  the  water's  edge. 

We  gaze  with  delight  upon  the  fine 
groves  of  cocoas  and  palms,  and 
look  with  interest  upon  the  faded 
glories  of  this  once  important  place. 
The  motley  population  of  Mexicans  ob- 
served in  the  streets,  which  are  alive 
wlvh  venders  of  all  sorts  of  fruits  and 
curiosities,  is  a  study  of  itself,  seen  no- 
where save  in  a  Spanish  city. 

Resuming  our  voyage,  we  soon  lose 
sight  of  the  high  mountain  range  of 
Mexico,  the  last  land  seen  until,  on  the 
fourth  day,  we  approach  the  southern 
extremity  of  Lower  California,  Cape 
St.  Lucas. 

From  this  point  the  weather  suddenly 
becomes  cold ;  and  as  we  approach  the 
port  of  our  destination  thick  clothing 
comes  into  requisition.  As  we  coast 
northward  we  sometimes  see  land,  per- 
haps one  of  the  barren  islands  off  the 
coast  of  Lower  California ;  but,  as  the 
atmosphere  along  the  coast  is  generally 
very  hazy,  especially  during  the  summer 
time,  we  find  but  little  of  interest  until 
we  approach  the  Golden  Gate,  the 
entrance  to  the  noble  Bay  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. 

Upon  the  14th  day  from  Panama,  or 
22  or  24  days  firom  New  Tork,  we  see 

16* 


the  mountains  of  the  coast  range,  among 
which  Tamul  Pise  stands  pre-eminent, 
with  Monte  Diablo  in  the  distance, 
looming  up  from  the  waters ;  and  soon 
after  we  near  Point  Lobos,  with  Point 
Boneta  on  our  left,  entering  the  Golden 
Gate ;  Fort  Point  is  soon  abreast,  and 
we  come  into  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco. 
Two  miles  farther  on,  we  pass  the  Pre- 
sidio, and  catch  a  distant  view  of  the 
western  and  northern  portion  of  the 
metropolis  of  the  Pacific.  To  our  left, 
the  Alcatraz  Rock  rises  from  the  surface 
of  the  bay,  bristling  with  cannon,  and 
surmounted  by  a  light-hotse ;  while  be- 
yond. Angel  Island  rises  to  the  height 
of  900  feet. 

Doubling  Telegraph  Hill,  the  city 
bursts  upon  our  vision,  rising  pictu- 
resquely from  the  bay,  which  extends 
southward,  like  a  vast  inland  sea. 

We  are  soon  along  side  of  the  wharf, 
and  thus  ends  our  pleasant  voyage  of 
6,000  miles  from  New  York, 

San  Franoiioo,  the  principal  city 
and  seaport  of  the  Pacific  coast,  is  sitva- 
ted  upon  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  nenr 
its  entrance  to  the  sea,  and  lies  in  lat. 
3*7 "  48"  north,  long.  122°  30'  west,  frora 
Greenwich. 

The  Mission  was  founded  and  the 
Presidio  established  in  1776.    The  first 


870 


OAUFOBNIA. 


City  of  Ban  Francisoo. 


house  was  erected  by  Gapt.  Richardaon, 
in  1885,  but  up  to  January,  1847,  bore 
the  name  of  Yeria  Buena. 

At  the  time  gold  was  discovered,  in 
January,  1848,  it  contained  but  200 
buildings,  of  all  kinds^  and  a  population 
of  800  souls. 

At  this  period  (185*7)  the  city  covers 
an  area  of  8  or  9  square  miles,  with  a 
population  of  some  75,000. 

Among  the  principal  buildings,  are 
the  City  Hall,  fronting  upon  the  plaza 
OP  pubUc' square,  the  Merchants'  Ex- 
change, U.  S.  Gustom  House  and  Post 
Office,  the  U.  S.  Marine  Hospital,  Rmcon 
Point,  Montgomery  Block,  and  many 
other  fine  structures,  which  would  com- 
pare favorably  with  any  buildings  found 
in  New  York. 

Among  the  principal  Hotels,  we  may 
mention  the  Oriental,  comer  of  Battery 
and  Bush  streets ;  Rassette  House,  cor- 
ner of  Bush  and  Sansom ;  International 
Hotel,  Jackson  street;  Wilson's  Ex- 
change, Sansom  street ;  The  Union,  on 
the  Plaza.  These  are  the  first-class 
houses,  while  many  others,  of  less  note, 
ftfford  fine  accommodations  to  the 
stranger. 

The  places  of  amusement  are,  the 


Metropolitan  Theatre,  on  Montgomery 
street ;  the  American  Theatre,  on  San- 
som street ;  the  Minstrels,  on.  Washing- 
ton street ;  Mudcal  Hall,  and  tlie  German 
Turn  Yerdn  Hall,  on  Bush  street,  with 
several  other  minor  places  of  amuse- 
ment. 

A  visit  to  the  Misdon,  some  four  miles 
south-west  of  the  city,  would  interest 
the  stranger.  Two  or  three  lines  of 
omnibuses  are  running  over  the  fine 
plank  road  to  the  latter  place ;  the  race 
course,  and  many  fine  gardens,  are  in 
the  vicinity.  Al^o  the  Orphan  Asylum, 
a  fine  institution. 

A  half-hourly  line  of  omnibuses  also 
runs  to  the  Premdio,  which  is  situated 
some  three  miles  toward  the  Golden 
Gate ;  a  walk  or  ride  to  Fort  Point  and 
Point  Lobos,  passing  on  to  the  Seal 
Rock  House,  and  Ocean  House,  affords 
many  fine  scenes  of  the  entrance  to  the 
Bay  and  of  the  sea  shore. 

The  view  of  the  Bay  from  Telegraph 
Hill  is  also  very  fine,  embracing  the 
city,  with  the  distant  contra  coast  range. 
The  view  of  the  city  from  Rincon  Point 
is,  perhaps,  the  best,  certainly  the  most 
picturesque. 

Daily  lines  of  stages  leave  the  city 


The  Golden  Gate,  San  Franolnco,  California. 


CALIFOBNIA. 


871 


Yialt  to  th«  Interior  and  along  the  Coast 


gea  leare  the  city 


for  San  Jo86 :  one  line  by  the  western 
side  of  the  bay ;  the  other  is  taken  by 
crossing  orer  to  Oaliland,  12  miles  by 
steamer,  and  then  by  stage  along  the 
eastern  side  of  the  bay  to  San  Jo86. 
The  distance  by  either  Une  is  about  60 
miles;  time,  1  hours;  fare,  generally, 
|3.  These  lines  also  have  connections 
at  San  Jos6  for  Monterey,  126  miles 
from  San  Francisco,  and  the  New  Al- 
maden  QuicksilTer  Mines,  12  miles  south 
of  San  Jos6.  Besides  the  beauty  of  the 
valley  of  San  Jose,  and  its  climate  of 
perpetual  spring,  the  gardens  and  Arte- 
sian Wells,  many  places  in  the  vicinity 
are  worthy  of  a  visit,  especially  the 
Quicksilver  Mines  and  the  Missions  of 
Santa  Clara  and  San  Joso. 

Returning  to  San  Francisco  by  steamer 
or  stage,  we  make  our  arrangements 
for  a  trip  to  the  interior. 

Steamers  leave  daily  for  Sacramento 
City,  Stockton,  Marysville,  and  many 
other  points  upon  the  waters  of  the 
Bay — ^Petaluma,  Sonoma,  Napa,  &c.,  &c.; 
there  connecting  with  stages  which  take 
the  traveller  to  almost  any  point  in  the 
interior  with  certainty  and  ease. 

VISIT  TO  TUB    INTEBIOB    07   CALIFORNIA 
AND  ALONG  THE  COAST. 

From  San  Francisco  via  Sacramento 
City  to  Marysville,  up  through  the  valley 
of  the  Sacramento  to  the  Oregon  lUie ; 
thence  through  the  mining  regions  of 
the  tributaries  of  the  Sacramento  and 
San  Joaquin  rivers,  returning  by  the 
groat  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin  to  Stock- 
ton and  San  Francisco;  thence  along 
the  coast  southward,  visiting  Monterey, 
Santa  Barbara,  Los  Angelos,  to  San 
Diego,  the  most  southern  port  —  a 
glimpse  at  the  more  northern  sections 
along  the  coast,  and  a  voyage  to  Oregon. 

By  this  arrangement,  ul  that  is  of 
interest  can  be  seen,  making  an  almost 
continuous  tour  of  the  State,  without 
loss  of  time,  or  unnecessary  travel  or 
expense. 

Many  of  the  distances  given  are  but 
an  approximation  to  the  exact,  and  the 
time  and  fistres  vary,  as  in  other  coun- 
tries. 

1^  Saoramento  Region. — ^Leaving 


San  Francisco  by  the  4  o'clock  after- 
noon steamer  for  Sacramento  City,  we 
proceed  northward  toward  Angel  Island, 
in  the  bay,  which  we  pass  on  the  right 
some  8  miles  from  the  wharf,  soon  after 
Red  Rock  Island,  and  enter  the  Bay  of 
San  Pablo,  through  the  straits  of  the 
same  name. 

The  Ba^  of  San  PaUo  is  a  large 
and  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  some  16 
miles  wide  and  20  miles  long,  surroundertl 
by  picturesque  ranges  of  mountains. 
The  view  looking  westward  is  pictu- 
resquely fine ;  to  the  northward,  the  fer- 
tile valleys  of  Petaluma,  Sonoma  and 
Napa,  bounded  by  the  high  mountains 
of  the  Coast  Range,  bathed  in  the  warm 
summer  haze  so  peculiar  to  California. 
At  the  head  of  Napa  valley,  warm  sul- 
phur springs  occur,  which  are  even  now 
a  favorite  place  of  resort  and  offer  fine 
accommodations  to  the  visitor ;  beyond 
to  the  north,  the  hot  stream  springs, 
called  the  Gktsers,  are  found:  these 
are  among  the  greatest  curiosities  of 
the  country,  while  still  to  the  north,  the 
picturesque  region  of  Cleab  Laki 
amply  repays  the  tourist,  by  its  wild 
beauty  and  the  fine  hunting  and  fishing 
which  the  surrounding  region  and  waters 
afford. 

Resuming  our  voyage  through  San 
Pablo  Bay,  we  pass  Marc  Island  and 
Vallijo,  where  the  U.  S.  6oi«ernment 
have  established  a  Dry  Dock  and  Naval 
station,  and  soon  after  enter  the  Straits 
of  Carquiuez,  which  connect  thtf  !6ay 
of  San  Pablo  with  the  Bay  of  Suisun. 

The  Straits  of  Oarquinez.— These 
straits  are  about  five  miles  in  length 
and  three-fourths  of  a  mile  wide.  Be- 
NECiA,  the  former  capital  of  the  State, 
is  situated  upon  the  north  side,  near  the 
entrance  to  Suisun  Bay,  80  miles  from 
San  Francisco.  Vessels  of,  the  largest 
size  can  reach  this  point.  The  steamers 
of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  line  are 
refitted  at  this  place.  Their  extensive 
foundry  and  machine  shop  U  the  most 
important  building  in  the  place.  The 
headquarters  of  the  U.  S.  Army  are  also 
located  here. 

The  view  as  we  approach  Benecia 
is  grand.     Looking  south-east,  Mohsji 


372 


CALIFOBlflA. 


Saonunento  Biver  and  City— MaiysTiUe. 


« 


Monte  Diabolo,  California. 


DiABOLO,  the  most  remarkable  peak  of 
the  coast  range,  is  seen  rising  to  the 
height  of  3,'790  feet,  while  the  little 
Tillage  of  Martinez,  with  its  groves  of 
evergreen  oaks,  surrounded  by  hills,  is 
a  fine  feature  in  tlm  scene. 

^le  Bay  of  Suuuiif  We  now  enter 
the  Bay  of  Suisun,  another  arm  or  con- 
tinuation of  the  .great  Bay  of  San 
Francisco;  it  is  some  15  miles  in  length 
and  about  the  same  in  breadth,  and 
here  the  waters  of  the  Sacramento  and 
San  Joaquin  unite,  the  former  coming  in 
from  the  north  and  the  latter  from  the 
soiUl^ 

SaoramAttto  River.  Passing  through 
the  bay,  we  soon  enter  the  mouth  of 
the  Sacramento  River,  about  45  miles 
from  San  Francisco. 

Much  of  the  land  adjoining  this  bay 
and  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin 
river  is  marshy,  covered  with  tulus,  a' 
kind  of  bulrush.  Proceeding  toward 
Sacramento  City, we  pass  a  low  range  of 
hills  to  the  left.  Farther  on,  the  banks 
are  low  and  the  country  is  marshy.  Be- 
yond trees  occur,,  and  the  river  presents 
a  more  beautiful  appearance. 

In  seven  or  eight  hours  we  arrive  at 
Sacramento  City,  the  capital  of  the  State, 
which  is  126  miles  from  San  Francisco. 

Saoniimnto  Oity  is  situated  at  the 


confluence  bf  the  Sacramento  and 
American  Rivers,  and  contains  some 
26,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  centre  of 
travel  for  the  northern  mines  of  Call- 
fornia.  It  contains  many  fipe  buildings, 
put  up  in  the  most  substantial  manner, 
and  although  it  has  suffered  immensely, 
like  San  Francisco,  from  fires,  it  has 
steadily  improved,  and  is  now  the  most 
important  city  in  the  interior.  It  was 
here  that  Capt.  Sutter  established  him- 
self in  1839,  but  little  remtuus  to  mark 
the  site  of  the  fort  so  well  known  in 
the  annals  of  California.  The  stranger 
will  find  ample  accommodations  and 
good  fare  at  any  of  the  fine  hotels  which 
abound  in  Sacramento  City,  among 
which  are  the  "Orleans,"  "Jones's 
Hotel,"  and  others  of  less  note. 

Numerous  lines  of  stages  leave  the 
city  for  all  parts  of  the  interior  and 
mining  localities,  daily,  upon  the  arrival 
of  the  steamer,  reaching  the  same  day; 
Nevada,  Grass  Valley,  Marysville,  Colo- 
ma,  Auburn,  Iowa  Hill,  llokelumne 
Hill,  Sonora,  or  Stockton,  by  land. 

Steamers  also  leave  for  points  on  the 
Upper  Sacramento  and  Feather  River, 
such  as  Colusi,  Tehama  and  Red  Bluffs 
on  the  former,  dc  Marysville  and  other 
points  on  the  latter. 

MarysviUe.     Proceeding   on  our 


1   i 


OALEFOBNIA. 


873 


From  MarysTillo  to  Shasta  City. 


^.^« 


Sacramento   and 
ad  contains  some 
nd  is  the  centre  of 
m  mines  of  Cali- 
nany  fire  buildings, 
ttbstantial  manner, 
offered  immensely, 
Ifrom  fires,  it  has 
id  is  novf  the  most 
3  interior.    It  was 
[r  established  him- 
|e  remtuus  to  mark 
80  well  known  in 
Irua.    The  stranger 
lommodations  and 
le  fine  hotels  which 
jnto   City,  among 
Irleans,"    "Jones's 
less  note, 
stages  leave  the 
the  interior  and 
ly,  upon  the  arrival 
ling  the  same  day; 
',  MarysTiUe,  Colo- 
I  Hill,   "Mokelumne 
kton,byland. 
e  for  points  on  the 
Cid  Feather  Eiver, 
na  and  Red  Bluffs 
irysville  and  other 

loceeding    on  our 


journey  through  the  great  valley  of 
the  Sacramento,  we  reach  Marysville  by 
stage  or  steamer,  distant  by  land  40 
miles,  and  by  the  river  double  that  dist- 
ance, arriving  at  the  latter  place  by  noon. 

Marysville  is  next  in  importance  to 
Sacramento  City,  among  the  northern 
places  in  the  interior.  It  is  finely  lo- 
cated near  the  confluence  of  the  Feather 
and  Yuba  Rivers ;  accessible  at  all  times 
by  steamer  from  either  San  Francisco  or 
Sacramento  City.  It  commands  much 
of  the  trade  with  the  rich  mining  dis- 
tricts  situated  upon  the  '  Feather  and 
Tuba  Rivers  with  a  rich  agricultural 
region  in  the  immediate  vicinity. 

The  IMbuysville  Battea.  From 
here  a  fine  view  is  obtained  of  the  iso- 
lated chain  of  mountains  known  as  the 
Marysville  Buttes.  They  rise  from  the 
plain  of  the  Sacramento  valley  to  the 
height  of  1,200  feet,  and  extend  for 
some  eight  miles  in  length,  forming  a 
remarkable  feature  in  the  valley  of  the 
Sacramento. 

Daily  lines  of  stages  leave  Marysville 
for  Shasta  City,  Bidwell's  Bar,  Gibson- 
ville,  Downieville,  and  other  mining  lo- 
calities to  the  north  and  east. 

Among  the  hotels  at  Marysville  may 
be  named  the  Merchants'  Hotel,  United 
States  Hotel,  Western  House,  and 
others.  The  city  contains  some  very 
fine  structures,  principally  of  brick, 
which  would  compare  favorably  with 
many  of  our  buildings  in  the  Atlantic 
cities.    The  population  is  about  16,000. 

From  Marysville  to  Shasta  City. 

Journeying  north,  we  leave  Marys- 
ville by  stage  for  Shasta  city,  distant 
132  miles.  The  road  is  generally  good, 
and  almost  a  perfect  level  the  entire 
distance,  passing  through  the  centre  of 
the  valley  of  the  Sacramento,  crossing 
the  Sacramento  river  at  Tehama ;  the 
journey  is  made  in  two  days,  stopping 
over  one  night  on  the  road. 

As  the  traveller  journeys  northwards 
many  fine  farms  or  ranches  are  passed 
-—Bidwell's  at  Ghico,  Neals'  k  Lassens 
being  the  oldest  and  best  known — ^many 
fine  views  of  the  mountains  of  the  coast 
range,  some  of  whose  peaks  riyal  those 


of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  especially  Mt. 
St.  Helen,  Mt.  Lim,  and  Mt.  St.  John, 
which  are  each  some  7  or  9,000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

To  the  eastward  on  our  right,  the 
snow-capped  peaks  of  the  Sierra  Nevada 
rise  gleaming  in  the  sunshine,  bathed  in 
snow ;  beyond  Red  Bluffs,  we  obtain  a 
fine  view  of  the  Lawsen  Buttes,  one  of 
the  most  prominent  peaks  of  the  Sierra. 
Beyond  Cottonwood  Creek,  near  Maj. 
Reading's  Ranch,  we  get  a  splendid  view 
of  Mt.  Shasta,  the  highest  mountain  in 
California,  a  vast  cone  of  snow  rising  to 
the  height  of  16,000  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  the  magnificent  landmark 
at  the  head  of  the  Sacramento  valley. 

Shaata  Oity.  Soon  after  we  enter 
the  foothills  of  the  mountains,  and  reach 
Shasta  city,  a  village  of  some  eight  or 
ten  hundred  inhabitants. 

The  stage  fare  from  Marysville  is 
generally  |20  or  |26.  This  place  is  the 
centre  of  trade  for  the  more  northern 
mines  of  California — ^goods  reaching 
here  from  San  Francisco  by  the  river  to 
Colusi  on  the  Sacramento  80  miles  below; 
or  when  the  water  is  in  a  good  stage  from 
Red  Bluffs  40  miles  distant — ^the  head 
of  navigation — ^they  are  then  transport- 
ed in  wagons,  or  packed  on  animals. 

Treka.  Journeying  still  north  we 
reach  Yreka,  dbtant  11 6  miles,  by  stage 
or  animals,  passing  through  a  very 
mountainous  country,  which  has  been 
only  traversed  by  riding  animals  until 
lately.  We  alao  obtain  some  fine  views 
of  the  mountains,  especially  of  Mt. 
Shasta  on  the  right,  passing  over  the 
lofty  summit  of  Scott's  mountain,  reach- 
ing Yreka  in  two  days  from  Shasta  city. 
Yreka  is  an  important  point  in  this 
region,  is  a  thriving  village  of  several 
hundred  inhabitants,  and  is  the  centre 
of  a  rich  mining  region.  A  fine  view  of 
Mt.  Shasta,  distant  some  80  miles,  is  at- 
tained from  the  ridge  east  of  the  town. 

From  here  a  trip  to  Jacksonville, 
Oregon,  can  be  made  •  on  animals,  oc- 
cupying a  couple  of  days,  passing 
through  the  mining  sections,  the  upper 
Klamath  Rivor,  and  over  the  great 
Siskiyou  mountain. 

From  Jacksonville  the  Rougue  River 


874 


OAUPOBSriA. 


The  Biem  Nevada  Monntaina  and  Mines. 


countrT  can  be  reached  in  0  miles, 
Sailors*  Dig^ns,  00  miles,  Althouse, 
60  miles,  &  Crescent  City  on  the  Pacific 
coast  120  miles,  traversing  an  exceed* 
ing  rough  country,  which  has  been  dan- 
gerous to  pass  on  account  of  the  hos- 
tile tribes  of  Indians. 

We  have  now  reached  the  northern 
limit  of  our  journey,  and  from  hence* 
forth  our  course  will  be  a  return  to 
Harysville,  via  Yreka  and  Shasta  city. 

Perhaps  an  excursion  from  Treka 
west  to  the  coast  would  be  of  interest. 
Scott's  Bar,  a  rich  mining  locality,  lies 
some  20  miles  distant.  The  mouth  of 
Trinity  River,  128  miles,  mouth  of  Kla- 
math River,  170  miles,  and  Trinidad  on 
the  coast,  the  same  distance.  From 
Shasta  city  the  rich  mining  localities  of 
Weaverville,  distant  89  miles,  can  be 
visited  on  animals,  dr  the  mining  re- 
gions on  the  uppers  Clear  Creek.  All 
these  excursions  can  be  accomplished 
on  a  riding  animal.  A  mule'  is  prefer- 
able at  an  expense  of  about  $6  dollars 
per  day,  which  includes  every  thing. 
Good  meals  and  sleeping  accommoda- 
tion are  found  along  the  routes,  which  is 
truly  surprising,  considering  the  almost 
impracticable  nature  of  tiie  country 
traversed. 

Tb»  Sierra  Nevada  Mountaint  & 
BCnea.  Returning  to  Marysville  by 
stage  from  Treka  and  Shasta  city,  we 
will  now  make  an  excursion  among  the 
Sierra  Nevada .  mountains,  visiting  the 
most  celebrated  mining  regions  which 
lie  along  their  western  slope. 

Leaving  Harysville  by  stage  in  the 
morning  for  Bidwell's  on  Feather  River, 
we  pass  over  a  fine  level  road,  reaching 
the  latter  place  in  half  a  day,  distant 
82  miles.  Some  of  the  most  important 
river  mines  occur  in  this  vicinity,  and 
a  trip  on  horseback  down  the  river  to 
Hamilton  would  be  of  much  interest. 

A  stage  route  connects  at  Bidwell's 
for  the  American  valley,  via  the  ridge 
on  the  north  side  of  Feather  River, 
distant  from  Harysville  103  miles.  This 
with  the  Indian  valley,  beyond  some 
12  miles,  is  an  important  agricultural 
and  mining  section,  high  up  among  the 
peaks  of  the  ^erra. 


On  the  south  side  Forbestown  can  be 
reached,  and  following  up  the  (ttvidc  of 
the  Feather  and  North  Yuba  Rivers,  the 
important  mining  sections  of  Gibson- 
ville,  76  miles,  St.  Louis,  78  miles.  Rab- 
bit Creek,  70  miles.  Nelson  Creek,  75 
miles.  Onion  Valley,  81  miles,  &c.  &c., 
returning  by  stage  to  Harysville. 

Taking  the  Downieville  Road  from 
Harysville  we  soon  come  to  the  rich 
localities  of  Ousley's  Bar,  16  miles; 
Park's  Bar,  18  miles ;  Long's  Bar,  16 
miles  on  the  Yuba  River,  reaching 
Forest  City,  08  miles ;  Chipp's  Diggings, 
64  miles;  Minnesota,  60  miles;  and 
DownieviUe,  on  the  North  Yuba,  66 
miles.  By  this  route  we  visit  some  of 
the  most:  important  river  and  hill  dig- 
gins  in  the  State,  finding  good  accon>- 
modations  and  fare  at  all  points  upon 
the  road.  Downieville  is  an  important 
point,  and  is  quite  a  city — ^the  scenery 
in  the  vicinty  bold  and  impressive. 

Returning  to  Park's  Bar  by  the  same 
route  we  now  take  the  road  to  Nevada, 
we  reach  Rough  and  Ready  in  10  miles, 
and  Grass  Valley  0  miles  farther.  The 
latter  place  is  one  of  the  most  important 
mining  localities  in  the  country,  especid- 
ly  with  regard  to  quartz  mining  opera- 
tions ;  several  days  might  be  spent  in 
examining  the  numerous  mills  and  veins 
in  the  vicinity.  Grass  Valley  is  a  large 
town,  finely  located,  containing  several 
fine  hotels  and  beautiful  residences, 
connected  directly  with  Harysville  and 
Sacramento  by  daily  lines  of  stages.  The 
surrounding  country  abounds,  also,  in 
Placer  diggings,  and  is  heavily  timbered. 

Nevada,  the  most  important  mining 
city,  lies  four  miles  beyond  Grass  Valley. 
This  place  contains  a  population  of  some 
0,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  centre  of 
a  large,  rich  mining  region ;  like  Grass 
Valley  it  contains  numerous  fine  hotels, 
stores,  and  churches,  indicating  a  pros- 
perous state  of  things;  and  although  it 
has  suffered,  like  most  of  the  cities  of 
California,  from  fires,  yet  it  has  only 
improved  by  the  disaster. 

In  the  vicinity  occur  many  heavy 
mining  operations,  the  hill  diggings  and 
tunneu.  It  has  ever  been  the  first  in 
using  the  improved  methods  of  by* 


)    ! 


OALETOBNIA. 

The  Slem  N«vsd»  MonnUlns  and  Mln«s. 


876 


draulic  pressure,  sluices,  tunnels,  &c. 
Immense  outlays  in  water  canals,  for 
mining  purposes,  have  been  made  in 
i^evada  County. 

A  vint  beyond,  towards  the  head  of 
the  South  Yuba,  is  of  much  interest. 
Besides  the  wild  scenery,  the  stranger 
will  be  convinced  of  the  exhaustless 
gature  of  the  mining  interests  of  Cali- 
fornia, as  all  the  immense  ridges  divid- 
ing the  Yuba  River,  extendmg  for  20 
or  30  miles  in  length,  abound  in  the 
richest  mines  of  gold,  which  will  take 
centuries  of  labor  to  develope.  The 
country  also  affords  exhaustless  quan- 
tities of  the  finest  lumber,  consisting  of 
pine,  cedar,  fir,  &c. 

We  will  now  journey  southward, 
among  the  mountains,  visiting  some  of 
the  principal  mining  towns  and  cele- 
brated localities.  Leaving  Nevada,  or 
Grass  Valley,  by  stage,  we  wind  along 
through  the  mountains  and  forests, 
crossing  Bear  River,  arriving  at  Auburn 
in  25  miles. 

Auburn,  the  county  seat  of  Placer 
County,  is  a  fine  village,  accessible  at 
all  times  from  Marysville  and  Sacra- 
mento, by  daily  lines  of  stages ;  it  has 
a  population  of  about  1,000,  and  is  the 
centre  of  a  large  mining  region.  In 
the  vicinity  are  Gold  Hill,  OphirviUe, 
with  the  numerous  Bars  en  the  middle 
and  north  fork  of  .the  American  River. 

Stages  also  connect  witklllinoistown, 
Iowa  Hill,  Yankee  Jims,  Michigan 
Bluffs,  celebrated  mining  places,  beyond 
to  the  east,  distant  from  18  to  85  and 
40  miles. 

Also  by  stage  to  Salmon  Falls,  Oreen- 
woofl  Valley,  Georgetown,  in  El  Dorado 
County,  where  we  arrive  the  same  day 
we  l^ve  Auburn,  distant  22  miles. 

Leaving  Georgetown  by  the  cross 
stage  we  reach  Goloma,  on  the  South 
fork  of  the  American,  12  miles  from 
Z  .2  former  place. 

Ooloma  is  a  fine  village  of  some  800 
inhabitants,  the  county  seat  of  El  Dorado 
County,  and  is  distinguished  as  the 
place  where  gold  was  first  discovered. 
The  remains  of  the  old  saw-mill  of  Gap- 
tain  Sutter  are  just  below  the  present 
town,  and  will  be  looked  upon  with 


much  interest  by  the  stranger  as  a.  me- 
mento of  the  great  event  which  has 
revolutionized  ue  commerce  of  the 
world. 

From  Goloma  we  proceed  to  Placer* 
viUe,  distant  12  miles.  This  is  an  im- 
portant town,  one  of  the  largest  in  the 
mining  region,  containing  some  2,000 
inhabitants ;  the  centre  of  a  large  and 
rich  mining  section. 

Many  of  the  emigrants  to  Oalifomia, 
journeying  across  the  plains,  reach  the 
country  by  the  route  terminating  across 
the  Sierra  Nevada  at  this  point ;  though 
other  routes  across  the  moimtains  are 
now  used,  this  was  of  old  the  favorite 
one. 

The  emigrant,  leaving  the  frontier  of 
Missouri,  at  Westport  or  Independence, 
journeys  up  the  valley  of  the  Platte 
River,  passing  through  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  by  the  SouUi  Pass ;  thence, 
via  Salt  Lake  City,  the  Mormon  settle- 
ment ;  or,  via  Bear  River,  to  the  North 
of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  reaches  the 
head  of  Humbolt  River ;  thence,  down 
the  latter  to  the  sink  of  the  Humbolt, 
reaching  Carson's  Valley,  crossing  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  either  to  Plaoerville  or 
Han^  Town,  as  it  was  formerly  called ; 
or,  via  Walker's  River  to  Sonora;  or  the 
Mammoth  Tree  Route  to  Murpheys. 
Routes  also  cross  the  Sierra  to  the 
North,  coming  in  at  Downieville,  via 
the  Traokee  River ;  or,  still  to  the 
North,  by  way  of  Noble's  Pass,  said  to 
be  the  best  in  the  range.  A  more  re- 
cent survey  has  reported  most  favor- 
ably of  the  Mammoth  Tree  Route, 
reaching  Calaveras  County. 

The  distance  travelled  by  this  route, 
across  the  plains,  is  about  2,100  miles, 
and  occupies  wagon-teams  some  four 
months ;  mules  can  be  ridden  this  dis- 
tance in  60  days,  though  generally 
taking  much  more  time. 

Journeying  south  from  Placerville, 
we  pass  through  the  important  mining 
towns  of  Diamond  and  Mera  Springs — 
the  former,  three  miles  from  Placerville, 
and  the  latter,  five  miles;  these  are 
fine,  thriving  towns,  surrounded  by  a 
rich  mining  country. 

Returning  toward   the  plidns,  and 


876 


OAUFOBMIA. 


Mokelnmne  HIU— Mammoth  Tre«  Qrovo,  etc 


reaching',  Dayler's  Ranch,  we  take  the 
stage  for  Michigan  Bar,  Dry  Town,  ar- 
riving the  same  day ;  or  the  route  to 
Jaclcaon,  Volcano,  and  other  places  in 
Amador  County.  These  are  very  im- 
portant mining  sections ;  especially 
Volcano,  where  some  very  large  mining 
operations  are  found. 

Volcano  also  contains  many  substan- 
tial improvements,  and  boasts  of  a  per- 
manent population,  with  a  large  propor- 
tion of  families. 

From  Jackson  we  take  the  stage 
from  Sacramento,  and,  crossing  the  Mo- 
kelumne  River,  on  a  fine  bridge,  reach 
Mokelumne  Hill  in  seven  miles. 

Mokeluznne  EUll,  the  county  seat 
of  Calaveras  County,  is  a  large  town, 
containing  many  fine  stone  buildings, 
with  other  permanent  structures.  In 
the  immediate  vicinity,  some  of  the 
richest  hill-diggings  in  toe  State  have 
been  found.  A  canal  fbr  bringing  water 
for  mining  purposes,  a  distance  of  40 
miles,  has  been  in  use  for  several  years ; 
lumber  is  also  floated  down  from  the 
lumber  region  above. 

In  speaking  of  the  canals  of  the 
mining  region,  it  will  be  proper  to  state 
that  millions  of  dollar?  are  most  profit- 
ably employed  in  their  structure,  and 
they  are  found  traversing  almost  every 
ravine  and  flat ;  brought  from  far  up 
the  mountains  at  the  sources  of  the 
streams;  sometimes  constructed  of 
plank  the  entire  distance,  as  the  canal 
coming  into  Mokelumne  Hill.  These 
are  among  the  greatest  enterprises  in 
the  State,  involving  an  immense  outlay 
of  capital  and  labor.  In  the  county  of 
£1  Dorado  alone,  there  are  above  five 
hundred  and  ninety  miles  of  canal, 
besides  460  miles  of  lateral  branches, 
costing  $1,429,900. 

From  Mokelumne  Hill  we  proceed  by 
stage  to  San  Andreas,  8  miles,  and  thence 
vt'a  Angel's  Camp  to  Murpheys,  an  impor- 
tant town,  distant  from  Mokelumne  Hill 
86  miles,  arriving  at  the  latter  place  at 
dark. 

Murpheys  is  a  village  of  six  or  eight 
hundred  inhabitants,  containing  a  fine 
hotel,  built  of  stone.  A  daily  line  of 
stages  reach  Stockton  from  tUs  point. 


In  the  immediate  vicinitv  of  the  town 
rich  deep  diggings  and  hill  diggings  oc- 
cur, and  are  worked  on  an  extensive 
s<;ale,  with  *'  all  the  modern  improve- 
ments." 

The  Mammoth  Tree  Orove.— We 
are  now  within  16  miles  of  the  celebra- 
ted Mammoth  Tree  Grove. 

Leaving  Murpheys  in  the  morning,  we 
arrive  at  the  grove  in  three  hours,  by 
carriages  or  on  horseback,  the  road 
winding  through  a  fine  open  forest,  con- 
sisting of  immense  pines,  firs,  cedars, 
4ic.  At  the  grove  a  good  hotel  affords 
every  accommodation  to  the  visitor, 
and  several  days  might  be  pleasantly 
spent  at  this  point.  The  valley,  which 
contains  these  monster  trees,  is  at  the 
source  of  ^  one  of  the  branches  of  the 
Calaveras  *River,  86  miles  from  Stock- 
ton and  213  miles  from  San  Francisco. 
There  are  some  ninety  odd  trees  of  this 
species  now  standing.  The  one  cut 
down  in  1863,  for  the  purpose  of  carry- 
ing a  section  of  its  trunk  to  the  Atlantic 
States,  stands  near  the  house ;  the  stump 
measures  96  feet  in  circumference,  and 
the  tree  was  302  feet  high.  Many  now 
in  the  forest  are  over  800  feet  high,  and 
one,  whose  bark  has  been  taken  off  120 
feet,  is  827  feet  high  and  90  feet  in  cir- 
cumference at  the  base. 

Columbia. — Returning  to  Murpheys, 
we  take  the  cross  stfige  via  Douglass 
Flat,  Valliceto,  crossing  the  Stanislaus 
River,  at  Abbey's  Ferry,  arriving  at  Co- 
lumbia in  12  miles  from  Murpheys. 

The  scenery  at  the  crossing  of  the 
Stanislaus  is  grand,  and  we  find  Colum- 
bia one  of  the  largest  and  finest  towns 
in  the  mining  region,  having  a  popula- 
tion of  some  2,000,  with  fine  brick 
stores,  hotels,  churches,  &c.,  &c. 

In  the  vicinity,  many  large  mining 
operations  are  being  carried  on,  which 
will  interest  the  traveller. 

Beyond,  a  little  over  a  mile,  is  the 
thriving  village  of  Springfield,  and  two 
miles  fart^her  lies  Shaw's  Flat,  another 
important  point. 

Table  Mountain,  also,  is  well  worth  a 
visit.  Many  tunnels  are  found  piercing 
the  mountain  for  thousands  of  feet, 
yielding  immense  profits  to  the  lucky 


CALIFORNIA. 


877 


Bonnra— Valley  of  the  Yosemity— Msriposa. 


ownert.  Jt  is  a  formation  of  basaltic 
lava,  and  to  the  geologist  its  peculiar 
formation  would  be  of  much  interest. 

Sonora.  Hourly  lines  of  stages  con- 
nect Columbia  with  Sonora,  the  county 
seat,  distant  four  miles. 

Sonora  is  the  most  important  mining 
town  in  the  southern  mines,  containing 
a  population  of  about  8,000  souls.  A 
fine  Court  House,  several  churches,  three 
or  four  good  hotels,  and  many  fine 
stores  adorn  the  place.  Daily  lines  of 
stages  leave  and  arrive  from  Stockton 
and  Sacramento  City,  with  many  routes 
diverging  north  and  south  to  the  way 
places. 

Oooltersville.  We  will  take  the 
stage  for  Coultersville,  Mariposa  Coun- 
ty, passing  through  Jamestown,  6  miles ; 
Montezuma  Flat,  8 ;  Chinese  Camp,  11 ; 
crossing  the  Tuolumne  River  at  Don 
Pedro's  Bar,  26.  Arriving  at  Coulters- 
ville same  day,  distant  from  Sonora  40 
miles. 

Coultersville  is  a  small  mining  town, 
containing  a  few  stores  which  supply 


the  miners  in  the  vicinity ;  the  traveller 
will  find  good  accommodations  at  Coul- 
ter's Hotel.  In  the  vicinity  many  large 
quartz  veins  occur,  and  one  of  the 
largest  quartz  mills  in  the  southern  sec- 
tion of  the  State. 

The  Valley  of  the  Toiemlty.  A 
trip  to  the  celebrated  valley  of  the  To* 
semity  from  this  point  would  amply 
repay  the  tourist.  The  valley  is  about 
46  miles  east  of  here,  and  is  reached 
upon  animals ;  the  trip  can  be  made  in 
four  or  five  days,  with  ample  time  to 
view  the  different  points  in  the  valley. 
The  High  Falls  of  the  Tosemity  Valley 
are  2,600  feet  in  height,  while  four 
other  cascades,  from  200  to  900  feet,  in 
the  immediate  vicinity,  are  objects  of 
the  highest  interest  to  the  lovers  of  na> 
ture. 

The  scenery  of  this  valley,  also,  is 
perhaps  the  most  remarkable  in  the 
United  States,  and  perhaps  in  the 
world. 

Mariposa.  F^om  Coultersville  we 
can  reach  Mariposa  by  mules,  crossing 


Talley  of  the  Tosemity,  CaUfornia. 


878 


OAUFOVmA. 


Mwipoaa— The  Baa  Joaqalih-Stoeklon. 


the  Merced  River,  or  by  returning  to* 
WBrds  the  plidne,  taking  the  cross  stage 
from  Bonora  at  French  Bar,  on  the 
Tuolumne  lUrer,— <li8tance  by  the  latter 
route  about  60,  and  by  the  former  26 
miles. 

Mariposa,  the  county  seat  of  Mari< 
posa  Oounty,  is  about  90  miles  from 
Stockton,  with  which  it  is  connected  by 
daily  lines  of  stages  occupying  nearly 
two  days,  staying  over  night  at  a  house 
on  the  Merced.  The  town  has  a  popu* 
lation  of  about  1,600  inhabitants,  and 
contains  numerous  fine  stores,  several 
hotels,  &c.  In  the  vicinity  many  rich 
quartz  veins  occur,  among  which  mav 
be  mentioned  the  '*  Fremont  Vein.'' 
The  valley  of  the  Mariposa  (a  creek) 
is  owned  by  the  land  claim  of  Col.  Fre- 
mont. Its  value  has  been  greatly  ov^r* 
rated ;  still  many  portions  of  the  valley 
are  important  for  agi^cultural  purposes. 
The  placer  mines  and  veins,  however, 
belong  to  the  hardy  miner. 

In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  town 
are  many  rich  placer  diggins,  and  sev- 
eral mining  towns  lie  toward  the  plains, 
viz..  Aqua  Frio  Hornebas,  Quartzburgh, 
&c. 

The  San  Joaqtdn.  From  Mariposa, 
a  journey  south  toward  the  San  Jo* 
aquin'  will  have  to  be  pertbrmed  on 
animals,  as  no 'public  routes  are  run- 
ning south  of  this  point.  Fort  Miller, 
on  the  San  Joaqidn,  is  distant  about 
60  miles,  and  can  be  reached  via  the 
Frezno  River,  or  by  returning  to  the 
plains  and  taking  the  wagon  route 
crossing  the  lower  Mariposa,  Chow- 
chilla,  Frezno.  Accommodations  for 
travellers  are  found  all  along  the  route. 

From  Fort  Miller,  south,  the  road 
passes  near  the  foot  hills  of  the  Sieri;^ 
of  which  many  fine  views  are  obtained. 
In  30  miles  we  reach  King's  River,  a 
large  stream,  the  principal  tributary  of 
the  Great  Tulare  Lake,  of  the  valley 
of  the  San  Joaquin. 

King's  River  Settlement  contains 
some  of  the  finest  agricultural  land  in 
the  State.  The  river  bottoms  are  finely 
timbered  with  oaks,  and  the  view  to- 
ward the  mountain  exceedingly  fine. 

Beyond  King's  river  we  journey  over 


a  level  plain,  with  the  snow-capped 
peaks  of  the  Sierra  on  our  left,  arriving 
at  the  Four  Greek  country  in  89  miles. 
This  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  por- 
tions of  California,  and  is  destined  to 
contain  a  large  agricultural  population ; 
the  settlement  now  contains  some  Soo 
or  400  souls.  The  view  from  near  the 
bridge  of  the  mountains  is  one  of  the 

grandest  in  the  whole  range  of  the 
ierra. 

The  next  point  south  is  Tulu  river, 
distant  26  miles ;  thence  onward  south 
we  arrive  at  Kern  river,  distant  some 
270  miles  from  Stockton ;  two  days 
from  Tulu  river. 

From  Kern  river  to  Tejon  Pass  and 
the  Indian  Reservation  at  the  head  of 
the  great  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin,  a 
distance  of  86  miles,  and  about  325 
miles  from  Stockton,  we  arrive  the  same 
day.  Here  Uie  Sierra  Nevada  and 
Coast  Range  meet,  and  form  the  head 
of  the  valley  at  the  pass  of  the  Canada 
de  las  Nevas. 

A  route  via  the  latter  pass,  or  the 
old  pass  of  the  Tejou,  conducts  the 
traveller  to  Los  Angelos,  a  distance  of 
110  miles  to  the  south. 

The  traveller  will  now  return  along 
the  great  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin,  a 
distance  of  about  826  miles,  re-crossing 
Kern  river,  Tulu  river,  the  Cahwea  or 
Four  Creeks,  King's  Rio,  San  Joaquin, 
Fresno,  Chowchilla,  Mariposa,  Merced, 
Tuolumne  and  Stanislaus  rivers.  All 
these  are  difierent  tributaries  coming 
down  from  the  Sierra  and  flowing  into 
the  San  Joaquin,  which  falls  into  the 
Bay  of  Suisun,  an  arm  of  the  Bay  of 
San  Francisco. 

Stockton.  In  six  days  from  the 
Tejon  Reservation,  the  traveller  arrives 
at  the  city  of  Stockton. 

This  important  place  is  situated  upon 
a  slough  or  arm  of  the  San  Joaquin 
river,  and  is  126  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco via  the  steamboat  route. 

Stockton  is  the  centre  of  trade  and 
travel  for  all  the  country  south  of  the 
Cosumnes  river,  the  district  generally 
known  as  the  Southern  Mines. 

The  city  contains  a  population  ot 
some  10,000  inhabitants,  having  sererai 


OAuroBiriA. 


879 


the  snow-capped 
our  left,  arriving 
intry  in  89  miles. 
»at  beautiful  por- 
id  is  destined  to 
Iturftl  population ; 
sntains  some  300 
BW  from  near  the 
ins  is  one  of  the 
Die  range  of  the 

ith  is  Tulu  river, 
nee  onward  soutli 
iver,  distant  some 
ookton ;  two  days 

;o  Tejon  Pass  and 
an  at  the  bead  of 
he  San  Joaquin,  s 
IS,  and  about  326 
we  arrive  the  same 
ierra  Nevada  and 
,nd  form  the  head 
}aaa  of  the  Canada 

itter  pass,  or  the 
jou,  conducts  the 
eloB,  a  ^t.\nce  of 
th. 

now  return  along 
le  San  Joaquin,  a 
miles,  re-cro8sing 
._•,  the  Cahwea  or 
Rio,  San  Joaquin, 
posa,  Merced, 
lislaus  rivers.  All 
tributaries  coming 
and  flowing  into 
Ihich  falls  into  the 
irm  of  the  Bay  of 

|x  days  from  the 
le  traveller  arrives 
Ion. 

Ice  is  situated  upon 
T  the  San  Joaquin 
EiS  from  San  Fran- 
lat  route. 
>ntre  of  trade  and 
intry  south  of  the 
district  generally 
(rn  Mines. 

a  population  ot 
nts,  having  several 


Stockton— Down  the  Ooaat— Monterey,  etc 


churches,  a  theatre,  several  good  hotels, 
among  which  are  the  Weber  House, 
Magnolia  House,  United  States  Hotel, 
etc.  The  streets  are  well  graded  and 
planked ;  many  of  the  stores  and  other 
places  of  business  are  fine  structures  of 
brick.  A  daily  line  of  steamers  from 
San  Francisco  reach  the  place  in  the 
morning,  and  connect  with  the  numer- 
ous lines  of  stages  which  leave  every 
morning  for  the  various  mining  towns 
in  the  interior.  In  the  environs  of 
Stockton;  particularly  toward  the  Cala-^ 
veras  river,  many  fine  farms  or  ranches 
are  located,  and  under  good  improve- 
ment. The  State  Asylum  for  the  in- 
sane, a  noble  structure,  is  situated  near 
the  suburbs  of  the  city. 

Leaving  Stockton  on  the  return  to 
San  Francisco,  we  take  the  steamer  at 
4  o'clock  P.  M.,  and  wending  our  way 
down  the  narrow  orooked  channel  of 
the  San  Joaquin,  we  see  but  little  to  in- 
terest, as  the  country  is  almost  a  total 
marsh,  covered  with  the  rush  called  the 
Tulu,  toward  the  setting  sun.  Mount 
Diablo  rears  his  double  summit  to  the 
height  of  8,790  feet,  presenting  a  grand 
outline,  while  the  coast  range  stretches 
to  the  south  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach, 
forming  the  western  boundary  of  the 
great  valley  which  we  have  just  traversed. 

Morning  finds  us  at  our  comfortable 
quarters  in  San  Francisco,  after  the  long 
tour  through  the  great  valleys  of  the  Sac- 
ramento and  San  Joaquin,  with  the  ride 
through  the  mountains  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  which  forms  the  eastern  bound- 
ary of  these  great  valleys.  The  time 
occupied  by  such  a  trip  would  be  in  the 
neighborhood  of  two  months,  at  an  ex- 
pense of  about  |500. 

Down  the  Ooaat.  A  pleasant  and 
most  interesting  trip,  via  the  coast,  to 
Los  Angelos  and  San  Diego,  con  be 
made  in  two  or  three  weeks. 

Weekly  lines  of  coast  steamers  leave 
San  Francisco  for  the  southern  ports, 
touching  at  Monterey,  Santa  Barbara, 
San  Pedro  (the  port  of  Los  Angelos),  to 
San  Diego,  486  miles,  making  the  trip 
down  in  4  days,  returning  in  about  the 
same  time.  The  fare  is  generally  about 
$40  each  way. 


BSontany  is  beautiflilly  situated 
upon  the  bay  of  the  same  name,  90 
miles  by  sea  from  San  Francisco.  It 
was  formerly  the  seat  of  government, 
and  prhicipol  port  on  the  coast  of  Oal- 
ifomia. 

But  since  the  rise  of  Son  Francisco,  its 
commerce  and  business  have  dwindled 
away,  and  now  it  is  one  of  the  most 
quiet  and  forlorn  places  in  the  State. 
The  view  of  the  town  fh)m  the  anchor- 
age b  very  fine,  especially  if  visited  in 
the  months  of  April  or  May.  The  green 
slopes  upon  which  the  town  is  built, 
contrast  beautifhlly  with  the  forest  of 
pines  which  grow  upon  the  ridges  be- 
yond. 

BaaUButenL  The  steamers  afford 
a  fine  view  of  the  coast,  as  they  pass 
very  near  the  land,  and  approaching 
Santa  Barbara,  the  view  is  very  im- 
posing. High  ranges  of  mountains 
bound  the  view  to  the  eastward,  while 
the  beautiful  valley  in  which  the  town 
is  situated,  stretches  far  to  the  north- 
ward, finely  relieved  by  a  back-ground 
of  misty  mountains  grand  in  outfine. 

This  place,  with  the  other  ports  along 
the  coast,  is  famous  for  the  hide  busi- 
ness, formerly  the  stitple  product  of 
Colifomia. 

Santa  Barbara  has  no  protected  har- 
bor like  San  Pedro  and  other  places 
along  the  coast;  it  is  only  an  open 
roacbtead,  dangerous  during  a  south- 
easter, which,  however,,  occurs  only 
during  the  rainy  season. 

The  town,  like  Monterey  and  the 
other  old  places  in  California,  retains 
much  of  its  old  Spanish  look— the  build- 
ings of  adobes  or  sun-dried  bricks, 
roofed  with  tiles,  presenting  a  venerable 
appearance. 

A  ride  to  the  mission  of  Santa  Bar- 
bara, about  8  miles  from  the  landing, 
would  be  of  interest. 

The  climate  below  Point  Conception 
(which  lies  between  Monterey  and  Santa 
Barbara)  is  much  milder.  The  north- 
west winds  which  prevail  to  the  north, 
are  not  felt,  and  the  climate  is  much 
warmer. 

ItOB  Angelos.  From  San  Pedro 
(800  miles  from  San  Francisco)  we  pro* 


880 


OAUFOBMU. 
Bm  IHtgOi-np  th«  OoMt,  at*. 


oeed  to  Los  Angelos,  the  moat  Import- 
ant plaee  in  the  extreme  loutbem  part 
of  Ouifomiaj  by  the  atage  route  of  2*7 
milei  fW>m  tne  former  port. 

Lot  Angelos  ii  situated  on  the  San 
Gabriel  river,  whose  watery  rise  to  the 
eastward  among  the  high  pealu  of  the 
coast  range.  The  houses  are  mostly  of 
the  Spanish  style,  one  story,  with  flat 
roofs,  covered  with  asphaltum,  which 
abounds  in  the  vicinity. 

Along  the  banks  of  the  river  for 
miles  are  situated  the  vineyards  and 
orange  groves,  the  pride  of  Los  Angelos. 

Vast  tracts  of  the  fertile  plains  and 
river  bottoms  are  irrigated  by  the  wa- 
ters of  the  river,  producing  every  va- 
riety of  fruit  and  vegetable  common  to 
the  warm  and  temperate  climes. 

In  the  months  of  March  and  April, 
looking  tcom  these  fertile  plains,  cov- 
ered with  the  richeat  verdure,  the  snow- 
olad  heights  beyond  contrast  beauti- 
fiiUy  with  the  flowers  at  their  feet. 

To  the  souUi,  Mount  St.  Bernardino 
rises,  covered  with  snow,  80  miles  dis- 
tant, and  marks  the  site  of  the  pleasant 
valley  in  which  the  Mormon  settlement 
of  Bernardino  is  situated. 

Sua  DIsgo*  Returning  to  San  Pedro 
by  the  stage,  we  leave  for  San  Diego, 
the  most  southern  port  of  California ; 
distant  from  San  Francisco  490  miles. 

This  is  one  of  the  best  harbors  on 
the  coast ;  well  protected,  and  having  a 
fine  depth  of  water.  There  is  nothing 
very  agreeable  about  the  town,  and  the 
scenery  is  quite  uninteresting.  A  fine 
grazing  country  inland  abounds  in  large 
cattle  estates. 

We  will  now  return  to  San  Francisco, 
and  thence  take  a  look  at  the  more 
northern  places  along  the  coast. 

Up  the  Ooaat. — Steamers  leave  San 
Francisco  semi-monthly,  or  on  the  ar- 
rival of  the  Panama  steamers  for  Ore- 
gon, touching  at  the  principal  ports 
along  the  northern  coa^  of  California 
and  Southern  Oregon. 

A  line  is  usually  plying  to  Port  Or- 
ford  and  the  intermediate  ports  of  Trini- 
dad and  Crescent  City.  Sailing  vessels 
also  are  constantly  leaving  San  Francisco 
for  Puget  Sound  and  Vancouver's  Island. 


Many  of  the  Northern  Mines,  near 
the  coast,  are  reached  by  Teasels  run- 
ning to- Humbolt  Bay,  Trinidad,  Cres- 
cent Citv,  and  Port  Orford,  in  Oregon, 
the  gold  range  approaching  the  coast. 
Coal  is  also  found  in  immense  beds  in 
the  vicinity  of  Coose  Bay,  Oregon. 

Many  points  of  interest  are  reached 
by  the  tourists  at  these  places. 

The  scenery,  however,  of  the  Colum- 
bia River,  is  wild  and  grand  beyond 
description.  Vessels  of  tne  largest  tin 
proceed  up  the  river  from  Astoria,  at 
the  mouth,  to  Portland,  a  distance  of 
about  60  miles,  and  beyond  to  the  falls 
of  the  river,  where  the  Cascade  Range 
of  mountidns  cross. 

Some  of  the  mountain  peaks  of  the 
Cascade  Range  rival  those  of  the  Andes; 
covered  with  perpetual  snow,  and  con 
be  seen  from  various  points  on  the  Co- 
lumbia River.  Among  which  maybe 
named,  Mt.  Hood  and  Mt.  Jefferson. 

Portland  City  is  quite  a  place,  situated 
at  the  falls  of  the  Williamette. 

The  valley  of  the  Williamette  is  the 
garden  of  Oregon,  and  contidns  a  large 
population  of  permanent  settlers,  many 
of  whom  had  located  on  farms,  some 
time  before  the  Americans  commenced 
locating  in  Columbia. 

A  month's  travel  to  the  various  places 
on  the  Columbia  River  would  amply  re- 
pay the  tourist,  and  can  be  made  from 
San  Francisco  at  an  expense  of  about 
|176,  including  the  fare  each  way. 

The  distances  from  San  Francisco  are 
as  follows :  To  Trinidad,  Cal.,  240  miles; 
to  Crescent  City,  Cal.,  300  miles ;  Port 
Orford,  Oregon,  360  miles.  To  Astoria, 
mouth  of  the  Columbia  River,  618  miles; 
Portland  City,  Oregon,  668  miles. 

Sometimes  a  steamer  makes  the  voy- 
age to  Puget's  Sound  and  Vancouver's 
Island,  but  generally  a  sail  vessel  will 
have  to  be  taken  from  San  Francisco. 
Although  many  settlements  exist  upon 
the  waters  of  Puget's  Sound,  still  the 
country  is  new  and  almost  in  a  state  of 
nature,  its  primeval  forests  scarcely 
touched  by  the  axe  of  the  settler.  The 
country  in  the  vicinity  is  said  to  be 
rocky  and  sterile.  Its  lumber  and  fish- 
eries will,  for  years  to  come,  be  the  prin- 


OAUFORNIA. 


881 


them  Minet,  near 
id  by  Tenelt  run- 
r,  Trinidad,  Orea- 
Orford,  in  Oregon, 
Mching  the  coast, 
k  tmmenae  beds  in 
Bay,  Oregon, 
terest  are  reached 
)M  places, 
iver,  of  the  CoIam> 
nd  grand  beyond 
I  of  tne  largest  site 
ir  from  intoria,  at 
and,  a  distance  of 
beyond  to  the  falls 
the  Cascade  Range 

intain  pealis  of  the 
those  of  the  Andes; 
tual  snow,  and  can 
IS  points  on  the  Co- 
ong  which  may  be 
id  Mt.  Jefferson, 
lite  a  place,  situated 
rilliamette. 
I  Williamette  is  the 
ind  contuns  a  large 
inent  settlers,  many 
;ed  on  farms,  some 
lericans  commenced 

1. 

to  the  yarious  places 
rer  would  amply  re- 
can  be  made  from 
expense  of  about 
[fare  each  way. 

San  Francisco  are 
Jad,  Cal.,  240  miles; 
»!.,  800  miles ;  Port 
[miles.    To  Astoria, 
)ia  River,  618  miles; 
)n,  668  miles, 
oer  makes  the  voy- 
td  and  Vancouver's 
a  sail  vessel  will 
fom  San  Francisco, 
lements  exist  upon 
It's  Sound,  stiU  the 
Almost  in  a  state  of 
il  forests    scarcely 
)f  the  settler.    The 
.  jty  is  said  to  be 
its  lumber  and  fish- 
come,  be  the  prin- 


Bontes  frwa  flan  franeiae*. 


eipal  attractions  to  the  emigrant.  Owing 
to  the  continued  hostilities  of  the  war- 
like tribes  of  Indians,  the  interior  i' 
scarcely  known. 

Many  of  the  mi^eitic  pe&ha  of  North- 
ern Oregon  are  risible  irom  the  waters 
of  the  Sound,  formUig  some  of  the  most 
sublime  scenes  on  the  western  coast  of 
Anaerica. 

Among  these,  are  Mt.  Baker,  Mt.  St. 
Helens,  and  Mt.  Reighner,  whose  alti* 
tudes  are  iW)m  16,000  to  18,000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  covered  with 
perpetual  snow.  Like  Mt.  Shasta,  in 
Northern  Oalifornia,  these  peaks  rise 
almost  isolated  cones,  and  are  evidently 
extinct  craters.  Some  of  them  have 
shown  volcanic  action  within  the  last 
few  years,  particularly  the  imposing 
heights  of  Mount  St.  Helen's. 

A  voyage  to  and  from  St.  Puget's 
Sound  might  be  made  in  a  sailing  vessel 
at  a  cost  of  $160,  in  a  month  or  six 
weeks'  time,  if  one's  leisure  should  be 
abundant. 

Or  the  traveller  could  reach  the  south- 
em  end  of  the  Sound  from  Fort  Van- 
oouver,  on  the  Columbia  River,  visiting 
the  valley  of  the  Cowlitz,  returning  to 
San  Francisco  via  the  steamer.    This 


could  als«  be  included  very  conyeni* 
ently  and  pleasantly  in  the  trip  to  Aa* 
toria  and  Portland. 

Returning  to  San  Francisco,  a  voyage 
to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  a  distance  of 
2,000  miles,  could  be  made  per  sailing 
vessels  in  12  or  U  days,  at  a  cost  of 
$76  to  and  from  the  island.  The  return 
voyage  generally  occupies  20  or  26  days, 
thoueh  the  run  has  been  made  in  much 
less  time. 

Vessels  of  every  description  are  con- 
stantly leaving  San  Francisco  for  all  the 
various  groups  of  Islands  in  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  and  the  various  ports  of  Mexico, 
Central  America  and  South  America. 
All  the  latter  can  be  reached  per 
steamers,  which  touch  at  all  the  porta 
from  San  Francisco  to  Valparaiso,  in 
ChiU. 

Clipper  ships  also  are  constantly  leav- 
ing for  the  ports  of  China,  touching  at 
the  Sandwich  Islands  frequently;  and 
several  lines  are  constantly  plying  to 
and  from  Australia,  touching  at  many 
of  the  Pacific  groups  of  Islands,  oiTering 
all  desirable  accommodations  to  ^e 
voyager. 

The  fare  to  China  or  Australia,  is  from 
100  to  260  dollars. 


8UMMABT  07  BOUTES  IN  CALIFOBNIA  AND  OBEOON,  FBOM  SAN  FBAN- 

GISOO  TO 


PLAOa. 

ooimTAKoa. 

DISTANCE 

•ma. 

TABS. 

aiMABKB. 

Btoramento  Olty 

Stockton 

Steamboat, 

do. 
Steamer  &  Stage, 
Steamer, 

Steamer  &  Stage, 
Steamer, 

do. 
Stage, 
do. 
Steamer, 
do. 

Steamer  dc  Stage, 
Steamer, 

do. 
Steamer, 

do. 

do. 

Mil*!. 

127 

125 

60 

80 

60 
9 

12 
126 

62 

90 
800 

425 
485 
240 
800 
860 
518 

Thonrs, 
10     " 
6     " 
8     " 

10     " 
1     « 

1  " 
U  days, 
12  hours, 
12     " 
86     " 

Sda^s, 

a    » 

2  " 
8      " 
6     " 

do. 

•8  to  8, 

60ct8. 

do. 

S. 

•60, 
•60, 

It 

San  Jose 

fienecla  

By  Sacramento  or 
Stockton  Boats. 

Kassa  and  Sonoma 

Oakland 

AUni(Hlm 

Monterey  (by  land) 

New  Almaden  Mines. . . . 

Monterey  (by  sea) 

Banta  Barbara 

Via  San  Jose, 
do. 

San  Pedro  and 

Los  Angeloa 

Stage  27  miles. 

San  Dieeo 

Trinidad  and 

Crescent  City 

Port  Orford,  Oregon 

Astoria,            *     

382 


CALIFOBNL'i. 


Boutbs  from  Stoektoa  and  firom  Sacramento  City. 


SUMMABT  OF  STAGE  BOUTES  FROM  STOCKTON  TO 


ThkOM. 

DIBTAKOK. 

WAVE. 

TnnB. 

BXHABXt. 

SonoriL  Taolnmne  Co. . . 
Columbia,       do. 
Mokelumne  Hill,  Calav- 
eras Co 

MilN 

65 
89 

49 

Tl 

95 

85 

18  to  15, 
do. 

10  hours, 
do. 

8  hours, 
12     u 

IS  hours. 

Yla  Eulght*s  Feny,  &o. 

Murpheys. 

From  Murpheys  to  Mammoth  Tree 
Grove,  W  miles  by  private  con- 
veyance ;  time,  Sf  hours ;  |5  per 
day  for  animals. 

Mariposa 

CoaitersTiile 

From  Conlteraville  or  Mariposa  the 
Yosemlty  Valley  can  be  reached 
on  animals  in  a  day  and  a  hsl£ 
Mules  18  to  |5  per  day.  Best 
Bonte  n-om  Goultersvllle;  dis- 
tance, 45  miles. 

All  the  numerous  mibing  towns  in  the  Counties  of  Calaveras,  Tuolumne, 
Stanislaus,  Merced,  Mariposa,  &c.,  can  bo  reached  by  either  of  the  above  routes, 
or  by  lines  of  coaches  in  connection  with  the  above,  departing  and  arriving  with 
excellent  despatch] 

Tulare  County,  Kern  River,  and  the  Tejon  Reservation,  can  be  reached  by 
the  regular  wagon  road  on  animals  or  in  private  vehicles,  always  readily  and 
reasonably  procurable. 

SUMMABT  OF  STAGE  BOUTES  FBOM  SACBAMEITTO  CITT  TO 


PLAOI. 


Msrysvllle  .. 

Nevada  

Grass  Valley 
Auburn 


Georgetown,  via 
Greenwood  Valley. 

Coloma 

Plaeervllle 

Drytown..* 

Jackson,         )  Same  . 
Volcano vUle,  f  Stage  . 

Stockton 

Sonora 


DUTAVOK. 


Mil*!. 

44 

69 
65 
88^ 


60 
68 
61 
40 
51 
65 
60 
80 


(■ABB. 


IS  to  15, 

•10, 
do. 
•8, 


♦18. 

•10, 

•8  to  110, 

pto|8, 

•8  to  110, 

do. 
|6to|8, 
•10to|l2, 


TDfX. 


6  hours, 
10     " 
9     " 
8     *• 


10tol2h. 
10  hours, 
10     » 

8     " 

8  " 
13  " 
10  " 
16     " 


BBKABKB. 


Fine  level  road. 

Same  road. 

Passes  on  to  Grass  Valley  and  Ne- 
vada, and  connects  at  Anborn 
for  Illlnoistown,  Iowa  Hill,  and 
places  beyond. 


Via  Mud  and  Diamond  Springs. 
Same  Stage  for  Fiddletown,  fi2  m., 
and  Indian  Diggings,  68  miles. 

Fine  level  road. 
Via  Mokelunme  HUL 


The  numerous  mining  camps  and  side  places  are  reached  by  way  coaches 
from  either  of  the  above  places.  The  traveller  will  find  no  lack  of  attractive 
detours  to  occupy  his  tin<^. 

The  roads  in  California  are  of  a  quality  which  would  be  most  creditable  to  s 
country  of  venerable  age.  The  public  conveyances  have  no  short-comings  to 
remind  the  passenger  of  the  brief  interval  only  which  has  elapsed  since  their 
appearancie  surprised  the  wilderness ;  and  the  speed  with  which  they  travel  is  in 
perfect  keeping  with  the -rapidity  of  movement  characteristic  in  all  things  of 
the  latitude. 


OHBGON  TEBBTFOBY. 


868 


,  can  be  reached  by 
,  always  readUy  and 


ro  CITY  TO 


BoTites  from  Marysrille,  GiL 


BUMMABY  OP  STAGE  E0UTE8  FROM  MABYSYILLE  TO 

PLAOa. 

DIBTAKOK. 

TASK. 

TDOg. 

BmABKS. 

aiiMtn  Cltv. 

Mllei. 

182 

248 
8:2 

T6 

66 

26 
42 

86 
IB 

$20  to  $25, 

$80  to  $40, 
$6  to  $8, 

$12, 
$12, 

$s, 

$4  to  $8, 
$8  to  $6, 

$8, 

2  days, 

6    » 
6    " 

12    " 

14    " 

<    " 

8    " 

T    " 
4    « 

Storing  one  night  at  Bidwell's  or 

Via  Shuto  Citjr. 

With  connections  for  ploees  be* 

yond. 
Passing  on  to  the  nnmerons  places 

in.  vicinity. 
Passing    through     Forest    City, 

Gblpps,  Minnesota,  &o^  Jeo. 
and  beyond  to  Thompson's  Flat. 

Ynlra 

niiiurAirii  Bar. . .  • 

mtuiniiTtlle 

fkownifivillo.  ....•• • 

Op]ilr 

ffavoAA 

Passlne  throngh  Roueh  and  Beady, 
and  Grass  Valley,  Ac.,  &a. 

Passing  through  Gold  Hill  and 
OphlrTlUe,  && 

Anburn 

Coliui,  on  the 
Sacramento  Blver.... 

Several  other  stage  liaes  from  Marysville. 


Stages  connect  with  the  small  steam- 
ers at  Petaluma  for  Santa  Rosa  Valley, 
Russian  River,  Bodega,  on  the  coast, 
and  a  line  to  the  Geysers  and  Napa 
Springs  (recently). 

Stages  leave  Benecia  for  Yallejo,  7 
miles;  Napa,  20, miles;  Sonoma,  31, 


and  thence  to  the  Springs.  A  line  also 
goes  to  Sacramento  City  by  land,  via 
Suisun,  Putah  and  Cache  Creek,  &c. 

Stages  also  leave  Napa  CSty  for  aXL  the 
places  in  Napa  Valley  to  the  Springs,  on 
the  arrival  of  the  steamer  from  San 
Francisco. 


OEEGON  TEKRITORT. 

This  territory  of  the  United  States,  now  on  the  eve  of  admission  into  the 
Union  as  a  State,  lies  on  the  Pacific  Ocean,  separated  from  the  wilds  of  British 
America  by  Washington  territory  only,  and  on  the  east  from  Nebraska  by  the 
Rocky  Mountains.     Utah  and  California  lie  on  its  southern  borders. 

The  wonderful  coarse  of  empire  of  late  years  towards  the  western  shores  of 
the  United  States,  is  bringing  Oregon,  scarcely  less  than  California,  into  the 
great  family  of  prosperous  and  populous  nations.  It  was  but  the  other  day  that 
the  only  homes  of  civilisation  in  that  remote  land  were  found  in  the  rude  cabins 
of  tl^e  exiled  trappers,  and  now  the  lonely  waters  are  everywhere  traversed  by 
richly  freighted  steamers,  and  their  shores  adorned  with  cities  and  towns  and 
cultivated  fields. 

The  first  visit  of  the  white  race  to  Oregon  was  in  111  6,  when  a  Spanish 
voyager  entered  the  Juan  de  Fuca  Straits.  Three  years  afterwards  (1*778),  the 
celebrated  navigator.  Captain  Cook,  sailed  along  its  shores.  In  1*791  the  waters 
of  the  Columbia  river  were  discovered  by  Captain  Gray,  of  Boston.  An  expedi- 
tion, or  exploring  party,  was  sent  out  in  the  year  1804  by  the  United  States,  com- 
manded by  Lewis  and  Clark,  who  wintered  in  1 806-6  at  the  mouth  of  the  C(H\im- 
bia.  From  this  period  the  coast  was  a  great  resort  of  both  English  and  Ameri- 
can fur  traders. 

By  the  treaty  with  Great  Britain  in  1846,  this  great  territory,  which  had  up  to 
that  time  been  jointly  occupied  ly  English  and  American  adventurers,  was  di- 


384 


OBBGON  TBBBITOBT. 


Physical  Aspect— Bivers. 


Tided''— the  one  taking^  the  portion  above  the  parallel  of  49°  north  latitude,  and 
the  other  all  the  country  south  of  that  line. 

Emigration  to  Oregon  was  earnestly  commenced  in  1839.  For  some  years  the 
settlement  of  the  country  was  retarded  by  the  more  brilliant  attractions  of  Cali- 
fornia, though  the  ultimate  result  of  this  neighborship  will  be  a  great  means  of 
development,  as  Oregon  is  an  agricultural  land,  whose  products  will  be  required 
by  the  mining  population  of  the  lower  State. 

Washington  Territory,  on  the  north,  was  a  part  of  Oregon  until  the  year  1858, 
when  it  was  erected  into  a  distinct  government. 

The  physii  a!  apportionment  of  Oregon  falls  naturally  into  the  three  divisions 
of  the  lower  cg'on,  lying  next  to  the  Pacific ;  the  middle  lands  between  the 
Cascade  Range  und  the  Blue  Mountains,  and  the.  eastern  or  upper  country,  ex- 
tending from  the  Blue  to  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  coast  of  Oregon,  viewed  from  the  sea,  is  like  that  of  California,  stern  and 
rock-bound,  excepting  that  while  in  the  latter  region  the  nearer  mountains  fol> 
low  the  line  of  the  shore,  in  Oregon  they  approach  the  ocean  at  a  great 
angle.  The  lower  or  Pacific  country  occupies  an  area  of  from  76  to  120  miles 
wide,  !n  which  lie  the  great  valleys  of  Willamette,  Umpqua,  and  Rogue  rivers. 

The  middle  region  is  an  elevated  plateau,  extending  160  miles.  The  upper 
lands  lying  on  the  western  slopes  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  are  desolate  and 
sterile,  covered  with  repulsive  beds  of  lava,  in  which  the  rivers  and  streams  have 
worn  deep,  impenetrable  gorges. 

Though  the  valley  lands  of  the  Willamette  and  the  adjacent  re^ons  are  ex- 
tremely fertile,  yet  the  greater  portion  of  Oregon  is  unfit  for  tillage,  being,  as  it 
is,  a  country  of  untamed  and  untamable  hills. 

The  climate  here,  as  on  all  the  Pacific  coast,  is  milder  than  in  corresponding 
latitudes,  near  the  Atlantic.  -  The  winters  are  comparatively  brief  and  thesnovs 
light. 

Gold  and  other  valuable  minerals  exist  here,  though  whether  to  any  great 
extent  is  not  yet  ascertuned. 


The  Oolnmbia  River  of  Oregon,  is 
the  greatest  on  the  Pacific  slope  of  this 
Continent.  It  rises  in  a  small  lake 
among  the  western  acclivities  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  flows  in  a  devious 
course  1,200  miles  to  the  Pacific,  form- 
ing a  great  portion  of  the  dividing  line 
between  Oregon  and  Washington  Ter- 
ritory on  the  north.  Its  earliest  mean- 
derings  are  northward  along  the  base  of 
its  great  native  hills,  and  afterwards  its 
way  is  due  west  to  the  sea,  though  very 
capriciously.  It  is  a  rapid  river,  push- 
ing its  way  through  mighty  mountain 
passes,  and  in  many  a  cataract  of  mar- 
vellous beauty.  In  its  course  through 
the  Cascade  Range,  it  falls  into  a  series 
of  charming  rapids,  which  may  be  num- 
bered among  the  chief  natural  attrac- 
tions of  the  country.  The  tide  sets  up 
to  this  point  140  miles.  For  80  or  40 
miles  from  its  mouth,  the  Columbia 


spreads  out  into  a  chain  of  bay-like  ex- 
pansions, from  4  to  7  miles  or  more  in 
width.  The  shores  are  lined  with  grand 
mountain  heights,  making  the  landscape 
everywhere  extremely  interesting  and 
impressive.  We  should  far  exceed  our 
present  opportunity  in  attempting  even 
the  briefest  catalogue  of  the  pictures  on 
these  noble  waters.  Vessels  of  200  or 
800  tons  burthen  may  ascend  to  the 
foot  of  the  cascades,  of  which  we  hare 
already  spoken.  Above  this  point  the 
river  is  nav  igable  for  small  vessels  only, 
and  but  at  intervals  in  its  course.  The 
principal  towns  and  settlements  of  the 
territory  are  upon  the  banks  of  the  Co- 
lumbia and  its  affluents. 

The  Willamette  River  flows  from 
the  foot  of  the  Cascade  Range,  in  the 
western  part  of  the  territory,  200  miles, 
first  north-west  and  then  north  to  the 
Columbia,  8  miles   below  Fort  Van* 


OBEOON  TBBBITOBY. 


885 


lorth  latitude,  and 

For  some  years  the 
ftttractibns  of  Call- 
e  a  great  means  of 
jts  will  be  required 

untilthe  year  1858, 

the  three  divisions 
landa  between  tlie 
upper  country,  ex- 

:!alifonua,  stern  and 
larer  mountains  foU 

ocean  at  a  great 
pom  15  to  120  miles 
and  Rogue  rivers. 

miles.  The  upper 
ks,  are  desolate  and 
srs  and  streams  have 

cent  regions  are  ex- 
r  tillage,  being,  aa  it 

tan  in  corresponding 
brief  and  the  snows 

lether  to  any  great 


^hMn  of  bay-like  ex- 
1  miles  or  more  in 
ire  lined  with  grand 
jialcing  the  landscape 
[ely  interesting  and 
'ould  far  exceed  our 
in  attempting  even 
le  of  the  pictures  on 
Vessels  of  200  or 
jay  ascend  to  the 
9,  of  which  we  have 
bove  this  point  the 
[r  small  vessels  only, 
in  its  course.    The 
g  settlements  of  the 
Ihe  banks  of  the  Co- 
Ints. 
Biver  flows  from 
aade  Rivnge,  in  the 
territory,  200  miles, 
then  north  to  the 
below  Fort  Van- 


Yalley  of  the  Willamette— Monntains— Towns— Boates. 


couver.  Its  way  is  through  the  beauti- 
ful valley  lands  which  bear  its  name, 
and  upon  Its  banks  are  Oregon  City, 
Portland,  Marysville,  Salem,  and  other 
thriving  settlements.  Steamboats  may 
ascend  16  miles,  to  Portland.  Ten  miles 
beyond  this  point  a  series  of  fine  falls 
occur  in  the  passage  of  the  river,  above 
which  the  waters  are  again  navigable, 
perhaps  60  miles,  for  small  steamboats. 
The  Falls  of  the  Willamette  is  a  famous 
place  for  the  capture  of  the  finest  sal- 
mon. Among  the  tributaries  of  the 
Willamette  are  the  Tuality,  Yam  Hill, 
Rockread,  Luckemiute,  Mary's  and 
Long  Tom  rivers,  coftiing  from  the  base 
of  the  Gallepooya  Mountains,  and  the 
UcKensie,  Sexton's,  Coup6,  Sandyam, 
Pudding,  Glackaneus,  and  Milwaukee 
rivers,  from  the  Cascade  Range. 

The  Valley  of  the  Willamette  is 
the  most  fertile  region  of  Oregon,  and 
one  of  the  most  attractive  in  its  natu- 
ral curiosities.  Many  remarkable  ex- 
amples are  to  be  found  here  of  those 
eccentric  mountain  formations  known 
as  Beetlers — ^huge,  conical,  insulated 
hills.  Near  the  mouth  of  the  CoupS 
river,  there  are  two  of  these  heights 
which  tower  up  1,000  feet,  but  half  a 
mile  removed  from  each  other  at  their 
base.  They  are  called  Pisgah  and  Sinai. 
They  stand  in  the  midst  of  a  plain  of 
many  miles  in  extent.  At  a  point  near 
the  RickreaU  river,  in  the  Willamette 
Valley,  no  less  than  seven  snow-capped 
peaks  of  the  Cascade  Range  may  be 
seen. 

Between  the  Blue  Mountains  and  the 
Cascade  Range  lie  a  number  of  small 
lakes. 

The  Oaaoade  Range  includes  some 
of  the  loftiest  mountain  peaks  in  the 
United  States,  among  which  are  Mount 
Hood,  Mount  Jefferson,  and  Mount 
Pitt.  The  first  of  this  grand  trio  has  a 
volcanic  crest  14,000  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea. 

Forest  Trees.  Oregon,  like  Cali- 
fornia, is  famous  for  its  wonderful  for- 
est growth.  The  Lambert  pine,  a  spe- 
cies of  fir,  sometimes  reaches,  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  country,  the  magnifi- 
cent height  of  800  feet. 
17 


Salem,  the  capital  of  Oregon,  is  on 
the  Willamette  River,  50  miles  above 
Oregon  City. 

Cteegon  Oity,  the  former  capital  of 
the  territory,  is  upon  the  Willamette, 
hidden  in  a  narrow,  high-walled  valley 
or  canon.  Falls  on  the  river  at  this 
point  afford  great  manufacturing  facili- 
ties to  the  growing  settlement. 

Portland,  the  largest  and  most  im- 
portant town  in  Oregon,  with  a  popula- 
tion of  about  8,000,  is  upon  the  Willa- 
mette, at  the  head  of  ship  navigation, 
15  miles  from  its  entrance  into  the  Co- 
lumbia. 

MUton  is  upon  the  west  side  of  the 
Columbia,  80  miles  from  Portland. 

Astorki,  named  in  honor  of  its  foun- 
der, John  Jacob  Astor,  is  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Columbia  river,  some  ten 
miles  from  its  mouth.  This  was  at  one  ' 
time  an  important  depot  in  the  fur  trade 
of  the  regioi. 

Routes.  Steamboats  ply  regularly 
between  San  Francisco  and  the  landings 
on  the  Columbia,  the  Willamette,  and 
other  rivers  of  Oregon,  affording  ready 
access  between  all  points.  In  default  of 
water  co"  munication,  there  are  good 
stage  routes  in  all  directions. 

From  St.  Louis  to  Oregon^  through  Pass 
in  the  Rocky  Mountaint. 

BY  BTBAIIBOAT. 

To  St.  Charles 40 

Gasconade  Biver 74  114 

Osage  River 82  146 

Jkffkbson  Gitt 10  106 

Booneville fiS  209 

Lexington 100  809 

lNDEPSin>XNCK 61  870 

Kansas  Biver  Landing 12  882 

BT  LAKD. 

Kansas  Biver  Crossing 76  467 

Platte  Biver, 220  677 

ForksofBiver 16  692 

Chimney  Bock 188  847 

Bcott'sBluff 22  869 

FortLaramie 60  929 

Bed  Butter 186  1084 

Bock  Independence 60  1184 

South  Pass  (Fremont's) 110  1244 

GreenBiver 69  1818 

Beer  Springs 191  1604 

Fortllall 60  1664 

American  Falls 22  1676 

Fishing  Falls 126  1701 

Lewis  Biver  Crossing 40  1741 

FortBoisse 180  1871 


386 


WASHINGTON  TBBBirOBT. 


Physical  Oharaoteristics ;  Settlements  and  Boutes  of  Washington  Territory. 


BomtBiver 70  1941 

OrandBonde 68  2009 

FortWalaWala 90  2090 

Umatillah  Biver 2S  2124 

John  Day's  Biver. 70  2104 


Falls  Biver 20 

The  Dalles 20 

Cascades 45 

Fort  Yancoaver 55 

ASTOBIA (100 


2214 
2284 
22T9 


WASHINGTOlSr  TERKITOEY. 

Washinqton  Tesritort,  until  recently  a  part  of  Oregon,  occupies  the  extreme 
north-west  corner  of  the  domain  of  the  United  States.  Its  greatest  extent  is 
about  600  miles  from  east  to  west  and  200  from  north  to  south.  On  the  north, 
it  is  separated  from  British  America  by  the  Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca.  The  Becky 
Mountains  lie  on  its  eastern  boundary,  Oregon  on  the  south,  and  the  Pacific 
OceiUi  on  the  west. 

The  general  appearance  of  this  region  is  very  similar  to  that  of  Oregon— 
traversed  as  both  countries  are  by  the  same  mountain  ranges  and  rivers.  The 
Columbia  traverses  the  territory,  dividing  it  into  unequal  parts  and  separating  it 
from  Oregon  on  the  south.  Mount  Olympus,  the  chief  peak  here  of  the  Coast 
Range,  is  8,107  feet  high,  covered,  like  most  of  the  summits  of  the  region,  with 
everlasting  snows.  Mount  St.  Helen's,  one  of  the  spurs  of  the  Cascade  Bange, 
has  an  elevation  of  12,000  feet ;  and  Mount  Rainier,  on  the  same  chain,  rises 
18,000  feet.  Mounts  Adam  and  Baker  are  other  grand  peaks  of  the  Cascade 
Range. 

The  chief  source  of  wealth  to  the  people  of  Oregon,  is  at  present  in  the  utili- 
zation  of  their  immense  forests  of  fir,  And  spruce,  and  cedar,  though  by  and  by, 
as  the  land  becomes  cleared,  it  can  be  made  productive  by  agricultural  industry, 
especially  in  the  culture  of  grass  and  the  raising  of  live  stock.  The  mammoth 
trees  of  California  and  Oregon  are  found  also  in  this  region. 

The  wilds  of  Washington  Territory  abound  in  elk,  deer  and  other  noble  game. 
Wild  fowl,  also,  of  many  varieties,  are  plentiful;  and  in  no  part  of  the  world  are 
there  finer  fish  than  may  be  caught  here. 

The  rivers  of  Washington  are  rapid  mountain  streams,  replete  with  picturesque 
beauty  in  bold  rocky  cliffs  and  precipices,  and  in  charming  cascades. 


Ol3rmpla,  the  capital  of  Washington 
Territory,  is  built  on  Tenalquet*s  or 
Strule's  River,  at  its  entrance  into  Pu- 

fet's  Sound,  in  the  extreme  western  or 
'acifio  section,  and  esteemed  as  the 
best  part  of  the  country. 

The  other  principal  towns  and  settle- 
ments of  this  Territory — are  Nesqually,, 
Steilacoom,  Seattle,  PortTownsend,  New 
York,  and  New  Dungeness,  on  Puget's 


Sound  and  Admiralty  Inlet ;  Pacific 
City,  Catalamet,  Fort  Vancouver,  Men- 
ticello  and  Cascade  City,on  the  Columbia 
River ;  Wabassport,  and  Cowlitz  Farms, 
on  the  Cowlitz  River ;  and  Pennscore, 
on  Whiddy's  Island. 

Routes  to  the  settlements  in  Wash- 
ington Territory,  by  steamboats  from 
San  Francisco,  along  the  coast,  and  to 
points  on  the  Columbia  River. 


KANSAS. 

Thb  extraordinary  circumstances  which  have  effected  and  accompanied  the 
recent  sudden  and  rapid  settlement  of  Kansas,  have  made  its  name  aiid  character 
more  familiarly  known  than  that  of  any  other  portion  of  the  great  western 
wilderness. 

The  passage  of  the  famous  Nebraska  bill  by  the  Congress  of  1868-4,  having 


I  I 


a  Territory. 

80 

^4 

20 

WH 

45 

9279 

6S 

8»84 

,100 

2484 

KANSAS. 
Settlement  of  the  Territory. 


887 


permitted  the  iDtroduGtion  of  slavery  in  this  region,  from  which  it  had  before 
been  excluded  by  the  act  Icnown  as  the  Missouri  Compromise — ^the  ultraists  of 
the  north  and  south,  called  respectively  the  free  soil  and  the  pro-slarery  parties, 
immediately  arrayed  themselves  against  each  other  and  made  prodigious  eftbrts 
to  possess  the  land,  by  settling  it  with  people  of  their  own  opinions.  Thus, 
under  the  guise  of  legitimate  emigration  sometimes,  and  without  any  disguise  at 
others,  a  system  of  propagandism  was  earnestly  set  on  foot  in  New  Engluid  and 
other,  portions  of  the  north,  which  was  met  and  repelled  by  opposing  efforts 
from  the  south.  Kansas  became  all  of  a  sudden  a  comparatively  populous  region, 
and  when  its  number  were  sufficient  to  authorize  a  political  organization  and  the 
strength  of  the  rival  parties  (the  one  advocating  the  exclusion  of  slavery  and 
the  other  its  introduction)  came  to  be  tested  at  the  ballot-box,  quarrels  ensued, 
which  grew  to  the  magnitude  of  civil  war,  with  aU  its  horrors  of  anarchy  and 
blood.  The  struggle  became  so  angry,  that  all  means,  whether  fair  or  foul,  were 
used  by  the  opposing  factions,  each  to  secure  the  ascendency  of  its  own  princi- 
ples. The  distressing  incidents  of  these  long  months  of  domestic  strife,  are 
stories  of  yesterday,  still  fresh  in  the  popular  memory.  The  vexed  question 
remains  yet  unsettled,  but  Kansas  is  quiet  again;  and  when  the  disputed  subject 
again  comes  up  for  discussion;  it  may  be  hoped  that  the  decree  of  the  majority 
of  the  people  will  be  submitted  to-— be  that  decree  whatever  it  may—without 
further  unlawful  and  revolutionary  protest. 

Kansas  remains  at  present  under  territorial  government,  but — ^the  question  of 
free  soil  and  slavery  not  interfering—will,  no  doubt,  soon  be  admitted  into  the 
Union  as  an  independent  State.  It  is  a  country  of  noble  proportions,  extending 
no  less  than  680  miles  in  its  greatest  length  and  208  miles  in  extreme  width. 
Nebraska  lies  on  the  northern  boundary  of  the  region,  the  States  of  Missouri 
and  Arkansas*on  the  east,  the  Indian  Territory  and  New  Mexico  on  the  south, 
and  New  Mexico  and  Utah  on  the  west. 

The  prevailing  landscape  features  of  Kansas  are  those  of  gently  alternating 
ridges,  or  terrace  and  valley.  The  country  is  a  vast  undulating  plain  from  the 
eastern  side  to  the  base  of  the  mountain  ranges  on  the  west. 

"  The  face  of  this  country,**  says  a  traveller,*  "  is  beautiful  beyond  all  compari- 
son. The  prairies,  though  broad  and  expansive,  stretching  away  miles  in  many 
places,  seem  never  lonely  or  wearisome,  being  gently  undulating,-  or  more 
abruptly  rolling ;  and,  at  the  ascent  of  each  new  roll  of  land,  the  traveller  finds 
himself  in  the  midst  of  new  loveliness.  There  are  also  high  bluffs,  usually  at 
some  little  distance  from  the  rivers,  running  through  the  entire  length  of  the 
country,  wMle  ravines  run  from  them  to  the  rivers.  These  are,  at  some  points, 
quite  deep  and  difficult  to  cross,  and,  to  a  traveller  unacquainted  with  the 
country,  somewhat  vexatious,  especially  where  the  prairie  grass  is  as  high  as  a 
person's  head,  while  seated  in  a  carriage.  There  is  little  trouble,  however,  if 
travellers  keep  back  from  the  water-courses,  and  near  the  high  lands.  These 
ravines  are  in  many  instances  pictures  of  beauty,  with  tall,  graceful  trees,  cotton- 
wood,  black  walnut,  hickory,  oak,  elm  and  linwood,  standing  near,  while  springs 
of  pure  cold  water  gush  from  the  rock.  The  bluffs  are  a  formation  unknown  in 
form  and  appearance,  in  any  other  portion  of  the  west.  At  a  little  distance,  a 
person  could  scarcely  realize  that  art  had  not  added  her  finishing  touches  to  a 
work,  which  nature  had  made  singularly  beautiful.  Many  of  the  blufb  appear 
like  the  cultivated  grounds  about  fine  old  residences  within  the  Eastern  States, 
terrace  rising  above  terrace,  with  great  regularity ;  while  others  look  like  forts 
in  the  distance.  In  the  eastern  part  of  the  territory,  most  of  the  timber  is  upon 
the  rivers  and  creeks,  though  there  are  in  some  places  most  deUghtful  spots; 


*EaiiBu:  Its  Interior  and  Exterior  life.    By  Bars  T.  L.  Bobinsoa. 


888 


KANSAS. 


Physioal  Ohaneter— Blvers,  Towns,  ete. 


high  hills  onowned  with  a  heavy  growth  of  trees,  and  deep  Tales,  where  rippling 
waters  gush  amid  a  dense  shade  of  flowering  shrubbery. 

"  Higher  than  the  bluffs  are  natural  mounds,  which  also  hare  about  them  the 
look  of  art.  They  rise  to  such  a  height  as  to  be  seen  at  a  great  distance,  and 
add  peculiar  beauty  to  the  whole  appearance  of  the  country.  From  the  summit- 
of  these  the  prospect  is  almost  unlimited  in  extent,  and  imrivalled  in  beauty. 
The  prairie  for  miles,  with  its  gently  undulating  rolls,  lies  before  the  eye.  Rivers, 
glistening  in  the  sunlight,  flow  on  between  banks  crowned  with  tall  trees ; — 
beyond  these,  other  high  points  arise.  Trees  are  scattered  here  and  there,  like 
old  orchards,  and  cattle  in  large  numbers  are  grazing  upon  the  hillnude  and  in 
valleys,  giving  to  all  the  look  of  cultivation  and  home-life.  It  is,  indeed,  difficult 
to  realize,  that  for  thousands  of  years  this  country  has  been  a  waste,  uncidtivated 
and  solitary,  and  that  months  only  have  elapsed  since  the  white  settler  has 
sought  here  a  home. 

"The  climate  is  exceedingly  lovely.  With  a  clear,  dry  atmosphere,  and 
gentle,  health-giving  breezes,  it  cannot  be  otherwise.  The  peculiar  clearness  of 
the  atmosphere  cannot  be  imagined  by  a  non-resident.  For  miles  here  a  person 
can  clearly  distinguish  objects,  which,  at  the  same  distance  in  any  other  part  of 
this  country,  he  coidd  not  see  at  all.    The  summers  are  long,  and  winters  short. 

/*  The  winters  are  usually  very  mild  and  open,  with  little  snow, — ^none  falling 
in  the  night,  save  what  the  morrow's  sun  will  quickly  cause  to  disappear.  So 
mild  are  they,  that  the  cattle  of  the  Vidians,  as  those  of  the  settlers  in  Western 
Missouri,  feed  the  entire  year  in  the  prairies  and  river-bottoms.  The  Indians 
say  that,  once  in  about  seven  years,  Kansas  sees  a  cold  and  severe  winter,  with 
snows  of  a  foot  in  depth.  Two  weeks  of  cold  weather  is  called  a  severe  winter. 
Then  the  spring-like  weather  comes  in  February ;  the  earth  begins  to  grow 
warm,  and  her  fertile  bosom  ready  to  receive  the  care  of  the  husbandman." 


Tlie  Kansas  River.  The  largest 
stream  of  this  territory,  excepting  the 
Missouri,  which  washes  its  north-east- 
em  boundary,  is  formed  by  the  Repub- 
lican  and  the  Smoky  Hills  Forks,  which 
rise  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  u^te 
their  waters  at  Fort  Riley.  The  length 
of  the  Kansas,  including  its  branches, 
is  nearly  1,000  miles.  Its  course  is 
through  a  productive  valley  region  or 
plain,  covered  with  forest  trees,  and 
varied  here  and  there  with  picturesque 
blufik  and  hills.  The  Kansas  river  is  a 
tributary  of  the  Missouri,  and  steam- 
boats ascend  from  its  mouth,  120  miles 
to  Fort  Riley. 

The  Platte  Biver  rises  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains  in  two  arms,  called 
the  North  and  the  South  Falls,  and  runs 
1,200  miles  into  the  Missouri.  I  is 
navigable  at  high  water  for  hundreds  of 
miles,  though  it  is  usually  shallow,  as  its 
name  implies.  It  abounds  in  islands, 
and  in  some  places  spreads  over  a 
breadth  of  three  or  more  mfles. 


The  Arkansas  River  has  nearly 
half  its  course  within  the  borders  of 
Kansas.  The  Osage  lUver  flows  nearly 
eastward,  500  mues  to  the  Missouri, 
10  miles  below  Jefferson  city. 

Pike's  Peak,  one  of  the  loftiest 
spurs  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  in  this 
!'Atit'ide,  rises  near  the  western  bor- 
Cem  of  Kansas.  Its  summit  is  12,000 
fe^C  in  air,  covered  with  perpetual 
snow. 

The  South  Park  is  a  natural  enclos- 
ure of  remarkable  beauty.  It  is  carpeted 
with  rich  grass,  and  environed  by  high 
mountain  tops. 

The  Buttes  of  Kansas  are  striking 
perpendicular  elevations  with  flat  sur- 
faces. They  vary  from  100  feet  to 
hundreds  of  yards. 

A  few  years  ago,  the  only  white 
settlements  in  Kansas,  as  in  Nebraska, 
were  the  United  States  military  sta- 
tions, but  now  pleasant  villages  and 
cities  are  springing  up  over  all  the  land. 

Pawnee,  on  the  north  branch  of  the 


NEBRASKA  TEBBTTOBT. 


880 


Towns  and  Boates  In  Kanaas. 


Kansas,  12  miles  west  of  the  confluence 
of  the  Big  Blue  River,  was  designated 
as  the  place  of  meeting  of  the  west  le- 
gislature, July  2d,  1866.  It  was  ad- 
journed on  the  6th  of  July,  without  the 
sanction  of  the  governor,  to  the  Shaw- 
nee mission  near  Westport. 

The  chief  towns  of  Kansas  are  upon 
the  Missouri  and  the  Kansas  Rivers. 
Wyandotte  city  is  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Missouri  and  the  Kansas.  Leaven- 
worth dty  is  immediately  South  of  Fort 
Leavenworth.'  Kickapoo  is  16  miles 
further  north.  Atchison  is  yet  20  miles 
above,  at  the  mouth  of  Independence 
Greek,  and  Doniphan  is  20  miles  yet 
further  up. 

Lawrence  city,  Douglass,  Tecumseh 
and  Whitfield  are  upon  the  Kansas  River. 

Elm  Orove,  Council  city  and  Council 
Grove  are  upon  the  Santa  Fe  Trail. 

Settlements  are  growing  up  also  on 
the  Osage  and  the  Big  Blue  Rivers,  and 
also  upon  some  of  the  minor  affluents 
of  the  Kansas. 

Routes  to  Kanaas.  From  New  York 
to  St.  Louis  and  Erie  Railway  to  Dun- 
kirk— ^thence  to  Chicago — ^thence  to  St.' 
Louis,  1,2*72  miles.  From  St  Louis  to 
Kansas,  by  the  Missouri  lUver,  460 
miles.  Total  distance  from  New  York 
1,722  miles ;  average  time,  10  days.  For 
other  routes  to  St.  Louis,  see  St.  Louis. 


Great  floods  of  travel  are  now  flowing 
towards  Kansas  and  Nebraska,  some  hj 
others  than  the  St.  Louis  route,  indi- 
cated above,  though  that  is  at  present 
every  way  the  best. 

DISTAKOBS  Ain>  NAXIS  Of  PLAOIS  BITWmr 
ST.  LOUIS  AND  rOBT  LIAVKNWOBTH,  AMD 
AI.SO  Tmt  MOUTH  OF  THS  TBLLOW  STONl, 
BT  STBAKBOAT. 

To  Gabria  Island 8 

Chonteau's  Island T  10 

Mouth  of  Wood  Biver B  IS 

Missouri  Blver 8  18 

8t  Charies 22  40 

New  Port 46  86 

Pinkney T  1>8 

Month  of  Gasconade  B. 21  114 

Portland 10  184 

Mouth  of  Osage  Blver 21  145 

Jeffxbson  Cmr 0  164 

Marion 16  170 

NashviUe 10  180 

Booheport 14  194 

Boonevillo 10  804 

Arrow  Bock 15  819 

Chariton 16  285 

Mouth  of  Grand  Biver 26  261 

Lexington 60  811 

Blayton 18  889 

FortOsage 18  842 

Liberty 18  860 

Mouth  of  Kansas  Biver 16  875 

^outh  of  Little  Platte  B 12  887 

FOBT  LlAVXNWOBTH 88  425 

Blalto 8  488 

Weston T  485 

Bt  Joseph 16  460 

Fort  Pierre 1010  1460 

Mouiixof  Yellow  Stone 408  1868 


NEBEASKA  TEREITOBY. 


Thk  great  wilderness  tract  of  Nebraska,  from  which  several  new  States  will 
be  formed,  before  ma  ay  of  the  present  years  of  progress  shall  have  gone  by,  lies 
west  of  Missourirlowa  and  Minnesota,  with  British  America  on  the  north,  Kan- 
sas on  the  south,  and  Utah,  Oregon,  and  Washington  territories  on  the  west. 

Very  much  of  this  but  yet  half  explored  territory  is  occupied,^as  are  the 
States  directly  east,  with  high  prairie  land. 


The  Rooky  Moontaiqa  lift  theb 
heads,  the  bravest  in  all  the  land,  on  the 
western  borders  of  Nebraska.  Here  is 
the  grandest  of  all  this  mighty  chain — 
FreemontVPeak,  18,6'70  feet  m  height, 
and  Ijong  Peak  (near  the  south-western 
extremity  of  the  telrritory)  with  an  ele- 
vation of  12,000  feet. 


The  Rocky  Mountains  extend  from 
near  Fort  Webster,  New  Mexico,  in 
latitude  80°  80'  north,  to  the  Polar 
Seas.  With  the  Andes  of  South  Ameri- 
ca they  form  the  longest  mountain  chains 
in  the  world.  The  principal  summits  in 
the  United  States  are  Fremont's  Peak, 
and  Long  Peak,  okeady  mentioned,  and 


300 


27BBBA8KA  TiBB!63T&SCT, 


The  UaaTsisM  Terns— Hantlng  Gnmnda. 


Pike's  Peak,  11,497.  In  British  Ameri- 
ca, Mount  Brown  is  16,000  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  and  Mount  Hooker, 
16,960  feot.  The  general  height  of  the 
chain  is  said  to  vary  from  10,000  to 
16,000  feet. 

Despite  the  grand  altitude  of  this 
vast  chdn,  the  ascent  is  so  gentle  as  at 
some  points  to  be  scarcely  perceptible. 
Among  the  routes  over  the  mountaiiis 
which  have  been  eiplored  by  Col.  Fre- 
mont and  other  bold  adventurers,  the 
most  famous  and  most  used  is  the  cele- 
brated South  Pass.  It  is  by  this  high- 
way that  the  overland  journey  to  the 
Pacific  is  at  present  oftenest  made.  Va- 
rious routes  are  urged  for  the  proposed 
railway  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pa- 
cific, though  which  will  be  ultimately 
chosen,  or  when  the  road  will  be  built, 
it  IS  not  very  basy  to  say.  As  a  sign  of 
the  "  good  time  coming,**  Congress,  last 
winter,  made  provision  for  the  construc- 
tion of  a  wagon  road  across  the  wilder- 
ness. 

The  BSanvalaes  Tezxes  is  the  name 
given  to  a  singular  tract  about  90  miles 
long  and  80  broad,  lying  near  the  head- 
waters of  the  lower  White-Earth  river, 
between  the  Missouri  and  Fort  Laramie. 
The  region  is  sterile,  bearing  only  a 
very  scanty  growth  of  thin  grass.  It 
has  been  thus  graphically  described: 
"From  the  uniform  mountainous  and 
open  prairies,  the  traveller  suddenly  de- 
scends 100  or  200  feet  into  a  valley 
that  looks  as  if  it  had  sunk  away  from 
the  surrounding  world,  leaving  standing 
all  over  it  thousands  of  abrupt,  irregu- 
lar, prismatic  and  columnar  masses,  fre- 
quently capped  with  eccentric  pyramids, 
and  stretching  up  to  a  height  of  100  to 
200  or  more  feet.  So  thickly  ^are  these 
natural  towers  studded  over  this  extra- 
ordinary region,  that  the  traveller 
threads  his  way  through  deep,  confined 
labyrinthine  passages,  not  unlike  the 
narrow,  irregular  streets  and  lanes  of 
some  quaiut  old  town  of  the  European 
continent.  One  might  almost  imagine 
oneself  approaching  some  magnificent 
city  of  the  dead,  where  the  labor  and 
genius  of  forgotten  nations  had  left  be- 
hind them  the  monuments  of  their  art 
and  skiU." 


Hmitliig  Ckonndi.  Nebraska  is 
yet  covered  with  the  hunting  grounds 
of  the  savage.  The  buffalo  roams  over 
the  plains  m  vast  herds,  though  in  a  lit- 
tle while  they  will  be  seen  there  no 
more.  The  grisly  bear,  the  panther, 
the  antelope  and  the  Rocky  Mountain 
goat  invite  the  sportman's  toil.  The 
beaver  and  the  otter  also  abound,  with 
wild-wood  denizens  of  many  other 
names.  "  The  wildest  scenes  to  be  wit- 
nessed in  this  hemisphere,"  ^ays  Mr. 
Webber,*  "are  those  connected  with 
bufiblo  hunting  on  the  great  plains. 
There  is  no  object  in  nature  so  terrible 
as  the  headlong  advance  of  a  great  herd 
of  these  animals  thoroughly  aroused  by 
terror.  Niagaraitself  is  not  more  tre- 
mendously resistless  than  that  black, 
bellowing  torrent  which  is  thus  some- 
times poured  through  narrow  defiles  of 
the  Bocky  Mountain  steppes,  or  which 
is  suddenly  turned  loose  like  a  new 
roaring  flood,  to  overwhelm  the  slant 
and  trembling  plains. 

"  No  sights  equalling  this  are  wit- 
nessed elsewhere  on  the  face  of  the 
earth,  though  South  Africa  exhibits  an 
approximation  in  the  migratory  move- 
ments of  the  springbok  and  other  an- 
telopes. A  herd  of  elephant  bulls  may 
be,  and  is  properly  esteemed  'prodi- 
gious' by  English  adventurers  in  that 
direction,  but  the  Oceanic  masses  in 
which  the  native  bison  of  our  plains  are 
accustomed  to  move,  have  no  parallel 
except  that  in  which  our  people  urge 
and  act  towards  a  '^ven  pomt  of  em- 
pire. 

"  When  we  come  to  think  that  at  a 
rough  estimate,  more  than  70,000  souls 
of  our  native  tribes  upon  the  plains  de- 
pend, the  year  round,  solely  upon  tlie 
slaughter  of  buffalo  for  food,  covering, 
and  in  a  great  measure,  implements, 
and  then  put  this,  together  with  the 
consideration  that  probably  not  more 
than  one  out  of  twenty  of  the  animals 
slain  is  consumed,  beyond  the  mere 
hide  or  hump,  by  these  thriftless  and 
wasteful  people,  some  estimate  may  be 
formed  of  the  aggregate  increase  ne- 

*  "  Bomance  of  Natural  History,  or  Wild 
Scenes  and  Wild  Hunters." 


NEBRASKA  TBBBITOBT. 


891 


Hantlng  Grounds— The  Buffalo. 


ceasary  to  keep  up  a  supply  for  the  de- 1 
mand  in  this  one  quarter. 

"  The  inroads  of  our  own  race  upon 
them,  though  great,  are  as  yet  compar- 
atively insignificant.  We  are  merely 
guided  by  the  utilities,  and  have  slaugh- 
tered them  rather  as  objects  of  neces- 
sary  food,  than  of  commercial  inter- 
change and  profit.  The  wealth  and 
dignity  of  the  Indian  warrior,  on  the 
other  hand,  is  nearly  proportioned  to 
the  number  of  buffalo  robes  he  can  af- 
ford to  dispose  of  to  the  traders,  and 
therefore  this  article  is  to  him  the  rep- 
resentative of  value.  Hence  he  follows 
upon  the  track  of  the  migratory  herd, 
and  when  undisturbed,  continues  to 
slay  them  with  the  sole  and  improvi- 
dent reference  to  the  value  of  the  skins 
at  the  nearest  trading  post ;  while  the 
object  of  food,  amidst  its  reeking  abun- 
dance, is  merely  an  inoidental  one.  As 
it  may  chance,  he  merely  cuts  out  some 
titbit  from  the  individual  slain,  or 
leaves  it,  after  stripping  the  skin,  to  the 
wolves  who  follow  Mthfully  in  the  wake 
of  their  sure  purveyor. 

"  The  extent  to  which  this  reckless 
massacre  is,  and  has  been  habitually 
carried  by  the  prairie  Indians,  can 
hardly  be  computed ;  yet  we  have  the 
strange  and  significant  fact  that  they 
have  among  them  no  tradition  even  of 
an  appreciable  diminution  in  the  num- 
bers of  the  buffalo  thus  wantonly 
slaughtered  by  them  from  remotest 
periods,  which  ante-date  the  first  appear- 
ance of  the  white  man  upon  their  plains 
with  his  sulphurous  and  panic-spread- 
ing engines  of  destruction.  From  this 
ominous  event  the  tribes  date  those 
fatal  refluxes  in  the  stated  periods  and 
courses  of  migration  of  the  herds,  which 
have  been  attended  by  most  disastrous 
famines  among  their  people.  Before 
their  hated  coming,  they  and  their 
fathers  had  been  accustomed  to  calcu- 
late, with  the  same  certainty  with  which 
the  sailor  does  the  ebb  and  flow  of  ocean 
tides,  these  annual  migrations,  and 
could  move  with  or  follow  them  at 
leisure  and  with  confidence  ;  but  sud- 
denly the  mighty  herds  have  snuffed 
some  hidden  danger  on  the  tainted 
breeze,  and  breaking  away  in  mad  and 


scattered  career  over  the  plains,  hare 
defied  pursuit,  to  gather  again  in  some 
remote  and  unaccustomed  pastures  be- 
yond the  reach  of  this  vague,  indefinite 
dread  which  has  met  them  on  the  com- 
ing air. 

"  Thus  all  calculations  for  the  usual 
supply  of  the  seasons  having  been 
thrown  entirely  out,  the  tribes  are  left 
to  struggle  with  the  precarious  chances 
of  again  flndhig  the  buffalo.  They, 
too,  have  been  accustomed  heretofore 
to  watching  the  signs  of  the  seasons, 
and  could  even  scent  a  drought  as  &r 
as  the  grayest  muzzle  of  the  leaders  of 
these  herds,  and  could,  with  unfailing 
sagacity,  foresee  what  variation  from 
the  usual  trad  this  would  cause  with 
them.  But  now  a  new  sign  was  in  the 
heavens,  a  prognostic  of  evil,  which,  as 
it  could  only  be  felt  in  dread  by  their 
savage  souls,  was  now  first  more  nearly 
interpreted  by  the  sure  instincts  of  thehr 
brute  co-occupants  of  these  great  soli- 
tudes, and  in  their  wUd  panics,so  strange- 
ly unaccountable  to  them  at  first,  they 
soon  learned  to  recognize  a  mysterious 
apprehension  of  the  remote  advance  of 
that  destroying  Power,  the  realization 
of  which  has  now,  though  later,  come 
to  them  more  clearly.  The  brute  sense 
proved  surer  than  the  man's  in  this,  as 
in  all  other  instances  in  which  circum- 
stances have  enabled  us  to  measure  its 
actions  and  their  results  in  regard  to 
the  approaches  of  our  race  into  the 
wildernesses  of  earth  with  the  fearful 
appliances  of  civilization.  The  shud- 
der of  approaching  dissolution  has  al- 
ready passed  through  all  those  vast 
herds,  as  well  as  felt  in  the  awed  souls 
of  these  savage  hunters." 

Of  the  many  ways  of  hunting  the  buf- 
falo in  vogue  among  the  Indian  tribes, 
perhaps  the  wildest  and  most  terrible 
is  that  of  driving  the  infuriated  herd 
over  the  edge  of  one  of  the  strange  and 
sudden  chasms  on  the  great  plun  of 
which  we  have  already  spoken,  *'  where 
the  panic-stricken  masses  bound  from 
rough  point  to  point — down — down-^r- 
their  great  bodies  piled  in  a  huge  heca- 
tomb of  blackened,  writhing,  swelter- 
ing slaughter." 

Of  the  method  of  hunting  the  bufiUo, 


\\ 


892 


NEBRASKA  TBRBITOBT. 


Blren  and  Settlements. 


^■ 


known  as  the  '*  Prairie  Surround,"  Mr. 
Webber  gays,"  The  widely  scattered  line 
of  the  Sun'ound,  enclosing  some  valley 
containing  a  herd,  is  rapidly  closed  up  by 
the  yelling  warriors  composing  it,  who 
drive  the  frightened  animals  from  its 
circumference,  ur^ng  towards  a  centre, 
where,  precipitated  in  the  headlong 
crush  upon  each  other,  the  helpless 
mass  sways,  bellowing — ^while,  amidst 
the  dust-clouds  of  their  collision,  the 
forms  of  the  warriors,  who  have  leaped 
from  their  horses  upon  the  backs  of  the 
bu£faloes,  may  be  dimly  seen  treading 
the  horned  tumult  with  fierce  gestures, 
and  wielding  the  long  lance  as  a  rope- 
dancer  does  his  balance-pole,  with  the 
slight  difference,  that  with  nearly  every 
step,  they  thrust  its  sharp  point  down 
through  joint  and  marrow,  between  the 
spine  and  sl^ull  of  some  new  victim, 
whose  shaggy  back  they  have  but 
pressed  in  passing  with  their  moccasined 
feet.  Thousands  are  thus  slaughtered 
in  a  few  moments. 

"  This  scene,  as  weird  and  wild  as  it 
is  real,  tames,  by  contrast,  all  midnight 
phantasmagoria  beneath  the  blaze  of 
noon-tide." 

The  Misaonxl  Blvwr  traverses  the 
entire  territory  of  Nebraska,  rising  at 
its  north-west  extremity,  among  the 
declivities  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  It 
is  in  the  higher  region  that  the  traveller 
will  find  those  wonderful  natural  scenes, 
the  Great  Falls  of  the  Missouri,  and  the 
Gates  of  the  Rocky  Mountains — a  wild 
ravine,  passed  by  the  same  waters. 
See  Missouri  River  for  mention  of  these 
marvels  of  Nebraska. 

The  Yellowstone,  a  river  of  Nebras- 
ka, flows  1,000  miles,  into  the  Missouri. 

The  Platte,  or  N^raaka  River, 
from  which  the  country  is  named,  flows 
for  nearly  1,200  miles  eastward,  through 
the  south  part  of  the  territory. 

On  these,  and  many  other  great  wa- 
ters of  Nebraska,  there  are  many  land- 
scape marvels,  of  which  the  world  has 
not  yet  been  told. 

The  public  interest  in  this  region,  in 
connection  with  the  neighboring  terri- 
tory of  Kansas,  has  been  extraordinarily 
awaked  recently,  by  the  incidents  which 


have  followed  ^more  particularly  in 
Kansas)  the  rival  struggles  of  the  free 
population  of  the  North,  and  the  slave 
States  of  the  South,  to  possess  the  Jand, 
which  the  repeal  of  the  Missouri  Com- 
promise Act  threw  open  to  the  most 
valiant.  For  fVirther  mention  of  this 
history,  see  Kansas,  to  which  region  it 
more  especially  belongs. 

Emigration  is  turning  in  a  swift  cur- 
rent towards  Nebraska ;  and,  since  the 
organization  of  the  country  (in  May, 
1864)  into  a  distinct  territorial  govern- 
ment, flocks  of  settlers  have  bent  their 
adventurous  way  thither;  and  towns 
and  villages  are  growing  up  apace.  A 
newspaper  correspondent  writing,  Janu- 
ary 8th,  1867,  from  Omaha  City,  the 
capital  of  the  Territory,  says — 

"  The  library  association  here  is  be- 
ing entertained  weekly  by  lectures. 
Last  night,  J.  Sterling  Morton,  of  the 
Nebraska  City  News,  lectured  upon 
"  Toung  America."  Next  Wednesday 
night,  B.  P.  Rankin,  Esq.,  United  States 
Marshal  for  this  district,,  lectures  upon 
Nauvoo.  The  lecture-room  is  gen- 
erally well  attended  by  intelligent  audi- 
ences. 

"  The  weather  is  moderating  a  little. 
Board  here  is  from  eight  to  ten  dollars 
per  week,  and  ordinary  at  that.  About 
every  bed  in  town  is  full.  Liquor  is 
constantly  going  down  the  throats  of 
members  (of  the  le^slature)  and  out- 
siders, but  in  this  respect  Omaha  is  not 
so  bad  by  far  as  preceding  winters." 

This  is  Young  Nebraska — a  few  years 
ago  the  home  only  of  savage  tribes. 
Tet  a  few  more  years,  and  it  will  be  Old 
Nebraska,  sendingits  grave  and  rev- 
erend senators  to  Washington. 

Omaha,  the  capital  of  the  Territory, 
is  upon  the  Missouri  River,  opposite 
Council  Bluffii  City.  Bellevue  is  upon 
the  Nebraska,  6  miiles  above  its  mouth. 
Fort  Calhoun  is  18  miles  north  of  Oma> 
ha.  Florence  is  6  miles  north  of  Oma* 
ha.  La  Platte  is  on  the  Missouri,  14 
miles  below  the  CapitaL  Plattsmouth 
is  the  first  town  south  of  the  mouth  of 
the  Nebraska.  Still  farther  south,  and 
along  the  banks  of  the  Missouri,  are 
Bluff  Rock,  Kenosha,  Nebraska  City, 


UTAH  TBBXtrrOBT. 


893 


Oenenl  MenUon. 


Kearney  City,  and  Brownsville ;  north  of 
the  Nebraska,  and  beyond  the  places 
which  we  have  already  mentioned, 
are  De  Soto,  Tekama,  and  Black 
Bird. 

The  chief  interior  settlements  are 
Archer  and  Pawneeville,  upon  affluents 
of  the  Great  Nehama  Saline,  on  the  Big 
Blue  River ;  Magaretta,  near  the  south 
bend  of  the  Nebraska;  Iron  Blufb, 
Elkhorn  City,  Fontenelle,  and  Catha< 
rine,  on  Elkhorn  River;  Pawnee,  on 
Loup  Fork ;  Manitou,  and  Hauton  in  the 
county  north  of  the  Nebraska  River. 

The  population  of  Nebraska,  exclusive 
oT  Indiajns,  approached  6,000,  in  May, 
1864.     »> 

Roataa.  The  best  route  to  Nebras- 
ka, at  present,  is  from  St.  Louis,  by  the 
Hissoiuri  River.  See  St.  Louis,  for  route 
thither  from  the  Atlantic  cities;  and 
see  Kansas,  for  route,  and  table  of 
places  and  distances  ftom  St.  Louis  to 
Fort  Leavenworth. 


In) 

iSt.V.... 


495 


From  8t.  Louit  to  Omaha  (oppoiite 
Council  Bluff)  on  Mittouri  i^tv«r,  fty 
Steamboat. 

To  Fort  Lieavenworth,  u 
Boute  to  Kansas  from 
Louis,  see  Kansas 

Weston 9  484 

St  Joseph 60  494 

Nodaway  Biver 14  M8 

WolfBlver 16  624 

Great  Nemahaw  Blver. 18  54S 

Nishnebotna  Blver 25  667 

LltUe  Nemshaw  Biver 18  679 

Fair  Sun  Island 16  695 

Lower  Oven  Island,. 18  607 

Upper  Oven  Island. 4  611 

Five  Barrel  Island 18  688 

Platte  Blver. 15  6S8 

Bellevne  Trading-honse 18  650 

Omaha— opposite  Oonnoil  Blnff. .  40  690 

There  is  a  route  to  Omaha  City  now 
in  vogue  from  Burlington,  on  the  Mis- 
sissippi (see  Burlington,  Iowa)  81  miles, 
by  mlway,  to  Mount  Pleasant,  Iowa ; 
and  thence  across  by  stages  to  Council 
Bluff  and  Omaha,  on  the  Missouri. 
Ridlway  lines  are  in  course  of  con- 
struction over  thifl  course. 


UTAH  TEERITORT. 

Utah  was  formerly  a  portion  of  Upper  Oalifonua,  ceded  to  the  United  States 
in  1848  by  the  treaty  with  Mexico.  Oregon  lies  upon  the  northern  boundary, 
the  Indian  Territory  and  New  Mexico  on  the  east.  New  Mexico  on  the  south, 
and  Galifomia  on  the  west.  The  extent  of  the  territory  of  Utah  from  east  to 
west  is  about  700  miles,  and  from  north  to  south  847  mues. 

It  is  a  country  of  elevated,  sterile  table-lands,  (Uvided  in  unequal  parts  by  the 
Sierra  Madre  Mountains.  The  Great  Basin,  or  Fremont's  Basin,  as  it  is  other- 
wise called,  extends  over  the  western  part,  600  miles  from  east  to  west,  and  860 
from  north  to  south.  This  vast  tract  Ues  at  an  elevation  of  nearly  6,000  feet 
above  the  sea.  Some  portion  of  it  is  covered  by  a  yieldmg  mass,  composed  of 
sand,  salt  and  clay,  and  others  with  a  crust  of  alkaline  and  saline  substance. 
Great  hills  surround  it  on  all  sides,  and  detached  groups  cross  its  whole  area. 
Near  the  centre  it  is  traversed  by  the  Humbolt  Itiver  Mountdns,  which  rise 
from  6,000  to  7,000  feet  above  the  acyaoent  country.  There  are  other  great 
vaJley  stretches  in  Utah,  more  sterile  even  than  the  Great  Basin,  as  that  lying 
between  the  Rocky  and  the  Wahsatoh  Mountains.  Only  a  small  portion  of  this 
wide  re^on  can  be  turned  to  account  in  agricultural  uses.  The  little  fertile  land 
it  possesses,  is  that  which  skirts  the  streams  and  narrow  tracts  at  the  base  of  the 
mountain  ranges.  The  most  productive  portion  is  that  probably  of  the  valleys 
extending  north  and  south,  west  of  the  Wahsatch  Mountains,  and  which  is  oc- 
cupied by  the  Mormon  settlements. 


TIm  OUmato  of  Utah  is  sud  to  re> 

semble  that  ofthe  great  Tartar  pUdns 
of  Asia,  the  days  in  summer  time  being 
17* 


excee^ngly  hot  and  the  nights  cool. 
The  winters  are  mild,  and  but  littie  ac- 
companied with  snow.    The  tempera- 


894 


UTAH  ISBBTTOBT. 


NatnnI  Wondei»— 8«ttl«mMito— The  Monnoiu. 


ture  is  liable  to  great  and  quick  transi- 
tiona  from  tl^e  changing  ourrenta  of  the 
winds. 

Th«  CkrMt  Salt  Zialn  is  perhaps  the 
most  remarlcable  of  all  the  many  natu- 
ral wonders  of  these  rude  and  desolate 
wilds.  This  singular  body  of  water  lies 
north-east  of  the  centre  of  the  territory. 
It  is  some  70  miles  long  and  80  wide. 
It  is  so  highly  impregnated  with  salt, 
that  too  life  is  found  in  it,  and  a  thick 
saline  incrustation  is  deposited  upon  its 
banks  by  evaporation  in  hot  weather ; 
and  yet  all  its  tributary  waters  are  treBh. 
In  some  of  its  features,  as  in  the  wild 
and  weird  aspect  of  much  of  the  sur- 
rounding scenery,  it  has  been  compared 
to  the  Dead  Sea  of  Palestine. 

Utah  Lake  is  a  body  of  fresh  water 
some  86  miles  in  leneth.  It  lies  south 
of  the  Oreat  Salt  Lake,  to  which  it  is 
tributary,  by  the  channel  of  the  con- 
necting river  called  the  Jordan.  Like 
its  saline  neighbor,  the  Utah  lake  is 
elevated  about  460  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  It  is  abundantly  supplied 
with  fine  trout  and  other  fish. 

Tlie  Pyramid  Lake  lies  on  the  slope 
of  the  Sierra  Nevada  MounttUns,  700 
feet  yet  above  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  It 
is  enclosed  everv  where  by  giant  rocky 
precipices,  which  rise  vertically  to  the 
sublime  height  of  8,000  feet.  From  the 
bosom  of  the  translucent  waters  of  this 
wonderful  lake,  there  springs  a  strangiB 
pyramidal  rock  600  feet  in  air. 

In  the  interior  of  the  territory  there 
are  other  smaller  ponds,  as  Nicollet 
Lake,  near  the  centre,  and  70  miles  yet 
southward,  Lake  Asbley.  Mud,  Pyra- 
mid, Walker^s  and.  Carson's  Lakes  are 
near  the  eastern  base  of  the  Sierra  Ne- 
vada Mountains;'  Hulnbolt's  Lake, 
formed  by  the  waters  of  the  Humbolt 
river,  is  about  60  miles  east  of  Pyramid 
Lake. 

The  Boiling  Springs  is  a  scene  of 
curious  interest.  The  principal  basin 
is  described  by  Col.  Fremont  as  having 
a  circumference  of  several  hundred 
feet,  with  a  circular  space  at  one  ex- 
tremity 46  feet  in  circuit,  filled  with 
boiling  water.  The  temperature  near 
the  edge  was  found  to  be  206°. 


Oanona.  Near  Brown's  Hole,  in  the 
vicinity  of  Oroen  River,  there  aremany 
of  those  singular  ravines  of  the  Great 
West,  known  as  Cafions.  They  are 
sudden  deprcsuions  in  the  surface  of  the 
earth,  sometimes  of  a  vertical  depth  ot 
1,600  feet.  Nothing  can  be  more  sur* 
prising  and  more  grand  than  the  pic- 
tures presented  in  these  strange  pas- 
sages ;  the  effect,  too,  is  always  height- 
ened bv  the  unexpected  manner  in 
which  the  traveller  comes  «pon  them, 
as  no  previous  intimation  b  dforded  by 
the  topography  of  the  land,  of  their 
proximity. 

Utah  is  famous  as  the  home  of  the 
Mormons.  This  extraordinaiy  people 
pitched  their  tents  here  in  1847,  ailer 
they  were  driven  out  of  Illinois  and 
llissouri.  They  are  the  sole  occupants 
of  the  region,  excepting  the  native  In- 
dian tribes.  They  seem  to  be  a  pros- 
perous and  inoreaidng  community ;  for 
an  enumeration  of  their  numbers  made 
in  1868,  exhibits  a  population  of  over 
1 8,000,  exclusive  of  the  Indians.  Since 
then  great  accessions  have  been  made, 
and  new  settlers  are  daily  wending  their 
way  thither  from  all  quarters  of  the 
world. 

The  chief  town  of  Utah  is  Chreat 
Salt  Lake  Oity,  on  the  shores  of  its 
strange  namesake  waters.  The  popu- 
lation here  is  perhaps  12,000  or  14,000. 
A.  magnificent  temple  is  to  be  erected 
fbr  the  celebration  of  the  rites  of  the 
Mormon  worsUp. 

Besides  Salt  Lake  C^ty,  the  other 
prii^cipal  settlements  ai'e  Brownsville, 
Prove,  Ogden,  Manti  and  Fillmore  cities 
and  Parovan. 

Fillmore  Oitr  is  the  capital  cf  the 
territory.  It  is  situated  oiUhe  Nuquin, 
a  branch  of  the  Nicollet  river.  It  is 
1,200  miles  west  of  St.  Louis,  and 
600  miles  east  by  north  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. 

Brownsville  is  on  the  east  side  of 
the  Great  Salt  Lake. 

Ptovo  Oitir  is  about  60  miles  south- 
south-east  of  »alt  Lake  City. 

Ogden  Oity  is  186  miles  north  of 
Fillmore  City,  the  capital  of  the  terri- 
tory. 


TBRBTTOBT  OV  NSW  MEXICO. 


805 


Ph]rtlMl  OlutfMtcr— €«ttlements. 


BSantl  is  40  milea  east-oouth-eoflt  of 
the  capital. 

PwrovMi  is  110  miles  south-south- 
west of  Fillmore  City. 

Utah  will  no  doubt  soon  seek  admis- 
sion into  the  Union  as  a  State,  and  then 
will  come  under  particular  and  univer- 


sal consideration  the  institution  of 
Polygamy,  by  the  assertion  and  prao» 
tice  of  which  as  a  religious  and  politi* 
cal  tenet,  the  people  are  more  especiidly 
distinguished  fh>m  those  of  all  other 
parts  of  the  Republic. 


TEERITOEY  OF  NEW  MEXICO. 

Niw  Mexico  is  a  portion  of  the  territory  ceded  to  the  United  States  by  the 
treaty  with  Mexico,  of  1848  and  of  1804.  It  is  760  miles  in  extent,  from  east  to 
west,  and  4*70  from  north  to  south.  On  its  upper  boundary  lie  Kansas  and  Utah ; 
on  the  east,  Kansas  and  the  Indian  Territory ;  on  the  south,  Texas  and  Mexico ; 
and  on  the  west,  Oalifomla. 

Like  the  adjacent  country,  it  is  a  region  of  high  table-lands,  crossed  by  moun- 
tain ranges,  and  barren  to  the  last  degree. 

In  the  eastern  part  of  this  Territory  are  the  valleys  of  the  Rio  Grande  and  its 
tributary  waters,  skirting  the  base  of  various  chains  of  the  Rocky  Mountdns ; 
as  the  Sierra  Madre  range,  the  Jumanes  and  the  Del  Gabello.  Mount  Taylor,  among 
the  fflerra  Madre,  is  said  to  rise  10,000  feet  above  the  valley  of  the  iUo  Qrande, 
which  is  itself  a  table-land  of  many  thousand  feet  elevation. 

Valuable  mineral  deposits  exist  in  New  Mexico— gold,  silver,  and  other  metals 
— though  the  resources  of  the  mines  have  not  yet  been  very  much  developed. 

New  Mexico  is  full  of  wonderful  natural  curiosities  and  beauties,  though  but  a 
few  of  its  many  surprising  scenes  have  been  yet  explored.  Immense  canons  exist 
among  the  mountains  of  the  Sierra  Nevada ;  deep  ravines,  where  rivers  flow  in 
darkness  hundreds  of  feet  down,  below  the  surface  of  the  valleys.  Red  and  white 
sandstone  bluffis,  too,  abound ;  grand  and  lofty  perpendicular  pre^pices  of  rocks, 
wearing  every  varying  semblance  of  cliff-lodged  castle  and  fortress. 


)  miles  south- 


Waterfalls  of  surprising  beauty  are 
scattered  through  the  mountain  fast- 
nesseft  The  Gasoade  Grotto  is  described 
as  a  series  of  falls,  which,  coming  from 
a  mineral  spring  in  the  hills,  leap  from 
cliff  to  cliff,  a  thousand  feet  down  to  the 
Gila  below.  A  wonderful  cavern,  in 
which  are  some  curious  petrifactions, 
may  be  entered  beneath  the  first  of 
these  cascades. 

Two  marvellous  falls  have  been  dis- 
covered in  the  Rio  Yirgen,  one  of 
which,  200  miles  from  its  mouth,  has 
a  perpendicular  descent  of  1,000  feet. 

The  present  inhabitants  of  New 
Mexico  consist  chiefly  of  domesticated 
nomad  Indians,  with  a  sprinkling  of 
Mexicans  and  Americans.  Emigration 
from  the  States  has  not  yet  turned 
much  in  this  direction. 


The  chief  towns  are  Santa  T6,  with  a 
population  of  about  6,000,  La  Guesta, 
St.  Miguel,  Las  Yejas,  Zuni,  and  Tuck- 

Santa  Fe  is  the  capital  of  th«  Terri- 
tory. It  is  situated  on  the  Rio  Chicito, 
or  the  Santa  F6  River,  20  miles  from  its 
entrance  into  the  Rio  Grande.  It  is  the 
great  d6pdt  of  the  overland  trade,  which 
has  been  carried  on  for  SO  or  40  years 
past  with  Missouri.  The  town  is  built 
on  a  plateau  elevated  7,000  feet  above 
the  sea,  and  surrounded  by  snow-capped 
mountains,  6,000  feet  yet  higher.  The 
people  are  but  a  miserable  set,  and 
their  home  recommends  itself  to  the 
stranger  scarcely  more  than  they  do 
themselves.  The  houses  here,  as  else- 
where in  the  region,  are  built  of  dark 
adobes  or  unfllrnt  bricks.    Each  build- 


896 


INDIAN  TBBBITOBT. 


Bonteb  to  New  McfKio»— OlumMter  of  the  Indian  Tenitoiy. 


Iiig  nsoaliy  fonns  a  square,  in  the  in- 
terior of  wUch  is  a  court,  upon  which 
all  the  apartments  open.  The  only 
entrance  Is  made  of  sufficient  size  to 
admit  animals  with  theur  burdens. 

Boute  frwta  Indqaendenee  Oity^  in 

Miawwrif  to  Bamta  FS. 

ioiM.Agr. 
From  Independence  Ctty,  in  Mtasoori, )  <m 
to  the  Kansas  Boondary  ) 

lK>neSlm 7   89 

BoondGroTO 6   86 

The  Narrows 80    65 

BlackJaok 8   68 

One-hnndred  and-ten-mile  Greek.  8S  100 

8wltder*8  Greek 9  100 

DiagoonGreek 6  114 

Several  creeks  are  then  crossed, 

after  which 

Big  John  Spring 84148 

OouudlGrove 1149 

Kaw  Village    and  Plaeeto,    In )  ■•  ■••<« 

Oonnoll  Grove  J-  i  loo 

Svlvan  Gamp,  in  Gonnoil  Grove. .    3  168 

Willow  Springs 6  168 

Diamond  SprUig 18  171 

Lost  Spring...... 16  187 

Cottonwood  Fork  of  Grand  Biver.  18  199 

TorkevOrrak.... 89  388 

Mnd  Greek 19  847 

Little  Arkansas.. ^ 8  350 

Cow  Greek 80  870 


FromPlnmBnttes 

Great  Bend  of  the  Arkansas 

The  trail  then  ascends  the  north- 
ern bank  of  the  Arkaosaa  Biver 
for  If)  milea 

Walnnt  Greek 

Pawnee  Bock 

Ash  Greek 

Pawnee  Fork  of  the  Arkansas. .... 

Goon  Greek 

Gachte 

Old  Fort  Mann 

Fort  Sumner 

Ford  of  the  Arkansas ,.<.,. 

Jomado  to  Sand  Greek 

Lower  Spring,  on  the  Ginuwron. . . 
Middle  rorlng,  on  the  Cimarron.. 

Willow  Btr 

Upper  Spring,  on  the  Cimarron . . . 

Com  Spnogs 

McNees*  Greek 

Babbit-ear 

Bound  Mound '..... 

Bock  Greek ,.... 

Point  of  Bocks 

Bio  Colorado 

Ooatd 

Wagon  Mound 

Santa  Clara  Sprin« 

Fort  Barclay  on  mo  Hon 

Los  Tegas,  on  Bio  Gallinas 

NaturalGate .' 

OJo  de  Bemal .' . 

San  Miguel 

Pecos  Bsins 

SantaFi 


14  884 

8886 


7898 

14  807 

6  818 

6  819 
88  86S 

86  888 
14  409 

4406 
10  416 
49  466 
114T6 

87  518 

88  648 

17  660 
6666 

86  598 

19  611 

8  619 

18  688 
17  649 
80  669 

7  676 

19  695 
8607 

88  719 

19  788 

6  744 

11766 

8  768 
86  787 
86  818 


INDIAN  TERRITOEY. 

The  Indian  Territory  is  a  portion  of  the  wilderness  beyond  the  IGssissippi, 
which  has  been  set  apart  as  a  permanent  abode  for  the  Indian  tribes.  It  is 
about  450  miles  long,  and  from  86  to  240  miles  hi  width.  The  territory  of 
Kansas  lies  upon  the  north  of  this  tract,  Arkansas  on  the  east,  Texas  tfh  the 
south,  and  New  Mexico  and  Texas  on  the  west. 

In  the  north-western  portion  of  the  Indian  Territory  are  the  vast  sandy,  barren 
lands,  Imown  as  the  Oreat  American  Desert.  Excepting  this  desolate  re^on, 
the  country  is  occupied  by  undulating  plains  and  prairies,  broken  on  the  east 
by  the  mountain  ridges,  called  the  Osark  or  Washita,  which  come  in  from 
ijrkansas. 

The  Ohoctaws,  the  Ghickasaws,  the  Oherokees,  the  Greeks,  the  Seneoas,  the 
Seminoles,  and  the  Shawnees  dwell  in  the  east ;  while  the  central  and  western 
districts  are  occupied  by  the  Camanches,  the  Osages,  the  Pawnees,  the  Eioways, 
the  Arrapahoes,  and  other  tribes.  The  country  is,  beudes,  thickly  inhabited  by 
bidfiJoes,  wild  horses,  antelopes,  deer,  prairie^iogs,  and  wild  animals  and  wild 
birds  of  many  names.  Kansas  and  Nebraska  were  included  in  the  Indian  Terri- 
tory until  1864. 


CONTEKTS. 
> 

rAOm 
iHTBODironoir.     Some  parting  words,  to  the  Trareller,  of  Explanation  and 

AdTice,  . .       ...    6 

The  Plan  of  this  Bo6k, 6 

General  Bemarics,                   .       .       .       . 6 

Honey,          .          .          ......(....  1 

Baggage,           .            .....       .       .       .•     .  1 

XiOKOtSy        •            •           •-•9)             ••••■•  8 

Hotels,               .          .       •.       .       .•      .       .       .       ...       .  8 

Servants,       .           .        .       .       .       .       .       ;       .       .       .       .  8 

Costome,             .        .        .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .  '  8 

Where  to  Go,           .         .       .       . 9 

AmniOAiT  Fmhiko  ahp  Fnuj)  Sfowb.    Where  the  Hunter  and  the  Anj^er  should 

seekhisGame, .       .       .       ;  11 

SnuTOK  Touis.    From  New  York  to  yarioos  parts  of  the  United  States  and 
Canadar— oocupying  one,  two,  three,  four,  five  or  six  weeks,       .       .       .18 

Tn  TBAvaLLBs's  Alkakao^ S8 


BRITISH  AMERICA. 

Cakada.  Visit  to  Qaebec,  Montreal  and  other  cities,  tmr  up  the  Sagnenaj> 
the  Ottawa  and  the  Si  Lawrence  BiTers :  Falls  of  Montmorend  and  the 
Ohaudiere ;  Watering  Places ;  Exoorsion  to  the  great  Lakes ;  the  Straits  of 
Mackinac;  the  Saaltde St.  Marie,  ete., 95 


■\ 


30^  1^^^  CX>IITBM1H.  « 

Hiiw  BBuinwiOKt  *^^^^^^h     •      •      •     tf 

Voyx  SoofttAf  ,^  ■   : '^^^B'  *      V     "      ^ 

THE  UNITED  STATES. 
MAnn.    Its  Monntalns,  Lakes,  Forests,  RiTen  and  Cities,       .  61 

ILuMAcmiBww.     Boston  and  other  Oities;  Cape  Cod  and  the  Sea  Islands; 

ToorthronghtheYalleTsoftheConneetioatandtheHoasatonic,  etc.,  60 

Ibroos  IsLAXD^    Providence  and  Newport;  the  Narragansett  Bay,  etc.,        .        88 

ComracnouT,  .       .       .       .       .       .       . 80 

TStMwEAMnmta.    Tour  to  the  White  Mountains;  Bootes  thither,  etc.,    .  88 

Ybbii OMT.   The  Qreen  Moontains ;  the  Yalley  of  the  Winooski ;  Lakes,  Cities,  etc.   101 
Niw  YoBK.    New  York  and  other  Cities ;  Saratoga  and  other  Watering  Places ; 
Lakes  George,  Champlain,  the  Saranaos,  etc. ;  the  Hudson  Birer ;  the  Cats- 
kill  and  Adirofadaok  Mountains;  Niagara  and  Trenton  Falls;  the  Scenery  of 
the  Erie  BaitwayBonte,  eta,         .       .       .       .       .       .       .  .105 

ISfmwJmaamT.    Sohooley's  Mountain;  Qreenwood  and  Bndd's  Lake;  Cape  May; 

Long  Branch,  etc, *       .       .       .     .    '  .        178 

Dblawabb.    Cities  and  Scenes, .179 

FaxKBThrAxtA,    Philadelphia  and  other  Oities ;  the  Pennsylrania  BaUway ;  the 
Susquehanna^  Delaware,  Juniata,  Lehigh,  and  other  BiTcrs;  the  Yalley 
of  Wyoming ;  the  Coal  Begion,  etc.,  .......     181 

Mabtlaxd.    Baltimore  and  other  towns;  the  Chesapeake  Bay  and  its  Wild 

Fowl ;  the  Eastern  Shore ;  the  Scenery  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Bailway,   198 
DvraiOT  or  Colchbia.    Washington  ^City  and  the  National  Edifices ;  George- 
town; Mount  Yemon;  Potomac  Birer,  etc.,        .       .       ...       .   2U 

YiBonoA.  The  Spring  Begion ;  Weir's  Cave ;  the  Natural  Bridge;  the  Peaks 
of  Otter,  and  other  natural  marvels  and  beauties ;  the  James  and  other  Bir- 
ers;  Scenes  and  Places  of  Historic  and  Poetic  Association ;  Bichmondand 

other  Cities;  Bailways, .218 

VoBTH  CABOLnrA.    The  French  Broad  Birer  and  the  Scenery  of  the  Mountain 
Begicm;  Baleigh  and  other  Cities;  Bailways,       .       .       .       .       .       .   24S 

SoOTK  CAaoLnrA.    Charleston,  Columbia  and  other  Cities ;  the  Sea-board  and 
Lowlands;  the  Slave  Population ;  the  Mountain  YiUages ;  Landscape  and 
.   Battte  Fields  ;Baawayi,      . .247 


itf^SiJKakilii. 


■""' *  ■; 


.1 


co: 


899 


ThjOTUDA.    8t.  Angnstine  and  oiher  Inyalid  BeaortB ;  TallahaisM  ]  ihf  St  John's 
Bireiv  eto.^  ■      .        .....       .       ,'      .       .       .       J     ;«4 

Oborgia.    SaraanahfAagasts,  and  other  Cities;  the  ElaraimihBirer;  the  Chat- 
,  tahooohee  and  the  Legend  of  the  Lorer's  Le^p* ;  the  Falls  of  TaUulah  and       IJF" 
Tocooa ;  the  Yallej  of  Naoonohee  and  the  Honntain  Landsoape ;  BailwaTs,    870  ' 
AtABAKA.    Mobile  and  other  Places ;  Incidents  of  TrsTel  on  the  AlabamaBiTer ; 
Routes,  etc,        .       .       .       *,      •    •       •       >       .       .       .      ..       .285 

Moeiaaippt.    Cities ;  Scenes ;  Rirers ;  Routes, 891 

LoOTStAXA.    New  Orieans,  and  other  Cities  and  Scenes,       .       .       .       .       .898 

Thb  MnsoBiPn  RiTBB  AND  Yaixit,  .       ...       .       .       .       .       803 

Thb  Ohio  Rnm  and  Yaixst,        .       .       .       .  .       .       .       .       .    805 

Tbxas.    Its  Scenery;  Rirers;  Towns;  Routes;  Wild  Animals,  etc.,     .       .       807 

Arkansas, 811 

Tunnossna,.        ,       .    .  .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .814 

KmrruoKT.  The>'i•^r  a  kye;  Lonisrille,  etc;  Riulways  and  Routes,  .  817 
Ohio.  Cincinnati,  anu  other  Cities  and  Scenes ;  Railways,  .  .  .887 
Indiaita.  Cities ;  Rivers ;  Scenes  and  Routes,  .  .  «...  885 
Ilukois.    Cities;  Rirers;  Routes  and  Prairies,       .       .       .       .       .       .888 

HiomoAK.    Detroit  and  other  Cities;  Routes,  etc, 864 

Mnsorai.    St.  Louis,  etc ;  the  Missouri  Hirer  and  Scenery,      ....    847 

Iowa, 868 

WnKxnnuir.    Cities ;  Scenery,  and  Routes,    .     .      .      .      .       .      .       .    865 

MnnnBOTA  Tibbitost.    Settiements ;  Scenery,  and  Routes,     ....       868 

CAuroBNiA.    Voyage  from  New  York  to  San  Francisco,  crossing  the  Isthmus ; 
Yisits  to  the  Mining  Regions  and  the  Settiemwats  in  the  Interior ;  Yints  up 
and  down  the  Coasts;  the  Sacramento  Yalley;  the  Sierra  Nerada  Moun- 
tains ;  San  Francisco  and  other  Cities ;  Routes  throughout  the  State,  etc,   865 
Obiook  TsBsnoBT.    Mountains;  Yalleys; Rirers;  Settiements;  Routes, etc.,    888^ 

WASHmoTON  TiBBiTOBT.    Sccuery  and  Settiements, 886 

Kansas  Tbbbitobt.    Routes;  Settiements, etc 888 

NsBBASKA  Tbbbitobt.  The  Rook7  Mountains ;  Hunting  Grounds ;  Settiements ; 

Routes,  etc,        .        .        ; 889 

Utah  Tbbbi'tobt.    TheOreat  Salt  Lake;  Salt  Lake  City;  Natural  Scenery; 
Routes  to  and  fro,  etc.,        ..;.*.....       898 


>-v?Si 


400 


OOK'l'MS'llL 


JSmw  Mbzioo  TiBE«TOKr.    Oily  ei  Santo  "Ft ;  Bontes,  etc., 

Intux  TnuuTOBT, 

QmaauhlMfaatt 

Lur  or  lUn, . 

Lm  or  iLLvwninoBm,                 ,      ... 
TmkrwLuu!*  VmuMkaDvu,  


895 
89« 
405 
401 
408 
416 


LIST   OP   MAPS. 


rAsa 
Jittp  of  the  Eastern  itncl  Middle  Ststes,  &o.,  and  the  British  Prorinoes,  showing 

the  connection  of  the  Routes, 1 

Falls  of  Niagara, 1 

Land  and  Water  Bontesfrom  Cleveland  to  Detroit' and  Chicago,         .       .       .1 
County  Map  of  the  Southern  New  England  States,  ithowing  the  Bailroads,  and 

their  connection  with  the  Cities  of  New  York,  Boston,  Albany,  Ac,         .  6S  ' 

Fall  BiTor,  and  Taunton  and  New  Bedford  Bailroads,  Ac,  .              .       .       .  61 

Old  Colony  Bailroad,  and  a  portion  of  the  Fall  Biver  Boute  jQrom  Boston,  Ac,  81  < 
New  Haren,  Hartford,  and  Springfield  Bailroad ;  also  the  Canal  Bailroad,  and 

part  of  the  Housatonic  Bailroad, 61 

ProTidence«ndStonington  Bailroads,  Norwich  and  Worcestei*,  Ac,          .       .  61 
Flan  of  Boston,  with  parts  of  East  and  South  Boston ;  also  portions  of  Charles- 
town,  Cambridge,  Ac,;       ".  68  • 

Boston  and  Fitchburg,  and  Worcester  Boutes,  Ac, 71  , 

Western  Bailroad  to  Springfield,  Ac, 71 . 

Western  Bailroad  to  Albany,  and  a  poirtion  of  the  Housatonic  Bailroad ;  with 

the  Connecticut  Biver  and  the  Hudson  and  Berkshire  Bailroads,         .       .  71  ' 

OreatTraTelling  Boutes  north  of  Boston,  Ac, 89. 

Bootes  to  the  White  Mountains  and  Winnipiseogee  Lake,  showing''also  the  At* 

lantio  and  St.  Lawrence  Baihroad,  Ac,          89  • 

This  map  shows  the  Bailroads  diverging  firom  Concord,  N.  H.,  with  the  Cheshire 
and  Snlliran  Bailroads,  and  a  portion  of  the  Butiand  Bailroad :  also  the 

Yermont  and  Massachusetts  Bailroad,  Ac,  Ac, 91 . 

Cities  of  New  York  and  Brooklyn,  WilliaQi»wurgh,  Jersey  City,  and  Hoboken,  107  • 
Hudson  Birer  Bailroad ;  Harlem  Bailroad;  and  the  New  York  and  Erie,  firom 

New  Yoric  to  Otisville,  Ac, .119 

New  York  and  Erie  Bailroad  to  Binghamton,  Ac ;  Ithaca  and  Owego  Bail- 
road Ac, 187  • 

Routes  to  Saratoga  Springs,  and  a  portion  of  the  Boutes  to  Buffalo,  Ac,    .       .148 

ContinuationofBoutesfrom  Albany  to  Buffalo,  Ac, 148 

Erie  Canal  and  JUdlroad  firom  Syracuse  to  Bochester,  and  BaUroad  and  Canal 

fix>m  Syracuse  to  Oswego, 148 

Boutes  firom  Bochester  to  BuffUo  and  Niagara  Falls,  Ac 148' 

Lake  Champlain,  and  Bailroads  firom  Connecticut  Birer  to  Montreal;  the  Yer- 
mont Central,  and  the  Oonneoticnt  and  Passumpsic  Bivers  BaUroad,  Ac,   .  168 


403 


UBS  OF  MAPS. 


limg  Xdaad,  Long  Idiuid  lUilroad,  Long  IsUnd  Sdnnd,  and  New  York  and  New 

Haren  l^ailnNid,  Ac i,       .       .   I7s\. 

New  York  and  Erie  Railroad,  from  the  Hudaon  to  the  Delaware  Rirer,  i^^f 

Gxeat  trardling  Bontea  between  New  York  and  Philadelphia,  with  other  routes 

in  New  Jerae^ ;  also,  the  Baihroada  direrging  from  Philadelphia,  .    175  - 

Plan  oftheOi^  of  Philadelphia, .       .  iss^ 

Qontinuation  of  Routes  from  Philaddphia  to  Baltimore  and  Waahington,  and  to 

Harriabuig,  Ac. ;  also  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Baihoad,       .       .  .   191  > 

Termination  of  Routes  from  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore  to  Pittsburg  and 

Wheeling ;  also  to  the  Yirginia  Springs,  Ao.,    ...*      -       •  •      191" 

The  Southern  and  Western  States,       .       .       .       .    '*;       .       .       .       .198" 

Plan  of  Baltimore^      .       .       .       « .  .       .       .       .    '.       .       .       199> 

PlanofChariestott,  S.  0., ?   X*       '       *       *       •249- 

Plan  of  New, Orleans        .       4       .       .       .       •  !  -•       •       •       •       .      296- 
The  Mi8sisdppiBiTer,fimm  Memphis  to  the  Oulf  of  Hezioo,       ,       .     ,.       .80S, 
The  Mississippi,  team  the  Palls  of  SK  Anthony  to  St.  Louis,    .       .       .       .       808  - 
The  Ohio  Birer,  from  Pittsburg  io<itixo,     .       .       *       .       .       .       .       .   805  n 
The  Missouri  River,  from  Fort  Leavenworth  to  its  Month,     .       .        .       .      805  '^ 

The  Western  Stf^tes,      .       .       .       ... 815  - 

The  North-western  States;  Lake  Superior,  &«.,       .       .       .       *       .       .827- 
PlanofCSineinnatiandYieinity,  »       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .829- 


udNew 

•             • 
• 

sr  routes 

•             • 

176- 

•             • 

188' 

1,  and  to 

•       • 

m- 

ir^  and 

•               • 

191' 

•              • 

198" 

•              • 

19»> 

•              • 

249- 

•               • 

295. 

1  ,  •              • 

808, 

•              • 

808- 

•              • 

805 -v 

•              • 

806  "^ 

•              • 

816' 

•              • 

827- 

iisT  OF  illustrations: 


1  UonUi 9t*fh»  SagaeiuyBiTflr, Ouutd*,. ..^.:.... 80  - 

1  MontNtl, OHuda, ..., ., 88  » 

&  Cathodnl  St  Montreal^ ..^..^ ..;.. 84  . 

4  The  Oitadal Mt Qnebeo, 84  « 

&  Th«  Foils  of  Montmoitnoi,  Caiiad*, .......'......... 88  - 

41  Kingston, Osnsds WMt, — 40  ^ 

T.  A Tiew of  •  part «r  Lske  Snperior,..,. ,.,,,,,.,,.,.... 4B  - 

S.  BedBandstitnsBIailbiLsksBaperlor,... 48  - 

9.  Island  of  Onnd  Maoim,  Bay  of  Foady, ..'....  47  - 

10.  Halifluc, HoT» Bootla, /....:  51  -. 

11.  MonntKatahdin,Maine,... .....,,.,..... .....4.. ..i. k.  6B 

U.  HonntDiesert bland, Maine........  , ...i 08 

18.  Portland,  Maine, .'.....■ 60 

14  State  Howie  Mid  Tale  College,  New  Haven,  Ct,,, 88 

15k  The  United  States  Arsenal,  at  Springfield,  Mass., ^....„.  .84 

14  Boston Comnfton, Boston, Mass., ........;  .88 

IT.  Faneull  HaU, Boston,  Mass., .......,...•••:•..'•....• 8T 

18.  Banker  mu  Monument,  Boston,  MsBS.,..; 60 

19.  Monnt  Tpte, Mass., .« 70 

M.  Monnt Chesteifleld, N. H. 78 

n.  Monnment  Monntain,  Mass., .,..,....,..,.,.,,..... , 88  ' 

SS.  Mount  Hope»  B.  !•• .••• 8B 

98.  Fort DompHngs, Kewport,  B.  L, ,.....,,.,..,..,....,.., ,  86 

94  Old  Stone  Mid,  Newport,  B.L, ......,.,,,.,.,, i., 8T 

94  Blaff  near  Purgatory,  Newport,  B.  L,.... .......*.....,. 87 

94  Conoordi N.  H,,. , 91 

97.  LakeWinnipiaeogee,N. H...... ., , 9S 

98.  Mount  Washington,  N.  H., ; i 95 

99.  Profile  Lake,  White  Mountains,  N.  H.,.. .........^,... 100 

80.  Falls  In  the  WinooskiBlyer,yermont,..,...... 109 

81.  Burlington,  Vermont^ , 106 

84  Fnlon  Square,  New  York  City, llO 

84  Free  Academy,  New  York  City, • US 

84  Long  Branch,  N.  J., 118 

84  Brooklyn,  L.  L, 118 

84  The  PsBlades  on  the  Hudson, 181 

87.  AYlewonthe  Hudson  Biver, 186 

84  The  Oi^ikmds,  Cornwall  Landing,  N.  Y., 181 

89.  The  Capitol,  Albany,  N.Y., 186 

40.  The Delamre  Blver— Erie  Ballway, 189 

41.  The  Cascade  Bridge,  Erie  BaUway, 140 

44  The  Oatskin  Mountain  House,  N.  Y.,. 144 

44  Lakes  on^the  CatsklUs,  N.  Y., 146 

44  Congrefls  Spring,  Saratoga, 100 

45.  Lake  George,  N.Y., ....;... 151 

44Lak«Champlain,N.Y.,, 104 


404 


UST  OV  nXUSTRATIOSB. 


47.  Trenton  Fftllfl,  N.  T.,. .' ;. im 

4a.  Soene  St  TNnton  Tails,  N.  T., ;y 168 

40.  Klsgsn  ]^sUs— the  Bi^lds, 10) 

00.  NIsfknFsUsfromtlieOUftonHonsejOsnsds, IM 

6L  Lower  8srsnscl«ke,  N.  T., 168 

08.  Lske  Henderson  in  the  Adlrondsoks,  N.  T., ito 

08.  Newsrfc,N.  J., 175 

04.  The  Psaialo  Fslls,  N.  J., 17T 

00.  Greenwood Lske, N.  J., ITS 

06.  The  Btste  Honae,  or  Independence  Hsll,  Philsdelphls, iss 

07.  Fslrmonnt 'Wster«Worka,  FhllsdelphlA, '. 188 

06.  Yallej  Forge,  PennaylTsids,. ; 189 

09.  Pittsburg,  PennsylTsnis, 191 

60.  The  Jnnlsts,  PennqrlTsnls, 193 

61.  The  Bnaqaehanns,  Pennsylvsnis, 195 

6S.  Meohsnics*  Instttnte,  Bsltimore,. 200 

68.  Th4 President's Honae^ Washington,... 916 

61  Harper's  Ferry,  Virginia, .  284 

60.  Patrick  Henry  beibre  the  House  of  Burgesses, 828 

66L  The  Natural  Bridge,  Yiiginia,. 2tlT 

67.  Seene  in  the  ipine  Bidge,  N.  Cf 24< 

6S.  The  French  Broad  BiTcr,  N.  0., 84T 

69.  Magnolia  Cemetery,  Oha(Ieston,B.  0., 251 

TO.  Swamp  Scene,  8.  d, 254 

7L  TableMonntain,8.  0.,... 859 

79l  The  Keowee  Blyer,  8.  0.,. i 281 

78.  The  Savannah  Birer,  Ctoorgia, 271 

74  Savannah,  Georgia, .,. , 275 

70.  The  Fall  of  Tocooa,  Georgia, 279 

76.  A  Cotton  Plantotion,  iJabama, 285 

77.  New  Orleans,  La, 295 

7a  Wild  Ufb  in  Texas, 809 

70.  Yiew  on  the  Tennessee  Biver, 816 

80.  Scenes  on  the  Kentucky  Biver,  Kentncl^, 819 

81.  Louisville,  Kentucky, .• 880 

88.  The  Gothic  Chapel:  Ifammoth  Cave,  Kentucky, 884 

88.  The  Star  Chamber:  Mammoth  Cave,  Kentucky,. 886 

81  Steamboat  Landing,  Cincinnati,  Ohio, 829 

80.  Cleveland,  and  part  of  Ohio  City,  Ohio, 888 

88.  The  State  House,  Indianapolis,  Lidiana, '. 887 

87.  Prairie  on  Fire,  Illinoi^ 889 

88.  Chicago,  IllinoiB, 848 

80.  Detroit,  Michigan, 846 

00.  St  Louis,  Missouri,. 851 

01.  Boeky  Towers,  near  Dubuque,  Upper  Missiasippi, 854 

98.  The  Wisconsin  University  at  Madison, 856 

98.  Lake  Mendota,  Madison,  Wisconsin, 859 

91  The  Falls  of  St  Anthony,  Misaiasippi, 868 

96.  Bed  Wing  Yillage,  Upper  Mlaalasippi, 865 

96.  Panama, 869 

97.  The  Golden  Gate,  San  Franciaoo,  California, .' 870 

98.  Monti  Diabolo,  California, 878 

99.  The  Yalley  of  the  Toaemitif  ^ 8TT 

100.  TiQe  Page. 


i  . 


INDEX. 


Aberdflin,  Ala..  908. 

inpnleo,  Hubor  o£  (Yoyage  to  San  Fnui- 

Cisco  from  New  York,)  86& 
Adams,  Maaa»  88. 

Adirondaofc  Monntalns,  N.  T.,  1«8, 109. 
Alabama,  SUte  of,  2ati. ' 
Alabama,  the  Hill  Region,  288. 
Alabama  Biver,  886. 
Alabama,  Mineral  Springs,  889. 
Alabama,  Bailways,  i89. 
Alabaster  Moontaln,  Ark.,  818L 
Albany,  N.  T.,  184 
Alexandria,  Ya.,  81T. 
Allentown,  Pa.,  189. 
Alton,  111^848. 

Almanao,  The  Trareller's,  SI 
Amherst,  Mass.,  7T. 
AmioaloU  Falls,  Qik,  883. 
Andover,  71. 

AndroBcogsin  Birer,  Me.,  67. 
AnnapollsBirer,  N.  B.,  60. 
Annapolis,  Md.,  808. 
Ann  Arboar,  Mich.,  847. 
Appalaohleola,  Fa.,  809. 
Arkansas,  State  of,  811. 

Bivers,  818. 

Towns.  81& 
Arkansas  Btver,  818. 
Arkansas  Post,  81& 
** Ashland,"  Home  of  Olay,  Lexington,  Ky., 

82t 
Aipinwall,  867. 
Astoria,  L.  L,  115. 
Astoria,  Or.  Ty.,  88Sw 
Athens,  Cla.,  S78. 
Atlanta,  aa.^8. 

Anbnm,  N.  T.  Central  BaQway,  169. 
Anbom,  Gal.,  876. 
Angasta,  Me.,  67. 

Aognstsi  Qa.,  Bontet  thenee,  877. 
AnatiiL  Tex.,  811. 
ATon  Spring.,  N.  Y.,  178, 

B 

Biltimoie  and  Yiolnity,  199. 
Oemeteriea,  801. 
Ohorohes,  800. 
Hotels,  801. 
Monuments,  199. 
PnbUoEdifloes,199. 
TheiMMs,801. 


Baltimore  and  Ohio  BaQway,  901 

Baltimore  to  Philadelphia,  m. 

BaltimoFe  to  Washington,  814. 

Bangor,  Me.,  60. 

Bate8TiUe,Arib,8ia 

Bath,  Me.,  67. 

Baton  Bonge,  La.,  Home  of  General  Taylor, 

802. 
Battle  of  the  Brandywine,  179. 
BatUe  of  anilford  Oonrt  Honae,  N.  0.,  84& 
BatUe  of  Long  Islaad,  178. 
Battle  of  Trenton,  1701 
BatUe  of  Wyoming  18B. 
Beanlbrt,  S.  0.7m 
Bellhst,  Me.,  66. 
BeUowaFaUs,Yt,79. 
Beloit,  W069. 
Bethlehem,  Pa.,  189. 

Bennington,  Yt,  Battle  of  Bennington,  106. 
Beveriy,  Mass.,  71. 
Beverly,  on  the  DeUware,  178. 
Big  Black  Biver,  Ala.,  298. 
Binghamton,  N.  Y.  and  Erie  Bailroad,  141. 


Birthplaoe  of  Henry  Clay, 
Birthplace  of  Washington,  884. 
Black  Mountain,  N.  0, 846. 
Black  Warrior  Biver.  Ala.,  88& 
Blowing  Oave,  Y&,  840. 
Blue  I^sk  Springs,  Kv.,  888. 
Boston,  Bontes  ftom  Kew  York,  01. 
Boston,  City  of;  06. 

Cambridge  and  Harvard,  08. 

Ohnrohea,08. 

The  Common,  0& 

East  Boston,  W. 

Fanenil  Hall,  00. 

History,  06. 

Hotels,  99. 

Public  Edifices,  63. 

South  Boston,  66. 

State  House,  69. 

Theatres,  69. 

The  Yicinage,  69. 
Bordentown,  N.  J.,  177. 
Brandon,  Yt.  106. 
Brattleborough,  Yt,  78. 
Brazos  Bivei;  Tex.,  809l 
Bridgeport,  Yt,  62. 
Brighton,  near  Boston,  72. 
Bristol,  176. 
British  America,  2& 
Brooklyn,  N.  Y.,  119. 

AtlantieDook,117. 
Ohiirehea,ll8. 


406 


TSVML, 


I  BrookljrB,  N.  T^  F«nlM  from  N«w  Tork,  119. 

Hotob,118. 

PabUe  BaUdtan  11& 

U.  S.  N»Tir  Taid,  IIT. 
Brown  Untvenlty,  ProtliUnee,  B.  L,  81 
Brownarin*.  Tax.,  811. 
BnuMwtek,  lie.,  fit. 
Badd*•Lllk^N.J.,lT». 
BaflUo,  N.  t^  IW. 
BnflUo  Hunttmi;  STebnak*  Ter.,  890. 
Ball's  Famr.  Hadwn  BlTer,  Ul. 
Baaker't  iflU,  BiMton,  «•. 
Barilngton,  Yt.  106^ 
BurUngton,  N.  J..  177, 
Barilngton,  lo,  856. 


Oaladonto  Bpringi,  Oaanda,  81. 

0«lUbnil«,  Hiatorf  and  Topography,  88B. 

OalUbml*.  Vlait  to  the  Intonor  and  along  the 
Coaat,871. 

Oalifornla,  the  Saenunento  Beglon,  87t 

Oalifomla,  Toyage  down  the  Coaat  879. 

OaUfomia,  Voyage  np  the  Ooaat,  880. 

Oaliibmla,  Tables  of  Bootea  from  San  Fran- 
elsoo,  Sacramento  City,  Stockton  and 
ICarysvllle,  to  all  other  polnto  in  the  State, 
881  t  ^ 

Camden  and  Amboy  Ballwar,  IKL 

Camden,  opppelto  Phlhidelpnla,  178. 

Camden,  S.  C.,  957. 

GamdenlAriL,  8ia 

Camel's  Hamjp  Moontaln,  T t,  108. 

Campton,  ana  West  Campton,  N.  H.,  9& 

Canandalgna  Lake,  N.  T.,  160. 

Canandateaa,  N.  T.  Central  BaUway,  180. 

Canaan,  Connectlcat,  81. 

Ganad»— Its  Geographyand  Area ;  DUcoTery, 
Settlement,  and  Balers;  Oovemment: 
Bellgion:  Landscape;  Mountains;  and 
Bivera,  9B. 

<i»nH*^  Ballways,  82. 

Cape  Cod  and  the  Sea  Islands,  78. 

Ct^  Olnurdeao,  Mo.,  859. 

Cape  May,  N.  /.,  17a 

Carondelet,  Mo»  859. 

Carlisle,  Pa.,  197. 

Carquinez,  Straits  o£  CaL,  871. 

Cascade  Bridge,  N.  T.  and  Erie  Batlroad,  140. 

Cascade  Bange,  Oregon,  881 

Castlne,  Me.,  86.  « 

Cata^tsn,  on  the  Snsqaehsnna^  Pi^VMNL 

CatskiUTillage,  Hudson  BiTef,m 

The  CatsklllMoantains,  Boates  thitiier.  141 
The  High  Fal^  145. 
High  Peak,  147. 
The  Moontaln  Hoase,  141 
The    Plnatorkill  Clore, 

147. 
The  Stormy  Clove,  147. 
The  Two  Lakes,  140. 

Caady*s  Castle,  Va.,  941. 

Caynga,  K.  T.  Central  BaUway,  160. 

Caynga  Lake,  N.  T.,  180. 

**CedarUwn,"  Home  of  J.  T.  Headley,  18t 

Cedarmere,  L.  I.,  Home  of  Bryant,  178. 

Centre  Harboor,  N.  H.,  91. 

Charieston,  S.  C,  Bouties,  949. 

Charleston,  S.  O,  OescriptiOD  ot,  949. 

Charleston,  N.  Hi,  79. 


Chariotte,  N.  C,  94& 

CharlottesTlUe,  Ya.,  998. 

Chattahoochee  Btver,  .G*.*— 'Lafend  of  the 
Lover's  Leap,  979. 

Chattanoom,  Tenn.,  817. 

ChaadiereTaUs,  Qaebec,  I8L 

Chelsea  Beach,  TO. 

Cherry  YaUey,  K.  T.,  111. 

Cheraw,  S.  0, 908. 

Chesapeake  Bay,  Md.,  909. 

Chicago,  la,  841. 

CbUtcothe,  O.,  881 

Cincinnati,  O.,  Boates  tlieneCL  and  ^otels,  8M. 
"florth  Bend,"  Home  of  Qenenl 

Harrlson,M9.      . 
••OvertheBhine,"m 
Pablie  Poildlngs,  Charches,  Tbet- 

tree,  880, 881. 
Besldence  of  Mr.  Longworth,  88i 
Saspenslon  Bridge,  881. 
The  Vicinage,  MO. 

Oiaremont,  N.  H.,  79. 

Clarendon  Springs.  Vi,  101 

Clarksville,  GhOtTO. 

Cleveland,  O.,  889. 

Cdoma,  OsL,  875l 

Colorado  Biver,  Tex.,  809. 

Colombia  Springs,  near  Hndaon,  N.  T.,  179, 

Columbia,  Pa.,  191 

Colombia,  S.  0.,  807. 

Colombia,  Tenn.,  817. 

Columbia,  CaL,  «K. 

Columbia  Biver,  Oregon  Territory,  884 

Cold  Spring,  Hudson  Biver,  180. 

Golumbus,  Oa,,  978. 

Columbus,  Ala.,  998. 

Columbus,  O.,  888. 

Coney  Island,  116, 

Concord,  Mass.,  79. 

Concord,  N.  H.,  90. 

Connecticut,  State  ot,  80. 

Connetticat  Biver  and  Ballwkya,  78. 

Conway  Valley,  N.  H.,  9L 

Cooperstown,  K.  T.,  179. 

Cooper's  Well,  Ala.,  99a 

Cornwall  Landing,  Hudson  Biver,  180. 

Covington,  Ky.,  §it. 

Coultorsvilie,  Gal^877. 

Gowpens,BattIe Field,  S.  C, 96a 

Cosaens*  HotoL  Hudson  Biver,  ISa 

Croton  Falls,  Harlem  Bail^ay,  14a 

Comberland,  Md.,  909. 

Cumberland  Biver,  Ky.,  8ia 

Cumberland  Gap,  Ky.,  82a 

Cnrrabee  Mountain,  Ga.,  98a 


Dartmouth  College,  Hanover,  N.  H.,  80i 

Davenport,  lo.,  805. 

Dayton,  O..  881 

Dacotah,886. 

Deerfleld  Mountain,  Mass.,  77. 

Delaware,  State  o£  l79. 

Delaware  Biver,  188. 

Delaware  Water  Gap,  Pa..  197. 

Detroit,  Mich.,  847. 

Dos  Plaines  Biver,  DL,  841. 

Devil's  Pulpit,  Ky..  898, 

District  of  Columbia,  911 

Dobb's  Ferry,  Hndaon  Biver,  19a 


407 


dwn,N.T,178, 


j)0T«r  Plaloib  Hulam  Ballmj,  1481 
Pnnnon  Sprliuak  K7.,  89& 
Pnbaan*,  louSoS. 
SanUrk,  nTt.  ASxto  B.  K 


.B^14& 


Euteni  Shore  of  ICuyland  Md  YliginlOt  MS. 
EMtport,  Me.,  ftT. 
EMUtolft  FaUs,  Ga.,  98t 

Srin  Sprlog,  Vt,  101 
ubethtown,  N.  J.,  17B. 
SUloott'aMUli,Md..901. 
Elmlra,  N.  TTds  Brie  B.  S.,  148. 
Enterprise,  F».,  M& 
Epsom  Selto  Oave,  Ind.,  iM. 
EHiTcN.  T.,  A)  Biaiwey.  IM. 
SwolapU  Bpringa.  Ky.,  898. 
EvuuTlUe.  Indl  888. 
Etttew  SpiWi  S*  O-i  SM. 

r. 

Fan  Hirer  Boate  from  New  York  to  PtotI- 

denoe  and  Boaton,  89,  64. 
Fall  Blver,  Maaa.,  64. 
Falls  of  the  Faaaaic,  N.  J.,  178. 
Falls  of  St  Antbonv,  Mlaalaalppl  Biver,  SOU 
Farette?ille,N.O.,94a. 
FiUmore  City,  Utah,  894. 
Fishing  and  Field  Sporta,  It 
FlshUD,  Hadaon  Birer,  189. 
Flstbush,  L.  I.,  116. 
Flatlands,  L.  I.,  116. 
Flint  Blver.Oa.,  979. 
Florida,  964. 
Flashing,  L.  L,  116. 
Fond  da  Lao,  Wis.,  869. 
Fond  da  Lao.  Mln.  Ter.,  86S. 
Fort  Des  Moines,  lo.,  8S5. 
Fort  Hill,  S.  C,  Home  of  Oalboui,  MO. 
Fort  Lee,  Hudson  Biver,  199. 
Fort  Madison,  lo.,  SOfi. 
Fort  Moultrie,  S.  0.j9S7. 
Fort  Plain,  Oentral  BaUway,N.  Y.,  164. 
Fort  Smith,  Ark.,  8ia 
FortSnelllng,  Min.  Ter.,  86& 
Fort  Washington,  Hudson  Birer,  IM. 
Fort  Wayne,  Ind.,  88a     . 
Fortification  Bock,  Wis..  867. 
Fountain  Cave,  Mln.  Ter^  868. 
FoxBiTer,UL,841. 
Fox  and  Phillips  Springs,  Ky.,  898. 
Frankfort,  Ky.,  829. 
Frederiokton,  N.  B.,  49. 
Frederick,  Md.,  209. 
Fredericksbun^  Ya.,  991 
French  Broad  Biver,  N.  0.,  Mflw 


O. 

Oalena,  HL,  8^ 

Oalveston,  Tex.,  810. 

Gardiner,  Me»  67. 

Qates  of  the  Booky  Monstalna,  Hlaaonri  Biy- 

er  848 
Genesee  Falls,  N.  Y.,  160. 
Geneva,  N.  Y.  Oeritral  BaUway,  160. 
G«>x|ia,8totdoi;970. 


OMfyla,  Bidlw»7  BoatfL  fTl 

Oeorgia,  the  Moontain  Begioii,  979.     . 

OMrgla,  Moiurtataaoooaiinodatloa%  9891 

Georgetown,  D.  0.,  917. 

Oeorgatowo,  S.  O,  M7. 

Ginger  Oak*  Book,  N.  O,  S4& 

Glen*s  FaUa,  N.  Y.,  161^ 

GraTeseiidrL.I.,lia 

Great  Barrington,  Mass.,  81. 

Great  Lakes,  the.  49. 

Great  Bend,  N.  Y.  *  Erie  B.  B.,  14L 

Great  Bait  LOia,  UtalkWl 

Great  Salt  Lake  Gl^Tutah,  891 

Great  Falls  of  the  Miasoori,  848. 

Greeu  Bay,  Wis.,  808. 

GreenflelcL  Maas.,  7a 

Greenwood  Lake,  N.  Y.  di  N.  J.,  179, 

Green  Biver,  Ky.,  8ia 

GreenTille,  8. 0.,  96a 


Hagerstown.  Md.,  90S. 

HaUftx,  nIB.,  6d 

HalloweIl,Me.,67. 

Hampton,  71. 

HarnQton,  Canada,  89,  A 

Hancock,  N.  Y.  ds  Erie  B.  B.,189. 

Hanover,  Ya.,  296. 

Hanging  Booka,  Ya.,  949. 

Hanover,  N.H.,  80. 

Hannlbi^  Mo.,  86S. 

HariemBaUway,  14a 

Harrodsburg,  Ky.,  899. 

Harrodsburg  Springs,  Ky. 

Harper's  Ferry,  Ya.,  907, 

Harrisborg,  Pa.,  190i 

Hartford.  Ott  69. 

Harvard  university,  6a 

Hastings,  Hadson  Biver,  isa 

Haveistraw,  Hudson  Biver,  126. 

Havre-de>Grace,  Md.,  180. 

Hawk's  HU1,N.C.,  246. 

HawkVNest,  Ya.,240. 

Hermitage,  Home  of  GeneratJaokson,  8ia 

Hiawassee  Falls,  Oa.,  981 

Hickory  Nut  Gap,  N.  a,  S4B. 

Highlands  of  the  Hudson,  197. 

Hingham,Maaa.,7a 

Hoboken,  N.  J.,  116. 


Holly  Springs,  Ala., 

Homelwrme,  N.  Y.  de  Erie  B.  B.,  143,. 

HouaiaoiiKI  Biver,  Yalley  and  Bailway,  80. 

Hbuston,  Tex.,  811. 

Hndson  Biver,  description  of^  119. 

Hudson  Biver  Bailway,  190. 

Hudson  Biver  Steamboat  Boute,  19a 

Hudson,  Hndson  Biver,  18a 

HuntsvlUe,  Ala.,  289. 

Hyde  Park,  oOiUio  Hudson,  189. 


Ice  Moontain,  Ya.,  S41. 

"  Idlewild,"  Home  of  N.  P.  Willis,  I8O1 

nilnois,  State  of;  888. 

Illinois  Prairies,  Grand  Pnlrie,  889. 

Illinois  Biver,  840. 

Indian  Springs,  Ga.,  981 


408 


IHDilZ. 


XafUtBa,  BiTMt,  Bailvtyi,  Towaa,  •to,  8ttC 
udlMupolit.  Ind.,  88T> 
ladtuTcrntofT^-asteat  elutrMtor,  and  ta* 

iMMUaUSM. 
Iowa,  SUto  <  IMl 
Iowa  Blr«r,  808. 
Iowa  CUtjr,  804. 
LnrlBftoa '  Mid  "BaanTttd*,' 
,198. 


on  tho  Had* 


•on,  IM. 
Id*  oflhoab.  PortMBonth,  N.  H.,  71, 


J. 

JMluoaTUl«,Fa..9<& 
jMkMn,  Ala.,  998. 
JMkion,  Toun..  817. 
Junaloa,  L.  L,  ilC 
Jsmettowniya.,  998. 
Jaaesvllle,  Wla.,  8M. 
JeflSenon  Olty,  Mo.,  809. 
Jersey  City. «.  J.,  117. 
Jocasaee  Yailey,  8.  0.,  961. 
Jualau  Sl>er,  Pa.,  199. 


Xuiu    TerritoiT^— duunwtor    aad    Mttle- 
nent,886. 
Bootee  tUther,  889. 
Kanna  Btver,  888. 
Kaoaaa,  Towaa  and  YlUagea,  888L 
B:aakakee  Btrer,  IU.,841. 
KatahdlnMt,  Maine,  Oft. 
Keene,  N.  H.,  79. 
KeeaeTlUe,  N.  T.,  10ft. 
Kentucky,  State  ot  817. 
Kentaoky  Oavea,  894. 
Kentueky  Bailwaya,  819. 
Kentaoky  Blven,  81& 
Kentnoky  Sink  Holea,  99& 
Kentucky  Springs,  899. 
Kentucky  Towns,  818. 
Kentucky  Blrer,  818. 
Kenoaha,  Wla.,  800. 
Kennebec  Biver,  Me.,  OA, 
Keokuk,  la,  850. 
Keowee  Blrer,  8.  a,  981. 
Key  West,  Fa.,  969. 
KlUington  Pedt,  Yt,  104. 
Kinderhook,  on  the  Hudson,  184, 
Kingaton,  Canada,  80,  41. 
Kingston,  on  the  Hudson.  188. 
King's  Mountain,  BatUe  Field,  8.  C,  969. 
Knob  Lick,  Ky.,  829. 
Knozvllle,  Tenn.,  816. 


La  Fayette,  Ind.,  898. 

La  Chine,  Canada,  89, 

Lake  Castleton,  Yt,  104 

Lake  OhamplaiiLN.  T.,  ie& 

Lake  Dunmore,  Yt,  104, 

Lake  George ;  Boutes:  Caldwell,  Bolton,  The 

Narrows,  Sabbath  Day   Point,  Bogera* 

Slide,  Tlconderoga,  161. 
Lake  Mahopac,  171. 


Lake  PleaMat,  Begloa  ot,  N.  T.,  ITOi 
Lake  Ontario,  41. 
Lancaster,  Pa,  lOOi 


Lansing,  ilieh!,  847. 

Lauderdale  Sprtna^  • 

Lebanon  Bprinipsl[.  T.,  '81  *  171. 


inc.  Ml— 
LaaderdaU  Sprtnfii  Ala,  908^ 

Lebanon,  f ennT,  tit. 


Lebanon,  Tenn.,  n' 
LehighBlrer,  189. 
Lettonlan  Bprlnga,  Ky.,  898. 
Lewlston,  lie.,  Mi 
Lexington,  Maaa.,  Til 
Lexington,  Ya.,  m 


Lexington,  Ky.,  890k 

Lexington,  Mo.,80a, 

lioking  Biver,  Ky..  8ia 

Uttle  Falls,  Central  BaUway,  N.  T.,  100. 

Little  Bo^  Ark- 8181 

"Llndenwold,*'  Homa  of  Martin  Yan  Bonn. 

184 
London,  Canada,  88. 
Long  Branch,  N.  J.,  1161 


Long  Island,  N.  T.,  tad  Battle  oi;  179, 
ok«ontMov 
ingeloa,* 
Louisia^  »tote  ot,  994 


Look'ont  Monntala^Oa.,  9«t9. 
Los  Angeloa,  Cal.,  IrTO. 
Isiana,  Btate  ol. 

Bailways,994 
LonlavlUe,  Ky.,  819, 
LowelL  71. 
Lynn,  Maa^TO. 
Lyncnbnrg,  Ya.,  99& 


MacUnae,  the  Btralti  oi;  48. 
Macon,  Ga.,  97& 
MadlMm's  Cave,  Ya,  940. 
Madison,  Ind.,  887. 
Madison,  Wis.,  808. 
Madison  Springs,  Oa.,  984. 
Mahopac,  Lake,  171. 
Maine,  State  on.04 
Mainitonwao,  Wia~  860. 
Mammoth  Cave,  Ky.,  894 
Mammoth  Tree  Orove,  Cal.,  876. 
Mansfield  Mountain,  Yt,  108. 
Maiyland.  State  of,  198. 
Marshfleld,Mass.,79. 
Martha'a  Yineyarl,  79. 
Maripoea,  Cal.,  877. 
Maasacbuaetts,  State  oi;  60. 
Mauoh  Chunk,  Pa»  190. 
Maumee  Biver,  Ind.,  88& 
MaysTille,  Ky.,  899. 
MwysTille,  CaL,  878. 
MarysTllle  Buttea,  CaL,  878. 
MarysvUle  to  Shasta  City,  CaL,  87a 
Memphremagog,  Lake,  100. 
Memphis,  Ten£,  814 
Mendota,  Min.  Ter.,  868. 
Miami  Biver,  O.,  82& 
Michigan,  State  o£  844 
Middleboron^,  Mass.  79. 
MiddleburyTYt,  104 
Middleburg,  Fa.,  266. 
Milwaukee,  Wis.,  808. 
MiUedgeville,  Oa.,  97a 
Milton,  Or.  Ter.,  880. 

Minnesota  Terrltorjr— Ita  Area,  Surlkce,  SoU, 
Foreat  Land,  Biven,  dn.,  86a 


409 


BailwmJNL 

Towiu,9M, 

WktoriM  PImM|  SNL 
MlMlMlppl  BtTci^-^MMriptloa  ot,  and  TM>le 

oflKitaii«M,80«. 
lUHOorl,  Stoto  oC  847. 

Mobilo,  AlA.,  BoatM  th*iiM,  9M. 

lIok«liimii«  HIU,  OaL  8T«. 

MoBtr«d,  Ouada,   BontM  thlttMr,  Hotola, 

PoMlo  Balidlafik  Vieialtf ,  89. 
MontiMUo,  Home  of  Jaflenoa,  ilSb 
Montgooienr,  Al^flMi 
Honteraj,  Cat,  87V. 
Montmannel  Falla.  Oaaada,  87. 
Montpeller,  Tt,  108. 
MooMhaad  Lake,  fi& 
Mooot  Aaentnar,  Yt,  Tt. 
Monnt  Anborn  Ceimtary,  41. 
Monnt  Doaart  lalaad,  87. 
Monnt  Hope,  Narraganaat  Bay,  B.  1. 8& 
Monnt  Hor7ok«.MaMH  74 
Monnt  Indepandenoa,  Lake  OhamplalB,  10B. 
Mount  Tom,  Maaa.,  7& 
Monnt  Toby,  Maaa.,  77. 
Monnt  Yernoii— Home  and  Tomb  of  Waah* 

Ington,  818. 
Mount  Warner,*78i 
Mumflreetboro*.  TeiUL,  817. 
Mnnroe  Olty,  Mlob.,  847. 
Mnacle  Shoala,  Ala.,  888. 
Muscatine,  lo.,  86& 
Mnakingom  rarer  O.,  887. 

H. 

Naeooehea  Valley,  Ckk,  981. 

Na]iant,70. 

NanUooke,  Pa.,  188.  • 

Nantnoket,  78b 

Nantaaket  Beaob,  70i 

Napoleon,  Ark.,  818. 

Namganaet  Bar,  B.  L,  81 

Narrowsbniw,  N.  Y.  aad  BHa  B.  B.,  ISa 

NashTllle,  TtniLjIld. 

Natural  BridgeTva.,  988. 

Natural  Bridge,  Ala.,  988. 

Natural  Bridge,  Ky.,  89a 

Natural  Bridge,  Ark.,  818. 

Natehes,  Ala.,  99& 

NauTOO,  BLTmI 

Nazareth,  Pa.,  180. 

Nebraska  Territcnry,  889. 

Hunting  droimda,  800. 

Manralaea  Terrea,  88a 

Blrer8,899L 

The  Boofar  Moontaina.  889. 

Towna,  TlUagea,  and  Bontea,  889. 
Nevada,  OaL,  874 
New  Albany,  Ind.,  887. 
Newark,  N.  J.,  174 
New  Bedlbrd,  Maaa.,  79. 
Newborn.  N.  0..  946..^ 
Newbnrgh,  on  the  HVfcon,  181. 
New  Brnnswlek,  Oeneral  Deaoription  of,  47. 
New  Bnmawlck,  N.  J.,  178. 
Newburyport  Maaa.,  71. 
Newoaatle  and  Frenohtown  Bsilway,  180. 

18 


Bonta 
Pforl» 


Vaw  HampahlN,  Bttia  oC  88. 
New  Haren,  Oi,  89. 
New  Hare^  Hartford,  and  Bi 
from  New  Tork  to  Bos' 
deaee,  81-89. 
New  Jeraey,  State  oC  178. 
NewJeraefBaUwlr,174 
New  Madrid,  Mo.,  869. 

New  Mezleo,  Tarritory  oi;  and  Bontea  to,  880. 
NawOrleana,La.,98B. 

Batae<499a 

Oamlral  Faatiritiea,  989. 

Oemeteriea,988. 

OhnreheaTrnbllo  Ediflcea,  &o., 
907. 

The  Onole  Popolation,  999. 

Hotela,  Theatrea,  Ao.,  998. 

TheLeree,801. 

TheMarketa,800. 

Panorama  of  the  City,  801. 

P4re  AnUdne'a  Date  Palm,  809. 
Newport,  B.  I.,  84 


Neiro«rt,Ky., 
New^indaor,  180. 
New  Tork,  SUtao£10B.  . 
New  Tork  Olty.m. 

The  Aiaenal,  lift. 
Art8oeietlea.ll8. 
Bloomingdale,  lift. 
Ohnrohea,  118. 
Oroton  Aqnednot,  114. 
Crystal  Palaoe,  114 
Fort  Hamilton,  115. 
Greenwood  Oemetery,  114 
Harlem,  118. 
High  Bridge,  114 
H^ls,  loS 
Literary  Inatltutiona  and  U- 

braries,  111. 
ManhattaarlUe,  lltt 
N.  T.  Bay  Oemetery,  11 1. 
Panorama     from      Trinity 

Oharofa,107. 
Pnblio  Bnildlnga,  lia 
PnbUo  Parka  and  Sqaarea, 

100. 
Theatres  andPlacea  of  Amnse- 
ment,  114 
New  Tork  to  Albany  and  Troy,  119. 
New  Tork  to  Beaton— Bontea,  of. 
New  Tork  to  BnfUo,  N.  T^  169. 
New  Tork  to  Baftdo  and  Niagara  Falls,  148. 
New  Tork  to  the  OatsklU  Mountains,  144 
New  Tork  and  Erie  BaUway,  184 
New  Tork  to  Lake  Erie,  184 
New  Tork  to  Montreal,  via  Lake  Ohamplatn, 

168. 
New  Tork  to  PhihMlelphia,  174 
New  Tork  to  TrentonTalls,  164 
Niagara  Falla.    Bontea,  Goat  IsUnd,  the  Ba- 
pida,  Ohapin^a  laUmd,  the  Toll  Gate,  the 
Oare  of  the  Winds,  Luna  Island,  Sam 
Patch's  Leap,  Biddle's   Stairs,  Prospect 
Tower,  the  Horae-shoe  Fall,  Gull  Island, 
Grand  Island,  the  Whirlpool,  the  Devil's 
Hole,  Ohasm  Tower,  the  Maid  of  theMlat, 
the  Great  Suspension  Bridge,  Bender's 
Gave,  the  Clifton  Houae,   Table  Book, 
Termination  Book,  181. 
Niokidaok  Care.  Ga.  and  Ala.,  988, 888. 
Noi^ya.,m 


410 


uwsac 


North  OivoUaB,  Qemnl  Renunka,  Ballwcyi, 

Ac,  848. 
North  Oandlna.  Monntain  Btgion,  840i. 


^Northampton,  Mats.,  7& 

"'(unt.aiii'  ~ 
Northambflrumd, 


North  Poll 


^aad  Battle  oi;  sot 

on  the  Bnaaoehaan*,  Ft,, 
IM. 

Norwalk,  Ot,  68. 
Norwich  Boate,  ttmn  New  Toik  to  Boaton, 

&0.,  08,(IB. 
Not*  Seotia,  Description  ot,  49. 
Nyaok,  Hoawn  Biver,  181 


O. 

Ockmnlgee  Blver,  Ctoo;  art. 
Oconee  Biver,  Geo.,  878. 
Oglethorpe  ITniTeraty,  Chk,  879    • 
Ohio,  fltate  o£  887. 

Biyera,887. 

Ballwa]r8.888. 

Cltlea  and  Towns,  829.^ 
Ohio  Blvei;  Description  and  Distances,  800. 
Olympia,  Wash.  Ter.,  8^ 
Omaha  City,  Nebraska  Ter.,  898. 
Orragebnnc,  S.  0.,  25a 
Oreson    Territoi^,    History,    Top 
ISiyers^  Moontalnt,  Towns,  Aa,  { 
Oregon  Ctty,  88R. 
Or^n,  Boutes  from  St.  Lonls,  88B. 
Otsego  Lake,  N.T.,  178. 
Ottawa  Blrei;  Canada,  Description  of,  86. 
Otter  Creek  Falls,  Yt,  104. 
Owego,  N.  T.  and  Erie  B.  B.,  141. 


P. 


Padacah,  Ky.,  888. 

Pshtine  Bridge,  Central  Bailway,  N.  Y.,  150. 

Palisades,  on  the  Hudson,  181. 

Palmyra,  Mo.,  868. 

Panama,  868. 

Parroqnet  Sprinos,  Ey.,  888. 

Passamaqaoddy  Bay,  6& 

PatapscoBiyer,198. 

Peaks  of  Otter,  Ya..  887. 

Pearl  Blver,  Ala.,  898. 

Peeksktll,  Hudson  Blver,  18A. 

Pendleton,  S.  C,  860. 

Pennsylvania,  State  of;  181, 

Pennsylvania  Coal  Beglon,  198. 

Pennsylvania  Ballwav,  190. 

Penobscot  Blver,  Mune,  66. 

Pensaool%Fa..269. 

Peoria,  Ill»  848. 

Peru,  UL,  848. 

Petenwell  Peak,  W\,  857. 

Petersbnn^Ya.,28b. 

Picoolata,  Fa.,  866. 

Pickens  Court  House,  8.  0.j861. 

Piermont,  Hudson  Blver,  188. 

Pike's  Peak,  Kansas  Ter.,  888. 

HIatkA,Fa.,866. 

Pilot  Mountain,  N.  C,  246. 

Pilot  Mountain,  Cta.,  282. 

Pilot  Knob,  Mln.  7  er.,  868. 

Pittafleld,  Mass.,  Pi 

Pittsburg,  Pa.,  t51. 


Phlhderj^hia  and  YltMty,  188. 

ArtSodetie&lSR, 
.  Benevolent  Instltntioiis,  186, 

Brandywine  Spring!^  188. 

Cape  May,  ImT^ 

Cemetertes,  Laurel  Hill,  Ac.,  186. 

Ohnrohea,  186. 

Fairmont  Waterworks,  187. 

Falls  of  the  SehnyUdll,  187. 

Geimantown,  18& 

Hotels,  187. 

Kalghna  Point,  188. 

Literary  Ingtitntlons,  185. 
"  Mao%yunk;l88. 

Medical  Cdlegea,  186. 

Places  of  Amusement,  186. 

Prisons,  186L 

PubUoBdlfloea,  188. 

Public  Square^  188. 

The  SchuylkiU  Yiaduct,  187. 

Wissahlckon  Creek,  187. 
Philadelphia  to  Baltimore,  179. 
Fhilad^phia,  Wilmington     and    Baltimore 

B.  B.,  180. 
PhUadelMii»  to  Pittsburg  and  the  West,  m. 
Phillip*s3each,  70, 

**  Plaoentia,'*  home  of  J.  K.  Paulding,  182. 
Plaeerville,  OaL,  876. 
nattsburg,  N.  Y.,  and  Battle  of  Lake  Oham> 

.pl«ln,"66. 
Plantagenet  Springs,  Canada,  81. 
Platte  BiverjJLan^  Ter.,  88a 
Platteville,  Wis.,  869. 
Plymouth,  Mass.,  72. 
Poplar  Mountain  Springs,  Ky.,  8Ba 
Portage  City,  Wis.,  86a  > 

Port  Clinton,  Pa.,  189. 
Port  Kent,  Lake  Champlaln,  166. 
Port  Jervisv  N.  Y.  and  Brie  B.  B.,  ISa 
Portland,^Me.,  68. 
Portland,  Oregonj886. 
Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  71. «    , 
Portsmouth,  Va.,  228. 
Portsmouth,  O.,  886. 
Portage,  N.  Y.  and  Erie  B.  B.,  148. 
Potomac  Blver,  19a 
Pottstown,  Pa.,  189. 
PottsviUe,  Pa.,  189. 
Poughkeepsie,  Hudson  Blver,  182. 
Powder  Springs,  Ga.,  284. 
Preface,  6. 

Presoott,  Canada,  40.        . 
Princeton,  N.  J.,  176. 
Princeton  College,  N.  J.,  175. 
Providence  and  vicinity,  88), 


Q. 

Quebec,  Oanada,  description  oi;  Boutes,  Ho- 
tels, objects  of  interest  in  the  city  acd  vi- 
cinity, 86. 

Quinoy,  near  Boston,  78. 

Qulncy,  UL,  84a 


Bahway,  N.  J.,  176. 
Baleigh,N.  C.,a44 
Bamapo  Yalley,  N.  Y.  and  Erie  B.  R  187. 


UfJDBSL. 


411 


BedBaiik,N.jJ^.US. 

loal'uid  Topognq^cal 


Bed  Sulpbor  -^ — , 
Bhode  uland,  Hlsi 

mention,  88l 
BiohilBld  Bptbagit,  N.  T.,  ITS. 
Blohmottd.  y«^  SMu 
Bldem  FaUMWUdk,  28. 
Bio  Onui«teu  Texas,  809. 
Biven  of  Alabsm*,  8861 
BooheBter,  N.  T.  OeiriTal  BaUwrny,  IW. 
Bock  MoontalK  Cte.,  1H8. 
Booky  Point,  Niitnuaiuet  B^',  ]^  L,  8S. 

Bock  IsIaiicirilLiMa. 

Bockland  Lake,  Hadaon  BlTVr,  IStk 

BodL  Blver,  nL^MQi 

Bondont  tm  the  HndMii,  188. 

Boiue's  Point,  Lake  Obamplaia,  UMk 

Bowland  Sprfnn,  Cta.,  981 

Batiand,  iri,  l3£ 


8t  Aancl^  Falls,  Oanada,  88. 

Bt  Andrew^  N.  &,  48. 

8t  Anthony,  MIn.  Ter.,  and  the  Tails  of  0b 

Anthony,  888  and  860k 
Ban  Antonio,  Tex,  811. 
8t  Ansostine,  Fa,  SM. 
8anta  Barbara,  Oal,  878. 
8t  Catharines,  Oanikda^Sl,  4St. 
8t  Obarles  Oity,  Mo.,  868. 
St  Crdz  Falls  and  Baj^ds,  Mia.  Ten,  881 
San  Diego,  OaL,  880. 
Santa  Fe,  New  MUL.  896i. 
St  Francos,  on  Bed  Biver,  Atk.,j81iL 
Ban  Frandsco.,  OaL,  from  New  York,  88T. 
San  FnmoiBOo.,  OaL,  871. 
Bt  OeneTiere,  Mo,,  868. 
Ban  Joaqnin  Bei^on,  OaL,  8T& 
St  Josephs,  Ma~808. 
Bt  Johns  BiTer,N.  B.,  47. 
Bt  Johns,  N.  B.,  49.  m 

Bt  Johns  Blven  Fa.,  fi60i. 
St  Lawrence  BiTer;  Thousand  Islaads;  86, 

89. 
Bt  Leon  Swings.  Canada,  81. 
St  Lohls,  Mo^ilDO. 
St  Loois  Blver,  Wis.,  867. 
Bt  Mary,  Straits  oi;4& 
St  Manrs,  Oa.,  98& 
St  Marks,  Fa.,  868. 
San  Pablo,  Straits  ot  OaL,  871. 
St  Paol,  Mln.  Ter.,  86ft. 
dacrsmento  Blrer,  OaL,  878. 
Sacramento  Oity,  OaL,  878. 
Saddle  Monntau,  Man.,  88. 
Sagnenay  Blver,  Oaaada,  Bontea  thither  and 

deacariptioaoi(88l, 
Salem,  Mass.,  70. 
Salem,  Oru|on,  885. 
Salisbttry  Xteaoh,  7L 
Sidisbury  Lakes,  Ot,  81. 
Salt  Fond,  ya.784L 
Salt  Biver,  819. 
Sandusky  01ty,0»  88ft. 


SaTannab,  (Hty  of;  87SL 


Cemetery  cf  Bnonayentim,  87& 
Jasper's  Spring,  876. 


Savannah  Blver,  Scene  of  ihe  inveat^n  of  the 

Oottos  Qbi,  AlUgators,  ete.,  870. 
Sehooley'ii  Mountain,  N.  J.,  178. 
Seheneetady.  N.  Y.,  160. 
SchnylkOl  Mver,  188.  « 

Schuylkill  Haven,  Pa.,  189. 
Sdoto  Blver,  0.,-9a7. 
Sebago  Pond,  Maine,  Bl 
Seneca  Lake,  N.  T., 160. 
Sierra  Nevada  Monntidns,  OaL,  874. 
Slug  Sing,  Hudson  Bivei,  184. 
Slonx  Blver  and  Bupids,  lOn.  Ter.,  864. 
Shaker  TlUage,  N.  f.,  17t 
Sharon  SpriiuM,  171. 
ShasU01tyrcid.,87& 
Sheboygan,  Wi&,86a 
ShefBeld,  81. 
Shrewsbury,  N.  J.,  11& 
Sblokshlnney;  on  the  Susquehanna,  Pa.,  106. 
Skaneateles  UIm,  N.  Y.,  160. 
Skaneatelea,  N.  Y.  Central  BaUway,  160. 
Skeleton  Tours,  1& 
Slicking  FaUa,S.O.,  860. 
Sonera.  OaL,  877. 
South  ABiboy,lT7. 
South  Carolina,  847. 

*         Bailway  Bontea,  848. 

SeaboardandLowiAuds,  862,868. 

Mountain  villages  and  scenery. 


Sanganum  Biver,  fSL  8*1. 
TheSaranaoLakMTN.T., 
Saratoga  Springs,  148. 


1681 


South  Park,  Kansas  Tto.,  88a 

Spartanburg  S.  ^868. 

Springs  In  New  YoriK,  171. 

Springflield,  Masa,68. 

Springfield,  0.,  884. 

Springfield,  IlL,  848. 

Springs  In  Canada:— The  Caledonia,  the  Plan- 

tiwenet,  the  St  Leon,  and  St  Oatharinea. 

Bootes  thither.  81. 
Staten  Ishmd,  N.  %  m  116. 
Starrucca  Viaduct,  N.  Y.  it  BrieB.  B.,  140. 
Staunton,  Va.,  889. 
SteubenvlUe.0.,  884. 
Stillwater,  Mln.  Ter.,  86B. 
Stone  Mountain,  Ga,  888b 
Stookbridge,  Mass.,  81. 
Stockton,  Calllbmla,  87a 
Stonlngton  Boute  from  New  York  to  Pxovl* 
f     dence  and  Boston,  61, 61 
Stonlngton,  Conn.,  61 
Stony  Point,  Hudson  Blver,  186. 
Sugar  Loaf  Mountain,  Mass.,  77. 
Sugar  Loaf  Mountain,  MainOi  66. 
Sn&an,  Bay  of  CaL,  878. 
Sulphur  Springs,  €hu,  881 
Sonbury,Pa.,l96. 
Superior,  Tiake,  46. 

Susquehanna  Depot,  N.  Y.  A;  Brie  B.  B.,  141. 
Susquehanna  Blver,  <19a 
Swannanoa  Gap,  N.  0^  846. 
Syracuse,  N.  Y.  Central  Bailway,  168. 


T. 


Table  Mountain,  0^  b>  86a 
TWbleBock,N.C.,  8M 
TaUuhh  Falls,  6a.,  880. 


"•'■  'i' 


412 


IKDEX. 


Tasapt,  Fa.,  8W.  ^ 

TgRTtown,  Hndaon  Btv«r,  IM. 

Tar  JtiBio«kenrt<l«(e  White  Snlpmir  Spriaga, 

K7.,  aw.     '^ 
T«r  and  SoMmr  SpiUiA  K7.,  MS. 
Taogkanlo  Hoaotatna,  luaa.,  81. 
TiiDntoii,  Maaa.,  79.      >. 
TaaTaUe,Ta.,8tt. 
Teaneaaee,  State  oi;  814 
TeaneaseeBaUwaya,  81A. 
ITeimeaaee,  Blrer,  Teiiii.,(ll4. 
Tenneaaee  Towna,  816L 
Tenneaaee  Cavea  and  Moonda,  81T. 
Tern  Haate,  Ind.,  888. 
Texaa,  State  of;  80T. 
Texaa,  Laadaeme  oi;  806L 
Texas  Biren,  9119, 
Texaa  BaUwajm.  810. 
Texaa  To«a&  SIOl 
Texas  Wfld  Anlmala  and  BMb,  810. 
Thnaderlng  Spriaga,  Qa.,  884. 
Ttol>ndoran^  Fort  188. 
TIatoaIViS^N.^,ll& 
Toeooa  FaUa,  Oa.,  899. 
Tolado,  a,  88B. 

Tomb  of  the  Mother  of  Waahington,  885. 
T^bigbee  BiTer,  A]a.j888. 
Toronto^  Gaasda,  89,ia. 
Tear  ap  the  St  Lawienoe,  89.  « 

Toar  to  the  great  Lakea,  Toronto  to  OoIUug* 

wood,  MaoUaao,  Saalt  St  Marten  Lake 

Snperior,  48;  • 

inUMF^Oa.,884. 
Ti»(kBook.6ea,  888. 
Treaton  Falk  N.  T.,  108. 
TreatmOtN.  J.,1T6L 
Troj.N.T.,  18R. 
Tnaoalooaa,  Ala.,  89a 


^Und^rdUi;*'  Home  <rf6eoKe  P.  Moi 

IPmnlatlOB, 
UnioB  OoHege^Seheneotady,  N.  T.,  IM. 


United  Statea— Extent  and  Popnlatloi 


180. 


tralTemlty  or  Ylnlnia,  82& 

Uinbagog  Lake,  o& 

Utah  Territon'— Oharaeter,  Climate,  Lakea, 

Natoial  wondera,  Settlemeata,  Mormoaa, 

ntlM,  N.  T.  Oentrd  BaUw»7,  U8l 


V. 


Yaa  Bnrea,  Axk.,  818L 

yalle7Fonn,Pa.,189k  ' 

Valley  of  wyomlaft  Pa.,  194. 

Vermont,  State  oC  lOOi 

Vermont  Oeatial  Bailway,  lOL 

Veraoa,  Vt,  T8.  ♦ 

Verplaaok*a  Polat  Hadaon  BlTOr,  19B. 

Vlek8baiftAla.,W8. 

Vitdaia— Hlatorlcal  aad  Poettoal  Memories 
JBmlnent  Men,  Natnral  Beaatlaa,  Mbienil 
Sprlnga,  Bailwwr  Boate^  etigi,  9l& 

TliglBlal^ringa,  990. 

▲dTioetoInTa]lda,980. 
Alleghany  Spilngi,  98B. 
Bath  Alam  eprlnga,  984.  - 


Virginia,  Berkciley  Sl 

Oapon  Sprlnga,  % 
DfbreU1iS^ng8,S8K. 
Fanqnler  White  Snlphv*  98&  . 
Qrayaon^  Salphnr,  885. 
HeahngSpriiMciLaSS. 
H9t  Springs;  m 
Hagnenot  Sprinn,  385. 
Indian's  White  Salphan  tSU. 
New  London  Alnm,  98ou 
PnlasU  Alnm  Spring  885. 
Bftwley'a  Sprlun,  9wL 
Bedaweet%TOfi«B,981 


Whit 


,168. 


Boekbrl(to»  Alom,  i 
Boatea,  fiO. 
Salt  Salphnr,  988. 
Shanaoadale  Spriaga,  98& 
Sweet  Sprlnga,  884. 
Warm  Sprlnga,  384. 
White  Salphnr,  988. 


W. 

Wabash  Biver,  Ind.,  88& 
WaUedBaakaof  the  Anaable,  N.  T., 
WalhaUa,S.C.,900. 
W^twollopea,  oa  the  Saaqnehanoa,  Pa.,  19S, 
Washington  Olty— Descriptton,^atlonal  Edi- 
floes,  Mnniclpal  BnUfflilgB,  Hotels,  Mount 
Vemoa,  «te.,  810. 
Waahington  Territory— Physical  Aapect,  Sot- 

tlementa  and  Towns,  886. 
Warm  Springs,  N.  0^  847. 
Warm  Snrini^  Oa.,  884. 
Water  Falls  in  Canada— Niagara,  Montmoreo- 
d,  Ohandiere,  on  the  Onawa,  the  Chsu- 
dlere  near  Qnel>ec,  Btdeao,  Shawanegan, 
St  Anne%  M. 
Watering  Plaoes  in  Georgia,  884 
Watering  Plaoes  in  Alabama,  889. 
WaterrSe,  Me.,  67. 
WatertownLWia.,  860. 
WankeshaTWla.,  860. 
Weehawken,  N.  J..  llOi 
Weir's  Cave,  Va.,  880. 
Welaka,Fa.,986. 
Wells  BiTer,  8a 
WenhanL  Masa.,  7L 
West  Point,  Hndsoa  Biver,  isa 
Westoa,  Mo.,  868. 
Wheatlaad,  near  Lanoastor,   Pa.— Home  of 

James  Badianan,  lOa 
Wheeling,  Va.,  880. 
White  Iifonntdss,  N.  H.,  Bontes  thithor,  sa 

The  Ammanoosac  Biver,  98. 

The  Basin,  09. 

Cannon  Monntain,  09. 

The  Crystal  Falls,  98. 

The  Devil's  Den,  08. 

Deseriptlon  of  routes,  00. 

DixTille  Notch,  101. 

Bagle  CUfr,  00. 

Echo  Lake,  90. 

The  Flame,  100. 

The  Franoonia  Hills,  09. 

Glen  House,  04 

Great  Notch,  05. 

Hotels,  08. 

Mount  Lalhyetto,  00. 

Mt  Waahington,  08. 


Whitel 

White] 

WUt  . 

White 

White 

Whltej 

WUdr 

winii 

Wil 

Wllmii 

WUmii 

Wiltoni 

Wllliai 

WiUiaa 

Wniam 

Wlnchfl 
Windao 


loal  Aspect,  8ot- 


nrvaz. 


1    t 


4lS 


Wliit«  Mbmiteliii,  OakM^  QQli;n. 

Tlw  **  Old  nun  «f  ttw  Moim> 
teta,^  or  PidUe  Bode,  W. 
T^BsoLlOOi 
The  Pmnla  I«k«,  W. 
SoaiBMtadliMlilMitL  9& 
Th«  BIlT«r  OMMda,  M. 
Tba  Tip  Top  HonM,  96l 
Tadwrnuml  B»t1M|  97. 
Tho  imi«]r  Houe,  W. 

White  BlTor  Jimotttn,  8a 

WUte  Wktor  dtanot^  &  0.,  ML 

WhiteluU,N.T^]M 

Wbite  FUtut,  Bjuton  Baflwiy,  14& 

WUte  Btrer,  AilL,  Sli. 

WMte  Bnlphvr  Bpringi.  Kj.  SM 

WUd  Fowl  of  thfOkemfii&t,  90S. 

WiUlaiMlra^fcy»»M& 

WIlkMlMmTMM' 

wr"  ■"    " 


Wllmlagtoiii,  Del,  180. 

WiUooffbl^rUka,  VC  lOfc  ,,       _ 

WilUamrt  Ocilefe,  WIIUuiiitowB,  Mms.,  88. 

■.,88. 

inilMnetto  BlVm,  Ctar.  TV.,  884 
yall«y;  Or.  Tf.,  88K. 
Wln«hMta^ya.,flbl^ 
WindaofT, 


',Tt,80l 


WlniMlMgo  Lake,  868. 

Wlimi^MOBee  L«lw.91 

IVlnoodi  Taller  uid  Bl\  v,  yt„  lOL . 

jnaeoiMin,  State  0C88B1 

WlaeouinBlTerSmr. 

*•  WoodlaodL*'  ft  a  -Hone  of  W.  CMlmoM 

Blmina^wB. 
Woneater,  Maaa.,  681 
▼yaadotte  Oave.  Ind.,  88& 


T. 

Taaoo  Btrer,  AIfc,S89L 
Tonab  Moant,  Ga^SSL 
ToBken,  HndiwB  Blver,  ISB. 
ToriE,  Pa.,  m. 
TorkTllle,  8.  a.  Ml 
TotktoiRLandBattle  «£Ya.,  MT. 
Toaemlto  v  aDer,  OaL,  IRT. 


OaL,  8TB. 


^rilud,illoh.,MT. 


ZaiieaTU]e,0.,8U 


IPa.— Home  of 


4 

erro] 
any] 
Autt 


THE  'TRAVELLER'S  MEMORANDUM. 


\*  The  travdler  is  respeotfiiJly  soHdted  to  make  notes  of  all 
errors  and  omissioiis  wbioh  he  may  discoyer  in  this  work,  and  of 
any  new  &otB  of  interest,— and  to  send  such  memoranda  to  the 
Author,  oare  of  the  Pnblishers. 


416 


TBB  TIUVm£SB*B  lOICOItANINIlC^ 


THE  TBJlVSUJBB'S  MSICORANDUM. 


417 


-ij.z&rrv::- 


'}  -^ 


4l6 


«Hi  nuyBLuntIs  MMMonAxmoM. 


TBB  TBAYKXKB'S  iqaCQIUimDM. 


410 


430 


TBI  nuyaLUB's  mmmgranvdu. 


T 


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iVPPLETONS'  HAND-BOOK  ADVERTISER. 


TIFFANY  &  CO., 

'(late  iirWANY,  YOUNG  di  ELLIS,) 

IMPORTERS  it   MANUFACTURERS, 

No.  S50  Broadway*  New  Torb» 

aud 
Rne  RIehellen,  No.  79*  Pikris, 

IN  calling  attention  to  their  Stoek,  beg  to  pre- 
sent to  tlio  notice  of  tlieir  Friends  and  the  Public 
the  following  facts :— That  their  importations  and 
mannfactnres  in  Gold  and  Silver  cond^rise  a  more 
extensive  variety  than  any  other  honse  in  the 
same  line— that  their  foreign  connections,  of 
-which  their  Paris  honse  is  the  focal  centre,  gives 
them  extraordinary  fwsilltiea  for  the  selection  of 
their  general  stock,  and  the  execution  of  special 
orders— that  it  is  their  determination,  as  it  is 
their  intereat,  to  make  reasonable  charges  as 
prominent  a  feature  of  their  Establishment  as  the 
beauty  and  variety  of  their  stock. 

DIAXOBSS,  AND  OTHER  PBECXOVS  BIONEB. 

FINE    JEWELRY. 

CHAS.  FRODSHAJTS,  COOPER'S,  JULES  JUEQENSEN'S  &  PATEK  PHILIPPE  A  CO.'S 


SILVER  WARE,  PLATED  WARE,  TABLE  CUTLERY 

CLOCKS,  BRONZES,  ARTISTIC  GAS  FIXTURES. 

DESKS,  DRESSING-CASES,  WORK-BOXES,  JEWEL-BOXES,  FANS,  RICH 

PORCELAIN, 

'  And  many  ether  irtldeg  of  Art  and  Lnxnry. 


Every  Article  i»  marked,  in  plain  figures,  the  kneeat  Price  at  which  it  teiU  be  told. 

T.  &  CO.  cordially  extend  to  Strangers,  as  well  as  the  Resident  Public,  an  invitation  to 
inspect  their  Stock,  assn-  ing  them  that  a  call  will  niit  incur  the  least  obligation  to  purchase. 


V  % 


APPLETONS'  HAND-BOOk  ADVERTISER. 


ik,  beg  to  pre- 
tnd  the  Fublio 
portatlons  and 
iii(>riBeamore 
bouse  in  the 
onneoUons,  of 
A  centre,  gives 
lie  selection  of 
tlon  of  special 
aUon,  as  it  is 
)le'  charges  as 
ishment  as  tbe 


?PE  Ace's 


BALL,  BLACK  &  GOMPANT, 


SUOOraSOBS  TO 


MARQUAND     &    CO., 


MAMFACTUBimS  &  DfPORTEBS 


or 


SRTIl 


ASD 


ruTiii  wm. 


3DZJkX^02^3DS, 


WATCHES,  JEWELRY,  &c.. 


BROADWAY,   NEW   YORK, 


Sign  qfth6  Oolden  Eagle, 


ijfdi,      .  South  comer  of  Murray  St,  opposite  the  City  Hall. 


HENEY  BALL. 
WM.  BLACK. 
EBENEZEB  MONROE. 


6 


APPLETONS*  HAND-BOOK  ADVERTISER. 


DUNCAN,  SHERMAN  &  COMPANY, 

BANKERS, 

# 
Cor.  Pine  and  Nassan  8ta.,  Ifew  York. 

nam  oxboitiab 

LETTERS  OF  CREDIT 

FOB  TBATXIXEBS, 
▲TAILABU  IN  ALL  TBI 

.PRINCIPAL  CITIES 

OFTHB 

WORLD. 

ALSO, 

Xeroantile  Credits 

For  Europe,  &c,  on  Messm.  Geo. 
Feabodt  &  Co.,  of  London; 
and  for  India,  China,  &&,  on 
Geo.  Pbabodt  A  Ca,  or  on 
the  Oriental  Bank  Corporation 
of  London,  haying  branches 
and  agencies  at  Canton,  Hong 
Kong,  Shanghai,  Bombay,  Sin- 
gapore, Calcutta,  Madras. 


DtmoAK,  Bhzbhah  is  Co's  Bahkino  Hoitsb. 


GBZIDtTS  FOR  AUSTRALIA  ON  THB  BAZnC  OF  NEW  SOUTH 

WALES  OF  LONDON. 


BRANCHES  AND  AGENCIES  AT 

MAITLAND  AND  NEWCASTLE,         ...;.....      Hunter  River. 
BBISBANB  AND  IPSWICH,  ....;...       .       Moreton  Bay. 

VICTORIA    BRANCHES! 

Melbonme,  Geeloag,  .  Kyneton. 

CASTLEMAINE, * Mount  Alexander. 

,^  BALARATi 

SANDHURST  AGENCY, Bendlga 

0YEN8  AGENCY. 


APPLETONS'  HAND-BOOK  ADVERTISER. 


New  YorJs,  June  1««,  1857. 
DUNCAN  SHERMAN  &.  CO.'S  BUILDING. 

Wk  beg  to  announce  that  we  have  formed  a  Copartnenliip,  under  the  Name  and  Firm  of 

A.  N.  LEWIS  &  THEODORE  STOUT, 

For  the  transacting  of  a 

GENERAL  BAHEING  BUSINESS, 

Including  the  negotiating  of  LOANS.  FOREIGN  AND  DOMESTIC  EXCHANGE,  MEE- 
CANTILE  PAPER,  the  Buying  and  Selling  of  STOCKS,  BONDS,  Sco. 

Onr  experience  in  the  House  of  DUNCAN,  SHERMAN  &  CO.,  fk'om  the  commencement 
of  their  business  until  the  present  time,  to  whom  toe  take^leature  in  r^erring,  aflforda  us 
peculiar  advantages  for  conducting  the  business  we  propose.  . 

Particular  attcn  ion  will  be  given  to  Orders  for  the  Purchase  and  Sale  of  STOCKS  and 
BONDS  and  FO!  I  IGN  EXCHANGE. 

Collections  muilu  oa  all  parts  of  the  country  npon  the  most  favorable  terms. 

A.  N.  LEWIS. 
THEODORE  STOUT. 
In  addition  to  the  above  reference,  we  present,  by  permission,  the  following: 

J.  T.  SouTTKB,  Esq.,  President  of  the  Bank  of  the  Republic. 
Jambs  Barnes,  Esq.,     "  "    Merchants'  Exchange  Bank.    ^ 

WiLLiAU  B.  AsTOB,  Esq.,  New  York. 
Hon.  Wm.  Kent,  " 

Ebasttts  Cobnino,  Esq.,  Albany. 
CuAs.  H.  FisnKR,  Esq.,  Philndolphia. 


8 


APpri^rONS'  HAinXBOOE  ADVERTISER. 


R   E   M   O   V   A.   3L.  . 


E.  ^EilBT  &  COMPANY, 

IMPORTING    TAILOBS, 

ZATJS  OF  PARJK  PLACE,  NEW  YORK, 
RAVK  BEHOVED  TO  THE  NEWLT  jUtSAXOBD 

Goveniment  Bnilding,  57  Walker  Street, 

Second  Btreet  helow  Canal  Street,  West  aide  of  and  close  to  Broaatoay, 

Being  mueh  more  conrenient  ind  better  lighted  premises  than  those  they  Ibrmerlf  oocnpled 
for  sixteen  yean^  Mid  better  adapted  for  the  dttplaj  of  their  merehandise,  which  for  Elegance, 
Variety  and  Eietmt,  is  nneqoalled. 

7Ma  is  unqueiUonably  tAs  Utrgett  Ftrat  Olaa$  Otutom  Tailoring  Eitalblishment  in  2fev> 
Tork^  and  perhape  unequalled  in  ike  iaortd,  receiving  fnm 


esaixri 


■» 


By  steamers  and  sailing  vessels  thronghont  the  season,  ereir  desirable  noyelty  for 
Gentlemen's  Drea*,  and  will  be  found,  upon  inspection,  for  Style,  fiuali1/y,  and  Price,  tho 
best  honse  for  Economy  in  the  U.  S. 


APPLETONS*  HiJfD-BOOK  ADVERTISER. 


lent  in  New 


GREAT  AND  UNUSUAL  INDUCEMENTS ! 


TWENTY-FIVE  PER  CENT.  DISCOUNT 

In  first  class  Engravings,  'will  be  made  until  farther  notice  on  all  cash  pur- 

chMCsof 

LOOKING  GLASSES,  PICTURE  FRAMES, 

ENGRA\iNGS,  ARTISTS'  MATERIALS,  &o.,  &c., 

Which  will  be  sold  independently  of  the  deduction,  at  the  lowest  MARKET 

PRICES,  and  the  privilege  of  selecting  said  deduction  from  an  immense  stock 
and  great  variety  of 

FINK  ENGEAVING8, 

aiVEN  TO  EACH  PUKCHASEH. 


In  oar  LOOXINO  GLASS  Department 

may  be  had  every  variety  of  Pier,  Wall,  and  Mantel  Mirrors,  Portrait  and 
Picture  Frames,  Cornices,  Bases,  (ice.,  of  our  own  exclusive  manufacture,  from 
choice  and  original  des^ns,  not  elsewhere  to  be  obtained,  and  of  superior 
quality. 

In  oar  UNE  ART  Department 

will  be  found  first  class  impression^  of  all  the  finest  European  Engravings,  with 
a  general  assortment  of  desirable  publications. 

In  our  ARTISTS'  MATERIAL  Department 

will  be  found  (of  superior  quality  only)  every  requisite  for  the  Artist,  Amateur 
or  Pupil 

The  usual  discount  to  the  Trade  and  Schools.  Orders  by  letter  carefully 
filled  and  packed  with  the  utmost  care. 

To  the  economist,  and  all  desirous  of  obtaining  superior  quality  articles  nt 
moderate  prices,  the  above  presents  unusual  advantages.  * 

WUIIAHS,  STEVENS,  WILLIAMS  &  CO., 

353  BltO^PWJiW^  jy,  W% 


10 


APPLET0N8'  HAND-BOOK  ADVERTISER. 


STATEN    ISLAND 

FANCY  DYEINO  ESTABLISHMENT, 

OfflM,  Nos.  t  aid  S  JOHK  STBEET,  (S  Domts  tnm  BrwAway,)  New  York, 


Dye  Blbbons,  Silk,  Woolen,  and  Fancy  Gooda  of  every  deaeripUon ;  their  anperlor  style 

Dyeing  Ladies*  and  Gentlemen's  Qarmenta  is  widely  known.     Crape  Shawls  Dyed  the 

most  brilliant  or  most  grave  colors.    All  kinds  of  Shawls,  Curtains,  tea,,  elebnsed  or  re^yed. 


Ladles'  and  Gentlemen's  Garment^  Silk,  Lace,  Damask  and  Moreen  Cartains,  Dyed  or  Cleaned 
in  the  best  manner.  Carpets,  Busk,  Table  Covers,  ico..  Cleaned.  Ordeia  executed  with  care 
and  despatch.    Goods  received  and  returned  by  express, 

BARRETT,  NEPHEWS  dt  CO., 

Nos.  8  and  6  JOHN  STREET,  (9  Doors  ftom  Broadway,)  New  JTork. 

MRS.  GASKELL'S 

In  Two  Yolames,  12ino. 

With  a  Portrqit  of  Mis8  Bronte  and  a  View  of  HatBorth  Church  and 
Parsonage.    And  a  faceimile  of  the  handwriting. 

PRICE    $1    50    CLOTH. 


TIE  iin  If  [imoTTi  iiinf. 

Author  of  ^  Jane  Fyre^'^  ^'•ShirUy^^*  ♦' F«7«««j,"  <£c. 

Bt    MRS.    GASKELL, 

Author  of  ^'Mary  Barton^"  '^Eut\"  "  North  and  South:' 

The  story  of  a  woman's  life,  unfolded  in  this  book,  i»  calculated  to  make  the 
old  feel  young,  and  the  young  old.  *  f  By  all  this  book  will  be  read 
with  interest.  *  *  Mrs.  Gaskell  has  produced  one  of  the  best  bio- 
graphies of  a  woman  which  we  can  recall  to  mind. — Athenoeum. 

It  is  rarely  that  we  find  a  portrait  of  a  literary  character  with  such  a  ro 
markable  setting,  and  as  rare  to  find  an  author  whose  works  are  so  popular, 
80  vivid,  and  dbtinctive,  and  whose  personal  history  was  so  utterly  unknown. 
— London  7?mc«. 

D.  APPLETON  &  CO.,  Publishers 

346  &  348  Broadway,  Sew  York. 


AFFtETONS'  HAND-BOOK  ADVERTISER. 


u 


WHEELER  &  WILSON 

IWROVED 


MACHINES, 


■OK 


%J8a©  MS0^^^ 


FAMILIES,  MANUFACTD1R8  AND  OTHERS 


BRroGEPORT,  C50NN. 


-•♦•- 


These  Maoblnes  combine  all  the  improTements  that  have  been  invented.  Their  extensive 
and  increasing  sale,  and  the  nnantmons  approval  and  commendation  that  they  have  received, 
warrant  the  Proprietors  in  warmly  recommending  them.  They  have'  been  in  nse  snfflcienUy 
long  to  test  them  thoroughly,  and  have  given  entire  satisfaction. 

They  are  very  simple  in  oonstmctlon,  efficient  in  operation,  and  fitted  to  adorn  a  lady's 
parlor,  and  suited  to  the  workshop ;  equally  applicable  to  family  csb  and  the  wants  of  the 
tailor,  seamstress,  cloak  maker,  shirt  and  collar  manafactnrer,  &e. 

The  Proprietors  feel  confident  that  their  Machines  in  the  present  form  are  the  best  ever 
offered  to  the  public,  and  refer  for  confirmation  of  this  opinion  to  the  thousands  of  fSunilies  and 
manufacturan  who  have  them  in  use. 

Among  tiie  undoubted  advantages  that  they  possess  over  all  others,  are : 

Ist  BMuty  and  simplicity  of  constroction,  and  consc<]uent  freedom  trove,  derangement  and 
aeed  of  repairs. 

2d.  Unexampled  ease  and  rapidity  of  operation. 

8d.  Noiseless  movement 

4th.  The  remarkable  perfection  of  their  stitching,  and  their  apQlicabiJity  to  a  variety  of 
purposes  and  materials. 

An  examination  of  these  machines,  aad  specimens  of  their  work,  is  respectfully  solicited,  at 
tbeL 

PRINCIPAL  OFFICE, 
No.    343    BKOADWAY,   NEW    YORK, 

AND    AT    THEIR    AGENCIES, 

13  Bt.  Charles  81^,  New  Odeans.  126  Baltimore  Si,,  Baltimore. 

38  South  Seventh  St^  Philadelphia.      87  Fourth  Street,  St.  Louia,  Mo. 
3  Albany  Street,  Troy,  N.  T.  63  Court  Street,  Boston. 

169  Lake  St.,  Chicago,  IIL 


12 


APPLETONS'  HAND-BOOK  ADVERTISER. 


SEWING 

MAOfflNES. 


Thesk  Machines  have  an  established  re- 
putation all  over  the  civilized  world, 
some  of  their  main  practical  advan- 
tages over  other  machines,  for  similar 
purposes,  are  as  follows : 

1st  Th«7  an  rap«rtor  in  contrlTance.  Many  distinct  improvements,  secured  bv  nnmerons 
patents,  are  combined  in  them,  and  the  minute  perfections  attained  by  years  of  laborious  and 
costly  experimenting  h^ve  been  added  to  them. 

8d.  They  are  superior  in  mechanical  workmanship.  No  attempt  has  ever  been  made  at 
expensive  ornamentatinn,  but  all  the  working  parts  of  our  machines  are  made  with  the  highest 
possible  finish,  without  regard  to  the  cost 

8d.  They  are  more  profitable  to  the  user  than  any  other.  The  fair  average  dear  profit  of 
one  of  these  machines,  regularly  employed,  is 

ONE  THOUSAND  DOIiliABS  A  TEAR. 

4th.  They  are  universal  In  their  application  to  practical  work.  With  the  same  machine  fine 
muslin  may  be  stitched  with  the  finest  cotton  thread,  every  description  of  tailoring  work  be 
done,  and  shoes,  harness,  or  other  leather  stitching  be  executed,  and  each  of  these  kinds  of  work 
be  performed  better  than  by  any  other  machine. 

6tb.  They  are  more  durable  and  less  liable  to  get  out  of  order  than  any  other.  This  results 
necessarily  fh>m  their  perfect  contrivance  and  construction. 

6tfa.  For  Family  and  Plantation  Sewing,  our  Machines  are  vastly  superior  to  any 
other.  Fragile  and  delicate  sewing  maehinei^  made  to  please  the  eye  merely,  are  recommended 
for  fiimily  use.  They  will  not  answer  the  purpose.  Family  sewing'machtnes  onght  to  be  stronger 
than  any  other,  as  greater  variety  of  work  is  required  of  them,  and  they  go  into  less  skilful 
handai 

7th.  Whoever  buys  one  of  our  machines  knows  to  a  certainty  it  will  perform  the  work 
required. 

8tb.  Our  machines  mske  a  tut  stitch,  that  will  neither  rip,  ravel,  nor  pnll  out 

fW^  All  persons  wishing  fall  information  about  Sewing  Machines,  Prices,  Sizes,  &c.,  can 
ohtatn  it  by  applying  at  either  of  our  Offices,  by  letter,  for  a  copy  of  I.  M.  SiKoiea  St  Co.'s 
Oazettb,  a  paper  entirely  devoted  to  the  subject    It  will  be  sent  gratis. 


I.  M.  SINGER  &  CO. 
Principal  Office,  458  Broadway,  New  Tork. 


BRANCH    OFFICES: 


141  ChMtorat  Stnct,  Philadelphia. 
47  Kiin"ver  Strest,  Boston. 
Mi  HHltimore  Straet,  Baltimore. 
114  Hrnail  Street,  Newark. 
119  CUrk  Stitet,  Cliicago.  ' 


81  Westminiter  Street,  Providence. 
381  Broadway,  Albany. 
Gloveriviile,  N.  V. 
91  Ch«)>el  Street,  New  Haven. 
65  North  4th  Street,  New  Orleans. 


8  East  4th  Street,  Cincinnati. 

81  St.  Charles  Street,  New  Orleans 

90  Danphin  Street,  Mobile. 

ChnrlesUin,  S.  C. 

St.  I/)uis,«5  N.  Foraytb'fit.,E.I>eaD. 


APPLETONS*  HAND-BOOK  ADVERTISER, 


18 


This  results 


MESSENGER'S  LONDON  CORDIAL  GIN. 

A  Perfectly  Pore  Tonio  and  Invigorating  CordiaL 

This  medicinal  b«Terage  is  manofaotared  in  London  under  the  rigoroiu 
espionage  of  the  Excise  Police,  in  accordance  with  tiie  Excise  Laws  of  Great 
Britain  (which  punish  with  heavy  penalties  the  advdteration  of  any  article 
desired  for  food  or  drink),  from  the  finest  of  barley,  impregnated  with  the 
ohoieest  tonics  of  the  Materia  Medica.  It  has  been  submitted  to  the  severest 
chemical  tests,  and  acknowledged  to  be  free  from  any  ddeterious  innedients, 
and  recommended  as  a  perfectly  pure  stimulant  and  beverage  byDr.  A.  A. 
Haves,  State  Assaver,  of  Mass.,  Dr.  Chilton,  the  celebrated  chemist ;  Professor 
Hale  of  London,  Drs.  Castle,  Turner,  Whitney,  Beakley,  Adams  and  Richard, 
and  several  hundred  physicians  in  every  part  of  the  United  States,  who  eon- 
stantlyprescribe  it  in  their  practice  for  Icidney  and  gravel  complaints,  dyspepsia, 
gout,  rheumatism,  general  depression  and  debility.  Where  the  water  is  Dad  or 
unwholesome — in  low  or  swampy  ground,  or  fever  and  ague  districts,  this  arti* 
cle  will  be  fouud  a  positive  cure  and  permanent  preventive. 

It  is  put  np  ill  qusi't  and  pint  bottles  at  50  ots.  and  $1  each,  with  the  words  **B.  E.  3f««$«nger 
<ft  (7o/«  London  Cordial  &<»,"  blown  in  the  glass,  neatly  labelled  and  enveloped.  Tbe  labels 
are  copyrighted  in  New  York. 

S.  E.  MESSEKOER  ft  Co.,  Importen,  58  Enlton  St,  H.  T. 

GAtmox— In  Borohasing,  be  sure  that  it  is  absolutely  "  Mbssengcr^b,"  as  several  Now  Toric 
and  Ghicago  spirit-mixers  are  swindling  the  public  with  a  counterfeit,  which  they  represent  as 
their  own  Importation.  Every  bottle  of  real  London  Cordial  Gin  is  imported  by  u^  and  bean 
the  signature  of  K.  £.  Mbmbnokb  &  Co. 


F.  STEINFZIZiD,  BSQ. 


Sole  Agent  for  the  United  State^  for  the  sale  of  the  celebrated 

BILIOUS  &  CHOLERA  COONAC  BITTERS, 

THE  WONDER  OF  THE  WORLD.— This  valuable  compound  was  prepared  in  Europe,  and 
brought  to  its  present  state  of  perfection  and  nseftilness  after  years  of  toil  and  research.  It  has 
been  used  in  many  of  the  first  hospitals,  and  received  the  approbation  of  the  most  celebrated 
physicians  in  the  old  country.  In  the  United  Stales,  particularly  in  this  city,  as  well  as  Europe, 
it  has  received  the  most  unbounded  approbation ;  and  it  has  never  failed  in  one  single  instance 
to  prodnce  a  perfect  cure.  No  family  should  t>e  without  it  an  hoar,  as  many  valnabte  lives  may 
bo  saved  by  Its  use.  For  Cholera,  Diarrhoea,  or  Bilious  complaints,  it  is  without  a  rival  in  the 
liistory  of  Aedicine.  As  a  preventive  or  remedy  for  the  Cholera,  Diarrhoea,  Billons  attacks,  Ac, 
it  \*  pronounced  without  an  equal ;  and  among  the  Allied  Troops  in  the  Crimea,  it  has  been  used 
with  the  most  distinguished  success,  giving  the  patient  perfect  relief  in  five  minutes.  It  is  also 
an  excellent  promotive  of  Digestion,  restores  the  tone  of  a  disorisfanized  stomach,  and  stlmulatss 
tlie  appetite.  As  a  beverage,  it  will  take  pre-eminent  rank,  being  perfectly  pure  and  unadulter- 
ated, and  exceedingly  pleasant  to  tlie  tast«!,  and  it  may  be  drank  with  the  utmost  safety,  as  only 
Kmall  quantities  are  necessary  to  prodnce  the  desired  effect.  Such  we  have  invariably  found  it 
whenever  wo  have  used  it;  and  we  are  never  without  a  bottle  or  two  in  oar  bouse. 

Mr.  Steinfeld's  Depot  i«  Nn.  70  NnnNnii  Street,  S.  E.  comer  of  John  Street,  New 
York,  where  all  persons  calling  will  be  attended  to  with  the  utmost  promptness. 


14 


APPLETONS'  HAND-BOOK  ADVERTISER. 


J.  R.  STAFFORD'S 


AM  ACCCBATB  TIEW  or 


Is  applied  Md  inhaled ;  It  h  tho  only 
llnid  that  oontslns  Electro- Magnet- 
Isui,  wbloh  it  Imparta  to  the  body,  in- 
creasing  its  VITALITY,  enabling  it 
at  once  to  expol  Pain  and  DmiASR. 
The  following  are  the  names  of  a  few 
well*known  persona  who  have  used 
OliTo  Tar,  and  who  commend  its  use 
fiir  Diseases  of  the  Thboat,  Lungs, 
NaavM  MuaoLU,  Joints,  Skin,  Sk, 

twM  V.  rowlcr,  PoflmMter,  Em.,  N.  York. 
QeorM  LkW,  Em^  Fifth  Avtnu*,  •• 

Jowtpli  L.  Lord,lCM|.,  II  WMl  St.,  " 

J.  11.  Ladd.  Km.,  Pub.  of  rndcmndmt,  « 
Dr.  E.  Brickt,  Editor  Ezmninfx,  « 

CliH.  Vu  wyok,  Em.,  Pro.  Obrit.  Intel.  •• 
Robert  B.  GoUmm,  Eiq.  Aitor  Hnnii>,  " 
Simoon  DnkMr,  Em.  oor.  Pine  dt  WUluun*' 
Col.  Dmlel  Riehardi,  14  Broadway,  " 
B.  R.  Yale,  Eiq.,  Maneion  Home.'B'ktD. " 
Wm.  B.  Towuend,  Km.  Statan  blond,  '" 
Thnrlow  Weed,  Em.  Albany,  ■• 

John  M.  Barnard,  CSeq.  Boalon,  Mam. 
Oen.  Dnir  Green,  Waehlngton,  D.  C. 
R#T.  Dr.  Leonard,  Eseter.  N.  H. 
Rev.  R.  H.  Conklln,  ProTidenee,  R.  I. 
Rev.  B.  C.  Taylor,  Bergen,  N.  J. 
A.  H.  Barney,  Kiq.  Clereland,  Ohio. 
John  J.Speed,  Eeq.,  Detroit,  Miehinn. 
Hon.  David  A.  Noue,  Monroe,  fttienlgaa. 


WW,  nuvuigi 

I.,  California. 
Ucago,  Illlnoii. 


John  B.  Steenb 

John  F.  Wamer-lCtq.,  CL 

Gen.  Caiaaeaa,  Teua. 

Olive  Tar  is  sold  at  ffO 


East  side  of  the  Battery,  New  York,     gists. 


Cents  a  Bottle,  by  the 
Stavford  Olive  Tar  Co., 
If  State  Street,  (East 
side  of  Battery,)  New 
York,  and  by  all  Drug- 


f  1000.  For  a  valnable  consideration  ^e  bare  fkimlshed  to  J.  B.  Stafiobd,  Esq.,  Praoti- 
OAL  GnBHiST.  No.  16  Bute  Street,  New  York,  a  selection  of  0N£  HUNDRED  of  out  CHOIC- 
EST RECEIPTS  for  COOKING,  BAKING,  dec,  the  same  being  In  constant  use  In  our  HotcL 
The  receipt '  selected  are  those  which  are  best  adapted  to  the  use  of  private  fiunilles. 


AprU  6th,  1857. 


SIMEON  LELAND  dc  CO.,  Mztbopoutan  Hotxl,  If^ew  York. 


The  above  Receipts  have  been  added  to  J.  R.  Staffosd's  Famllv  Receipt  Book,  which  now 
contains  over  2S0  Household  and  other  Receipts,  all  practical  and  nearly  all  fiew.  The  book 
also  contains 

A  SPLEHDIS  ANATOMICAL  CEABT  OF  THE  HUMAN  BODY, 

TWENTY-FOUR  ILLVSTBATlONS. 

This  chart  should  be  hnngnp  in  every  family  sitting  room,  where  it  could  be  studied  by 
every  member  of  the  family.  The  book  and  chart  will  be  sent  free  qf  postage,  on  receipt  of 
^gSr  12  cents  or  stamps  jg^  by  J.  R.  STAFFORD,  PrJoctical  Chemist,  16  State  St,  New  York. 


Agents  wanted  to  sell  J.  R.  STAFFORD'S  Family  Receipt 
Book.     Great  chances  will  be  afforded  to  active  Agents. 


APPLETl^NS'  HAND-BOOK  ADVERTISER. 


15 


AFPLETONB'    FUBUKHINa    XBTABLI8HHKMT. 

D.    APPLETON   &   COMPANY, 

816  &  t48  BROADWAY,  NEW  TORE, 

liSiLLEiS,  PiiLISiil 


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Instltations,  the  Trade,  and  the  Pnbllo  generally,  to  their  very  eztdnalTO  and  Choice  C!olIection 

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■tt  Itt   12.2 

t  |£°    12.0 

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|1.25|U 

lyi^ 

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6"    - 

► 

Fhotograjjiic 

Sciences 

Corporalion 


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WnSTIR,N.Y.  MSM 

(716)t72-4S03 


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A. 


4" 


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AFPLETTONS'  HAND-BOOK  ADVERTISER. 


AMERICAN 


coMi>A:]srY. 

■♦>      • 

Tbis  Company  has  lines  extending  all  over  the  Nev  England  States,  also  to 
Canada  and  tlie  Eastern  British  Provinees,  connecting  irith  all  the  lines  in 
America,  and  to  connect  directly  with  the  line  across  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 

There  are  Telegraph  Statimis  in  every  considerable  town  and  village,  and 
despatches  wiU  be  forwarded  from  any  of  than  to  all  parts  of  the  country. 

THE    OFFICES    ARE: 

In  Nxw  YoBx,  at  No.  21  Wdl  Street; 
AiAANT,  Bank  Building,  Broadway ; 

SpBiNokiiLD,  Mass.,  Western  B.  R.  Building,  opposite  the  Depot; 
Nbw  Haven,  Conn.,  Adelphi  Building,  opposite  the  R.  R.  Depot ; 
WoBOESTiB,  Mass.,  in  the  Lincoln  House ; 
Bosioir,  No.  81  State  Street;  * 

Providknci^ 
■  RonjkND,  Yt,  in  R.  R.  Depot ; 
PoimAia),  Me.,  cor.  Exchange  and  Middle  Streets. 

__— — _— — ^  • 

For  a  despatch  containing  ten  words  or  less  a  certain  rate  is  charged,  and 
an  additional  sum  for  any  words  over  ten.  The  datCi  address  and  signature 
are  not  counted. 

The  following  list  of  rates  will  indicate  those  usually  charged  between  the 
numerous  stations : 

FROM    NEW    YORK   TO 

New  Hawen, «. 26  o«nts. 

Baxtfoid. 26  « 

Springfiflld, 26  «« 

Woxoeater, 26  <* 

Pirovtdanoe, 26  « 

Bolton, 40  « 

AlbMiy, 37  « 

MontTML 60  « 

Bnffido, 60  ** 

Pbiladolptaia, 40  " 

PETER  COOPER,  President, 
JAMES  EDDY,  General  Sup't. 


APPLETONS*  HAND-BOOK  ADVERTISER. 


17 


istes,  alno  to 
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Ocean, 
village,  and 
onntry. 


epot; 
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[barged,  and 
|d  signatare 

letween  the 


Its. 
u 

M 
CI 
M 
it 

a 

M 

tt 

teaident. 


"THE   ROOT" 

PHOTOGRAPHIC  AND  FINE  ART  GALLERY, 

sea  BROADWAT,  Cor.  Eraiddbi  Street,  New  Terk. 

PARIS  &  ERWIN,  Artists. 

Diaphaneotypes^ 

Photographs^ 


AMD 


Daguerreotypes, 


Together  with  every  style  of  Picture  that  can  be  prodnoed  by  the  agents  of  light 

The  DiAPHAHxoTT?!,  ail  entirely  new  and  beantifitl  style  of  Colored  Fiotnre,  tntrodoeed 
and  made  only  at  the  "Boot  OaXUryJ*  A  talented  oorj^  of  French,  German  and  American 
Artists  engaged.    The  public  are  luTlted  to  examine  the  numerous  specimens  on  exhibition. 


F.  yr.  BHIN£LA]n)£B. 


JAMES  A.  BOOBMAN. 


EDWIN  A.  POST. 


RHINELANDEE,  BOOKMAN  &  CO., 

RAILWAY  AGENTS 


AND 


COMMISSION   MERCHANTS, 

SVFFLT 

ALL  MATERIAL  AND  ARTICLES  USED  IN  THE  CONSTRUCTION  AND 

OPERATING  OP  RAILWAYS 

BASE  or  COHHEBCE  BUILDnrG,  HEW  TOBX. 


•  •• 


Rbfkb  to— John  A.  Stevena,  Esq.,  Premdent  Bank  of  Commerce;  James 
Boorman,  Esq. ;  SamL  Sloan,  Esq.,  President  Hudson  Riyer  Railroad  Co. ; 
Messrs.  Cooper  &  Hewitt;  Messrs.  Duncan,  Sherman  &  Co.,  and  Messrs.  Still- 
man,  Allen  &  Co. 


18 


APPLETONS'  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


APPLETONS' 

IllUSTEATED  RAILWAY  &  STEAM  NATIGATION 


GUIDE, 


Oontaining  70  MapSi  and  a  large  9teel  Plate  Map. 

Publislied  nContUFy 

UNDER  THE  SUPERVISION  OF  THE  RAILROAD  COMPANIES. 

Cni¥lidiig  the  fettues  t f  a  HAeAZDnB  with  those  ef  ft  BAILWAT  GUIDE. 
One  V*oluime,  300  pages*   Price  95  Cents, 


<  WHAT  IT  COllTAinS; 

1.  The  AUTHORIZED  ADVERTISEMENTS  of  the  PRINCIPE  RAIL- 
WAT  COMPANIES,  which  give  more  information  than  Time  Tables  alone  can 
give. 

2.  It  gives  CORRECT,  FULL,  and  RELIABLE  TIME  TABLES,  corrected 
by  Officers  of  Railroad  Companies. 

3.  It  is  a  GUIDE  published  at  the  request,  and  with  the  sanction,  of  a  large 
number  of  Railroad  Companies. 

4.  It  contains  SEVENTY  MAPS,  delineating  most  of  the  railways,  their 
connections,  distances,  stations,  ito. — a  new  feature,  pronounced  by  the  Rail- 
road Companies  and  Travelling  Public  an  invaluable  one. 

6.  An  INDEX  of  nearly  2,000  Principal  Towns. 

6.  Diverging  routes  of  Travel 

7.  NEW  READING  MATTER  of  interest  to  the  traveller,  not  contained 
in  former  numbers. 

8.  A  GAZETTEER  of  TOWNS  through  which  the  raihx>ads  pass. 

0.  A  STEAMBOAT  DIRECTORY,  containing  an  account  of  the  sailings  of 
steamers  and  steamboats. 

10.  A  GUIDE  TO  THE  PRINCIPAL  HOTEIfl  in  aU  parts  of  the  United 
States  and  the  Canadai. 

11.  RAILWAYS  AND  THEIR  PROGRESS. 

12.  ANECDOTES  and  INCIDENTS  of  TRAVEL,  by  River  and  Rail,  new 
in  every  number. 

18.  Biographies  of  Presidents  of  Railway  Companies,  with  Portraits. 

For  Mrie  by  the  Beys  li  the  Can,  BoolDMllen  aid  News  igeats  generaUy* 


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.ii^MAi^ 


u  I  ! 

''^  PM  It  Kl  FKAML 


0 


!>  [   ,  hi  w 


I  f-  v/-vr  R  k 


PI 


^/^.-?1^^^N^ 


HOKAOE   V.    SiaLER, 

iiOOKi]¥«  «i,Ass  Anrn  piqwRE  frame 

Wonld  nspectAdly  iDform  his  Mends  snd  the  public  genersllf,  that  In  eonseqaence  of  bis  old 
established  premises,  Nob.  69  and  71  Forsyth  Street;  haying  been  destroyed  by  flie,  he  has 
fiemoved  to  the  large  and  commodions  Buildings, 

888,  390,. 4;   892  OBEEHWIGE  STBEET, 

OOBNEB  BEACH,  NEW  TOBK, 

Where  he  solicits  yonr  fovors,  feeling  assured  he  can  ftamish  yon  ivith  every  article  in  his  line  oi 
the  best  nutortal  and  workmanship,  and  as  low  as  any  other  manufactory  in  the  city.  Every 
description  of  Looking  Olasses,  Picture  and  Portrait  Frames,  Plain  and  Ornamental  Pier,Wali 
and  Mantel  Glasses,  <%nnectlnk  Oomices,  Haze  and  Bracket  Tables,  with  Marble  Slabs,  Toilet 
Glasses,  Oilt,  Berlin,  Bosewood,  Walnut,  Oak,  Maple,  Zebra  and  Mahogany  Moulding  in  lengths 
for  shipping.    Old  Fnunes  re-gilt    Plates  put  in  dd  Frames. 


I?  LOOK  !NC;   , 


( U  .  \  S"  s 


Kl  I  K  AMI  '  ; 


20 


APFLETONB*  HAKI>-BOOE  ABYERTISEB. 


HEALTH  DEPENDS  UPOH  PUBE  BLOOD! 

Tbln  u^  Mrid  blood  eunot  Moroto  bealthy  bile,  and,  tbonlbn^  Uio  flnttUng  Ibr  thoae  who 
*ra  dyipeptte  should  bo  to  oommonoo  the  puifleation  of  their  blood. 

BBANDBETH'S    PILLS 

Not  onlrjnirUy,  bot  thqr  make  the  blood  richer,  and  add  thoae  prlnelpka  upon  which  ita  power 
to  refllst  dweaae  dependBi 

Mod  oraBAtiom  wm  avoonavuL  •atwai  abb  Tm  nonuABtn  or  "Bmtamcwne*  Pills. 
Now  that  we  BMy  BOW  exMct  (snlal  Spring,  It  If  of  mat  Importanee  that  a  ftw  doses  bo  oaed  bv 
the  wise.  Onr  raee  Is  aabjeet  to  a  redondanoy  of  vraated  ule  at  thia  aaason,  aad  w  is  as  daager- 
out  as  It  Is  prevalent;  b«t  Braadreth**  PlUs  aflbrd  an  InTalnaUe  and  effldent  protection.  B/ 
tbeir  oooasfcwal  nsci  we  prevent  the  odieotlon  of  those  Imporltlea  whieli|  when  in  aoffldent  onsn- 
tities  eanse  so  mora  daBJBer  to  the  line  orgaoa  of  the  stomadi  and  boweik  Thejr  aoon.eue  liver 
complaint^  dyspepsia,  loss  of  appetltajialn  In  the  head,  heartbnm,  pain  In  the  tweast-bona^  sadden 
iUntne8^  and  oostlveBesai  In.nrfei;  Brandietht  Pills  woric  their  way  to  the  very  roota  of  the 
disease,  cleansing  in  their  paasagia,  removing  every  unhealthy  accnmnwion,  till  the  blood  is  pn> 
rifled,  the  whol^  system  renovated,  and  the  fbnotiona  and  dntlea  o£Ii£»  become  a  pleasnra,  where 
beflne  thay  have  been  sad  and  weary  burdens. 

We  have  thoosands  of  similar  testimonials  to  the  following^  and  snob  evidence  can  be  bad 
ftom  living  witnesses  aU  aronnd  na  on  every  side.  It  is  flrom  a  gentleman  of  hl^  respectability, 
whose  letter  Can  be  seen  at  the  prlndpoloffloei,    He  writes: 

"  I  am  now  flfty-two  yean  of  age.  •  »  *  For  twenty  yean  I  have  need  yoar 
Pllla  as  my  ftmlly  medicine,  and  I  wish  no  other  I  and  I  have  never  had  occasion  to  call  a  pby- 
aidan  in  my  fiumly,  (save  in  the  aiekness  of  my  wlfis  with  ehildi^n)  daring  the  twenty  years." 

IBUB  XEDKDffAL  FSOIOIFIBB, 

Never  extract  blood.  Blood  Is  the  llfb.  By  abstracting  it  in  painfUl  diseaaea  von  may  occa> 
slon  the  patient  ease,  bat  rtmembtr  thia  ease  <•  only  th*  reduoUon,  or  Ut»mung,  th» power 
to  JM.  And  by  thus  taking  away  nature's  tools,  you  may  prevent  her  from  ftally  repairing  tbe 
ravages  of  Inflammation,  and  convert  what  might  only  have  been  the  slekness  ra  a  nw  days  or 
weeks  Into  a  chronic  alfectlon  of  months  or  yeara 

FDBOnrG  BT  1IEAX8  07  BBAHDBBXH'B  PZUJS. 

This  Is  the  mesne  which  accords  with  nature— natare*s  remedy  in  ihot  When  sudden,  aonte^ 
or  oonttnued  pain  ocenrst  then  to  insure  security  you  must  take  a  medldne  that  will  surdy 
purge.   There  must  be  no  shllly^haUying,  because  every  minute  lost  may  be  flttaL 

BUiVEBIVO. 

We  know  that  if  the  perspiration  be  suddenly  cbeAed,  our  sensationa  soon  sonnd  the  alarm. 
Why  is  this  r  It  la  beoause  the  perq>lratlon  Is  thrown  bade  Into  the  blood  and  retards  Its  hedtib- 
fhl  dnmUtlon,  occasioning  In  persons  already  predisposed  to  disease  that  feeling  of  8Uiy£IUN0 
wbidh  Is  conunonly  called 

'^CATCHING    COLDr 

Sudden  changes  of  weather,  from  warm  to  cold,  or  ftom  cold  to  warm,  are  always  apt  to  be 
productive  of  doknesa,  unless  people  are  careftal  tu  use  Brandreth>  PiUa  when  the  flnt  qrmp- 
toms  of  "  catching  odd,*'  or  other  feeling  contrary  to  hedth,  manifests  itseU 

"  All  ye  who  languor,  droop  and  flide^ 
Or  ye  whom  flercer  illness  thrill^ 
Odl  the  blest  compound  to  your  dd, 
Trnst.to  Brandreth^s  predons  Pills.'* 

Brandreth's  PIII4  the  prolongen  and  aweetenen  of  life,  are  add  at 

Principal  Office,  No.  43  Brandreth's  Building, 

416   4e   417   SXlO^D'W^A.-7. 

AH  Pills  with  841  Broadway  on  the  box  are  counterfeit   Tbe  genuine  are  sold  by  respecta- 
ble dedcn  every  where. 


APPLETONS'  HAND-BOOK  ADYERTIBEB. 


21 


ing  tat  tliOM  who 


1  whleh  lis  power 


L  tbe  flni  qrmp- 


aUIDE     BOOKS, 

PiMlih0<  ky  D.  APFLETOI  *  C*.,  ta  fc  tl8  BrMuliraj,  Jttv  T«ik. 


'••»■ 


I. 


APPLETONS' 

Ittttsirated  Saitums  and  SiUm  Ifrnjijatlon 


Oontuning  Seventy  Maps.  Pablished  Monthly,  under  the  sapervision  of 
the  Railroad  Oompanies.  One  Yolnme,  288  pages.  Price  Twenty-five 
Cents.    Sabscription  price,  Three  Dollars  per  annnm. 


II. 

APPLETONS'  ILLUSTRATED 

HANB-BOOK  OF  AMERICAN  TRAVEL; 

A  fall  and  reliable  Guide  by  Railway,  Steamboat,  and  Stage,  to  the  Cities, 
Towns,  Waterfalls,  Mountains,  Rivers,  Lakes,  Hnnting  and  Fishing 
Groandfl,  Watering  Places,  Summer  Resorts,  and  all  Scenes  and  objects  of 
importance  and  interest  in  the  United  States  and  the  Britisli  Provinces. 
By  T.  Addison  Richards,  N.  A.  With  careful  Maps  of  all  parts  of  the 
Country,  and  pictures  of  famous  places  and  scenes,  from  original  drawings 
by  the  Author  and  other  artists.    1  vol.  12mo.,  over  400  pages. 


III. 

OE, 

COMPUESTE  FISHER'S  MANUAL, 

FOR  THE  UNITED  STATES; 

With  Twenty-Three  Illustrations  of  the  principal  Angle-Fish  of  America, 
and  upwards  of  Seventy  Illustrations  on  Steel,  Stope,  and  Wood.  One 
Volume,  850  pages.    Price  $1.60. 


22 


APPLETOKS'  HAND-BOOK  ADVERTISEB. 


J.  F,  BROWNE  &  CO., 


2  95    BRO  A.D  W^  A.  Y, 

NEW    YORK. 
SnUNGS,  MUSIC,  AND  E¥ERT  ARTICLE  CONNECTED  WITH  THE  HJAP. 

Prices  and  Descriptions  forwarded  by  Mail. 


APPLETONS'  HAND-BOOK  ADVERTISER.. 


28 


SO 


ral  iDformation,  copies 
,^^^of  testimonials 

BREWERY,    >^^j^from  the  leading 
TBEHT, 


The  undersigned, 
Sole   Agent   for^^^i^ 
Meeisrs.  Samuel ., 

\y  j>wj»j.vM  v»  •«-Tr--,  ^     >^^  physiciansand 

^°^  '!p^"1   GdidiU     mm^/a^.    |chemistsof 

ton  on  Trent,ll '  goi.E  agent.  ||  the  day,  as  to 

for  the  sale  of  Vv    A  5  g^.  wmiam  St.,^ 

^^\     fr^«™«.     -^JJ^ad vantages  and 

i^^J^  ^^eflScient  tonic  pro- 


this  celebrated  ^^^ 
English  Ale,  begs 
to  subjoin  for  gene 


perties  of  this  Ale. 


moM  BAXoa  ixnaa, 

Tha  ipMlBMHi  of  your  p«l«  •!•  Mat  to  ma  affordad 
ma  aaotbar  opportnalty  of  eooflnniDr  ito  TalnaUa  qnali- 
tiaa.  I  am  myaalf  an  admirar  of  thla  bavaraga,  and  my 
own  azpariaaga  anablaa  ma  to  iroommand  it,  in  aacordanoa 
with  tlia  opinion  of  tha  moat  aminant  Engllih  pbyiieiana, 
aa  a  yary  agraaahla  and  aOciant  tonia,  and  aa  a  ganaial 
bararaga,  both  for  Iha  invaUd  and  tha  foboat. 

tfwMMsUay*. 

vsoM  pmovsaaoB  obarah,  f .  b.  a.  UMiTBBairy  ooLuaa, 

UMDOM,  AND  PBOnaaOB  HOMAMI,  FR.  D.,  r.  B.  a.  COI.- 
LtOB  or  OHUmiBV,  LOMOOW. 

Tha  aiftittg  natnra  of  tha  ehamieal  azamination  which 
tha  baan  of  Maian.  Alliopp'*  maanihstara  for  many 
montha  paat  hava  baan  aotjaetad  to,  fully  aatabliihea  thair 
inaoataatiUa  purity.  Tha  proeaaa  of  brawing  pala  ala  ii 
ona  in  whtab  nothing  but  water  and  tha  -beat  malt  and 
hopa,  of  tha  llrat  qoality,  an  oaad ;  it  ia  an  oparation  of 
tha  graatoat  dalieaay  and  cara,  which  woaU  ba  antiraly 
ruinad  by  anv  tampariog  with  tha  matoriala  amployad. 

Xoadoa,  April  i6. 

raOK  THB  ABALTTIOAI.  alNIVABT  COHHIlatORBB  OF  THB 
"LANOir,"    MAY  15,  1862. 

From  the  para  and  wholaaoma  u;:t..ra  of  the  Ibgtadienta 
amployad,  tha  moderate  proportion  of  aiaobol  pitsant,  and 
the  yary  eonaidarabla  onantity  of  aramatio  anodyne  bitter 
derived  fkoin  hope  eonlained  in  theoe  beera,  tkoy  tend  to 
preearre  tha  tone  and  vigor  of  tha  atomaeh,  and  conduce 
tu  the  raetomtion  of  tha  health  of  that  organ  when  in  a 
■tato  of  weakneta  or  debility. .  They  reaemUe,  indeed, 
from  their  lightneia,  a  wine  of  malt  rather  tlian  an  ordina- 
ry fermented  htfuaioa ;  and  It  ia  vary  iatiifaotory  to  find 


that  a  bararaga  of  aoeh  general  aonaamption  ia  antiialy 
free  from  avaiy  kind  of  Impurity. 

.      nU>H  JAMM  FRBIB,  M.  D. 

For  many  vaara  I  have  bean  In  tha  baUt  of  raaommaad- 
ine  the  uaa  of  Allaopp'a  bitter  beer  aa  a  bavaraga  to  inva- 
lida  who  rvqnirad  •  ragalatad  diet ;  and  I  aartainly  aonld 
not  have  doaa  aa,  nnlaia  from  tha  avidenea  that  tha  liquor  ' 
waa  parfaatly  fermented,  and  made  flrom  tha  beat  and 
moat  whoteiome  ingredianla.  Where  drinka.of  •  nutriUvo 
and  atomaehle  eharaeter  are  indicated,  I  know  of  Bana.  aa 
yet,  on  which  I  feel  (  conld  ao  aably  depend  for  doing 
good,  aa  Allaonp't  bitter  beer. 
xi«<i7«o/,'May  6. 

FBoM  J.  B.  rippBB,  r.  c  a.,  a,  o.  B.,  m,,  rBovcaaoB 

OF  CHBHlaTBT,  BOVAL  POtYTIOHMIO  IKaTITtrTIOM. 

I  have  azamined  a  great  many  aamplea  of  the  Utter 
beer  brewed  by  tha  Arm  of  Maun.  Allaopp- Jk  Sana,  and  I 
cannot  by  ehamtcal  analyaia  dieeovar  any  other  matter  but 
that  proenrabla  flrom  malt,  hope,  and  water.  From  my 
own  experience,  leoniider  it  a  moit  wholeaome  lievemge, 
well  adapted  to  thoee  in  health,  and  calculated  to  atrength- 
en  and  inviaorato  the  ayatem  in  hot  elimatea. 
Aoyot  P«(j!feeA«<e  /aKitiUion,  June  U. 

.  FBOM  BBnJAMnf  TBAViBa,  Baq,,  r.  b.  a. 
I  do  not  faeaitoto  to  affirm  that  no  deleterioua  sobatanea 
ia  emplayed  in  Allaopp'a  pale  ale,  and  bitter  beer,  and  that 
my  eonfidenee  in  ite  wnoleaoraeneia  aa  a  beveraga  remain* 
nnahahen. 

fifrMit  8ina,  April  30. 
And  many  othera  which  may  be  inipe:ted  at  my  offlee. 


AUsopp**  Ale  on  Draught  in  New  York. 


L.  DelmonlM,  Baavar  and  William  atreaia. 

Reilly,  Noa.  81  and  83  Pine  atraat. 

Atior  Honaa  Hotel,  Broadway. 

Sutherland'*,  No.  18  Pine  atiaet. 

Tavlor'a  Saloon,  Broadway. 

Steven*'  Houm,  (late  Oelmonieo'a)  Broadwni-. 

John  Keefe,  (UiMier  tha  Metropolitan)  Broadway. 

Ben  Honev,  the  "CNBca,"  Honaton  atreet. 

MePyke,  Prinea  atreet. 

Georira  w.  Brown,  Water  atreet 

Mendum*a,  next  to  Expreia  olBce,  Wall  atreet 

The  andeniKBed  !■  also  Agent  for  MeiiMrfl.  Arthnr  Galnness  «&  Co.'s  Dablia 
Stoat)  MeMra.  Yotongeradb  Hons>  Alloa  Scotch  Ale;  niessrs.  Barclay  9c 
PerkloB*  liOndoa  Porter. 

The  above  may  be  bad  In  hhds.  and  in  coses  of  2  and  G  doz.  pints,  and  4  doz.  qaarts,  from 

ARTHUR  KEBTDALL,  5  Soath  'Wllitam  Street  N.  T. 


Waabington  Reitonrant,  Bowling  Green. 
Brandreth  Houae,  Canal  and  Brradway. 
Auction  Reatoiirhnt,  80  Broadway. 
Miekle  Maher,  Comer  Pina  and  Water  atraata. 
E.  J.  O'Connor'*,  IT  and  18  WaU  atreet 
Gilaey'a  Waverley,  Broadway  and  Fourth  itiae 

And  In  Brooklyn  at 
Thomaa  Dent,  Main  atreet 
McNamae,  No.  M  Main  atreet 

And  at  the  principal  hotel*  acd  reatauranto  in  all  tha 
citie*  of  the  United  SUte*. 


•:'",■•   TT'. 


k 


i 


V 


U 


AFFLSrONB'  HAND-BOOK  ADVERTISER. 


ORQVER    4    BAUR 

SSWIirO    MAGSII^E    CO. 


485  Broadway^  V.  T« 
Ua  dMrtniit  8t»  Fhila. 
57  8t  GharlM  8t,  H.  0. 


18  BamnMir  81,  BofUm, 
840'Br<Md8i,Vewwk» 
87  4th  StrMt,  81  Look 


No*  19«— PvlCflf  #125. 

A  new  tnd  elegmt  Maoblne  for  tunWy 
QM.  When  not  Inue,  it  to  »  beaatiflil 
ptace-offtirnitan. 


No.  ll.-Priee,  fieo. 

The  raoeeee  of  this  Uaehine  mar  be  tt- 
tribnted  to  the  flwt  that  it  ie  adqited  to 
•  greftter  Tariety  of  eloth  work  ttiu  any 
other.  Itisezcelfentlbripintingofankinda, 
for  general  flunily  nae,  and  tailors*  work. 


OR OYER 


REASONS  WHY  THE 

Sc     BAKER 

B  UNimSALLT  rMMfWUMD 


IHACHINE 


Fozi  FA  -h/mrsr  ss'wzxtgI'. 

1st   It  Is  more  simple  and  easily  kept  in  order  than  any  other  maobino. 

Snd.    It  makes  a  seam  wbleh  will  not  rip  or  ravel,  though  every  third  stiteh  is  ont 

8rd.  It  sews  ftom  two  ordinary  qiools,  and  tbns  sll  troalfle  of  winding  thread  to  avoided, 
while  the  same  Machine  can  be  adapted  at  pleasure,  by  a  mere  change  ot  spools,  to  all  varieties 
ofwork. 

4th.    The  ssme  Machine  runs  silk,  linen  thread,  and  common  spool  cotton,  with  equal  htXlUj. 

6th.  The  seam  to  as  elastic  as  the  most  elastio  &bric,  so  that  it  to  free  flrom  all  ItobUity  to  break 
ia  washing,  ironing,  or  otherwise^ 

9th.  The  stitch  made  by  thto  Machine  to  more  beautlM  than  any  other  made^  either  by  hand 
ormachlnck 

PRICES.  FROM  476  TO  $136. 

Tmt  Obovxb  iSD  Bakxr  Suwiiro  MAonnra  Ca  manufiMsture  about  twenty  different  styles 
<tf  Maohine^  making  both  the  Shuttle  Stitch  and  the  Grover  &  Baker  Stitch,  and  adapted  for  all 
manuDuturing  pnrpoee^  and  for  firniUy  vte.  To  merit  a  continuance  of  the  unequalled  pa- 
tronage now  emoyed  bv  the  Grover  &  Baker  Machine,  is  the  honest  ambition  of  the  proprie- 
tors.   An  examination  by  all  is  respectfoUy  solicited. 


^^•i:-'*^^- 


V 


> 


SB. 


E    CO. 

omom. 

mer  fit,  Boiton, 


-Price,  tl20. 

f  this  Machine  mujht  at- 
Awt  that  It  Is  adrated  to 
'  of  doth  work  ttan  sny 
mt  Ibr  qnnttng  of  aQ  ktads, 
"aae,  and  tailors*  work. 


A€HIIV£ 


bine. 

[stitohlsent 
„dlng  thread  is  sTolded, 
^  of  spools,  to  aUvarleUea 

otton,  -with  equal  fadll^ 
» ftom  aU  liability  tobieak 

tier  made,  either  by  hand 

Las. 

ht  twenty  different  styles 
Btltch,  and  adapted  fur  all 
£e  of  the  unequalled  pa* 
lambition  of  the  proprie- 


V 


.■ .».. 


...                     ... 

DATE  DUE 

DATE  DE  RETOUR 

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LOWK-MARTIN 

No.  1137 

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